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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
gardening experts
Love olives? Growing olives at home is completely possible! One of the longest-lived fruit trees, olives are a legacy tree that produces fruit for centuries. Everyone knows the olive, a staple of cocktails and great in salads. But have you ever considered growing olives yourself? Perhaps more importantly, is an olive a fruit or a vegetable? Most people seem to consider them to be vegetables. But those black olives on tree branches are most definitely a fruit. They develop in a range of colors: purple, green, dark brown, black, and even pink! Both dwarf olive trees and regular ones originated from western Asia and spread down the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. These lovely trees are evergreen and are considered to be one of the longest-living fruit trees. The average lifespan of these trees is generally between 300 to 600 years. However, some trees can live up to be 4000 years old. One of the oldest olive trees is on the island of Crete. It is believed to be over 4000 years old. The astonishing part is that the tree is still producing fruit! The fruit is loaded with minerals. They are also rich in Vitamin A, B, E, and K. Almost 20% of the fruit is oil, and that shows in its use. While these fruits are used in the culinary world in multiple ways, olive oil is one of the largest uses. About 3.3 million metric tons of olive oil is produced every year.The botanical name of olive is Olea europaea. Generally, the fruit goes by the name olive, and the tree is simply known as the olive tree. The olive tree generally reaches a height of 26 to 49 feet with a round and well-branched crown. Olea europaea is native to most of Africa, Southern Europe and Southern Asia. Various types of these trees are grown in all Mediterranean countries. It is also harvested in Australia, New Zealand, South America, South Africa, and the United States. However, it has become invasive in Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii, and southern California.
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Peruvian lily from the Alstroemeria group of plants is a perennial with stunning flowers that last long as a garden and cut flower. Once you have the care down, they can be multiplied each year for a continuous supply. Kevin Espiritu will take you through the steps to grow these pretty flowers.Alstroemeria is a beautiful Peruvian lily in many colors, sure to delight and please the most uptight acquaintances. It can be grown in the ground or in containers, and it multiplies over time. That means you can have unlimited lilies! Simply divide them in spring, and propagate. With fairly easy care, members of the Alstroemeria genus are a lovely sight in the garden and are fun to grow. Though you could buy this popular cut flower as a bouquet, why not grow a passel or pretties yourself and have ready-made gifts for your nearest and dearest all year long?The Alstroemeria lily was named after the Swedish botanist Clas Alströmer, who brought the seeds to Europe. Recognized by its upside-down, twisty leaves, this feature is how the Peruvian lily flower came to be associated with the rollercoaster ride that is friendship: the ups and downs, twists and turns that the most devoted friends stick through. How to Grow The care this plant requires is well worth the effort when you see those gorgeous blooms opening to the sun. The look on your best friend’s face when you present this gift will be well worth taking a picture of so you can make fun of the expression in the future. Light A shot of pink colored flowering plants alongside the same flower with a different color in the background, all basking in bright sunlight outdoors Select a location that has full sun or dappled sunlight. If your soil temperatures soar above 70°F (21°C), pick a spot where it will be protected from the sun in the afternoon. Otherwise, go for a full-sun area (dappled sun can also be a tolerable choice). This gives you the best chance for blooms. Water Water stream pouring out of silver watering can in the vegetable garden. Keep the soil moist but ensure the flowers do not get waterlogged. At first planting, keep the rhizomes well-watered until the first shoots appear. After that, a one-inch deep watering every week until well established should be fine. Too much water can create conditions where fungal diseases can proliferate. Therefore, keep the soil somewhat moist, but do not let your lilies get waterlogged. If there has been regular rainfall, additional water may not be necessary. Container-grown plants may need more water than in-ground plantings. Soil Use an organic, well-draining soil that can be amended with perlite. Start with the ground cleared of all debris. A soil of 70% organic material and 30% perlite is a good idea if you have heavy clay soil. However, this might not be necessary as long as the soil provides enough air and excellent drainage. To protect against summer’s heat, add a three-inch deep ring of mulch, either bark or compost, around the base without placing it directly on the plant. In areas where winters are cold, apply a couple of inches of mulch in fall for root protection through frosts. Temperature Ideal temperatures for these plants will depend on the season. Autumn and spring are usually the best times for planting, before the soil gets hot. In early spring when the temperatures are changing, a greenhouse can be handy for avoiding scorched leaves. You can ventilate and heat as needed whenever humidity rises above 85%. You can dig up your tubers and overwinter them in regions with constant subfreezing winter, or simply grow them in containers and move them indoors. Fertilizer Person pouring liquid fertilizer into a small measuring cap with a green plant in the background. Use a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every week when blooming begins. When your plants have reached two years of age, it’s a good time to supplement the soil with nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium during the growing season. Pay close attention to your soil’s pH levels; higher than seven will result in iron and manganese deficiencies, and a yellowing of leaves. For both in-ground and container lilies, feed with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every week when blooming begins. Cease at the end of the bloom period, and do not apply during dormancy, in late fall through winter. Maintenance Trim off stems of dead flowers or diseased foliage. It’s a good idea to trim the stems of dead flowers and save the plant’s energy for making new ones. Otherwise, not much pruning is needed. Good thing, too, so I can save my energy for gazing at these glorious blooms from the comfort of my porch swing. Of course, if any damaged or diseased leaves crop up, remove them as needed. Propagation The plant can be propagated by seed of division. You can propagate using two methods. By seed is one way. Another way is to dig up the Peruvian lily bulbs and divide the rhizomes in fall. Cut the plants six inches above ground about ten days before you intend to dig them up. A one-year-old plant may yield up to 15 rhizomes, a two-year-old up to 25. In the fall, you can overwinter your tubers if you’d like. Having a space to store roots in freezing weather is great for gardeners outside the plant’s hardiness range. Put the tubers in a box with coconut coir or peat moss and leave them in a cool, dry place. Then, replant the tubers in spring. Common Problems While the Peruvian lily is a fairly hardy plant, there are a few common issues. Here are the ones you want to keep an eye out for. Growing Problems Overwatering and temperature imbalances will result in growth issues. If you live in an area with very cold winters, and you don’t protect or remove tubers in fall, your alstroemerias may die. Those tubers can be stored over winter, or covered with a thick layer of mulch for winter protection. Overwatering is the number one way to put your Peruvian lilies in peril. This invites pests and diseases which can weaken or kill your flowers. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. In rainy weather, don’t add extra irrigation. Pests A close-up of a leaf surface showing small brown thrips scattered across the green foliage. Thrips, aphids, spider mites, slugs and snails are the common pests of the plant. Most of the diseases your Peruvian lilies contract can be carried by thrips and aphids, so do your best to control these populations to prevent infection. Both pests feed on the sap of plants, causing overall weakening of the plant and yellowing and/or curled leaves. Insecticidal soap can be used to treat these pests. Spider mites may attack your lilies, and drink the plant’s juices as well. If you see masses of tiny mites on leaves or notice tightly woven webs, wipe these off with a damp cloth, and follow up with a misting of insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails may also feed on leaves when the soil remains moist for too long. In an especially rainy spring or summer, there’s no getting away from them. You can hand pick them off your plants at night or trap them with slug bait or a beer trap. Diseases A close-up of a plant's roots affected by a fungus, showing discolored, decaying roots and dark soil. Fungal and bacterial diseases cause severe damage to the plant. Pythium root rot causes wilting, stunted growth, and weak stems that collapse. This occurs when the soil is heavy and moist for long periods. A clean bed with one part composted pine bark mixed with four parts of soil is a good start. Allowing the soil to dry out may also give the plant a chance to recover. Remove and dispose of any affected plants. Rhizoctonia root rot causes wilted leaves and dried stems that don’t respond to watering. Double-check that the soil is well-draining. You may need to improve this by working some compost into the top ten inches. Get rid of the infected ones and concentrate on keeping the healthy ones healthy. Botrytis blight is better known as gray mold. It shows up during the warmer, damp days as furry, gray-brown spores. They transmit on wet plants, so keep space between them for air. Also, direct irrigation away from stems and below the leaves and flowers, and remove any debris or damaged plants. Diseases like tomato spotted wilt virus and mosaic virus cause patterns of lines and spots on foliage, and they have no treatment. Not only will you have to destroy the affected plants, you’d be wise to disinfect your gardening tools with a diluted bleach solution as well.
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Sago palms are a striking tropical with a rosette of fronded leaves. In the garden or as a houseplant, they make a long-lasting feature. Garden expert Katherine Rowe explores how to incorporate the handsome and historic specimen into your collection. Sago palms feature a whorl of evergreen leaves that form a rosette of dark green fronds. A staple of southern and coastal gardens, the tropicals thrive in warm climates with only short spells of below-freezing temperatures. They’re also easy-care houseplants, making them versatile across growing zones for overwintering indoors. Sagos belong to the ancient family Cycadaceae, with pre-historic origins some 200 million years ago, before dinosaurs walked the earth. Sagos aren’t true palms but cycads, more closely related to conifers than palms. But, their feathery fronds are palm-like nonetheless and make a stately accent in the border, along foundations, and as container features. The ancient genus holds about 100 species, with sagos as the most common. Cycas revoluta are long-lived and very slow-growing, reaching their maximum height in 50 years or more. Young plants take several years to reach two to three feet tall and wide. Some of the oldest species are over 200 years old. Originating in Japan’s subtropical southern islands, they lend a tropical flair and contrasting texture among other broadleaf plantings. The cycads are Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit recipients for their multi-season appeal, minimal maintenance requirements, and pest and disease resistance. Their fine texture adds interest and contrast among mixed plantings in a foundation or shrub border. Pair them with other tropicals like fatsia, farfugium, philodendron, cast iron plant, and dwarf palmettos for a diverse arrangement in partially shaded areas. They’re handsome among tailored compositions like boxwoods and with dwarf cypress, gardenias, and azaleas. Sagos also stand alone in containers flanking a front porch, kept small in indoor pots, or for bonsai. The dominant features of the cycad are its long, symmetrical, whorled leaves that emerge from a central crown and a shaggy trunk. The stems reach 20 to 60 inches long and hold slender leaflets that create a fronded look. Dark green, stiff, and highly polished, three to six-inch long leaflets line the arching stems with perfect spacing. The needled leaflets are attractive all year on sturdy and strong stems. Each leaflet has a spiny tip, so make sure they’re out of the way in high-traffic areas to avoid a poke. Sagos are gymnosperms, meaning they don’t produce flowers but a cone-like structure for reproduction and fruiting. They’re dioecious, requiring both a male and female plant for pollination to produce seeds. Bees and other insects visit each plant and transfer pollen from the male to the female as they go. Wind, too, disperses granules between plants to promote seeding. Sagos have ancient reproductive characteristics, where the male produces a central golden cone in late spring to early summer. Females have a fuzzy flowerhead that becomes packed with seeds. The bright orange or red seeds mature by fall. Indoors, cone production is less common. Sagos are toxic to people and pets if ingested, especially the seeds. Use caution in placement indoors or out with pets or children nearby, and use gloves when pruning, dividing offsets, or harvesting seeds. Cycas revoluta is native to the Japanese island of Kyushu, the Ryukyu archipelago, and southern China. They grow in thickets along hillsides. The islands are humid, sunny, and subtropical, with rainy seasons and typhoons. They experience warm summers and cool, moist winters. Fall and spring are the best times for planting. Cool temperatures and seasonal moisture give plants time to establish before winter and summer temperature fluctuations. For the least stress, avoid frozen or waterlogged conditions and extreme heat or drought periods. When planting, space the trees four to six feet apart to allow room for mature growth. Keep them out of overly windy spaces to protect foliage and stems; under a tree canopy or with a shrub buffer helps. The slow-growing cycads perform beautifully in a container and seldom need repotting. They prefer to be a little root-bound to produce new shoots. Refresh potting soil or move them to bigger quarters every few years. A well-draining potting mix is essential, and one for palms or cacti works well.
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Verbenas are purple-flowered plants with immense value in ornamental, pollinator, and herb gardens. Tall verbena is a hardy specimen that sometimes escapes cultivation. Learn how to cultivate it and manage its spread with seasoned grower Jerad Bryant.Easy-spreading plants are incredibly valuable in the home garden. You won’t have to fuss over their soil quality, their nutrient needs, or how moist they are. They’ll thrive whether you cater to them or not! Verbena bonariensis, or Brazilian vervain, is one such plant that spreads rapidly, readily, and without help from gardeners. You’ll spend more time pulling up its volunteer seedlings than you will caring for it! An herbaceous perennial, it’ll grow in the same spot from year to year and self-sow at the end of the growing season. With two spreading strategies, this clumping wildflower is ideal for wild, open spaces. Let it fill empty cracks and crevices of your flower beds, or have it roam freely between your vegetables and lure pollinators to your crops. Verbena bonariensis is a clump-forming perennial with long, wiry stems. It stays low to the ground early in the growing season, then it sprouts tall-reaching flowering stems to attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds in late spring and summer. Native to Brazil and Argentina, this vervain thrives in warm regions throughout these countries. It sprouts amongst tropical and subtropical trees, shrubs, and similar perennials. Though native to South America, it’s popular as an ornamental garden species, and its weedy tendencies allow it to escape gardens. This Verbena species has naturalized in the warm, subtropical climates of North America, Asia, Africa, and Australia. It self-sows readily and resprouts from perennial roots in USDA hardiness zones 7 through 11. In colder climates, it grows well as an annual wildflower during the warm months. This is one of many species that thrive on the continent. Many growers confuse it with the similar Brazilian type, V. brasiliensis. Though these South American verbenas are gorgeous and hardy, they are aggressive spreaders in the U.S. There are similar options native to the country that thrive in home gardens. Consider mixing Verbena bonariensis with native species like hoary and blue vervains. Verbena bonariensis sprouts clumps of rosettes in early spring. The leaves are deep green on top and gray-green underneath, with serrated margins. As the days lengthen and warm in spring, spongy, square stems emerge from the rosettes. They reach two to four feet tall and sprout flower clusters on their tips. The flowers are small but mighty! They’re full of nectar and pollen, and they attract a wealth of beneficial insects and pollinators. The tiny blossoms are light pink-purple; they sprout from dark pink tubes to create a lovely, contrasting effect. After flowering, the pollinated blooms form many seeds that fall to the ground in the fall and winter. These seeds sprout into volunteer seedlings that will flower the following spring. The main plant will enter a winter dormancy, conserving its energy in its roots and crown.
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"My slightly varied version of Gary Rhodes delicious Lamb Shank recipe. Truly mouth-watering moist and tender! I’ve made this a few times now. The first time I made this I used a medium bodied wine and it turned out just as fantastic. If you want to make this exactly like Gary’s then only use 1 carrot, 2 cloves garlic, 1 sprig of rosemary, do all the stovetop and oven cooking in large stew pan or dutch oven, use beef consommé instead of beef stock and the thickening of the red wine sauce is optional. This is a truly wonderful meal and worthy of a dinner party, special occasion or just a romantic meal. I hope you like it as much as we do."
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"Here are the ingredients & the instructions to make the perfect burger! Although it may not be the healthiest, use medium ground beef for moistness & flavour. The leaner varieties produce burgers that are drier with a denser, tighter texture. Don't use previously frozen meat as juices are lost during defrosting. If making ahead, cover with plastic wrap & refrigerate for no more than a day. Enjoy!"
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"This is a very tasty recipe for a more economical cut of lamb. It has a beautiful color when finished and looks attractive to serve. Try a bit of Horseradish with them - excellent flavor combo"
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A one pan dinner! Quick. Fast. And so flavorful. With your veggies right alongside your main for the speediest clean up EVER!!!
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