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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
gardening experts
As conscientious gardeners, we strive to improve our corners of the world and to steward pollinators for a whole host of reasons. They pollinate our food crops, many of which require insect pollination to produce fruit. Meanwhile, they also improve the look of our ornamentals and boost seed production to expand the colony. Insects offer natural pest control, as some beneficial species are predators for common garden pests like aphids and scale. They’re an important part of the food web for birds, reptiles, and small mammals. And when it comes to butterflies, they’re beautiful visitors who enliven the space with their fluttering. No pollinator garden would be complete without growing milkweed. Milkweed is the sole larval host plant for monarch butterflies, whose population is in decline. It also serves a variety of other insects and caterpillars. Its naturalistic, easy-care habit and sweet ornamental bloom clusters are a delight. While planting milkweed is broadly beneficial, growing it comes with a sort of nuanced responsibility. Not all native species are a fit for our individual sites or the pollinators we intend to support. The right kind of milkweed for our area can get highly specific, and for good reason. The availability of regional native milkweed becomes an integral part of monarch migration patterns and survival. Here are our top milkweed growing tips for a lovely butterfly habitat!
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Are you shopping for arborvitae but aren't sure which variety to choose? The ‘Green Giant’ has a lot to offer gardeners. In this article, gardening expert Jill Drago details everything you need to know about planting, growing, and caring for ‘Green Giant’ arborvitae. Arborvitae are evergreen shrubs that are popular for hedging. You can find a handful of arborvitae varieties at your local garden center, but if you are looking for a very large and dependable variety, ‘Green Giant’ is a great choice. These shrubs are easy to grow, but if you are looking for a few tips on how to get your shrubs started off on the right foot you’ve come to the right place. In this article, I will help you decide if this is the right shrub for your yard and help you learn how to care for it. Let’s dig in! The ‘Green Giant’ arborvitae is a lovely evergreen shrub that soars to high heights. Often used for a privacy screen, this arborvitae has many uses within our gardens. It is low maintenance and quick growing. Lush deep green foliage will grow into a pyramidal shape. This shrub does not lose its shape easily and makes for perfect hedges, privacy screens, or specimen plants. This popular hedging plant is a hybrid between the Western Red Cedar and Japanese Arborvitae. Therefore, this variety is not technically native to any region. However, it is very adaptable to a variety of climates. ‘Green Giant’ is an evergreen conifer. Each branch is tightly packed with scale-like leaves, giving this shrub a full and lush appearance. It will reach towering heights of 60 feet and grow up to 18 feet wide. This shrub naturally grows into an elegant pyramidal shape that is easy to tend to and does not require pruning to maintain. ‘Green Giant’ arborvitae are typically found at garden centers in plastic nursery pots or balled and burlapped. Either way, the planting method is the same!
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Are sunflowers annuals or perennials? We dig into the world of the Helianthus species to learn more about these garden favorites! Sunflowers are commonly used in many sunny gardens since, unsurprisingly, sunflowers demand full sun. Whether you grow sunflowers for the seeds, beauty, or birds, sunflowers are a bright addition to both edible and flower gardens and will add a pop of color. If you like to plant the same types of flowers in the same place, you may be wondering, are sunflowers annuals or perennials? There are both annual and perennial sunflowers available. Even in the Helianthus family overall, which we’ll look at in this article, you’ll find both annuals and perennials. You may be surprised to find out that you can tell which type a sunflower is by taking a close look at several parts of the flower! Let’s take a look at how to identify annual and perennial sunflowers. We’ll also talk about the difference between them and look at some specific varieties so you can start thinking about which ones you’d like to add to your garden. How to Identify Annuals and Perennials Identifying annual and perennial sunflowers is easy once you know what you’re looking for. But first, let’s review the differences between the two. Annuals complete their life cycle in one year. You can plant a seed in the spring, watch it grow through summer, and it will die soon after. The only way the annual sunflower can “come back” is by dropping seeds at the end of its life cycle. Perennial sunflowers, on the other hand, will last for more than one year. They won’t die back completely and will return the following year from the same plant rather than seeds it dropped the previous year. Depending on your garden’s conditions and the plant’s health, a perennial sunflower can come back for several years. Now then, let’s consider how you can tell these two types of flowers apart. Sprouting Time When you leave sunflowers to do their thing, you’ll notice that perennial sunflowers typically come back in early spring, while annual sunflower seeds won’t germinate until late spring. Perennials are more established and can withstand cooler temperatures, while seeds are more delicate and have to wait for the soil to warm up enough before sprouting. Blooming You can determine what type of sunflower seeds you have by waiting to see if they bloom later in the year. Annual sunflowers bloom the same year they’re planted, while perennials won’t develop blooms until the second year. Since perennials will come back, they take a year to develop roots and stems to be fully established before blooming. Growth If you have multiple types of sunflowers growing in the same space, their growth habits are the easiest way to tell which is which. Fast-growing annuals germinate quickly once they’re in the optimal temperature and will continue to grow quickly through the growing season and into early fall. Perennials germinate and grow slowly since they’re playing the long game and intend to stick around for a while. If you have full-grown flowers that are well established, look at their stems. Annuals will have one thick main stem and may have several smaller ones shooting off of it. Perennials are clump-forming and will have several stems coming out of the ground rather than just one. Roots Perhaps one of the most undeniable ways to determine if your sunflowers are annual or perennial is to look at their roots. It’s not necessarily the most convenient way to tell them apart, but a little bit of digging will be telling. Annual sunflowers are often tall and mighty but here for a short time, so they grow a deep taproot with smaller, thin roots coming off of it. Perennials are here to stay and have to survive winter, so they develop rhizomes for storage to keep them alive. You won’t have to dig too far to find the rhizomes, so it should be fairly easy to find them. Seeds Seeds are probably the more difficult way to determine what kind of sunflower you have, but you can use them to make a guess. Annuals tend to have large seed heads, which is typically the largest part of the flower. The seeds are also sizable. If you think about it, it makes sense for the flowers to be this way since they spread by dropping seeds. The plant needs to focus on the seeds so the species can live to see another day. Perennial varieties are a bit trickier. Heirloom perennials generally have small seed heads and seeds since the plants can spread by the roots. Heirlooms are the “original” type of flower and haven’t been bred to have special traits. But, some hybrid varieties, which are a cross between two different species, may have bigger seeds. The seed heads will likely remain small, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’ll always be the case.
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If you’ve heard the snap and crack during a winter weather event, you’ve experienced the dread of a fallen limb or, worse, an entire tree. Garden expert Katherine Rowe looks at the best care for trees after a heavy snowfall to prevent further damage. Trees are the “bones” of the garden and those strong, magnificent bearers of everything from ornamental appeal and shade to soil stabilization, carbon sequestration, and wildlife nesting and forage. While able to withstand all kinds of conditions, heavy, wet snowfall and ice are a lot (literally) for tree branches to hold, causing them to be damaged under the weight. Winter and early spring storms can bring snow, ice, and high winds to cold climates. They also do severe damage in warmer areas that traditionally don’t experience wintry conditions. Specimens with multi stems or brittle limbs are most susceptible to breakage, but all trees can incur damage in winter extremes. How we address heavy snowfall is important in aftercare for susceptible branches, and the proper management keeps us from doing unintentional damage. Preventative measures help overall tree health in withstanding winter weather. Know the Most Susceptible Trees Both deciduous and evergreen tree species are susceptible to damage from heavy snowfall and ice. To hone in on those in your landscape with the greatest tendency to break, here are a few to keep an eye on: Weak-wooded and fast-growing deciduous species like cottonwood, ash, elm, willow, poplar Multistemmed selections like birch, arborvitae, juniper Trees with more than one central leader (main branch) Wide spreading canopies, horizontal branching Those with poor form (deep v-shaped or narrow angles) and deadwood Aged specimens After Care Once the snow falls or ice forms, there are measures to address weighted stems and any resulting breakage. One of the best first steps is to wait until ice and snow naturally melt in warming sunshine, usually a quick process, to assess the damage. For personal safety, we can’t overstate the importance of not standing beneath or working on large trees or branches impacted by heavy snowfall and winter damage. Limbs and entire trunks can snap or uproot at any time due to wet, saturated conditions. Interacting with branches can promote movement and cracking or dislodge hangers. Let snow and ice naturally melt in these cases, and enlist a certified arborist to assess preservation measures post-storm. Snow If heavy snowfall, not ice, is the main event, tend to young and small trees to dislodge the pack and prevent damage. When limbs bend under the weight of heavy snowfall, it’s tempting to give them a hardy shake. Vigorous shaking, though, can cause too much bounceback as stems are flexible. The snapback with the snow lifted may cause splitting. Instead of big shaking, do so lightly. You can also sweep the snow off the branch in an upward motion, keeping the weight off the end of the bending stem. Alternatively, lifting the branch is a safe means of displacement. Using a broom handle or other pole, lift the limb from below for subtle movement. Stand aside and watch for falling branches and snow as you lift. Don’t hit the stem to shed snow; it can damage bark and tissue. Ice Ice storms often do the most damage, sweeping lots of small and large debris from trees in a single event. To view the destruction of a severe ice storm is equivocal to the aftermath of a hurricane. A layer of ice makes stems brittle, and working with them leads to easy breakage. Ice is best left to melt in the sun, as opposed to using hot or cold water to accelerate melting on an above-freezing day. Water adds weight through saturation, and hot water can cause tissue damage in addition. Avoid lifting or shaking icy branches. If the tree shows bending, add a support prop to discourage further weight, but avoid trying to raise the branch. Remove the prop once the ice melts so branches can naturally return to shape. Treating Breakage If damage is minimal (like small twigs and branches), the woody grower will rejuvenate on its own in coming seasons. Breaks that need attention are ragged cuts, hanging limbs, and those not at a growth point. Consider pruning as a means toward recovery if: the tree is otherwise healthy the primary trunk and most significant branches are intact at least 50% of the crown remains the remainder is sound When a limb breaks, it can leave a jagged, splintered cut in the branch or junction point. Make a clean cut when possible to minimize exposed tissue. Reducing exposure prevents subsequent wound damage like moisture and disease intrusion. Trees are adept at healing, and a clean cut is a good foundation for warding off pathogens. New growth emerges at a healthy node before the cut. Trim back any small stem breaks to the first healthy branch. If the end of a large branch is gone, trim it back to a healthy branching node for growth to develop around the tip. On conifers, damage to the central leader is recoverable by pruning it back for new leaders to develop. Continued pruning fosters the best shape for sturdy, wind-resistant forms. Topping, removing, or reducing leaders on all trees results in less structural integrity. They become prone to future weakness and wind toppling. Tree Tying Tying the branches of susceptible evergreen trees is a means of preventing winter damage before a heavy snowfall or storm. This is most feasible for small specimens and young trees. In this method, branches are bundled upward toward the trunk using soft, flexible ties. The aim is to prevent weighty snow from accumulating. It also protects against ice damage. To tie stems, wrap flexible material (bungee cords, fabric strips, nylon hose) around the entire conifer. Create a cone shape with a gentle binding to support stems and shed snow. Remove the ties after the threat passes or late in the season as conditions moderate. Protective Barriers If you have a spot in your yard prone to drifts or piling, like snow sliding off a peaked roof, installing a temporary barrier is an option. These can stay in place all winter to protect individual specimens or go in for the short term before a storm. Wooden Structures Basic wooden structures become reusable forms to hold heavy snowfall off the tree. Repurpose wooden boards to build an A-frame or box structure around the tree. Secure the pieces using nails, screws, or hinges. With the frame in place, use a tarp, plastic sheeting, burlap, or landscape fabric to cover it during the weather event. Staple or tie the cover to the frame. After the weather clears, remove the cover to allow exposure to sunlight, moisture, and airflow. Keep the frame in place for the season, replacing the cover as needed. If leaving the cover in place for extended periods, opt for burlap since it’s breathable. In spring, store the frame for next year or repurpose the wood. Evergreen Boughs Clip evergreen boughs or repurpose your Christmas tree to position against small trees and shrubs. The added coverage collects and displaces snowfall. Arrange the boughs by leaning them against the existing growth so snow slides down and off. The extra insulation also helps against ice. Managing Bent Branches Leaders and stems may show a bent form even after the snow and ice passes. Without breakage present, they’ll likely rebound over time. Resist the urge to prop or tie them up. Let them reform naturally to minimize weakness or breakage. If drooping, bending, or distorting is still evident by early summer, strapping and wooden supports can help train the stems. Use tree staking supplies like flexible straps or fabric strips tied to bamboo or other wooden stakes for repositioning. Take off the strapping in one or two growing seasons to avoid girdling as the tree grows. Preventative Pruning Pruning contributes to long-term health and improves resistance against winter injury. The goal of preventative pruning is to direct growth to retain a sturdy structural form. Leave big cuts and structural decisions to professional arborists. Prune out dead, diseased, or crossing limbs any time of year. Stop any pruning by late summer to avoid generating new growth. Tender stems are susceptible to weakness and winter dieback, potentially damaging the limb in freezing situations. Pruning deciduous trees during dormancy allows full visibility of structure and form while growth is inactive. Pruning when dormant doesn’t promote new growth until temperatures warm. Prune to develop a central leader (primary branch) and a scaffolding structure suitable to the species. Start with young trees to foster the best form and strength.
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Use your yummy leftovers to make this Hearty Sandwich. It will be a big hit.
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