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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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All About Ube Before we get started, let’s clear up the yam/sweet potato confusion. Though they look and taste similar, these aren’t the same plants. Sweet potato is actually part of the morning glory family while winged yam is part of the “true yam family”. Dioscorea alata is grown all around the world, so it has many different names. The common name winged yam comes from the stem’s appearance. It’s square-shaped with flat ridges, or “wings”, lining the corners. You may also hear it called “water yam”, which is referring to the tuber’s high water content. These plants are also referred to as “ube” or “ubi” in Phillippine cuisine. Winged yam is such an old plant that its exact origin is unknown, though it’s believed to have come from Southeast Asia. Called a cultigen, this species has only been known in cultivation and may even be a hybrid. It came to North America in the 1500s, when it was introduced to Florida by the Spanish and Portugeuse. Today, ube root crop remains a staple food in Southeast Asia, West Africa, and South America – especially the Philippines. There, it’s used primarily in desserts from cake to ice cream to frappes. Despite its popularity as a dessert-dish, some countries have replaced winged yam with the sweet potato and other crops. In the US, winged yam has gotten a little out of hand. They’re ruthless plants that will take over any space they find. Winged yam has escaped cultivation in the southern United States, the Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. It’s so destructive that the Florida exotic pest plant council has registered it as a fully-fledged invasive species. As gardeners of this plant, we’re responsible for keeping it contained. It’s not exactly high-maintenance, but growing and containing winged yam is no small feat. The vines have been known to reach 20-30 feet tall, often climbing nearby trees. They grow so quickly that some gardeners have reported 8 inches of growth in a single day. The vines aren’t the only thing busy growing. Each plant sports one underground tuber. If left unharvested, the tubers will grow and grow until they’ve reached 8 feet long. Sometimes, the vines will grow smaller, aerial tubers above ground (similar to the air potato). These bulbils are meant to develop into new plants and are excellent for propagation. It may be fast-growing, but these plants aren’t invincible. They only last through the winter in zones 9-11. In colder locations, they must be grown as an annual. Come harvest time, it’s vital that you make sure you cook the tubers completely before eating as they’re toxic when raw! If any ube tastes bitter, do not eat it. Cooking should render this safe, but the bitterness is a warning sign. Winged Yam Varieties In most places, ube is ube. In others though, especially the Philippines, there are many different varieties of this species. Kinampay is considered the original winged yam species. It’s nicknamed “Queen of Philippine Yams” and has 4 further varietes: tamisan, binanag, kabus-ok, and binato. With these yams, different varieties often mean different colors. While most, such as Zambales, stick to the classic purple, others have varying shades of white. The Basco variety, for example, is white with a lavender tinge. The Leyte variety ranges from a lovely cream color to pink. Planting Like potatoes, winged yam is usually grown by planting chunks of the tuber. You can buy the starter pieces online or acquire some from a friend. Small tubers can be planted whole, while large ones can be cut into several pieces. Let the pieces dry out before planting or sprouting them. In the tropics, Dioscorea alata can be planted any time of year, but usually just after the rainy season. Here in the US, that’s equivalent to spring. Don’t plant your yams in the ground until all chances of frost have passed. It takes anywhere from 3-12 weeks for the tubers to sprout. You can get ahead of schedule by sprouting the yam pieces before planting. Just stick them in a bucket of soil and keep them moist. Once they sprout, you can transplant them into their permanent homes. Before planting in the ground, till the soil well. The growing tubers will appreciate the extra room that loose soil gives it. Plant the tubers 4-5 inches deep and 2 feet apart. It’s recommended to add organic mulch on top to hold in water and prevent weeds. Dioscorea alata can be grown in containers, but you’ll have to watch the size. Use at least a 5-gallon container and harvest the yam before it outgrows its home. Care Winged yam species are pretty rough-and-tumble plants. However, you’ll get the best results by following their care preferences. Here’s what we recommend. Sun and Temperature Give your winged yam full to partial sunlight. Since it’s from the tropics, it likes to be nice and warm; at least 70°F is preferable. If you live in zones 9-11, you can grow these plants as perennials. Otherwise, the weather will only allow this yam to grow seasonally. Freezing temperatures can cause damage to the roots and green growth. Water and Humidity Dioscorea is drought-tolerant, but it thrives best with consistent moisture. Water it whenever the top few inches of the soil begins to dry out. Drip lines or soaker hoses work really well for this plant. When the plants start to die at the end of the growing season, stop watering so they won’t rot. Humidity isn’t a huge factor here, so long as you keep the soil moist during the summer. Soil Dioscorea alata species will grow in a variety of soils. For optimal growth, though, the soil should have all the best features. It should be loamy, fertile, full of organic material, and well-draining. It’s also important that the soil is loose so the tubers can grow easily. A neutral or slightly acidic pH will be fine. Fertilizing Dioscorea alata isn’t too picky about fertilizer as long as it has nutrients. Stock the soil with organic matter before planting and use mulch. If you’d like to give the plant and aerial tubers an extra boost, apply a balanced fertilizer a couple of times during the growing season. Pruning and Training As a climber, this vine will much appreciate a trellis to grow on. Plus, having a support will boost your plant’s growth. When it’s climbing, the vines will spread out and expose more leaf surface for photosynthesis. Use a trellis, fence, or even a host tree. If the vines don’t take to the support on their own, gently wind them around it. If necessary, tie them loosely with a scrap of fabric. If your plant outgrows its support, prune back the vines with sharp, clean clippers. If your Dioscorea alata grows aerial tubers that you don’t plan to propagate, clip them off before they mature. This potentially invasive plant spreads quickly through aerial tubers and we want to keep it under control. Destroy the aerial tubers before throwing them out so they don’t take root in your compost bin. Propagation It’s rare for Dioscorea to flower in much of the United States, so seed isn’t a common propagation method. Instead, gardeners rely on aerial tubers or root propagation. Start off by cutting the root or aerial tubers from the rest of the plant. Unless you have a very small tuber, cut it into several chunks. Each one is a potential Dioscorea alata. After they’re cut, you have to let the pieces dry out for a couple days. Otherwise, the new wounds could quickly rot when planted. To speed up the process, dip the cut end in wood ash. Once dry, bury the pieces in a bucket of dirt and keep it moist. Once they sprout, you can move the baby yams to their permanent home. Harvesting and Storing Get your dessert recipes ready, because it’s harvest time! Each plant is one-and-done, so the process shouldn’t take too long. Harvesting When the tubers are mature, the foliage will yellow and die. This is your cue to grab the shovel and start harvesting. This usually happens from November to January. If the frost is going to hit your area earlier than that, you’ll want to harvest early. Carefully pull up the entire plant, using a shovel if necessary. Remove the tubers from the vine and brush off the dirt. It’s that simple! Ensure that you remove all tubers, aerial tubers, and vines from the ground so nothing is left to its own devices. Otherwise, you may end up with a particularly invasive plant on your hands. If you live in USDA zones 9-11, you have the option of letting your Dioscorea alata grow for 2 or more years. Just leave it in the ground over winter. It will likely shed its leaves and go dormant for at least a few months. The following harvest season, you should have a massive payoff. Storing You can keep your freshly-harvested Dioscorea on the kitchen counter or pantry. It just needs to stay dry or it may sprout. Remember that the tubers are toxic when raw, so you have to cook them completely. It’s also advisable to wear gloves while preparing them. Cook the Dioscorea alata winged yam as you would a potato. Or, if you have a sweet tooth, head over to Pinterest for some Dioscorea dessert recipes like ube cupcakes. If you have a huge tuber, you can remove a piece at a time, and the remaining winged yam will usually be fine. For long-term storage, keep your yams in a dry place. Periodically check for and remove any rotted pieces. Troubleshooting You’re in luck, as there aren’t many problems to deal with when it comes to Dioscorea alata. We’ll go over a few things though, just in case. Growing Problems Greening of tubers happens when they’re exposed to sunlight while growing. It’s a result of the tubers producing chlorophyll, the same chemical responsible for photosynthesis in leaves. Depending on the amount, chlorophyll can be dangerous when eaten by humans. Stay on the safe side and discard any green portions. Prevent this from happening by keeping the tubers covered at all times while they’re growing. If at any time the tubers poke out of the soil, quickly make a mound over it. Pests Root-knot nematodes hit this species right where it hurts: the tuber. They’ll disrupt their growth and cause knots and deformities. Above-ground, you’ll notice stunted growth and yellowing leaves. Prevent these nematodes by tilling the soil well before and after each harvest. You should also use crop rotation with nematode-resistant plants. For existing infestations, try a nematicide. Geraniol and quillaja saponaria based treatments are a good organic option. Alternately, add beneficial nematodes to the soil as they will hunt down and kill the root-knot nematodes. Scale insects, particularly white scales and mealybugs, are common pests that feed on Dioscorea alata juice. They secrete honeydew that attracts ants, which is another pest to eliminate. The best approach is to prevent these insects in the first place. Keeping the soil clear of debris and the plant dry are the best measures. You can also prune infested vines or remove the pests one by one with a dab of rubbing alcohol. For large infestations, try using an insecticidal soap, or beneficial predators such as lacewings or ladybugs. Neem oil or horticultural oil can kill off their eggs. Diseases Anthracnose is a fungal disease that will cause leaf spots on your beautiful Dioscorea alata species. In time, it can yellow and wither the leaves, eventually killing them. This disease usually isn’t fatal to the whole plant, but can definitely affect its growth. Try a dose of neem oil, copper fungicide, or sulfur dust fungicide to treat this fungus. Prevent anthracnose by keeping your plant clean and dry. The mosaic virus creates a “mosaic” of color on the leaves, usually in shades of yellow and green. It sounds pretty, but the coloring is caused by damage to the veins, which are vital to the plant’s health. This disease will stunt Dioscorea alata’s growth and even affect the starch content of the tuber. This virus is typically transmitted by Dioscorea alata cuttings, so ensure that you’re only planting disease-free yams. Insects can also transmit the disease, so arm yourself against any pest problems. There’s no cure for this disease, so prevention is your only weapon.
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The loquat tree (Eriobotrya japonica) is an evergreen tropical tree that produces sweet, delicious fruit. In the right conditions, it's an excellent tree to grow. Grown either as a loquat tree or a shrub, this fruiting plant is an interesting one. A relative of the rose, it makes small fruits that taste like a blend of peaches, citrus, and mango. It has a honey note. But most people have never tasted it and know virtually nothing about this unusual fruit or the lushly-tropical tree it grows on! I will fix that because loquats are delicious, nutritious, and fun to grow if you’re in the right climate to do it. These evergreen trees are a beautiful ornamental species, and with fresh fruit, it’s worth growing!With an average top height of 30 feet, it can become a sizeable evergreen tree. However, it’s more commonly kept in the 10 to 15-foot range by commercial growers for ease of maintenance and harvesting. At the 10-foot height, it is treated more like a dense, tree-like shrub. While as many as 800 cultivars are available, they are all the same base species. Loquats are also called the Japanese plum tree, Chinese plum, or Japanese medlar. In China the tree and its fruit are called Pipa.The loquat tree (Eriobotrya japonica) is native to southeastern China and possibly parts of southern Japan. It thrives in subtropical to mild temperate regions and has been cultivated in its native areas for thousands of years. The tree is particularly well-suited to regions with warm, sunny climates and moderate rainfall. Over time, it has spread to other parts of Asia, the Mediterranean, and subtropical regions worldwide. The loquat is now widely naturalized in many areas.The loquat tree (Eriobotrya japonica) is native to southeastern China and possibly parts of southern Japan. It thrives in subtropical to mild temperate regions and has been cultivated in its native areas for thousands of years. The tree is particularly well-suited to regions with warm, sunny climates and moderate rainfall. Over time, it has spread to other parts of Asia, the Mediterranean, and subtropical regions worldwide. The loquat is now widely naturalized in many areas.The loquat tree (Eriobotrya japonica) is native to southeastern China and possibly parts of southern Japan. It thrives in subtropical to mild temperate regions and has been cultivated in its native areas for thousands of years. The tree is particularly well-suited to regions with warm, sunny climates and moderate rainfall. Over time, it has spread to other parts of Asia, the Mediterranean, and subtropical regions worldwide. The loquat is now widely naturalized in many areas.The tree has a rounded or spreading crown and dense foliage. The leaves are large, leathery, and dark green with a glossy upper surface and a slightly hairy underside. Loquat trees produce fragrant, white to cream-colored flowers in late autumn or early winter, which develop into clusters of golden-yellow to orange fruit. The fruits are small, oval, or pear-shaped, with a sweet and tangy flavor. They contain one to four glossy brown seeds. In traditional Japanese and Chinese medicine, the fruit and the leaves of the loquat plum fruit tree are used for multiple different purposes. The Chinese use the fresh fruit to make a syrup to ease coughs. The leaves are used in Japan to make biwa cha, a beverage which is believed to help with skin conditions and help with bronchitis or other respiratory illnesses. Both the leaves and the seeds have small amounts of cyanogenic glycosides that release cyanide when digested. However, small amounts of these compounds rarely have any effect. It’s still good to avoid eating the seeds or the leaves, and to keep them away from children and pets.
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As experienced fruit growers, we know all too well the importance of planning when it comes to avoiding depressing mistakes with your fruit trees. But even the most experienced growers can make mistakes, and we’ve made plenty! We’ve learned much of what we know the hard way. It’s equipped us very well to help home fruit growers (like you) avoid the same depressing mistakes. There’s no point everyone going through the same pain, so we’re very happy to share our mistakes here on the blog. It might help you skate through the rookie stage as painlessly as possible. Some of the worst mistakes we’ve made along the way happened before we had a robust picking calendar. Making the mistake of letting fruit fall to the ground One early occasion was particularly memorable. It was a beautiful summer day near the start of the picking season. We’d been busy with the cherry harvest, and were excited for the apricots to get started. We had a great crop that year, after a disastrous season the year before. One of the first apricots to ripen in our orchard is the delicious Poppicot variety. To be fair, we’d checked a couple of trees at the top of the row, and decided that they were at least a week from being ripe. What we didn’t do was walk to the bottom of the row to check the fruit there. If we had, we would have noticed a few ripe fruit already lying on the ground. A week later we went to pick, and our hearts sank as we saw a sea of ripe fruit lying on the ground, wasted and ruined. A fruit tree plan—what’s that? We realized that we had made two rookie mistakes. The first was that we didn’t have a Fruit Tree Action Plan or an accurate picking diary to remind us of when it was time to harvest. And the second was that we didn’t realise the impact that microclimate can have on fruit ripening (that is, trees can ripen unevenly, even when they are close together). Bottom line? Our lack of planning led to the waste of all the hard work, pruning, thinning, watering, and feeding that we’d done up to that point! Lesson learned: write an Action Plan including a picking calendar, folks! It’s an easy way to make sure you don’t miss out on the fruits of your labour. Learning the hard way why netting your fruit trees is always worth it When we first moved home to the orchard and started growing fruit, we didn’t have any nets at all to protect the fruit trees. We regularly lost fruit to birds and dreamed of being able to protect our precious crops. Then we got a great deal on a job lot of ex-winery netting. We snapped it up and imagined that our bird woes were over. Ah, such innocent, naive thoughts. The thing about bird netting is that it works really well – as long as you put it on early enough! (You also need to regularly care for your nets.)
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Commercially grown bananas are green, hulking, 8-inch-plus behemoths with nary a spot on their smooth, firm skin. Homegrown bananas—at least in my home—are half that size, and so cute and plushy that you want to poke a finger into their freckled skin like the Pillsbury Doughboy. While some sources say that bananas lose texture and… Commercially grown bananas are green, hulking, 8-inch-plus behemoths with nary a spot on their smooth, firm skin. Homegrown bananas—at least in my home—are half that size, and so cute and plushy that you want to poke a finger into their freckled skin like the Pillsbury Doughboy. While some sources say that bananas lose texture and flavor as they’re left to ripen on trees, I don’t always agree. After eating many a store-bought banana that has ripened off the plant, that first tree-ripened (or more accurately, stalk-ripened) banana from my backyard tastes like a creamy marshmallow. (Though bananas do occasionally split open when they’re too ripe, so I try not to let them get to that point.) In fact, my favorite campfire dessert is a banana, split in half and stuffed with mini marshmallows, chocolate chips, and peanut butter, then wrapped in foil and roasted over a fire. Talk about creamy. But I digress. It didn’t seem so long ago that I was looking at a bloom of beautiful banana flowers. Banana berries (remember that nifty tidbit?) soon appeared, and seemingly overnight an entire bunch had ripened and I couldn’t eat all the bananas fast enough.Long before settlers in the Americas ever tasted a banana in the 16th century, the fruit was cultivated throughout Southeast Asia, the Middle East, and Africa. But the banana of the time was far from the perfect Chiquita banana we see today. The early banana was small and modest, about the size of a man’s finger. It is believed that Arab slave traders, who also traded ivory and bananas, coined the crop banan, the Arabic word for finger. So, it makes sense that an individual banana is referred to as a “finger” on a “hand” of bananas. But long, long before those farmers and traders ever hawked bananas, the Greek philosopher and botanist Theophrastus (a student of Aristotle) recounted a folk legend of three wise men who sat under the shade of a banana tree and ate its fruit. This myth led to the now-obsolete botanical name of the banana, Musa sapientium, which translates into “banana of the sages.” This wisdom carried over into other cultures, too. According to Hindu legend, the banana was the forbidden fruit from the Tree of Knowledge of Good and Evil in the Garden of Eden. After the Fall of Man, Adam and Eve covered their naked bodies with banana leaves rather than skimpy fig leaves (as we know them). To this day, a banana is often referred to as a fig (or figue) in the West Indies. Carl Linnaeus, the father of Linnaean taxonomy, classed one form of the banana as Musa paradisiaca, an archaic scientific name that translates into “banana of paradise.” Early European names deriving from the Middle Ages include apple of paradise, fig of Eve, and fig of Adam, as well as the French fig du paradis (fig of paradise). But as they say… a banana by any other name would taste as sweet.
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