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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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Palm trees add tropical energy to your space, and potting them makes them great for anyone, including those living in cold climates. Florida gardener Melissa Strauss talks about how and when to fertilize them to keep those vacation vibes strong. There’s no denying that palm trees make popular potted plants. These large tropical plants can transport us to an island paradise without leaving the house. There are many beautiful types of palms that thrive in containers and make nice patio or houseplants. Palms are typically considered to be heavy feeders. They need a steady and substantial supply of nutrients available for their use, especially during their growing season. Potted plants typically require more fertilizing than their grounded counterparts. It stands to reason, as there is less substance to hold those nutrients. If you want a strong, beautiful, healthy tree, it’s important to provide the necessary nutrients. This can be a challenge with the type of soil these plants prefer and the small amount of nutrients it can hold. Let’s talk about the different factors that will make fertilizing your potted palms a seamless and successful process. While all palms need roughly the same composition and amount of fertilizer, it’s always good to know what type you have. Once you know the species, discover the native habitat of your tree and what type of environment it naturally grows in. I like to do this with every plant, as it gives me a better idea of what temperatures it thrives in. It will help you to understand other aspects of care, such as soil type, nutrient needs, and humidity requirements. While this information won’t make a great difference in how much and with what you’ll want to fertilize, it’s still helpful to know. Having your plant in the right potting mix and environment will all contribute to its overall health. Providing your palm with the right soil type and container will go a long way toward keeping it happy. These plants have thin, fibrous roots rather than central tap roots. The root system is dense and spreads out horizontally rather than running deep into the soil. So, how does this influence soil and container type? First, you’re better off with a container that is wider than it is deep. This accommodates the root system, which naturally wants to spread out wider to support the weight of the tree. Choose a container that is wider than the root ball. In terms of soil, a sandy loam is ideal for most. Those fine, fibrous roots are sensitive to wet soil, so the potting mix needs excellent drainage. Mixing some large particles into the mix is another helpful thing to do. Your soil should be loose so that those delicate roots can easily expand through it. Still, it’s best to know what type of soil is needed for the type of palm you have. Palms planted outdoors and in the ground need fertilizing about three times per year. Once in the spring, once in the summer, and again in the fall. Because of the limited amount of nutrients a potted plant has access to, it’s important to fertilize more frequently. Your palm will enter a growth phase in the spring, which is when it’s important to begin. Fertilize every two to four weeks in the spring and summer. If you use a slow-release formula, once every two to three months should provide all it needs. If not, once or twice monthly should be adequate. In the fall, fall back a bit, but don’t stop completely. You can reduce it to once a month with a regular formula. A single application of slow release in the fall should be just right. Stop applying in the winter, as the tree needs a dormant period to rest when daylight hours decrease. When your plant is dormant, it cannot absorb the same amount of water or nutrients, so you should reduce both to avoid root damage. Indoor palm tree fertilizers are not difficult to find if you want to purchase a formula created specifically for these plants. If you want a more all-purpose formula, look for one with higher nitrogen and potassium. Those are the first and last numbers in the N-P-K formula. A ratio of 12-4-12 or 8-2-12 is a good place to start. Make sure that you choose a fertilizer with important micronutrients, as well. Palms need plenty of iron, copper, manganese, zinc, and boron to stay healthy. Whether you choose a liquid soluble or slow-release is a matter of personal preference; they are both effective. Water your plant before and after fertilizing. Fertilizing already moistened soil helps to prevent fertilizer burn. It also helps the plant to absorb those important nutrients, rather that having them sit solely in the soil. Giving too many nutrients while a plant is dormant can have the same effect as giving too much during a growth period. Because the plant can’t absorb and utilize all the nutrients you’ve given it, it sits on the outside of the roots. During dormancy, your plants take in less of all resources. The daylight hours decrease, which signals dormancy. Then, all systems slow down. Water and nutrients follow, becoming less important. Watering too much during this time can invite fungi that cause root rot. Fertilizing during this time is likely to cause root damage as well, and ultimately the rest of the plant can suffer. Because they are heavy feeders, it’s easy to overfertilize your palms. This seems counterintuitive, but it means that you’ll be giving nutrients more frequently, so there is a better chance of overdoing it. Fertilizer burn is what happens when a plant receives more nutrients than it can absorb. Fertilizer burn will often manifest as damage to the newest fronds of your palm. The newest spear or the youngest leaves are the first to suffer. Using the correct type of fertilizer and following the directions can help you avoid this issue. If you see the effects of too much fertilizer burning the tips of leaves, don’t despair. Flush your soil and the roots with fresh, clean water. Then, hold off on your next scheduled dose. Giving too many nutrients while a plant is dormant can have the same effect as giving too much during a growth period. Because the plant can’t absorb and utilize all the nutrients you’ve given it, it sits on the outside of the roots. During dormancy, your plants take in less of all resources. The daylight hours decrease, which signals dormancy. Then, all systems slow down. Water and nutrients follow, becoming less important. Watering too much during this time can invite fungi that cause root rot. Fertilizing during this time is likely to cause root damage as well, and ultimately the rest of the plant can suffer. Just as too much fertilizer can cause issues, so too can a shortage. I mentioned that these plants need a significant amount of nutrients, macro and micro. When one of these things is out of balance, you may see signs pop up. It’s good to be able to recognize and diagnose these issues. Potassium deficiency is the most common in palms. If you notice spots on the fronds that are yellow and begin to thin out, becoming translucent, it’s probably this issue. Eventually, those leaf tips will turn brown. More damage, such as necrosis, will show on the ends of the fronds and less at the base. A boron deficiency may show up as stunted or damaged new growth. If you notice the ellowing of older fronds, it’s probably a magnesium deficiency. If the issue is a lack of manganese, the new growth may unfurl with a frizzled appearance. This is a deadly deficiency for palms, and it’s typically the result of soil that is too alkaline. Alkaline soil prevents certain nutrients from breaking down and becoming available to the plant. Potting mixes typically have a low enough pH to avoid most of these issues, but over time, that can change. If you have a palm that has been in the same soil for an extended time, re-potting along with a regular fertilizer schedule should help to correct most nutrient issues.
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Do you have a cedar tree in your yard, but aren't quite sure what to plant underneath it? Certain plants will grow much better underneath cedar trees, but how do you know which ones to pick? Cedar trees are a favorite landscaping tree for many people all over the world. But finding the perfect plant to grow underneath them can be a bit of a challenge because of their structure, and root system. Adding plants under any tree is a common technique for integrating that tree into a landscape and avoiding empty space. You can also create an interesting layering effect by adding a mix of ground cover and shrubs. However, there are some important considerations when choosing these plants, especially for cedars. The wrong plants could harm nearby trees or not do well if they have to compete with the tree’s root system for water and nutrients. Read on to learn more about cedar trees and which plants do well underneath them.Cedar trees belong to the Pinaceae family. They’re native to the Himalayas and the countries that border the Mediterranean Sea. These evergreen trees are incredibly resilient. They don’t need a lot of water and thrive in slightly acidic soil with no fertilizer. The only maintenance they require is the occasional mulching and some light pruning. You’ll also have to water regularly when you first plant a cedar tree, but adult trees only need rainwater. Cedars need plenty of sun. They grow rapidly and do well in Zones 7 through 9A, but it’s a very versatile tree that can adapt to different conditions. There are a few diseases to watch out for, including cedar-apple rust, a type of fungal disease that affects cedar trees and apple trees. Port-oxford-cedar root disease is a condition that can spread through soil movement. Besides improving the aesthetics of your yard, plants that grow underneath your cedar tree can help loosen the soil and help the tree’s root system absorb more oxygen and nutrients. Another benefit is that plants will absorb excess water and help create ideal conditions for the cedar, especially if you live in an area with heavy precipitations. If water accumulates at the base of a tree, it can make the soil too compact and make it difficult for the roots to grow.Some plants do well under cedars and others don’t. Cedars thrive in soil that is slightly acidic, but they can grow in soil with a pH of anywhere from 5.5 to 7.2, so don’t assume your garden soil is necessarily acidic if you have a cedar tree. It’s best to test the soil before selecting plants that will go underneath the tree, to figure out whether you should select species that do well in acidic soil or not. Shade can be a challenge. Cedars are evergreens with dense foliage. Cedars can provide similar challenges to growing under other shade trees like oaks. Depending on the cedar variety, they can cast a big area of shade, making planting underneath them a challenge. The dripline can be another issue. Because of the dense foliage, water will drip where it ends and create a zone that could get saturated with water. The root system can vary from one type of cedar tree to another, but lots of trees in that family have shallow and fibrous roots. Limiting the number of plants you add around the tree is important so the tree can still get the water and nutrients it needs from the soil.
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I bet you’re working on your fall to-do list, and I’m right there with you. But pruning your trees is something you should leave off that list until late winter. Join organic farmer Jenna Rich as she discusses five reasons you should never prune your trees in the fall. Fall is a time for gardeners to clean up their garden beds, sharpen and clean tools, organize sheds and greenhouses, and tidy up so they’re ready for spring chores. It might seem like a great time to prune your trees to get that off your to-do list, but doing so may undo much of the hard work you’ve done leading up to the fall to ensure your trees stay healthy and strong. When adding trees to your lineup, ensure they are compatible with your growing zone. Doing so will set them up for success and make caring for them more enjoyable. A tree out of its element and experiencing high stress levels won’t thrive, so checking that your region aligns with its needs will yield the best results. If you’re like me, your fall and winter checklists are in full effect. When all the items are checked off, I have peace of mind, which allows me to enjoy my winters and feel prepared for spring. Let’s discuss five reasons you should never prune your trees in the fall. Your Tree is Busy Preparing For Winter Humans greatly enjoy watching the transition of summer greens to autumnal oranges, yellows, and reds, so it’s hard for us to understand just how hard the trees are working internally. It’s a significant endeavor that takes lots of energy. Think of everything you do around your home and property as the seasons change to refresh, prepare, and unload for the upcoming season. Trees and perennial plants are doing something similar internally in preparation for the change of seasons. Imagine someone asking you to give a speech just as you fall asleep for the night. It probably wouldn’t be great, right? As their colors change and leaves drop, the trees’ energy shifts into their own fall chores, including sugar concentration, intentional dehydration, and cellular shrinkage. As they adjust to shorter days, colder temperatures, and less water, they slow their processes down to prepare for dormancy. Concentrated sugars serve as a natural anti-freeze, which helps them tolerate freezing temperatures, reduces the risk of them exploding from being too cold, and provides energy in the winter months. Cells shrink and harden, preventing damage from freezing temperatures and harsh winds. Surviving the winter in some regions is an impressive feat, so it takes a lot of preparation. Note that some species produce buds in the summer months that will overwinter just fine. Pruning too early may remove these, giving you a less-than-spectacular show in the spring. They Need To Focus Energy on Their Roots We often discuss the need for a robust root system, which anchors plants to the ground, helps prevent topsoil and nutrient loss, and ensures proper growth and immunity response. When we prune during the fall transition period, we force energy into the wounded areas rather than allowing the tree to focus on its root system. This can be detrimental to the tree’s health and longevity. Instead, take advantage of the cooler working temperatures. Soil temps will remain warm, encouraging roots to expand and stretch deeper into the soil, well out of eyes’ reach. Once trees lose their leaves, they can hone in on underground activity. When they wake in the spring, deep, strong roots mean a healthy start to the season! Damage From Fresh Wounds Imagine having a large, fresh cut on your arm and heading outside into the wind and cold weather without any covering. You can imagine the pain you might feel when the air hits the open wound. Trees may not “feel” the same way we do, but wounds, even from necessary pruning, are still wounds and should be treated as such. Remember also that several types of beetles are still active in the fall, and wounds may exacerbate their damage. The best time to prune is during dormancy when less activity is happening inside the tree, and the risk of disease spread is significantly reduced. Winter pruning encourages new spring growth. Wounds made over winter will heal more quickly during the spring months. Note: Spring flowering plants like azaleas should not be pruned until after they flower. Pruning in the winter removes fresh buds, so you’ll be without spring blooms. While it was once commonplace to see tree wounds closed up with white paint, updated research tells us to leave them be and let them complete their natural immunity response for best results. According to the University of Illinois Extension, trees will respond to a wound with wound tissue, which will seal the pruning cut. Sealing it up with paint is detrimental since oxygen is required for this process to occur. Healthy specimens are more likely to ward off future attacks, so it’s our job to keep them as healthy as possible. Wet Conditions Promote Disease Spread Many fungal and bacterial pathogens thrive in fall’s wet, cool conditions. In many regions, fall brings cool, damp weather, wreaking havoc on freshly pruned trees and shrubs. These pathogens can easily creep into the open wounds when humidity levels are high. Oak wilt, Nectria canker, Dutch elm disease, bacterial canker, fire blight, apple scab, peach scab, and blossom wilt are just a few diseases to watch out for in the fall. Proper pruning, copper sprays, and immediate removal of infected tree parts work to control some of these, but oak wilt and bacterial canker have no known proven home gardener treatments. Trust your sources when bringing new trees to your property. Select disease-resistant varieties and grafts when available. Contact your local experts if you’re unsure what’s happening with your orchard. Swift action is always best! Keep your eyes peeled for elm leaf beetles (Xanthogaleruca luteola). These pests chew holes in leaves and may hibernate in the surrounding areas, ready to cause more trouble in future years. Unfortunately, this pest has few natural enemies, so prevention or chemical control are the only options. You Don’t Want To Encourage New Growth Before Winter New growth is green and vulnerable. Promoting new growth before winter exposes it to extreme conditions it’s not ready for. As mentioned, fall offers the perfect conditions for plants to focus on their root system. Leaving them be for a few months allows them to do naturally what they know to do. Let the tree close up shop for the year (and you do the same) and encourage new spring growth during winter pruning sessions. Waiting until the trees are bare of leaves allows you to see the shape more clearly and create an efficient pruning plan. You can see overlapping and twisted branches, growth outside the desired canopy shape, and dead or diseased limbs. Exceptions To The Rule Light pruning may be recommended if your tree shows signs of disease or has lower branches near or touching the ground. Contact a local arborist or tree specialist at your local extension office for necessary assistance. A Note About Conifers Spruce and pines retain their needles all year and don’t enter full dormancy like deciduous species. Pine needles retain more moisture and allow them to convert sunlight into chlorophyll all year, which is why they are sometimes called evergreens. While they don’t entirely go dormant, their bark and branches offer insulation and protection from the cold, so they should be pruned in spring like deciduous trees for best results. What To Do In The Fall Instead Clean up garden debris Determine your mulching plan Amend your soil so it’s ready for spring Cover crop to suppress weeds and reduce soil erosion Be patient until your trees are in dormancy to perform pruning Are you stuck on which trees to choose? Consider low-maintenance trees like winterberry holly, witch hazel, and serviceberry, which will still provide shade, beauty, pollinator attraction, and height.
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A bounty of produce can be had if you start growing butternut squash! Our in-depth guide reveals everything you need for great harvests.Nothing quite signals the arrival of autumn as a steaming bowl of butternut squash soup. A type of winter squash, it grows during the spring and summer but will last well into winter on a pantry shelf. Butternut squash can be made into any number of dishes, from being roasted and added to tacos to pureed and made into pie. For any gardener or home cook growing butternut squash, patience is key. Like all squashes, butternuts are native to the Americas and have a long history there. Butternut squash is a modern variety of winter squash, as squashes have been cross-pollinating and creating new varieties for millennia! Today’s butternut squash was developed by Charles Legget of Stow, Massachusetts in 1944. Since then, even more variations have been grown from this one type, including miniature versions such as the Honeynut squash and Butterbaby. Squash plants produce incredibly nutritious fruits, and butternut squashes are full of vitamins A, B6, C & E while low in calories. The seeds, when eaten, are even thought to be useful in calming the nerves. With a wide range of uses, and a long storage time, you’ll find many gardeners and homesteaders treat this as a staple in their pantry.
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Crisp-tender Parmesan fries, baked to absolute perfection. Except these are actually healthy, and completely addicting!
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These delicious rolls resemble Chicken Enchiladas. A great brunch, lunch or dinner recipe.
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Swap out the lasagna noodles for zucchini. It’s LOW CARB & so much healthier! You won’t miss the noodles at all!
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"Satisfy your craving for something different tonight. It's good and fairly easy. This is stuff I usually have on hand too."
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