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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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Looking for easy flowers? Bachelor's buttons come in a range of shades in blue, pink, and purple! Lorin Nielsen explains these easy annuals and provides all the tips you need to grow them for a beautiful wild garden.One of my favorite flowers, bachelor’s buttons, is sometimes called cornflowers. And from there, the color “cornflower blue” derives its name! Also called basket flowers, blue bonnets, blue cap, and many other names, this popular plant is a hardy annual. It blooms in an array of color from early spring through the fall months. Leave some of the spent flowers on the plant, and it’ll happily reseed its bed and grow again next year. But what are bachelor’s buttons, and are they all blue? Do they prefer sunlight or shade? How much water do they need? We’ll cover all this and more today as we explore the world of the bachelor’s buttons!Botanically, it’s called Centaurea cyanus and commonly called bachelor button, blue cornflower, or bachelor’s buttons. This name refers to old folklore. Young love-struck men would wear them on their lapels. If the early flowering bloom faded fast, it was thought the object of their desire didn’t love them.Bachelor’s button has a long list of names, including unusual ones like blue blob, corn bottle, gogglebuster, and hurt sickle. One name, cornflower, originated from the tendency of these plants to grow as native plants in European cornfields. It is also found naturally in areas of the Middle East. While declining in its natural habitat, the growth of this plant worldwide has expanded via gardens designed for cut flowers. Many varieties are blue. However, bachelor’s buttons can be pink, purple, and white as well. This annual’s self-sowing tendency has caused them to become listed on the USDA’s list of introduced, invasive, and noxious plants. North Carolina has become so plagued by it that selling its seeds or live plants is prohibited in that state! Try planting in a container if you live in this plant’s invasive area.Grey-green or silvery-green slender foliage with long, lanceolate leaves forms the base upon which bright flowers form. It can reach up to three feet in height and can sprawl out one to two feet wide. The greyish or silvery tint is actually caused by fine white hairs on the leaves. Their edible flowers can be used in salads as a touch of added color. Petals are often dried and added to loose tea blends for a pop of color. In addition, the flowers are a historical pigment or dye source for painting or dyeing fabric.To plant bachelor’s buttons, choose a spot with full sun and well-draining soil. Loosen the soil to a depth of six to eight inches and mix in compost to enrich it. Sow the seeds directly outdoors after the last frost, spacing them six to eight inches apart. Cover the seeds lightly with about a quarter of an inch of soil, and water gently to keep the soil evenly moist until germination, which usually takes seven to ten days. Once established, the plants require little care, though occasional watering during dry spells will help them thrive.
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Hardy geraniums (those softly mounding perennials with cupped blooms) are durable and offer years of easy color. Award-winning geranium varieties bring the highest performance and ornament, all in an easygoing, adaptable package. Gardening expert Katherine Rowe explores prized geranium varieties to bring the biggest appeal to the landscape and to pollinators, too.Hardy geranium, or cranesbill, features softly mounding, trailing stems and saucers of delicate, deep blue-purple blooms. Flowering begins in spring and, for many prized varieties, continues through frost. In dark to light periwinkle and magenta, violet, white, and pink, the species and their cultivars are a highlight in the border (and we should grow more of them). Not only are hardy geraniums ornamental, but they’re also a rich source of nectar and pollen for pollinators, especially bees. And they’re easy-care, adaptable perennials with few maintenance needs. Their leafy forms and rich blooms soften the border, container, window box, and raised bed arrangement. Let stems trail over a low wall or comingle with neighboring perennials. The palmate, semi-evergreen leaves are attractive year-round, even when not in flower. From gray-green to purple-blotched, the leaves bring dynamic visual interest. Enjoy the graceful beauty of a durable perennial by selecting award-winning geranium varieties.True geraniums (Geranium spp.) differ from zonal or annual types, which are in the same Geraniaceae family but a different species (Pelargonium spp.). While they share the common name of the hardy genus, the tender, annual types have different forms, flowering, and growing requirements. Hardy geraniums are tough and cold hardy, while tender geraniums are frost-sensitive outside of USDA zones 10-11. Geranium spp. (cranesbill) are hardy in USDA zones 3-8. There are nearly 300 species and a sea of cultivars and hybrids. Some cranesbills bloom in spring and early summer, while others last into autumn. They naturalize under optimal conditions, spreading by rhizome and some by seed, but aren’t weedy, aggressive, or competitive with neighboring plants. Many hybrids are sterile, with a long flowering season without seed production. Hardy geraniums are adaptable but grow best in organically rich, well-draining soils with even moisture. Most benefit from shearing after flowering to promote a flush of new growth. But these low-maintenance perennials don’t require deadheading to bloom. Let leaves remain in the fall for a flash of rich green in the frosty garden. As a bonus, deer and rabbits find their texture and aroma unappealing. In hot climates, geraniums benefit from shade protection from the afternoon sun.
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Think all your garden planting has to be done in spring? Not so! Fall is actually an ideal time to plant spring-flowering bulbs, trees, shrubs, and other ornamental and edible perennials, since cooler weather, fewer pests, and warmer soil mean less stress and faster growth for new plants. Spring tends to get all the attention when it comes to new plantings. But after a sweltering summer, I so look forward to planting in fall when the air is cooler (making it easier on my garden and me) but the soil is still warm to encourage roots to grow before the ground freezes. If you’ve been struggling all summer with pests and diseases, the good news is they are much less of an issue in fall. And in my area, we start getting some nice soaking rains as the seasons turn, helping to water in the new garden. One of my favorite “tricks” for filling in a landscape on the cheap is planting perennials in the fall. (Yes, even in my hardiness zone 5 microclimate that gets snow—I live in the high desert of Central Oregon.) All of my local stores start putting their remaining inventory on clearance in late summer, so I can snap up quite a few deals on flower bulbs, trees, shrubs, and other perennials. (Of course, that also means I can’t be as picky with the selection, but what I can’t find locally, I source online—where many of my favorite sites also offer end-of-season sales.) If you get these plants in the ground before your area gets hit with a hard frost, you’ll be treated to beautiful blooms and color in the spring!
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Growing mizuna to add to salads, soups, or stir-fries is incredibly easy. Our complete growing guide provides you with our top tips! Stir-fries in spring and salads in the middle of summer both have one thing in common – the peppery and wonderful vegetable that is mizuna! An addition to the garden that produces early in the season and can tolerate the type of weather fluctuations that gardener nightmares are made of, these wonderful little plants will give you harvest after harvest of delicious greens for months. Growing mizuna greens should be on the garden plan of any family who loves to cook. Native to the Kansai region of Japan, these seeds have now traveled the globe and are grown in zones USDA 3-10. They were also grown in outer space as part of a vegetable growing experiment on the International Space Station! These distinctive plants spring up from the soil almost overnight and make great salad, stir-fries, and shabu-shabu among other dishes. Traditionally, many chefs have pickled the mizuna’s tender green leaves to make a variety of side dishes. Some plant mizuna varieties that are purple because of the presence of anthocyanin, the same compound that turns blueberries blue! Similar to the taste of arugula, you can tell them apart by the distinct mustard aftertaste of the mizuna. This plant does especially well when grown in rotation with legumes. A heavy nitrogen feeder, it will happily soak up the nitrogen that legumes ‘fix’ in the soil. All About Mizuna Japanese mizuna greens have long been a staple of Asian cooking, as the plant originated in Japan. Like other greens mizuna go by a long list of names like Japanese mustard, potherb mustard, California peppergrass, shui kai, and spider mustard. A peppery and spicy vegetable, this versatile addition to the garden can be grown year-round in some regions and is valued for its wonderful nutritional content. A member of the brassica family, it’s actually in the same family as cabbage. Unlike other brassicas, mizuna can tolerate heat and cold weather to a better extent. Mizuna greens are foot-tall clumps of green serrated leaves with thin stems. While some cultivars also produce purple leaves like ‘Mizuna Crimson Tide’, this plant is added to gardens almost exclusively for its leaves. A quick grower, small grey seeds quickly sprout into sturdy leaves in small circular clumps. Near the end of the plant’s life, it will bolt and go to seed-producing small yellow flowers on long green spikes above the plant. Planting Mizuna It’s best (and easy!) to grow mizuna from seed. A small round grey seed roughly the size of a lentil, it’s easy to sow. Sow seeds to 1/4th to 1/2 inch deep in well-drained rich soil. Plant in rows 18-24 inches apart. After sowing seeds, plants will germinate in 4-7 days if temps are between 45-85 degrees. Once the seedlings reach 1 inch in height, thin to 6 inches apart. You can expect a harvest 3 to 6 weeks after germination. It’s best to plan on planting your seeds two weeks after the last frost, but if grown in areas with no frost, mizuna can be planted in the garden in late summer. Care A hardy choice, mizuna has a few basic growing requirements. Plant mizuna in a sunny area with well-draining and fertilized soil and you’re already off to a great start! Sun and Temperature A great choice for a northern garden that gets the occasional late frost, mizuna is a hardy little green that once established can take a sudden and unexpected frost. As such, it can be one of the earliest crops in the garden. Likewise, for a southern garden, these plants can tolerate hotter weather than most other greens. Able to grow in USDA zones 3-10; mizuna grows best in the full sun of the day but can tolerate partial shade. Requiring 10-12 hours of sunlight, try planting in an area that will receive little if any shade. Additionally, sow several inches apart so that fully grown plants don’t shade out plants that are regenerating themselves. Water and Humidity Moist soil is the key to happy mizuna! Its leaves contain a great deal of water, and if the soil dries out, it can cause your mizuna to go to seed. Mizuna greens need to be watered in the morning, preferably on a drip system. Early in its life, try watering your mizuna twice a week to keep the soil evenly wet. After the leaves grow and shade the soil surrounding itself, decrease to once a week. Water one inch a week, and add a light mulch of straw or fine wood chips around the seedlings. In spring and fall, reduce watering if the soil becomes waterlogged. In Summer, monitor the soil if it dries out quickly in heat or warm winds. Soil It’s best to grow mizuna greens in well-drained rich soil. Ideally, amend the soil with compost or sterilized manure before sowing seed. Mizuna thrives in most soils but needs a pH of between 6.0-7.5. If growing in containers, coco coir is a great choice as it aids in drainage. But again, don’t allow it to dry out as it will start to go to seed. Fertilizing Mizuna greens have very simple fertilization requirements. As these plants are grown for their leaves they need a lot of nitrogen! When you first sow your seeds, work well-rotted manure into the soil. This will provide nitrogen early in the plant’s life. After about one month, apply a liquid seaweed solution or fish emulsion to keep the mizuna growing well. Reapply every month or so or as needed. Pruning Mizuna greens are a very rewarding crop. As it’s easy to grow mizuna, once established, mizuna will tolerate several rounds of cutting. Once the leaves reach between 10-12 inches in length, cut the stems to about 1 inch off the ground. It’s best to use a sharp or serrated knife and cut parallel to the ground. After cutting, water the area and ensure the soil stays moist. In a few short weeks, you’ll be able to harvest again! Propagation Mizuna greens are exclusively grown from seed. A fast-growing harvest, either sow seed or purchase seedlings. Seeds are hardy as well! They have great viability when saved for up to 4 years! Harvesting and Storing Harvesting mizuna is as simple as snipping a delicious green leaf. A great cut and come again option, this Japanese mustard is a bountiful addition to the garden. Harvesting Mizuna, like any green, can be eaten at even the earliest stages of growth. However, it’s best to harvest mizuna between 20 and 40 days after germination. Many gardeners like this Japanese green when it’s still in a relatively young stage as tender greens. Others prefer to let this green get upwards of 10 inches long before harvesting. Cut the greens at the base of the leaf leaving inner growth undisturbed. Storing Once picked, store unwashed mizuna greens in a salad spinner or breathable bag in the fridge. Make sure to avoid storing in a sealed plastic bag as this will cause the green leaves to immediately begin to decay. For long-term storage, try pickling your greens. Japanese chefs and home cooks have long been pickling these sturdy greens and using them as a condiment. Pickling is a common method of preservation in Asian cooking. Many recipes abound for pickled side dishes. A short search will bring up lots of delicious options! Troubleshooting You’re in luck! Mizuna greens are a relatively easy plant to grow. Monitor outdoor temps, keep your soil moist, and use a row cover and you’ll likely have a trouble-free crop in a month or so! Growing Problems Mizuna greens are a very hardy green. Able to withstand warm summer weather better than most other greens, you can harvest mizuna up into the 80’s. Keep in mind however that it can bolt. Bolting happens when your mizuna tries to reproduce and grows seeds for another generation of plants. To avoid bolting, ensure that the soil around the base is continuously moist as dryness will trigger the plant to reproduce. Alternatively, if you’re expecting weather over 85 degrees, you can expect to see the end of harvest. Pests Flea beetles are the primary pest you’ll come across when caring for mizuna. These beetles lay their eggs on the soil surface not too far from the stalks. The larvae hatch and eat holes in the stems and leaves. To prevent flea beetles, cover your crop with a row cover, this prevents the beetles from physically laying their eggs anywhere near your plants. Aphids are small light green bugs about 1/8th of an inch long. They usually appear in groups and suck the sap of the plant. They multiply rapidly and can kill a plant by eating too much and introducing disease into the weakened plant. Use insecticidal soap & pyrethrum to control. Diseases Mizuna greens are not very susceptible to disease. The one exception is damping off, a disease most likely to happen when you sow seeds in trays indoors. Damping-off presents as a fuzzy mold on top of the soil and stems that appear shrunken or eaten. There is no cure, but it can be prevented by increasing ventilation or spreading sulfur powder over the affected areas to stop the spread to surrounding seedlings.
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We’re hot and spicy… literally!
These potatoes are incredibly tender on the inside yet amazingly crisp on the outside – the perfect side dish to any meal!
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"I have been using this recipe for many years, my family loves this gravy and I have served it to dinner guests over the holidays and always receive rave reviews! --- you don't need to make this gravy using all pan drippings, if you do not have 4 cups of drippings you may mix with chicken broth to make the 4 cups, or it may be made with only chicken broth, please see note on the bottom of the recipe--- this may be made slightly ahead and kept uncovered on top of the stove until ready to serve, just whisk before using If you have any left over this gravy freezes very well or you may reduce all ingredients down to half and for a thinner gravy reduce flour by 1 tablespoon --- also see my recipe#314890 for more of my recipes visit www.kittencalskitchen.com"
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"From Delicious magazine. This will serve two people so you will need to adjust for more. **Please Note - A tablespoon for this recipe is the Australian tablespoon, 20ml or 1 American tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon."
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Ranch dressing, bacon and cheese make these swirls a delicious baked appetizer for your next party or get together!
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