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- From Garden to Plate: Fresh Flavors, Naturally Grown
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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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Do you know how to harvest lettuce you've grown? Whether it's head or leaf lettuce, we have tips to walk you through harvest time. Lettuce is one of those cool weather plants from which you may collect leaves or harvest whole heads. You can even harvest lettuce as a microgreen! With all the varieties out there, it is easy for a gardener to get confused. We will provide the ultimate guide to how to harvest lettuce greens and tips on how to properly store your lettuce harvest. To learn how to grow lettuce, check out our in-depth article that’s chock-full of gardening tips on how green lettuce grows! Planting your own lettuce is a fun way to start or end the season. They can be grown directly in the soil, in raised beds, or in small spaces like container gardens. To extend your season, consider providing a shade cover as your lettuce grows that can reduce heat exposure and delay bolting. Keep in mind that when you are harvesting, make sure that your tools are clean and sanitized. Scissors, garden shears, a small knife, or grass shears can be used to collect your lettuce and also a basket or container to hold your crop. When you are ready to store, you will want to have paper towels and a plastic storage bag on hand. Now let’s explore a few varieties of lettuce such as microgreens, cos, looseleaf, crisphead, butterhead, and stem lettuce. When Should I Harvest Lettuce? The packets that hold your lettuce seeds will provide an estimation of when to start harvesting. The recommended dates on your lettuce seeds should be used as guidelines in partnership with observation. Young baby salad greens can be harvested by the end of the first month of planting. These baby salad greens are cute, nutritious, and tender. They develop after the microgreen stage and are only a few inches tall. Leaf lettuce and compact heads of lettuce will start to mature 6-10 weeks after sowing in your garden. Harvest leaf lettuce when it’s about 4 inches tall. The outer leaves on compact heads can be collected during the growing season before harvesting the whole head. These individual outer leaves can be ready to collect when they are 4 inches. When the entire plant has reached 6 inches, it is ready for a cut-and-come-again harvest every two weeks or so. By leaving the lettuce crown intact for this method, there is a chance that plants will continue to grow for an additional lettuce harvest. Be sure to provide lots of water for a successful regrowth! If you are cultivating types of lettuce such as romaine, crisphead, or butterhead, you are looking for leaves to be 8 inches. Squeeze the head to check for firmness, the leaves should be compact and plump. Many types of lettuce prefer cool weather and do not do well in hot weather. When daytime temperatures reach above 80 degrees, the lettuce will start bolting and a flower stalk will emerge. You will want to harvest your lettuce immediately if this happens. The leaves can turn bitter in taste, but a few bitter leaves can be hidden in a larger salad. Or you can let the lettuce go to seed and reseed itself in your garden. When you grow lettuce, the best time of day to harvest lettuce is in the cool and early morning. The leaves will be fresh and crisp when the weather is cool! If harvested later in the day, your lettuce may be soft and wilted from sun exposure. Lettuce grows best when the temperatures are cooler, and is less susceptible to bolting then too. Harvesting Lettuce By Type There are many types of lettuce you may be gardening, such as the black seeded Simpson that is valued for its green loose leaves or headed lettuce like romaine to add a bit of crunch and texture to your salad. Some of these varieties do well in a strategic trimming of the leaves or harvesting the plant above its crown and they will continue growing. Another method of harvesting lettuce is to remove entire plants by digging them up from the soil. Lettuce Microgreens Harvesting microgreens is super easy! They will be ready 10-15 days after planting the seeds when the first true leaves have emerged. If you are gauging by height, harvest the microgreens when they are 2-3 inches. It’s fun to explore the flavor profiles of the microgreens at different heights. Use a pair of scissors or grass shears and cut the entire plant ½ inch above the soil line. We have many other cool gardening tips on growing microgreens including lettuce microgreens if you need inspiration! Cos Lettuce Cos or romaine lettuce has a desired crisp or crunch factor to its leaves. As it develops, the outer leaves of the lettuce plant can be harvested. You can cut off the leaves 1-2 inches above the soil. By harvesting these young green leaves, there is more time for the lettuce to mature for the ability to harvest entire plants. Romaine lettuce can take 55-70 days to grow from seed before it is mature. Check the lettuce itself to confirm when it is ripe. Romaine is prepared for harvest when the lettuce leaves are 6-8 inches tall, the ribs of the lettuce are firm and juicy, and the leaves have formed a tightly-compacted head. Squeeze the lettuce head to check for firmness. Young head lettuce will be soft and overripe head lettuce will be hard. To harvest, cut 1 inch above the soil, preserving the crown for a second harvest. If its garden lifespan is close to an end, you can dig up the entire plant to harvest the lettuce head. Loose Leaf Lettuce There is a wide harvest window for leaf lettuce varieties. The young baby lettuce leaves can be picked for harvest 25 days after planting and the plant will reach full maturity in 50-60 days. Be sure to harvest your crop before it bolts. Loose-leaf lettuce is great for repeated harvests, as you get multiple harvests during the season. Once the leaves are 4”, you can cut the entire lettuce 1-2” above the soil line. If the crown is left intact, new leaves will sprout from the base and can be ready to harvest again in 10-15 days. To have a continual harvest throughout the season, try multiple seed sowings and staggering the sowings. Resowing is recommended if you desire the fresh taste of the young baby greens. There is another harvesting approach: trimming young leaves on the outside of the head for greens while allowing for the inner leaves to grow. You can start harvesting lettuce from these plants when they are 4 inches by snipping them above the soil line. Crisphead Lettuce Crisphead or iceberg lettuce is absolutely delicious as homegrown salad greens. This can be a cut-and-come-again harvest but you might not get a full head of lettuce. This green lettuce is more suited for a single harvest. The harvest window is around 50-75 days after planting. Iceberg lettuce can be prepared for harvest as soon as the head develops, the center feels firm with leaves tightly compacted, and before the exterior leaves turn brown. Harvest before the crisp lettuce begins to open and the seed stalk begins forming. More importantly, harvest immediately if you notice the seed stalk or the lettuce starting to bolt, a common problem in hot weather. The best way to harvest iceberg lettuce is to dig up the entire plant and then trim the stalk off. This lettuce plant has a thick stem and it can be difficult to harvest while it is still in the ground. Please be careful to not damage the lettuce head if you choose to harvest it while it’s in-ground. You can lift the lettuce upwards and cut the stem right below the leaves. Butterhead Lettuce Butterhead lettuce is a savory and delicate salad green. It is ready to harvest as early as 45 days after seeding, with the final harvest no later than 75 days after sowing. This lettuce has its best flavor before it is fully mature. Baby butterhead lettuce can be harvested early in the season. You can routinely trim the young leaves, use a cut-and-come-again method, or thin out the garden bed by removing some of the young plants. You are ready to harvest the whole heads of lettuce when it begins to feel firm and the leaves are 8-15 inches. There are a few methods to remove the full head of lettuce from the garden, such as cutting the stalk below the head of lettuce, or digging up the plant and cutting off the stalk. If you harvest and leave the base of the plant or stalk, lettuce may regrow and produce more leafy green goodness. Stem Lettuce Stem or celtuce lettuce is different from the other lettuce mentioned above because it is appreciated for its stem. The leaves can be collected throughout the growing season yet the flavor may start to turn bitter as it matures. Celtuce lettuce is ready for harvest when the diameter of the stalk is 1 inch and it is 8-14 inches. Cut the stalk at the base of the plant, right above the soil line. Or you can remove the entire plant by digging it up and trimming the base and roots off. The leaves will also need to be trimmed off before storing. How To Store Fresh Lettuce First a few tips on properly storing lettuce. Placement in the fridge is key, most like to put their lettuce in the crisper drawer. Avoid placing it towards the back of the fridge, which may accidentally frost your crop. If the lettuce is placed next to apples, bananas, or pears, these fruits can increase rates of decomposition and your harvest may wither quickly. Lastly, you can refresh wilted lettuce by placing it in an ice bath for 15 minutes before consuming it. Tender greens like microgreens, loose-leaf lettuce, and trimmed lettuce leaves wilt fast and are best enjoyed within 3 days of harvesting. First, wash any dirt or debris from these salad greens, then let dry on a dish towel or pat dry. Store them in the fridge in a plastic bag or container, packed in some dry paper towels (I like to use brown coffee filters) which will absorb any excess moisture and keep the lettuce from getting soggy and decaying. To extend the shelf life of your harvest, continue to check and replace the paper towels when they are saturated. Head lettuce like cos, iceberg, and butterhead can be stored directly in the fridge without washing and can last 1-2 weeks. First, remove any dirty or damaged leaves. Wrap the head of lettuce in paper towels or dish towels and place it in a plastic storage bag or bin. Just as with the lettuce leaves, you can extend the shelf life of your lettuce by replacing the paper towels when they get wet. When you are ready to consume, then you can thoroughly wash the head of lettuce. With stem lettuce, make sure to remove the leaves from the stem. Wash, dry, and store in the fridge in a plastic bag. They are best fresh but can last up to 1-2 weeks in the fridge.
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Did you know that growing potatoes in a bucket was an option? This may be the very trick you need for great potato harvests! We reveal how. Potatoes are a huge staple crop of many different cultures and peoples. People have grown potatoes for centuries all over the world. There are at least one hundred varieties of seed potatoes and many different ways to eat them. Better yet, there are many ways to grow them, and among those is the topic of the day: growing potatoes in a bucket! Store-bought potatoes are cheap and plentiful, but they may contain some trace amounts of pesticides. New potatoes are the most at risk for this because they’re harvested closer to the time pesticides are applied. This is just one reason many people decide to grow their own potatoes. ‘Yukon Gold’ and ‘Pontiac Red’ are varieties you can easily find at the grocery store. Sprouted potatoes left in the bag might be too old to eat, but they’re easy to propagate. If you start with these, it’s virtually free to grow spuds. Some don’t have space outdoors or the tools needed to grow potatoes. Novice gardeners may be deterred by the care potatoes take to grow, but it’s not as hard as it may look. Thankfully for them, potatoes live well in containers, grow bags (like Root Pouch grow bags), pots, buckets, or in the ground. If you’re interested in growing potatoes, but you’re not sure if it’s right for you, cultivating potatoes in a 5-gallon bucket is a great way to experiment. This method doesn’t require a lot of prior gardening knowledge, nor does it require a lot of effort. As long as your soil is amended with compost, you’re good. In buckets, you can grow potatoes in a multitude of settings.
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Are you looking for a highly ornamental tree for a wetland edge, pond border, or rain garden? Weeping willows are large, graceful trees that command plenty of attention. In this article, gardening enthusiast Liessa Bowen introduces the weeping willow, and how to grow and maintain these elegant trees. When I think of a weeping willow tree, I conjure images of a large tree with gracefully swaying branches growing at the edge of a scenic lake or pond. The branches flow downwards like a cascading waterfall, nearly touching the water’s surface below. The willow tree stands alone and majestic, reflected in the still water, its leaves either at their vibrant green peak or perhaps golden yellow with showy autumn hues. Weeping willow trees have been used for centuries as a highlight in ornamental landscapes. Growing one at the water’s edge makes sense since these trees are thirsty and crave moist soil and plenty of sunlight. However, you won’t be able to—or even want to —grow this species just anywhere. If you hope to incorporate a weeping willow into your yard, take into account their specific needs and requirements to determine if this tree is right for you. There are approximately 350 species of willow trees and shrubs (genus Salix) within the willow family (Salicaceae), along with dozens of related hybrids and cultivars. Various species are native to Asia, Europe, Africa, and North and South America. The weeping willow originated in Asia and is now a widespread horticultural favorite. If you’re hoping to make a bold statement along the edge of your lake, pond, wetland, or rain garden, let’s take a closer look at the benefits and challenges of growing a weeping willow, and how to help your tree thrive and look its best. Weeping willow trees originated in China. People noticed and appreciated their natural beauty and started to cultivate them. They quickly spread to other Asian countries, Europe, the Middle East, and North America. Many species have naturalized in many states and can be found growing in riparian areas in the southeastern United States and also in California. These are fast-growing trees that reach 60 to 80 feet tall in optimal conditions. For a tree, they have a relatively short lifespan, living anywhere from 50 to 75 years. They have relatively weak wood that’s susceptible to breakage, particularly under the strains of snow, ice, or heavy storms. These trees are still important and valuable wetland trees in their natural habitat, providing shade, shelter, and foraging opportunities for a variety of birds, insects, mammals, and other animals. The weeping willow is a deciduous tree with great ornamental value. They develop a distinct form. The broad trunk develops several low-growing horizontal branches with uniquely weeping elongated leaf-lined stems. The rough, light gray bark is thick and heavily ridged. Each of the long, thin, weeping branches is lined with alternate leaves. The simple, lanceolate leaves are between three and six inches long and less than one inch wide. During the growing season, the leaves stay uniformly green and then become golden yellow in the autumn for some showy fall color. The trees blooms in early to mid-spring. These plants are dioecious with male and female flowers on separate trees. The flowers are called catkins. Catkins are elongated, pale greenish-yellow, and not especially showy, although they do attract some pollinators. Each catkin measures one to two inches long. After flowering, tiny seed capsules develop, full of fluffy, white, cottony seeds. These trees have long been cultivated and now include many unique varieties, including dwarf stature, golden yellow leaves, and corkscrew-shaped branches. Weeping willows generally have a rounded form, although the cultivars and other Salix species may be more spreading or vase-shaped. Weeping willow is surprisingly easy to propagate by cuttings. You could take a cutting at any time of year, but late winter is ideal for a very high chance of success. Select a healthy branch between one and two inches across and no more than six feet long. Cut the branch with a sharp pruning tool large enough to handle a branch cutting. Decide where you want to plant the cutting so it can grow into a large new tree. Prepare the site by removing competing vegetation and loosening the soil. Prepare a hole approximately eight to 10 inches deep and place the cutting in the hole. Push the soil against the cutting so the ground around the cutting holds it securely in place. Water the area well and keep it moist until the cutting begins to develop fresh new leaves. This will be the first indication that your cutting is a success. Keep the weeds away as your new tree begins to grow. These are fast-growing trees, and your cutting will soon begin to grow vigorously. Within a few years, it will transform from a branch cutting into an elegant young tree.
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When winter rolls around and leaves are long gone from the trees, many wildlife have difficulty finding enough food. Fortunately, many trees continue to feed birds and mammals throughout the winter. In this article, gardener Briana Yablonski shares multiple types of trees you can plant to support wildlife. American Persimmon Often found in mixed hardwood plantings, neighborhoods, and parks, the American persimmon is the native cousin of the frequently cultivated Asian persimmon. The fruits of the American species are much smaller than those produced by the Asian cultivars, but they have a similar flavor and texture. When the fruits are unripe, they have an unpleasant, astringent flavor. When they ripen, they drop from the tree and cover the ground with a layer of sugary goo. Critters of all kinds enjoy the sweet flesh in the late fall and winter. They can grow up to eighty feet, but they have a slow growth rate. You can identify the persimmons by their blocky gray bark. American Crabapple While crabapples are often the last choice when humans are choosing apples to eat, turkeys, raccoons, deer, and other critters love munching on the small, tart fruits. The apples mature in the fall, but ripe fruits often remain on the ground throughout the winter. The crabapple tree’s small size makes it an excellent choice for yards and areas with limited space. Since they grow in an attractive upright form and have beautiful springtime flowers, they fit in well with residential landscaping while also benefiting wildlife. However, you should be aware the fruits often fall from them and can make a mess if left uneaten. White Oak As ecologist and entomologist Doug Tallamy points out, oaks are crucial for supporting insects and, therefore, birds. That’s because they serve as host plants for more than 500 species of moths and butterflies during the growing season. White oaks continue to feed wildlife in the fall thanks to their calorie-rich acorns. Around 150 species of animals consume the nuts, including raccoons, nuthatches, deer, bluejays, and foxes. These critters will eat many types of acorns, but nuts from white oaks tend to be some of their favorites. Since this species is native to much of the eastern US, it’s a great choice in this region. They can grow well in various habitats as long as the soil is well-draining. Just be aware that they are slow-growing, like most oaks. Fireberry Hawthorn This hawthorn species grows in much of North America, including the Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and Rocky Mountain West. The plants grow as large shrubs or small trees in open clearings, forest edges, and other environments. These are members of the rose family and produce small fruits known as haws. The haws of fireberry hawthorn are bright red when ripe and appear in clusters. The fruit typically ripens in the beginning to middle of fall and feeds wildlife including birds and small mammals. Pin Oak If you want to enjoy the benefits of oaks but want a smaller plant than a white or red oak, the pin oak is one good option. These still produce an upright shape, but they typically max out at around 70 feet tall. The plants have a unique branching pattern that many people find beautiful. They grow best in moist yet well-draining soil but can adapt to dry locations. Pin oaks are popular choices for landscape plantings due to their tolerance of transplanting and relatively quick growth rate. The trees grow about two feet per year, making them one of the fastest-growing oak species. Plus, they’re native to much of the eastern United States. Along with supporting many species of caterpillars, pin oaks also produce acorns that birds and mammals love. Animals often stockpile the nuts and continue to feed on them throughout the winter. Just be aware that pin oaks won’t produce acorns until they’re at least 15 years old. River Birch Many gardeners know the river birch for its beautiful peeling bark and slender branches covered with green leaves. It’s known as the only birch species that grows well in low-lying elevations in southern states. However, I’ve found that fewer plant lovers are aware of the tree’s ability to provide for wildlife. They provide year-round cover for wildlife, especially birds that frequent the lakes and rivers these trees often grow beside. The small seeds that appear on the tree’s female catkins also provide food for birds including grouse, sparrows, and chickadees. Songbirds and small mammals often eat the seedless male catkins in the winter. If you want to plant a river birch, note that they prefer moist soil. Although they can tolerate some heat, they typically don’t fare well in hot, dry conditions. However, the cultivar ‘Dura Heat’ was bred to better resist heat and drought. American Holly Although you may think of holly as a small to medium shrub, American holly plants can grow into large specimens. The plants have smooth, gray bark and thick, evergreen leaves with spiked tips. The trees produce red berries in the fall. Since the berries don’t fall from them once they’re ripe, they remain on the plants into the winter. Birds including cedar waxwings, American robins, and quail eat the berries. However, humans should avoid consuming the toxic fruits. American holly can grow in pretty much any type of light, but they often remain smaller when grown in full shade. Trees that receive more light will also produce more berries. The plants are native to much of the eastern central United States, so they’re natural choices for these areas. Black Cherry There are many different types of cherry trees native to the United States, and all of them provide small fruits that appeal to wildlife, ranging from songbirds to bears. The black cherry is native to much of the eastern half of the United States as well as portions of the southwest. It’s the largest native cherry, so it produces more fruit than smaller cherry species. In the spring, they produce elongated clusters of small white flowers. The flowers give way to small red fruits that turn black by late summer or early fall. They often remain around throughout the fall. Not only do black cherry trees provide fruits in the colder months, but their foliage also supports hundreds of insects that feed birds. Mammals also browse on tender twigs and stems. Scarlet Hawthorn If you want a smaller tree that produces fruits in the fall, scarlet hawthorn is one good option. They only grow up to 25 feet tall and work well in small yards and residential areas. However, be aware that the stems sport long thorns, and the springtime flowers have an unpleasant fragrance. Scarlet hawthorn is native to much of the eastern US, where it grows in numerous types of well-draining soil. They produce small fruits that ripen to deep red in the early fall. The fruits remain on the trees into the early winter and are consumed by birds. Eastern Red Cedar When you think of cedar trees, their scale-like evergreen foliage probably comes to mind. However, the plants also produce small blue structures known as juniper berries. These aren’t true berries but rather female cones. Both birds and mammals feed on the cones throughout the fall and winter. Eastern red cedar grow best in full sun, so it’s best to plant them in an open area rather than near other trees. They can tolerate a variety of soil types but don’t grow well in constantly moist soil. Smooth Sumac Although some people consider it a weedy tree, smooth sumac plays an important role in the ecosystem. It thrives in disturbed areas and poor soils where other trees and shrubs struggle, making it an important part of erosion control. Since the trees grow from suckers, they can form large colonies and survive drought, fire, and other environmental challenges. Smooth sumac grows as a small tree or large shrub with compound leaves containing large, slender leaflets. In the fall, the leaves turn bright crimson. Flower clusters appear on the tops of the trees in the summer and turn to conical clusters of red rupes in the fall. The fruit clusters remain on the plants throughout the fall and into the winter. Grouse, squirrels, chickadees, rabbis, quail, nuthatches, and other critters eat the fruits.
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