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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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Although planting a tree is an exciting task, rushed planting and a lack of knowledge can lead to unhealthy trees. Join plant expert Briana Yablonski to learn common tree planting mistakes you should avoid. Adding trees to your property is a great way to provide natural shade, support pollinators, and enjoy homegrown fruit. But planting trees isn’t as simple as sticking them in the ground and walking away. Common mistakes include planting at the wrong depth, watering improperly, and choosing the wrong species can all lead to unhealthy or dead trees. Whether you’re planting your first tree or adding to your backyard orchard, it’s helpful to know some common tree planting mistakes. Avoiding these 11 errors will increase the odds you’ll end up with a healthy tree. Not all trees are well suited for every climate, sun exposure, and soil type. While you may dream of growing a weeping willow or flowering cherry in your front yard, planting a species that doesn’t fit into the surrounding environment will likely lead to an unhealthy plant and unhappy humans. When choosing a new tree for your property, take note of the following characteristics and choose a species that will thrive in that environment. Hardiness zone: Most species are suitable for various hardiness zones, but some will suffer when exposed to extreme heat or cold. Sun exposure: Whether you’re planting in full sun or shade, you can find a variety for the type of light you’re working with. Soil moisture: Some species, like willows and alders, require moist soil, and others grow best when the soil remains slightly dry. Although you can supplement the moisture level through irrigation, choosing a species well suited to the native moisture level will simplify care. Soil type: Some grow best in loose sand, while others thrive in dense clay. Available space: Ensure you have enough space for the full size at maturity. For instance, if you’re growing on a balcony, you’ll have to skip larger trees. Planting at the Wrong Time of Year Planting at the right time of year is crucial to its success. Aim to get your saplings in the ground when they’re dormant, which means they’re not actively growing. While the plants will take time to put on new growth, dormant trees will face less stress during the transition from a container to the ground. Fall and spring are both great times for planting trees. If you plant in the fall, wait until hot temperatures have subsided. However, try to plant a few weeks before freezing temperatures arrive. Planting around the time the leaves fall from the trees is a good bet. If you plant in the spring, get saplings in the ground before the buds break. It’s okay if the saplings experience a few frosts after you put them in the ground, but protect the new transplants with row cover if a frost arrives after bud break. Choosing a Poor Location While trees may seem hardier than tender annuals and vegetative perennials, they’re still sensitive to the type of light, moisture, and soil. If you add a tree to a less-than-ideal area, it may not thrive. Along with looking at environmental conditions like hardiness zone and light, you should also think about the tree’s growth. A tree may grow well next to your house or beside a brick wall for a few years, but once it reaches a certain size, it can begin encroaching on structures and utility lines. Therefore, it’s important to account for the tree’s growth before selecting a location. Look for above-ground obstacles like buildings, power lines, and other trees. While you can prune the tree to avoid these obstructions, it will involve consistent work. Next, think about low-lying items like sidewalks and driveways. As tree roots expand, they can cause these surfaces to buckle and crack. You should also consider if the roots’ spread will endanger underground utilities. If you want to plant a tree close to obstacles, look for a species that’s short and/or narrow. It helps to look at the tree’s mature shape when deciding which species to plant. Not Checking for Utilities Before Digging Before you dig a hole, you should always call to check and see if there are utility lines underground. Digging into an electric line or water supply pipe while planting a tree is not only dangerous, but it can be a costly mistake. Even if you don’t think any utilities are buried in your intended planting area, it doesn’t hurt to check. Most utility companies will come out and mark utility lines for no charge. It may take a few days or weeks for them to make it out to your property, so contact them well before your intended planting date. If you’re not sure who to call, dial 811 to be directed to the proper resources. Digging Too Small of a Hole One of the most common mistakes gardeners make when planting trees involves digging a hole that’s too small. Since 80% of tree roots are in the top two feet of soil, you want to make it as easy as possible for the roots to grow horizontally. Digging a wide hole loosens the soil and speeds root expansion. Regardless of which type and size of tree you’re planting, you should always dig the hole at least three times as wide as the root ball. You don’t have to dig the entire hole at the same depth. Instead, you can create a saucer-shaped hole that’s deep in the middle and shallower towards the edges. The roots will have an easier time growing into loosened soil than compacted soil. Plus, removing the soil gives you an opportunity to remove any large rocks that would inhibit root growth. Not Watering Enough Supplying newly planted trees with an adequate amount of moisture helps them recover from the stress of planting, and saves you from the headaches of moisture mistakes. Since young saplings and bare root specimens don’t have developed root systems, they require more frequent watering than larger trees. If they don’t have access to enough water, they will have difficulty regulating their temperatures, completing photosynthesis, and fighting disease. Many gardeners start on the right foot and keep their trees well watered in the weeks following planting. But as a few more weeks pass, life gets busy, and many forget to provide the new tree with water. This lack of irrigation can prove especially problematic during hot and dry summers. The amount of water to apply depends on the soil type, tree size, and rainfall. However, you should generally apply one-and-a-half gallons of water for each inch of the tree’s trunk. For example, supply three gallons of water to a two-inch wide tree and four-and-a-half gallons to a three-inch wide tree. The watering frequency typically decreases as the time from the planting date increases. A good rule of thumb is to water every day during the two weeks following planting and then every two to three weeks in the following ten weeks. While these are good recommendations, check the soil moisture and adjust as necessary. You can supply the water with a hose or bucket or automate watering with the help of a drip irrigation system and a timer. Regardless of which irrigation method you use, aim for infrequent deep waterings rather than frequent shallow waterings. Deep irrigation encourages the growth of deep roots and helps the plant withstand wind and drought. Watering Too Much Yes, there is such a thing as watering too much! Overwatering can prevent the roots from completing gas exchange, taking up nutrients, and properly absorbing water. Constantly moist soil also increases the chances that roots will develop fungal diseases. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between watering, and remember to water deeply and infrequently. Watering your plants a little each day will keep the soil moist and discourage the development of deep roots. Planting Too Deep Whether you start with a bare root or a potted tree, planting at the proper depth is crucial. If you plant too deep, the upper roots often grow around the trunk and strangle it. At first, this underground issue isn’t noticeable. But after a few years, a girdled tree often displays a quick and serious decline. You may notice premature leaf drop, yellowing leaves, reduced growth, and intense disease and insect pressure. Eventually, your once-healthy maple or birch dies. So, how deep should you plant your tree? No matter which type of material you’re starting with, use the trunk’s structure as a guide. Sometimes, nursery workers plant potted saplings too deep in their containers. Therefore, you can’t assume planting the top of the potting soil flush with the ground will lead to the correct depth. First, look for a flare in the trunk. This is the point where the straight trunk begins curving out before the roots. Placing the flare an inch or two above the soil surface is ideal. If you’re planting a grafted tree, keep the graft a few inches above the soil line. A trunk flare is often hard to see in small saplings. If that’s the case, you can use the top-most roots to guide the depth. These large, structural roots should be located one to three inches below the soil surface. If you’re growing on a slope, you’ll need to make some adjustments to ensure both the uphill and downhill roots are at the proper depth. First, flatten out the area where you plan to plant by digging into the slope or adding extra soil. Once you have a flat area, plant as you normally would. Starting with a Rootbound Sapling When you’re choosing a specimen, you have three main options: bare root, container-grown, and wrapped. If you start with a specimen growing in a pot, you should make sure it isn’t rootbound. If plants remain in their pots for too long, the roots eventually begin circling the bottom of the container. When you remove these rootbound saplings from their containers and place them in the ground, they often have a difficult time adapting to their new home. They have plenty of roots, but they have a difficult time spreading throughout the soil. It’s best to avoid purchasing rootbound trees. However, if you’re starting with a container-grown specimen with tightly-packed roots, you can take a few steps to help it adjust to planting. Cutting an X through the bottom of the roots will help them expand. You can also use your hands to lightly pull the roots apart. Improper Mulching Too much mulch, too little mulch, and improper mulch placement can all negatively impact trees. Therefore, it’s important to apply wood chips, straw, and any other type of organic matter in just the right way to protect them. When you add mulch, add two to four inches around the base of your tree. This will help protect the roots against both hot and cold temperatures and limit evaporation. Avoid applying more than four inches of mulch since too thick of a layer can lead to issues with airflow and water infiltration. Make sure to leave a few inches of space surrounding the trunk free of mulch, and never mound the mulch against the trunk. Creating a mulch volcano or mulch pyramid leads to multiple issues and a slow but serious decline in tree health. It can trap moisture and cause the bark to decay, which leaves the plant more susceptible to pests and disease. Roots often grow into the mounded mulch and sometimes girdle the trunk. As the mulch decays, these above-ground roots are left open to the air and quickly dehydrate. Not Protecting from Pests Since mature trees are expensive and often impractical, gardeners usually start with plants that are less than ten feet tall. These small plants are easier to plant and better able to adapt to their new home, but they’re also more susceptible to attacks from pests. Mammals like deer and beavers find the tender young growth to be delicious. These critters can eat through an entire trunk in a single day and kill the tree. Fortunately, you can easily protect from these pests. Wrapping the trunk with wire or heavy plastic mesh will make it impossible for the mammals to reach it. You should also keep an eye out for insect pests. Although you may not see any pests immediately after planting, caterpillars may appear later on. If they are causing serious damage to the leaves, you can remove them by hand or spray the foliage with Bt. Sometimes, a strong stream of water from a hose is enough.
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In this piece, Master Naturalist Sarah Jay discusses how to grow and care for ‘Forest Pansy’ Redbuds. Read on to learn how to include these stunning North American cultivars in your landscape. Redbud trees are some of the most interesting landscape specimens for a garden. As a native plant gardener I’m personally stoked to plant one in my yard! And I might just choose a ‘Forest Pansy’ redbud when the time comes. This cultivar is similar to the straight species with some notable differences. These trees are medium-sized, so you’ll need a bit of space to grow your own. But even a smaller yard will benefit from the presence of this stunning tree. If you’re wondering how to care for your own ‘Forest Pansy‘ redbud, we’ve got you covered! We’ll walk you through the process of planting and caring for one, and we’ll discuss what makes this cultivar different from the beloved native from which it originated. Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ is a gorgeous spring bloomer that comes from the eastern North America native redbud tree. Both subsist in many different soils and can be planted outside their native range. Even better if they are planted within it, but they will survive in USDA zones 5-9. Like other redbuds, these are understory trees that thrive in forested areas. They can tolerate full sun in an open area, while the straight species is most commonly found in grasslands. The margins of forests and prairies are also great planting spaces for these trees. This native is a perennial, deciduous tree with heart-shaped leaves and bright purple flowers—similar to the straight species. The beautiful blooms on this 15-to-30-foot tree develop in early spring and are a pollinator magnet, both as a host and a source of food. The southern blueberry bee (Habropoda laboriosa) is reliant on redbuds. As members of the Legume family, redbuds have nitrogen-fixing capabilities valued in food forestry. This capacity allows them to help other plants establish themselves, facilitating nutrient transfer between microbes in the soil. The genus Cercis comes from the Greek word kerkis, which refers to the resemblance of each seed pod to a weaver’s shuttle. These pods form in spring after the pea-like purplish-pink flowers bloom and are pollinated in spring. As the summer wears on, the seeds within the pods mature, and in fall, they dry. What distinguishes this tree from the eastern redbud is its ornamental appeal. Unlike its parent’s leaves, ‘Forest Pansy’ develops deep red leaves in spring. These fade to green by early summer and then turn fiery red and gold in autumn. The trunk of the tree is also quite sturdy. Both have a rounded form, which along with its foliage is appealing to those in need of a striking specimen. ‘Forest Pansy’ was a chance discovery at the McMinnville, Tennessee Forest Nursery. The nursery had established a name for itself as a source for redbuds. Either the owner of the nursery or the foreman found the tree growing among other young saplings in 1947. Redbuds thrive in the southeastern regions of North America from the Atlantic coast to Central Texas, where the terrain is typically forest or grassland. Unlike other varieties, eastern redbuds require moderate amounts of water, as their native range typically receives more rainfall. Fall is the best time to plant a redbud, as this gives the tree plenty of time to develop roots before the following spring flowering. Spring is a close second but requires more care. Find a partial sun spot with at least 15 feet on all sides before you start the planting process. This ensures the best future for your Forest Pansy.
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Society garlic is a garlic-scented, almost garlic-flavored bulbing plant... but it's not really garlic. Learn how to grow it with our guide!Do you enjoy growing edible perennials? Maybe you love garlic chives for their flavor and pollinator-attracting prowess. Or maybe you’d like to add a splash of color to one of your herb gardens. If this description suits you, look no further than society garlic! A society garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) plant is a great addition to gardens managed by those with different plant tastes. Wildcrafters love using the leaves and flowers in salads and just as they would use wild garlic. Regenerative agriculture nuts love it because its hardy tuberous roots withstand almost any soil type. Society garlic does not attract pests or pathogens that spread disease. It thrives in bright sunlight and hot weather. And get this: it won’t give you bad breath when you eat it, like garlic will. Even though it loves summer, it’s winter hardy, meaning a long growing season is at hand. Society garlic, Tulbaghia violacea, is also known as pink agapanthus, spring bulbs, and sweet garlic. The common name society garlic comes from its ability to flavor a dish without the undesirable fallout of bad breath. This clump-forming herbaceous perennial is native to South Africa and has been naturalized in Tanzania and Mexico. Most people in America know of society garlic plants for their clumping, green straplike foliage which branch out below fragrant (sometimes pungent) lavender colored flowers. Flowers are tuberous and grow in clusters. The flower color ranges from white to pink to purple. Some varieties have multi-colored blooms of purple and white. Their tuberous roots need to be established before society garlic flowers can be separated and eaten. Interestingly, people who eat society garlic don’t come away with bad breath, even though the lavender-pink flowers smell as strong as skunk in the hot summer sun. Get it going, and you’ll be able to enjoy this clump-forming herbaceous perennial for at least three years. Flower stalks are topped by tubular flowers that reach up to 3 feet tall. Each lavender flower has six petals that cluster above narrow leaves. Society garlic isn’t garlic. It exists in the same family as garlic and onions (the Amaryllis family), and lies in the same genus as other tuberous South African plants which are very similar. Unlike regular garlic and onions, it grows quickly, with seeds that sprout within one to two weeks. However, it takes a year or two to bloom. It’s used in soups, salads, and dishes just as garlic chives would be used. All parts (including roots) lend spice to any culinary endeavor. Tubers have been used medicinally by people in Africa to treat many ailments. Zulu people in KwaZulu-Natal province have used the plant to season meat and potato dishes. They also plant society garlic around the edge of their homes to keep snakes out. And the same genus name comes from the governor of the Cape of Good Hope in Eastern South Africa in the 1700s (Rijk Tulbagh).
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Gingko trees are geological relics that bring history and beauty to our landscapes. Join gardening expert Logan Hailey as she shares how to grow and care for gingko trees. Considered living fossils, ginkgo trees are among the last of their kind. These stunning 25 to 80-foot-tall trees have uniquely fan-shaped leaves that turn vibrant golden-yellow in the autumn. As the last surviving members of the ancient Ginkgoacaeae plant family, these tremendous trees are geological relics that make enchanting landscape specimens for fall color. Although they are native to China, these trees grow well in most parts of the United States, from USDA zones 3 through 9. Ginkgos are known for their memory-enhancing herbal qualities, but the seeds of female trees can also be quite stinky if left on the ground. Fortunately, seedless all-male cultivars are now available to avoid the smelly cleanup. Let’s dig into everything you need to know about planting and growing this living fossil in your yard! Native to China, ginkgo trees have been admired for hundreds of thousands of years in gardens, ornamental landscapes, and urban parks. The oldest known ginkgo tree in North America is located in South Philly’s Bartram’s Garden, allegedly planted in the 1700s. But the oldest ginkgo in the world is over 3,000 years old and grows outside a Buddhist temple in Xi’an City, China. The long-lived trees show no signs of slowing down, and many speculate that they get more vibrant and healthy as they age. In the fall, the ground beneath each tree is shockingly blanketed with golden-yellow leaves that shine through even the foggiest days. If you plant one in your yard, you can enjoy an equally stunning show that will reliably return every year for generations to come. Ginkgo biloba is among the oldest living tree species. The deciduous tree is the last remaining species of the ancient Ginkgoacaeae family. Sometimes called maidenhair trees, the distinctive fan-shaped leaves turn extraordinarily bright yellow in the fall. The massive trees grow up to 80 feet tall and can live for thousands of years, earning them the title of “living fossils.” Gingko is notable for its medicinal qualities for the brain and memory. The tree’s extracts have been used as an herbal medicine for many centuries, and modern science has proven the neurological benefits for memory enhancement, as well as prevention of dementia and Alzheimer’s disease. Intriguingly, this ancient tree is quite tolerant of drought and urban pollution, making it a popular landscaping tree for city streets, parks, and buildings. It is virtually pest-and-disease-free and tolerates cold weather. The trees can be planted as large single-specimen shade trees or at a closer spacing for a privacy hedge. The pyramidal shape and few branches make for a striking focal point, and the fan-shaped leaves turn from pretty green to striking gold every fall. Gingkos are dioecious, meaning they have separate male and female trees. The male trees are preferred for cultivation because the female trees can be stinky. Female trees produce yellow cherry-like “fruits” that dangle in pairs. The fleshy fruit-like structure is actually a seed that resembles a plum seed or a nut. These nuts are traditionally used in soups and medicines. Gingko “fruits” are not technically fruits, but rather fleshy seed ovaries. They are notoriously stinky when they fall to the ground. A gorgeous row of ginkgos grew on my college campus and regularly shed their “fruits” on the ground every fall. The orangish-tan fleshy seeds were so pretty, yet they smelled like vomit as they rotted on the concrete. It is a smell you will never forget! Horticulturalists have struggled to properly sex-identify the trees when they’re young, but by propagating with cuttings or using the male-only cultivars that we will discuss below, you can ensure a sleek, stink-free landscape. The trees naturally grow straight up with a pyramidal structure averaging 40 to 80 feet tall but often exceeding 100 feet at maturity. Dwarf varieties are also available. The bark is fissured and gray with a corky texture. As trees age, the bark becomes more deeply furrowed like an ancient wrinkled wise being. The interior wood is light-colored and soft and was once used for religious furniture. However, it is too soft to serve structural purposes, and nobody wants to cut down a living fossil! Gingko leaves are fan-shaped with irregular toothing along the widest edge. There is a distinctive notch that splits the leaves into two lobes, hence the name bi-loba, as in “two.” The leaves are cheery lime green and turn dull and grayish in the summer, then yellow and eventually gold in the autumn. They stay on the tree late into the season for long-lasting color, then rapidly fall at the same time, creating a pretty skirt of gold. The leaves are most commonly used in herbal extractions for memory-enhancing supplements and teas. These tremendous ancient species are native to China and grow throughout the world as ornamental and medicinal plants. Ginkgo biloba trees date back over 270 million years to the Permian Period when Earth’s crustal plates were still in the single continental formation of Pangea. About 70% of terrestrial plant and animal species on Earth went extinct during this era, but the majestic ginkgo survived. Ginkgo trees are widely cultivated but are listed as highly endangered in the wild. Planting one in your yard can help preserve an ancient species (though clearly, ginkgos don’t need much help from humans to survive through the ages). An interesting fact about ginkgos is that they are gymnosperms, which means “naked seed” in Latin. These trees are so old that they pre-date flowering plants! Most gymnosperms are coniferous, like redwoods, pines, and firs, but ginkgos are broadleaf gymnosperms. While their dangling “naked seeds” look similar to fruits, they are technically naked ovules or kernels with a fleshy covering. The trees don’t produce any flowers; instead, the pollen from a male tree reaches the open ovules of a female tree, and they fertilize each other. While you can propagate ginkgo from seed, it is more common to propagate by cutting so you can ensure you have a male tree that won’t drop any stinky seeds in your yard. Grafting is sometimes used to jumpstart a new tree.
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