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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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‘Bacon’ avocados are mild and creamy, with excellent cold tolerance. This large avocado tree is a wonderful addition to the cooler climate landscape. Read on as gardening expert Melissa Strauss discusses how to care for this tasty tree. In recent years, avocado toast has taken the world by storm. From coast to coast, American restaurants have caught the avocado craze, and I don’t mind one bit! Amazing avocados are a powerhouse of nutrition. They are an excellent source of healthy fats and are chock full of an incredible number of nutrients. Avocados are not a new discovery, though, and in fact, they have been in cultivation for thousands of years. Central Americans have been enjoying the benefits of this fruit for a very long time. ‘Bacon’ is a hybrid variety that originated on the Buena Park ranch of James E. Bacon. It took about 20 years for Mr. Bacon to get around to registering the tree, but by the 1950s, it had gained popularity along the West Coast. Its excellent cold tolerance made it especially popular among gardeners in cooler climates. Its popularity continued to grow throughout the 1960s. Cold tolerance, in combination with overall attractiveness, were factors in its rise. Unfortunately, with the rise of the thick-skinned and richly flavored Hass, the 1980s saw a severe descent for ‘Bacon.’ In recent years, however, this variety has seen a resurgence. Many farmers and gardeners plant ‘Bacon’ specifically as a pollenizer for the ‘Hass’ avocado. Many home gardeners plant them for the same reason. They are tall, upright trees with attractive foliage and make nice ornamentals in addition to bearing a great quantity of fruit. This hybrid that hails from Buena Vista, California. However, its ancestry has roots in two different species of avocados that are native to Mexico. Avocados go back about 10,000 years, and their initial cultivation was in Tehuacan, Mexico, a Puebla state. ‘Bacon’ avocado has a tall, upright growth habit. It typically reaches about 20 feet tall but has been known to grow taller. It is a type B avocado, meaning that it requires another plant for pollination. A type B avocado has flowers that open as female on the first day and male the second. This trait encourages cross-pollination. This is an attractive avocado tree with deep green, glossy foliage. It often grows in a pyramidal shape, which is unusual for this genus. In terms of fruit, this variety produces a great number of large fruits. They are a thin-skinned type, and the skin does not peel away as easily as a Hass or other thick-skinned variety. The skin is bright green with yellow dots, and it does not darken as it ripens. ‘Bacon’ avocados have large seeds and pale greenish-yellow flesh. The creamy, buttery flesh is the main attraction for this avocado. It has a mild, slightly sweet flavor. Avocados are not difficult to propagate. You can propagate them by seeds, cuttings, layering, and grafting.
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If you’ve heard the snap and crack during a winter weather event, you’ve experienced the dread of a fallen limb or, worse, an entire tree. Garden expert Katherine Rowe looks at the best care for trees after a heavy snowfall to prevent further damage. Trees are the “bones” of the garden and those strong, magnificent bearers of everything from ornamental appeal and shade to soil stabilization, carbon sequestration, and wildlife nesting and forage. While able to withstand all kinds of conditions, heavy, wet snowfall and ice are a lot (literally) for tree branches to hold, causing them to be damaged under the weight. Winter and early spring storms can bring snow, ice, and high winds to cold climates. They also do severe damage in warmer areas that traditionally don’t experience wintry conditions. Specimens with multi stems or brittle limbs are most susceptible to breakage, but all trees can incur damage in winter extremes. How we address heavy snowfall is important in aftercare for susceptible branches, and the proper management keeps us from doing unintentional damage. Preventative measures help overall tree health in withstanding winter weather. Know the Most Susceptible Trees Both deciduous and evergreen tree species are susceptible to damage from heavy snowfall and ice. To hone in on those in your landscape with the greatest tendency to break, here are a few to keep an eye on: Weak-wooded and fast-growing deciduous species like cottonwood, ash, elm, willow, poplar Multistemmed selections like birch, arborvitae, juniper Trees with more than one central leader (main branch) Wide spreading canopies, horizontal branching Those with poor form (deep v-shaped or narrow angles) and deadwood Aged specimens After Care Once the snow falls or ice forms, there are measures to address weighted stems and any resulting breakage. One of the best first steps is to wait until ice and snow naturally melt in warming sunshine, usually a quick process, to assess the damage. For personal safety, we can’t overstate the importance of not standing beneath or working on large trees or branches impacted by heavy snowfall and winter damage. Limbs and entire trunks can snap or uproot at any time due to wet, saturated conditions. Interacting with branches can promote movement and cracking or dislodge hangers. Let snow and ice naturally melt in these cases, and enlist a certified arborist to assess preservation measures post-storm. Snow If heavy snowfall, not ice, is the main event, tend to young and small trees to dislodge the pack and prevent damage. When limbs bend under the weight of heavy snowfall, it’s tempting to give them a hardy shake. Vigorous shaking, though, can cause too much bounceback as stems are flexible. The snapback with the snow lifted may cause splitting. Instead of big shaking, do so lightly. You can also sweep the snow off the branch in an upward motion, keeping the weight off the end of the bending stem. Alternatively, lifting the branch is a safe means of displacement. Using a broom handle or other pole, lift the limb from below for subtle movement. Stand aside and watch for falling branches and snow as you lift. Don’t hit the stem to shed snow; it can damage bark and tissue. Ice Ice storms often do the most damage, sweeping lots of small and large debris from trees in a single event. To view the destruction of a severe ice storm is equivocal to the aftermath of a hurricane. A layer of ice makes stems brittle, and working with them leads to easy breakage. Ice is best left to melt in the sun, as opposed to using hot or cold water to accelerate melting on an above-freezing day. Water adds weight through saturation, and hot water can cause tissue damage in addition. Avoid lifting or shaking icy branches. If the tree shows bending, add a support prop to discourage further weight, but avoid trying to raise the branch. Remove the prop once the ice melts so branches can naturally return to shape. Treating Breakage If damage is minimal (like small twigs and branches), the woody grower will rejuvenate on its own in coming seasons. Breaks that need attention are ragged cuts, hanging limbs, and those not at a growth point. Consider pruning as a means toward recovery if: the tree is otherwise healthy the primary trunk and most significant branches are intact at least 50% of the crown remains the remainder is sound When a limb breaks, it can leave a jagged, splintered cut in the branch or junction point. Make a clean cut when possible to minimize exposed tissue. Reducing exposure prevents subsequent wound damage like moisture and disease intrusion. Trees are adept at healing, and a clean cut is a good foundation for warding off pathogens. New growth emerges at a healthy node before the cut. Trim back any small stem breaks to the first healthy branch. If the end of a large branch is gone, trim it back to a healthy branching node for growth to develop around the tip. On conifers, damage to the central leader is recoverable by pruning it back for new leaders to develop. Continued pruning fosters the best shape for sturdy, wind-resistant forms. Topping, removing, or reducing leaders on all trees results in less structural integrity. They become prone to future weakness and wind toppling. Tree Tying Tying the branches of susceptible evergreen trees is a means of preventing winter damage before a heavy snowfall or storm. This is most feasible for small specimens and young trees. In this method, branches are bundled upward toward the trunk using soft, flexible ties. The aim is to prevent weighty snow from accumulating. It also protects against ice damage. To tie stems, wrap flexible material (bungee cords, fabric strips, nylon hose) around the entire conifer. Create a cone shape with a gentle binding to support stems and shed snow. Remove the ties after the threat passes or late in the season as conditions moderate. Protective Barriers If you have a spot in your yard prone to drifts or piling, like snow sliding off a peaked roof, installing a temporary barrier is an option. These can stay in place all winter to protect individual specimens or go in for the short term before a storm. Wooden Structures Basic wooden structures become reusable forms to hold heavy snowfall off the tree. Repurpose wooden boards to build an A-frame or box structure around the tree. Secure the pieces using nails, screws, or hinges. With the frame in place, use a tarp, plastic sheeting, burlap, or landscape fabric to cover it during the weather event. Staple or tie the cover to the frame. After the weather clears, remove the cover to allow exposure to sunlight, moisture, and airflow. Keep the frame in place for the season, replacing the cover as needed. If leaving the cover in place for extended periods, opt for burlap since it’s breathable. In spring, store the frame for next year or repurpose the wood. Evergreen Boughs Clip evergreen boughs or repurpose your Christmas tree to position against small trees and shrubs. The added coverage collects and displaces snowfall. Arrange the boughs by leaning them against the existing growth so snow slides down and off. The extra insulation also helps against ice. Managing Bent Branches Leaders and stems may show a bent form even after the snow and ice passes. Without breakage present, they’ll likely rebound over time. Resist the urge to prop or tie them up. Let them reform naturally to minimize weakness or breakage. If drooping, bending, or distorting is still evident by early summer, strapping and wooden supports can help train the stems. Use tree staking supplies like flexible straps or fabric strips tied to bamboo or other wooden stakes for repositioning. Take off the strapping in one or two growing seasons to avoid girdling as the tree grows. Preventative Pruning Pruning contributes to long-term health and improves resistance against winter injury. The goal of preventative pruning is to direct growth to retain a sturdy structural form. Leave big cuts and structural decisions to professional arborists. Prune out dead, diseased, or crossing limbs any time of year. Stop any pruning by late summer to avoid generating new growth. Tender stems are susceptible to weakness and winter dieback, potentially damaging the limb in freezing situations. Pruning deciduous trees during dormancy allows full visibility of structure and form while growth is inactive. Pruning when dormant doesn’t promote new growth until temperatures warm. Prune to develop a central leader (primary branch) and a scaffolding structure suitable to the species. Start with young trees to foster the best form and strength.
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Are you looking to plant English bluebells in your garden? These European natives are some of the easiest bulbs to grow – a prime example of a ‘plant it and forget it’ flower.If you’re looking to recreate the calming, natural woodland feel in your own garden, you can’t go wrong planting bluebells. These stunning blue bulbs transform European forest floors into seas of blue throughout spring and will make just as much of an impact in pots or your flower beds. Botanically named Hyacinthoides non-scripta, this bulb is usually known as the English bluebell, common bluebell, or wild hyacinth. These woodland plants are not to be confused with Hyacinthoides hispanica or Spanish bluebells, a different species of Hyacinthoides. Their ease of growth and tolerance of shade makes them ideal plants for many gardeners, especially beginners. Choose one, mix them with other popular bulbs, or plant an entire field – the options are endless. Although known today as Hyacinthoides non-scripta, bluebells have had many different names in the past. These bulbs, native to western Europe, were dubbed Hyacinthus non-scriptus by the founder of binomial scientific naming, Carl Linnaeus. This genus is commonly known as hyacinths – an incredibly popular garden bulb. 50 years later, two German scientists changed the genus to Scilla, another bulb genus found across woodlands in Europe. Unfortunately, the scientific uncertainty didn’t stop there. Another 50 years later, a different German scientist transferred the plant to the Endymion genus. That’s why you may still find this plant under the names Endymion non-scriptus or Scilla non-scripta today. In 1934, French botanist Pierre Chouard changed the label to Hyacinthoides – literally meaning ‘like a hyacinth’ – where it remains today. Most wild bluebells are found across the United Kingdom and hold a rich history in this area. Several folklore stories have been passed down for generations, such as the belief that bluebell woodlands are inhabited by fairies. This also gave them the nickname fairy flowers. These folklore fairies are not known to play nice. According to legends, bluebells ring to call the fairies. If a human hears this bell, they will be visited by fairies and face an untimely death. Similarly, children with a desire to pick bluebells are warned that if they do, they will likely disappear, never to be seen again. Apart from these dark and twisted warnings, bluebells are beloved across the UK and in Europe – somewhat of an unofficial national flower. Walking through bluebell fields is a wonderful pastime. But, beware not to disturb the fairies, or face the consequences. While used as garden plants often, most bluebells are found in the wild. More than half of these wild bluebells can be found in woodlands around England. While their origin story is somewhat unclear, people believe these bluebell woodlands started springing up following the end of the last ice age. Due to their age – some are known to be hundreds of years old – these spaces are usually protected to prevent their decline. In some areas, these bulbs are considered endangered in their natural habitats. As a result, it is illegal to remove bluebell bulbs from the wild and plant them in your own garden or sell them off, according to the Wildlife and Countryside Act of the United Kingdom. While part of the same genus, English bluebells and Spanish bluebells are not the same plant. This distinction is important, as Spanish bluebells tend to be more invasive in some regions than their English counterparts. Both plants look quite similar but can be easily distinguished in spring by their flower type. English bluebell flowers are darker and curl over whereas Spanish bluebell flowers are lighter and remain upright. English bluebells are also slightly shorter than Spanish ones. It’s important to keep these two plants away from each other, or they will hybridize to form Hyacinthoides × massartiana. There are two ways to propagate bluebells: by sowing seeds or dividing bulbs. Propagating from seeds is the simplest method and provides the most natural look in the garden. Dividing is slightly more technical but produces quicker results.
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Do your favorite evergreens look like they’re about to destroy their pots? It’s time repot your Norfolk Island pine trees once they get too big for their containers. In this article, horticulture expert Matt Dursum shows you how to repot your trees in time for the holiday season. Norfolk Island pine trees are popular gifts during the holiday season. They grow well in containers and thrive in pleasant indoor spaces with bright indirect light. As easy as they are to maintain, they’ll outgrow their containers every three or four years. After all, these Araucarias can grow to 200 feet tall! However, don’t let their potential size intimidate you. They are slow growers, and with a little maintenance and repotting, you’ll have vibrant indoor trees for years to come. Keep reading below to learn the best ways to repot your Norfolk Island pine tree. Spring is the perfect time to repot your Norfolk Island pines. During this time, they send nutrients and water toward their apical buds. This active growth phase energizes your evergreen houseplants for the new season. With the extra energy, they’ll handle the stress of replanting. After the shock of repotting, they’ll divert their energy to their roots. Your trees will have the rest of spring and summer to grow their roots in the new soil. The longer days bring more sunshine and energy, making it easier for them to grow. If you repot them in fall or winter, your trees won’t have the nutrients and energy they need to handle the move. Also, the shorter days mean they’ll have less sunlight to draw energy from. Although they’ll probably survive repotting during these seasons, it’ll be harder for them to recover. Norfolk Island pines need a well-draining pot that’s at least one or two inches wider and deeper than their previous container. They flourish in earthenware or even 65-gallon grow bags. Earthenware pots work well because they regulate the temperature of your soil. Your Norfolk Island pines thrive in consistently warm temperatures. Besides the materials and size, the most important thing to look for is good drainage. Although they come from wet environments, they don’t like growing in soggy soil. This can lead to root rot and disease. Choosing the right type of soil is important for growing these sub-tropical evergreens in pots. In their native habitat of Norfolk Island, they grow in volcanic clay soils with high acidity. You can mimic this soil environment at home. Start by blending well-draining grit with sand and compost. Add peat moss for the right texture and porousness. Aim for a soil pH of around 4.5 to 5.5. Test your soil with a home test kit now and then to adjust it as needed to maintain a slightly acidic range. You can lower your soil’s pH by using sulfur or ammonia-containing fertilizers. Lowering your soil’s pH can be trickier than raising it, so keep testing until you get it right. When you’re ready to repot them into larger containers, handle them with care. Their roots are delicate and easy to damage. This is especially true when your plants are young. Even though their roots are delicate, young trees are easier to repot than mature ones. Norfolk Island pines may not be true pines—they’re Araucaria, similar to Chilean Monkey Puzzle trees—but they can still be sharp. Wear sturdy gardening gloves to protect your hands from their leaves and spikes around the trunk. Gloves don’t just protect you from your trees’ spikes. They also help prevent the spread of bacteria and fungus on the plants and your skin. Once you repot your evergreens, make sure they’re getting enough light. These trees need a lot of light to flourish and won’t handle too much shade. Without an abundance of sunlight, your trees may experience leggy growth. Move your containers near a south-facing window if you live in the Northern Hemisphere. Turn your containers every few days to make sure each part of your trees gets enough sunlight. They can handle lower light conditions in winter, but in spring and summer, take advantage of the bright long days to encourage vigorous growth. They will bounce back from the shock of repotting and thrive in their new containers. Give your newly replanted Araucarias a daily mist. This helps replicate their native environment and gives them enough moisture to stay hydrated. These towering giants-turned-houseplants thrive in misty environments with 50% humidity. Misting your plants is an easy way to make the surrounding air more humid. It also keeps the branches moist after transplanting. Dry and brittle branches can easily snap off, leaving the plants susceptible to infection. After misting for one or two months, your trees should be good to go on their own. You can always use a humidifier if the air is continuously dry. Overwatering your newly transplanted Norfolk Island pines can lead to a lot of problems. These evergreens have delicate roots that are susceptible to root rot. Water them consistently, but let the upper layer of soil dry out between watering. Allow the containers to drain completely before giving them another soak. If you notice your tree branches turning brown and brittle, you’ve restricted their water too much. Water them a little more until you see their bright green color return. Healthy foliage should be vibrant and soft. Mature Norfolk Island pines growing outdoors don’t need fertilizer. However, when growing your evergreens indoors, a bit of nutrient-dense plant food helps. After repotting in the spring, try using a weak liquid houseplant fertilizer. This will help the roots grow and form a strong root system. When you see new growth appear in spring, feed your plants some more. Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter when new growth slows down. Over-fertilizing can cause problems with your plants and lead to nutrient buildup in the soil. Because these trees love slightly acidic soil, look for a liquid conifer fertilizer or food with extra sulfur or ammonia. Always follow the directions on your fertilizer packet. Sometimes, the stress of repotting can weaken your evergreen houseplants and their root systems. They may start to lean or, at worst, fall over. When this happens, try sticking a stake in the soil to support them. Wooden or metal stakes work the best. Make sure to disinfect the stakes before sticking them in your soil. Pests can hitch a ride on wood and quickly infect your container’s soil. After disinfecting, carefully slide the stake into the soil away from the root system. Once you’ve staked your soil, use string to wrap around the trunk and the stake. As the roots become stronger and more established, you can remove the stake and let your trees stand on their own. Watch your trees after removing them, in case they need more support. Norfolk Island pines generally have few pests to worry about. However, indoor plants can sometimes experience issues related to overwatering and, occasionally, bug infestations. This can especially be true after repotting. Give your trees a thorough check after you repot them. Look for aphids, spider mites, scale, and mealybugs. If you used soil from the outdoors, there’s a chance of Armillaria fungus infecting the plants. The most common problems to look out for are not pests and diseases, but environmental factors. Repotting changes the soil pH and nutrient composition your trees are used to. Browning or yellowing leaves or dropping branches mean your trees are undergoing stress.
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