Gardening

How to Grow Cucumbers Vertically to Maximize Your Harvest

Growing cucumbers vertically is a fantastic space-saving option.Growing cucumbers is a rite of passage in a summer vegetable garden. With their refreshing crunch and abundant nutrients, what’s not to love? Well, as it turns out, growing cucumbers can be a hassle without proper planning. This is particularly due to the unruly vines that dominate precious garden space. Luckily, you can direct the growth in a better direction: up. Is it Better to Grow Cucumbers Vertically? Growing cucumbers vertically comes with many benefits. Vertical gardening is popular right now but has actually been around since 3000 BCE. Besides saving space, there are many benefits that have kept it around for so long: Better air circulation, which keeps the plant dry and free of rot and fungal diseases. Cucumber leaves can spread out and enjoy more sun exposure. No more killing your back! Vertical gardening means you won’t have to bend over to harvest the cukes. Cucumbers will grow straight when they’re hanging from the vine instead of sitting on the ground. Vertical gardening requires less ground space, which means less weeding! That doesn’t mean it’s impossible to grow cucumbers on the ground. But growing vertically does greatly increase your chances of a better harvest.

Broccoli Leaves Are Edible

Think it’s weird to eat broccoli leaves? It’s not—the broad outer leaves of the broccoli plant are edible and delicious, and grow so well in the garden that they beg to be used more in the kitchen! (And less in the compost pile.)And I’m talking the broad outer leaves that surround a head of broccoli, not the few tiny and uninspiring leaves stuck to the head of store-bought broccoli. Most people don’t realize that you can eat broccoli leaves, or that they’re just as edible and delicious as the broccoli head itself. And I can’t blame them, considering broccoli always comes in a neat little package at the grocery store or farmers’ market. It’s a surprise to many people that the broccoli we buy and eat is actually a very small portion of the plant itself. So where does the rest of it go?The growth habit of broccoli plants. Unless you grow them yourself, you never see the massive greens that broccoli heads spring from.On my Romanesco broccoli plant (Brassica oleracea ‘Romanesco’), which grows larger than your everyday broccoli, the mature leaves span up to 2 feet long with hefty ribs and stems. Even though the plant is typically grown for its flower bud (what you commonly know as a head of broccoli, or a floret or crown), the flower is a relatively small part of the crop, and it seems like you wait alllll spring (or fall) for the prize. (A prize that sometimes never arrives, as anyone who has waited fruitlessly for a bud can attest to! But that’s a different post on the ails of growing broccoli at home.) A broccoli plant only produces one significant head per life cycle, with occasional secondary sprouts that form in the axils of the leaves. These side shoots always turn out smaller than the center head (think bite-sized), which is where baby broccoli comes from. This specialty vegetable that you sometimes see at farmers’ markets or gourmet grocers is simply a bonus harvest — not broccoli picked early. Knowing all that, it seems wasteful to use such a modest portion of the plant when the rest of it is so good.Health benefits of broccoli and broccoli leaves Broccoli is considered one of the most nutritious vegetables on the market, providing 100 percent of the daily value of vitamin C in a single cup of chopped broccoli. It contains a full nutritional lineup of B vitamins, potassium, iron, calcium, minerals, and fiber. When compared to the stems, the florets have a higher concentration of protective phytochemicals like beta carotene and sulforaphane (the latter of which has been shown to protect against certain cancers). But broccoli leaves are their own superfood, with even higher amounts of beta carotene than the florets, along with vitamin A (which is important for vision and skin health) and phytonutrients that aren’t found in the florets or stems. That means if you’re a gardener who’s used to composting broccoli leaves or ignoring them while you wait for the heads to form, you are missing out on the many free health benefits of this amazing crop.How to harvest broccoli leaves If you grow your own broccoli, you can start to harvest a few of the outer (older) leaves every week once they reach 4 to 6 inches long. After the plant forms a crown, you can harvest the broccoli head but continue to pick the leaves until you can no longer keep up… seriously! Broccoli is an incredible cut-and-come-again crop, and new leaves remain tender even when the rest of the plant is getting tall and unwieldy. When I lived in Southern California, I could keep my broccoli growing year-round in the mild coastal climate (zone 10b). These second-year plants were still thriving despite having all the crowns harvested moons ago, and on some of the plants, I’d stripped them clean of leaves to cook with!

There’s a Fibonacci Fractal in This Remarkable Romanesco Broccoli

Romanesco broccoli—despite its name—is neither a broccoli nor a cauliflower, even though it belongs to the same family of brassicas. But one thing is for sure: This plant is not only one of the most stunning vegetables you can grow in your garden, it’s a mathematical marvel based on the Fibonacci sequence.Few things in the garden are more mesmerizing than the Italian heirloom plant known as Romanesco broccoli. The chartreuse bud looks like it was sculpted by a fine artist with its distinctive spiraled pinnacles. It’s an edible flower (just like heads of broccoli or heads of artichoke) that we eat as a vegetable. Romanesco belongs to the genus Brassica, which is unusual in that instead of individual species, it bundles all of its members (such as broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, kale, mustard greens, kohlrabi, and turnips) into one species, making them all Brassica oleracea. (If you remember high school science, plant taxonomy goes like this: kingdom, order, family, genus, species, and sometimes, subspecies.) That means Romanesco broccoli (which is sometimes called Romanesco cauliflower) is neither a broccoli nor a cauliflower, though it’s often grouped botanically with cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis). It is its own cultivar and by the looks of it, this head-turning vegetable is truly in a class of its own (in more ways than one!).

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Galangal

Galangal seems exotic to most in the United States, but it's a staple spice abroad. Used extensively in Asian cuisine, this root vegetable is fun to grow. Learn how to grow this culinary staple with Melissa Kruse-Peeples at home!During the Middle Ages, the spicy and pungent root known as galangal was a hot commodity. It was widely traded from its native Indonesia and China throughout Europe. Its popularity in the Western world diminished, and until recently, you would have been hard-pressed to find someone who would even know what galangal was. Awareness of galangal is increasing thanks to its popularity in a diversity of Asian cuisines, particularly Thai food. While popularity has increased, sourcing fresh galangal roots can be a challenge. Why not grow your own? Galangal is in the ginger family and grown from the root or rhizomes. Growing galangal is easy. It is a relatively low maintenance perennial. Originally from Indonesia and Southwest China, it is attractive with a tropical look for your garden. Galangal has two forms: greater (Alpinia galanga) and lesser (A. officinarum). The first is larger, as it can grow up to six feet in height, and is the more common culinary root. The lesser version has a stronger taste and is most commonly used for medicinal purposes. It has a smaller stature, reaching around three feet in height.

Malabar Spinach: Heat-Loving Garden Greens

Malabar spinach isn't a true spinach at all, but tastes like it when cooked. Learn how to grow this prolific staple green with our guide!Malabar spinach is a warm-weather vegetable that originates from Asia and is a common ingredient in many Asian cuisines. Its leaves, shoots, and berries are all edible and have different culinary applications. Malabar is a region on the southwest coast of India where the tropical climate provides the perfect growing condition for this vigorous vine. This vegetable is also known as Indian spinach, Ceylon spinach, or vine spinach. One common issue with growing regular spinach is that spinach tends to bolt and turn bitter as soon as the temperature rises. Last year in my zone 5b garden, I was only able to get a few short weeks of harvest out of my Bloomsdale Long Standing variety between the last frost and the first heatwave of late spring. It was the first leafy green to bolt in my garden, even before my arugula! Although Malabar spinach is not botanically related to common market spinach varieties, it can be a great alternative to produce in your summer garden. When grown in warm conditions such as in Southern California or the southern states in the U.S., Malabar spinach is a perennial. In most other climates it is grown as an annual. It can also become invasive if you let your plants go to seed. However, if your growing region experiences any frost, you can only grow this vegetable as an annual and it makes a great succession planting alternative after cold-hardy leafy greens.

Lettuce Bolting: Can It Be Stopped?

Lettuce bolting causes your plant to turn bitter and unpleasant. We discuss what causes bolting as well as some solutions to slow it down!Lettuce is the crop of choice for both experienced and beginner garden enthusiasts. A quick-growing plant that can be eaten during almost any of its life stages, and available in hundreds of varieties, this vegetable is everywhere! But just like any other plant, lettuce goes through a life cycle. It starts as a seed, developing leaves, putting out a flower stalk to get pollinated, and then producing seed and dying. This natural process can mystify some, until now. While bolting lettuce is inevitable, controlling bolting lettuce is something that you can do to extend your harvest. Lettuce loves growing in the garden during the cool season, be it spring in the US’s Midwest, or winter in coastal California. This vegetable will quickly start bolting in heat or any temperatures above 80 degrees. By mimicking a cool season with just a few tricks when it’s actually the mild heat of summer, it’s possible for lettuce plants to prolong their production phase and delay bolting. Tricking lettuce into believing it’s still in a cool season may seem difficult at first. However, by keeping direct sun off the leaves or planting under the cover of trees or shade of a building, these leafy vegetables can be tricked into believing that it’s not quite time to bolt. Later in the summer, depending on your region, these greens may just be impossible to grow. As one of the early vegetable crops that prefers temperatures below 75 degrees, you may want to wait until temperatures are ideal again. When it’s 80 degrees or more during the heat of the day, these vegetables just won’t thrive anymore. It would be best to wait until the fall before adding lettuce to your garden again.

Growing Swiss Chard: Leafy Greens And Tender Stems

Want a riot of fall or winter color? Growing Swiss chard can provide vibrant, colorful stems. Better yet, it's tasty. Our guide explains how! Growing swiss chard is a delicious and healthy way to cultivate a member of the Amaranthaceae family. It is known as s nutritional powerhouse and is loaded with nutrients and vitamins, especially A, C, K, and the vitamin B group. Even better, this leafy vegetable has an extremely low-calorie count. One cup of chopped Swiss chard contains only 35 calories. Growing Swiss chard can be a great thing for your health! The word “chard” descends from the French word cadre, meaning artichoke thistle. Unfortunately, the origin of the word “Swiss” is less clear, especially as the vegetable is not native to Switzerland. Regardless, it is used extensively in traditional Swiss cuisine. It was first described by a Swiss botanist, which may have something to do with the term “Swiss” in its name. Swiss chard is a leafy green vegetable closely related to beets. However, while beets are grown for the roots, chard is generally cultivated for its leaves, which incidentally taste much like beet greens. With swiss chard, how to grow it successfully is relatively easy, and the health benefits of this tasty vegetable are well worth the effort.

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Mustard Greens

Growing mustard greens in your garden allows you to put a pop of zingy flavor into your salad mixes. A cool-season crop of peppery leaves also adds interest to the garden. Rebecca Hendricks has a step-by-step guide for you.Mustard is an excellent cool-season crop with interesting leaves ranging from purple to bright green. Mustard can taste mild, or it can be spicy and peppery. It is a favorite in southern gardens. Growing mustard greens is simple, and they are high in antioxidants, a good source of fiber, and high in vitamins A and C. Mustard greens are popular in a variety of dishes, from microgreens to curries and stir-fries. They have been consumed for more than 5,000 years. They were originally grown in Asia and the Mediterranean, and today, countries like India, Nepal, China, and Japan are the leading growers of this delicious green. In addition to being prized for its leaves, mustard can be grown for its seeds, which are used to make the condiment mustard. Mustard greens include a variety of species such as black mustard, white mustard, brown mustard, and more! Other members of the mustard family include tatsoi, mizuna, and bok choy. Mustards are also related to other Brassicas such as broccoli, kale, cabbage, and cauliflower. Growing mustard is easy and can provide nutritious leafy greens and seeds. Let’s talk more about it. What are Mustard Greens? Mustard is an easy to grow annual cool weather leafy green that is grown for its spicy leaves, seeds, and edible tuber root. There are several common varieties of mustard, including black mustard (Brassica nigra), white mustard (Sinapis alba), and brown mustard (Brassica juncea). Brassica nigra, or black mustard, is considered invasive in some places. It produces allopathic chemicals that prevent other plants from growing where it is growing. Garlic mustard, or Alliaria petiolata, and brown mustard, Brassica juncea, are also considered invasive in some locations. The best way to stop their spread is to cut off any flowers that form to prevent them from going to seed. You can also cut it down at soil level and remove all organic matter.

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Delicata Squash

Popular as it is, it can be hard to find. Growing delicata squash at home allows you to avoid searching for it in late summer and fall. Join Elizabeth Cramer as she explains all you need to know to grow this squash successfully.With a bevy of delicious squashes to choose from, one that stands out is the wonderful delicata squash. A cream-colored fruit with beautiful green stripes and orange flesh, the delicata squash, or Cucurbita pepo, is a rare winter squash that has edible skin when roasted! Able to store for several months as well; gardeners growing delicata squash certainly hit the jackpot with this wonderful vegetable! Like all squash, delicata originates in North and Central America. Squash was one of the original ‘Three Sisters’, or staple crops, of Native American tribes. along with beans and corn, for thousands of years. It’s kind of like the baby brother of butternut squashes and other winter squash varieties. This fast-growing vine will snake its way around your yard and push out impressive leaves and blooms. Gardeners love this vegetable not only for its produce, but also its seeds and flowers, which are also edible!

Growing Shiitake Mushrooms At Home: The Guide

While growing shiitake mushrooms takes a while to get started, the rewards are worth it. Our in-depth guide reveals how to get started!It’s wonderful to walk through a wooded forest after it’s rained and find a mushroom popping out of a log or in between downed trees! Most of these mushrooms however are not edible. But it is possible to start growing shiitake mushrooms in your own backyard or greenhouse – especially if you have a shiitake mushroom kit – and pick them as they spring out of the wood and beckon to be devoured. Mushroom growing is a little different from raising herbs or other veggies in your garden. But it is a fun process and a good way to get new gardeners involved with growing their own food. Once you understand a little about the steps involved, you’ll see it’s actually quite straightforward to grow shiitake mushrooms! Years ago, people could only grow shiitake mushrooms in forests in East Asia. However, we’ve come a long way and can now grow them around the world. They’ve become so popular that it’s estimated about 25% of yearly mushroom production is shiitake mushroom. With a taste similar to wild mushrooms and packed full of that deep umami flavor, this little mushroom is worth the wait. A little bit larger than button mushrooms and filled with vitamins, it is said that it can boost your immune system. Shiitake mushrooms are fundamentally different in their growth habits than anything else in your garden. They are fungal spores that are dormant until they find the right conditions to grow in. In order to help these little guys spring into life, you’ll need to create a home for the mushroom spores to grow and reproduce in. This planting medium is usually a freshly cut log or a sawdust substrate. With the growth of online retailers selling all sorts of plug spawn that has been inoculated, shiitake growing at home has never been easier!

Growing Daikon Radish: Massive And Mild-Flavored

Daikon cost a lot, but by growing daikon radish at home you can save yourself some money and improve your soil. Our guide shares how!Want a vegetable that is good for you and your garden? Growing daikon radish is the answer. Known for its long, icicle-like appearance and large flourishing leaves, a crop of daikon not only provides you and yours with healthy nutrients in a mild flavor profile but also breaks up compacted ground in your garden. Daikon radishes, or Raphanus sativus var. longipinnatus, were first cultivated in East Asia — specifically Northern China. There are varieties native to Japan, India, Malaysia, and even Singapore. Today, Chinese radishes are used across cultures and continents as a comestible, and also as a cover crop to improve garden health. The taproot can dive deep into compacted soil and break it up for future crops. Generally, daikon radishes are 1-2 pounds each. The biggest recorded daikon to date was grown in Kagoshima City, Japan, and weighed about 73 pounds! It was also over two feet wide! This particular variety, called Sakurajima, grows copiously in the volcanic region. What is thought of as a typical variety of daikon doesn’t have the same shape, however, as the Sakurajima. Most varieties are cylindrical and have white skin, although there are many varieties with completely different characteristics. Leaves grow from the top of the root and can be eaten as well. It is consumed fresh, pickled, or cooked into soups and other dishes. Daikon radishes are not hard to produce. Grow daikon in almost any region at the right time. After they have been planted and have a chance to loosen your garden bed, find you can put many other nightshades in their place.

Growing Mizuna: Peppery Asian Salad Greens

Growing mizuna to add to salads, soups, or stir-fries is incredibly easy. Our complete growing guide provides you with our top tips! Stir-fries in spring and salads in the middle of summer both have one thing in common – the peppery and wonderful vegetable that is mizuna! An addition to the garden that produces early in the season and can tolerate the type of weather fluctuations that gardener nightmares are made of, these wonderful little plants will give you harvest after harvest of delicious greens for months. Growing mizuna greens should be on the garden plan of any family who loves to cook. Native to the Kansai region of Japan, these seeds have now traveled the globe and are grown in zones USDA 3-10. They were also grown in outer space as part of a vegetable growing experiment on the International Space Station! These distinctive plants spring up from the soil almost overnight and make great salad, stir-fries, and shabu-shabu among other dishes. Traditionally, many chefs have pickled the mizuna’s tender green leaves to make a variety of side dishes. Some plant mizuna varieties that are purple because of the presence of anthocyanin, the same compound that turns blueberries blue! Similar to the taste of arugula, you can tell them apart by the distinct mustard aftertaste of the mizuna. This plant does especially well when grown in rotation with legumes. A heavy nitrogen feeder, it will happily soak up the nitrogen that legumes ‘fix’ in the soil. All About Mizuna Japanese mizuna greens have long been a staple of Asian cooking, as the plant originated in Japan. Like other greens mizuna go by a long list of names like Japanese mustard, potherb mustard, California peppergrass, shui kai, and spider mustard. A peppery and spicy vegetable, this versatile addition to the garden can be grown year-round in some regions and is valued for its wonderful nutritional content. A member of the brassica family, it’s actually in the same family as cabbage. Unlike other brassicas, mizuna can tolerate heat and cold weather to a better extent. Mizuna greens are foot-tall clumps of green serrated leaves with thin stems. While some cultivars also produce purple leaves like ‘Mizuna Crimson Tide’, this plant is added to gardens almost exclusively for its leaves. A quick grower, small grey seeds quickly sprout into sturdy leaves in small circular clumps. Near the end of the plant’s life, it will bolt and go to seed-producing small yellow flowers on long green spikes above the plant. Planting Mizuna It’s best (and easy!) to grow mizuna from seed. A small round grey seed roughly the size of a lentil, it’s easy to sow. Sow seeds to 1/4th to 1/2 inch deep in well-drained rich soil. Plant in rows 18-24 inches apart. After sowing seeds, plants will germinate in 4-7 days if temps are between 45-85 degrees. Once the seedlings reach 1 inch in height, thin to 6 inches apart. You can expect a harvest 3 to 6 weeks after germination. It’s best to plan on planting your seeds two weeks after the last frost, but if grown in areas with no frost, mizuna can be planted in the garden in late summer. Care A hardy choice, mizuna has a few basic growing requirements. Plant mizuna in a sunny area with well-draining and fertilized soil and you’re already off to a great start! Sun and Temperature A great choice for a northern garden that gets the occasional late frost, mizuna is a hardy little green that once established can take a sudden and unexpected frost. As such, it can be one of the earliest crops in the garden. Likewise, for a southern garden, these plants can tolerate hotter weather than most other greens. Able to grow in USDA zones 3-10; mizuna grows best in the full sun of the day but can tolerate partial shade. Requiring 10-12 hours of sunlight, try planting in an area that will receive little if any shade. Additionally, sow several inches apart so that fully grown plants don’t shade out plants that are regenerating themselves. Water and Humidity Moist soil is the key to happy mizuna! Its leaves contain a great deal of water, and if the soil dries out, it can cause your mizuna to go to seed. Mizuna greens need to be watered in the morning, preferably on a drip system. Early in its life, try watering your mizuna twice a week to keep the soil evenly wet. After the leaves grow and shade the soil surrounding itself, decrease to once a week. Water one inch a week, and add a light mulch of straw or fine wood chips around the seedlings. In spring and fall, reduce watering if the soil becomes waterlogged. In Summer, monitor the soil if it dries out quickly in heat or warm winds. Soil It’s best to grow mizuna greens in well-drained rich soil. Ideally, amend the soil with compost or sterilized manure before sowing seed. Mizuna thrives in most soils but needs a pH of between 6.0-7.5. If growing in containers, coco coir is a great choice as it aids in drainage. But again, don’t allow it to dry out as it will start to go to seed. Fertilizing Mizuna greens have very simple fertilization requirements. As these plants are grown for their leaves they need a lot of nitrogen! When you first sow your seeds, work well-rotted manure into the soil. This will provide nitrogen early in the plant’s life. After about one month, apply a liquid seaweed solution or fish emulsion to keep the mizuna growing well. Reapply every month or so or as needed. Pruning Mizuna greens are a very rewarding crop. As it’s easy to grow mizuna, once established, mizuna will tolerate several rounds of cutting. Once the leaves reach between 10-12 inches in length, cut the stems to about 1 inch off the ground. It’s best to use a sharp or serrated knife and cut parallel to the ground. After cutting, water the area and ensure the soil stays moist. In a few short weeks, you’ll be able to harvest again! Propagation Mizuna greens are exclusively grown from seed. A fast-growing harvest, either sow seed or purchase seedlings. Seeds are hardy as well! They have great viability when saved for up to 4 years! Harvesting and Storing Harvesting mizuna is as simple as snipping a delicious green leaf. A great cut and come again option, this Japanese mustard is a bountiful addition to the garden. Harvesting Mizuna, like any green, can be eaten at even the earliest stages of growth. However, it’s best to harvest mizuna between 20 and 40 days after germination. Many gardeners like this Japanese green when it’s still in a relatively young stage as tender greens. Others prefer to let this green get upwards of 10 inches long before harvesting. Cut the greens at the base of the leaf leaving inner growth undisturbed. Storing Once picked, store unwashed mizuna greens in a salad spinner or breathable bag in the fridge. Make sure to avoid storing in a sealed plastic bag as this will cause the green leaves to immediately begin to decay. For long-term storage, try pickling your greens. Japanese chefs and home cooks have long been pickling these sturdy greens and using them as a condiment. Pickling is a common method of preservation in Asian cooking. Many recipes abound for pickled side dishes. A short search will bring up lots of delicious options! Troubleshooting You’re in luck! Mizuna greens are a relatively easy plant to grow. Monitor outdoor temps, keep your soil moist, and use a row cover and you’ll likely have a trouble-free crop in a month or so! Growing Problems Mizuna greens are a very hardy green. Able to withstand warm summer weather better than most other greens, you can harvest mizuna up into the 80’s. Keep in mind however that it can bolt. Bolting happens when your mizuna tries to reproduce and grows seeds for another generation of plants. To avoid bolting, ensure that the soil around the base is continuously moist as dryness will trigger the plant to reproduce. Alternatively, if you’re expecting weather over 85 degrees, you can expect to see the end of harvest. Pests Flea beetles are the primary pest you’ll come across when caring for mizuna. These beetles lay their eggs on the soil surface not too far from the stalks. The larvae hatch and eat holes in the stems and leaves. To prevent flea beetles, cover your crop with a row cover, this prevents the beetles from physically laying their eggs anywhere near your plants. Aphids are small light green bugs about 1/8th of an inch long. They usually appear in groups and suck the sap of the plant. They multiply rapidly and can kill a plant by eating too much and introducing disease into the weakened plant. Use insecticidal soap & pyrethrum to control. Diseases Mizuna greens are not very susceptible to disease. The one exception is damping off, a disease most likely to happen when you sow seeds in trays indoors. Damping-off presents as a fuzzy mold on top of the soil and stems that appear shrunken or eaten. There is no cure, but it can be prevented by increasing ventilation or spreading sulfur powder over the affected areas to stop the spread to surrounding seedlings.

How to Pollinate Squash by Hand (and Why Your Plants Have Lots of Flowers but No Fruits)

What does it mean to be self-pollinating? As a gardener, I’ve always been fascinated by how all the different plants in my yard flower and then fruit. We commonly associate the term “fruit” with the fleshy, seedy, sweet, or sour parts of plants like bananas (which are, in fact, herbs and berries in the world of botany), apples, lemons, and mandarins. But scientifically speaking, a fruit is the structure on a plant that disseminates seeds, including squash, cucumbers, beans, peas, peppers, eggplants, and tomatoes. These vegetables are known as self-pollinating plants; that is, they reproduce via the transfer of pollen from the anther (male part) to the stigma (female part) of the same flower, or another flower on the same plant. Self-pollinating plants do not have to receive pollen from other plants in order to produce fruit and set seed. (This is why they’re sometimes referred to as self-fruitful or self-fertile.) Some plants, like tomatoes, grow with both male and female parts on each flower (known as “perfect,” or complete flowers). Tomatoes can be pollinated simply by growing outside in the breeze, or—for greenhouse-grown plants—sitting near a fan or having the vines lightly rattled to help some of the pollen drop from the anther to the stigma. Related: My favorite tips for growing the best tomato crop Subscribe to Garden Betty Sign up below to get my free weekly emails and I’ll teach you how to keep your plants alive, maximize your garden bounty, and preserve the harvest. I agree to my personal data being used for interest-based advertising as outlined in the Privacy Notice. Website Your Email... Yes Sign Me Up! Other plants, like corn, have separate male and female parts on the same plant that have to be pollinated by wind. Each corn stalk has (male) tassels and (female) silks, which are fertilized when the wind shakes some of the pollen off the tassels and onto the silks. When this happens, babies happen—in the form of every fertilized silk turning into a corn kernel. Missing kernels on an ear of corn means the silks weren’t fully pollinated, or there wasn’t enough pollen to go around (since a stalk may have three or more ears waiting to be pollinated). Another type of self-pollinating plant is summer squash and winter squash (and all other members of the Cucurbitaceae family), which have separate male and female flowers on each plant.

Organic Vegetable Gardening: So Rewarding

When it comes to growing your own food, you want to consume the healthiest produce and ensure that you are continuing the safest practices possible. This is why organic gardening and the techniques associated with it are so important in our day and age. While much of the world has given themselves over to GMO (genetically modified organism) plants with unknown chemical compositions, organically focused growers are continuing onward with traditional methods that are thousands of years old. Not only is this the most feasible option, it is also the most nutritious and most logical way to grow our food. When growing organic food, you know exactly what you are going to be putting into your mouth, rather than the modern practice of ignoring unknown chemicals and mutations in your food. This means that you are going to avoid unknown complications from chemically induced mutations and will logically ensure that you are only eating food that you know is healthy for you. This practice has been proven to improve your health and comes with no unknown health risks, unlike the alternative. Organic gardening challenges and rewards Growing using more traditional methods does come with some challenges that seem unique in our current world. While GMO plants grow under almost any conditions, cultivating natural varieties takes more time and added attention to their proper growing conditions. This can manifest in the form of extended growing times, shade requirements, soil drainage needs, and even fertilizer needs. However, these challenges have been around for centuries and there are easy solutions available for each and every one of them. Growing in this manner does have a number of benefits outside of health as well. There are exciting opportunities to create familial heirloom varieties that can be passed on to newer generations or cross bred with other gardener’s crops. This is possible because heirloom seeds and plants grown using natural methods maintain their ability to produce viable seeds, something that mainstream crops have lost. This lack of terminal seeds makes breeding and continuing on centuries old traditions easy and cost efficient. Organic gardening preparation When choosing to create an organic garden you will need to ensure that you have the correct tools, soil, and maintenance plan in place. The best way to accomplish this is by researching the crop that you want to buy, purchasing seeds from a reputable breeder, and then following their instructions for the crop. Any good breeder will give you information about the soil, shade, water, and growth needs of the seeds that they sell. Heal the worldThe next step is to ensure that your soil is the right condition for the seeds and that it will be able to sustain life. This is usually accomplished by getting a soil test and then correcting for any deficiencies in the soil. When doing this you should avoid any and all commercial treatments as they contain unknown components and can damage the soil or transfer over to your produce. Instead, organic matter such as manure, moss, clippings, and fungi can be introduced and tilled into the soil to create the correct nutrient profile. Organic garden maintenance Once you have begun growing your crop you will want to ensure that you continue with natural maintenance methods. Avoid chemical additives like Miracle Grow for water, commercial potting soils, and any root additives. It is also important to avoid any pesticides and sprays that contain inorganic compounds. Remember, anything that you put in the ground, on your plants, or into the water can end up in your mouth and in your body as well. Depending on the variety that you have chosen to plant you may have different harvest times. It is important to keep track of approximate dates and to check on your plants every single day. When growing traditional produce you will have a much shorter time to harvest and utilize your crop as they have not been engineered with preservatives. However, this means that they will always taste fresh when they are picked and will have a much fuller flavor profile than anything you buy at the store. Any fruit or vegetable that you grow using organic methods will be healthier and have a better taste than chemically treated foods. The unadulterated flavors contained within your harvested goods will ensure that all of your food has vibrant and exciting flavors. By avoiding the chemical infestation of modern GMO foods you prevent traditional breeding and growth methods from stalling and ensure that a new generation of real food will be created and enjoyed by health conscious individuals.

Dioscorea Alata: Growing Wonderful Winged Yams

All About Ube Before we get started, let’s clear up the yam/sweet potato confusion. Though they look and taste similar, these aren’t the same plants. Sweet potato is actually part of the morning glory family while winged yam is part of the “true yam family”. Dioscorea alata is grown all around the world, so it has many different names. The common name winged yam comes from the stem’s appearance. It’s square-shaped with flat ridges, or “wings”, lining the corners. You may also hear it called “water yam”, which is referring to the tuber’s high water content. These plants are also referred to as “ube” or “ubi” in Phillippine cuisine. Winged yam is such an old plant that its exact origin is unknown, though it’s believed to have come from Southeast Asia. Called a cultigen, this species has only been known in cultivation and may even be a hybrid. It came to North America in the 1500s, when it was introduced to Florida by the Spanish and Portugeuse. Today, ube root crop remains a staple food in Southeast Asia, West Africa, and South America – especially the Philippines. There, it’s used primarily in desserts from cake to ice cream to frappes. Despite its popularity as a dessert-dish, some countries have replaced winged yam with the sweet potato and other crops. In the US, winged yam has gotten a little out of hand. They’re ruthless plants that will take over any space they find. Winged yam has escaped cultivation in the southern United States, the Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. It’s so destructive that the Florida exotic pest plant council has registered it as a fully-fledged invasive species. As gardeners of this plant, we’re responsible for keeping it contained. It’s not exactly high-maintenance, but growing and containing winged yam is no small feat. The vines have been known to reach 20-30 feet tall, often climbing nearby trees. They grow so quickly that some gardeners have reported 8 inches of growth in a single day. The vines aren’t the only thing busy growing. Each plant sports one underground tuber. If left unharvested, the tubers will grow and grow until they’ve reached 8 feet long. Sometimes, the vines will grow smaller, aerial tubers above ground (similar to the air potato). These bulbils are meant to develop into new plants and are excellent for propagation. It may be fast-growing, but these plants aren’t invincible. They only last through the winter in zones 9-11. In colder locations, they must be grown as an annual. Come harvest time, it’s vital that you make sure you cook the tubers completely before eating as they’re toxic when raw! If any ube tastes bitter, do not eat it. Cooking should render this safe, but the bitterness is a warning sign. Winged Yam Varieties In most places, ube is ube. In others though, especially the Philippines, there are many different varieties of this species. Kinampay is considered the original winged yam species. It’s nicknamed “Queen of Philippine Yams” and has 4 further varietes: tamisan, binanag, kabus-ok, and binato. With these yams, different varieties often mean different colors. While most, such as Zambales, stick to the classic purple, others have varying shades of white. The Basco variety, for example, is white with a lavender tinge. The Leyte variety ranges from a lovely cream color to pink. Planting Like potatoes, winged yam is usually grown by planting chunks of the tuber. You can buy the starter pieces online or acquire some from a friend. Small tubers can be planted whole, while large ones can be cut into several pieces. Let the pieces dry out before planting or sprouting them. In the tropics, Dioscorea alata can be planted any time of year, but usually just after the rainy season. Here in the US, that’s equivalent to spring. Don’t plant your yams in the ground until all chances of frost have passed. It takes anywhere from 3-12 weeks for the tubers to sprout. You can get ahead of schedule by sprouting the yam pieces before planting. Just stick them in a bucket of soil and keep them moist. Once they sprout, you can transplant them into their permanent homes. Before planting in the ground, till the soil well. The growing tubers will appreciate the extra room that loose soil gives it. Plant the tubers 4-5 inches deep and 2 feet apart. It’s recommended to add organic mulch on top to hold in water and prevent weeds. Dioscorea alata can be grown in containers, but you’ll have to watch the size. Use at least a 5-gallon container and harvest the yam before it outgrows its home. Care Winged yam species are pretty rough-and-tumble plants. However, you’ll get the best results by following their care preferences. Here’s what we recommend. Sun and Temperature Give your winged yam full to partial sunlight. Since it’s from the tropics, it likes to be nice and warm; at least 70°F is preferable. If you live in zones 9-11, you can grow these plants as perennials. Otherwise, the weather will only allow this yam to grow seasonally. Freezing temperatures can cause damage to the roots and green growth. Water and Humidity Dioscorea is drought-tolerant, but it thrives best with consistent moisture. Water it whenever the top few inches of the soil begins to dry out. Drip lines or soaker hoses work really well for this plant. When the plants start to die at the end of the growing season, stop watering so they won’t rot. Humidity isn’t a huge factor here, so long as you keep the soil moist during the summer. Soil Dioscorea alata species will grow in a variety of soils. For optimal growth, though, the soil should have all the best features. It should be loamy, fertile, full of organic material, and well-draining. It’s also important that the soil is loose so the tubers can grow easily. A neutral or slightly acidic pH will be fine. Fertilizing Dioscorea alata isn’t too picky about fertilizer as long as it has nutrients. Stock the soil with organic matter before planting and use mulch. If you’d like to give the plant and aerial tubers an extra boost, apply a balanced fertilizer a couple of times during the growing season. Pruning and Training As a climber, this vine will much appreciate a trellis to grow on. Plus, having a support will boost your plant’s growth. When it’s climbing, the vines will spread out and expose more leaf surface for photosynthesis. Use a trellis, fence, or even a host tree. If the vines don’t take to the support on their own, gently wind them around it. If necessary, tie them loosely with a scrap of fabric. If your plant outgrows its support, prune back the vines with sharp, clean clippers. If your Dioscorea alata grows aerial tubers that you don’t plan to propagate, clip them off before they mature. This potentially invasive plant spreads quickly through aerial tubers and we want to keep it under control. Destroy the aerial tubers before throwing them out so they don’t take root in your compost bin. Propagation It’s rare for Dioscorea to flower in much of the United States, so seed isn’t a common propagation method. Instead, gardeners rely on aerial tubers or root propagation. Start off by cutting the root or aerial tubers from the rest of the plant. Unless you have a very small tuber, cut it into several chunks. Each one is a potential Dioscorea alata. After they’re cut, you have to let the pieces dry out for a couple days. Otherwise, the new wounds could quickly rot when planted. To speed up the process, dip the cut end in wood ash. Once dry, bury the pieces in a bucket of dirt and keep it moist. Once they sprout, you can move the baby yams to their permanent home. Harvesting and Storing Get your dessert recipes ready, because it’s harvest time! Each plant is one-and-done, so the process shouldn’t take too long. Harvesting When the tubers are mature, the foliage will yellow and die. This is your cue to grab the shovel and start harvesting. This usually happens from November to January. If the frost is going to hit your area earlier than that, you’ll want to harvest early. Carefully pull up the entire plant, using a shovel if necessary. Remove the tubers from the vine and brush off the dirt. It’s that simple! Ensure that you remove all tubers, aerial tubers, and vines from the ground so nothing is left to its own devices. Otherwise, you may end up with a particularly invasive plant on your hands. If you live in USDA zones 9-11, you have the option of letting your Dioscorea alata grow for 2 or more years. Just leave it in the ground over winter. It will likely shed its leaves and go dormant for at least a few months. The following harvest season, you should have a massive payoff. Storing You can keep your freshly-harvested Dioscorea on the kitchen counter or pantry. It just needs to stay dry or it may sprout. Remember that the tubers are toxic when raw, so you have to cook them completely. It’s also advisable to wear gloves while preparing them. Cook the Dioscorea alata winged yam as you would a potato. Or, if you have a sweet tooth, head over to Pinterest for some Dioscorea dessert recipes like ube cupcakes. If you have a huge tuber, you can remove a piece at a time, and the remaining winged yam will usually be fine. For long-term storage, keep your yams in a dry place. Periodically check for and remove any rotted pieces. Troubleshooting You’re in luck, as there aren’t many problems to deal with when it comes to Dioscorea alata. We’ll go over a few things though, just in case. Growing Problems Greening of tubers happens when they’re exposed to sunlight while growing. It’s a result of the tubers producing chlorophyll, the same chemical responsible for photosynthesis in leaves. Depending on the amount, chlorophyll can be dangerous when eaten by humans. Stay on the safe side and discard any green portions. Prevent this from happening by keeping the tubers covered at all times while they’re growing. If at any time the tubers poke out of the soil, quickly make a mound over it. Pests Root-knot nematodes hit this species right where it hurts: the tuber. They’ll disrupt their growth and cause knots and deformities. Above-ground, you’ll notice stunted growth and yellowing leaves. Prevent these nematodes by tilling the soil well before and after each harvest. You should also use crop rotation with nematode-resistant plants. For existing infestations, try a nematicide. Geraniol and quillaja saponaria based treatments are a good organic option. Alternately, add beneficial nematodes to the soil as they will hunt down and kill the root-knot nematodes. Scale insects, particularly white scales and mealybugs, are common pests that feed on Dioscorea alata juice. They secrete honeydew that attracts ants, which is another pest to eliminate. The best approach is to prevent these insects in the first place. Keeping the soil clear of debris and the plant dry are the best measures. You can also prune infested vines or remove the pests one by one with a dab of rubbing alcohol. For large infestations, try using an insecticidal soap, or beneficial predators such as lacewings or ladybugs. Neem oil or horticultural oil can kill off their eggs. Diseases Anthracnose is a fungal disease that will cause leaf spots on your beautiful Dioscorea alata species. In time, it can yellow and wither the leaves, eventually killing them. This disease usually isn’t fatal to the whole plant, but can definitely affect its growth. Try a dose of neem oil, copper fungicide, or sulfur dust fungicide to treat this fungus. Prevent anthracnose by keeping your plant clean and dry. The mosaic virus creates a “mosaic” of color on the leaves, usually in shades of yellow and green. It sounds pretty, but the coloring is caused by damage to the veins, which are vital to the plant’s health. This disease will stunt Dioscorea alata’s growth and even affect the starch content of the tuber. This virus is typically transmitted by Dioscorea alata cuttings, so ensure that you’re only planting disease-free yams. Insects can also transmit the disease, so arm yourself against any pest problems. There’s no cure for this disease, so prevention is your only weapon.

3 Easy Vegetables to Grow as a Beginner

No green thumb? No problem! Growing vegetables doesn’t need to be hard. Some veggies are easier to grow than others, making them perfect for inexperienced gardeners. Here are 3 easy vegetables to grow. 1. Lettuce Most households eat lettuce a few times a week, if not everyday. Imagine salad fresh from the garden! Luckily, lettuce is super easy to grow and maintain. Lettuce comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. Decide which variety to grow based on the time of year (some varieties cannot cope with very hot weather) and the taste and texture you prefer. Try the melt-in-the-mouth leaves of the Butterhead, and the tender and colourful Red Oak. Lettuces have shallow roots, so are sensitive to water. They require moist, but well-drained soil, and partial sun. You can sow lettuce seeds every two weeks or so to ensure you have lettuce to harvest throughout the growing season. 2. Potatoes If you’ve never tasted the difference between a homegrown and store-bought potato, you’re in for a real treat! Homegrown potatoes have a firmer texture, and much tastier flesh. Plus, potatoes are easy to grow, even for inexperienced gardeners, and they store well. You can grow potatoes in a garden bed, or in a container. You’ll need to properly prepare the soil, and do a little research on companion planting before you get started. Proper cultivation is essential when growing potatoes to prevent them going green – green potatoes are poisonous. Potatoes are very sensitive to the sun, so work well as a winter crop in warm climates. There are many varieties of potatoes you can grow, including sweet potatoes. Try out a range of colourful varieties, which are packed with nutrients. 3. Bush beans Beans come in two main varieties, bush beans and pole beans. Pole beans require a trellis, so they aren’t a low-maintenance plant. Bush beans, however, are very easy to grow. Bush beans do not require the same level of soil fertility that other plants need. In fact, overly rich soil can leave plants vulnerable to pests and diseases. So, if you don’t have your own compost heap, no worries. Bush beans do require well-drained soil and plenty of sunlight. They are best grown during warm summer months, and you can sow seeds every few weeks to ensure a continuous supply of delicious beans. Provider, Blue Lake and Tendercrop are good varieties of green bush beans that are widely available.