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- From Garden to Plate: Fresh Flavors, Naturally Grown
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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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When it comes to growing your own food, you want to consume the healthiest produce and ensure that you are continuing the safest practices possible. This is why organic gardening and the techniques associated with it are so important in our day and age. While much of the world has given themselves over to GMO (genetically modified organism) plants with unknown chemical compositions, organically focused growers are continuing onward with traditional methods that are thousands of years old. Not only is this the most feasible option, it is also the most nutritious and most logical way to grow our food. When growing organic food, you know exactly what you are going to be putting into your mouth, rather than the modern practice of ignoring unknown chemicals and mutations in your food. This means that you are going to avoid unknown complications from chemically induced mutations and will logically ensure that you are only eating food that you know is healthy for you. This practice has been proven to improve your health and comes with no unknown health risks, unlike the alternative. Organic gardening challenges and rewards Growing using more traditional methods does come with some challenges that seem unique in our current world. While GMO plants grow under almost any conditions, cultivating natural varieties takes more time and added attention to their proper growing conditions. This can manifest in the form of extended growing times, shade requirements, soil drainage needs, and even fertilizer needs. However, these challenges have been around for centuries and there are easy solutions available for each and every one of them. Growing in this manner does have a number of benefits outside of health as well. There are exciting opportunities to create familial heirloom varieties that can be passed on to newer generations or cross bred with other gardener’s crops. This is possible because heirloom seeds and plants grown using natural methods maintain their ability to produce viable seeds, something that mainstream crops have lost. This lack of terminal seeds makes breeding and continuing on centuries old traditions easy and cost efficient. Organic gardening preparation When choosing to create an organic garden you will need to ensure that you have the correct tools, soil, and maintenance plan in place. The best way to accomplish this is by researching the crop that you want to buy, purchasing seeds from a reputable breeder, and then following their instructions for the crop. Any good breeder will give you information about the soil, shade, water, and growth needs of the seeds that they sell. Heal the worldThe next step is to ensure that your soil is the right condition for the seeds and that it will be able to sustain life. This is usually accomplished by getting a soil test and then correcting for any deficiencies in the soil. When doing this you should avoid any and all commercial treatments as they contain unknown components and can damage the soil or transfer over to your produce. Instead, organic matter such as manure, moss, clippings, and fungi can be introduced and tilled into the soil to create the correct nutrient profile. Organic garden maintenance Once you have begun growing your crop you will want to ensure that you continue with natural maintenance methods. Avoid chemical additives like Miracle Grow for water, commercial potting soils, and any root additives. It is also important to avoid any pesticides and sprays that contain inorganic compounds. Remember, anything that you put in the ground, on your plants, or into the water can end up in your mouth and in your body as well. Depending on the variety that you have chosen to plant you may have different harvest times. It is important to keep track of approximate dates and to check on your plants every single day. When growing traditional produce you will have a much shorter time to harvest and utilize your crop as they have not been engineered with preservatives. However, this means that they will always taste fresh when they are picked and will have a much fuller flavor profile than anything you buy at the store. Any fruit or vegetable that you grow using organic methods will be healthier and have a better taste than chemically treated foods. The unadulterated flavors contained within your harvested goods will ensure that all of your food has vibrant and exciting flavors. By avoiding the chemical infestation of modern GMO foods you prevent traditional breeding and growth methods from stalling and ensure that a new generation of real food will be created and enjoyed by health conscious individuals.
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Banana plants are often seen as wild-looking trees that give off lush jungle vibes in a landscape, but they can also be grown successfully in containers outside or as houseplants inside. The trick is giving them conditions they love (hint: plenty of sun) and choosing the right varieties for your space and climate.The common name “banana plant” is applied to a bunch of different species in the genus Musa, the bananas and plantains. The genus contains some 70 different plants, most of which aren’t edible or just not very pleasant to eat due to their large seeds. A hybrid called Musa × paradisiaca is said to be the parent of most edible banana cultivars.Edible bananas, the result of domestication and selective cultivation by humans, have been around for a long time. Research has indicated that the cultivation of bananas, now one of the most common crops worldwide, began around 7,000 years ago in Southeast Asia. There are now estimated to be well over 1,000 different cultivars out there. Banana plants are often confused with palms (hence their misnomer “banana palm”), but they actually form part of the order Zingiberales, alongside plants like ginger and Strelitzia (bird-of-paradise, another popular houseplant). And while they’re usually referred to as “banana trees,” they are classified botanically as herbaceous perennials because they never form a woody stem (aka a trunk) the way a tree does—the “trunks” are actually succulent stalks (pseudostems).Banana “trees” are characterized by their massive foliage, which are quite fragile. In banana trees kept outdoors, the leaves usually look torn and shredded, but this doesn’t bother the plant itself. Because banana plants die off after blooming but produce plenty of offsets (also known as pups or shoots) before doing so, mature ones that have been left to grow wild will often consist of a bunch of different stems growing together.
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Gingko trees are geological relics that bring history and beauty to our landscapes. Join gardening expert Logan Hailey as she shares how to grow and care for gingko trees. Considered living fossils, ginkgo trees are among the last of their kind. These stunning 25 to 80-foot-tall trees have uniquely fan-shaped leaves that turn vibrant golden-yellow in the autumn. As the last surviving members of the ancient Ginkgoacaeae plant family, these tremendous trees are geological relics that make enchanting landscape specimens for fall color. Although they are native to China, these trees grow well in most parts of the United States, from USDA zones 3 through 9. Ginkgos are known for their memory-enhancing herbal qualities, but the seeds of female trees can also be quite stinky if left on the ground. Fortunately, seedless all-male cultivars are now available to avoid the smelly cleanup. Let’s dig into everything you need to know about planting and growing this living fossil in your yard! Native to China, ginkgo trees have been admired for hundreds of thousands of years in gardens, ornamental landscapes, and urban parks. The oldest known ginkgo tree in North America is located in South Philly’s Bartram’s Garden, allegedly planted in the 1700s. But the oldest ginkgo in the world is over 3,000 years old and grows outside a Buddhist temple in Xi’an City, China. The long-lived trees show no signs of slowing down, and many speculate that they get more vibrant and healthy as they age. In the fall, the ground beneath each tree is shockingly blanketed with golden-yellow leaves that shine through even the foggiest days. If you plant one in your yard, you can enjoy an equally stunning show that will reliably return every year for generations to come. Ginkgo biloba is among the oldest living tree species. The deciduous tree is the last remaining species of the ancient Ginkgoacaeae family. Sometimes called maidenhair trees, the distinctive fan-shaped leaves turn extraordinarily bright yellow in the fall. The massive trees grow up to 80 feet tall and can live for thousands of years, earning them the title of “living fossils.” Gingko is notable for its medicinal qualities for the brain and memory. The tree’s extracts have been used as an herbal medicine for many centuries, and modern science has proven the neurological benefits for memory enhancement, as well as prevention of dementia and Alzheimer’s disease. Intriguingly, this ancient tree is quite tolerant of drought and urban pollution, making it a popular landscaping tree for city streets, parks, and buildings. It is virtually pest-and-disease-free and tolerates cold weather. The trees can be planted as large single-specimen shade trees or at a closer spacing for a privacy hedge. The pyramidal shape and few branches make for a striking focal point, and the fan-shaped leaves turn from pretty green to striking gold every fall. Gingkos are dioecious, meaning they have separate male and female trees. The male trees are preferred for cultivation because the female trees can be stinky. Female trees produce yellow cherry-like “fruits” that dangle in pairs. The fleshy fruit-like structure is actually a seed that resembles a plum seed or a nut. These nuts are traditionally used in soups and medicines. Gingko “fruits” are not technically fruits, but rather fleshy seed ovaries. They are notoriously stinky when they fall to the ground. A gorgeous row of ginkgos grew on my college campus and regularly shed their “fruits” on the ground every fall. The orangish-tan fleshy seeds were so pretty, yet they smelled like vomit as they rotted on the concrete. It is a smell you will never forget! Horticulturalists have struggled to properly sex-identify the trees when they’re young, but by propagating with cuttings or using the male-only cultivars that we will discuss below, you can ensure a sleek, stink-free landscape. The trees naturally grow straight up with a pyramidal structure averaging 40 to 80 feet tall but often exceeding 100 feet at maturity. Dwarf varieties are also available. The bark is fissured and gray with a corky texture. As trees age, the bark becomes more deeply furrowed like an ancient wrinkled wise being. The interior wood is light-colored and soft and was once used for religious furniture. However, it is too soft to serve structural purposes, and nobody wants to cut down a living fossil! Gingko leaves are fan-shaped with irregular toothing along the widest edge. There is a distinctive notch that splits the leaves into two lobes, hence the name bi-loba, as in “two.” The leaves are cheery lime green and turn dull and grayish in the summer, then yellow and eventually gold in the autumn. They stay on the tree late into the season for long-lasting color, then rapidly fall at the same time, creating a pretty skirt of gold. The leaves are most commonly used in herbal extractions for memory-enhancing supplements and teas. These tremendous ancient species are native to China and grow throughout the world as ornamental and medicinal plants. Ginkgo biloba trees date back over 270 million years to the Permian Period when Earth’s crustal plates were still in the single continental formation of Pangea. About 70% of terrestrial plant and animal species on Earth went extinct during this era, but the majestic ginkgo survived. Ginkgo trees are widely cultivated but are listed as highly endangered in the wild. Planting one in your yard can help preserve an ancient species (though clearly, ginkgos don’t need much help from humans to survive through the ages). An interesting fact about ginkgos is that they are gymnosperms, which means “naked seed” in Latin. These trees are so old that they pre-date flowering plants! Most gymnosperms are coniferous, like redwoods, pines, and firs, but ginkgos are broadleaf gymnosperms. While their dangling “naked seeds” look similar to fruits, they are technically naked ovules or kernels with a fleshy covering. The trees don’t produce any flowers; instead, the pollen from a male tree reaches the open ovules of a female tree, and they fertilize each other. While you can propagate ginkgo from seed, it is more common to propagate by cutting so you can ensure you have a male tree that won’t drop any stinky seeds in your yard. Grafting is sometimes used to jumpstart a new tree.
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All About Ube Before we get started, let’s clear up the yam/sweet potato confusion. Though they look and taste similar, these aren’t the same plants. Sweet potato is actually part of the morning glory family while winged yam is part of the “true yam family”. Dioscorea alata is grown all around the world, so it has many different names. The common name winged yam comes from the stem’s appearance. It’s square-shaped with flat ridges, or “wings”, lining the corners. You may also hear it called “water yam”, which is referring to the tuber’s high water content. These plants are also referred to as “ube” or “ubi” in Phillippine cuisine. Winged yam is such an old plant that its exact origin is unknown, though it’s believed to have come from Southeast Asia. Called a cultigen, this species has only been known in cultivation and may even be a hybrid. It came to North America in the 1500s, when it was introduced to Florida by the Spanish and Portugeuse. Today, ube root crop remains a staple food in Southeast Asia, West Africa, and South America – especially the Philippines. There, it’s used primarily in desserts from cake to ice cream to frappes. Despite its popularity as a dessert-dish, some countries have replaced winged yam with the sweet potato and other crops. In the US, winged yam has gotten a little out of hand. They’re ruthless plants that will take over any space they find. Winged yam has escaped cultivation in the southern United States, the Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. It’s so destructive that the Florida exotic pest plant council has registered it as a fully-fledged invasive species. As gardeners of this plant, we’re responsible for keeping it contained. It’s not exactly high-maintenance, but growing and containing winged yam is no small feat. The vines have been known to reach 20-30 feet tall, often climbing nearby trees. They grow so quickly that some gardeners have reported 8 inches of growth in a single day. The vines aren’t the only thing busy growing. Each plant sports one underground tuber. If left unharvested, the tubers will grow and grow until they’ve reached 8 feet long. Sometimes, the vines will grow smaller, aerial tubers above ground (similar to the air potato). These bulbils are meant to develop into new plants and are excellent for propagation. It may be fast-growing, but these plants aren’t invincible. They only last through the winter in zones 9-11. In colder locations, they must be grown as an annual. Come harvest time, it’s vital that you make sure you cook the tubers completely before eating as they’re toxic when raw! If any ube tastes bitter, do not eat it. Cooking should render this safe, but the bitterness is a warning sign. Winged Yam Varieties In most places, ube is ube. In others though, especially the Philippines, there are many different varieties of this species. Kinampay is considered the original winged yam species. It’s nicknamed “Queen of Philippine Yams” and has 4 further varietes: tamisan, binanag, kabus-ok, and binato. With these yams, different varieties often mean different colors. While most, such as Zambales, stick to the classic purple, others have varying shades of white. The Basco variety, for example, is white with a lavender tinge. The Leyte variety ranges from a lovely cream color to pink. Planting Like potatoes, winged yam is usually grown by planting chunks of the tuber. You can buy the starter pieces online or acquire some from a friend. Small tubers can be planted whole, while large ones can be cut into several pieces. Let the pieces dry out before planting or sprouting them. In the tropics, Dioscorea alata can be planted any time of year, but usually just after the rainy season. Here in the US, that’s equivalent to spring. Don’t plant your yams in the ground until all chances of frost have passed. It takes anywhere from 3-12 weeks for the tubers to sprout. You can get ahead of schedule by sprouting the yam pieces before planting. Just stick them in a bucket of soil and keep them moist. Once they sprout, you can transplant them into their permanent homes. Before planting in the ground, till the soil well. The growing tubers will appreciate the extra room that loose soil gives it. Plant the tubers 4-5 inches deep and 2 feet apart. It’s recommended to add organic mulch on top to hold in water and prevent weeds. Dioscorea alata can be grown in containers, but you’ll have to watch the size. Use at least a 5-gallon container and harvest the yam before it outgrows its home. Care Winged yam species are pretty rough-and-tumble plants. However, you’ll get the best results by following their care preferences. Here’s what we recommend. Sun and Temperature Give your winged yam full to partial sunlight. Since it’s from the tropics, it likes to be nice and warm; at least 70°F is preferable. If you live in zones 9-11, you can grow these plants as perennials. Otherwise, the weather will only allow this yam to grow seasonally. Freezing temperatures can cause damage to the roots and green growth. Water and Humidity Dioscorea is drought-tolerant, but it thrives best with consistent moisture. Water it whenever the top few inches of the soil begins to dry out. Drip lines or soaker hoses work really well for this plant. When the plants start to die at the end of the growing season, stop watering so they won’t rot. Humidity isn’t a huge factor here, so long as you keep the soil moist during the summer. Soil Dioscorea alata species will grow in a variety of soils. For optimal growth, though, the soil should have all the best features. It should be loamy, fertile, full of organic material, and well-draining. It’s also important that the soil is loose so the tubers can grow easily. A neutral or slightly acidic pH will be fine. Fertilizing Dioscorea alata isn’t too picky about fertilizer as long as it has nutrients. Stock the soil with organic matter before planting and use mulch. If you’d like to give the plant and aerial tubers an extra boost, apply a balanced fertilizer a couple of times during the growing season. Pruning and Training As a climber, this vine will much appreciate a trellis to grow on. Plus, having a support will boost your plant’s growth. When it’s climbing, the vines will spread out and expose more leaf surface for photosynthesis. Use a trellis, fence, or even a host tree. If the vines don’t take to the support on their own, gently wind them around it. If necessary, tie them loosely with a scrap of fabric. If your plant outgrows its support, prune back the vines with sharp, clean clippers. If your Dioscorea alata grows aerial tubers that you don’t plan to propagate, clip them off before they mature. This potentially invasive plant spreads quickly through aerial tubers and we want to keep it under control. Destroy the aerial tubers before throwing them out so they don’t take root in your compost bin. Propagation It’s rare for Dioscorea to flower in much of the United States, so seed isn’t a common propagation method. Instead, gardeners rely on aerial tubers or root propagation. Start off by cutting the root or aerial tubers from the rest of the plant. Unless you have a very small tuber, cut it into several chunks. Each one is a potential Dioscorea alata. After they’re cut, you have to let the pieces dry out for a couple days. Otherwise, the new wounds could quickly rot when planted. To speed up the process, dip the cut end in wood ash. Once dry, bury the pieces in a bucket of dirt and keep it moist. Once they sprout, you can move the baby yams to their permanent home. Harvesting and Storing Get your dessert recipes ready, because it’s harvest time! Each plant is one-and-done, so the process shouldn’t take too long. Harvesting When the tubers are mature, the foliage will yellow and die. This is your cue to grab the shovel and start harvesting. This usually happens from November to January. If the frost is going to hit your area earlier than that, you’ll want to harvest early. Carefully pull up the entire plant, using a shovel if necessary. Remove the tubers from the vine and brush off the dirt. It’s that simple! Ensure that you remove all tubers, aerial tubers, and vines from the ground so nothing is left to its own devices. Otherwise, you may end up with a particularly invasive plant on your hands. If you live in USDA zones 9-11, you have the option of letting your Dioscorea alata grow for 2 or more years. Just leave it in the ground over winter. It will likely shed its leaves and go dormant for at least a few months. The following harvest season, you should have a massive payoff. Storing You can keep your freshly-harvested Dioscorea on the kitchen counter or pantry. It just needs to stay dry or it may sprout. Remember that the tubers are toxic when raw, so you have to cook them completely. It’s also advisable to wear gloves while preparing them. Cook the Dioscorea alata winged yam as you would a potato. Or, if you have a sweet tooth, head over to Pinterest for some Dioscorea dessert recipes like ube cupcakes. If you have a huge tuber, you can remove a piece at a time, and the remaining winged yam will usually be fine. For long-term storage, keep your yams in a dry place. Periodically check for and remove any rotted pieces. Troubleshooting You’re in luck, as there aren’t many problems to deal with when it comes to Dioscorea alata. We’ll go over a few things though, just in case. Growing Problems Greening of tubers happens when they’re exposed to sunlight while growing. It’s a result of the tubers producing chlorophyll, the same chemical responsible for photosynthesis in leaves. Depending on the amount, chlorophyll can be dangerous when eaten by humans. Stay on the safe side and discard any green portions. Prevent this from happening by keeping the tubers covered at all times while they’re growing. If at any time the tubers poke out of the soil, quickly make a mound over it. Pests Root-knot nematodes hit this species right where it hurts: the tuber. They’ll disrupt their growth and cause knots and deformities. Above-ground, you’ll notice stunted growth and yellowing leaves. Prevent these nematodes by tilling the soil well before and after each harvest. You should also use crop rotation with nematode-resistant plants. For existing infestations, try a nematicide. Geraniol and quillaja saponaria based treatments are a good organic option. Alternately, add beneficial nematodes to the soil as they will hunt down and kill the root-knot nematodes. Scale insects, particularly white scales and mealybugs, are common pests that feed on Dioscorea alata juice. They secrete honeydew that attracts ants, which is another pest to eliminate. The best approach is to prevent these insects in the first place. Keeping the soil clear of debris and the plant dry are the best measures. You can also prune infested vines or remove the pests one by one with a dab of rubbing alcohol. For large infestations, try using an insecticidal soap, or beneficial predators such as lacewings or ladybugs. Neem oil or horticultural oil can kill off their eggs. Diseases Anthracnose is a fungal disease that will cause leaf spots on your beautiful Dioscorea alata species. In time, it can yellow and wither the leaves, eventually killing them. This disease usually isn’t fatal to the whole plant, but can definitely affect its growth. Try a dose of neem oil, copper fungicide, or sulfur dust fungicide to treat this fungus. Prevent anthracnose by keeping your plant clean and dry. The mosaic virus creates a “mosaic” of color on the leaves, usually in shades of yellow and green. It sounds pretty, but the coloring is caused by damage to the veins, which are vital to the plant’s health. This disease will stunt Dioscorea alata’s growth and even affect the starch content of the tuber. This virus is typically transmitted by Dioscorea alata cuttings, so ensure that you’re only planting disease-free yams. Insects can also transmit the disease, so arm yourself against any pest problems. There’s no cure for this disease, so prevention is your only weapon.
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My Husband favorite. A one dish meal. You can prepare everything up to putting in the oven, chill, till ready to heat. Serve with a nice crusty bread. Or skip the pasta and make Shrimp Parmesan Sandwiches.
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Crisp-tender, garlicky, herb hasselback potatoes make for the perfect side dish! And they’re mini so it makes for easy serving!
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"This is probably the best and easiest way to make wild salmon. Alot of flavor and simple. The sesame compliments the salmon very well while the sause blends nicely with the ginger and onion. Served best with basmati rice and steamed vegetables."
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Easy to make, grain-free AND so healthy. Plus, you will honestly not even be able to taste a difference!
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