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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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When winter rolls around and leaves are long gone from the trees, many wildlife have difficulty finding enough food. Fortunately, many trees continue to feed birds and mammals throughout the winter. In this article, gardener Briana Yablonski shares multiple types of trees you can plant to support wildlife. American Persimmon Often found in mixed hardwood plantings, neighborhoods, and parks, the American persimmon is the native cousin of the frequently cultivated Asian persimmon. The fruits of the American species are much smaller than those produced by the Asian cultivars, but they have a similar flavor and texture. When the fruits are unripe, they have an unpleasant, astringent flavor. When they ripen, they drop from the tree and cover the ground with a layer of sugary goo. Critters of all kinds enjoy the sweet flesh in the late fall and winter. They can grow up to eighty feet, but they have a slow growth rate. You can identify the persimmons by their blocky gray bark. American Crabapple While crabapples are often the last choice when humans are choosing apples to eat, turkeys, raccoons, deer, and other critters love munching on the small, tart fruits. The apples mature in the fall, but ripe fruits often remain on the ground throughout the winter. The crabapple tree’s small size makes it an excellent choice for yards and areas with limited space. Since they grow in an attractive upright form and have beautiful springtime flowers, they fit in well with residential landscaping while also benefiting wildlife. However, you should be aware the fruits often fall from them and can make a mess if left uneaten. White Oak As ecologist and entomologist Doug Tallamy points out, oaks are crucial for supporting insects and, therefore, birds. That’s because they serve as host plants for more than 500 species of moths and butterflies during the growing season. White oaks continue to feed wildlife in the fall thanks to their calorie-rich acorns. Around 150 species of animals consume the nuts, including raccoons, nuthatches, deer, bluejays, and foxes. These critters will eat many types of acorns, but nuts from white oaks tend to be some of their favorites. Since this species is native to much of the eastern US, it’s a great choice in this region. They can grow well in various habitats as long as the soil is well-draining. Just be aware that they are slow-growing, like most oaks. Fireberry Hawthorn This hawthorn species grows in much of North America, including the Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and Rocky Mountain West. The plants grow as large shrubs or small trees in open clearings, forest edges, and other environments. These are members of the rose family and produce small fruits known as haws. The haws of fireberry hawthorn are bright red when ripe and appear in clusters. The fruit typically ripens in the beginning to middle of fall and feeds wildlife including birds and small mammals. Pin Oak If you want to enjoy the benefits of oaks but want a smaller plant than a white or red oak, the pin oak is one good option. These still produce an upright shape, but they typically max out at around 70 feet tall. The plants have a unique branching pattern that many people find beautiful. They grow best in moist yet well-draining soil but can adapt to dry locations. Pin oaks are popular choices for landscape plantings due to their tolerance of transplanting and relatively quick growth rate. The trees grow about two feet per year, making them one of the fastest-growing oak species. Plus, they’re native to much of the eastern United States. Along with supporting many species of caterpillars, pin oaks also produce acorns that birds and mammals love. Animals often stockpile the nuts and continue to feed on them throughout the winter. Just be aware that pin oaks won’t produce acorns until they’re at least 15 years old. River Birch Many gardeners know the river birch for its beautiful peeling bark and slender branches covered with green leaves. It’s known as the only birch species that grows well in low-lying elevations in southern states. However, I’ve found that fewer plant lovers are aware of the tree’s ability to provide for wildlife. They provide year-round cover for wildlife, especially birds that frequent the lakes and rivers these trees often grow beside. The small seeds that appear on the tree’s female catkins also provide food for birds including grouse, sparrows, and chickadees. Songbirds and small mammals often eat the seedless male catkins in the winter. If you want to plant a river birch, note that they prefer moist soil. Although they can tolerate some heat, they typically don’t fare well in hot, dry conditions. However, the cultivar ‘Dura Heat’ was bred to better resist heat and drought. American Holly Although you may think of holly as a small to medium shrub, American holly plants can grow into large specimens. The plants have smooth, gray bark and thick, evergreen leaves with spiked tips. The trees produce red berries in the fall. Since the berries don’t fall from them once they’re ripe, they remain on the plants into the winter. Birds including cedar waxwings, American robins, and quail eat the berries. However, humans should avoid consuming the toxic fruits. American holly can grow in pretty much any type of light, but they often remain smaller when grown in full shade. Trees that receive more light will also produce more berries. The plants are native to much of the eastern central United States, so they’re natural choices for these areas. Black Cherry There are many different types of cherry trees native to the United States, and all of them provide small fruits that appeal to wildlife, ranging from songbirds to bears. The black cherry is native to much of the eastern half of the United States as well as portions of the southwest. It’s the largest native cherry, so it produces more fruit than smaller cherry species. In the spring, they produce elongated clusters of small white flowers. The flowers give way to small red fruits that turn black by late summer or early fall. They often remain around throughout the fall. Not only do black cherry trees provide fruits in the colder months, but their foliage also supports hundreds of insects that feed birds. Mammals also browse on tender twigs and stems. Scarlet Hawthorn If you want a smaller tree that produces fruits in the fall, scarlet hawthorn is one good option. They only grow up to 25 feet tall and work well in small yards and residential areas. However, be aware that the stems sport long thorns, and the springtime flowers have an unpleasant fragrance. Scarlet hawthorn is native to much of the eastern US, where it grows in numerous types of well-draining soil. They produce small fruits that ripen to deep red in the early fall. The fruits remain on the trees into the early winter and are consumed by birds. Eastern Red Cedar When you think of cedar trees, their scale-like evergreen foliage probably comes to mind. However, the plants also produce small blue structures known as juniper berries. These aren’t true berries but rather female cones. Both birds and mammals feed on the cones throughout the fall and winter. Eastern red cedar grow best in full sun, so it’s best to plant them in an open area rather than near other trees. They can tolerate a variety of soil types but don’t grow well in constantly moist soil. Smooth Sumac Although some people consider it a weedy tree, smooth sumac plays an important role in the ecosystem. It thrives in disturbed areas and poor soils where other trees and shrubs struggle, making it an important part of erosion control. Since the trees grow from suckers, they can form large colonies and survive drought, fire, and other environmental challenges. Smooth sumac grows as a small tree or large shrub with compound leaves containing large, slender leaflets. In the fall, the leaves turn bright crimson. Flower clusters appear on the tops of the trees in the summer and turn to conical clusters of red rupes in the fall. The fruit clusters remain on the plants throughout the fall and into the winter. Grouse, squirrels, chickadees, rabbis, quail, nuthatches, and other critters eat the fruits.
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Learning the secrets of how to grow lettuce all year will let you harvest delicious, nutritious greens. Our guide explains how to do it! We all eat it, but have you wondered how to grow lettuce? There’s a reason that lettuce is one of the most popular plants to grow. Lettuce is so easy, packed with nutrients, and absolutely delicious, so it’s no surprise we all love to grow this versatile green. You can grow lettuce in almost any location in the garden – straight in the soil, on the windowsill, or even between your flowers. With a good focus on gardening basics like proper water, shade, and planting in succession, growing your own lettuce can provide a constant harvest from your garden for the entire year. Let’s explore the diversity of lettuce types and find the perfect variety for you! Planting Lettuce Getting your lettuce off to a good start is the best way to ensure you’ll have an abundant crop. Here’s exactly how to do it! As lettuce is a cool-weather crop, it’s important to time when you begin planting lettuce to fit within those cooler temperatures. Lettuce seeds will not germinate at soil temperatures above 80 degrees. In some areas, you may be able to grow lettuce year-round, but in most locations, you will want to plant your lettuce seeds as soon as the ground is able to be worked. You can start growing lettuce plants in advance, 4-6 weeks prior to the final frost, and transplant them out once the ground is able to be worked. Plant lettuce seeds in succession every 2 weeks to ensure you grow lettuce and have a consistent crop throughout the growing season. As the weather warms up, switch to more heat-resistant varieties of lettuce. When the summer heat is starting to subside, you can get another crop of lettuce in. Be sure that the soil temperature has dropped below 80 degrees, and plant lettuce seeds. If you’re in an area that doesn’t get heavy freezing conditions, your growing season can continue throughout a lot of the winter, too! Lettuce does extremely well in raised bed gardens, but while it tolerate spring and fall sun, it needs protection from summer’s harsh rays. If you plan on trying to grow lettuce seeds into the hot weather months of the year, pick a shady portion of your yard in which to grow lettuce. This will protect it from the elements. You can grow lettuce seeds directly in ground-level garden beds, but if you do that, be sure to keep a watchful eye out, as slugs and snails are very happy to eat all your young crops and lettuce seedlings! To plant lettuce seeds, you first need to ensure your soil is prepared. It should be loose and well-draining, and you will want to make sure it’s well broken up. Large clods of soil can slow down germination and make it hard to grow lettuce. Amend your soil with compost or other soil nutrients about a week prior to planting lettuce for best success. Direct sow your lettuce seeds 1/4″ to 1/2″ under the surface. You can broadcast lettuce seeds for a larger area, or you can plant lettuce in rows, depending on your preference. If you broadcast lettuce seed, you will need to use a rake to bury the seed 1/4″ to 1/2″ under the soil’s surface. As the lettuce seeds germinate and lettuce plants begin to come up, thin them according to their type. Looseleaf lettuces should be spaced about 3-4″ apart. Cos or other loose-headed lettuce varieties should be spaced 8″ apart, and firm types should be 16″ apart. Once your lettuce seeds are planted, water them in lightly and regularly water them every few days until germination. Sow every 2-3 weeks for a continuous way to grow lettuce and harvest lettuce throughout the season.
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All About Ube Before we get started, let’s clear up the yam/sweet potato confusion. Though they look and taste similar, these aren’t the same plants. Sweet potato is actually part of the morning glory family while winged yam is part of the “true yam family”. Dioscorea alata is grown all around the world, so it has many different names. The common name winged yam comes from the stem’s appearance. It’s square-shaped with flat ridges, or “wings”, lining the corners. You may also hear it called “water yam”, which is referring to the tuber’s high water content. These plants are also referred to as “ube” or “ubi” in Phillippine cuisine. Winged yam is such an old plant that its exact origin is unknown, though it’s believed to have come from Southeast Asia. Called a cultigen, this species has only been known in cultivation and may even be a hybrid. It came to North America in the 1500s, when it was introduced to Florida by the Spanish and Portugeuse. Today, ube root crop remains a staple food in Southeast Asia, West Africa, and South America – especially the Philippines. There, it’s used primarily in desserts from cake to ice cream to frappes. Despite its popularity as a dessert-dish, some countries have replaced winged yam with the sweet potato and other crops. In the US, winged yam has gotten a little out of hand. They’re ruthless plants that will take over any space they find. Winged yam has escaped cultivation in the southern United States, the Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. It’s so destructive that the Florida exotic pest plant council has registered it as a fully-fledged invasive species. As gardeners of this plant, we’re responsible for keeping it contained. It’s not exactly high-maintenance, but growing and containing winged yam is no small feat. The vines have been known to reach 20-30 feet tall, often climbing nearby trees. They grow so quickly that some gardeners have reported 8 inches of growth in a single day. The vines aren’t the only thing busy growing. Each plant sports one underground tuber. If left unharvested, the tubers will grow and grow until they’ve reached 8 feet long. Sometimes, the vines will grow smaller, aerial tubers above ground (similar to the air potato). These bulbils are meant to develop into new plants and are excellent for propagation. It may be fast-growing, but these plants aren’t invincible. They only last through the winter in zones 9-11. In colder locations, they must be grown as an annual. Come harvest time, it’s vital that you make sure you cook the tubers completely before eating as they’re toxic when raw! If any ube tastes bitter, do not eat it. Cooking should render this safe, but the bitterness is a warning sign. Winged Yam Varieties In most places, ube is ube. In others though, especially the Philippines, there are many different varieties of this species. Kinampay is considered the original winged yam species. It’s nicknamed “Queen of Philippine Yams” and has 4 further varietes: tamisan, binanag, kabus-ok, and binato. With these yams, different varieties often mean different colors. While most, such as Zambales, stick to the classic purple, others have varying shades of white. The Basco variety, for example, is white with a lavender tinge. The Leyte variety ranges from a lovely cream color to pink. Planting Like potatoes, winged yam is usually grown by planting chunks of the tuber. You can buy the starter pieces online or acquire some from a friend. Small tubers can be planted whole, while large ones can be cut into several pieces. Let the pieces dry out before planting or sprouting them. In the tropics, Dioscorea alata can be planted any time of year, but usually just after the rainy season. Here in the US, that’s equivalent to spring. Don’t plant your yams in the ground until all chances of frost have passed. It takes anywhere from 3-12 weeks for the tubers to sprout. You can get ahead of schedule by sprouting the yam pieces before planting. Just stick them in a bucket of soil and keep them moist. Once they sprout, you can transplant them into their permanent homes. Before planting in the ground, till the soil well. The growing tubers will appreciate the extra room that loose soil gives it. Plant the tubers 4-5 inches deep and 2 feet apart. It’s recommended to add organic mulch on top to hold in water and prevent weeds. Dioscorea alata can be grown in containers, but you’ll have to watch the size. Use at least a 5-gallon container and harvest the yam before it outgrows its home. Care Winged yam species are pretty rough-and-tumble plants. However, you’ll get the best results by following their care preferences. Here’s what we recommend. Sun and Temperature Give your winged yam full to partial sunlight. Since it’s from the tropics, it likes to be nice and warm; at least 70°F is preferable. If you live in zones 9-11, you can grow these plants as perennials. Otherwise, the weather will only allow this yam to grow seasonally. Freezing temperatures can cause damage to the roots and green growth. Water and Humidity Dioscorea is drought-tolerant, but it thrives best with consistent moisture. Water it whenever the top few inches of the soil begins to dry out. Drip lines or soaker hoses work really well for this plant. When the plants start to die at the end of the growing season, stop watering so they won’t rot. Humidity isn’t a huge factor here, so long as you keep the soil moist during the summer. Soil Dioscorea alata species will grow in a variety of soils. For optimal growth, though, the soil should have all the best features. It should be loamy, fertile, full of organic material, and well-draining. It’s also important that the soil is loose so the tubers can grow easily. A neutral or slightly acidic pH will be fine. Fertilizing Dioscorea alata isn’t too picky about fertilizer as long as it has nutrients. Stock the soil with organic matter before planting and use mulch. If you’d like to give the plant and aerial tubers an extra boost, apply a balanced fertilizer a couple of times during the growing season. Pruning and Training As a climber, this vine will much appreciate a trellis to grow on. Plus, having a support will boost your plant’s growth. When it’s climbing, the vines will spread out and expose more leaf surface for photosynthesis. Use a trellis, fence, or even a host tree. If the vines don’t take to the support on their own, gently wind them around it. If necessary, tie them loosely with a scrap of fabric. If your plant outgrows its support, prune back the vines with sharp, clean clippers. If your Dioscorea alata grows aerial tubers that you don’t plan to propagate, clip them off before they mature. This potentially invasive plant spreads quickly through aerial tubers and we want to keep it under control. Destroy the aerial tubers before throwing them out so they don’t take root in your compost bin. Propagation It’s rare for Dioscorea to flower in much of the United States, so seed isn’t a common propagation method. Instead, gardeners rely on aerial tubers or root propagation. Start off by cutting the root or aerial tubers from the rest of the plant. Unless you have a very small tuber, cut it into several chunks. Each one is a potential Dioscorea alata. After they’re cut, you have to let the pieces dry out for a couple days. Otherwise, the new wounds could quickly rot when planted. To speed up the process, dip the cut end in wood ash. Once dry, bury the pieces in a bucket of dirt and keep it moist. Once they sprout, you can move the baby yams to their permanent home. Harvesting and Storing Get your dessert recipes ready, because it’s harvest time! Each plant is one-and-done, so the process shouldn’t take too long. Harvesting When the tubers are mature, the foliage will yellow and die. This is your cue to grab the shovel and start harvesting. This usually happens from November to January. If the frost is going to hit your area earlier than that, you’ll want to harvest early. Carefully pull up the entire plant, using a shovel if necessary. Remove the tubers from the vine and brush off the dirt. It’s that simple! Ensure that you remove all tubers, aerial tubers, and vines from the ground so nothing is left to its own devices. Otherwise, you may end up with a particularly invasive plant on your hands. If you live in USDA zones 9-11, you have the option of letting your Dioscorea alata grow for 2 or more years. Just leave it in the ground over winter. It will likely shed its leaves and go dormant for at least a few months. The following harvest season, you should have a massive payoff. Storing You can keep your freshly-harvested Dioscorea on the kitchen counter or pantry. It just needs to stay dry or it may sprout. Remember that the tubers are toxic when raw, so you have to cook them completely. It’s also advisable to wear gloves while preparing them. Cook the Dioscorea alata winged yam as you would a potato. Or, if you have a sweet tooth, head over to Pinterest for some Dioscorea dessert recipes like ube cupcakes. If you have a huge tuber, you can remove a piece at a time, and the remaining winged yam will usually be fine. For long-term storage, keep your yams in a dry place. Periodically check for and remove any rotted pieces. Troubleshooting You’re in luck, as there aren’t many problems to deal with when it comes to Dioscorea alata. We’ll go over a few things though, just in case. Growing Problems Greening of tubers happens when they’re exposed to sunlight while growing. It’s a result of the tubers producing chlorophyll, the same chemical responsible for photosynthesis in leaves. Depending on the amount, chlorophyll can be dangerous when eaten by humans. Stay on the safe side and discard any green portions. Prevent this from happening by keeping the tubers covered at all times while they’re growing. If at any time the tubers poke out of the soil, quickly make a mound over it. Pests Root-knot nematodes hit this species right where it hurts: the tuber. They’ll disrupt their growth and cause knots and deformities. Above-ground, you’ll notice stunted growth and yellowing leaves. Prevent these nematodes by tilling the soil well before and after each harvest. You should also use crop rotation with nematode-resistant plants. For existing infestations, try a nematicide. Geraniol and quillaja saponaria based treatments are a good organic option. Alternately, add beneficial nematodes to the soil as they will hunt down and kill the root-knot nematodes. Scale insects, particularly white scales and mealybugs, are common pests that feed on Dioscorea alata juice. They secrete honeydew that attracts ants, which is another pest to eliminate. The best approach is to prevent these insects in the first place. Keeping the soil clear of debris and the plant dry are the best measures. You can also prune infested vines or remove the pests one by one with a dab of rubbing alcohol. For large infestations, try using an insecticidal soap, or beneficial predators such as lacewings or ladybugs. Neem oil or horticultural oil can kill off their eggs. Diseases Anthracnose is a fungal disease that will cause leaf spots on your beautiful Dioscorea alata species. In time, it can yellow and wither the leaves, eventually killing them. This disease usually isn’t fatal to the whole plant, but can definitely affect its growth. Try a dose of neem oil, copper fungicide, or sulfur dust fungicide to treat this fungus. Prevent anthracnose by keeping your plant clean and dry. The mosaic virus creates a “mosaic” of color on the leaves, usually in shades of yellow and green. It sounds pretty, but the coloring is caused by damage to the veins, which are vital to the plant’s health. This disease will stunt Dioscorea alata’s growth and even affect the starch content of the tuber. This virus is typically transmitted by Dioscorea alata cuttings, so ensure that you’re only planting disease-free yams. Insects can also transmit the disease, so arm yourself against any pest problems. There’s no cure for this disease, so prevention is your only weapon.
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Sago palms are a striking tropical with a rosette of fronded leaves. In the garden or as a houseplant, they make a long-lasting feature. Garden expert Katherine Rowe explores how to incorporate the handsome and historic specimen into your collection. Sago palms feature a whorl of evergreen leaves that form a rosette of dark green fronds. A staple of southern and coastal gardens, the tropicals thrive in warm climates with only short spells of below-freezing temperatures. They’re also easy-care houseplants, making them versatile across growing zones for overwintering indoors. Sagos belong to the ancient family Cycadaceae, with pre-historic origins some 200 million years ago, before dinosaurs walked the earth. Sagos aren’t true palms but cycads, more closely related to conifers than palms. But, their feathery fronds are palm-like nonetheless and make a stately accent in the border, along foundations, and as container features. The ancient genus holds about 100 species, with sagos as the most common. Cycas revoluta are long-lived and very slow-growing, reaching their maximum height in 50 years or more. Young plants take several years to reach two to three feet tall and wide. Some of the oldest species are over 200 years old. Originating in Japan’s subtropical southern islands, they lend a tropical flair and contrasting texture among other broadleaf plantings. The cycads are Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit recipients for their multi-season appeal, minimal maintenance requirements, and pest and disease resistance. Their fine texture adds interest and contrast among mixed plantings in a foundation or shrub border. Pair them with other tropicals like fatsia, farfugium, philodendron, cast iron plant, and dwarf palmettos for a diverse arrangement in partially shaded areas. They’re handsome among tailored compositions like boxwoods and with dwarf cypress, gardenias, and azaleas. Sagos also stand alone in containers flanking a front porch, kept small in indoor pots, or for bonsai. The dominant features of the cycad are its long, symmetrical, whorled leaves that emerge from a central crown and a shaggy trunk. The stems reach 20 to 60 inches long and hold slender leaflets that create a fronded look. Dark green, stiff, and highly polished, three to six-inch long leaflets line the arching stems with perfect spacing. The needled leaflets are attractive all year on sturdy and strong stems. Each leaflet has a spiny tip, so make sure they’re out of the way in high-traffic areas to avoid a poke. Sagos are gymnosperms, meaning they don’t produce flowers but a cone-like structure for reproduction and fruiting. They’re dioecious, requiring both a male and female plant for pollination to produce seeds. Bees and other insects visit each plant and transfer pollen from the male to the female as they go. Wind, too, disperses granules between plants to promote seeding. Sagos have ancient reproductive characteristics, where the male produces a central golden cone in late spring to early summer. Females have a fuzzy flowerhead that becomes packed with seeds. The bright orange or red seeds mature by fall. Indoors, cone production is less common. Sagos are toxic to people and pets if ingested, especially the seeds. Use caution in placement indoors or out with pets or children nearby, and use gloves when pruning, dividing offsets, or harvesting seeds. Cycas revoluta is native to the Japanese island of Kyushu, the Ryukyu archipelago, and southern China. They grow in thickets along hillsides. The islands are humid, sunny, and subtropical, with rainy seasons and typhoons. They experience warm summers and cool, moist winters. Fall and spring are the best times for planting. Cool temperatures and seasonal moisture give plants time to establish before winter and summer temperature fluctuations. For the least stress, avoid frozen or waterlogged conditions and extreme heat or drought periods. When planting, space the trees four to six feet apart to allow room for mature growth. Keep them out of overly windy spaces to protect foliage and stems; under a tree canopy or with a shrub buffer helps. The slow-growing cycads perform beautifully in a container and seldom need repotting. They prefer to be a little root-bound to produce new shoots. Refresh potting soil or move them to bigger quarters every few years. A well-draining potting mix is essential, and one for palms or cacti works well.
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"My husband and I created this recipe together. He won a chili cook-off with this recipe at work. We always use venison, but you can use ground beef or turkey."
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A rich and creamy lightened up alfredo sauce that’s so easy to make, and it tastes just as good as the original!
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Comforting, nourishing and healthy made in the crockpot. Even the quinoa gets cooked right in! 214.2 cal/serving.
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