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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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Banana plants are often seen as wild-looking trees that give off lush jungle vibes in a landscape, but they can also be grown successfully in containers outside or as houseplants inside. The trick is giving them conditions they love (hint: plenty of sun) and choosing the right varieties for your space and climate.The common name “banana plant” is applied to a bunch of different species in the genus Musa, the bananas and plantains. The genus contains some 70 different plants, most of which aren’t edible or just not very pleasant to eat due to their large seeds. A hybrid called Musa × paradisiaca is said to be the parent of most edible banana cultivars.Edible bananas, the result of domestication and selective cultivation by humans, have been around for a long time. Research has indicated that the cultivation of bananas, now one of the most common crops worldwide, began around 7,000 years ago in Southeast Asia. There are now estimated to be well over 1,000 different cultivars out there. Banana plants are often confused with palms (hence their misnomer “banana palm”), but they actually form part of the order Zingiberales, alongside plants like ginger and Strelitzia (bird-of-paradise, another popular houseplant). And while they’re usually referred to as “banana trees,” they are classified botanically as herbaceous perennials because they never form a woody stem (aka a trunk) the way a tree does—the “trunks” are actually succulent stalks (pseudostems).Banana “trees” are characterized by their massive foliage, which are quite fragile. In banana trees kept outdoors, the leaves usually look torn and shredded, but this doesn’t bother the plant itself. Because banana plants die off after blooming but produce plenty of offsets (also known as pups or shoots) before doing so, mature ones that have been left to grow wild will often consist of a bunch of different stems growing together.
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Thinking of planting an Iris virginica in your garden? This carefree aquatic plant, usually found in the wild across the Southern and Eastern United States, is the perfect addition to any water-heavy spots in your garden. Gardening expert Madison Moulton examines the best ways to plant, grow, and care for the Southern Blue Flag. Nestled the balmy heat of the Southeastern United States, from Virginia to Louisiana and into Texas, sits Iris Virginica – a delicate herbaceous perennial. The small, intricate blue blooms top long stems, surrounded by spiked green leaves that contrast in texture and structure. Looks are not the only thing this showy plant has going for it. It is also incredibly low maintenance, growing well anywhere it is provided wet soil. This makes this Iris which has a striking blue flower, an ideal addition next to ponds or streams, or as a part of a water feature. Although it resides largely on the South coast, this plant will thrive in a range of climate regions. No matter where you reside, you won’t regret adding this plant to your water garden. What Is Iris Virginica? The Virginia Iris is a member of the Iris genus, containing hundreds of species and cultivars with similar detailed, interesting flower types. The genus name comes from the Greek for ‘rainbow’, seemingly referring to the colorful flowers found across these fascinating species. Iris Virginica is Native to the Eastern and Southern coastal regions of the United States, it features bluish-purple blooms surrounding a yellow and white center. The yellow patch is believed to guide pollinators to the nectar inside the center of the flower. Each petal is decorated with deep violet veins that stand out against the light base. The delicate flowers are surrounded by clumps of sharp green leaves that add volume to the plant. This plant is commonly compared to its Northern counterpart, Iris versicolor. Both Iris species are incredibly similar, growing in the same wetland conditions and sporting similar flowers. However, Northern Blue Flag is understandably more cold-hardy, growing well in USDA zones 3-9. Southern Blue Flag (and Northern Blue Flag, too) is mostly found in the wild and not typically grown in home gardens. They are skipped over in favor of their more popular ornamental relatives. However, this shouldn’t stop you from growing it in your own backyard. These plants provide the classic Iris look we all love in wetland conditions. This makes them ideal for tricky spots like ponds, or planted in rain gardens, where they will grow without fuss. They are also native to the US, a great alternative to some of the invasive Iris species that disrupt the local environments. Propagation There are a few ways to correctly propagate the iris virginica. In the wild, Virginia Iris spreads by dropping seeds or slowly extending the rhizomes. When left to spread on their own, the clumps can become congested, preventing further prolific growth and flowering. When kept in your garden, it is best to divide and replant the rhizomes every few years to promote flowering. Alternatively, you can harvest the seeds and replant them immediately, straight into the garden. Dividing Southern Blue Flags Division is best done in late summer or early autumn. When the leaves begin to yellow, you’ll know the plants are ready to be propagated. Divide after the plant has finished flowering to enjoy the best of its blooms for that season and limit the risk of bacterial soft rot. To divide, gently lift the plant out of the soil with a fork, ensuring you do not damage the rhizomes. Depending on the age of your plant, you may be able to pull the rhizomes apart, but if not, they can be cut with a clean, sharp knife. Use this time to remove any unhealthy rhizomes or dying leaves. New, healthy rhizomes will be plump with plenty of leaves, while older ones will have a woody texture. Cut the leaves to around a third of their height. This allows the plant to focus its energy on rhizome regrowth, limiting any potential transplant stress. Replant the viable rhizomes back into the garden, ensuring they have plenty of sunshine and water to reestablish themselves. Propagating From Seeds When propagating from seed, plant immediately after harvesting when the seeds are still ripe. You’ll know the seeds are ready when the pod turns brown and dries out. Iris virginica seeds do not respond well to being stored and, if allowed to dry out, will no longer be viable. Plant the seeds straight into the garden in fall and they should emerge again come springtime. Planting This particular plant should ideally be planted in early spring. Rhizomes are best planted in fall, but potted plants can be transplanted into the garden in early spring to get the most of their late spring and summer flowers. Plant around 2’ apart to give the plants enough space to spread. Ensure the area you are planting in has plenty of sunlight and receives a good amount of water throughout the day. Ideal spots include bog gardens or rain gardens, or along streams and rivers. This perennial can be planted as a border plant in garden beds, but will need constant watering to thrive. When planting in beds, ensure you pair it with other water-loving plants to match their needs. As they need consistently moist soil, most other common bedding plants will succumb to root rot under the same conditions. Care One of the great benefits of growing this plant species is its remarkably carefree nature. When given the right environment, this plant will grow and flower reliably for many years without too much intervention from you. Light When it comes to light, this plant needs plenty of sun to produce its showy flowers. In most regions, it is best planted in a full sun position. However, in hotter areas, it may benefit from some shade in the afternoons. The more shade this plant receives, the less likely it will be to flower.
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Although planting a tree is an exciting task, rushed planting and a lack of knowledge can lead to unhealthy trees. Join plant expert Briana Yablonski to learn common tree planting mistakes you should avoid. Adding trees to your property is a great way to provide natural shade, support pollinators, and enjoy homegrown fruit. But planting trees isn’t as simple as sticking them in the ground and walking away. Common mistakes include planting at the wrong depth, watering improperly, and choosing the wrong species can all lead to unhealthy or dead trees. Whether you’re planting your first tree or adding to your backyard orchard, it’s helpful to know some common tree planting mistakes. Avoiding these 11 errors will increase the odds you’ll end up with a healthy tree. Not all trees are well suited for every climate, sun exposure, and soil type. While you may dream of growing a weeping willow or flowering cherry in your front yard, planting a species that doesn’t fit into the surrounding environment will likely lead to an unhealthy plant and unhappy humans. When choosing a new tree for your property, take note of the following characteristics and choose a species that will thrive in that environment. Hardiness zone: Most species are suitable for various hardiness zones, but some will suffer when exposed to extreme heat or cold. Sun exposure: Whether you’re planting in full sun or shade, you can find a variety for the type of light you’re working with. Soil moisture: Some species, like willows and alders, require moist soil, and others grow best when the soil remains slightly dry. Although you can supplement the moisture level through irrigation, choosing a species well suited to the native moisture level will simplify care. Soil type: Some grow best in loose sand, while others thrive in dense clay. Available space: Ensure you have enough space for the full size at maturity. For instance, if you’re growing on a balcony, you’ll have to skip larger trees. Planting at the Wrong Time of Year Planting at the right time of year is crucial to its success. Aim to get your saplings in the ground when they’re dormant, which means they’re not actively growing. While the plants will take time to put on new growth, dormant trees will face less stress during the transition from a container to the ground. Fall and spring are both great times for planting trees. If you plant in the fall, wait until hot temperatures have subsided. However, try to plant a few weeks before freezing temperatures arrive. Planting around the time the leaves fall from the trees is a good bet. If you plant in the spring, get saplings in the ground before the buds break. It’s okay if the saplings experience a few frosts after you put them in the ground, but protect the new transplants with row cover if a frost arrives after bud break. Choosing a Poor Location While trees may seem hardier than tender annuals and vegetative perennials, they’re still sensitive to the type of light, moisture, and soil. If you add a tree to a less-than-ideal area, it may not thrive. Along with looking at environmental conditions like hardiness zone and light, you should also think about the tree’s growth. A tree may grow well next to your house or beside a brick wall for a few years, but once it reaches a certain size, it can begin encroaching on structures and utility lines. Therefore, it’s important to account for the tree’s growth before selecting a location. Look for above-ground obstacles like buildings, power lines, and other trees. While you can prune the tree to avoid these obstructions, it will involve consistent work. Next, think about low-lying items like sidewalks and driveways. As tree roots expand, they can cause these surfaces to buckle and crack. You should also consider if the roots’ spread will endanger underground utilities. If you want to plant a tree close to obstacles, look for a species that’s short and/or narrow. It helps to look at the tree’s mature shape when deciding which species to plant. Not Checking for Utilities Before Digging Before you dig a hole, you should always call to check and see if there are utility lines underground. Digging into an electric line or water supply pipe while planting a tree is not only dangerous, but it can be a costly mistake. Even if you don’t think any utilities are buried in your intended planting area, it doesn’t hurt to check. Most utility companies will come out and mark utility lines for no charge. It may take a few days or weeks for them to make it out to your property, so contact them well before your intended planting date. If you’re not sure who to call, dial 811 to be directed to the proper resources. Digging Too Small of a Hole One of the most common mistakes gardeners make when planting trees involves digging a hole that’s too small. Since 80% of tree roots are in the top two feet of soil, you want to make it as easy as possible for the roots to grow horizontally. Digging a wide hole loosens the soil and speeds root expansion. Regardless of which type and size of tree you’re planting, you should always dig the hole at least three times as wide as the root ball. You don’t have to dig the entire hole at the same depth. Instead, you can create a saucer-shaped hole that’s deep in the middle and shallower towards the edges. The roots will have an easier time growing into loosened soil than compacted soil. Plus, removing the soil gives you an opportunity to remove any large rocks that would inhibit root growth. Not Watering Enough Supplying newly planted trees with an adequate amount of moisture helps them recover from the stress of planting, and saves you from the headaches of moisture mistakes. Since young saplings and bare root specimens don’t have developed root systems, they require more frequent watering than larger trees. If they don’t have access to enough water, they will have difficulty regulating their temperatures, completing photosynthesis, and fighting disease. Many gardeners start on the right foot and keep their trees well watered in the weeks following planting. But as a few more weeks pass, life gets busy, and many forget to provide the new tree with water. This lack of irrigation can prove especially problematic during hot and dry summers. The amount of water to apply depends on the soil type, tree size, and rainfall. However, you should generally apply one-and-a-half gallons of water for each inch of the tree’s trunk. For example, supply three gallons of water to a two-inch wide tree and four-and-a-half gallons to a three-inch wide tree. The watering frequency typically decreases as the time from the planting date increases. A good rule of thumb is to water every day during the two weeks following planting and then every two to three weeks in the following ten weeks. While these are good recommendations, check the soil moisture and adjust as necessary. You can supply the water with a hose or bucket or automate watering with the help of a drip irrigation system and a timer. Regardless of which irrigation method you use, aim for infrequent deep waterings rather than frequent shallow waterings. Deep irrigation encourages the growth of deep roots and helps the plant withstand wind and drought. Watering Too Much Yes, there is such a thing as watering too much! Overwatering can prevent the roots from completing gas exchange, taking up nutrients, and properly absorbing water. Constantly moist soil also increases the chances that roots will develop fungal diseases. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between watering, and remember to water deeply and infrequently. Watering your plants a little each day will keep the soil moist and discourage the development of deep roots. Planting Too Deep Whether you start with a bare root or a potted tree, planting at the proper depth is crucial. If you plant too deep, the upper roots often grow around the trunk and strangle it. At first, this underground issue isn’t noticeable. But after a few years, a girdled tree often displays a quick and serious decline. You may notice premature leaf drop, yellowing leaves, reduced growth, and intense disease and insect pressure. Eventually, your once-healthy maple or birch dies. So, how deep should you plant your tree? No matter which type of material you’re starting with, use the trunk’s structure as a guide. Sometimes, nursery workers plant potted saplings too deep in their containers. Therefore, you can’t assume planting the top of the potting soil flush with the ground will lead to the correct depth. First, look for a flare in the trunk. This is the point where the straight trunk begins curving out before the roots. Placing the flare an inch or two above the soil surface is ideal. If you’re planting a grafted tree, keep the graft a few inches above the soil line. A trunk flare is often hard to see in small saplings. If that’s the case, you can use the top-most roots to guide the depth. These large, structural roots should be located one to three inches below the soil surface. If you’re growing on a slope, you’ll need to make some adjustments to ensure both the uphill and downhill roots are at the proper depth. First, flatten out the area where you plan to plant by digging into the slope or adding extra soil. Once you have a flat area, plant as you normally would. Starting with a Rootbound Sapling When you’re choosing a specimen, you have three main options: bare root, container-grown, and wrapped. If you start with a specimen growing in a pot, you should make sure it isn’t rootbound. If plants remain in their pots for too long, the roots eventually begin circling the bottom of the container. When you remove these rootbound saplings from their containers and place them in the ground, they often have a difficult time adapting to their new home. They have plenty of roots, but they have a difficult time spreading throughout the soil. It’s best to avoid purchasing rootbound trees. However, if you’re starting with a container-grown specimen with tightly-packed roots, you can take a few steps to help it adjust to planting. Cutting an X through the bottom of the roots will help them expand. You can also use your hands to lightly pull the roots apart. Improper Mulching Too much mulch, too little mulch, and improper mulch placement can all negatively impact trees. Therefore, it’s important to apply wood chips, straw, and any other type of organic matter in just the right way to protect them. When you add mulch, add two to four inches around the base of your tree. This will help protect the roots against both hot and cold temperatures and limit evaporation. Avoid applying more than four inches of mulch since too thick of a layer can lead to issues with airflow and water infiltration. Make sure to leave a few inches of space surrounding the trunk free of mulch, and never mound the mulch against the trunk. Creating a mulch volcano or mulch pyramid leads to multiple issues and a slow but serious decline in tree health. It can trap moisture and cause the bark to decay, which leaves the plant more susceptible to pests and disease. Roots often grow into the mounded mulch and sometimes girdle the trunk. As the mulch decays, these above-ground roots are left open to the air and quickly dehydrate. Not Protecting from Pests Since mature trees are expensive and often impractical, gardeners usually start with plants that are less than ten feet tall. These small plants are easier to plant and better able to adapt to their new home, but they’re also more susceptible to attacks from pests. Mammals like deer and beavers find the tender young growth to be delicious. These critters can eat through an entire trunk in a single day and kill the tree. Fortunately, you can easily protect from these pests. Wrapping the trunk with wire or heavy plastic mesh will make it impossible for the mammals to reach it. You should also keep an eye out for insect pests. Although you may not see any pests immediately after planting, caterpillars may appear later on. If they are causing serious damage to the leaves, you can remove them by hand or spray the foliage with Bt. Sometimes, a strong stream of water from a hose is enough.
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The passion flower (Passiflora incarnata) blooms with a gorgeous flower pollinators love. Sarah Jay will go through the detailed guide and best-growing tips to get the most out of this rampant vine.The passion flower is strange, wondrous, and native to the whole southeast United States. It’s a host for fritillary butterflies, and a great source of sweet, delicious fruit called may pops. It’s perfect for fenced and trellised areas of your landscape. But Passiflora incarnata has a tendency to get out of hand and spreads rapidly if it’s planted in an area where it gets everything it needs to thrive. While this isn’t always an issue for gardeners, those who like a lazy garden may find it creeping into nearby beds. All that being said, it’s a lovely vining perennial that provides stunning summer views year after year. Chances are you’ll love it once you add it to your garden. Passifora incarnata is the scientific name for purple passion vine, purple passion flower, passionflower, holy trinity flower, apricot vine, and may pops. The purple passion flower is a fast-growing vining perennial that reaches 20 feet or more. Both fruits and flowers are edible and many food items are made from them, like passion flower extract. How to Grow Now that we’ve discussed a bit about Passiflora itself, let’s discuss how to care for it and reap the benefits of its lovely fruit. Light This flower prefers full sun exposure with at least 6 to 8 hours of sun per day. Six to eight hours of full sun is best for passion flower. Partial shade or afternoon shade may be required for plants in areas where direct sunlight in late summer is scorching. I’ve seen vines growing out in the open exposed to full sunlight all day, though. So, how established and prolific the plant is will factor into how well it can take being planted in direct sunlight. Water Close-up of a watering can pouring water onto young plants with elegant, arching stems and smooth, rounded green leaves with delicate veins. Ensure the soil has dried out before watering again. Purple passion flower does best in containers when it is given a lot of water and then allowed to dry out before watering again. In the ground, that means local rain is often enough to keep it going. In times of drought, water a couple of times a week to keep the soil moist. If you over winter the plant, gradually stop watering and trim it back when the foliage dies. In the spring, when new growth appears, resume a normal watering schedule. Water in the morning before the sun is fully out. Moderate humidity is maintained when there is enough plant matter growing around the soil to provide it. Soil Use a good quality garden or potting soil that drains well. A good quality garden or potting soil works for passion flowers. Make sure the root masses have access to well-drained soil. These vines have shallow roots. A thick layer of organic mulch helps the plant flourish through winter and emerge in early spring. Although passion flower vines prefer sandy, well-draining, fertile soil, they also grow in heavy clay soil. To develop your own mix, try two parts loam, two parts peat, and one part perlite or sand. Most species in the Passiflora genus appreciate neutral to acidic soils as well. Temperature The flowers will thrive in hardiness zone 6 to 10. This plant is native to the southeastern US and is hardy in USDA zone 5 through 9. It handles lows down to 18°F (-8°C), and highs in triple digits. As long as you give it time to get established, you’re gold! The root structure should have enough time to establish itself to survive through the hot summer and cold months, even when the showy leaves die away. If you’re growing in a container, bring it in when winter arrives. Fertilizing Close-up of a woman's hand with NPK fertilizers on a blurred background of a pink bag of fertilizers. Fertilizers are granular and consist of many small round balls of a delicate pink hue. They can benefit from a high-phosphorus, slow-release fertilizer every 4 months. While fertilizing isn’t necessary, especially in its native range, you can provide high-phosphorus fertilizers to help the passion fruit and its unusual flowers form. Do not overfeed, as this will raise nutrient levels, which attracts unwanted insects that feed on your vines. A slow-release fertilizer applied every four months during the growing season is more than enough. Maintenance Pruning helps promote new growth. Prune your plant just before spring arrives or in early fall, depending on the region you live in. To bring an older vine back to life or promote next year’s growth, pruning is necessary. You can also prune to train young passionflower plants on a trellis or other support. Prune dead plant material. Then, remove all stems except ones with plenty of buds. As a general rule, do not remove more than a third of the plant, otherwise you risk killing it. If you know your vine dies back in colder months, cut it to the ground in early fall to a third of its size. You may wonder if deadheading the blooms is necessary. It is not! Flowers will bloom and fade on their own, and your passion plants will form fruits. Removal of the fruits before they fall to the earth can help control the plants’ spread, though they’re only ripe when they fall naturally. Pruning away suckers from the base of your vines prevents spreading too. Propagation This perennial can be propagated using its cuttings or seeds, which is often more difficult. It is possible to propagate via seed, but passion flower seed germination is difficult. The easiest ways to prop your passion flower vines are by layering and cuttings. Mound layer a vine by taking the leaves off of a woody stem and burying it under the soil. Place a stone or pin on top to keep it in place. Water the stem section well; it should root in two to three weeks. To propagate via cuttings, take six-inch sections from mature plants in fall. Root the cuttings in the soil you use to cultivate your vines. Using rooting hormone isn’t necessary, but it ensures each cutting roots. In about three months you’ll have new growth indicating your vines are ready for the garden.
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"Here you will find easy step-by-step instructions that will result in the best juiciest turkey you will ever have! cooking the turkey breast-side down will create a tender juicy turkey without brining or using other methods --- if you are stuffing the turkey you will need approximately 8 cups of prepared stuffing for an 18-pound turkey --- the cooking time for this recipe is for an 18-pound stuffed turkey cooked at 325 degrees F but you have the option of stuffing or not --- my best advise for a beginner is to use a meat thermometer inserted in the breast area, this way you will be assured that your turkey is cooked to the proper temperature, you can cover the uncooked stuffed turkey with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight and just pop it in the oven the following mid-morning or whenever you are ready to cook the turkey --- make certain that you have lots of chicken broth handy for this recipe as you will most likely need to keep adding more into the pan while cooking.
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A delicious deep dish pizza baked to perfection in a Dutch Oven. Hearty enough to satisfy the appetite being outdoors brings!
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Healthy, decadent, amazingly creamy AND low-carb. Finally, a guilt-less alfredo dish that the entire family can enjoy! 203.6 calories.
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Best ever red wine braised short ribs. So tender, so fall-off-the-bone amazing. Serve over mashed potatoes – SO SO GOOD.
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