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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
gardening experts
If you’re on a budget and you’re not in a hurry to get your garden filled out, planting strawberries far apart is a more economical option. This method works with strawberry plants that produce runners, so the plants propagate themselves without any extra work on your part. They’ll multiply over time and produce baby plants for free, which means you don’t have to buy as many in the beginning. When you plant strawberries farther apart, you plant them across the entire future strawberry bed, leaving upwards of 2 to 3 feet of space between plants. You’ll have a lot of bare ground and you’ll need to be patient, but your patience will pay off once the runners grow in. After their first year, most strawberry plants have between three and six baby plants on each of their runners. If left alone, these baby plants will root themselves and mature into adult plants. But if you want to fill in the empty spaces in your garden bed more effectively, it’s best to move and transplant the babies where you want them. Once the baby plants are established, the runners dry up and fall off. These new plants will eventually produce their own runners, thus creating even more baby plants—so you can see how it’s pretty simple to let a strawberry patch grow in on its own. Most varieties of strawberries send out multiple runners, which are more properly known as stolons. The word “stolon” comes from the Latin word stolo, meaning a shoot or branch springing from the root. Runners are long, leafless stems that run horizontally above the ground and have baby plants at the ends, which are genetic copies of the mother plant. These tiny clones form adventitious roots (similar to the stems of tomato plants) and grow into the ground surrounding the mother plant, eventually becoming new plants. Most varieties of strawberries send out multiple runners, which are more properly known as stolons. The word “stolon” comes from the Latin word stolo, meaning a shoot or branch springing from the root. Runners are long, leafless stems that run horizontally above the ground and have baby plants at the ends, which are genetic copies of the mother plant. These tiny clones form adventitious roots (similar to the stems of tomato plants) and grow into the ground surrounding the mother plant, eventually becoming new plants. Runners are produced by nearly all Junebearing strawberries, and some everbearing and day-neutral strawberries.
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If you’re looking to grow gorgeous and ethereal flowers this season, look no further than love-in-a-mist (nigella) flowers. These incredible showstoppers will add a touch of elegance to your garden. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum covers how to plant, grow, and care for these majestic flowers.Love-in-a-mist flowers also go by their botanical name, Nigella. They put on beautiful, dancing flowers framed by delicate fennel-like foliage that resembles verdant mist. As they grow, their foliage tangles beneath their flowers and bracts. You can grow these mystical flowers in flower beds, cut gardens, or pathways. They look beautiful when paired with other delicate flowers. Or, use them as backdrops to roses and other brightly colored centerpieces. They come in a variety of colors, from the popular blue varieties to white, pink, and purple varieties. They’ll bloom for several weeks starting in late spring. Once they bloom, they’ll fill with color. Growing these stunning early-season bloomers is super easy, even for novice gardeners. Let’s dive into how to plant, grow, and care for love-in-a-mist (Nigella) flowers below. Love-in-a-mist flowers are from the genus Nigella. They produce upright foliage with slender stems and colorful flowers. They’re often grown in garden beds and pathways as border crops. Many gardeners love them for their mist-like appearance, which frames other colorful garden flowers. These delicate flowers are members of the buttercup family of plants, or Ranunculaceae. They make a graceful addition to any flower garden. You can also grow them as a small to medium ground cover surrounding your garden beds. Because of their numerous flowers, they’ll be some of your garden’s best early-season pollinator attractors. Bees and other insects swarm to their beautiful blooms. Their woven foliage is also a great habitat for beneficial insects such as ladybugs.
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If you’ve heard the snap and crack during a winter weather event, you’ve experienced the dread of a fallen limb or, worse, an entire tree. Garden expert Katherine Rowe looks at the best care for trees after a heavy snowfall to prevent further damage. Trees are the “bones” of the garden and those strong, magnificent bearers of everything from ornamental appeal and shade to soil stabilization, carbon sequestration, and wildlife nesting and forage. While able to withstand all kinds of conditions, heavy, wet snowfall and ice are a lot (literally) for tree branches to hold, causing them to be damaged under the weight. Winter and early spring storms can bring snow, ice, and high winds to cold climates. They also do severe damage in warmer areas that traditionally don’t experience wintry conditions. Specimens with multi stems or brittle limbs are most susceptible to breakage, but all trees can incur damage in winter extremes. How we address heavy snowfall is important in aftercare for susceptible branches, and the proper management keeps us from doing unintentional damage. Preventative measures help overall tree health in withstanding winter weather. Know the Most Susceptible Trees Both deciduous and evergreen tree species are susceptible to damage from heavy snowfall and ice. To hone in on those in your landscape with the greatest tendency to break, here are a few to keep an eye on: Weak-wooded and fast-growing deciduous species like cottonwood, ash, elm, willow, poplar Multistemmed selections like birch, arborvitae, juniper Trees with more than one central leader (main branch) Wide spreading canopies, horizontal branching Those with poor form (deep v-shaped or narrow angles) and deadwood Aged specimens After Care Once the snow falls or ice forms, there are measures to address weighted stems and any resulting breakage. One of the best first steps is to wait until ice and snow naturally melt in warming sunshine, usually a quick process, to assess the damage. For personal safety, we can’t overstate the importance of not standing beneath or working on large trees or branches impacted by heavy snowfall and winter damage. Limbs and entire trunks can snap or uproot at any time due to wet, saturated conditions. Interacting with branches can promote movement and cracking or dislodge hangers. Let snow and ice naturally melt in these cases, and enlist a certified arborist to assess preservation measures post-storm. Snow If heavy snowfall, not ice, is the main event, tend to young and small trees to dislodge the pack and prevent damage. When limbs bend under the weight of heavy snowfall, it’s tempting to give them a hardy shake. Vigorous shaking, though, can cause too much bounceback as stems are flexible. The snapback with the snow lifted may cause splitting. Instead of big shaking, do so lightly. You can also sweep the snow off the branch in an upward motion, keeping the weight off the end of the bending stem. Alternatively, lifting the branch is a safe means of displacement. Using a broom handle or other pole, lift the limb from below for subtle movement. Stand aside and watch for falling branches and snow as you lift. Don’t hit the stem to shed snow; it can damage bark and tissue. Ice Ice storms often do the most damage, sweeping lots of small and large debris from trees in a single event. To view the destruction of a severe ice storm is equivocal to the aftermath of a hurricane. A layer of ice makes stems brittle, and working with them leads to easy breakage. Ice is best left to melt in the sun, as opposed to using hot or cold water to accelerate melting on an above-freezing day. Water adds weight through saturation, and hot water can cause tissue damage in addition. Avoid lifting or shaking icy branches. If the tree shows bending, add a support prop to discourage further weight, but avoid trying to raise the branch. Remove the prop once the ice melts so branches can naturally return to shape. Treating Breakage If damage is minimal (like small twigs and branches), the woody grower will rejuvenate on its own in coming seasons. Breaks that need attention are ragged cuts, hanging limbs, and those not at a growth point. Consider pruning as a means toward recovery if: the tree is otherwise healthy the primary trunk and most significant branches are intact at least 50% of the crown remains the remainder is sound When a limb breaks, it can leave a jagged, splintered cut in the branch or junction point. Make a clean cut when possible to minimize exposed tissue. Reducing exposure prevents subsequent wound damage like moisture and disease intrusion. Trees are adept at healing, and a clean cut is a good foundation for warding off pathogens. New growth emerges at a healthy node before the cut. Trim back any small stem breaks to the first healthy branch. If the end of a large branch is gone, trim it back to a healthy branching node for growth to develop around the tip. On conifers, damage to the central leader is recoverable by pruning it back for new leaders to develop. Continued pruning fosters the best shape for sturdy, wind-resistant forms. Topping, removing, or reducing leaders on all trees results in less structural integrity. They become prone to future weakness and wind toppling. Tree Tying Tying the branches of susceptible evergreen trees is a means of preventing winter damage before a heavy snowfall or storm. This is most feasible for small specimens and young trees. In this method, branches are bundled upward toward the trunk using soft, flexible ties. The aim is to prevent weighty snow from accumulating. It also protects against ice damage. To tie stems, wrap flexible material (bungee cords, fabric strips, nylon hose) around the entire conifer. Create a cone shape with a gentle binding to support stems and shed snow. Remove the ties after the threat passes or late in the season as conditions moderate. Protective Barriers If you have a spot in your yard prone to drifts or piling, like snow sliding off a peaked roof, installing a temporary barrier is an option. These can stay in place all winter to protect individual specimens or go in for the short term before a storm. Wooden Structures Basic wooden structures become reusable forms to hold heavy snowfall off the tree. Repurpose wooden boards to build an A-frame or box structure around the tree. Secure the pieces using nails, screws, or hinges. With the frame in place, use a tarp, plastic sheeting, burlap, or landscape fabric to cover it during the weather event. Staple or tie the cover to the frame. After the weather clears, remove the cover to allow exposure to sunlight, moisture, and airflow. Keep the frame in place for the season, replacing the cover as needed. If leaving the cover in place for extended periods, opt for burlap since it’s breathable. In spring, store the frame for next year or repurpose the wood. Evergreen Boughs Clip evergreen boughs or repurpose your Christmas tree to position against small trees and shrubs. The added coverage collects and displaces snowfall. Arrange the boughs by leaning them against the existing growth so snow slides down and off. The extra insulation also helps against ice. Managing Bent Branches Leaders and stems may show a bent form even after the snow and ice passes. Without breakage present, they’ll likely rebound over time. Resist the urge to prop or tie them up. Let them reform naturally to minimize weakness or breakage. If drooping, bending, or distorting is still evident by early summer, strapping and wooden supports can help train the stems. Use tree staking supplies like flexible straps or fabric strips tied to bamboo or other wooden stakes for repositioning. Take off the strapping in one or two growing seasons to avoid girdling as the tree grows. Preventative Pruning Pruning contributes to long-term health and improves resistance against winter injury. The goal of preventative pruning is to direct growth to retain a sturdy structural form. Leave big cuts and structural decisions to professional arborists. Prune out dead, diseased, or crossing limbs any time of year. Stop any pruning by late summer to avoid generating new growth. Tender stems are susceptible to weakness and winter dieback, potentially damaging the limb in freezing situations. Pruning deciduous trees during dormancy allows full visibility of structure and form while growth is inactive. Pruning when dormant doesn’t promote new growth until temperatures warm. Prune to develop a central leader (primary branch) and a scaffolding structure suitable to the species. Start with young trees to foster the best form and strength.
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Over the last two years, during this gawd-awful pandemic, garden centers have seen a huge increase in sales of vegetable growing supplies. A lot of people either got into veggie gardening for the first time or simply upped their game due to the extra time they had on their hands, with nowhere to go. For me personally, it has been fun to see so many enthusiastic gardeners getting into growing their own veggies. But after two years, I can’t help but wonder how many of those gardeners were successful and are still at it and how many have tossed in the towel and moved on. Any kind of recreation has to be fun and rewarding for us to continue to pursue it. If you found yourself struggling or just looking for some advice, here are some tips that will help you be more successful. Good soil is essential. If you are fortunate enough to have good loamy soil, then planting directly into the dirt (with added fertilizer) is the way to go. But if you are like most of us who have rocks and clay, then containers/raised beds will make your gardening life a whole lot easier - the bigger the container the better. Don’t cheap-out on the potting soil. Whether bagged or bulk, spend a little extra and get the good stuff - especially considering that it will last you for years, as long as you enrich it every season with fertilizer. Feed, feed, feed. I am convinced that the single most common reason for poor results when growing vegetables is a lack of food. Manufactured soils (especially bulk blends) are notorious for not having enough food in them to sustain prolonged growth. I always put down extra food and mix it into the soil before I plant. For me that means using a good organic food for veggies along with some lime, earth worm castings, and some trace elements, like oyster shells and Azomite. As you harvest your crops, you will need to re-fertilize the soil if you are planning on replanting for a late season crop. If you are a Miracle-Grow junkie, you will need to feed weekly for maximum results. Either way, if your veggies are just sitting there then chances are that they are starving and need to be fed. Sunshine is critical. There are very few vegetables that will thrive in the shade. Most leafy crops, like spinach, lettuce, and arugula, and broccoli, cauliflower, and brussels sprouts, will do okay. A few root crops, like radishes, carrots, onions, and potatoes, will also tolerate some shade but these will all perform better if they have full sun, especially here in the northwest. If you are growing heat lovers, like tomatoes and peppers, full sun is absolutely essential. Don’t rush the season. This time of year is what we call the cool season, best for growing crops that either produce edible roots (like carrots and beets) or shoots (like lettuce and broccoli). Peas will also grow well now during the cool season. Later towards the end of spring (usually in May) is when it is best to plant the heat lovers, like tomatoes and peppers, cucumbers, squash, eggplant, beans, and corn. Proper watering. Suffice it to say that vegetables, like all plants, will do best if there is consistent water available. The more frequently you check (by sticking your fingers roughly 2 inches into the soil), the more successful you will be. Harvest at the right time. How many of us are guilty of doing our best to get everything right, but then letting the crop get over-ripe? Check your garden daily when plants are getting close to being ready for harvest. Veggies harvested at their peak are usually so sweet that they often never make it into the kitchen - part of the fun of growing your own food! This spring, step outside your comfort zone and grow something for the first time or try growing something new. Whether you grow vegetables for yourself, your family or your whole neighborhood, it can be such a fun and rewarding endeavor - plus nothing really tastes as good as homegrown! Stay safe and keep on gardening.
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