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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
gardening experts
Thinking of planting an Iris virginica in your garden? This carefree aquatic plant, usually found in the wild across the Southern and Eastern United States, is the perfect addition to any water-heavy spots in your garden. Gardening expert Madison Moulton examines the best ways to plant, grow, and care for the Southern Blue Flag. Nestled the balmy heat of the Southeastern United States, from Virginia to Louisiana and into Texas, sits Iris Virginica – a delicate herbaceous perennial. The small, intricate blue blooms top long stems, surrounded by spiked green leaves that contrast in texture and structure. Looks are not the only thing this showy plant has going for it. It is also incredibly low maintenance, growing well anywhere it is provided wet soil. This makes this Iris which has a striking blue flower, an ideal addition next to ponds or streams, or as a part of a water feature. Although it resides largely on the South coast, this plant will thrive in a range of climate regions. No matter where you reside, you won’t regret adding this plant to your water garden. What Is Iris Virginica? The Virginia Iris is a member of the Iris genus, containing hundreds of species and cultivars with similar detailed, interesting flower types. The genus name comes from the Greek for ‘rainbow’, seemingly referring to the colorful flowers found across these fascinating species. Iris Virginica is Native to the Eastern and Southern coastal regions of the United States, it features bluish-purple blooms surrounding a yellow and white center. The yellow patch is believed to guide pollinators to the nectar inside the center of the flower. Each petal is decorated with deep violet veins that stand out against the light base. The delicate flowers are surrounded by clumps of sharp green leaves that add volume to the plant. This plant is commonly compared to its Northern counterpart, Iris versicolor. Both Iris species are incredibly similar, growing in the same wetland conditions and sporting similar flowers. However, Northern Blue Flag is understandably more cold-hardy, growing well in USDA zones 3-9. Southern Blue Flag (and Northern Blue Flag, too) is mostly found in the wild and not typically grown in home gardens. They are skipped over in favor of their more popular ornamental relatives. However, this shouldn’t stop you from growing it in your own backyard. These plants provide the classic Iris look we all love in wetland conditions. This makes them ideal for tricky spots like ponds, or planted in rain gardens, where they will grow without fuss. They are also native to the US, a great alternative to some of the invasive Iris species that disrupt the local environments. Propagation There are a few ways to correctly propagate the iris virginica. In the wild, Virginia Iris spreads by dropping seeds or slowly extending the rhizomes. When left to spread on their own, the clumps can become congested, preventing further prolific growth and flowering. When kept in your garden, it is best to divide and replant the rhizomes every few years to promote flowering. Alternatively, you can harvest the seeds and replant them immediately, straight into the garden. Dividing Southern Blue Flags Division is best done in late summer or early autumn. When the leaves begin to yellow, you’ll know the plants are ready to be propagated. Divide after the plant has finished flowering to enjoy the best of its blooms for that season and limit the risk of bacterial soft rot. To divide, gently lift the plant out of the soil with a fork, ensuring you do not damage the rhizomes. Depending on the age of your plant, you may be able to pull the rhizomes apart, but if not, they can be cut with a clean, sharp knife. Use this time to remove any unhealthy rhizomes or dying leaves. New, healthy rhizomes will be plump with plenty of leaves, while older ones will have a woody texture. Cut the leaves to around a third of their height. This allows the plant to focus its energy on rhizome regrowth, limiting any potential transplant stress. Replant the viable rhizomes back into the garden, ensuring they have plenty of sunshine and water to reestablish themselves. Propagating From Seeds When propagating from seed, plant immediately after harvesting when the seeds are still ripe. You’ll know the seeds are ready when the pod turns brown and dries out. Iris virginica seeds do not respond well to being stored and, if allowed to dry out, will no longer be viable. Plant the seeds straight into the garden in fall and they should emerge again come springtime. Planting This particular plant should ideally be planted in early spring. Rhizomes are best planted in fall, but potted plants can be transplanted into the garden in early spring to get the most of their late spring and summer flowers. Plant around 2’ apart to give the plants enough space to spread. Ensure the area you are planting in has plenty of sunlight and receives a good amount of water throughout the day. Ideal spots include bog gardens or rain gardens, or along streams and rivers. This perennial can be planted as a border plant in garden beds, but will need constant watering to thrive. When planting in beds, ensure you pair it with other water-loving plants to match their needs. As they need consistently moist soil, most other common bedding plants will succumb to root rot under the same conditions. Care One of the great benefits of growing this plant species is its remarkably carefree nature. When given the right environment, this plant will grow and flower reliably for many years without too much intervention from you. Light When it comes to light, this plant needs plenty of sun to produce its showy flowers. In most regions, it is best planted in a full sun position. However, in hotter areas, it may benefit from some shade in the afternoons. The more shade this plant receives, the less likely it will be to flower.
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Galangal seems exotic to most in the United States, but it's a staple spice abroad. Used extensively in Asian cuisine, this root vegetable is fun to grow. Learn how to grow this culinary staple with Melissa Kruse-Peeples at home!During the Middle Ages, the spicy and pungent root known as galangal was a hot commodity. It was widely traded from its native Indonesia and China throughout Europe. Its popularity in the Western world diminished, and until recently, you would have been hard-pressed to find someone who would even know what galangal was. Awareness of galangal is increasing thanks to its popularity in a diversity of Asian cuisines, particularly Thai food. While popularity has increased, sourcing fresh galangal roots can be a challenge. Why not grow your own? Galangal is in the ginger family and grown from the root or rhizomes. Growing galangal is easy. It is a relatively low maintenance perennial. Originally from Indonesia and Southwest China, it is attractive with a tropical look for your garden. Galangal has two forms: greater (Alpinia galanga) and lesser (A. officinarum). The first is larger, as it can grow up to six feet in height, and is the more common culinary root. The lesser version has a stronger taste and is most commonly used for medicinal purposes. It has a smaller stature, reaching around three feet in height.
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Are you thinking of growing some bell peppers in your garden this year, but aren't exactly sure where to start? Bell peppers are actually fairly easy to grow, provided you have the right climate, soil mixture, and meet their watering needs. In this article, organic gardening expert Logan Hailey documents all the steps you'll need to follow in order to successfully plant, grow, and care for bell peppers. Raw or cooked, sliced or diced, bell peppers are a colorful sweet addition to just about any summer meal. This warm-weather crop is a popular nightshade vegetable for any garden. If you loathe spice but still want a sweet crunch, this is the perfect veggie for you. They lack capsaicin, which is the active compound that gives hot peppers their heat. Plus, they yield in abundance all summer long. Peppers are generally a bit more challenging to grow because they need protection from the cold, plenty of water, and extra fertility. If you keep them happy, you will have plenty of sweet peppers for summer meals and winter preservation. Before deciding to add this vegetable to your garden, there’s plenty of important information that you’ll need to digest. You’ll want to learn everything you can about how they grow, before embarking on your pepper planting journey. Let’s dig into how to grow the best bell peppers your garden has ever seen! Propagation and Planting When it comes to propagation and planting, there are a few important factors you need to take into consideration for an effective harvest. Let’s look at some of the basics when it comes to first getting started with planting them in your garden. How Long Do They Take to Grow? It can take up to 90 days for a plant to mature. Bell peppers are warm-season annuals that take 60 to 90 days to mature. This means you need to get them started indoors early in the spring or purchase high-quality seedlings to transplant as soon as the weather is warm and the risk of frost has passed. Many varieties take 65-70 days to grow green fruits, but 85-90 days to produce the coveted ripe red bell peppers. How to Seed Bell Pepper plants perform best when the seeds are started in a tray indoors. Start pepper seeds indoors at least 8-10 weeks before the last frost. They are slow-growing and need plenty of time to get established so you can jumpstart your garden season. Use a south-facing window, grow lights, or a small greenhouse nursery to start pepper seedlings. It also helps to have a heating pad to get the best germination. You can begin with smaller cell trays, 6-pack trays, or a 4” pot. Some gardeners like to start with smaller cells and then up-pot their pepper plants after 3-4 weeks. Others simply start the seedlings in larger round or square pots. Either way, be sure your baby pepper plants are in a consistent warm space above 60°F, preferably with a heating pad underneath to keep soil temperatures around 80-90°F. Use a soil thermometer probe to determine how warm the soil is. Sow pepper seeds about 1/4” deep in a loamy well-drained potting mix. Keep consistently moist (but never soggy!) for 7 to 14 days until germination. They germinate slower in cold soil, so be patient or warm things up! Once the first cotyledons have appeared, back off the watering only slightly to ensure that the seedlings don’t dampen off (rot at the base). Cold treating your bell pepper seedlings can yield a larger harvest. Professional growers use a controlled cold treatment method on their pepper seedlings in order to increase the number of flowers and fruits later on. This is a more advanced technique that requires a controlled space like a small greenhouse with a thermometer and heater. To do it, wait until the third set of true leaves appear and then bring the minimum night temperature inside the nursery down to 53-55°F for 4 weeks. Keep the plants in full sunlight and protect them from harsh winds. After 4 weeks, bring the temperatures up to 70°F all day and night. Then, grow and plant as normal. The plants should be very resilient at this stage. You can yield at least twice as many peppers with this method, however, you will need to seed 1-2 weeks earlier than usual. Direct Sowing is Not Recommended Because bell peppers prefer warmer conditions, direct seeding is not recommended. Because peppers need hot conditions and a long growing season, directly seeding them into the garden is not recommended for most climates. Either buy happy seedlings from a local nursery or farm or grow your own seedlings indoors. Hardening Off Get your young pepper plant seedlings used to outdoor conditions by a method called hardening off. Pepper seedlings need to have an easy transition from the protected indoors to the unpredictable outdoor weather. Begin hardening off plants about 10 days before transplanting. You can do this by placing them in a protected (but still sunny) area outside and bringing them indoors at night for the first 4-5 days. Then, transition to leaving outside all night long while still in their pots. Give peppers plenty of time to adjust to bigger temperature swings. Transplanting Transplanting young seedlings should happen when the weather has warmed up. It is time to transplant when the soil is consistently warm and the risk of frost has passed (typically 2-3 weeks beyond the average last frost date for your region). Seedlings should have robust leaves and small buds, but no open flowers. To transplant bell peppers, begin by gently removing the seedling from its cell, ensuring that its roots have fully filled out the container but haven’t started twirling around and getting root bound. Create a planting hole a few inches deeper and wider than the root ball. Holding at the base of the plant, shimmy the plant out of the container and place it in the soil. Backfill the hole, keeping the soil surface aligned with the top of the root ball. You should never plant peppers deep the way you do with tomatoes. Plant Spacing It’s important to give this plant enough room to grow and have enough airflow. Space peppers at 9-12” apart in rows 24-36” apart, depending on the variety. If you plant them too close together they may become stressed from the competition for space, nutrients, and water, resulting in less vigorous plants. How to Water-In Transplants A phosphorus-rich solution is an excellent addition to your newly transplanted plant. To get your baby plants off to a good start, you can water-in the transplants with a high phosphorus solution such as a liquid seaweed fertilizer. This boosts root establishment and prevents transplanting shock. Use Row Cover Row cover not only keeps warmth and moisture in but also keeps bugs out. Whether they’re sweet or spicy, peppers like the heat. When we’re growing them in temperate climates like most of the United States, we have to do everything in our power to mimic those tropical conditions that peppers love. Row cover is a gardener’s best friend when establishing bell peppers. Floating fabric row covers can be secured over wire hoops to provide a buffer against cold weather and early plantings. The only caveat is that you need to open those low tunnels up if the temperatures get above 85°F. If you forget to remove the row cover on really hot days, blossom drop and heat damage can occur. Companion Planting Tomatoes can make excellent companion plants. Companion planting is a common organic gardening technique that helps improve garden growth by cultivating a diversity of plants that support each other symbiotically. Some bell pepper companion plants repel pests while others attract beneficial predatory insects or pollinators. Leguminous companion plants can add nitrogen to the soil, while ground cover companions help with weed competition.
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If you’re looking for a plant with beauty as rich as its history, a tree fern just might be your answer. Garden expert Christina Conner has all the details on caring for these gentle giants. When I was in college, my first big plant purchase (meaning – not rescued from the clearance rack or a mystery propagation) was an Australian tree fern named Felicia. Her lacy, delicate fronds added a Jurassic vibe to my indoor jungle of big-leaved banana trees, pothos, and fiddle-leaf figs. There are over 650 species worldwide. They’re endemic to the understories of tropical, sub-tropical, and cool temperate climes throughout the world. They tower in the rainforests of Queensland, Tasmania, Hawaii, New Guinea, and New Zealand. Tree ferns thrive where the air is humid, and the soil is rich with organic matter. Though beautiful, this is a finicky plant that would be a great option for an intermediate or advanced gardener. They require a lot of humidity and careful watering, which may prove challenging for a beginner gardener. Though Felicia didn’t survive the occasional neglect during holiday breaks and hectic finals weeks of my college years, my love of tree ferns remains. Tree ferns are older than dinosaurs. They predate the Jurassic period and go back at least 200 million years to the Triassic period, evolving alongside plants that became known as fern allies, like Equisetum hyemale, also known as Horsetail Rush. Incredibly, these Australian plants have even evolved to survive bushfires thanks to millennia of evolution and protection via their woolly, moist trunks. The unfurling of bright green fronds after a fire is a beautiful sign of resurgence. This article will focus on how to plant, grow, and care for the most common varieties found in plant stores: the Tasmanian Dicksonia antarctica and the Australian Sphaeropteris cooperi. D. antarctica can grow up to 30 feet in the wild, but cultivated varieties top out at about 12-18 feet. This southern Australian plant is more resistant to colder temperatures than other tree ferns, specifically S. cooperi. The Tasmanian variety is on the shorter side. It’s very slow growing – depending on the environment, one to three inches of growth can be expected per year. The more tropical of the two, S. cooperi stretches from the temperate rainforests of New South Wales to tropical far north Queensland. In its native areas, they grow up to 50 feet, with fronds stretching over 10 feet long. This is also the faster growing of the two. It can grow anywhere between half a foot to three feet per year, depending on the environment. While some gardeners have had luck overwintering Sphaeropteris cooperi in zone 8, some have experienced dieback during cold snaps. For this reason, we recommend planting it as a perennial only in zone 9b and above. Note: This plant also recently underwent a name change from being known as Cyathea cooperi. You might see nurseries and plant sources still refer to this Australian plant by its former name. Hailing from southern Queensland, this species prefers cooler climates and can be found in drier mountain areas. This Australian plant is slightly hardier than other species and can even tolerate direct sun. Its namesake, Rough Tree Fern, comes from the distinctive remnants of old fronds on its trunk. This tropical plant is native to most of the Hawaiian islands but is under threat from invasive species, deforestation, and overharvesting for gardening media. If you live in Hawaii, consider incorporating a Häpu‘u into your landscape. Note: S. cooperi should not be planted in Hawaii as it’s invasive and outcompetes native species. Despite the name, these ferns aren’t truly trees. Its “trunk” is one big modified rhizome covered with tiny hairs that absorb moisture and nutrients. From the crown, crosiers unfurl from a tight spiral over a few weeks to reveal new leaves called fronds. As they age, they drop, and new fronds continue to emerge in a slow cycle that builds height and turns young, shrublike plants into towering giants. The best way to acquire these Australian plants is to either buy from a nursery or online retailer or start from spore. Spores can be sourced from a friend or reputable source, like the American Fern Society spore exchange – the sooner you start a spore after collection, the better. To learn more about collecting and germinating spores, check out our article on Sword Ferns – these spore collection tips also work for other species. Whether you plant your fern indoors or outdoors will depend on climate and personal preference – D. antarctica does well in USDA zones 9-10, and S. cooperi does best in the temperatures in zones 8-11. That said, both species are great as houseplants, so fear not if you live in a different region.
Read MoreFind and share everyday cooking inspiration on Allrecipes. Discover recipes, cooks, and how-tos based on the food you love and the friends you follow.
We’re hot and spicy… literally!
Made with whole dried chiles, this will take your enchiladas to the NEXT level! No more store-bought sauce!
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Amazingly crisp-tender zucchini grilled with a lemon butter garlic sauce – a side dish that will go well with anything!
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Butter, onion, basil and garlic make this bundt a beautiful and savory table delight.
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"I searched and finally found this recipe on the internet. It is a copycat of the Bourbon Chicken sold in Chinese carry-outs in my hometown. This recipe is so good that my sons gobble it up leaving me just a spoonful. Their excuse was they thought I had eaten. Editor's Note: Named Bourbon Chicken because it was supposedly created by a Chinese cook who worked in a restaurant on Bourbon Street."
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