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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
gardening experts
Learning how to grow peas is one of the best things you can do. These versatile, delicious veggies are huge producers and extremely healthy. Have you ever wondered how to grow peas? Green peas are one of those tastes that embody spring: bright green, crisp and sweet. Knowing how to grow peas in the vegetable garden gives us a never ending supply, and everyone should devote some garden space to this cool-season crop. But peas have an interesting history, too! Before humans developed agriculture, sweet peas were an abundant crop and a staple food that hunter-gatherer peoples would forage regularly. Interestingly, the Romans believed that freshly picked peas were poisonous, so they dried all peas before consumption. This was the common practice until a French gardener under the reign of King Louis XIV developed a pea hybrid called petits pois. These smaller, delicious fresh peas exploded in popularity with the king and thus spread to worldwide appeal. Now people all over grow peas. While we think of peas as a vegetable nowadays, the pod is biologically considered a fruit, and the sweet-tasting peas are seeds. All peas are considered part of the legume family, along with beans and other podded produce. Let’s dive into the world of growing Pisum sativum, the pea plant. We’ll go over how to grow peas, what environments are optimal, and even how to store them for eating later! Planting Peas Peas are a cool-season crop. Most people plant peas in the early spring as soon as the soil is workable, as they can tolerate light frosts. Plant six weeks before the last frost date if the ground is warm year-round. Planting peas in fall is also an option. Plant 8-10 weeks before the first frost for best growth and the largest fall harvest. In California or the gulf states, many people grow peas from seed all winter and early spring. Cooler temperatures are preferred by the plants. Gardeners in the south typically sow peas as a mid or late fall crop. The seeds go dormant throughout the winter and sprout as soon as possible in the spring. This ensures an early spring harvest. Unlike many other plant types, plant your entire cool-season crop of peas at once, whether early-season or late-season plants. This gives your plants the maximum time to produce before it becomes too warm or too cold. Planting peas like this ensures you’ll have an abundant crop with a steady harvest over a few weeks rather than a large crop all at once. As peas are tolerant of partially-shaded conditions, plant your peas in beds that receive anywhere between 4-8 hours of sun or a mix of dappled shade and sun. This means that peas can go in areas that other vegetables can’t! When choosing how to grow peas, they can be planted nearly anywhere if you’re planting self-supporting or dwarf varieties. However, vining varieties need to be trellised or staked to offer support as they grow. Larger pea plants require more support. If you’re planting a variety that is anticipated to reach 5-6’ in height, have your trellis in place when you plant so that the peas can climb. Avoid planting in areas with high winds, as pea vines are sensitive and can be damaged if blown off their supports.
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Apples are only slightly more difficult to grow than pears. Perfect Plants offers eight different apple tree varieties to choose from. Our favorite varieties include ‘Anna’, ‘Ein Shemer’, and ‘Dorset Golden’ for the South; and ‘Fuji’ and ‘Granny Smith’ for more northern climates. If you are looking for a self fertile apple tree check out the Golden Delicious! Apple trees go through a dormant season so you need to know your local “chill hours” and hardiness zone (they are not the same) and check out the Apple Tree Grow Guide for information on how to grow apple varieties.
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Commercially grown bananas are green, hulking, 8-inch-plus behemoths with nary a spot on their smooth, firm skin. Homegrown bananas—at least in my home—are half that size, and so cute and plushy that you want to poke a finger into their freckled skin like the Pillsbury Doughboy. While some sources say that bananas lose texture and… Commercially grown bananas are green, hulking, 8-inch-plus behemoths with nary a spot on their smooth, firm skin. Homegrown bananas—at least in my home—are half that size, and so cute and plushy that you want to poke a finger into their freckled skin like the Pillsbury Doughboy. While some sources say that bananas lose texture and flavor as they’re left to ripen on trees, I don’t always agree. After eating many a store-bought banana that has ripened off the plant, that first tree-ripened (or more accurately, stalk-ripened) banana from my backyard tastes like a creamy marshmallow. (Though bananas do occasionally split open when they’re too ripe, so I try not to let them get to that point.) In fact, my favorite campfire dessert is a banana, split in half and stuffed with mini marshmallows, chocolate chips, and peanut butter, then wrapped in foil and roasted over a fire. Talk about creamy. But I digress. It didn’t seem so long ago that I was looking at a bloom of beautiful banana flowers. Banana berries (remember that nifty tidbit?) soon appeared, and seemingly overnight an entire bunch had ripened and I couldn’t eat all the bananas fast enough.Long before settlers in the Americas ever tasted a banana in the 16th century, the fruit was cultivated throughout Southeast Asia, the Middle East, and Africa. But the banana of the time was far from the perfect Chiquita banana we see today. The early banana was small and modest, about the size of a man’s finger. It is believed that Arab slave traders, who also traded ivory and bananas, coined the crop banan, the Arabic word for finger. So, it makes sense that an individual banana is referred to as a “finger” on a “hand” of bananas. But long, long before those farmers and traders ever hawked bananas, the Greek philosopher and botanist Theophrastus (a student of Aristotle) recounted a folk legend of three wise men who sat under the shade of a banana tree and ate its fruit. This myth led to the now-obsolete botanical name of the banana, Musa sapientium, which translates into “banana of the sages.” This wisdom carried over into other cultures, too. According to Hindu legend, the banana was the forbidden fruit from the Tree of Knowledge of Good and Evil in the Garden of Eden. After the Fall of Man, Adam and Eve covered their naked bodies with banana leaves rather than skimpy fig leaves (as we know them). To this day, a banana is often referred to as a fig (or figue) in the West Indies. Carl Linnaeus, the father of Linnaean taxonomy, classed one form of the banana as Musa paradisiaca, an archaic scientific name that translates into “banana of paradise.” Early European names deriving from the Middle Ages include apple of paradise, fig of Eve, and fig of Adam, as well as the French fig du paradis (fig of paradise). But as they say… a banana by any other name would taste as sweet.
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Although planting a tree is an exciting task, rushed planting and a lack of knowledge can lead to unhealthy trees. Join plant expert Briana Yablonski to learn common tree planting mistakes you should avoid. Adding trees to your property is a great way to provide natural shade, support pollinators, and enjoy homegrown fruit. But planting trees isn’t as simple as sticking them in the ground and walking away. Common mistakes include planting at the wrong depth, watering improperly, and choosing the wrong species can all lead to unhealthy or dead trees. Whether you’re planting your first tree or adding to your backyard orchard, it’s helpful to know some common tree planting mistakes. Avoiding these 11 errors will increase the odds you’ll end up with a healthy tree. Not all trees are well suited for every climate, sun exposure, and soil type. While you may dream of growing a weeping willow or flowering cherry in your front yard, planting a species that doesn’t fit into the surrounding environment will likely lead to an unhealthy plant and unhappy humans. When choosing a new tree for your property, take note of the following characteristics and choose a species that will thrive in that environment. Hardiness zone: Most species are suitable for various hardiness zones, but some will suffer when exposed to extreme heat or cold. Sun exposure: Whether you’re planting in full sun or shade, you can find a variety for the type of light you’re working with. Soil moisture: Some species, like willows and alders, require moist soil, and others grow best when the soil remains slightly dry. Although you can supplement the moisture level through irrigation, choosing a species well suited to the native moisture level will simplify care. Soil type: Some grow best in loose sand, while others thrive in dense clay. Available space: Ensure you have enough space for the full size at maturity. For instance, if you’re growing on a balcony, you’ll have to skip larger trees. Planting at the Wrong Time of Year Planting at the right time of year is crucial to its success. Aim to get your saplings in the ground when they’re dormant, which means they’re not actively growing. While the plants will take time to put on new growth, dormant trees will face less stress during the transition from a container to the ground. Fall and spring are both great times for planting trees. If you plant in the fall, wait until hot temperatures have subsided. However, try to plant a few weeks before freezing temperatures arrive. Planting around the time the leaves fall from the trees is a good bet. If you plant in the spring, get saplings in the ground before the buds break. It’s okay if the saplings experience a few frosts after you put them in the ground, but protect the new transplants with row cover if a frost arrives after bud break. Choosing a Poor Location While trees may seem hardier than tender annuals and vegetative perennials, they’re still sensitive to the type of light, moisture, and soil. If you add a tree to a less-than-ideal area, it may not thrive. Along with looking at environmental conditions like hardiness zone and light, you should also think about the tree’s growth. A tree may grow well next to your house or beside a brick wall for a few years, but once it reaches a certain size, it can begin encroaching on structures and utility lines. Therefore, it’s important to account for the tree’s growth before selecting a location. Look for above-ground obstacles like buildings, power lines, and other trees. While you can prune the tree to avoid these obstructions, it will involve consistent work. Next, think about low-lying items like sidewalks and driveways. As tree roots expand, they can cause these surfaces to buckle and crack. You should also consider if the roots’ spread will endanger underground utilities. If you want to plant a tree close to obstacles, look for a species that’s short and/or narrow. It helps to look at the tree’s mature shape when deciding which species to plant. Not Checking for Utilities Before Digging Before you dig a hole, you should always call to check and see if there are utility lines underground. Digging into an electric line or water supply pipe while planting a tree is not only dangerous, but it can be a costly mistake. Even if you don’t think any utilities are buried in your intended planting area, it doesn’t hurt to check. Most utility companies will come out and mark utility lines for no charge. It may take a few days or weeks for them to make it out to your property, so contact them well before your intended planting date. If you’re not sure who to call, dial 811 to be directed to the proper resources. Digging Too Small of a Hole One of the most common mistakes gardeners make when planting trees involves digging a hole that’s too small. Since 80% of tree roots are in the top two feet of soil, you want to make it as easy as possible for the roots to grow horizontally. Digging a wide hole loosens the soil and speeds root expansion. Regardless of which type and size of tree you’re planting, you should always dig the hole at least three times as wide as the root ball. You don’t have to dig the entire hole at the same depth. Instead, you can create a saucer-shaped hole that’s deep in the middle and shallower towards the edges. The roots will have an easier time growing into loosened soil than compacted soil. Plus, removing the soil gives you an opportunity to remove any large rocks that would inhibit root growth. Not Watering Enough Supplying newly planted trees with an adequate amount of moisture helps them recover from the stress of planting, and saves you from the headaches of moisture mistakes. Since young saplings and bare root specimens don’t have developed root systems, they require more frequent watering than larger trees. If they don’t have access to enough water, they will have difficulty regulating their temperatures, completing photosynthesis, and fighting disease. Many gardeners start on the right foot and keep their trees well watered in the weeks following planting. But as a few more weeks pass, life gets busy, and many forget to provide the new tree with water. This lack of irrigation can prove especially problematic during hot and dry summers. The amount of water to apply depends on the soil type, tree size, and rainfall. However, you should generally apply one-and-a-half gallons of water for each inch of the tree’s trunk. For example, supply three gallons of water to a two-inch wide tree and four-and-a-half gallons to a three-inch wide tree. The watering frequency typically decreases as the time from the planting date increases. A good rule of thumb is to water every day during the two weeks following planting and then every two to three weeks in the following ten weeks. While these are good recommendations, check the soil moisture and adjust as necessary. You can supply the water with a hose or bucket or automate watering with the help of a drip irrigation system and a timer. Regardless of which irrigation method you use, aim for infrequent deep waterings rather than frequent shallow waterings. Deep irrigation encourages the growth of deep roots and helps the plant withstand wind and drought. Watering Too Much Yes, there is such a thing as watering too much! Overwatering can prevent the roots from completing gas exchange, taking up nutrients, and properly absorbing water. Constantly moist soil also increases the chances that roots will develop fungal diseases. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between watering, and remember to water deeply and infrequently. Watering your plants a little each day will keep the soil moist and discourage the development of deep roots. Planting Too Deep Whether you start with a bare root or a potted tree, planting at the proper depth is crucial. If you plant too deep, the upper roots often grow around the trunk and strangle it. At first, this underground issue isn’t noticeable. But after a few years, a girdled tree often displays a quick and serious decline. You may notice premature leaf drop, yellowing leaves, reduced growth, and intense disease and insect pressure. Eventually, your once-healthy maple or birch dies. So, how deep should you plant your tree? No matter which type of material you’re starting with, use the trunk’s structure as a guide. Sometimes, nursery workers plant potted saplings too deep in their containers. Therefore, you can’t assume planting the top of the potting soil flush with the ground will lead to the correct depth. First, look for a flare in the trunk. This is the point where the straight trunk begins curving out before the roots. Placing the flare an inch or two above the soil surface is ideal. If you’re planting a grafted tree, keep the graft a few inches above the soil line. A trunk flare is often hard to see in small saplings. If that’s the case, you can use the top-most roots to guide the depth. These large, structural roots should be located one to three inches below the soil surface. If you’re growing on a slope, you’ll need to make some adjustments to ensure both the uphill and downhill roots are at the proper depth. First, flatten out the area where you plan to plant by digging into the slope or adding extra soil. Once you have a flat area, plant as you normally would. Starting with a Rootbound Sapling When you’re choosing a specimen, you have three main options: bare root, container-grown, and wrapped. If you start with a specimen growing in a pot, you should make sure it isn’t rootbound. If plants remain in their pots for too long, the roots eventually begin circling the bottom of the container. When you remove these rootbound saplings from their containers and place them in the ground, they often have a difficult time adapting to their new home. They have plenty of roots, but they have a difficult time spreading throughout the soil. It’s best to avoid purchasing rootbound trees. However, if you’re starting with a container-grown specimen with tightly-packed roots, you can take a few steps to help it adjust to planting. Cutting an X through the bottom of the roots will help them expand. You can also use your hands to lightly pull the roots apart. Improper Mulching Too much mulch, too little mulch, and improper mulch placement can all negatively impact trees. Therefore, it’s important to apply wood chips, straw, and any other type of organic matter in just the right way to protect them. When you add mulch, add two to four inches around the base of your tree. This will help protect the roots against both hot and cold temperatures and limit evaporation. Avoid applying more than four inches of mulch since too thick of a layer can lead to issues with airflow and water infiltration. Make sure to leave a few inches of space surrounding the trunk free of mulch, and never mound the mulch against the trunk. Creating a mulch volcano or mulch pyramid leads to multiple issues and a slow but serious decline in tree health. It can trap moisture and cause the bark to decay, which leaves the plant more susceptible to pests and disease. Roots often grow into the mounded mulch and sometimes girdle the trunk. As the mulch decays, these above-ground roots are left open to the air and quickly dehydrate. Not Protecting from Pests Since mature trees are expensive and often impractical, gardeners usually start with plants that are less than ten feet tall. These small plants are easier to plant and better able to adapt to their new home, but they’re also more susceptible to attacks from pests. Mammals like deer and beavers find the tender young growth to be delicious. These critters can eat through an entire trunk in a single day and kill the tree. Fortunately, you can easily protect from these pests. Wrapping the trunk with wire or heavy plastic mesh will make it impossible for the mammals to reach it. You should also keep an eye out for insect pests. Although you may not see any pests immediately after planting, caterpillars may appear later on. If they are causing serious damage to the leaves, you can remove them by hand or spray the foliage with Bt. Sometimes, a strong stream of water from a hose is enough.
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