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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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Do you want to grow the largest tree in the world? If your landscape has 30-60 square feet of open space and lots of summer moisture, you can plant your own Giant Sequoia to reach up to 150 feet in your lifetime! In this guide, garden expert Logan Hailey explains how to grow this gigantic living fossil. If you want to grow the largest tree in the world, you can plant your own Giant Sequoia in USDA zones 6 through 8. These breathtaking giants are native to California, and their species has lived on Earth for millions of years. Only about 75 wild groves remain scattered along the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in central California, where they once dominated the landscape until logging and more severe wildfires killed huge stands. Still, these are some of the most fire-resistant and climate-resilient trees on the planet. Amazingly, these living fossils can grow up to 150 feet in just 50 years! They are cold and heat-tolerant, growing around the U.S. and the world as ornamentals and timber resources. You don’t need to live in California to grow a redwood, but you do need to ensure the proper spacing and conditions for this rapid-growing conifer to thrive. Let’s dig into everything you need to know about growing your own gigantic redwood! When dinosaurs roamed the Earth about 70 to 180 million years ago, gigantic conifers ruled North America and Europe. Often called the redwoods, most Sequoia relatives have gone extinct, but two primary species remain: Coast Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) and Giant Sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum). Another smaller relative, the Dawn Redwood, is widely cultivated and grows wild inChina. While Coast Redwoods are the tallest trees in the world, Giant Sequoias are the largest by volume. The largest known specimen is nicknamed “The General Sherman Tree,” and grows in Sequoia National Park near Mount Whitney in Central California. This tree is over 270 feet tall and 30 feet in diameter. Scientists estimate that it is about 3,800 years old! Though you may not see its tremendous heights in your lifetime, planting a Giant Sequoia tree sapling in your landscape could yield 30-60 or more feet of growth in a few decades and up to 150 feet in 50 years. The Giant Sequoia tree—also known as giant redwood, Sierra redwood, or Sequoiadendron giganteum—is one of three remaining redwood species in the world. This coniferous tree grows 200-300 feet tall and about 10 to 20 feet in diameter, withstanding centuries of wildfires and climate changes. Native to the Sierra Nevada Mountains of Central California, Giant Sequoias are the largest trees by volume and are now cultivated in many parts of the world as ornamental and timber species. The last remaining native wild groves are the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California. This species is specifically adapted to mild climates with humid winters and dry mild summers at elevations between 4,000 and 8,500 feet. However, there is evidence that ancestors of the Giant Sequoias were once widespread across the Northern Hemisphere. They are now cultivated around the world, including parts of the Pacific Northwest, Southern United States, South America, Europe, and Japan. Nursery-grown saplings are the quickest and easiest way to establish a Giant Sequoia, but you can also grow this tree from seeds or cuttings. The seeds can be collected from mature redwoods (70+ years old) in the fall, but they have very low germination rates. Cuttings are best taken from younger trees under 10 years old, so your decision between seed or cutting may depend on whether or not properly-aged trees grow in your area. These nuances also explain why purchasing from a reputable nursery is ideal. The Jonsteen Company’s SequoiaTrees.com offers live tree seedlings for shipment. If you wish to grow an ornamental cultivar like ‘French Beauty’ or ‘Albospica,’ you may need to find a specialized landscaping nursery.
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Hardy geraniums (those softly mounding perennials with cupped blooms) are durable and offer years of easy color. Award-winning geranium varieties bring the highest performance and ornament, all in an easygoing, adaptable package. Gardening expert Katherine Rowe explores prized geranium varieties to bring the biggest appeal to the landscape and to pollinators, too.Hardy geranium, or cranesbill, features softly mounding, trailing stems and saucers of delicate, deep blue-purple blooms. Flowering begins in spring and, for many prized varieties, continues through frost. In dark to light periwinkle and magenta, violet, white, and pink, the species and their cultivars are a highlight in the border (and we should grow more of them). Not only are hardy geraniums ornamental, but they’re also a rich source of nectar and pollen for pollinators, especially bees. And they’re easy-care, adaptable perennials with few maintenance needs. Their leafy forms and rich blooms soften the border, container, window box, and raised bed arrangement. Let stems trail over a low wall or comingle with neighboring perennials. The palmate, semi-evergreen leaves are attractive year-round, even when not in flower. From gray-green to purple-blotched, the leaves bring dynamic visual interest. Enjoy the graceful beauty of a durable perennial by selecting award-winning geranium varieties.True geraniums (Geranium spp.) differ from zonal or annual types, which are in the same Geraniaceae family but a different species (Pelargonium spp.). While they share the common name of the hardy genus, the tender, annual types have different forms, flowering, and growing requirements. Hardy geraniums are tough and cold hardy, while tender geraniums are frost-sensitive outside of USDA zones 10-11. Geranium spp. (cranesbill) are hardy in USDA zones 3-8. There are nearly 300 species and a sea of cultivars and hybrids. Some cranesbills bloom in spring and early summer, while others last into autumn. They naturalize under optimal conditions, spreading by rhizome and some by seed, but aren’t weedy, aggressive, or competitive with neighboring plants. Many hybrids are sterile, with a long flowering season without seed production. Hardy geraniums are adaptable but grow best in organically rich, well-draining soils with even moisture. Most benefit from shearing after flowering to promote a flush of new growth. But these low-maintenance perennials don’t require deadheading to bloom. Let leaves remain in the fall for a flash of rich green in the frosty garden. As a bonus, deer and rabbits find their texture and aroma unappealing. In hot climates, geraniums benefit from shade protection from the afternoon sun.
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Do your favorite evergreens look like they’re about to destroy their pots? It’s time repot your Norfolk Island pine trees once they get too big for their containers. In this article, horticulture expert Matt Dursum shows you how to repot your trees in time for the holiday season. Norfolk Island pine trees are popular gifts during the holiday season. They grow well in containers and thrive in pleasant indoor spaces with bright indirect light. As easy as they are to maintain, they’ll outgrow their containers every three or four years. After all, these Araucarias can grow to 200 feet tall! However, don’t let their potential size intimidate you. They are slow growers, and with a little maintenance and repotting, you’ll have vibrant indoor trees for years to come. Keep reading below to learn the best ways to repot your Norfolk Island pine tree. Spring is the perfect time to repot your Norfolk Island pines. During this time, they send nutrients and water toward their apical buds. This active growth phase energizes your evergreen houseplants for the new season. With the extra energy, they’ll handle the stress of replanting. After the shock of repotting, they’ll divert their energy to their roots. Your trees will have the rest of spring and summer to grow their roots in the new soil. The longer days bring more sunshine and energy, making it easier for them to grow. If you repot them in fall or winter, your trees won’t have the nutrients and energy they need to handle the move. Also, the shorter days mean they’ll have less sunlight to draw energy from. Although they’ll probably survive repotting during these seasons, it’ll be harder for them to recover. Norfolk Island pines need a well-draining pot that’s at least one or two inches wider and deeper than their previous container. They flourish in earthenware or even 65-gallon grow bags. Earthenware pots work well because they regulate the temperature of your soil. Your Norfolk Island pines thrive in consistently warm temperatures. Besides the materials and size, the most important thing to look for is good drainage. Although they come from wet environments, they don’t like growing in soggy soil. This can lead to root rot and disease. Choosing the right type of soil is important for growing these sub-tropical evergreens in pots. In their native habitat of Norfolk Island, they grow in volcanic clay soils with high acidity. You can mimic this soil environment at home. Start by blending well-draining grit with sand and compost. Add peat moss for the right texture and porousness. Aim for a soil pH of around 4.5 to 5.5. Test your soil with a home test kit now and then to adjust it as needed to maintain a slightly acidic range. You can lower your soil’s pH by using sulfur or ammonia-containing fertilizers. Lowering your soil’s pH can be trickier than raising it, so keep testing until you get it right. When you’re ready to repot them into larger containers, handle them with care. Their roots are delicate and easy to damage. This is especially true when your plants are young. Even though their roots are delicate, young trees are easier to repot than mature ones. Norfolk Island pines may not be true pines—they’re Araucaria, similar to Chilean Monkey Puzzle trees—but they can still be sharp. Wear sturdy gardening gloves to protect your hands from their leaves and spikes around the trunk. Gloves don’t just protect you from your trees’ spikes. They also help prevent the spread of bacteria and fungus on the plants and your skin. Once you repot your evergreens, make sure they’re getting enough light. These trees need a lot of light to flourish and won’t handle too much shade. Without an abundance of sunlight, your trees may experience leggy growth. Move your containers near a south-facing window if you live in the Northern Hemisphere. Turn your containers every few days to make sure each part of your trees gets enough sunlight. They can handle lower light conditions in winter, but in spring and summer, take advantage of the bright long days to encourage vigorous growth. They will bounce back from the shock of repotting and thrive in their new containers. Give your newly replanted Araucarias a daily mist. This helps replicate their native environment and gives them enough moisture to stay hydrated. These towering giants-turned-houseplants thrive in misty environments with 50% humidity. Misting your plants is an easy way to make the surrounding air more humid. It also keeps the branches moist after transplanting. Dry and brittle branches can easily snap off, leaving the plants susceptible to infection. After misting for one or two months, your trees should be good to go on their own. You can always use a humidifier if the air is continuously dry. Overwatering your newly transplanted Norfolk Island pines can lead to a lot of problems. These evergreens have delicate roots that are susceptible to root rot. Water them consistently, but let the upper layer of soil dry out between watering. Allow the containers to drain completely before giving them another soak. If you notice your tree branches turning brown and brittle, you’ve restricted their water too much. Water them a little more until you see their bright green color return. Healthy foliage should be vibrant and soft. Mature Norfolk Island pines growing outdoors don’t need fertilizer. However, when growing your evergreens indoors, a bit of nutrient-dense plant food helps. After repotting in the spring, try using a weak liquid houseplant fertilizer. This will help the roots grow and form a strong root system. When you see new growth appear in spring, feed your plants some more. Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter when new growth slows down. Over-fertilizing can cause problems with your plants and lead to nutrient buildup in the soil. Because these trees love slightly acidic soil, look for a liquid conifer fertilizer or food with extra sulfur or ammonia. Always follow the directions on your fertilizer packet. Sometimes, the stress of repotting can weaken your evergreen houseplants and their root systems. They may start to lean or, at worst, fall over. When this happens, try sticking a stake in the soil to support them. Wooden or metal stakes work the best. Make sure to disinfect the stakes before sticking them in your soil. Pests can hitch a ride on wood and quickly infect your container’s soil. After disinfecting, carefully slide the stake into the soil away from the root system. Once you’ve staked your soil, use string to wrap around the trunk and the stake. As the roots become stronger and more established, you can remove the stake and let your trees stand on their own. Watch your trees after removing them, in case they need more support. Norfolk Island pines generally have few pests to worry about. However, indoor plants can sometimes experience issues related to overwatering and, occasionally, bug infestations. This can especially be true after repotting. Give your trees a thorough check after you repot them. Look for aphids, spider mites, scale, and mealybugs. If you used soil from the outdoors, there’s a chance of Armillaria fungus infecting the plants. The most common problems to look out for are not pests and diseases, but environmental factors. Repotting changes the soil pH and nutrient composition your trees are used to. Browning or yellowing leaves or dropping branches mean your trees are undergoing stress.
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Peruvian lily from the Alstroemeria group of plants is a perennial with stunning flowers that last long as a garden and cut flower. Once you have the care down, they can be multiplied each year for a continuous supply. Kevin Espiritu will take you through the steps to grow these pretty flowers.Alstroemeria is a beautiful Peruvian lily in many colors, sure to delight and please the most uptight acquaintances. It can be grown in the ground or in containers, and it multiplies over time. That means you can have unlimited lilies! Simply divide them in spring, and propagate. With fairly easy care, members of the Alstroemeria genus are a lovely sight in the garden and are fun to grow. Though you could buy this popular cut flower as a bouquet, why not grow a passel or pretties yourself and have ready-made gifts for your nearest and dearest all year long?The Alstroemeria lily was named after the Swedish botanist Clas Alströmer, who brought the seeds to Europe. Recognized by its upside-down, twisty leaves, this feature is how the Peruvian lily flower came to be associated with the rollercoaster ride that is friendship: the ups and downs, twists and turns that the most devoted friends stick through. How to Grow The care this plant requires is well worth the effort when you see those gorgeous blooms opening to the sun. The look on your best friend’s face when you present this gift will be well worth taking a picture of so you can make fun of the expression in the future. Light A shot of pink colored flowering plants alongside the same flower with a different color in the background, all basking in bright sunlight outdoors Select a location that has full sun or dappled sunlight. If your soil temperatures soar above 70°F (21°C), pick a spot where it will be protected from the sun in the afternoon. Otherwise, go for a full-sun area (dappled sun can also be a tolerable choice). This gives you the best chance for blooms. Water Water stream pouring out of silver watering can in the vegetable garden. Keep the soil moist but ensure the flowers do not get waterlogged. At first planting, keep the rhizomes well-watered until the first shoots appear. After that, a one-inch deep watering every week until well established should be fine. Too much water can create conditions where fungal diseases can proliferate. Therefore, keep the soil somewhat moist, but do not let your lilies get waterlogged. If there has been regular rainfall, additional water may not be necessary. Container-grown plants may need more water than in-ground plantings. Soil Use an organic, well-draining soil that can be amended with perlite. Start with the ground cleared of all debris. A soil of 70% organic material and 30% perlite is a good idea if you have heavy clay soil. However, this might not be necessary as long as the soil provides enough air and excellent drainage. To protect against summer’s heat, add a three-inch deep ring of mulch, either bark or compost, around the base without placing it directly on the plant. In areas where winters are cold, apply a couple of inches of mulch in fall for root protection through frosts. Temperature Ideal temperatures for these plants will depend on the season. Autumn and spring are usually the best times for planting, before the soil gets hot. In early spring when the temperatures are changing, a greenhouse can be handy for avoiding scorched leaves. You can ventilate and heat as needed whenever humidity rises above 85%. You can dig up your tubers and overwinter them in regions with constant subfreezing winter, or simply grow them in containers and move them indoors. Fertilizer Person pouring liquid fertilizer into a small measuring cap with a green plant in the background. Use a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every week when blooming begins. When your plants have reached two years of age, it’s a good time to supplement the soil with nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium during the growing season. Pay close attention to your soil’s pH levels; higher than seven will result in iron and manganese deficiencies, and a yellowing of leaves. For both in-ground and container lilies, feed with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every week when blooming begins. Cease at the end of the bloom period, and do not apply during dormancy, in late fall through winter. Maintenance Trim off stems of dead flowers or diseased foliage. It’s a good idea to trim the stems of dead flowers and save the plant’s energy for making new ones. Otherwise, not much pruning is needed. Good thing, too, so I can save my energy for gazing at these glorious blooms from the comfort of my porch swing. Of course, if any damaged or diseased leaves crop up, remove them as needed. Propagation The plant can be propagated by seed of division. You can propagate using two methods. By seed is one way. Another way is to dig up the Peruvian lily bulbs and divide the rhizomes in fall. Cut the plants six inches above ground about ten days before you intend to dig them up. A one-year-old plant may yield up to 15 rhizomes, a two-year-old up to 25. In the fall, you can overwinter your tubers if you’d like. Having a space to store roots in freezing weather is great for gardeners outside the plant’s hardiness range. Put the tubers in a box with coconut coir or peat moss and leave them in a cool, dry place. Then, replant the tubers in spring. Common Problems While the Peruvian lily is a fairly hardy plant, there are a few common issues. Here are the ones you want to keep an eye out for. Growing Problems Overwatering and temperature imbalances will result in growth issues. If you live in an area with very cold winters, and you don’t protect or remove tubers in fall, your alstroemerias may die. Those tubers can be stored over winter, or covered with a thick layer of mulch for winter protection. Overwatering is the number one way to put your Peruvian lilies in peril. This invites pests and diseases which can weaken or kill your flowers. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. In rainy weather, don’t add extra irrigation. Pests A close-up of a leaf surface showing small brown thrips scattered across the green foliage. Thrips, aphids, spider mites, slugs and snails are the common pests of the plant. Most of the diseases your Peruvian lilies contract can be carried by thrips and aphids, so do your best to control these populations to prevent infection. Both pests feed on the sap of plants, causing overall weakening of the plant and yellowing and/or curled leaves. Insecticidal soap can be used to treat these pests. Spider mites may attack your lilies, and drink the plant’s juices as well. If you see masses of tiny mites on leaves or notice tightly woven webs, wipe these off with a damp cloth, and follow up with a misting of insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails may also feed on leaves when the soil remains moist for too long. In an especially rainy spring or summer, there’s no getting away from them. You can hand pick them off your plants at night or trap them with slug bait or a beer trap. Diseases A close-up of a plant's roots affected by a fungus, showing discolored, decaying roots and dark soil. Fungal and bacterial diseases cause severe damage to the plant. Pythium root rot causes wilting, stunted growth, and weak stems that collapse. This occurs when the soil is heavy and moist for long periods. A clean bed with one part composted pine bark mixed with four parts of soil is a good start. Allowing the soil to dry out may also give the plant a chance to recover. Remove and dispose of any affected plants. Rhizoctonia root rot causes wilted leaves and dried stems that don’t respond to watering. Double-check that the soil is well-draining. You may need to improve this by working some compost into the top ten inches. Get rid of the infected ones and concentrate on keeping the healthy ones healthy. Botrytis blight is better known as gray mold. It shows up during the warmer, damp days as furry, gray-brown spores. They transmit on wet plants, so keep space between them for air. Also, direct irrigation away from stems and below the leaves and flowers, and remove any debris or damaged plants. Diseases like tomato spotted wilt virus and mosaic virus cause patterns of lines and spots on foliage, and they have no treatment. Not only will you have to destroy the affected plants, you’d be wise to disinfect your gardening tools with a diluted bleach solution as well.
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