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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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Are you looking for a highly ornamental tree for a wetland edge, pond border, or rain garden? Weeping willows are large, graceful trees that command plenty of attention. In this article, gardening enthusiast Liessa Bowen introduces the weeping willow, and how to grow and maintain these elegant trees. When I think of a weeping willow tree, I conjure images of a large tree with gracefully swaying branches growing at the edge of a scenic lake or pond. The branches flow downwards like a cascading waterfall, nearly touching the water’s surface below. The willow tree stands alone and majestic, reflected in the still water, its leaves either at their vibrant green peak or perhaps golden yellow with showy autumn hues. Weeping willow trees have been used for centuries as a highlight in ornamental landscapes. Growing one at the water’s edge makes sense since these trees are thirsty and crave moist soil and plenty of sunlight. However, you won’t be able to—or even want to —grow this species just anywhere. If you hope to incorporate a weeping willow into your yard, take into account their specific needs and requirements to determine if this tree is right for you. There are approximately 350 species of willow trees and shrubs (genus Salix) within the willow family (Salicaceae), along with dozens of related hybrids and cultivars. Various species are native to Asia, Europe, Africa, and North and South America. The weeping willow originated in Asia and is now a widespread horticultural favorite. If you’re hoping to make a bold statement along the edge of your lake, pond, wetland, or rain garden, let’s take a closer look at the benefits and challenges of growing a weeping willow, and how to help your tree thrive and look its best. Weeping willow trees originated in China. People noticed and appreciated their natural beauty and started to cultivate them. They quickly spread to other Asian countries, Europe, the Middle East, and North America. Many species have naturalized in many states and can be found growing in riparian areas in the southeastern United States and also in California. These are fast-growing trees that reach 60 to 80 feet tall in optimal conditions. For a tree, they have a relatively short lifespan, living anywhere from 50 to 75 years. They have relatively weak wood that’s susceptible to breakage, particularly under the strains of snow, ice, or heavy storms. These trees are still important and valuable wetland trees in their natural habitat, providing shade, shelter, and foraging opportunities for a variety of birds, insects, mammals, and other animals. The weeping willow is a deciduous tree with great ornamental value. They develop a distinct form. The broad trunk develops several low-growing horizontal branches with uniquely weeping elongated leaf-lined stems. The rough, light gray bark is thick and heavily ridged. Each of the long, thin, weeping branches is lined with alternate leaves. The simple, lanceolate leaves are between three and six inches long and less than one inch wide. During the growing season, the leaves stay uniformly green and then become golden yellow in the autumn for some showy fall color. The trees blooms in early to mid-spring. These plants are dioecious with male and female flowers on separate trees. The flowers are called catkins. Catkins are elongated, pale greenish-yellow, and not especially showy, although they do attract some pollinators. Each catkin measures one to two inches long. After flowering, tiny seed capsules develop, full of fluffy, white, cottony seeds. These trees have long been cultivated and now include many unique varieties, including dwarf stature, golden yellow leaves, and corkscrew-shaped branches. Weeping willows generally have a rounded form, although the cultivars and other Salix species may be more spreading or vase-shaped. Weeping willow is surprisingly easy to propagate by cuttings. You could take a cutting at any time of year, but late winter is ideal for a very high chance of success. Select a healthy branch between one and two inches across and no more than six feet long. Cut the branch with a sharp pruning tool large enough to handle a branch cutting. Decide where you want to plant the cutting so it can grow into a large new tree. Prepare the site by removing competing vegetation and loosening the soil. Prepare a hole approximately eight to 10 inches deep and place the cutting in the hole. Push the soil against the cutting so the ground around the cutting holds it securely in place. Water the area well and keep it moist until the cutting begins to develop fresh new leaves. This will be the first indication that your cutting is a success. Keep the weeds away as your new tree begins to grow. These are fast-growing trees, and your cutting will soon begin to grow vigorously. Within a few years, it will transform from a branch cutting into an elegant young tree.
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Do you know how to harvest lettuce you've grown? Whether it's head or leaf lettuce, we have tips to walk you through harvest time. Lettuce is one of those cool weather plants from which you may collect leaves or harvest whole heads. You can even harvest lettuce as a microgreen! With all the varieties out there, it is easy for a gardener to get confused. We will provide the ultimate guide to how to harvest lettuce greens and tips on how to properly store your lettuce harvest. To learn how to grow lettuce, check out our in-depth article that’s chock-full of gardening tips on how green lettuce grows! Planting your own lettuce is a fun way to start or end the season. They can be grown directly in the soil, in raised beds, or in small spaces like container gardens. To extend your season, consider providing a shade cover as your lettuce grows that can reduce heat exposure and delay bolting. Keep in mind that when you are harvesting, make sure that your tools are clean and sanitized. Scissors, garden shears, a small knife, or grass shears can be used to collect your lettuce and also a basket or container to hold your crop. When you are ready to store, you will want to have paper towels and a plastic storage bag on hand. Now let’s explore a few varieties of lettuce such as microgreens, cos, looseleaf, crisphead, butterhead, and stem lettuce. When Should I Harvest Lettuce? The packets that hold your lettuce seeds will provide an estimation of when to start harvesting. The recommended dates on your lettuce seeds should be used as guidelines in partnership with observation. Young baby salad greens can be harvested by the end of the first month of planting. These baby salad greens are cute, nutritious, and tender. They develop after the microgreen stage and are only a few inches tall. Leaf lettuce and compact heads of lettuce will start to mature 6-10 weeks after sowing in your garden. Harvest leaf lettuce when it’s about 4 inches tall. The outer leaves on compact heads can be collected during the growing season before harvesting the whole head. These individual outer leaves can be ready to collect when they are 4 inches. When the entire plant has reached 6 inches, it is ready for a cut-and-come-again harvest every two weeks or so. By leaving the lettuce crown intact for this method, there is a chance that plants will continue to grow for an additional lettuce harvest. Be sure to provide lots of water for a successful regrowth! If you are cultivating types of lettuce such as romaine, crisphead, or butterhead, you are looking for leaves to be 8 inches. Squeeze the head to check for firmness, the leaves should be compact and plump. Many types of lettuce prefer cool weather and do not do well in hot weather. When daytime temperatures reach above 80 degrees, the lettuce will start bolting and a flower stalk will emerge. You will want to harvest your lettuce immediately if this happens. The leaves can turn bitter in taste, but a few bitter leaves can be hidden in a larger salad. Or you can let the lettuce go to seed and reseed itself in your garden. When you grow lettuce, the best time of day to harvest lettuce is in the cool and early morning. The leaves will be fresh and crisp when the weather is cool! If harvested later in the day, your lettuce may be soft and wilted from sun exposure. Lettuce grows best when the temperatures are cooler, and is less susceptible to bolting then too. Harvesting Lettuce By Type There are many types of lettuce you may be gardening, such as the black seeded Simpson that is valued for its green loose leaves or headed lettuce like romaine to add a bit of crunch and texture to your salad. Some of these varieties do well in a strategic trimming of the leaves or harvesting the plant above its crown and they will continue growing. Another method of harvesting lettuce is to remove entire plants by digging them up from the soil. Lettuce Microgreens Harvesting microgreens is super easy! They will be ready 10-15 days after planting the seeds when the first true leaves have emerged. If you are gauging by height, harvest the microgreens when they are 2-3 inches. It’s fun to explore the flavor profiles of the microgreens at different heights. Use a pair of scissors or grass shears and cut the entire plant ½ inch above the soil line. We have many other cool gardening tips on growing microgreens including lettuce microgreens if you need inspiration! Cos Lettuce Cos or romaine lettuce has a desired crisp or crunch factor to its leaves. As it develops, the outer leaves of the lettuce plant can be harvested. You can cut off the leaves 1-2 inches above the soil. By harvesting these young green leaves, there is more time for the lettuce to mature for the ability to harvest entire plants. Romaine lettuce can take 55-70 days to grow from seed before it is mature. Check the lettuce itself to confirm when it is ripe. Romaine is prepared for harvest when the lettuce leaves are 6-8 inches tall, the ribs of the lettuce are firm and juicy, and the leaves have formed a tightly-compacted head. Squeeze the lettuce head to check for firmness. Young head lettuce will be soft and overripe head lettuce will be hard. To harvest, cut 1 inch above the soil, preserving the crown for a second harvest. If its garden lifespan is close to an end, you can dig up the entire plant to harvest the lettuce head. Loose Leaf Lettuce There is a wide harvest window for leaf lettuce varieties. The young baby lettuce leaves can be picked for harvest 25 days after planting and the plant will reach full maturity in 50-60 days. Be sure to harvest your crop before it bolts. Loose-leaf lettuce is great for repeated harvests, as you get multiple harvests during the season. Once the leaves are 4”, you can cut the entire lettuce 1-2” above the soil line. If the crown is left intact, new leaves will sprout from the base and can be ready to harvest again in 10-15 days. To have a continual harvest throughout the season, try multiple seed sowings and staggering the sowings. Resowing is recommended if you desire the fresh taste of the young baby greens. There is another harvesting approach: trimming young leaves on the outside of the head for greens while allowing for the inner leaves to grow. You can start harvesting lettuce from these plants when they are 4 inches by snipping them above the soil line. Crisphead Lettuce Crisphead or iceberg lettuce is absolutely delicious as homegrown salad greens. This can be a cut-and-come-again harvest but you might not get a full head of lettuce. This green lettuce is more suited for a single harvest. The harvest window is around 50-75 days after planting. Iceberg lettuce can be prepared for harvest as soon as the head develops, the center feels firm with leaves tightly compacted, and before the exterior leaves turn brown. Harvest before the crisp lettuce begins to open and the seed stalk begins forming. More importantly, harvest immediately if you notice the seed stalk or the lettuce starting to bolt, a common problem in hot weather. The best way to harvest iceberg lettuce is to dig up the entire plant and then trim the stalk off. This lettuce plant has a thick stem and it can be difficult to harvest while it is still in the ground. Please be careful to not damage the lettuce head if you choose to harvest it while it’s in-ground. You can lift the lettuce upwards and cut the stem right below the leaves. Butterhead Lettuce Butterhead lettuce is a savory and delicate salad green. It is ready to harvest as early as 45 days after seeding, with the final harvest no later than 75 days after sowing. This lettuce has its best flavor before it is fully mature. Baby butterhead lettuce can be harvested early in the season. You can routinely trim the young leaves, use a cut-and-come-again method, or thin out the garden bed by removing some of the young plants. You are ready to harvest the whole heads of lettuce when it begins to feel firm and the leaves are 8-15 inches. There are a few methods to remove the full head of lettuce from the garden, such as cutting the stalk below the head of lettuce, or digging up the plant and cutting off the stalk. If you harvest and leave the base of the plant or stalk, lettuce may regrow and produce more leafy green goodness. Stem Lettuce Stem or celtuce lettuce is different from the other lettuce mentioned above because it is appreciated for its stem. The leaves can be collected throughout the growing season yet the flavor may start to turn bitter as it matures. Celtuce lettuce is ready for harvest when the diameter of the stalk is 1 inch and it is 8-14 inches. Cut the stalk at the base of the plant, right above the soil line. Or you can remove the entire plant by digging it up and trimming the base and roots off. The leaves will also need to be trimmed off before storing. How To Store Fresh Lettuce First a few tips on properly storing lettuce. Placement in the fridge is key, most like to put their lettuce in the crisper drawer. Avoid placing it towards the back of the fridge, which may accidentally frost your crop. If the lettuce is placed next to apples, bananas, or pears, these fruits can increase rates of decomposition and your harvest may wither quickly. Lastly, you can refresh wilted lettuce by placing it in an ice bath for 15 minutes before consuming it. Tender greens like microgreens, loose-leaf lettuce, and trimmed lettuce leaves wilt fast and are best enjoyed within 3 days of harvesting. First, wash any dirt or debris from these salad greens, then let dry on a dish towel or pat dry. Store them in the fridge in a plastic bag or container, packed in some dry paper towels (I like to use brown coffee filters) which will absorb any excess moisture and keep the lettuce from getting soggy and decaying. To extend the shelf life of your harvest, continue to check and replace the paper towels when they are saturated. Head lettuce like cos, iceberg, and butterhead can be stored directly in the fridge without washing and can last 1-2 weeks. First, remove any dirty or damaged leaves. Wrap the head of lettuce in paper towels or dish towels and place it in a plastic storage bag or bin. Just as with the lettuce leaves, you can extend the shelf life of your lettuce by replacing the paper towels when they get wet. When you are ready to consume, then you can thoroughly wash the head of lettuce. With stem lettuce, make sure to remove the leaves from the stem. Wash, dry, and store in the fridge in a plastic bag. They are best fresh but can last up to 1-2 weeks in the fridge.
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All About Ube Before we get started, let’s clear up the yam/sweet potato confusion. Though they look and taste similar, these aren’t the same plants. Sweet potato is actually part of the morning glory family while winged yam is part of the “true yam family”. Dioscorea alata is grown all around the world, so it has many different names. The common name winged yam comes from the stem’s appearance. It’s square-shaped with flat ridges, or “wings”, lining the corners. You may also hear it called “water yam”, which is referring to the tuber’s high water content. These plants are also referred to as “ube” or “ubi” in Phillippine cuisine. Winged yam is such an old plant that its exact origin is unknown, though it’s believed to have come from Southeast Asia. Called a cultigen, this species has only been known in cultivation and may even be a hybrid. It came to North America in the 1500s, when it was introduced to Florida by the Spanish and Portugeuse. Today, ube root crop remains a staple food in Southeast Asia, West Africa, and South America – especially the Philippines. There, it’s used primarily in desserts from cake to ice cream to frappes. Despite its popularity as a dessert-dish, some countries have replaced winged yam with the sweet potato and other crops. In the US, winged yam has gotten a little out of hand. They’re ruthless plants that will take over any space they find. Winged yam has escaped cultivation in the southern United States, the Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. It’s so destructive that the Florida exotic pest plant council has registered it as a fully-fledged invasive species. As gardeners of this plant, we’re responsible for keeping it contained. It’s not exactly high-maintenance, but growing and containing winged yam is no small feat. The vines have been known to reach 20-30 feet tall, often climbing nearby trees. They grow so quickly that some gardeners have reported 8 inches of growth in a single day. The vines aren’t the only thing busy growing. Each plant sports one underground tuber. If left unharvested, the tubers will grow and grow until they’ve reached 8 feet long. Sometimes, the vines will grow smaller, aerial tubers above ground (similar to the air potato). These bulbils are meant to develop into new plants and are excellent for propagation. It may be fast-growing, but these plants aren’t invincible. They only last through the winter in zones 9-11. In colder locations, they must be grown as an annual. Come harvest time, it’s vital that you make sure you cook the tubers completely before eating as they’re toxic when raw! If any ube tastes bitter, do not eat it. Cooking should render this safe, but the bitterness is a warning sign. Winged Yam Varieties In most places, ube is ube. In others though, especially the Philippines, there are many different varieties of this species. Kinampay is considered the original winged yam species. It’s nicknamed “Queen of Philippine Yams” and has 4 further varietes: tamisan, binanag, kabus-ok, and binato. With these yams, different varieties often mean different colors. While most, such as Zambales, stick to the classic purple, others have varying shades of white. The Basco variety, for example, is white with a lavender tinge. The Leyte variety ranges from a lovely cream color to pink. Planting Like potatoes, winged yam is usually grown by planting chunks of the tuber. You can buy the starter pieces online or acquire some from a friend. Small tubers can be planted whole, while large ones can be cut into several pieces. Let the pieces dry out before planting or sprouting them. In the tropics, Dioscorea alata can be planted any time of year, but usually just after the rainy season. Here in the US, that’s equivalent to spring. Don’t plant your yams in the ground until all chances of frost have passed. It takes anywhere from 3-12 weeks for the tubers to sprout. You can get ahead of schedule by sprouting the yam pieces before planting. Just stick them in a bucket of soil and keep them moist. Once they sprout, you can transplant them into their permanent homes. Before planting in the ground, till the soil well. The growing tubers will appreciate the extra room that loose soil gives it. Plant the tubers 4-5 inches deep and 2 feet apart. It’s recommended to add organic mulch on top to hold in water and prevent weeds. Dioscorea alata can be grown in containers, but you’ll have to watch the size. Use at least a 5-gallon container and harvest the yam before it outgrows its home. Care Winged yam species are pretty rough-and-tumble plants. However, you’ll get the best results by following their care preferences. Here’s what we recommend. Sun and Temperature Give your winged yam full to partial sunlight. Since it’s from the tropics, it likes to be nice and warm; at least 70°F is preferable. If you live in zones 9-11, you can grow these plants as perennials. Otherwise, the weather will only allow this yam to grow seasonally. Freezing temperatures can cause damage to the roots and green growth. Water and Humidity Dioscorea is drought-tolerant, but it thrives best with consistent moisture. Water it whenever the top few inches of the soil begins to dry out. Drip lines or soaker hoses work really well for this plant. When the plants start to die at the end of the growing season, stop watering so they won’t rot. Humidity isn’t a huge factor here, so long as you keep the soil moist during the summer. Soil Dioscorea alata species will grow in a variety of soils. For optimal growth, though, the soil should have all the best features. It should be loamy, fertile, full of organic material, and well-draining. It’s also important that the soil is loose so the tubers can grow easily. A neutral or slightly acidic pH will be fine. Fertilizing Dioscorea alata isn’t too picky about fertilizer as long as it has nutrients. Stock the soil with organic matter before planting and use mulch. If you’d like to give the plant and aerial tubers an extra boost, apply a balanced fertilizer a couple of times during the growing season. Pruning and Training As a climber, this vine will much appreciate a trellis to grow on. Plus, having a support will boost your plant’s growth. When it’s climbing, the vines will spread out and expose more leaf surface for photosynthesis. Use a trellis, fence, or even a host tree. If the vines don’t take to the support on their own, gently wind them around it. If necessary, tie them loosely with a scrap of fabric. If your plant outgrows its support, prune back the vines with sharp, clean clippers. If your Dioscorea alata grows aerial tubers that you don’t plan to propagate, clip them off before they mature. This potentially invasive plant spreads quickly through aerial tubers and we want to keep it under control. Destroy the aerial tubers before throwing them out so they don’t take root in your compost bin. Propagation It’s rare for Dioscorea to flower in much of the United States, so seed isn’t a common propagation method. Instead, gardeners rely on aerial tubers or root propagation. Start off by cutting the root or aerial tubers from the rest of the plant. Unless you have a very small tuber, cut it into several chunks. Each one is a potential Dioscorea alata. After they’re cut, you have to let the pieces dry out for a couple days. Otherwise, the new wounds could quickly rot when planted. To speed up the process, dip the cut end in wood ash. Once dry, bury the pieces in a bucket of dirt and keep it moist. Once they sprout, you can move the baby yams to their permanent home. Harvesting and Storing Get your dessert recipes ready, because it’s harvest time! Each plant is one-and-done, so the process shouldn’t take too long. Harvesting When the tubers are mature, the foliage will yellow and die. This is your cue to grab the shovel and start harvesting. This usually happens from November to January. If the frost is going to hit your area earlier than that, you’ll want to harvest early. Carefully pull up the entire plant, using a shovel if necessary. Remove the tubers from the vine and brush off the dirt. It’s that simple! Ensure that you remove all tubers, aerial tubers, and vines from the ground so nothing is left to its own devices. Otherwise, you may end up with a particularly invasive plant on your hands. If you live in USDA zones 9-11, you have the option of letting your Dioscorea alata grow for 2 or more years. Just leave it in the ground over winter. It will likely shed its leaves and go dormant for at least a few months. The following harvest season, you should have a massive payoff. Storing You can keep your freshly-harvested Dioscorea on the kitchen counter or pantry. It just needs to stay dry or it may sprout. Remember that the tubers are toxic when raw, so you have to cook them completely. It’s also advisable to wear gloves while preparing them. Cook the Dioscorea alata winged yam as you would a potato. Or, if you have a sweet tooth, head over to Pinterest for some Dioscorea dessert recipes like ube cupcakes. If you have a huge tuber, you can remove a piece at a time, and the remaining winged yam will usually be fine. For long-term storage, keep your yams in a dry place. Periodically check for and remove any rotted pieces. Troubleshooting You’re in luck, as there aren’t many problems to deal with when it comes to Dioscorea alata. We’ll go over a few things though, just in case. Growing Problems Greening of tubers happens when they’re exposed to sunlight while growing. It’s a result of the tubers producing chlorophyll, the same chemical responsible for photosynthesis in leaves. Depending on the amount, chlorophyll can be dangerous when eaten by humans. Stay on the safe side and discard any green portions. Prevent this from happening by keeping the tubers covered at all times while they’re growing. If at any time the tubers poke out of the soil, quickly make a mound over it. Pests Root-knot nematodes hit this species right where it hurts: the tuber. They’ll disrupt their growth and cause knots and deformities. Above-ground, you’ll notice stunted growth and yellowing leaves. Prevent these nematodes by tilling the soil well before and after each harvest. You should also use crop rotation with nematode-resistant plants. For existing infestations, try a nematicide. Geraniol and quillaja saponaria based treatments are a good organic option. Alternately, add beneficial nematodes to the soil as they will hunt down and kill the root-knot nematodes. Scale insects, particularly white scales and mealybugs, are common pests that feed on Dioscorea alata juice. They secrete honeydew that attracts ants, which is another pest to eliminate. The best approach is to prevent these insects in the first place. Keeping the soil clear of debris and the plant dry are the best measures. You can also prune infested vines or remove the pests one by one with a dab of rubbing alcohol. For large infestations, try using an insecticidal soap, or beneficial predators such as lacewings or ladybugs. Neem oil or horticultural oil can kill off their eggs. Diseases Anthracnose is a fungal disease that will cause leaf spots on your beautiful Dioscorea alata species. In time, it can yellow and wither the leaves, eventually killing them. This disease usually isn’t fatal to the whole plant, but can definitely affect its growth. Try a dose of neem oil, copper fungicide, or sulfur dust fungicide to treat this fungus. Prevent anthracnose by keeping your plant clean and dry. The mosaic virus creates a “mosaic” of color on the leaves, usually in shades of yellow and green. It sounds pretty, but the coloring is caused by damage to the veins, which are vital to the plant’s health. This disease will stunt Dioscorea alata’s growth and even affect the starch content of the tuber. This virus is typically transmitted by Dioscorea alata cuttings, so ensure that you’re only planting disease-free yams. Insects can also transmit the disease, so arm yourself against any pest problems. There’s no cure for this disease, so prevention is your only weapon.
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The name green onion refers to many different types of onions. Learning how to grow green onions ensures you’ll always have access to the freshest, most flavorful alliums you can find! The true green onion is Allium fistulosum, also known as scallions, bunching onions, or just plain old green onions. These are the ones we’ll focus most of our attention on today. Traditional onions, Allium cepa, have a red or white bulb, but they can be harvested before the bulbs form, and the young stalks can be used like green onions. Finally, there is Allium proliferum, called tree onions or Egyptian onions. These onions are harvested specifically for their long green leaves. They develop in tight knots of multiple bulbs and stems attached together, and tend to spread over time. If you’re wondering how to get all of these delicious varieties of green onions, we have tons of information to share! We will go over how to start green onions from seeds, starts, or other methods. Let’s jump into how to plant green onion seedlings in your garden. All About Scallions Allium fistulosum, or green onions, are also commonly called bunching onions, scallions, Welsh onions, or Japanese bunching onions. It is likely that they were foraged in the wild before becoming popular in China and Egypt. Tokyo Long White, Evergreen, and Heshiko are some of the most popular varieties. Green onions look similar to the traditional onion, Allium cepa. They have tall, green stalks, and are usually 1-2 feet tall. They have slender white bulbs at their base that do not get large enough to form an onion. In hot temperatures, scallions will bolt to seed, forming a globe shape of tiny white flowers. Green onions are perennial and the scallion leaves can be harvested for several years in mild climates. All parts of scallions are edible, including the flowers. Thinner scallions will have a milder taste, while thicker onions will have a stronger flavor and hold up to cooking better. One interesting fact about scallions is that you can tell the variety by looking at a cross-section of the leaves where they turn white: if it is D shaped or flat, it is A. cepa, but if it is O shaped, it is A. fistulousum. Planting Green Onions Begin to sow seed indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. Keep the seeds moist and they should emerge in 7 to 14 days. If direct sowing seed, sow each seed ¼ inch deep when temperatures are at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit. A seedling heating mat can help with germination. Thin seedlings so they are 2 inches apart or leave them to separate later. When the seedlings are ready to transplant, separate the seedlings. Begin to transplant 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost date in the spring, but if desired you can keep planting throughout the spring and summer season and into the fall. Space seedlings one to two inches apart, with rows spaced 6 inches apart. Consider interplanting with your other crops as green onions may help to repel pests from your garden. Be sure to irrigate regularly as onion plants have shallow roots. Plant traditional onion sets 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. Care for them like you would a transplanted green onion, but plant at least 2 inches apart to allow space for bulb growth. Remember, the green leaves can be used just like green onions are, but an Allium cepa will eventually form a larger onion bulb. Grow green onions in a garden bed, or in containers, like the Root Pouch grow bags, Air Pots, or tiered GreenStalk planters we stock in our online store! Care Now that you know more about the types of green onions, let’s learn how to take care of them so they can mature! Let’s go over more of the specifics on how to care for scallions. Sun and Temperature Plant in a sunny location that gets at least 6 hours of full sun. Scallions form best in zones 6-9 and thrive in temperatures between 60-75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plan to grow scallions through the winter, mulch around your planted bulbs in the fall with straw or other organic matter to protect them from cold temperatures and prevent weeds. In zones warmer than 9, you might want to plant your green onions somewhere in the garden where they will receive afternoon shade. Since onions like full sun, it is definitely possible to raise scallions in hot climates! Growing green onions indoors is also an option, particularly for those who have cold winters. Make sure they have plenty of light and warmth during the cold season and you’ll have scallion harvests through the winter and well into the spring. Water and Humidity Morning is the best time to water to reduce soil moisture evaporation. This also allows foliage to dry out during the day so they’re less prone to disease. Scallions are sensitive to drought. Aim for 1 inch of water per week. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation. Ditch or “furrow” irrigation is another viable method. Dig a long trench in the soil an inch or two from your plants and flood the furrow, allowing the bulbs to absorb moisture. If you have sandy soil, you will need to irrigate more frequently. In a cooler season or mild climate conditions plants develop more slowly, so less watering is required. Soil Scallions prefer fluffy, well-balanced, and loamy soil. If you have poor soil, amend it with organic matter like compost at least six inches deep. While onion bulbs are able to develop in clay soil, they have a hard time if it dries out, and the soil may hold a little too much moisture for their liking. It’s best to amend to allow for good drainage while still keeping the soil moist. To grow scallions, the optimal soil pH range is between 6.0 and 7.0. These bulbs can tolerate soil pH a little lower than 6.0, so if you’re planting them near tomatoes or other solanaceous plants, they’ll manage. If soil is too alkaline, these may struggle to get off to a good start. Fertilizing Since scallion plants are leafy greens, you’ll want to fertilize them every regularly with a nitrogen-rich amendment. Liquid fertilizers such as fish fertilizer or comfrey tea have nutrients immediately available to your plants, so consider watering with a liquid fertilizer during the growing season to provide nutrients when your plants need them most. For a longer-term solution, use granular fertilizers that will be released slowly into the soil. Look for one that is high in nitrogen (the “N” in N-P-K). If desired, top-dress with rich compost. Pruning Most of the time, pruning is only done for harvesting purposes. Plants can be trimmed for cosmetic purposes, such as removal of wilted leaves, but otherwise should be left until it’s time to pick them. If your green onions bolt to seed and you want to prevent seed drop, trim off the flower stalk. Often, you may experience leaf wilt during flowering as well. Early trimming of the bud and stalk (referred to as an onion scape) will redirect your plant’s energy towards leaf development. If you’d like to collect seed, let the flowers fully open. Onion flowers are pretty impressive. They create a large, almost ball-shaped umbel. As the flowers start to fade, tie a paper bag over the top and tightly secure it to the stalk. The seeds are very tiny. Cut the stalk once it begins to droop, and set it somewhere so that the head can dry out and the seeds can drop out of the flower. Propagation One method of propagation is bulbs or “sets”. The best way to use sets is by planting them in late fall and overwintering them in the garden. In the spring they’ll start pushing up new growth. You can also use nursery starts of Allium cepa, and plant them to achieve the green onion stalks. Keep in mind that only Allium fistulosum will produce tree green onions with no onion bulb. True scallions have a milder flavor than A. cepa, which has a stronger onion flavor. If you save rooted bulbs from store-bought green onion plants, you can easily regrow green onions. They’ll happily produce tall, green leaves every couple of weeks and give you a bonus crop. This works both indoors and outdoors, so if you’d like to save your young green onion bases from the supermarket and pop them into moist soil under a T5 light, you’ll see new growth rapidly emerge! And, of course, starting from seeds is definitely an option. There’s a wide variety of seeds available for many different species of scallion or bunching onion types. Follow the directions in the “planting” section above for how to sow seed. Harvesting and Storing Wondering what to do once you have mature green onions? Let’s talk about how to harvest the plant and what to do with your delicious scallions! Harvesting Start to pick your green onions as soon as they reach a usable size. The best time to harvest is when the bulbs are white and have a diameter about the size of a pencil, but even smaller seedlings can be harvested. In fact, it’s possible to sow onion seeds and harvest onions as microgreens if you so choose! Either dig up the whole plant if you plan to eat the mild white bulb, or snip the stem off just above soil level and allow it to continue growing. A clean pair of kitchen scissors or garden snips work well for this. Cut-and-come-again harvests like the latter method mean you can enjoy a continual harvest by leaving the roots and base of the plant in the ground and cutting the stalks off an inch or two above the soil line. The plant will quickly send up more edible shoots! When growing traditional bulb onions as green onions, harvest the green leaves early and use them like scallions. Egyptian onions should be harvested from the second season onward. If your plant is bolting, the stalk and unopened bud are referred to as an onion scape. Onion scapes are just as delicious as the leaves are, and can make an incredible addition to a stir-fry or other meal. Storing Store green onions in a partially filled jar in your fridge, with just enough moisture to come partway up the bulbs. If you harvest stalks without bulbs, store the stalks wrapped in a paper towel in a plastic storage bag. Alternatively, slice them and refrigerate them cut, also in a plastic bag. Moisture is the enemy to your green onions as they’re being stored with these methods, so the paper towel is crucial to keep bulbs and leaves dry. To freeze green onions, rinse them off and thoroughly pat or air dry them before freezing. The texture will often be a bit mushy when they thaw out, so this is best if you plan to use them in cooked food rather than as a garnish If you have a dehydrator, dehydrating the stalks and grinding them into a powder is a great option for long-term storage. Troubleshooting Now let’s discuss some problems you might encounter while growing scallions. Since scallions are in the Allium family, they tend to repel many pests with their odor, although they are susceptible to a few pests and diseases that are easily treatable. Growing Problems Too much moisture can cause your growing scallions to develop some forms of root rot. Be careful to provide just enough moisture for them to thrive. Use a drip hose or other irrigation system to keep the soil damp. On the flip side of that, too little moisture causes leaf wilt or yellowing, so make sure they aren’t thirsty. If it is too hot, your onions will bolt to flower. Be careful to plant them at the right time for your growing zone. Competition from weeds can cause scallions to be small and weak or even die. Check your plants regularly and pull any weeds out from around them, especially ones in their root zone. Mulching can reduce weeds as well. Pests Thrips and aphids are common pests in onion crops and can be blasted off with a strong stream of water from a hose. If they persist, use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Severe infestations can be treated with pyrethrin. Onion maggots can be prevented by following crop rotation in the garden. You can also use floating row covers as a barrier against the flies that lay onion maggot eggs. Beneficial nematodes are natural predators of onion maggots. Most pyrethrin insecticides that work on thrips will also help manage onion maggots. Slugs and snails are also an issue, but they’re easy to treat. A beer trap can be placed amongst your crops to catch some of these annoying pests. As long as it’s about as deep as a pie pan, snails and slugs will be attracted to the aroma of the beer and it’ll be deep enough to drown them. If you don’t want to use beer traps, an organic slug and snail bait is another great option and will draw the pests away from your greens. Diseases White rot can cause mold or rot at the base of the plant and yellowed, wilted leaves. If you notice diseased plants, remove and dispose of them. Avoid planting alliums in that location for a couple of years. Good crop rotation is essential for your allium’s health. Onion downy mildew (Peronospora destructor) can cause irregular spotting and decreased size. Copper fungicides can be used to treat, but use a 3-year crop rotation between allium crops in that bed. Botrytis leaf blight causes white spots on leaves, and the plant may wilt and die. This is most common when plants are wet for 20 hours or more during cool temperature conditions. Provide proper airflow to allow plants to dry out. Treat with alternating copper and sulfur fungicides until the blight is eliminated, or remove infected plants and destroy them. Do not compost blighted material.
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