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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
gardening experts
Learning how to grow peas is one of the best things you can do. These versatile, delicious veggies are huge producers and extremely healthy. Have you ever wondered how to grow peas? Green peas are one of those tastes that embody spring: bright green, crisp and sweet. Knowing how to grow peas in the vegetable garden gives us a never ending supply, and everyone should devote some garden space to this cool-season crop. But peas have an interesting history, too! Before humans developed agriculture, sweet peas were an abundant crop and a staple food that hunter-gatherer peoples would forage regularly. Interestingly, the Romans believed that freshly picked peas were poisonous, so they dried all peas before consumption. This was the common practice until a French gardener under the reign of King Louis XIV developed a pea hybrid called petits pois. These smaller, delicious fresh peas exploded in popularity with the king and thus spread to worldwide appeal. Now people all over grow peas. While we think of peas as a vegetable nowadays, the pod is biologically considered a fruit, and the sweet-tasting peas are seeds. All peas are considered part of the legume family, along with beans and other podded produce. Let’s dive into the world of growing Pisum sativum, the pea plant. We’ll go over how to grow peas, what environments are optimal, and even how to store them for eating later! Planting Peas Peas are a cool-season crop. Most people plant peas in the early spring as soon as the soil is workable, as they can tolerate light frosts. Plant six weeks before the last frost date if the ground is warm year-round. Planting peas in fall is also an option. Plant 8-10 weeks before the first frost for best growth and the largest fall harvest. In California or the gulf states, many people grow peas from seed all winter and early spring. Cooler temperatures are preferred by the plants. Gardeners in the south typically sow peas as a mid or late fall crop. The seeds go dormant throughout the winter and sprout as soon as possible in the spring. This ensures an early spring harvest. Unlike many other plant types, plant your entire cool-season crop of peas at once, whether early-season or late-season plants. This gives your plants the maximum time to produce before it becomes too warm or too cold. Planting peas like this ensures you’ll have an abundant crop with a steady harvest over a few weeks rather than a large crop all at once. As peas are tolerant of partially-shaded conditions, plant your peas in beds that receive anywhere between 4-8 hours of sun or a mix of dappled shade and sun. This means that peas can go in areas that other vegetables can’t! When choosing how to grow peas, they can be planted nearly anywhere if you’re planting self-supporting or dwarf varieties. However, vining varieties need to be trellised or staked to offer support as they grow. Larger pea plants require more support. If you’re planting a variety that is anticipated to reach 5-6’ in height, have your trellis in place when you plant so that the peas can climb. Avoid planting in areas with high winds, as pea vines are sensitive and can be damaged if blown off their supports.
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Thinking of adding some blue flax flowers to your garden? Blue Flax, also known as Linum Perenne, can be useful for a variety of different purposes.When one thinks of flax plants, commercial flax fields typically come to mind. While its hold in the commercial world has somewhat died down, other plants in the flax genus have found their way into home gardens. With striking flowers and strong but delicate-looking stems, it’s easy to understand why they have become increasingly popular. The flowers only last a day, but the plants bloom throughout the flowering season. Plants in the flax genus (Linum) offer slightly different characteristics that suit many gardeners’ needs. Most have blue flowers that are beautiful in color, with the most common ornamental type being Linum Perenne, commonly called Blue Flax or perennial flax. Other varieties sport violet, white, and even deep red flowers, allowing gardeners to explore different color options best suited to their style. Part of this plant’s allure is its easy-going nature. Flax prefers plenty of light, but it can tolerate some shade. Other than that, it needs little water and the occasional pruning for aesthetic appeal. Its self-seeding nature allows it to return each year with its fleeting blooms. Perennial flax suits seasoned green thumbs, laid-back gardeners, and newbies alike. Its small blooms add a touch of wildflower paradise whether planted in masses or small groups. Flax has a long recorded history, specifically in the textile industry. This European native has been used to make linen and rope for more than 30,000 years. It was first domesticated about 9,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent region of the Middle East. 5,000 years ago, the use of this plant spread to Germany, Switzerland, and Asia. Flax was extensively cultivated in ancient Egypt, where it was used to make linen for priests and to embalm mummies. As a symbol of purity in ancient culture, it was also commonly painted on temple walls. Trade of flax linen continued throughout the ages, eventually making its way to Rome. There, it was primarily used for Roman ship sails. The later decline of the Roman empire also meant the decline of flax production. However, flax’s importance made a resurgence in the new millennium when the health of linseed oil came to light, along with the hygiene of flax linen. Flax eventually made its way to North America through colonial trade routes. As a crop, flax flourished, until the rise of cotton in the early 20th century. The use of flax as a commercial crop has since declined due to the production of synthetic fibers. Recently, there has been a steady increase in the uses and needs of flax due to an increase in demand for natural fibers. Flaxseed health benefits, thanks to their high levels of omega-3 fatty acids, have also played an important part in the resurgence. Flax’s popularity as a garden filler stems from its striking yet fleeting blue flowers and semi-evergreen nature. Their strong stems look surprisingly delicate with clumps of blue-green leaves, creating an elegant look in garden landscapes. The sought-after blue flowers perched on top of stems resemble small saucers. The flowers only bloom for a day, but perennial flax continues to flower for more than two months, sometimes longer if planted in the correct conditions. While it is not considered an invasive plant, it does spread easily in the right conditions. It is a great companion for many plants but coexists best with other drought-tolerant plants like lavender. Perennial flax increases the biodiversity of your garden by attracting several beneficial pollinating insects. Adding to its allure is the plant’s drought and deer tolerance as well as its low-maintenance nature. There are two ways to propagate flax – from seed or cuttings. Both are common methods but propagating through, cuttings are easiest. Let’s take a look at both methods, and what you can expect when you utilize either.
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Peruvian lily from the Alstroemeria group of plants is a perennial with stunning flowers that last long as a garden and cut flower. Once you have the care down, they can be multiplied each year for a continuous supply. Kevin Espiritu will take you through the steps to grow these pretty flowers.Alstroemeria is a beautiful Peruvian lily in many colors, sure to delight and please the most uptight acquaintances. It can be grown in the ground or in containers, and it multiplies over time. That means you can have unlimited lilies! Simply divide them in spring, and propagate. With fairly easy care, members of the Alstroemeria genus are a lovely sight in the garden and are fun to grow. Though you could buy this popular cut flower as a bouquet, why not grow a passel or pretties yourself and have ready-made gifts for your nearest and dearest all year long?The Alstroemeria lily was named after the Swedish botanist Clas Alströmer, who brought the seeds to Europe. Recognized by its upside-down, twisty leaves, this feature is how the Peruvian lily flower came to be associated with the rollercoaster ride that is friendship: the ups and downs, twists and turns that the most devoted friends stick through. How to Grow The care this plant requires is well worth the effort when you see those gorgeous blooms opening to the sun. The look on your best friend’s face when you present this gift will be well worth taking a picture of so you can make fun of the expression in the future. Light A shot of pink colored flowering plants alongside the same flower with a different color in the background, all basking in bright sunlight outdoors Select a location that has full sun or dappled sunlight. If your soil temperatures soar above 70°F (21°C), pick a spot where it will be protected from the sun in the afternoon. Otherwise, go for a full-sun area (dappled sun can also be a tolerable choice). This gives you the best chance for blooms. Water Water stream pouring out of silver watering can in the vegetable garden. Keep the soil moist but ensure the flowers do not get waterlogged. At first planting, keep the rhizomes well-watered until the first shoots appear. After that, a one-inch deep watering every week until well established should be fine. Too much water can create conditions where fungal diseases can proliferate. Therefore, keep the soil somewhat moist, but do not let your lilies get waterlogged. If there has been regular rainfall, additional water may not be necessary. Container-grown plants may need more water than in-ground plantings. Soil Use an organic, well-draining soil that can be amended with perlite. Start with the ground cleared of all debris. A soil of 70% organic material and 30% perlite is a good idea if you have heavy clay soil. However, this might not be necessary as long as the soil provides enough air and excellent drainage. To protect against summer’s heat, add a three-inch deep ring of mulch, either bark or compost, around the base without placing it directly on the plant. In areas where winters are cold, apply a couple of inches of mulch in fall for root protection through frosts. Temperature Ideal temperatures for these plants will depend on the season. Autumn and spring are usually the best times for planting, before the soil gets hot. In early spring when the temperatures are changing, a greenhouse can be handy for avoiding scorched leaves. You can ventilate and heat as needed whenever humidity rises above 85%. You can dig up your tubers and overwinter them in regions with constant subfreezing winter, or simply grow them in containers and move them indoors. Fertilizer Person pouring liquid fertilizer into a small measuring cap with a green plant in the background. Use a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every week when blooming begins. When your plants have reached two years of age, it’s a good time to supplement the soil with nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium during the growing season. Pay close attention to your soil’s pH levels; higher than seven will result in iron and manganese deficiencies, and a yellowing of leaves. For both in-ground and container lilies, feed with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every week when blooming begins. Cease at the end of the bloom period, and do not apply during dormancy, in late fall through winter. Maintenance Trim off stems of dead flowers or diseased foliage. It’s a good idea to trim the stems of dead flowers and save the plant’s energy for making new ones. Otherwise, not much pruning is needed. Good thing, too, so I can save my energy for gazing at these glorious blooms from the comfort of my porch swing. Of course, if any damaged or diseased leaves crop up, remove them as needed. Propagation The plant can be propagated by seed of division. You can propagate using two methods. By seed is one way. Another way is to dig up the Peruvian lily bulbs and divide the rhizomes in fall. Cut the plants six inches above ground about ten days before you intend to dig them up. A one-year-old plant may yield up to 15 rhizomes, a two-year-old up to 25. In the fall, you can overwinter your tubers if you’d like. Having a space to store roots in freezing weather is great for gardeners outside the plant’s hardiness range. Put the tubers in a box with coconut coir or peat moss and leave them in a cool, dry place. Then, replant the tubers in spring. Common Problems While the Peruvian lily is a fairly hardy plant, there are a few common issues. Here are the ones you want to keep an eye out for. Growing Problems Overwatering and temperature imbalances will result in growth issues. If you live in an area with very cold winters, and you don’t protect or remove tubers in fall, your alstroemerias may die. Those tubers can be stored over winter, or covered with a thick layer of mulch for winter protection. Overwatering is the number one way to put your Peruvian lilies in peril. This invites pests and diseases which can weaken or kill your flowers. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. In rainy weather, don’t add extra irrigation. Pests A close-up of a leaf surface showing small brown thrips scattered across the green foliage. Thrips, aphids, spider mites, slugs and snails are the common pests of the plant. Most of the diseases your Peruvian lilies contract can be carried by thrips and aphids, so do your best to control these populations to prevent infection. Both pests feed on the sap of plants, causing overall weakening of the plant and yellowing and/or curled leaves. Insecticidal soap can be used to treat these pests. Spider mites may attack your lilies, and drink the plant’s juices as well. If you see masses of tiny mites on leaves or notice tightly woven webs, wipe these off with a damp cloth, and follow up with a misting of insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails may also feed on leaves when the soil remains moist for too long. In an especially rainy spring or summer, there’s no getting away from them. You can hand pick them off your plants at night or trap them with slug bait or a beer trap. Diseases A close-up of a plant's roots affected by a fungus, showing discolored, decaying roots and dark soil. Fungal and bacterial diseases cause severe damage to the plant. Pythium root rot causes wilting, stunted growth, and weak stems that collapse. This occurs when the soil is heavy and moist for long periods. A clean bed with one part composted pine bark mixed with four parts of soil is a good start. Allowing the soil to dry out may also give the plant a chance to recover. Remove and dispose of any affected plants. Rhizoctonia root rot causes wilted leaves and dried stems that don’t respond to watering. Double-check that the soil is well-draining. You may need to improve this by working some compost into the top ten inches. Get rid of the infected ones and concentrate on keeping the healthy ones healthy. Botrytis blight is better known as gray mold. It shows up during the warmer, damp days as furry, gray-brown spores. They transmit on wet plants, so keep space between them for air. Also, direct irrigation away from stems and below the leaves and flowers, and remove any debris or damaged plants. Diseases like tomato spotted wilt virus and mosaic virus cause patterns of lines and spots on foliage, and they have no treatment. Not only will you have to destroy the affected plants, you’d be wise to disinfect your gardening tools with a diluted bleach solution as well.
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No matter the fruit color, the fruiting mulberry tree is an easy way to get sweet berries. Red mulberry trees come from America, but there are also white and black mulberries you can grow. Mulberries are the perfect summer treats. It is even better when you can pick out handfuls of these sweet dark fruits right off your own mulberry tree! Fresh mulberries consist of 88% water. A cup of fresh and juicy mulberries (about 140 grams) contains only 60 calories, making it the perfect fruit for casual snacking. Dried mulberries are also popular and can be eaten just like raisins. The dried fruit contains 12% protein, 70% carbs, 14% fiber, and only 3% fats. As compared to most other berries, mulberry has one of the highest protein content levels. They are also loaded with iron, potassium, Vitamin C, E, and K1. Apart from offering sweet, colorful fruit, mulberry trees also provide shade in summer and attract a variety of fruit-loving birds, including bluebirds, tanagers, warblers, and orioles. In the spring, when the mulberry tree is laden with berries, you can also expect bees and butterflies to visit your garden.
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