info@theculinarycatalysts.com
- From Garden to Plate: Fresh Flavors, Naturally Grown
info@theculinarycatalysts.com
Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
gardening experts
The weeping fig tree, botanically Ficus benjamina, is excellent for a shady position outdoors in a tropical environment. It also makes a good houseplant in a large pot.Ficus benjamina, also known as the weeping fig tree, is a beautiful and beneficial tree that comes from Southeast Asia and Northern Australia. It’s the official tree of Bangkok, and we here at Epic Gardening can definitely see why! The tree can be grown in the ground in certain regions and makes a lovely houseplant in containers. It’s not hard to care for, which means you can grow one at home in smaller or larger spaces. In this guide you’ll learn exactly how to grow a weeping fig plant in your home, as well as the beneficial properties it has for your health.The weeping fig tree (Ficus benjamina) is one of the best plants to have in your home when it comes to removing formaldehyde from the air. It also purifies air of toluene and xylene. In fact, it was studied by NASA as a plant to include in space flight due to its toxin-cleansing properties.Ficus benjamina is also known to have roots that can cause significant damage to soil structure outside its native range of Asia and Australia. They can lift sidewalks, and foundations when allowed to grow too tall. In areas that are prone to hurricanes, they can fall over in the face of gale winds. In this regard, unless you live in a tropical region, keep one as a houseplant, or outdoors as a very short shrub.It can grow up to ten feet indoors but can also be grown outdoors, where it gets considerably taller. It’s a staple of landscaping for hospitals, parks, and playgrounds around the country. Some of the tallest ones can reach over 100 feet tall! As the plant ages, the leaves will turn a darker green. The leaves have a glossy look to them, almost as if they have been polished. These trees are monoecious, and the inflorescence is small, pinkish-white, and egg-shaped. They are one of three types: male, fertile, or sterile female flowers. Each of these flower types has a distinct morphology. Male flowers have free sepals and a pronounced stamen. Fertile flowers have three to four sepals and an egg-shaped ovary. When pollinated, the flowers produce berries (which are actually ripe figs) that contain seeds.To plant in the ground, choose a location with well-draining soil and partial to full sunlight, ensuring it is away from structures or underground pipes, as its roots can be invasive. Dig a hole twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball to allow roots to spread easily. Mix the soil with compost or organic matter to improve fertility and drainage. Remove the plant from its container and gently loosen the roots before placing it in the hole at the same depth as it was in the pot. Fill the hole with the amended soil, pressing it gently to eliminate air pockets. Water deeply immediately after planting, and apply a layer of mulch around the base to retain moisture and regulate temperature. Regular pruning will help maintain its size and shape in the landscape. To plant in a pot, choose a container with drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. Select a pot slightly larger than the current root ball to allow room for growth. Gently remove the plant from its original container, loosening the roots if compacted. Place the plant in the new pot so the root ball sits at the same depth as before, then fill the surrounding space with the potting mix, pressing it lightly to secure the plant. Water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom, then allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. Position the pot in a location with bright, indirect light, and avoid sudden changes in light or temperature, which can stress the plant.
Read More
If you want to grow a majestic Coastal Redwood in your landscape, join gardening expert Logan Hailey as she describes how to plant and care for the world's tallest tree! Do you want to grow the tallest tree in the world? If you live between Central California and Southwestern Oregon, you can grow the iconic Coast Redwood tree in its native zone. Also known as California Redwood, these tremendously tall trees grow wild exclusively along the southern parts of the Pacific Northwest Coast. They rarely thrive more than 50 miles inland. However, the stately conifers can be cultivated in many locations around the world with some extra maintenance and modifications. For example, California’s Coast Redwoods have successfully grown on plantations in New Zealand since the early 1900s. Even Hawaii has redwood forests on both Maui and Kauai, but the trees only grow successfully above 6,000 feet in this tropical zone. In colder and drier regions, the redwood cousin, Giant Sequoia—native to the Sierra Nevada Mountains—is a reliable option for a home landscape. This species can also be grown on the East Coast, but they tend to be much shorter. Let’s dig in how to plant and care for your very own Coast Redwood. This tree easily out-lives your great grandchildren and acts like a living legacy of your love for gardening! Crowned the tallest tree in the world, Coast Redwoods are a breathtaking sight to behold. People from all over the globe trek to Northern California to experience the last of wild old-growth redwood forests. These one-of-a-kind conifers grow up to 300 feet tall and can live to be 3,000 years old or more. Only about 5% of the original redwoods remain in the world, but you can play a role in keeping this ancient species alive by planting it in your landscape. Fortunately, this tree doesn’t only grow in its native range. Sequoia sempervirens can be cultivated as a landscape tree in many other places. With proper moisture, temperature, and soil, the seedlings grow into magnificent ornamental specimens in a variety of climates. The species is also one of the fastest-growing trees, averaging a whopping 3 to 10 feet per year! Coast Redwood, or California Redwood, is botanically known as Sequoia sempervirens. It is the tallest tree in the world, reaching up to 300 feet tall. One of the fastest-growing conifers, Coast Redwood is native to a limited range on the foggy Pacific Northwest coast, but it can be cultivated in other areas. These fire-resistant, tannin-rich, ultra-resilient trees have been around since the age of the dinosaurs. They have significant ecological value, and redwood forests even create their own weather patterns! Sequoia sempervirens, or the Coast Redwood, is the tallest recorded tree on the planet, reaching heights up to 300 feet. For comparison, the tallest pine tree is about 260 feet, and the tallest tanoak is 160 feet. A redwood relative, the Giant Sequoia or Sequoiadendron giganteum is the largest tree in the world by volume, but they don’t grow quite as tall as Coast Redwoods. Both species can live to be thousands of years old. They are endemic to California and a small portion of Southern Oregon. It is perfectly legal to grow a redwood in your garden, but it is illegal to cut down, dig up, or propagate a wild protected tree. Instead, you must propagate redwoods from seeds or nursery stock. It is important to match the right species to your climate or make significant modifications to keep the tree alive outside of its native California range: Coast Redwoods are very picky about their environment, requiring lots of humid or foggy air, moist but well-drained soils, and mild temperatures between 30-70°F (-1 to 21°C). Dawn Redwoods, native to China, are more flexible and desirable for ornamental use. Giant Sequoias are ideal for dryer, colder regions, and low-elevation mountains. This coniferous (cone-bearing) tree can be propagated by seed, cutting, or sucker shoots. The seeds tend to have low germination rates, so vegetative propagation is the most common. You can also find varieties of Sequoia sempervirens seedlings at ornamental tree nurseries. If you want to get the largest tree possible in a short amount of time, purchase an established redwood from a tree nursery. Most propagation methods take one to three years to produce saplings large enough to plant in the ground. Growing from seed is a great way to enhance the genetic diversity of redwoods. However, it is not recommended for home gardeners who want a reliable sapling to grow as a shade tree. If you’re growing for ornamental purposes, it is much easier to start with cuttings or established saplings from a nursery. Seed propagation is usually reserved for redwood nerds who are invested in learning about the species. A mature redwood tree can produce up to 100,000 seeds per year, but only about 1 in every 12 seeds is viable. This means the germination rate is very low, and you must plant a lot of seeds to ensure success. To make matters more complicated, most of the seeds are released before the cones fall to the ground. So, if you collect cones from a wild redwood forest, they likely have already lost their seeds unless a squirrel or storm dropped the seed-filled cone to the ground prematurely. So how does one acquire viable seeds? You can purchase redwood tree seeds online or collect them from a mature forest after a major rainstorm. The best time to find redwood seeds is in November and December after a heavy rain. The wind of a storm gives you the best chance to find fallen cones that still have their seeds. Be sure you have permission to collect cones from the area! The U.S. Forest Service allows small quantities of green cones to be collected as long as they are below Incidental Use thresholds. The tiny seeds are about the size of a tomato seed. They must be cold stratified (refrigerated for 20-30 days) to mimic the cold exposure of a natural winter outdoors. It’s best to collect all the cones, place them in a bag or box, and shake them to release the seeds. Move the mix into a ziplock bag with a moist perlite or coco coir blend. The bag should be sealed and occasionally misted with water to ensure it doesn’t dry out. Growing redwoods from cuttings is faster and often more successful than growing from seed. The plants start with more growth than seedlings and take an average of two to three years to be ready to plant outdoors. However, cuttings are a form of vegetative (clonal) propagation that does not offer the genetic diversity of sexual (seed) propagation. Still, this method is most desirable for home gardeners and tree nurseries because you can guarantee you will have the same genetics as the mother redwood. Have you heard of redwood fairy rings? One of the most unique things about this tree is its ability to grow in family groups. The shallow, wide-spreading roots intertwine with the roots of other trees around them. When an old tree dies, the mother tree sends up sprouts from its roots to grow new saplings. These basal sprouts can be found along cut stumps, fallen logs, or expansive redwood root zones. The ability to sprout from the base is very rare in conifer trees. These “sucker shoots” or “stump shoots” are typically found growing in circles around the central stump, hence the nickname “fairy rings.” Scientists used to think that all the shoots in a fairy ring were genetically identical clones, but recent evidence shows that multiple genetics can be intermingled in the circle. Even after the parent tree dies, the young redwoods continue to grow in a circle to stabilize and nourish each other. The only reliable and legal way to propagate sucker shoots is from a mature suckering tree or a fairy ring on your own property or in a neighbor’s yard (with permission). It is illegal to dig up or cut any portion of a wild redwood tree because it is a protected species. The main benefit of propagating by sucker is extremely rapid growth, growing up to 8-10 feet in the first year thanks to nourishment from the parent roots. However, this only works if the sucker has a strong network of fine roots that can be dug up. Transplanting a Coast Redwood is similar to planting other types of trees. If you don’t live in the species’ native growing zone, it is important to amend the soil to ensure proper drainage. Generally, a tree needs at least two or three years of growth (from seed) to be ready to plant outdoors. But if you purchase an established potted tree or bare root specimen, you can plant it right away.
Read More
Do your favorite evergreens look like they’re about to destroy their pots? It’s time repot your Norfolk Island pine trees once they get too big for their containers. In this article, horticulture expert Matt Dursum shows you how to repot your trees in time for the holiday season. Norfolk Island pine trees are popular gifts during the holiday season. They grow well in containers and thrive in pleasant indoor spaces with bright indirect light. As easy as they are to maintain, they’ll outgrow their containers every three or four years. After all, these Araucarias can grow to 200 feet tall! However, don’t let their potential size intimidate you. They are slow growers, and with a little maintenance and repotting, you’ll have vibrant indoor trees for years to come. Keep reading below to learn the best ways to repot your Norfolk Island pine tree. Spring is the perfect time to repot your Norfolk Island pines. During this time, they send nutrients and water toward their apical buds. This active growth phase energizes your evergreen houseplants for the new season. With the extra energy, they’ll handle the stress of replanting. After the shock of repotting, they’ll divert their energy to their roots. Your trees will have the rest of spring and summer to grow their roots in the new soil. The longer days bring more sunshine and energy, making it easier for them to grow. If you repot them in fall or winter, your trees won’t have the nutrients and energy they need to handle the move. Also, the shorter days mean they’ll have less sunlight to draw energy from. Although they’ll probably survive repotting during these seasons, it’ll be harder for them to recover. Norfolk Island pines need a well-draining pot that’s at least one or two inches wider and deeper than their previous container. They flourish in earthenware or even 65-gallon grow bags. Earthenware pots work well because they regulate the temperature of your soil. Your Norfolk Island pines thrive in consistently warm temperatures. Besides the materials and size, the most important thing to look for is good drainage. Although they come from wet environments, they don’t like growing in soggy soil. This can lead to root rot and disease. Choosing the right type of soil is important for growing these sub-tropical evergreens in pots. In their native habitat of Norfolk Island, they grow in volcanic clay soils with high acidity. You can mimic this soil environment at home. Start by blending well-draining grit with sand and compost. Add peat moss for the right texture and porousness. Aim for a soil pH of around 4.5 to 5.5. Test your soil with a home test kit now and then to adjust it as needed to maintain a slightly acidic range. You can lower your soil’s pH by using sulfur or ammonia-containing fertilizers. Lowering your soil’s pH can be trickier than raising it, so keep testing until you get it right. When you’re ready to repot them into larger containers, handle them with care. Their roots are delicate and easy to damage. This is especially true when your plants are young. Even though their roots are delicate, young trees are easier to repot than mature ones. Norfolk Island pines may not be true pines—they’re Araucaria, similar to Chilean Monkey Puzzle trees—but they can still be sharp. Wear sturdy gardening gloves to protect your hands from their leaves and spikes around the trunk. Gloves don’t just protect you from your trees’ spikes. They also help prevent the spread of bacteria and fungus on the plants and your skin. Once you repot your evergreens, make sure they’re getting enough light. These trees need a lot of light to flourish and won’t handle too much shade. Without an abundance of sunlight, your trees may experience leggy growth. Move your containers near a south-facing window if you live in the Northern Hemisphere. Turn your containers every few days to make sure each part of your trees gets enough sunlight. They can handle lower light conditions in winter, but in spring and summer, take advantage of the bright long days to encourage vigorous growth. They will bounce back from the shock of repotting and thrive in their new containers. Give your newly replanted Araucarias a daily mist. This helps replicate their native environment and gives them enough moisture to stay hydrated. These towering giants-turned-houseplants thrive in misty environments with 50% humidity. Misting your plants is an easy way to make the surrounding air more humid. It also keeps the branches moist after transplanting. Dry and brittle branches can easily snap off, leaving the plants susceptible to infection. After misting for one or two months, your trees should be good to go on their own. You can always use a humidifier if the air is continuously dry. Overwatering your newly transplanted Norfolk Island pines can lead to a lot of problems. These evergreens have delicate roots that are susceptible to root rot. Water them consistently, but let the upper layer of soil dry out between watering. Allow the containers to drain completely before giving them another soak. If you notice your tree branches turning brown and brittle, you’ve restricted their water too much. Water them a little more until you see their bright green color return. Healthy foliage should be vibrant and soft. Mature Norfolk Island pines growing outdoors don’t need fertilizer. However, when growing your evergreens indoors, a bit of nutrient-dense plant food helps. After repotting in the spring, try using a weak liquid houseplant fertilizer. This will help the roots grow and form a strong root system. When you see new growth appear in spring, feed your plants some more. Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter when new growth slows down. Over-fertilizing can cause problems with your plants and lead to nutrient buildup in the soil. Because these trees love slightly acidic soil, look for a liquid conifer fertilizer or food with extra sulfur or ammonia. Always follow the directions on your fertilizer packet. Sometimes, the stress of repotting can weaken your evergreen houseplants and their root systems. They may start to lean or, at worst, fall over. When this happens, try sticking a stake in the soil to support them. Wooden or metal stakes work the best. Make sure to disinfect the stakes before sticking them in your soil. Pests can hitch a ride on wood and quickly infect your container’s soil. After disinfecting, carefully slide the stake into the soil away from the root system. Once you’ve staked your soil, use string to wrap around the trunk and the stake. As the roots become stronger and more established, you can remove the stake and let your trees stand on their own. Watch your trees after removing them, in case they need more support. Norfolk Island pines generally have few pests to worry about. However, indoor plants can sometimes experience issues related to overwatering and, occasionally, bug infestations. This can especially be true after repotting. Give your trees a thorough check after you repot them. Look for aphids, spider mites, scale, and mealybugs. If you used soil from the outdoors, there’s a chance of Armillaria fungus infecting the plants. The most common problems to look out for are not pests and diseases, but environmental factors. Repotting changes the soil pH and nutrient composition your trees are used to. Browning or yellowing leaves or dropping branches mean your trees are undergoing stress.
Read More
Although planting a tree is an exciting task, rushed planting and a lack of knowledge can lead to unhealthy trees. Join plant expert Briana Yablonski to learn common tree planting mistakes you should avoid. Adding trees to your property is a great way to provide natural shade, support pollinators, and enjoy homegrown fruit. But planting trees isn’t as simple as sticking them in the ground and walking away. Common mistakes include planting at the wrong depth, watering improperly, and choosing the wrong species can all lead to unhealthy or dead trees. Whether you’re planting your first tree or adding to your backyard orchard, it’s helpful to know some common tree planting mistakes. Avoiding these 11 errors will increase the odds you’ll end up with a healthy tree. Not all trees are well suited for every climate, sun exposure, and soil type. While you may dream of growing a weeping willow or flowering cherry in your front yard, planting a species that doesn’t fit into the surrounding environment will likely lead to an unhealthy plant and unhappy humans. When choosing a new tree for your property, take note of the following characteristics and choose a species that will thrive in that environment. Hardiness zone: Most species are suitable for various hardiness zones, but some will suffer when exposed to extreme heat or cold. Sun exposure: Whether you’re planting in full sun or shade, you can find a variety for the type of light you’re working with. Soil moisture: Some species, like willows and alders, require moist soil, and others grow best when the soil remains slightly dry. Although you can supplement the moisture level through irrigation, choosing a species well suited to the native moisture level will simplify care. Soil type: Some grow best in loose sand, while others thrive in dense clay. Available space: Ensure you have enough space for the full size at maturity. For instance, if you’re growing on a balcony, you’ll have to skip larger trees. Planting at the Wrong Time of Year Planting at the right time of year is crucial to its success. Aim to get your saplings in the ground when they’re dormant, which means they’re not actively growing. While the plants will take time to put on new growth, dormant trees will face less stress during the transition from a container to the ground. Fall and spring are both great times for planting trees. If you plant in the fall, wait until hot temperatures have subsided. However, try to plant a few weeks before freezing temperatures arrive. Planting around the time the leaves fall from the trees is a good bet. If you plant in the spring, get saplings in the ground before the buds break. It’s okay if the saplings experience a few frosts after you put them in the ground, but protect the new transplants with row cover if a frost arrives after bud break. Choosing a Poor Location While trees may seem hardier than tender annuals and vegetative perennials, they’re still sensitive to the type of light, moisture, and soil. If you add a tree to a less-than-ideal area, it may not thrive. Along with looking at environmental conditions like hardiness zone and light, you should also think about the tree’s growth. A tree may grow well next to your house or beside a brick wall for a few years, but once it reaches a certain size, it can begin encroaching on structures and utility lines. Therefore, it’s important to account for the tree’s growth before selecting a location. Look for above-ground obstacles like buildings, power lines, and other trees. While you can prune the tree to avoid these obstructions, it will involve consistent work. Next, think about low-lying items like sidewalks and driveways. As tree roots expand, they can cause these surfaces to buckle and crack. You should also consider if the roots’ spread will endanger underground utilities. If you want to plant a tree close to obstacles, look for a species that’s short and/or narrow. It helps to look at the tree’s mature shape when deciding which species to plant. Not Checking for Utilities Before Digging Before you dig a hole, you should always call to check and see if there are utility lines underground. Digging into an electric line or water supply pipe while planting a tree is not only dangerous, but it can be a costly mistake. Even if you don’t think any utilities are buried in your intended planting area, it doesn’t hurt to check. Most utility companies will come out and mark utility lines for no charge. It may take a few days or weeks for them to make it out to your property, so contact them well before your intended planting date. If you’re not sure who to call, dial 811 to be directed to the proper resources. Digging Too Small of a Hole One of the most common mistakes gardeners make when planting trees involves digging a hole that’s too small. Since 80% of tree roots are in the top two feet of soil, you want to make it as easy as possible for the roots to grow horizontally. Digging a wide hole loosens the soil and speeds root expansion. Regardless of which type and size of tree you’re planting, you should always dig the hole at least three times as wide as the root ball. You don’t have to dig the entire hole at the same depth. Instead, you can create a saucer-shaped hole that’s deep in the middle and shallower towards the edges. The roots will have an easier time growing into loosened soil than compacted soil. Plus, removing the soil gives you an opportunity to remove any large rocks that would inhibit root growth. Not Watering Enough Supplying newly planted trees with an adequate amount of moisture helps them recover from the stress of planting, and saves you from the headaches of moisture mistakes. Since young saplings and bare root specimens don’t have developed root systems, they require more frequent watering than larger trees. If they don’t have access to enough water, they will have difficulty regulating their temperatures, completing photosynthesis, and fighting disease. Many gardeners start on the right foot and keep their trees well watered in the weeks following planting. But as a few more weeks pass, life gets busy, and many forget to provide the new tree with water. This lack of irrigation can prove especially problematic during hot and dry summers. The amount of water to apply depends on the soil type, tree size, and rainfall. However, you should generally apply one-and-a-half gallons of water for each inch of the tree’s trunk. For example, supply three gallons of water to a two-inch wide tree and four-and-a-half gallons to a three-inch wide tree. The watering frequency typically decreases as the time from the planting date increases. A good rule of thumb is to water every day during the two weeks following planting and then every two to three weeks in the following ten weeks. While these are good recommendations, check the soil moisture and adjust as necessary. You can supply the water with a hose or bucket or automate watering with the help of a drip irrigation system and a timer. Regardless of which irrigation method you use, aim for infrequent deep waterings rather than frequent shallow waterings. Deep irrigation encourages the growth of deep roots and helps the plant withstand wind and drought. Watering Too Much Yes, there is such a thing as watering too much! Overwatering can prevent the roots from completing gas exchange, taking up nutrients, and properly absorbing water. Constantly moist soil also increases the chances that roots will develop fungal diseases. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between watering, and remember to water deeply and infrequently. Watering your plants a little each day will keep the soil moist and discourage the development of deep roots. Planting Too Deep Whether you start with a bare root or a potted tree, planting at the proper depth is crucial. If you plant too deep, the upper roots often grow around the trunk and strangle it. At first, this underground issue isn’t noticeable. But after a few years, a girdled tree often displays a quick and serious decline. You may notice premature leaf drop, yellowing leaves, reduced growth, and intense disease and insect pressure. Eventually, your once-healthy maple or birch dies. So, how deep should you plant your tree? No matter which type of material you’re starting with, use the trunk’s structure as a guide. Sometimes, nursery workers plant potted saplings too deep in their containers. Therefore, you can’t assume planting the top of the potting soil flush with the ground will lead to the correct depth. First, look for a flare in the trunk. This is the point where the straight trunk begins curving out before the roots. Placing the flare an inch or two above the soil surface is ideal. If you’re planting a grafted tree, keep the graft a few inches above the soil line. A trunk flare is often hard to see in small saplings. If that’s the case, you can use the top-most roots to guide the depth. These large, structural roots should be located one to three inches below the soil surface. If you’re growing on a slope, you’ll need to make some adjustments to ensure both the uphill and downhill roots are at the proper depth. First, flatten out the area where you plan to plant by digging into the slope or adding extra soil. Once you have a flat area, plant as you normally would. Starting with a Rootbound Sapling When you’re choosing a specimen, you have three main options: bare root, container-grown, and wrapped. If you start with a specimen growing in a pot, you should make sure it isn’t rootbound. If plants remain in their pots for too long, the roots eventually begin circling the bottom of the container. When you remove these rootbound saplings from their containers and place them in the ground, they often have a difficult time adapting to their new home. They have plenty of roots, but they have a difficult time spreading throughout the soil. It’s best to avoid purchasing rootbound trees. However, if you’re starting with a container-grown specimen with tightly-packed roots, you can take a few steps to help it adjust to planting. Cutting an X through the bottom of the roots will help them expand. You can also use your hands to lightly pull the roots apart. Improper Mulching Too much mulch, too little mulch, and improper mulch placement can all negatively impact trees. Therefore, it’s important to apply wood chips, straw, and any other type of organic matter in just the right way to protect them. When you add mulch, add two to four inches around the base of your tree. This will help protect the roots against both hot and cold temperatures and limit evaporation. Avoid applying more than four inches of mulch since too thick of a layer can lead to issues with airflow and water infiltration. Make sure to leave a few inches of space surrounding the trunk free of mulch, and never mound the mulch against the trunk. Creating a mulch volcano or mulch pyramid leads to multiple issues and a slow but serious decline in tree health. It can trap moisture and cause the bark to decay, which leaves the plant more susceptible to pests and disease. Roots often grow into the mounded mulch and sometimes girdle the trunk. As the mulch decays, these above-ground roots are left open to the air and quickly dehydrate. Not Protecting from Pests Since mature trees are expensive and often impractical, gardeners usually start with plants that are less than ten feet tall. These small plants are easier to plant and better able to adapt to their new home, but they’re also more susceptible to attacks from pests. Mammals like deer and beavers find the tender young growth to be delicious. These critters can eat through an entire trunk in a single day and kill the tree. Fortunately, you can easily protect from these pests. Wrapping the trunk with wire or heavy plastic mesh will make it impossible for the mammals to reach it. You should also keep an eye out for insect pests. Although you may not see any pests immediately after planting, caterpillars may appear later on. If they are causing serious damage to the leaves, you can remove them by hand or spray the foliage with Bt. Sometimes, a strong stream of water from a hose is enough.
Read MoreFind and share everyday cooking inspiration on Allrecipes. Discover recipes, cooks, and how-tos based on the food you love and the friends you follow.
We’re hot and spicy… literally!
This hearty Italian Easter Pie is a rustic meal to serve for Easter Dinner.
Read More
Chili’s copycat recipe made at home with an amazingly creamy melt-in-your-mouth alfredo sauce. And you know it tastes 10000x better!
Read More
With a simple spice rub, the chicken is cooked quickly on the stovetop! Serve with pico de gallo, avocado + lime wedges!
Read More
Fresh, quick and easy! Loaded with chicken, asparagus, tomatoes and whole wheat pasta. Use homemade or store-bought pesto!
Read MoreOur email newsletter delivers gardening solutions, new recipes and special
The Culinary Catalysts updates. It's always free and you can unsubscribe any time.
We really want to enable home cooks, all things being equal, to plan delightful and exceptional dinners in their own kitchen.
Know More
