Gardening

How to Repot Norfolk Island Pine Trees

Do your favorite evergreens look like they’re about to destroy their pots? It’s time repot your Norfolk Island pine trees once they get too big for their containers. In this article, horticulture expert Matt Dursum shows you how to repot your trees in time for the holiday season. Norfolk Island pine trees are popular gifts during the holiday season. They grow well in containers and thrive in pleasant indoor spaces with bright indirect light. As easy as they are to maintain, they’ll outgrow their containers every three or four years. After all, these Araucarias can grow to 200 feet tall! However, don’t let their potential size intimidate you. They are slow growers, and with a little maintenance and repotting, you’ll have vibrant indoor trees for years to come. Keep reading below to learn the best ways to repot your Norfolk Island pine tree. Spring is the perfect time to repot your Norfolk Island pines. During this time, they send nutrients and water toward their apical buds. This active growth phase energizes your evergreen houseplants for the new season. With the extra energy, they’ll handle the stress of replanting. After the shock of repotting, they’ll divert their energy to their roots. Your trees will have the rest of spring and summer to grow their roots in the new soil. The longer days bring more sunshine and energy, making it easier for them to grow. If you repot them in fall or winter, your trees won’t have the nutrients and energy they need to handle the move. Also, the shorter days mean they’ll have less sunlight to draw energy from. Although they’ll probably survive repotting during these seasons, it’ll be harder for them to recover. Norfolk Island pines need a well-draining pot that’s at least one or two inches wider and deeper than their previous container. They flourish in earthenware or even 65-gallon grow bags. Earthenware pots work well because they regulate the temperature of your soil. Your Norfolk Island pines thrive in consistently warm temperatures. Besides the materials and size, the most important thing to look for is good drainage. Although they come from wet environments, they don’t like growing in soggy soil. This can lead to root rot and disease. Choosing the right type of soil is important for growing these sub-tropical evergreens in pots. In their native habitat of Norfolk Island, they grow in volcanic clay soils with high acidity. You can mimic this soil environment at home. Start by blending well-draining grit with sand and compost. Add peat moss for the right texture and porousness. Aim for a soil pH of around 4.5 to 5.5. Test your soil with a home test kit now and then to adjust it as needed to maintain a slightly acidic range. You can lower your soil’s pH by using sulfur or ammonia-containing fertilizers. Lowering your soil’s pH can be trickier than raising it, so keep testing until you get it right. When you’re ready to repot them into larger containers, handle them with care. Their roots are delicate and easy to damage. This is especially true when your plants are young. Even though their roots are delicate, young trees are easier to repot than mature ones. Norfolk Island pines may not be true pines—they’re Araucaria, similar to Chilean Monkey Puzzle trees—but they can still be sharp. Wear sturdy gardening gloves to protect your hands from their leaves and spikes around the trunk. Gloves don’t just protect you from your trees’ spikes. They also help prevent the spread of bacteria and fungus on the plants and your skin. Once you repot your evergreens, make sure they’re getting enough light. These trees need a lot of light to flourish and won’t handle too much shade. Without an abundance of sunlight, your trees may experience leggy growth. Move your containers near a south-facing window if you live in the Northern Hemisphere. Turn your containers every few days to make sure each part of your trees gets enough sunlight. They can handle lower light conditions in winter, but in spring and summer, take advantage of the bright long days to encourage vigorous growth. They will bounce back from the shock of repotting and thrive in their new containers. Give your newly replanted Araucarias a daily mist. This helps replicate their native environment and gives them enough moisture to stay hydrated. These towering giants-turned-houseplants thrive in misty environments with 50% humidity. Misting your plants is an easy way to make the surrounding air more humid. It also keeps the branches moist after transplanting. Dry and brittle branches can easily snap off, leaving the plants susceptible to infection. After misting for one or two months, your trees should be good to go on their own. You can always use a humidifier if the air is continuously dry. Overwatering your newly transplanted Norfolk Island pines can lead to a lot of problems. These evergreens have delicate roots that are susceptible to root rot. Water them consistently, but let the upper layer of soil dry out between watering. Allow the containers to drain completely before giving them another soak. If you notice your tree branches turning brown and brittle, you’ve restricted their water too much. Water them a little more until you see their bright green color return. Healthy foliage should be vibrant and soft. Mature Norfolk Island pines growing outdoors don’t need fertilizer. However, when growing your evergreens indoors, a bit of nutrient-dense plant food helps. After repotting in the spring, try using a weak liquid houseplant fertilizer. This will help the roots grow and form a strong root system. When you see new growth appear in spring, feed your plants some more. Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter when new growth slows down. Over-fertilizing can cause problems with your plants and lead to nutrient buildup in the soil. Because these trees love slightly acidic soil, look for a liquid conifer fertilizer or food with extra sulfur or ammonia. Always follow the directions on your fertilizer packet. Sometimes, the stress of repotting can weaken your evergreen houseplants and their root systems. They may start to lean or, at worst, fall over. When this happens, try sticking a stake in the soil to support them. Wooden or metal stakes work the best. Make sure to disinfect the stakes before sticking them in your soil. Pests can hitch a ride on wood and quickly infect your container’s soil. After disinfecting, carefully slide the stake into the soil away from the root system. Once you’ve staked your soil, use string to wrap around the trunk and the stake. As the roots become stronger and more established, you can remove the stake and let your trees stand on their own. Watch your trees after removing them, in case they need more support. Norfolk Island pines generally have few pests to worry about. However, indoor plants can sometimes experience issues related to overwatering and, occasionally, bug infestations. This can especially be true after repotting. Give your trees a thorough check after you repot them. Look for aphids, spider mites, scale, and mealybugs. If you used soil from the outdoors, there’s a chance of Armillaria fungus infecting the plants. The most common problems to look out for are not pests and diseases, but environmental factors. Repotting changes the soil pH and nutrient composition your trees are used to. Browning or yellowing leaves or dropping branches mean your trees are undergoing stress.

Dwarf Alberta Spruce Trees

Small, compact, and pyramidal, dwarf Alberta spruces add formal structure and bright green foliage to the garden. Plant one as a specimen and watch it grow alone, or situate multiple in a row to create a natural fence. Join former nursery tree grower Jerad Bryant in learning how to grow and care for these miniature spruces. Whether you’re looking for a stately tree to stand alone or a small specimen to plug into empty sites, the dwarf Alberta spruce tree is the one for you. It’ll reach up to 13 feet tall in maturity after growing for over 30 years. It’ll stay a short, shrubby tree, hovering between six and eight feet tall most of its life. You can find these trees as short shrubs in one-gallon containers; plant them, and you’ll enjoy watching them mature for decades. Larger trees are available, too, and they are better for specimen plantings or living fences that call for tall plants. No matter which size you choose, you’ll enjoy watching your tree grow into its home. These spruces form wide bases with lower branches, creating picturesque Christmas tree shapes. Decorate them outdoors for holiday cheer, or consider caring for one in a container and moving it indoors for the holidays. Dwarf Alberta spruce is a cultivar of the white spruce, a large coniferous tree native to large swaths of North America. ‘Conica’ is a variety that J.G. Jack and Alfred Rehder discovered growing in Alberta, Canada in 1904. It’s the original dwarf white spruce, and plant breeders often use it to create new, better-performing cultivars for the landscape. White spruce, Picea laxa, is native to North America from parts of Canada through the northern U.S. It grows where summers are cool and winters are cold in mountainous areas. It dislikes intense heat during the summertime, and it needs frigid frosts during the winter to perform well. ‘Conica’ is a variety of Picea laxa. It originates from Alberta, Canada, although it’ll perform well throughout USDA hardiness zones 3 through 6. If you live in zones 7 or 8, try growing this tree with afternoon shade to protect it from harsh summer heat. It’s marginally hardy in these warm zones. Dwarf Alberta spruces are not only smaller than white spruces, but they also have unique foliage that differs from the species! You’ll see star-like clusters of needles open from buds in early spring. Buds and fresh needles are edible, tasting like citrus, pine, and fresh greens. Chop them in salads, or try brewing tea with the needles. Unlike white spruces that tower over 70 feet tall, dwarf spruce trees rarely reach over 13 feet tall, and they take many years to grow this tall. Give them ample space near their base, as their lower branches grow wide in time. Like white spruces, these dwarves live long lives, often growing for over 50 years in gardens and landscapes. Planting these spruces is an easy task. You’ll prepare a hole, loosen the tree’s roots, and plant it in the hole. Transplanting ‘Conica’ is best during spring or fall, when temperatures are mild and moisture is abundant. These trees are forms of the white spruce, meaning they’re not available as seeds. Find them as cuttings or potted plants online or at a local garden nursery.

Star Fruit Trees

Averrhoa carambola, commonly known as star fruit, is a tropical tree or large shrub with exotic fruit in spring. The fruit is rich in vitamins and minerals, and very low in calories.What is star fruit? You’ve come to the right place. The star fruit is a rich source of vitamin C, B9, B6, B2, and dietary fiber. It also contains various minerals, such as potassium, zinc, phosphorus, and iron. It’s a low-calorie fruit, with only 31 calories per 100 grams. And the star fruit tree is beautiful, too! A mature tree can produce as much as 200 to 400 pounds of fruit every year. The star fruit is pulpy with a grape-like texture. The flavor is described as similar to feijoa, but with hints of banana and pear and the acidity of pineapple. It’s also a widely popular ornamental. With beautiful foliage and lovely clusters of lilac-colored flowers, this tree can enhance the aesthetic appeal of your garden. The flowers also attract bees, so they can entice more pollinators to your yard.The star fruit tree goes by the botanical name Averrhoa carambola. However, the tree and the fruit have many common names in different regions. For example, in Spain and the surrounding areas, the tree is known by the name carambola. In Indonesia, it is called bilimbi, although that name also refers to Averrhoa bilimbi, and thus isn’t used to refer to star fruit often.

Should You Prune Evergreens in December?

Evergreens shine in December, holding down a foundation of foliage amongst their dormant, deciduous neighbors. Some require little to no pruning, but others can use some shaping. Join Melissa Strauss to find out if December is a good time to do that pruning. Heading into winter, the garden becomes a quiet place of repose. Gardeners hang up their tools and get cozy indoors for the festive season. As deciduous trees and shrubs drop their leaves and slow their processes, evergreens become the focal point in winter landscapes. Since this is the period when those plants are most prominent, you may notice them more during this time. It’s natural to want to do a bit of shaping now that your evergreens are in full view. This begs the question, is it a good time to pull your pruning shears back out, or is there a better time to trim? Some evergreens don’t require regular pruning, while others prefer a trim from time to time. If we pay attention to growing cycles, these plants grow at much the same time as their deciduous counterparts. So, should you prune evergreens around the winter holidays or look to other times of year for this undertaking? Evergreen trees and shrubs have relatively low maintenance needs. They tend to grow in an attractive, well-balanced form and do so independently of intervention. If you choose to prune these evergreens, there are good times and times that are less than optimal, in addition to times of year when it can be downright detrimental. The most important period to refrain from using pruners on your evergreens is when they have finished growing for the season and winter is on the horizon. This falls from late summer until mid to late fall. In milder climates, where the weather stays warm longer, this time extends along with that warm weather. Pruning during warm or mild weather causes a flush of new wood in most plants. Trimming the ends of branches encourages them to branch and put out new foliage. This new growth is tender and more susceptible to cold. Softwood is much less cold and hardy than wood, which hardens off over the summer. Since most evergreens grow the majority of their wood in the spring, they take the summer months to harden off. This mature wood lasts through the winter without dying back. If you prune too close to the temperature drop, the new wood produced may not survive the winter and could expose the tree to added stress. It’s best to avoid pruning entirely from late summer onward. The exception is for dead or diseased branches. You should remove damaged wood any time it shows up to avoid spreading the damage to other parts of the plant. There are two periods of the year when pruning is unlikely to result in damage. Though these are not ideal, you won’t end up with a tree covered in dead branch tips that you’ll need to cut back harder after the winter. If you prune evergreens at the end of spring, you miss the ideal period, but it won’t do any damage. You may not see optimal spring growth, but your evergreen still has time to harden up any new wood before winter, and it should survive. In midsummer, when the weather is hottest, most evergreens enter a semi-dormancy, which helps them withstand the intense heat. You can prune during this time, but pay attention to the date. Once you get to late summer, this window closes, and you should hold off for the remainder of the year. This brings us to the month in question, December. December is an in-between month that most consider to be winter, but most of the month is still technically late fall. It’s only after the solstice that we enter into true winter. Depending on your climate, this can be an acceptable time to prune, but it’s still not ideal. In warm climates, like where I live in Zone 9, December is a funny month. It can be warm and balmy, but it can also bring on some cold temperatures. A few years ago, we had an unseasonably cold Christmas week and winter in general. In this case, it would be fine to prune, as the tree would remain dormant. However, if you have a warm December, pruning during this month can cause new wood to grow, followed quickly by the coldest months. This makes it risky as the plant can begin to produce new growth in a short time. Then, when that cold weather does show up, your tree is in for a difficult time. I would say that in December, you should hold off on pruning unless you live in a cold climate. If the tree or shrub remains dormant after trimming, it should be fine. If not, you run into the same issue as happens with fall pruning. The ideal time to prune and shape up most evergreens is in late winter or very early spring. Right before the plant re-enters, its growth season is best. Since pruning encourages growth, trimming just before it begins a growth phase will maximize that new growth. Pruning just before your evergreens begin to grow will leave you with optimal growth. It will create fullness and make your plant look lush and happy. Most of these plants put out only one flush of growth per year in the spring. By pruning just before that period, your plant gets the signal to grow, and it will do precisely that. Most of these shrubs and trees require only minimal shaping, as they grow in a nice form naturally. Let’s discuss the proper way to prune most evergreens in the spring. Different types of plants have different growth habits, and thus, they require a different approach to trimming. Pine, fir, spruce, and hemlock need the least amount of cutting as they naturally grow in an attractive, conical, or pyramidal shape. Avoid cutting their lower branches, as this ruins that pretty shape. Never cut the main leader, as this also destroys the shape of the tree. Clean up any dead or broken branches and those with the appearance of disease or pest damage. Cut away any crossing branches that interfere with airflow to the interior. These are those that cross through the center of the tree from one side to the other. You should also remove branches that cross over their neighbors and wear on others. Select the strongest limb and remove the others that cross over or beneath it. When removing an entire branch, make sure to cut it all the way to the trunk. Using a hand saw can help protect the bark around your cuts. Pine – Allow your pines to form candles. These are small branches that grow upward from the ends of branches. Typically, there is one candle that’s stronger and larger than the others. Trim or snap off all but that strongest candle at about one-third of its length. Spruce and Fir – These produce new growth once per year from terminal buds. Tip the branches back to one of these buds, cutting just to the outside of the bud. Don’t leave stubby growth at the ends of branches. This will produce unattractive branching. Juniper and False Cypress – These don’t need more pruning outside of cleaning them up. Trim off old, damaged, or broken limbs and any that cross over others or through the center. Cutting the ends off of branches on these will reduce the foliage and leave you looking into the center of the plant. Hemlock, Arborvitae, and Yew – These tolerate more pruning, and doing so will keep them more compact and bushy. They grow in spring and summer, so you can trim them any time from early spring to mid-summer. The branches will produce new growth at the ends, which cover over the trimmed ends. While December is not the worst month to prune your evergreens, it’s not the best, either. You’re better off waiting until late winter, just before the new growth phase begins. This will protect the plant from cold and set it on the right path to maximum healthy growth through the following season.

A Guide to Choosing the Best Tree For Your Yard: Factors to Consider

If you’re selecting new trees for your yard this fall, lucky you! You’re adding value and enrichment to the landscape visually, ecologically, and economically. With so many variables in tree form, growing conditions, and features, a few guidelines help winnow down the field. Hone in on the best trees for your yard with gardening expert Katherine Rowe. Trees form the “bones” of the garden. They’re the first considerations to work with when creating a landscape design – starting with the largest, whether new or existing, and working our way down to detailed plantings. Trees impact the arrangement the most in size, light affectations, and framework. As the largest plants in a collection, they carry the most visual weight in addition to their hefty canopies and root systems. Trees offer big rewards ecologically, ornamentally, and even economically. Choosing these landscape anchors is a long-term commitment. With so many variations in form and features, we’ve got a few ways to narrow down the best tree options for your yard. The main factor in selecting trees is ensuring enough room for their mature growth. Planning for maturity means accounting for limb expanse, height, and root systems. It sounds obvious, but we sometimes overlook or underestimate their full size to meet short-term aesthetics. Ideally, our trees will live a long time and reach their maximum height and spread. We don’t want to squeeze them into a spot now only to remove them down the road. The right situation to accommodate tree size makes all the difference regarding future maintenance. Will limbs encroach on the house, roof, or other structures like power lines? Is there enough room for root development without compromising the foundation, walkways, or tree health? Using size as a parameter helps guide our choices toward tall, mid, or small specimens. While trees benefit from pruning as they age, they won’t need it to regularly manage size with the right tree in the right spot. Trees, whether large or small in stature, have a bearing on the balance of the landscape. As the most sizeable and lasting landscape contributors, they also yield the most structure and visual heft. Among the tallest features of the planting arrangement, their size and form draw the eye. Their visual weight plays into scale and proportion: how we experience a place, its readability, and overall pleasing aesthetic. It’s the essence of curb appeal, where the home blends seamlessly into the landscape through a connected built and natural environment. Proportion is how all of the elements of a space relate to each other in size. Plant material and garden structures should be considered relative to the size of the house and the area to plant. A proportionate garden feels harmonious and balanced. If you’re working with a large site, consider adding bigger trees to punctuate the space with vertical interest. Think of an alle, a bosque, a small grouping, or a single large tree to dominate the space. Intimate spaces allow us to relish the details, where small specimen trees become focal points (taking care not to overcrowd the area). The scale of your house and yard will determine whether to go with a single tree, a grouping of understory trees like dogwoods, or rows to line your drive. Your selection goes back to the home’s guiding proportions. Opt for small to mid-sized, multi-trunk specimens like Japanese maple, sweet bay magnolia, or serviceberry to anchor foundation plantings for scaled variation near the house. Give plenty of space between the home and the tree (six feet or so, depending on the variety). To choose the best trees for your yard, consider their roles. Maybe you’re looking for shade, fall color, flowers, a focal point, or all of the above. Deciduous trees offer leafy canopies that provide cooling shade in summer. They help reduce air conditioning usage (and costs) in summer. In winter, they allow the warming sun to shine through bare branches and warm the home or patio. Evergreens provide year-round privacy, screening, and windbreaks. Fruit and nut producers enhance the edible landscape and provide forage for birds and wildlife. Flowering and fragrant selections bring color and heighten seasonal interest. Shade trees and evergreens have dramatically different forms, both equally valuable. Trees become architecture in the landscape, from vase-shaped to multitrunked to pyramidal. If you’d like to screen a view or block an unsightly feature, a dense evergreen may be the choice. Sturdy evergreens also help block winds throughout the year, whether as singular large specimens or a series of conifers. Shade trees offer broad coverage to shade a patio, frame the front of the house, or cool the streetscape. Multiseason interest is a fun one to plan for as you install new selections. We know trees shine in spring and summer, and choosing for fall and winter characteristics adds lasting interest. Deciduous species delight with leaf shapes and colors that transition to autumnal tones. Their bare trunks, branches, buds, and seeds add winter interest. Shapely conifers do the heavy lifting in cold weather with structural branching, dynamic foliage, cones, and berries. Factoring in a species’ natural attributes helps gauge placement and maintenance, too. Nut producers like hickories, buckeyes, and walnuts are best away from active zones like play areas, walkways, and driveways to avoid those heavy massing (and dropping) seasons. Fruit-bearers are beautiful and functional additions. If you live in a wildlife-prone area, they may require an early harvest to avoid overripe attractants (or leave enough to share). Some fruits, like pears and apples, benefit from regular pruning for best shape and vigor. Deciduous species drop their leaves in autumn’s cool temperatures, leading to an excellent source of soil nutrition through leaf mulch and mold. Removing thick layers from turf and putting them to good use in garden beds is a beneficial fall task. While trees produce shade, their scale also affects the way light moves through a site. This benefit of casting a shadow alters the light beneath them and the amount of light nearby plants receive. Observe how light moves through your yard and take this into account when planning future beds. Existing plants may adapt to partial shade or may need transplanting as a new tree grows and creates shadier conditions. Matching the tree to the site is essential in setting up a healthy foundation. Make sure the selection is hardy in your USDA growing zone. Take lighting observations into account to know whether the site is full sun or partially shaded by structures or other trees, and match the tree to the exposure. New trees need water as they establish. Once they have a robust root system, they’re usually self-sufficient. There are water lovers (like willow, cypress, or tupelo) for moist zones, and many drought-tolerant species (mesquite, cedar, juniper) well-suited to areas without supplemental irrigation. Like all plants, the leafy growers have different soil preferences, many thriving in organically rich, humusy loams while others prefer sand and even tolerate clay. Knowing your soil type with a soil test helps determine any amendment needs. Fall is ideal for amending soils before the spring growing season. Native species are well-adapted to their local growing environment, including soil types and climate. They flourish in localized average conditions without a lot of extra resources (water, fertilizer). They grow in partnership with surrounding plant communities and provide wildlife and pollinator resources.

Star Fruit Trees

Pawpaw Trees

Are you curious about these small native trees and their sweet, custardy fruits? If you’ve never seen or tasted a pawpaw, you’re in for a treat. In this article, native plant expert Liessa Bowen introduces the pawpaw tree and all the basics you’ll need to know so you can grow your own! I have to admit, I’ve been a huge fan of pawpaw trees since I was a little kid. It may have started with a song about “Little Suzie” who went “Way down yonder in the pawpaw patch” to pick a bunch of pawpaws and put them in her pocket. I always imagined she had really big pockets that were loaded down with wild fruits. When I saw my first pawpaw tree growing in the wild, I’m sure I went wild with glee to finally taste these delicious fruits for myself. Pawpaws (Asimina triloba) are native to the central and eastern United States and provide great value to the home landscape. In their native habitat, you’ll see them in moist woodlands and woodland edges. As a landscaping plant, they are a welcome addition to an edible landscape, wildlife-friendly habitat, or native garden. Growing a pawpaw tree successfully starts with a favorable habitat with moist soil and a bit of sunlight. These trees may require a bit of pampering to get them securely settled in a new home. Once established, however, you’ll find pawpaw trees to be hardy and easy to grow. As a small tree, pawpaws are versatile. These low-maintenance trees provide edible fruits, ornamental foliage, unusual flowers, and plenty of year-round interest. You won’t get fruits with a single tree, so if you’re considering growing pawpaws for their fruits, you’ll need to plant at least two. Now let’s dig in to some details and you’ll soon be ready to plant and grow your own grove of pawpaw trees. Pawpaw trees are native to North America. Their range includes southeastern Canada, south to Florida, and west to Texas. These trees typically grow in moist, deciduous forests, along streams, and near wetlands where they get plenty of regular soil moisture and also plenty of shade. As long as there have been people in the Americas, people have been eating pawpaws. These trees produce an abundance of sweet fruits that are edible raw, making them easily accessible to anyone to simply harvest and eat. As plant growers became interested in these native fruits, they started breeding them to form a number of cultivars, some of which are available commercially. The common pawpaw is a deciduous, fruit-bearing tree that grows 15 – 30 feet tall. These trees develop a single main trunk with smooth, gray bark. They are sparsely branched and develop a pyramidal form with lower branches tending to be longer and more pendulous than upper branches. Pawpaw leaves are uniformly bright green with smooth edges. They are oblong and narrower at the base closest to the stem and broadest at the pointed tip. The leaves hang gently downwards for a slightly floppy appearance. In the fall, these leaves turn attractive shades of yellow and orange before dropping for the winter. They bloom in the spring. Their flowers are a bit unusual. Each flower measures one to three inches across and has six distinct yet overlapping brownish-maroon petals. The three outer petals are larger and form an overall triangular shape with the three smaller petals forming a central, smaller triangular shape. Each flower has both male and female parts but they are not self-fertile. You’ll need at least two different pawpaw trees for cross-pollination and fruit production. The fruits ripen in mid to late summer in the south and late summer to early fall in more northern climates. Pawpaw fruits can be up to six inches long and look somewhat like an oblong pear. Their smooth skins ripen from green to yellowish-green, sometimes with harmless brown spots appearing on ripe fruits. The skin is soft and easily bruised. Ripe fruits have a tender yellowish inner flesh. They have a sweet flavor often described as a cross between a banana and a mango. The texture is smooth and custardy rather than crispy or crunchy. Each mango fruit typically contains several large, smooth, flat, black seeds. The pulpy part of the fruit is fully edible when ripe. The skin and seeds are not edible. These trees don’t produce fruits right away. They generally need to be around seven years old before they start to flower and form fruits, although the age of first fruiting will vary depending on the general health of the tree and its growing conditions. Pawpaws are not self-fertile and a single tree will bloom but not bear fruits. You’ll need at least two separate trees to produce fruits. Since natural pawpaw pollinators are not particularly dependable, you can help your plants along by doing some hand pollination. When both trees are blooming in the spring, simply use a soft paintbrush to gather pollen from one tree and share it with the flowers of the other tree, and vice versa. Fruits start to form immediately after flowering. In the beginning, they are small, oblong, firm, and green. The fruits ripen anywhere from August to October, depending on local climate conditions. Once they start to ripen, all the fruits on the tree will be fully ripe within a short two-week period. Harvest them when they become slightly soft and yellow. Ripe fruits will release easily from their stems. Pawpaw fruits are best eaten fresh. They will last for a few days at room temperature or for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator. The soft inner flesh is edible. The large black seeds and skin are not edible. Many people like to cut a pawpaw in half and use a spoon to scoop out the flesh, separating it from the skin. Pawpaws naturally reproduce by seed and by developing colonies from root suckers. New plants that develop from root suckers are genetically identical to the parent plant while plants grown from seed will be genetically unique individuals and therefore able to cross-pollinate and produce. You can sow fresh pawpaw seeds in moist soil in your yard and hope they germinate the following spring, or you can try sprouting the seeds in pots and have a bit more control over their environment. Want to try growing your own pawpaw tree from seed? The process is simple but requires patience. Pawpaw seeds need cold, moist stratification for 70-100 days, followed by a long germination period. Harvest fresh seeds from a mature pawpaw fruit and wash them off to remove the skin-like membrane surrounding each seed. Place the freshly washed seeds on a moist paper towel, wrap them up in the moist towel, and place the moistened seed packet in a plastic bag. Cold stratify this packet in the refrigerator until February or March. Don’t let the seeds dry out after harvesting or they quickly lose viability. After this period of cold stratification, place the seeds in individual pots filled with moist potting soil. The pots should be tall enough to accommodate a long taproot and they should have good drainage. Seeds should be planted one inch deep and kept moist at around 60-70°F (16-21°C). Keep the seeds warm and moist until they germinate, which could be anywhere from three weeks to three months. Don’t give up if they don’t germinate right away, they are very slow to get started. Even after germination, you’ll need to continue being patient. Trees started from seed won’t begin to bear fruit until they are seven or eight years old.

5 Reasons You Should Never Prune Your Trees in Fall

I bet you’re working on your fall to-do list, and I’m right there with you. But pruning your trees is something you should leave off that list until late winter. Join organic farmer Jenna Rich as she discusses five reasons you should never prune your trees in the fall. Fall is a time for gardeners to clean up their garden beds, sharpen and clean tools, organize sheds and greenhouses, and tidy up so they’re ready for spring chores. It might seem like a great time to prune your trees to get that off your to-do list, but doing so may undo much of the hard work you’ve done leading up to the fall to ensure your trees stay healthy and strong. When adding trees to your lineup, ensure they are compatible with your growing zone. Doing so will set them up for success and make caring for them more enjoyable. A tree out of its element and experiencing high stress levels won’t thrive, so checking that your region aligns with its needs will yield the best results. If you’re like me, your fall and winter checklists are in full effect. When all the items are checked off, I have peace of mind, which allows me to enjoy my winters and feel prepared for spring. Let’s discuss five reasons you should never prune your trees in the fall. Your Tree is Busy Preparing For Winter Humans greatly enjoy watching the transition of summer greens to autumnal oranges, yellows, and reds, so it’s hard for us to understand just how hard the trees are working internally. It’s a significant endeavor that takes lots of energy. Think of everything you do around your home and property as the seasons change to refresh, prepare, and unload for the upcoming season. Trees and perennial plants are doing something similar internally in preparation for the change of seasons. Imagine someone asking you to give a speech just as you fall asleep for the night. It probably wouldn’t be great, right? As their colors change and leaves drop, the trees’ energy shifts into their own fall chores, including sugar concentration, intentional dehydration, and cellular shrinkage. As they adjust to shorter days, colder temperatures, and less water, they slow their processes down to prepare for dormancy. Concentrated sugars serve as a natural anti-freeze, which helps them tolerate freezing temperatures, reduces the risk of them exploding from being too cold, and provides energy in the winter months. Cells shrink and harden, preventing damage from freezing temperatures and harsh winds. Surviving the winter in some regions is an impressive feat, so it takes a lot of preparation. Note that some species produce buds in the summer months that will overwinter just fine. Pruning too early may remove these, giving you a less-than-spectacular show in the spring. They Need To Focus Energy on Their Roots We often discuss the need for a robust root system, which anchors plants to the ground, helps prevent topsoil and nutrient loss, and ensures proper growth and immunity response. When we prune during the fall transition period, we force energy into the wounded areas rather than allowing the tree to focus on its root system. This can be detrimental to the tree’s health and longevity. Instead, take advantage of the cooler working temperatures. Soil temps will remain warm, encouraging roots to expand and stretch deeper into the soil, well out of eyes’ reach. Once trees lose their leaves, they can hone in on underground activity. When they wake in the spring, deep, strong roots mean a healthy start to the season! Damage From Fresh Wounds Imagine having a large, fresh cut on your arm and heading outside into the wind and cold weather without any covering. You can imagine the pain you might feel when the air hits the open wound. Trees may not “feel” the same way we do, but wounds, even from necessary pruning, are still wounds and should be treated as such. Remember also that several types of beetles are still active in the fall, and wounds may exacerbate their damage. The best time to prune is during dormancy when less activity is happening inside the tree, and the risk of disease spread is significantly reduced. Winter pruning encourages new spring growth. Wounds made over winter will heal more quickly during the spring months. Note: Spring flowering plants like azaleas should not be pruned until after they flower. Pruning in the winter removes fresh buds, so you’ll be without spring blooms. While it was once commonplace to see tree wounds closed up with white paint, updated research tells us to leave them be and let them complete their natural immunity response for best results. According to the University of Illinois Extension, trees will respond to a wound with wound tissue, which will seal the pruning cut. Sealing it up with paint is detrimental since oxygen is required for this process to occur. Healthy specimens are more likely to ward off future attacks, so it’s our job to keep them as healthy as possible. Wet Conditions Promote Disease Spread Many fungal and bacterial pathogens thrive in fall’s wet, cool conditions. In many regions, fall brings cool, damp weather, wreaking havoc on freshly pruned trees and shrubs. These pathogens can easily creep into the open wounds when humidity levels are high. Oak wilt, Nectria canker, Dutch elm disease, bacterial canker, fire blight, apple scab, peach scab, and blossom wilt are just a few diseases to watch out for in the fall. Proper pruning, copper sprays, and immediate removal of infected tree parts work to control some of these, but oak wilt and bacterial canker have no known proven home gardener treatments. Trust your sources when bringing new trees to your property. Select disease-resistant varieties and grafts when available. Contact your local experts if you’re unsure what’s happening with your orchard. Swift action is always best! Keep your eyes peeled for elm leaf beetles (Xanthogaleruca luteola). These pests chew holes in leaves and may hibernate in the surrounding areas, ready to cause more trouble in future years. Unfortunately, this pest has few natural enemies, so prevention or chemical control are the only options. You Don’t Want To Encourage New Growth Before Winter New growth is green and vulnerable. Promoting new growth before winter exposes it to extreme conditions it’s not ready for. As mentioned, fall offers the perfect conditions for plants to focus on their root system. Leaving them be for a few months allows them to do naturally what they know to do. Let the tree close up shop for the year (and you do the same) and encourage new spring growth during winter pruning sessions. Waiting until the trees are bare of leaves allows you to see the shape more clearly and create an efficient pruning plan. You can see overlapping and twisted branches, growth outside the desired canopy shape, and dead or diseased limbs. Exceptions To The Rule Light pruning may be recommended if your tree shows signs of disease or has lower branches near or touching the ground. Contact a local arborist or tree specialist at your local extension office for necessary assistance. A Note About Conifers Spruce and pines retain their needles all year and don’t enter full dormancy like deciduous species. Pine needles retain more moisture and allow them to convert sunlight into chlorophyll all year, which is why they are sometimes called evergreens. While they don’t entirely go dormant, their bark and branches offer insulation and protection from the cold, so they should be pruned in spring like deciduous trees for best results. What To Do In The Fall Instead Clean up garden debris Determine your mulching plan Amend your soil so it’s ready for spring Cover crop to suppress weeds and reduce soil erosion Be patient until your trees are in dormancy to perform pruning Are you stuck on which trees to choose? Consider low-maintenance trees like winterberry holly, witch hazel, and serviceberry, which will still provide shade, beauty, pollinator attraction, and height.

How to Stake A Tree in 5 Easy Steps

Windy weather and harsh rains threaten weak trees! Their young, thin trunks bend under the pressure. Some saplings need the pressure to grow strong, while others require staking to reach tall and wide. Learn when and how to stake your trees alongside seasoned landscaper Jerad Bryant. Not all trees need staking, but some do. Stakes allow young saplings to grow strong and thick if they struggle to stand straight. Most trees are fine, as they correct bends in their trunk when they mature and grow thicker. Others aren’t as lucky and require some extra help before they mature. You’ll want to stake these three types of woody plants: young saplings, new transplants, and weak trees. They benefit from some stabilization early in life. After a season or two of staking, their trunks will be thick and sturdy enough to handle wind, ice, and excessive rain. These staking steps guide you through the process whether you have a new transplant or an established specimen. Sideways saplings will be towering, straight trees after a season or two of support. Follow along to get your species looking tall, sturdy, and vigorous! Does Your Tree Need Staking? Not all trees need staking! They develop stronger trunks if they don’t receive support when young. The natural sway and shifting that occurs in windy conditions causes the plant to release chemicals called cytokinins. These chemicals cause the trunk’s cells to expand and grow thicker, creating strong and woody plant tissues. Staking won’t hurt your specimen, though, as most trees recover after a few seasons of rapid growth. Stake yours if it is growing in an intensely windy location, if the trunk is too weak to stand without support, or if the topmost branches are larger than the bottom half of the tree. Young Sapling Perhaps you grew a cherry tree from a seed, or there’s a young specimen in your yard from last year’s planting. Young saplings generally don’t require staking, unless they’re weak or have a lopsided structure. Bendy trees are okay, so long as they straighten after the wind subsides. If your saplings bend and stay bent, they’ll need stakes for extra support until they can handle their weight. Tying them to stakes while they’re young allows them to grow straight before they start thickening their trunks. New Transplant The best time to stake a tree is when you transplant it—you’ll already be digging a hole where you can drill in the supporting poles. Some transplants won’t need staking, while others will. If your transplant bends over in the wind or has a small root ball that pulls out of the hole, you’ll want to tie down your tree. The process for staking new transplants differs from staking ones with roots in the ground. Fear not, as we’ll cover what to do in both situations. Weak Tree Older specimens sometimes need support if their tops grow heavier than their trunks can manage. Help them grow straight, and they’ll stay robust without aid for decades to come. Trees that recently lost some of their roots from digging or animal activity are also good candidates for stakes while they recover. The rule of thumb is this: if the tree bends but rights itself without help, it doesn’t need staking. It needs stakes if it falls over, grows sideways, or leans excessively. Step 1: Bury Two Sturdy Stakes The first step involves planting stakes in the ground that act as sturdy anchoring bases. They create two more reinforcing structures for the sapling so that it stays straight despite stormy conditions. How you bury the stakes depends on what type of tree you have. When transplanting woody shrubs or trees that require reinforcement, you’ll want to bury the stakes into opposite ends of the hole near the root ball. Drill two wooden or metal stakes so that they oppose each other with the tree in the middle. Arrange them so that the strongest winds flow through the space between them. Existing trees are much easier to help. Simply bury or drill two stakes on opposite ends of the tree. Like with new transplants, arrange them so that the strongest winds flow through the space between them. Use stakes the right size for your trees—they should be a little taller than where the topmost shoots branch off the main trunk. Step 2: Determine The Support Point The support point is where the ties attach to the tree. It’s where tying cables to your plant will best help it stay straight. Find it with this simple trick: Start three feet above the ground, putting two fingers behind the trunk to raise it. Keep raising your fingers higher until they fully support the tree. Mark the spot on the trunk. The support point is six inches above this mark. This point is generally low on young saplings and taller for existing specimens. It’s crucial to tie cables to the support point and not lower or higher on the trunk. A high placement leads to wood snapping, and a low placement doesn’t keep the canopy upright. Follow this trick to find where to tie cables, no matter how old or young the plant is. Step 3: Tie Tree To Stakes What type of ties you use greatly impacts how well they work. Wires or soft-coated wires never work, as they eventually girdle trunks after digging into their wood. Use fabric, canvas, or rubber collars that are sturdy but giving. With some flexibility, your specimen can wave in the wind while benefitting from additional structure. Easily tie up your tree once you have stakes in the soil. Attach one end of the tie to the metal or wooden stake and the other to the tree’s support point. Stagger the second tie below or above this one on the trunk, and tie its other end to the second stake. You’ll want the ties to be tight with some leeway. Create enough slack on each tie for the trunk to move two inches in any direction. This extra room is crucial for strong trunk development—it partially triggers the release of cytokinins that thicken and reinforce the wood. Step 4: Remove Stakes and Ties Six months to a year later it’ll be time to remove those stakes! The supports are temporary aids that boost the tree to grow well on its own. Leave them too long and they’ll start to hinder growth rather than support it. So, how do you know when to remove them? Trees are ready to live without stakes when they survive wind, rain, or snow without gaining a permanent bend. If you remove the ties and notice your tree still leans, refasten them and check on the sapling in a month or two. Stakes are ready to remove when the tree doesn’t bend or lean on its own and the roots seem to have a strong base. Push the tree a bit to see how it reacts, and make your best judgment call based on how it moves. After six months the support point may have shifted—you can use the test with two fingers to redetermine where it is. Step 5: Repeat for Weak Trees Sometimes, woody species struggle to establish themselves in harsh conditions. Or, extreme storms damage them so they need fastening again. Whatever the reason is for a weak tree, there’s no harm in refastening stakes and ties to help it another time. Repeat this staking process as often as necessary until the saplings grow up and out without help. Some species sprout weak, quick-growing wood, while others are hardier but slower-growing. Adjust your staking period to match the trees’ needs and they’ll thank you with sturdy growth! Follow up with yearly additions of compost on top of the soil, and prune dead or diseased wood. Your trees will grow happy, healthy, and sturdy as they structure themselves in their best shapes. You’ll marvel at the old specimens and remember how they were once weak, young saplings that needed your help.

Trees that Feed Wildlife in the Fall and Winter

When winter rolls around and leaves are long gone from the trees, many wildlife have difficulty finding enough food. Fortunately, many trees continue to feed birds and mammals throughout the winter. In this article, gardener Briana Yablonski shares multiple types of trees you can plant to support wildlife. American Persimmon Often found in mixed hardwood plantings, neighborhoods, and parks, the American persimmon is the native cousin of the frequently cultivated Asian persimmon. The fruits of the American species are much smaller than those produced by the Asian cultivars, but they have a similar flavor and texture. When the fruits are unripe, they have an unpleasant, astringent flavor. When they ripen, they drop from the tree and cover the ground with a layer of sugary goo. Critters of all kinds enjoy the sweet flesh in the late fall and winter. They can grow up to eighty feet, but they have a slow growth rate. You can identify the persimmons by their blocky gray bark. American Crabapple While crabapples are often the last choice when humans are choosing apples to eat, turkeys, raccoons, deer, and other critters love munching on the small, tart fruits. The apples mature in the fall, but ripe fruits often remain on the ground throughout the winter. The crabapple tree’s small size makes it an excellent choice for yards and areas with limited space. Since they grow in an attractive upright form and have beautiful springtime flowers, they fit in well with residential landscaping while also benefiting wildlife. However, you should be aware the fruits often fall from them and can make a mess if left uneaten. White Oak As ecologist and entomologist Doug Tallamy points out, oaks are crucial for supporting insects and, therefore, birds. That’s because they serve as host plants for more than 500 species of moths and butterflies during the growing season. White oaks continue to feed wildlife in the fall thanks to their calorie-rich acorns. Around 150 species of animals consume the nuts, including raccoons, nuthatches, deer, bluejays, and foxes. These critters will eat many types of acorns, but nuts from white oaks tend to be some of their favorites. Since this species is native to much of the eastern US, it’s a great choice in this region. They can grow well in various habitats as long as the soil is well-draining. Just be aware that they are slow-growing, like most oaks. Fireberry Hawthorn This hawthorn species grows in much of North America, including the Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and Rocky Mountain West. The plants grow as large shrubs or small trees in open clearings, forest edges, and other environments. These are members of the rose family and produce small fruits known as haws. The haws of fireberry hawthorn are bright red when ripe and appear in clusters. The fruit typically ripens in the beginning to middle of fall and feeds wildlife including birds and small mammals. Pin Oak If you want to enjoy the benefits of oaks but want a smaller plant than a white or red oak, the pin oak is one good option. These still produce an upright shape, but they typically max out at around 70 feet tall. The plants have a unique branching pattern that many people find beautiful. They grow best in moist yet well-draining soil but can adapt to dry locations. Pin oaks are popular choices for landscape plantings due to their tolerance of transplanting and relatively quick growth rate. The trees grow about two feet per year, making them one of the fastest-growing oak species. Plus, they’re native to much of the eastern United States. Along with supporting many species of caterpillars, pin oaks also produce acorns that birds and mammals love. Animals often stockpile the nuts and continue to feed on them throughout the winter. Just be aware that pin oaks won’t produce acorns until they’re at least 15 years old. River Birch Many gardeners know the river birch for its beautiful peeling bark and slender branches covered with green leaves. It’s known as the only birch species that grows well in low-lying elevations in southern states. However, I’ve found that fewer plant lovers are aware of the tree’s ability to provide for wildlife. They provide year-round cover for wildlife, especially birds that frequent the lakes and rivers these trees often grow beside. The small seeds that appear on the tree’s female catkins also provide food for birds including grouse, sparrows, and chickadees. Songbirds and small mammals often eat the seedless male catkins in the winter. If you want to plant a river birch, note that they prefer moist soil. Although they can tolerate some heat, they typically don’t fare well in hot, dry conditions. However, the cultivar ‘Dura Heat’ was bred to better resist heat and drought. American Holly Although you may think of holly as a small to medium shrub, American holly plants can grow into large specimens. The plants have smooth, gray bark and thick, evergreen leaves with spiked tips. The trees produce red berries in the fall. Since the berries don’t fall from them once they’re ripe, they remain on the plants into the winter. Birds including cedar waxwings, American robins, and quail eat the berries. However, humans should avoid consuming the toxic fruits. American holly can grow in pretty much any type of light, but they often remain smaller when grown in full shade. Trees that receive more light will also produce more berries. The plants are native to much of the eastern central United States, so they’re natural choices for these areas. Black Cherry There are many different types of cherry trees native to the United States, and all of them provide small fruits that appeal to wildlife, ranging from songbirds to bears. The black cherry is native to much of the eastern half of the United States as well as portions of the southwest. It’s the largest native cherry, so it produces more fruit than smaller cherry species. In the spring, they produce elongated clusters of small white flowers. The flowers give way to small red fruits that turn black by late summer or early fall. They often remain around throughout the fall. Not only do black cherry trees provide fruits in the colder months, but their foliage also supports hundreds of insects that feed birds. Mammals also browse on tender twigs and stems. Scarlet Hawthorn If you want a smaller tree that produces fruits in the fall, scarlet hawthorn is one good option. They only grow up to 25 feet tall and work well in small yards and residential areas. However, be aware that the stems sport long thorns, and the springtime flowers have an unpleasant fragrance. Scarlet hawthorn is native to much of the eastern US, where it grows in numerous types of well-draining soil. They produce small fruits that ripen to deep red in the early fall. The fruits remain on the trees into the early winter and are consumed by birds. Eastern Red Cedar When you think of cedar trees, their scale-like evergreen foliage probably comes to mind. However, the plants also produce small blue structures known as juniper berries. These aren’t true berries but rather female cones. Both birds and mammals feed on the cones throughout the fall and winter. Eastern red cedar grow best in full sun, so it’s best to plant them in an open area rather than near other trees. They can tolerate a variety of soil types but don’t grow well in constantly moist soil. Smooth Sumac Although some people consider it a weedy tree, smooth sumac plays an important role in the ecosystem. It thrives in disturbed areas and poor soils where other trees and shrubs struggle, making it an important part of erosion control. Since the trees grow from suckers, they can form large colonies and survive drought, fire, and other environmental challenges. Smooth sumac grows as a small tree or large shrub with compound leaves containing large, slender leaflets. In the fall, the leaves turn bright crimson. Flower clusters appear on the tops of the trees in the summer and turn to conical clusters of red rupes in the fall. The fruit clusters remain on the plants throughout the fall and into the winter. Grouse, squirrels, chickadees, rabbis, quail, nuthatches, and other critters eat the fruits.

Jackfruit

Thinking of planting some jackfruit trees in your backyard, or somewhere in your home garden, but aren't sure where to start? Jackfruit can be a unique tree to grow, but they do best in certain hardiness zones, and perform well with certain soil types. Find out how to plant, grow, and care for Jackfruit in your backyard or home garden.Ever wonder what that giant melon-sized oblong fruit is when you pass by a local Asian produce section? That’s jackfruit. This spiny behemoth fruit is native to tropical parts of Southeast Asia. It’s susceptible to frost, can’t survive in drought, and only grows in humid tropical areas. Jackfruit is one of the most well-known fruit trees globally because it bears the most prominent and heaviest edible fruit that can weigh up to 50 kg. Aside from food, businesses can use the leaves, trunk, roots, and fruits commercially. Growing jackfruit is not tricky, but you need fresh seeds to get started. If you have ample space in your yard, you can grow this fruit crop quickly and reap its many benefits. Here’s everything you need to know about planting, growing, and caring for a jackfruit tree.Jackfruit also has outstanding nutritional value, and it doesn’t have any cholesterol or saturated fat. Jackfruit has more than enough fiber, potassium, and low calorie and sodium count for a healthy diet. Additionally, the fruit has vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A and C, copper, and magnesium. The fruit has been propagated traditionally from seeds. There are many variations in its shape, size, fruiting season, and quality.Many cultivars and species of jackfruit are available across Asia, Africa, United States, and the Pacific. Since jackfruit is relatively new to the United States market, the optimal cultivars are still unknown for this region. In general, this fruit is available in two types: NangkaBelulang (firm) or NangkaBubur (soft), and it has several varieties, including: Black Gold – This cultivar is vigorous, having a dense canopy. It produces medium-sized fruits, weighing 6.7 kg on average. Golden Nugget – This variety is fast-growing, having unique dark green leaves and a dense canopy. It produces small-sized and rounded fruits that weigh around 3.2 kg on average. Golden Pillow – Its high quality and distinctive beauty characterize this variety. This small tree is highly manageable, and it produces small-sized fruits weighing 3.6-5.5 kg on average. Cochin – This variety is relatively tiny, forming an upright and sparse canopy. It produces small-sized fruits that are smoother than the other varieties. Dang Rasimi – This cultivar is open and fast-growing, and it needs annual pruning to maintain its height and spread. This tree is highly productive, bearing uniformly shaped fruits that come in varying colors from pale yellow to bright green. The Dang Rasimi needs more maintenance than other varieties of jackfruit. NS1 – This medium-sized tree has a dense and upright canopy. It produces dark green blocky fruits weighing around 4.2 kg. This cultivar also requires moderate yearly pruning. In the United States, the recommended varieties include the Golden Nugget, Black Gold, Dang Rasimi, and NS1. Developers came up with most of these cultivars in Malaysia or Australia. Generally, the outer skin of the jackfruit is composed of conical and hexagonal apices that turn from greenish to brownish-yellow when it matures. The pulp color also ranges from amber to orange to dark yellow. Each fruit contains 100 to 500 seeds with varying sizes from ¾ to 1.5 inches in diameter. You can cook and eat the seeds. Jackfruit seeds taste a little bit like chestnuts. When the tree or fruit is damaged, it produces a sticky, rubbery white latex, which you can use as paste or glue in various applications.

Which Trees Have The Best Fall Leaves?

If you’ve noticed gorgeous fall foliage lately and want to bring some to your landscape, we have just the thing. Here are 15 trees with the most spectacular fall foliage around. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss in learning more about these trees that flaunt such vivid autumn leaves! The autumn landscape can be a most breathtaking scene to behold. Trees change their leaves to shades of crimson, mahogany, bronze, and gold, rolling over hillsides and lighting up the sky. Paired with the cooling temperatures and holiday anticipation, it’s truly an enchanting time to be outdoors enjoying nature. When it comes to fall color, not all trees are equal. Scientific reactions are responsible for those vivid hues. As the equinox passes and we see fewer daylight hours, the decrease in daylight means less photosynthesis. The decrease in photosynthesis means that the tree produces less chlorophyll. When you see those brilliant shades of yellow and orange, you see the color of the leaves without chlorophyll. Some leaves are brighter underneath than others, which simply turn brown. Shades of red and violet appear because of the presence of anthocyanins, which develop when sugars get trapped in the leaves. Maples, oaks, and dogwood trees are likely to produce these colors. Science aside, autumn leaves are one of my favorite things about the season. Not only are they beautiful to behold, but they are also a harbinger of celebratory times ahead. Here are 15 of my favorite fall trees with the best leaves. American Beech American beech is a slow grower with smooth, gray bark and a full, dense canopy. The leaves are simple, heavily veined, and slightly toothy. In spring and summer, they are a gorgeous blue-green shade. When autumn starts to creep in, those leaves change to brilliant bronze and gold. These trees need at least partial exposure and grow quite large over time. They need moist, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic and rich in nutrients. After the first few years, they need little pruning or maintenance and provide a lot of interest in the landscape. Black Tupelo Famed for the honey produced from its nectar, the Black Tupelo is an easy-going tree with reliably wonderful autumn colors. Its flowers are inconspicuous but are a great food source for bees. In addition to its fall leaves, it has interesting, scaly bark that adds interest in winter. The foliage lights up in shades of red, orange, yellow, and purple, with small bluish-black berries that attract birds. It has an oval growth habit and matures to between 30 ‘and 70’ tall. It’s not picky about exposure or soil as long as it doesn’t have wet feet. Ginkgo Ginkgos are amazingly long-lived and fascinating trees. The oldest specimen in the world is more than 3,000 years old! These truly get better and more beautiful with age. They have beautiful and unique fan-shaped foliage that is a lovely bluish-green in summer. For as lovely as they are throughout the year, ginkgos are a glorious golden spectacle in fall. Plant your ginkgo in a place where it gets a lot of light. They are drought tolerant and prefer sandy, well-drained soil. Make sure to loosen up and amend your soil if it is clay-heavy or compacts easily. They can live in Zones 3-9 but thrive best in more of a mid-range. Too much heat will decrease a ginkgo’s drought tolerance. Serviceberry Serviceberry is a member of the rose family and a more compact tree. At a mature height of 15 to 30 feet, it fits well in more modest spaces, and you can plant it closer to the house without fear of root damage. First, this tree is known for its spectacular spring floral display. When it blooms, it looks like a fluffy white cloud. As the days get shorter, serviceberry’s foliage changes to glowing red, gold, and orange embers. It glows in any garden space. In its first year, remember to keep the soil moist. Giving your serviceberry a layer of mulch around the base will help retain moisture in the soil. Trees that get more moisture produce more and better-quality, edible berries. Sugar Maple You’ll find sugar maple on any list of this kind. It’s simply one of the most flamboyant and reliable sources of autumn foliage around. Its attractive rounded crown makes it an ideal shade tree, and the vermilion, orange, and yellow foliage stands out in fall. Maple trees are generally well-loved for this reason. Sugar maple has the highest concentration of sugar of any species, which adds a lot of red tones. Sugar maples like well-drained, acidic soil, but they prefer it not to be too wet or dry. Give your sugar maple space from footpaths or driveways. Their roots are a bit sensitive. Sassafrass Sassafrass is a North American native with a rich history of use among Indigenous people. Female trees produce pretty yellow flowers in the spring, and the resulting berries feed birds and other wildlife. The plant also plays host to the spicebush swallowtail butterfly. The foliage is an interesting part of sassafras. The leaves aren’t all the same shape—some are ovoid—but the ends of branches hold interesting, tri-lobed leaves. When young, they have a citrus aroma. In autumn, they change to shades of orange, yellow, and red, sometimes even a deep burgundy. Eastern Redbud This member of the legume family is a double threat, with stunning spring flowers and incredible autumn foliage. It’s a compact tree with peeling bark that also provides winter interest. The heart-shaped leaves change from bright green to various warm colors, and the ‘Heart of Gold’ cultivar turns bright yellow. Full sun exposure will make Eastern redbud produce the most flowers. The rounded crown is a product of many horizontally tiered branches. Moist, well-drained soil is ideal, and it needs a winter chill to set buds. Ohio Buckeye Ohio buckeye is another mid-sized tree that blends well in most landscapes. It has a broad crown that is often slightly pointed on top. This is a bloomer, but the flowers are not highly visible among the leaves. They are, however, attractive to pollinators. The resulting fruit is poisonous. The fall color can span the spectrum from red to gold, with orange being the most common. Ohio buckeye makes a lovely shade tree. It prefers well-drained soil and is otherwise unfussy about composition and pH. It likes moderate moisture.

Durian Tree

The durian tree produces giant, spiky fruits that have a distinctive, pungent aroma and are popular throughout Asia. This large tree can also be grown in the US in certain climates. Durian fruit gets a bad rap sometimes. Some people think the ripe edible fruit smells like sewage or rot, while others think the opposite and really appreciate it. The flesh is described as custard-like and sweet by lovers of the fruit or like onion sauce by those who aren’t fans. Love it or hate it, durian fruit grows on a durian tree, and you can grow your own at home if you desire. It’s a divisive fruit that polarizes people who come into contact with it. It’s considered the “King of Fruits” in Southeast Asia, where several cultivars exist. In the United States, durian fruit is generally only one species of this multifaceted fruit. It may have a distinctive aroma, but eating durian can nourish the body with a wealth of nutrients. If you live in tropical regions with climates similar to Southeastern Asia, you can grow your own edible fruits from durian trees and enjoy raw fruit, durian chips, durian paste, and durian leaf juice. It’s such a versatile fruit, despite its reputation. Why not try growing it yourself?Durio zibethinus is one species of fruit trees found in markets in North America, while other species are located throughout Asia. Durian is in the family Malvaceae and is commonly referred to as the civet cat tree. The species zibethinus is named after the civet, a feline creature that hangs out in durian trees on the resident durian plantation in Malaysia.

Coconut Tree

Coconuts are much adored, and those in warm climates can grow their own coconut tree. Coconut fruits are the most widely used nut in the world. It’s safe to say you’ve probably heard of coconut coir, and you’ve enjoyed the delectable dried and sugared shavings of coconut. But have you ever considered growing a coconut tree yourself? Not only can you harvest the delicious flesh of a tropical coconut in the right climate, but you can also use the fibrous fruit coat in soil mixes, too. So much can be done with coconuts and the coconut palm that it might as well be the signature feature of the tropics. The coconut tree fruit is commonly used in cooking, and mature coconuts contain hydrating coconut water. But there’s so much mystery surrounding coconut cultivation. That’s pretty incredible when you consider coconut fruits are the most widely used nut in the world. You may think, “I can’t grow coconut palm. I live in Maine.” But that’s not exactly true! And what’s more, you may not need as much space to grow a coconut palm tree in northern USDA zones as you would in the tropics. How is this possible? Read on, and let’s explore the wondrous Cocos nucifera. The scientific name of coconut palms is Cocos nucifera, known commonly as coconut, coconut palm, and the succinct coco. Coconut is the most important commercial nut crop in the world. Not only do people across the world center their lives around coconut trees, but the economies of coconut-producing countries benefit greatly from coconut production.

Don’t Make These Common Tree Planting Mistakes

Although planting a tree is an exciting task, rushed planting and a lack of knowledge can lead to unhealthy trees. Join plant expert Briana Yablonski to learn common tree planting mistakes you should avoid. Adding trees to your property is a great way to provide natural shade, support pollinators, and enjoy homegrown fruit. But planting trees isn’t as simple as sticking them in the ground and walking away. Common mistakes include planting at the wrong depth, watering improperly, and choosing the wrong species can all lead to unhealthy or dead trees. Whether you’re planting your first tree or adding to your backyard orchard, it’s helpful to know some common tree planting mistakes. Avoiding these 11 errors will increase the odds you’ll end up with a healthy tree. Not all trees are well suited for every climate, sun exposure, and soil type. While you may dream of growing a weeping willow or flowering cherry in your front yard, planting a species that doesn’t fit into the surrounding environment will likely lead to an unhealthy plant and unhappy humans. When choosing a new tree for your property, take note of the following characteristics and choose a species that will thrive in that environment. Hardiness zone: Most species are suitable for various hardiness zones, but some will suffer when exposed to extreme heat or cold. Sun exposure: Whether you’re planting in full sun or shade, you can find a variety for the type of light you’re working with. Soil moisture: Some species, like willows and alders, require moist soil, and others grow best when the soil remains slightly dry. Although you can supplement the moisture level through irrigation, choosing a species well suited to the native moisture level will simplify care. Soil type: Some grow best in loose sand, while others thrive in dense clay. Available space: Ensure you have enough space for the full size at maturity. For instance, if you’re growing on a balcony, you’ll have to skip larger trees. Planting at the Wrong Time of Year Planting at the right time of year is crucial to its success. Aim to get your saplings in the ground when they’re dormant, which means they’re not actively growing. While the plants will take time to put on new growth, dormant trees will face less stress during the transition from a container to the ground. Fall and spring are both great times for planting trees. If you plant in the fall, wait until hot temperatures have subsided. However, try to plant a few weeks before freezing temperatures arrive. Planting around the time the leaves fall from the trees is a good bet. If you plant in the spring, get saplings in the ground before the buds break. It’s okay if the saplings experience a few frosts after you put them in the ground, but protect the new transplants with row cover if a frost arrives after bud break. Choosing a Poor Location While trees may seem hardier than tender annuals and vegetative perennials, they’re still sensitive to the type of light, moisture, and soil. If you add a tree to a less-than-ideal area, it may not thrive. Along with looking at environmental conditions like hardiness zone and light, you should also think about the tree’s growth. A tree may grow well next to your house or beside a brick wall for a few years, but once it reaches a certain size, it can begin encroaching on structures and utility lines. Therefore, it’s important to account for the tree’s growth before selecting a location. Look for above-ground obstacles like buildings, power lines, and other trees. While you can prune the tree to avoid these obstructions, it will involve consistent work. Next, think about low-lying items like sidewalks and driveways. As tree roots expand, they can cause these surfaces to buckle and crack. You should also consider if the roots’ spread will endanger underground utilities. If you want to plant a tree close to obstacles, look for a species that’s short and/or narrow. It helps to look at the tree’s mature shape when deciding which species to plant. Not Checking for Utilities Before Digging Before you dig a hole, you should always call to check and see if there are utility lines underground. Digging into an electric line or water supply pipe while planting a tree is not only dangerous, but it can be a costly mistake. Even if you don’t think any utilities are buried in your intended planting area, it doesn’t hurt to check. Most utility companies will come out and mark utility lines for no charge. It may take a few days or weeks for them to make it out to your property, so contact them well before your intended planting date. If you’re not sure who to call, dial 811 to be directed to the proper resources. Digging Too Small of a Hole One of the most common mistakes gardeners make when planting trees involves digging a hole that’s too small. Since 80% of tree roots are in the top two feet of soil, you want to make it as easy as possible for the roots to grow horizontally. Digging a wide hole loosens the soil and speeds root expansion. Regardless of which type and size of tree you’re planting, you should always dig the hole at least three times as wide as the root ball. You don’t have to dig the entire hole at the same depth. Instead, you can create a saucer-shaped hole that’s deep in the middle and shallower towards the edges. The roots will have an easier time growing into loosened soil than compacted soil. Plus, removing the soil gives you an opportunity to remove any large rocks that would inhibit root growth. Not Watering Enough Supplying newly planted trees with an adequate amount of moisture helps them recover from the stress of planting, and saves you from the headaches of moisture mistakes. Since young saplings and bare root specimens don’t have developed root systems, they require more frequent watering than larger trees. If they don’t have access to enough water, they will have difficulty regulating their temperatures, completing photosynthesis, and fighting disease. Many gardeners start on the right foot and keep their trees well watered in the weeks following planting. But as a few more weeks pass, life gets busy, and many forget to provide the new tree with water. This lack of irrigation can prove especially problematic during hot and dry summers. The amount of water to apply depends on the soil type, tree size, and rainfall. However, you should generally apply one-and-a-half gallons of water for each inch of the tree’s trunk. For example, supply three gallons of water to a two-inch wide tree and four-and-a-half gallons to a three-inch wide tree. The watering frequency typically decreases as the time from the planting date increases. A good rule of thumb is to water every day during the two weeks following planting and then every two to three weeks in the following ten weeks. While these are good recommendations, check the soil moisture and adjust as necessary. You can supply the water with a hose or bucket or automate watering with the help of a drip irrigation system and a timer. Regardless of which irrigation method you use, aim for infrequent deep waterings rather than frequent shallow waterings. Deep irrigation encourages the growth of deep roots and helps the plant withstand wind and drought. Watering Too Much Yes, there is such a thing as watering too much! Overwatering can prevent the roots from completing gas exchange, taking up nutrients, and properly absorbing water. Constantly moist soil also increases the chances that roots will develop fungal diseases. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between watering, and remember to water deeply and infrequently. Watering your plants a little each day will keep the soil moist and discourage the development of deep roots. Planting Too Deep Whether you start with a bare root or a potted tree, planting at the proper depth is crucial. If you plant too deep, the upper roots often grow around the trunk and strangle it. At first, this underground issue isn’t noticeable. But after a few years, a girdled tree often displays a quick and serious decline. You may notice premature leaf drop, yellowing leaves, reduced growth, and intense disease and insect pressure. Eventually, your once-healthy maple or birch dies. So, how deep should you plant your tree? No matter which type of material you’re starting with, use the trunk’s structure as a guide. Sometimes, nursery workers plant potted saplings too deep in their containers. Therefore, you can’t assume planting the top of the potting soil flush with the ground will lead to the correct depth. First, look for a flare in the trunk. This is the point where the straight trunk begins curving out before the roots. Placing the flare an inch or two above the soil surface is ideal. If you’re planting a grafted tree, keep the graft a few inches above the soil line. A trunk flare is often hard to see in small saplings. If that’s the case, you can use the top-most roots to guide the depth. These large, structural roots should be located one to three inches below the soil surface. If you’re growing on a slope, you’ll need to make some adjustments to ensure both the uphill and downhill roots are at the proper depth. First, flatten out the area where you plan to plant by digging into the slope or adding extra soil. Once you have a flat area, plant as you normally would. Starting with a Rootbound Sapling When you’re choosing a specimen, you have three main options: bare root, container-grown, and wrapped. If you start with a specimen growing in a pot, you should make sure it isn’t rootbound. If plants remain in their pots for too long, the roots eventually begin circling the bottom of the container. When you remove these rootbound saplings from their containers and place them in the ground, they often have a difficult time adapting to their new home. They have plenty of roots, but they have a difficult time spreading throughout the soil. It’s best to avoid purchasing rootbound trees. However, if you’re starting with a container-grown specimen with tightly-packed roots, you can take a few steps to help it adjust to planting. Cutting an X through the bottom of the roots will help them expand. You can also use your hands to lightly pull the roots apart. Improper Mulching Too much mulch, too little mulch, and improper mulch placement can all negatively impact trees. Therefore, it’s important to apply wood chips, straw, and any other type of organic matter in just the right way to protect them. When you add mulch, add two to four inches around the base of your tree. This will help protect the roots against both hot and cold temperatures and limit evaporation. Avoid applying more than four inches of mulch since too thick of a layer can lead to issues with airflow and water infiltration. Make sure to leave a few inches of space surrounding the trunk free of mulch, and never mound the mulch against the trunk. Creating a mulch volcano or mulch pyramid leads to multiple issues and a slow but serious decline in tree health. It can trap moisture and cause the bark to decay, which leaves the plant more susceptible to pests and disease. Roots often grow into the mounded mulch and sometimes girdle the trunk. As the mulch decays, these above-ground roots are left open to the air and quickly dehydrate. Not Protecting from Pests Since mature trees are expensive and often impractical, gardeners usually start with plants that are less than ten feet tall. These small plants are easier to plant and better able to adapt to their new home, but they’re also more susceptible to attacks from pests. Mammals like deer and beavers find the tender young growth to be delicious. These critters can eat through an entire trunk in a single day and kill the tree. Fortunately, you can easily protect from these pests. Wrapping the trunk with wire or heavy plastic mesh will make it impossible for the mammals to reach it. You should also keep an eye out for insect pests. Although you may not see any pests immediately after planting, caterpillars may appear later on. If they are causing serious damage to the leaves, you can remove them by hand or spray the foliage with Bt. Sometimes, a strong stream of water from a hose is enough.

Planting Under Cedar Trees

Do you have a cedar tree in your yard, but aren't quite sure what to plant underneath it? Certain plants will grow much better underneath cedar trees, but how do you know which ones to pick? Cedar trees are a favorite landscaping tree for many people all over the world. But finding the perfect plant to grow underneath them can be a bit of a challenge because of their structure, and root system. Adding plants under any tree is a common technique for integrating that tree into a landscape and avoiding empty space. You can also create an interesting layering effect by adding a mix of ground cover and shrubs. However, there are some important considerations when choosing these plants, especially for cedars. The wrong plants could harm nearby trees or not do well if they have to compete with the tree’s root system for water and nutrients. Read on to learn more about cedar trees and which plants do well underneath them.Cedar trees belong to the Pinaceae family. They’re native to the Himalayas and the countries that border the Mediterranean Sea. These evergreen trees are incredibly resilient. They don’t need a lot of water and thrive in slightly acidic soil with no fertilizer. The only maintenance they require is the occasional mulching and some light pruning. You’ll also have to water regularly when you first plant a cedar tree, but adult trees only need rainwater. Cedars need plenty of sun. They grow rapidly and do well in Zones 7 through 9A, but it’s a very versatile tree that can adapt to different conditions. There are a few diseases to watch out for, including cedar-apple rust, a type of fungal disease that affects cedar trees and apple trees. Port-oxford-cedar root disease is a condition that can spread through soil movement. Besides improving the aesthetics of your yard, plants that grow underneath your cedar tree can help loosen the soil and help the tree’s root system absorb more oxygen and nutrients. Another benefit is that plants will absorb excess water and help create ideal conditions for the cedar, especially if you live in an area with heavy precipitations. If water accumulates at the base of a tree, it can make the soil too compact and make it difficult for the roots to grow.Some plants do well under cedars and others don’t. Cedars thrive in soil that is slightly acidic, but they can grow in soil with a pH of anywhere from 5.5 to 7.2, so don’t assume your garden soil is necessarily acidic if you have a cedar tree. It’s best to test the soil before selecting plants that will go underneath the tree, to figure out whether you should select species that do well in acidic soil or not. Shade can be a challenge. Cedars are evergreens with dense foliage. Cedars can provide similar challenges to growing under other shade trees like oaks. Depending on the cedar variety, they can cast a big area of shade, making planting underneath them a challenge. The dripline can be another issue. Because of the dense foliage, water will drip where it ends and create a zone that could get saturated with water. The root system can vary from one type of cedar tree to another, but lots of trees in that family have shallow and fibrous roots. Limiting the number of plants you add around the tree is important so the tree can still get the water and nutrients it needs from the soil.

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