Gardening

Florida Weave: A Better Way to Trellis Tomatoes

Tired of flimsy metal cages that keep breaking every season or topple over from the weight of your plants? If you want an easy and inexpensive way to trellis tomatoes, let me introduce you to the Florida weave. Also known as the basket weave method, it goes up fast and uses everyday supplies you might already have around the yard. But it’s actually an effective method of trellising (staking) tomatoes if you plant your tomatoes side by side in rows. Many small-scale farmers and commercial growers employ the Florida weave method (also called the basket weave method) because it’s fast, simple to set up and maintain, and uses space efficiently during the growing season—as well as after the growing season when there’s so little material to store. I first learned about the Florida weave over 12 years ago when I was deciding how to support my 14 tomato plants in raised beds. That first summer, I caged all my tomatoes with the metal conical cages you typically find in garden centers. While the conical cages worked okay in the beginning, I managed to obliterate a few (mostly while uprooting old plants) and didn’t have enough for all my sprawling indeterminates that season. I also found that my plants became too top-heavy for the cages as they grew taller—and while I’d like to think I was an awesome first-timer at growing tomatoes (haha), the simple fact was that my plants easily outgrew those small cones. So rather than buying more cages (too much money for something that wasn’t durable) or constructing my own towers out of rebar and cattle panels (too much work), I started looking for tomato supports that were inexpensive and effortless. That’s when I discovered the Florida weave technique! The Florida weave used everyday supplies I already had around the yard (stakes and string), and with a little help from my handy husband (who has all the fun tools), I had all my plants neatly trellised in no time at all.What is the Florida weave? With the Florida weave method, the idea is to “sandwich” your plants between lengths of twine. The twine gently holds up the plants without the need for additional stakes and clips. Overhead view of tomato stem being trellised by hemp twine in a Florida weave Subscribe to Garden Betty Sign up below to get my free weekly emails and I’ll teach you how to keep your plants alive, maximize your garden bounty, and preserve the harvest. I agree to my personal data being used for interest-based advertising as outlined in the Privacy Notice. Website Your Email... Yes Sign Me Up! Close-up of tomato stem supported on both sides by green twine Ideally, you start trellising tomato plants when they’re under 2 feet tall and easier to manage. (I do mine shortly after I transplant my tomatoes in a trench, but before I mulch my beds.) Larger plants become unruly and difficult to weave around the branches. You also run the risk of driving stakes into the roots of more established plants. So, start early with this system! Large tomato plants trellised in a raised bed using the basket weave technique What kind of tomatoes can you support with the Florida weave? The Florida weave works especially well for determinate tomatoes, since they never grow more than 5 feet in height. This makes it easy to contain the plants within the weave and have them be fully supported, especially if you’re using wooden stakes and natural-fiber twine. However, I’ve always trellised indeterminate tomato plants with the Florida weave and never had issues. In raised beds, my plants typically grow 8 to 9 feet tall, so any part of the vines that grow beyond the stakes simply drape over the topmost twine like a bed sheet on a clothesline.

Squash For Fall Flavor

A bounty of produce can be had if you start growing butternut squash! Our in-depth guide reveals everything you need for great harvests.Nothing quite signals the arrival of autumn as a steaming bowl of butternut squash soup. A type of winter squash, it grows during the spring and summer but will last well into winter on a pantry shelf. Butternut squash can be made into any number of dishes, from being roasted and added to tacos to pureed and made into pie. For any gardener or home cook growing butternut squash, patience is key. Like all squashes, butternuts are native to the Americas and have a long history there. Butternut squash is a modern variety of winter squash, as squashes have been cross-pollinating and creating new varieties for millennia! Today’s butternut squash was developed by Charles Legget of Stow, Massachusetts in 1944. Since then, even more variations have been grown from this one type, including miniature versions such as the Honeynut squash and Butterbaby. Squash plants produce incredibly nutritious fruits, and butternut squashes are full of vitamins A, B6, C & E while low in calories. The seeds, when eaten, are even thought to be useful in calming the nerves. With a wide range of uses, and a long storage time, you’ll find many gardeners and homesteaders treat this as a staple in their pantry.

Growing Cabbage: A Guide For Great Heads

Love fresh cabbage? So do we. Growing cabbage isn't difficult and supplies you with big heads of nutrition-dense produce. We'll show you how!Cabbage is one of those old-school crops that is easy to grow. It’s resistant to the cold, highly nutritious, and easily cooked into a variety of dishes. Growing cabbage in your garden is a great way to learn how to grow food in your garden, as it’s easy enough for beginners but can challenge even experienced gardeners. Plus, the impressive heads are eye-catchers, filling up garden beds nicely. Due to its long history of cultivation, cabbage varieties have been adapted to grow year-round in diverse climates. Cabbages were a staple crop for peasants in Northern Europe. With its cold tolerance and excellent shelf life, cabbage was a safety net for rural farmers. Cabbages are rich in vitamin C, calcium, and phytochemicals. The purple varieties especially are high in anthocyanins (a compound found in purple produce such as blueberries and beets), which have been shown to possess cancer-fighting properties. Not only are they nutritious, but growing cabbage also has the added benefit that it can develop new growth after harvesting.

Taro Plant: Grow Your Own Backyard Poi

The taro plant is not only a lush and vibrant green tropical, but a food-producer. Learn all about taro in our in-depth grower's guide!If you love tropical plants, we have the perfect one for you. The taro plant, one of the many types of elephant ear plants, features gigantic leaves with a variety of unique colorings. Plus, it grows the taro root, which is actually one of the top staple foods around the world! Taro is an ancient plant. Originating in Southeast Asia, it’s believed to be one of the first plants ever cultivated. Today, practically any country you visit, from Australia to Belize to Papua New Guinea, has its own taro-centered dishes such as poi. In the United States, Hawaii is the main commercial grower. The tropical state alone has 100 varieties of taro, which is an important part of Hawaiian cuisine. If you’re wondering what taro roots even look like, just imagine a ringed and hairy potato. Once peeled, taro flesh is white or pink and has a sweet, nutty taste. The giant leaves are also edible and usually cooked like spinach. Elephant ears thrive outdoors in tropical areas, but will also grow in United States zones 8-10. It also makes an excellent houseplant, though it needs plenty of sunlight. Because of its size, taro will definitely attract attention in your home or garden. And because of its tubers, taro will step up your edible gardening game.

Growing Brussel Sprouts

When you're growing brussels sprouts, you get a great harvest after enjoying an unusual plant. Here's our guide to growing them yourself!Everything is cuter when it’s tiny, right? Well, that makes Brussels sprouts the cutest veggie around! Sadly, despite their adorable size, these baby cabbage look-alikes often get a bad rap, but that can usually be chalked up to user error. When overcooked, Brussel sprouts release sulfur, which is why so many people complain about the smell. When cooked correctly though, you’ll find that they have a palatable, nutty flavor. With just a little love, care, and seasoning, growing Brussel sprouts can make them the stars of your garden and your kitchen, so let’s give them a try! Brussels Sprouts gained their popularity, and their name, in Brussels, Belgium. Though they date as far back as the 1200s, these little veggies weren’t brought to the United States until the 1800s. Today, California grows most of the US Brussel sprout supply. You don’t have to live in the Golden State to cultivate these cute veggies though. In this guide, we’ll teach you how to grow Brussels sprouts, as well as harvest and prepare them. Follow our tips, and you may just change your mind about these delightful baby cabbages.All About Brussels Sprouts Growing Brussel Sprouts Growing brussel sprouts in the cool months gives you great veggies. Source: clurross They look different, but Brussels sprouts are very closely related to kale, cauliflower, cabbage, and broccoli. These are all varieties of Brassica oleracea, which is wild cabbage. Wild cabbage has been cultivated into several groups, including our beloved sprout Gemmifera. When you look closely, you’ll see that Brussel sprouts have many similarities to the other Brassica groups. These veggies store nutrients like nobody’s business, making them some of the most healthy foods you can eat. They also produce seeds through silique fruit, which are dry valves that seed internally. Brassica veggies are also typically biennials, meaning they flower after two years of growth. Brussels sprouts in particular resemble cabbage at first. As they grow though, the cabbage-like leaves shoot up on a sturdy, main stem that reaches 24-36 inches tall. The leaves continue to grow and hang over the stem. When you push those leaves aside, you can see a tiny round Brussel sprout growing right out of the stem. By harvest time, the entire stem will be shrouded in sprouts. There are lots of Brussel sprout cultivars to choose from. For some classic green medium-sized sprouts, try the Dagan or Jade Cross cultivars. You can also choose an early-blooming variety such as Churchill or Tasty Nuggets (the former bearing very small sprouts). Of course, you can add a little more excitement to your garden by choosing a colorful cultivar. The Red Rubine and Redarling plants feature beautiful reddish-purple coloring. Or you can go for a more blue hue with the Falstaff cultivar. Most colored cultivars feature a slightly sweeter taste and keep their color when cooked.

Why Do Tomatoes Split On The Vine?

You’ve raised your tomato plants right: provided them with good-quality potting mix, fertilized them with care, faithfully pinched off sucker shoots, or trimmed back low-hanging branches. So why do tomatoes split, even when we’ve spent so much time and effort on making sure everything goes perfectly? Tomato cracking and splitting can appear in two forms. In one, concentric rings of cracks can appear around the top of the fruit. In the other, lengthwise splits happen down the sides of the fruit, either along the indents in heirlooms or along the surface of smooth varieties. So is there a way to stop your tomatoes splitting before ripe? Let’s explore this in detail and go over what causes it, how to stop it from happening, and whether your split tomatoes are safe to eat.What Causes Tomatoes To Split? Why Do Tomatoes Crack In a nutshell, tomatoes split open when the fruit inside is growing faster than the tomato’s skin. What’s usually the cause of that is a sudden influx in the amount of water the tomatoes are receiving. Perhaps you were watering inconsistently, or a sudden heavy rain produced a deluge. Whatever the reason, it’s most common when there’s been a long dry spell followed by a lot of water. This problem is most common in tomatoes that are nearly ripe. As tomatoes get close to ripeness, their skin doesn’t grow as quickly. But the plant will try to cram more water into the fruit nonetheless, and that will result in skin split open to expose the fruit. This type of cracking is referred to as radial cracking. With heirloom tomatoes, you have another reason to ask “why do my tomatoes split”. You see, there’s a price to pay for all of that flavor. Many heirloom varieties, especially the big beefsteak types, will crack in concentric circles around the top of the fruit as they grow and mature on the vine. In most cases, these are fine cracks or lines on tomatoes rather than the deep tomato cracks down the sides. Think of them as “tomato stretch marks”, as the plant’s trying to make the fruit nice and juicy for you. Some heirloom tomatoes crack along the sides too. So now that you know what causes tomatoes to crack, and for that matter what causes tomatoes splitting on top, how do you prevent tomatoes cracking in your garden?

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Artichokes

We don’t give artichokes enough credit. They may descend from thistles and have a funny name, but these are actually very interesting veggies! Taste-wise, artichokes are delicious, especially dipped in melted butter. They have a nutty flavor and are surprisingly meaty in texture. Historically, the close relatives of artichoke plants were used medicinally. Today, we enjoy this unconventional veggie on pizza, in soups, or all on their own. What is an Artichoke? Artichokes are actually unopened flower buds. They have pointed leaves, called bracts, that wrap around the artichoke heart and developing flower. Depending on variety, the bracts are usually blue-green and dark purple. If left to blossom, the bracts open up to reveal fluffy, thistle-like flowers in bright blue-violet. So how do artichokes grow? The plant itself is fairly large. It can reach five feet tall and two to four feet wide. It grows clumps of stalks adorned with jagged leaves and, in some varieties, spines or thorns. Grow artichokes as part of decorative landscaping. They add a whimsical look that you just can’t get with run-of-the-mill garden flowers. The globe artichokes that we’ll be focusing on are a subgroup of Cynara cardunculus, known as cardoon, which is an edible, clumpy weed that’s sometimes grown as decorative plants. Artichoke falls under the Scolymus group of this species, which is less weed-like and commercially cultivated. If left to their own devices, these plants can revert to their wild and weedy roots. Native Area Artichoke farm with rows of artichoke plants in a field. Because they’re from the Mediterranean, artichoke plants prefer mild winters and cool summers. Artichokes originated in the Mediterranean and date back to at least the 5th century BC. They didn’t make their way to the US until the 1800s but became a big hit. Today, over three-quarters of commercial artichokes come from California, mainly in Monterey County. There’s even an artichoke festival in Castroville every May celebrating this fantastic produce. Because they’re from the Mediterranean, artichoke plants prefer mild winters and cool, long summers. The ideal artichoke growing zone is 7-10, though many gardeners in zones 5 and 6 have success as well. It’s possible to grow artichokes as annuals in colder zones, but they don’t produce optimally until their second year of life.

Growing Cherry Tomatoes

A rite of passage for most beginner gardeners is growing cherry tomatoes. It can kickstart the love of gardening! Our tips make it easy. Growing cherry tomatoes is a great place to start growing all sorts of tomatoes. Most gardeners have tomatoes growing at some point. There’s much to choose from, with over 100 established varieties of cherry tomatoes. In the scheme of all tomato varieties cherries are easy to grow. Cherry tomatoes or Solanum lycopersicum were cultivated for centuries from wild tomato fruits grown in the Andes. Inca peoples selected them for their sweet taste and snacking ability. Anyone with the privilege of eating a ripe cherry tomato right off the plant knows why this happened. When you’re stocking up on tomato seeds for spring, consider growing cherry tomatoes. We like Chadwick’s cherry tomatoes from San Diego Seed Co. Whether you’re interested in heirloom seeds, black cherry tomatoes, determinate, or indeterminate seeds, cherry tomatoes make it easy to produce something worthwhile throughout the growing season. Grow them, eat them fresh, can them, and have sweet flavor infused with the sun year-round! Forget other tomatoes; let’s grow cherry tomatoes! All About Cherry Tomatoes Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme is also known as cherry tomato, as well as a wide selection of varietal names ranging from tomaccio to Sungold to Dances With Smurfs. They originate from wild tomatoes cultivated in the Andes by Inca peoples about 80,000 years ago. Tomato plants have trichome-covered leaves and fruits that cluster. The difference between cherry tomato plants and other tomato plants is that cherry tomato fruits and seeds are smaller. These tomatoes grow from flowers blooming on branches covered with green serrated leaves which connect to a central stem. External pollination occurs on tomatoes, but they are self-pollinators. The yellow tomato plant flower has five petals. After flowers die, fruit forms. The edible part of a tomato plant is the fruit. Leaves can be eaten, but they are poisonous to humans in large quantities. Like other nightshade plants, tomato leaves contain alkaloids solanine and tomatine that are hard to digest. Still, there is a lot of debate as to whether tomato leaves can be cooked. There are tons of cherry tomato varieties to choose from. I’m currently growing Cherokee purple cherry tomatoes, an indeterminate variety that exploded since spring moved into summer. They have purple skin, a red interior, and great flavor. Traditional red varieties are a great way to start your tomato journey. If a red tomato bores you, there are many types of tomatoes to choose from, including yellow and orange varieties. Planting Cherry Tomatoes Determinate varieties are easier to grow in containers (like the Air Pots stocked in our online store) or raised beds. Indeterminate varieties go wild in the garden and require a lot of space and care. Plant them in prepared ground. Leave at least four feet between each row of these plants. But choosing the right variety will have bearing on how to plant your tomatoes. Transplant summer varieties after the last frost. If you’re starting your tomatoes from seed, start those tomato seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost. Plant fall varieties a few months before the first frost. Tomato plants need deep holes, at least 10 inches down. Plant your tomatoes in deep holes to allow solid root growth and nutrient uptake. Add a tomato trellis early on instead of a tomato cage which cherry tomatoes quickly outgrow. The trellises or stakes (instead of cages) give you vertical room to work within your garden. This also prevents heirloom tomatoes from contracting diseases. Cages and stakes are great supports for your plants but due to clustering, consider a trellis for your tomatoes. Cages are a no-go here unless you have extremely tall cages that can handle indeterminate growth. Caring for Cherry Tomatoes Caring for a cherry tomato plant is easy if the right conditions are met and maintained every day. Here are key aspects to pay attention to.

How To Harvest Lettuce Of All Types

Do you know how to harvest lettuce you've grown? Whether it's head or leaf lettuce, we have tips to walk you through harvest time. Lettuce is one of those cool weather plants from which you may collect leaves or harvest whole heads. You can even harvest lettuce as a microgreen! With all the varieties out there, it is easy for a gardener to get confused. We will provide the ultimate guide to how to harvest lettuce greens and tips on how to properly store your lettuce harvest. To learn how to grow lettuce, check out our in-depth article that’s chock-full of gardening tips on how green lettuce grows! Planting your own lettuce is a fun way to start or end the season. They can be grown directly in the soil, in raised beds, or in small spaces like container gardens. To extend your season, consider providing a shade cover as your lettuce grows that can reduce heat exposure and delay bolting. Keep in mind that when you are harvesting, make sure that your tools are clean and sanitized. Scissors, garden shears, a small knife, or grass shears can be used to collect your lettuce and also a basket or container to hold your crop. When you are ready to store, you will want to have paper towels and a plastic storage bag on hand. Now let’s explore a few varieties of lettuce such as microgreens, cos, looseleaf, crisphead, butterhead, and stem lettuce. When Should I Harvest Lettuce? The packets that hold your lettuce seeds will provide an estimation of when to start harvesting. The recommended dates on your lettuce seeds should be used as guidelines in partnership with observation. Young baby salad greens can be harvested by the end of the first month of planting. These baby salad greens are cute, nutritious, and tender. They develop after the microgreen stage and are only a few inches tall. Leaf lettuce and compact heads of lettuce will start to mature 6-10 weeks after sowing in your garden. Harvest leaf lettuce when it’s about 4 inches tall. The outer leaves on compact heads can be collected during the growing season before harvesting the whole head. These individual outer leaves can be ready to collect when they are 4 inches. When the entire plant has reached 6 inches, it is ready for a cut-and-come-again harvest every two weeks or so. By leaving the lettuce crown intact for this method, there is a chance that plants will continue to grow for an additional lettuce harvest. Be sure to provide lots of water for a successful regrowth! If you are cultivating types of lettuce such as romaine, crisphead, or butterhead, you are looking for leaves to be 8 inches. Squeeze the head to check for firmness, the leaves should be compact and plump. Many types of lettuce prefer cool weather and do not do well in hot weather. When daytime temperatures reach above 80 degrees, the lettuce will start bolting and a flower stalk will emerge. You will want to harvest your lettuce immediately if this happens. The leaves can turn bitter in taste, but a few bitter leaves can be hidden in a larger salad. Or you can let the lettuce go to seed and reseed itself in your garden. When you grow lettuce, the best time of day to harvest lettuce is in the cool and early morning. The leaves will be fresh and crisp when the weather is cool! If harvested later in the day, your lettuce may be soft and wilted from sun exposure. Lettuce grows best when the temperatures are cooler, and is less susceptible to bolting then too. Harvesting Lettuce By Type There are many types of lettuce you may be gardening, such as the black seeded Simpson that is valued for its green loose leaves or headed lettuce like romaine to add a bit of crunch and texture to your salad. Some of these varieties do well in a strategic trimming of the leaves or harvesting the plant above its crown and they will continue growing. Another method of harvesting lettuce is to remove entire plants by digging them up from the soil. Lettuce Microgreens Harvesting microgreens is super easy! They will be ready 10-15 days after planting the seeds when the first true leaves have emerged. If you are gauging by height, harvest the microgreens when they are 2-3 inches. It’s fun to explore the flavor profiles of the microgreens at different heights. Use a pair of scissors or grass shears and cut the entire plant ½ inch above the soil line. We have many other cool gardening tips on growing microgreens including lettuce microgreens if you need inspiration! Cos Lettuce Cos or romaine lettuce has a desired crisp or crunch factor to its leaves. As it develops, the outer leaves of the lettuce plant can be harvested. You can cut off the leaves 1-2 inches above the soil. By harvesting these young green leaves, there is more time for the lettuce to mature for the ability to harvest entire plants. Romaine lettuce can take 55-70 days to grow from seed before it is mature. Check the lettuce itself to confirm when it is ripe. Romaine is prepared for harvest when the lettuce leaves are 6-8 inches tall, the ribs of the lettuce are firm and juicy, and the leaves have formed a tightly-compacted head. Squeeze the lettuce head to check for firmness. Young head lettuce will be soft and overripe head lettuce will be hard. To harvest, cut 1 inch above the soil, preserving the crown for a second harvest. If its garden lifespan is close to an end, you can dig up the entire plant to harvest the lettuce head. Loose Leaf Lettuce There is a wide harvest window for leaf lettuce varieties. The young baby lettuce leaves can be picked for harvest 25 days after planting and the plant will reach full maturity in 50-60 days. Be sure to harvest your crop before it bolts. Loose-leaf lettuce is great for repeated harvests, as you get multiple harvests during the season. Once the leaves are 4”, you can cut the entire lettuce 1-2” above the soil line. If the crown is left intact, new leaves will sprout from the base and can be ready to harvest again in 10-15 days. To have a continual harvest throughout the season, try multiple seed sowings and staggering the sowings. Resowing is recommended if you desire the fresh taste of the young baby greens. There is another harvesting approach: trimming young leaves on the outside of the head for greens while allowing for the inner leaves to grow. You can start harvesting lettuce from these plants when they are 4 inches by snipping them above the soil line. Crisphead Lettuce Crisphead or iceberg lettuce is absolutely delicious as homegrown salad greens. This can be a cut-and-come-again harvest but you might not get a full head of lettuce. This green lettuce is more suited for a single harvest. The harvest window is around 50-75 days after planting. Iceberg lettuce can be prepared for harvest as soon as the head develops, the center feels firm with leaves tightly compacted, and before the exterior leaves turn brown. Harvest before the crisp lettuce begins to open and the seed stalk begins forming. More importantly, harvest immediately if you notice the seed stalk or the lettuce starting to bolt, a common problem in hot weather. The best way to harvest iceberg lettuce is to dig up the entire plant and then trim the stalk off. This lettuce plant has a thick stem and it can be difficult to harvest while it is still in the ground. Please be careful to not damage the lettuce head if you choose to harvest it while it’s in-ground. You can lift the lettuce upwards and cut the stem right below the leaves. Butterhead Lettuce Butterhead lettuce is a savory and delicate salad green. It is ready to harvest as early as 45 days after seeding, with the final harvest no later than 75 days after sowing. This lettuce has its best flavor before it is fully mature. Baby butterhead lettuce can be harvested early in the season. You can routinely trim the young leaves, use a cut-and-come-again method, or thin out the garden bed by removing some of the young plants. You are ready to harvest the whole heads of lettuce when it begins to feel firm and the leaves are 8-15 inches. There are a few methods to remove the full head of lettuce from the garden, such as cutting the stalk below the head of lettuce, or digging up the plant and cutting off the stalk. If you harvest and leave the base of the plant or stalk, lettuce may regrow and produce more leafy green goodness. Stem Lettuce Stem or celtuce lettuce is different from the other lettuce mentioned above because it is appreciated for its stem. The leaves can be collected throughout the growing season yet the flavor may start to turn bitter as it matures. Celtuce lettuce is ready for harvest when the diameter of the stalk is 1 inch and it is 8-14 inches. Cut the stalk at the base of the plant, right above the soil line. Or you can remove the entire plant by digging it up and trimming the base and roots off. The leaves will also need to be trimmed off before storing. How To Store Fresh Lettuce First a few tips on properly storing lettuce. Placement in the fridge is key, most like to put their lettuce in the crisper drawer. Avoid placing it towards the back of the fridge, which may accidentally frost your crop. If the lettuce is placed next to apples, bananas, or pears, these fruits can increase rates of decomposition and your harvest may wither quickly. Lastly, you can refresh wilted lettuce by placing it in an ice bath for 15 minutes before consuming it. Tender greens like microgreens, loose-leaf lettuce, and trimmed lettuce leaves wilt fast and are best enjoyed within 3 days of harvesting. First, wash any dirt or debris from these salad greens, then let dry on a dish towel or pat dry. Store them in the fridge in a plastic bag or container, packed in some dry paper towels (I like to use brown coffee filters) which will absorb any excess moisture and keep the lettuce from getting soggy and decaying. To extend the shelf life of your harvest, continue to check and replace the paper towels when they are saturated. Head lettuce like cos, iceberg, and butterhead can be stored directly in the fridge without washing and can last 1-2 weeks. First, remove any dirty or damaged leaves. Wrap the head of lettuce in paper towels or dish towels and place it in a plastic storage bag or bin. Just as with the lettuce leaves, you can extend the shelf life of your lettuce by replacing the paper towels when they get wet. When you are ready to consume, then you can thoroughly wash the head of lettuce. With stem lettuce, make sure to remove the leaves from the stem. Wash, dry, and store in the fridge in a plastic bag. They are best fresh but can last up to 1-2 weeks in the fridge.

Growing Collard Greens

In the southern US, growing collard greens is extremely common. Find out about these fleshy greens and how to grow your own supply!People have been growing collard greens for centuries on every continent. They are known as a staple in the US south. Tour any kitchen garden in the south, and you’ll find collard greens growing there. They are delectable, just as much as their vegetable counterpart kale, which has gained popularity in the US in recent years. It’s a wonder they’re so popular because they tend to attract a lot of pests. But the secret to growing these large green leaves is to grow them at the right time. Although collards will flourish in summer, they’re less likely to attract pests in winter. And as the weather cools, the flavor of collards sweetens. They’re excellent for any of your favorite winter soups or stews. Maybe they make up for their attractiveness to pests by being so easy to grow from seed. As long as you have healthy, rich soil, and good fertilizer, growing collards is not difficult at all. As a great companion to many other food crops, they can accompany your favorite garden foods. Old plants can also serve as a trap crop on the tail-end of their life cycle just before they go to seed. Thinking of growing collard greens yourself? Well, let’s take a look at the essentials for growing collard greens and discuss how you can cultivate your very own crop of collards that will last multiple seasons.

When To Harvest Corn For Perfect Ears

Do you know when to harvest corn at its peak? We're discussing not just sweet varieties, but all types of corn in this in-depth guide!A delicious summer staple, corn is the backbone of so much of what we eat in the United States. Whether it’s eaten as fresh sweet corn or dried to make cornbread or tortillas, we rely so much on this wonderful plant. But getting the timing right on when to harvest corn can be a little tricky. With its kernels hidden from view, how can we tell when our corn is ready to harvest and time to enjoy the sweet fruits of our labor? Corn is a grass, believe it or not! When it first germinates in the garden, it shoots up out of the earth with a single little blade of grass-looking matter. Over time it will shoot out more leaves and push upwards, eventually forming nodes and growing ears of corn. Getting the timing right on when to pick corn requires a little planning ahead. This crop goes from seed to ear of corn in under 100 days. A common phrase used among people who grow fresh corn in their garden is ‘knee-high by the 4th of July’. That means that the seeds have been planted, germinate and reach about 12-18” high by early July. By no means do you have to follow that rule, but you should take a look at the date of the first frost in your region and count backward to figure out your own planting date. You want to make sure that your corn is ready before a killing frost in the fall undoes all the plants’ hard work. Corn on the cob isn’t the only way to eat the bounty of your corn stalks. There is also corn for popcorn, animal feed, flour, cornmeal, and tortillas. Knowing what type of corn you’re trying to grow is crucial to keep your corn sweet when it lands on your plate. Unlike when you pick an ear in the home garden, mechanical combines are used to harvest fields of dry corn for animal feed. This is because there are certain types of corn like flint, popcorn, or flour corn that are only picked when they’ve thoroughly dried. This is completely different for sweet corn. Sweet corn has a relatively short shelf life. Immediately after harvest, the sweet sugars in the kernels start turning into starches and thus decrease in sweetness. This is why it’s such a popular food to grow with home gardeners. The quality of homegrown sweet corn that’s harvested in the morning from the garden and eaten for lunch is unsurpassed by anything you’ll find on a grocery store shelf, you can taste the sugar in every kernel!

Growing Potatoes In A Bucket

Did you know that growing potatoes in a bucket was an option? This may be the very trick you need for great potato harvests! We reveal how. Potatoes are a huge staple crop of many different cultures and peoples. People have grown potatoes for centuries all over the world. There are at least one hundred varieties of seed potatoes and many different ways to eat them. Better yet, there are many ways to grow them, and among those is the topic of the day: growing potatoes in a bucket! Store-bought potatoes are cheap and plentiful, but they may contain some trace amounts of pesticides. New potatoes are the most at risk for this because they’re harvested closer to the time pesticides are applied. This is just one reason many people decide to grow their own potatoes. ‘Yukon Gold’ and ‘Pontiac Red’ are varieties you can easily find at the grocery store. Sprouted potatoes left in the bag might be too old to eat, but they’re easy to propagate. If you start with these, it’s virtually free to grow spuds. Some don’t have space outdoors or the tools needed to grow potatoes. Novice gardeners may be deterred by the care potatoes take to grow, but it’s not as hard as it may look. Thankfully for them, potatoes live well in containers, grow bags (like Root Pouch grow bags), pots, buckets, or in the ground. If you’re interested in growing potatoes, but you’re not sure if it’s right for you, cultivating potatoes in a 5-gallon bucket is a great way to experiment. This method doesn’t require a lot of prior gardening knowledge, nor does it require a lot of effort. As long as your soil is amended with compost, you’re good. In buckets, you can grow potatoes in a multitude of settings.

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Lakota Squash

The Lakota squash is often said to be from the Sioux people, but its history is more unusual than that. Alicia Thompson will cover its origins and the growing tips for this tasty squash that is worth growing in the garden.The Lakota squash is a delicious winter squash that can add to any fall menu. Once mature, the nutty fine-grained flesh is popular for baking, and the seeds are a tasty snack. This pear-shaped squash has a beautiful orange rind with green streaks, which makes it a delightful fall decoration. This vine can be huge, with each requiring a bare minimum of four to six feet of space in the garden. Despite it being a form of winter squash, you will need to harvest before the first fall frost hits your garden. And you’ll want to; they’re tasty squash! But it has a definite history – one that doesn’t actually involve the Lakota tribe. Let’s talk about this lovely squash hybrid and how it came to be!

Growing Parsnips, Carrot’s Paler Cousin

Bring comfort to winter meals by growing parsnips this winter. Simply roasted on a tray, mashed into a puree, blended into a soup, or even pickled, parsnip’s nutty but sweet flavor offers a hearty addition to the holiday table. This long-lasting root vegetable is a great source of fresh produce during colder seasons. Before sugar cane was around, parsnips were used as a sweetener! More unusual uses of parsnips include the UK’s predilection for making parsnip wine, and as a substitute for pancetta. Parsnips pair well with flavors like nutmeg or citrus and can be used in place of carrots or potatoes. Grow these root vegetables in your vegetable garden for winter harvests. Parsnips are a long-lasting source of cold-weather food, sweetened by frosts, and will keep well for winter food storage, even in the ground! Let’s take a look at how to grow and harvest this much-loved crop. All About Parsnips Pastinaca sativa, or parsnip as it is commonly known, originated in the Mediterranean. Parsnips grow wild in Europe and in the USA, where the wild plants can cause burns. Even the green parsley-looking foliage in the cultivated variety is inedible. For some people, the parsnip can create a rash when also exposed to sunlight, due to the toxic sap the greens contain. Parsnips look like carrots but are usually cream-colored, and larger and fatter than their cousins. The foliage resembles celery foliage and forms a rosette shape at the top of the plant. Parsnips are a taproot and the vegetable portion is typically around 5-10” wide. If left to flower, they will produce yellow, umbel-shaped flowers. Parsnips become sweeter when left in the ground past a frost or two. It can be planted in spring or summer for a winter harvest. Even though parsnips are technically a biennial and in some climates a perennial, they are typically grown as an annual winter crop, harvested the first year since the flavor will diminish in the second year. This taproot is packed with nutrients, including high levels of potassium. Planting Parsnips Plant seeds into your garden from late spring to late summer for harvest in the fall to early spring of the following year. In warmer climates, sow parsnips in the fall to harvest in early spring. Make sure the parsnip seeds are fresh and are planted ½ inch deep. It is important to have good soil coverage over the seeds. Older seeds will not germinate and parsnip seeds go bad quickly. For optimal seed germination and healthy seedlings, it is important that the ground is not colder than 46 degrees Fahrenheit. Add a cover over the garden to assist in germination. When planting parsnips into your vegetable garden, consider planting shallow-rooted plants like radishes or violas in between the rows for the best use of space. Grow parsnips in an open space with full sun. Parsnip seedlings prefer a sunny spot but can also handle part shade. Parsnip roots are delicate, so plant the seeds directly into the ground instead of starting them in pots and then planting outside. Parsnips prefer well-worked, loamy soil. Sow the seeds ½ inch deep and 6 inches apart into warm, moist, weed-free soil. Sow three seeds per planting to ensure germination. After 3 weeks, the parsnip seed will germinate. Thin out seedlings at 6 weeks and make sure each plant is spaced correctly. If planting parsnips in a container, it needs to have a depth of at least 12 inches to ensure healthy plants. 10-gallon Air Pots, or small Root Pouch grow bags are a great choice for this purpose. The parsnip roots need to be able to grow straight down. These should be spaced 6 inches apart to make the best use of the container. After 6 weeks, thin out the seedlings to 6 inches spacing for good airflow. Growing this plant in a container allows you to have more control over the soil and create the loose, well-dug soil that parsnip plants thrive in. Care Parsnips are not difficult to grow but pay attention to a few particulars of this root vegetable as it can be picky about too much nitrogen and its moisture levels. You will have the best success direct sowing the seed outdoors in garden beds and interplanting it and keeping the bed weed-free. Patience is a virtue here. After you wait, the rewards are great for this long-season crop! Sun and Temperature Grow parsnips in full sun to partial shade. The seeds should be planted into warm soil in USDA growing zones 2-9. The long growing season actually helps to ensure good flavor in these vegetables. If you leave the parsnips growing in the garden for a few touches of frost, it will turn the starches into sugar and sweeten the vegetable. Water and Humidity One of the most important aspects of caring for this cold-hardy root vegetable is keeping the moisture levels consistent. These plants prefer to be watered deeply as it assists the roots in reaching deep into the soil. Parsnips are not drought tolerant. If the plants are not watered enough the roots become tough. Water the parsnips deeply and consistently for the first 4-6 weeks and then continue to keep them evenly moist throughout the growing season. Soaker hoses or drip irrigation can help. Mulching will keep moisture levels even. Soil Parsnips prefer loamy, well-prepared, loose soil which makes it easy for their roots to reach down. The PH should be between 6-8. Well draining soil is the priority here and if the soil is too rich, it can cause problems. Create rows of well-sifted and fine compost mixed with sand and keep the seeds well covered with at least ½ inch of soil. If you have clay-type soil, make certain to work a lot of compost through it so that it doesn’t become compacted, as parsnips will struggle with root development in clay. Fertilizing Parsnips can grow in poor soil and do not need to be fertilized, as too much nitrogen can cause overgrowth at the top and not enough growth in the roots. Vigorous top growth can also make the plant susceptible to disease. Phosphorous is the most essential nutrient due to its contribution to healthy root development. Side dress parsnip rows with a 1-2-2 fertilizer halfway through their growing season. Propagation Sow parsnips into the garden from late spring to late summer, for harvest in fall to early spring of the following year. Make sure the parsnip seeds are fresh and the ground is warm. Older seeds will not germinate, and parsnip seeds will lose viability quickly, so purchase fresh seed every year. It’s best to direct sow your parsnips. No other propagation methods are viable. Harvesting and Storing With all the hard work put into growing your crop, you need to harvest parsnips correctly and store them carefully. By following these expert tips, you will have a fresh supply of parsnips for winter meals even as frost covers your garden. Harvesting Parsnips are ready to harvest after 120 days. For a sweeter flavor, let the parsnips sit in the ground for a hard frost or two, as it turns the starch to sugar. When the greens begin dying back, the parsnips are ready to harvest. Keep parsnips in the garden with a mulch over the plant and harvest as needed throughout the winter and as late as early spring. Harvest your crop before early spring as the parsnip roots become tough over time. Wear gloves and remove any lingering foliage before harvesting. When removing the parsnips from the garden, do so carefully, as any damage to the roots can make storing impossible. Begin by carefully removing the soil around parsnip roots with a shovel or hoe. Again, be careful not to damage the roots. At this point, carefully push down on the parsnip and then try to pull it from the ground. You may need to do some additional digging around the roots. Dust off any dirt with a brush and then wash in cold water. Dry the parsnips. Leave the skin on, as it enhances the flavor. Storing Store parsnips in a cool, dark place like a root cellar, garage, or basement, in a container of sand that covers the vegetables entirely. Remove all greens before you bury them in the sand. Store the parsnips this way for up to 4 months. Freezer storage is also an option. Treat parsnips as if they were carrots to prepare them for freezing. They also dehydrate or freeze-dry well for later addition into soups or stews. Troubleshooting Prevent problems with parsnips by giving them proper air circulation, controlling moisture, and using good quality parsnips seeds. Paying attention to these details will keep your garden bed of parsnips thriving! Growing Problems Too much nitrogen can cause overgrowth in the foliage and not enough growth in the root. If parsnips are not spaced properly at about 6 inches apart, it can cause airflow issues and damage when harvesting the parsnips. Roots could become tough if they do not have enough space to develop. Soil that is not sandy and loose will bind up the roots, causing them to develop improperly and to twist, fork, or bend. Similarly, excessively fertilized soil could cause parsnips to fork. Pests The carrot fly lays eggs at the top of the parsnips, and their larvae eat the roots. Take preventative measures to avoid an infestation. Cover the garden bed with netting and make sure to thin the plants properly. Companion planting with chives or other alliums will help deter pests. Alliums have a low root system which will pair nicely with the parsnips, and they have a smell that deters the carrot flies. Do not grow parsnips near carrots, and be sure to rotate parsnip crops to different garden beds each year. Sowing parsnips later in cooler climates can also help avoid flies, as can the use of a floating row cover. Sticky traps may catch adult flies. Beneficial nematodes can eliminate the larvae. Aphids are ever-present pests on green leafy material, and parsnips are no exception. These sap-suckers will wreak havoc on the leaves of your root crops. Neem oil or insecticidal soap will handle these, as will a strong blast of water. Root-knot nematodes are among the worst pests of all root veggies. These microscopic nematodes cause knots and warped roots to develop that restrict water flow through the root system. Beneficial nematodes should be applied to the soil, as they will search out the damaging nematodes and eat them. Apply the first time as directed, wait two weeks, and do a second application with a new batch of beneficial nematodes. This wait-and-apply-again technique will help beneficial nematodes to build their population and to continue surviving in the soil. Diseases Parsnip canker is common in cool, moist conditions. Caused by multiple different forms of fungi, particularly Itersonilia perplexans or Fusarium spp. in the United States, it causes black, purplish or even orange rot to form on roots. There are no fungicidal treatments that are effective against these cankers at this time. Plant resistant varieties, and avoid root damage caused by nematodes or fly larvae that can cause parsnips to be more susceptible to canker. Remove roots that are damaged and destroy them. Do not compost cankered crops. A form of alternaria leaf blight (Alternaria dauci) causes browned leaf edges that look like the leaves have been burned. Damaged leaves will fall off easily. This disease does not impact the root and can be treated with copper-based fungicidal sprays.

How To Store and Preserve Squash

Squash is one of those annual fruits that provides year after year in multiple seasons. Some are overwhelmed by the amount of squash they produce and find different ways to store them. You might wonder how summer squash compares to winter squash in this regard. Perhaps you already know that certain methods work best for one or the other, or maybe you’ve decided to grow kabocha, pumpkins, or butternut for the first time. One thing is sure: if you successfully harvest, cure, and store your squash, you can enjoy it year-round. Spaghetti squash in summer, or zucchini all winter long is possible! Harvesting these fruits before the first frost and after the last frost is easy, and the curing process is too. Storing options abound, as well. Food Safety Be sure to follow food safety guidelines when preserving the crops. You should remain vigilant when it comes to safety, especially in canning, preserving, or fermenting foods. Improper storage can cause disease. The CDC has a guide on Home Canning and Botulism. Consult this guide first if any of these methods are unfamiliar to you. Another excellent resource for storing food long-term is the National Center for Home Food Preservation. Their guide for storing long-term is great. Consult this to learn ways to add shelf life to your efforts in the garden. Follow guidelines properly before you embark on this endeavor. How to Store Winter Squash After harvesting the crops, sort out any with soft spots or dings on their surface. After you harvest winter squash, sort out any with soft spots or that have a little ding on the surface. These should be removed from long storage and consumed immediately or composted. Some types, like your butternut squash harvest, should be at the right color for its variety. Once you harvest winter squash, wipe it down with a dry cloth to remove dirt and debris. Cure winter squash in an area at temperatures of 70 to 85°F (21-29°C) with relative humidity at 80 to 85 percent. Make sure the fruit is in a single layer. Some guides recommend curing squash in the sunlight out in the yard. While this is great for some regions, others may be too cold. Proper curing of these winter fruits gives them a hardened protective layer of skin that keeps out mold and rot. It also promotes sweeter and more pleasing flavors by increasing the content of natural sugars in the flesh. Curing also reduces the fruit’s respiration rate, which makes long-term shelf life easier. Curing Times Curing time for the crops will depend on the variety. Harvest all the squash on the vine before the first frost of the growing season. Cure both fully ripe and immature squash. This prevents the rot of fruits and gives you more fodder for cooking experiments. Keep good air circulation around the fruit either with a window screen or a structure made of chicken wire. A root cellar is a great place to cure and store squash from your pre-winter harvest. Properly cured fully matured squash is such a treat. Different winter squashes require different curing times after harvesting. Some don’t require any curing time at all. For instance, pumpkins or pie pumpkins, spaghetti squash, acorn squash, delicata squash, and a few others are ready to eat right after harvesting. In particular, delicata squash has such a thin rind that it can be eaten right along with the flesh. Butternut squash, Hubbard, large kabocha squash, and Lakota squash have specific curing times. It’s essential to cure them for the skin to eventually coalesce for edible fruit. Here is a list of the times needed for each winter variety that requires curing: Butternut: 2 to 6 weeks Hubbard: 4 weeks Large kabocha: 4 to 6 weeks, depending on the variety Lakota: 1 to 2 weeks Dry Storage The crops can be stowed in a dry place for up to 6 months. Winter squash can be stored in a dry place for up to 6 months depending on the variety. In a place with higher humidity than your average kitchen, or colder, they won’t last as long. Store them this way if you don’t want to incur the extra cost involved in canning, fermenting, and preserving. Refrigeration Cooked or pureed crops should be placed in the fridge in an airtight container. Since whole squash is best left in a place with good air circulation at room temperature, the refrigerator isn’t a good option for long-term storage. However, cooked or pureed winter squash keeps in an airtight container or resealable plastic bags for 3 to 5 days in the refrigerator. Of course, this is not a good option for long-term storage, but it’s a great way to enjoy the squash multiple times in one week. Freezing The crops freeze very well by keeping them in a plastic bag or an airtight container in the freezer. Winter squash freezes very well. Keep it in plastic bags or an airtight container in the freezer for up to three months. Butternut squash stored in the freezer can then be used in soups and bread recipes. Note that you must remove the skin before storing it in the freezer. Freezer containers are great for storing winter fruits. Dehydration The crops can be dried in an oven or a dehydrator. To dehydrate winter gourds, peel the skin, cut it in half, and remove the seeds and stem. Save the seeds for next year’s garden, or enjoy them roasted and spiced. Cut the entire squash into ¼ inch strips and steam them until they are tender (about 3 minutes). Then dehydrate them at 140°F (60°C) for 2 to 3 hours. Reduce the temperature to 130°F (54°C) and let the squash dry until it’s brittle. Store it in an airtight container for up to 2 months. Use this method if you have access to a dehydrator or low-temperature oven. Freeze-Drying The crops can be freeze-dried to prolong their storage. Winter squash can be freeze-dried. It is best to cook the squash in your preferred method before freeze-drying as the firm flesh reconstitutes better if pre-cooked. This can prolong other methods of storage, such as smoked squashes. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for your unit. Pickling The crops should be quick-pickled and stowed in the refrigerator for about 1 week. Winter squashes don’t keep at room temperature in cans because they are low-acid foods. It’s essential to refrain from pureeing winter squash for these storage methods. Any winter squash that is pickled or canned should be treated as fresh food and stored in the refrigerator—never at room temperature, which is too warm for foods with low acid content. The result of pickling and storing winter squash in a warm room is botulism. Pumpkins, acorn squash, and butternut squash can be quick-pickled and stored in a refrigerator for about one week. Skin the squash, remove the stem, and seeds. Then slice them or cube them. Make your preferred brine with equal parts vinegar and sugar, and cook the squash in the brine before placing it in your jar. Let it cool and tightly seal it for the refrigerator. Smoking A shot of orange crops being smoked in a smoker in a well lit area outdoors To smoke the crops, a smoker is required, but it will result in some of the tastiest ways to enjoy the crops. Although this method requires access to a smoker, it’s the tastiest way to enjoy winter gourds. It will not, however, store for long. Smoked winter squash should be eaten immediately, or 1 to 2 days after it is prepared. After curing your gourd, cut it in half and remove the seeds and stem. Season it, and wrap it lightly in foil, poking holes in the area where the seed cavity is. This provides ventilation and air circulation that allows the smoke to permeate the skin. Place the squash in the smoker at temperatures of 225 to 230°F (107 to 110°C) for 1 ½ to 2 hours, or your preferred consistency. Serve it whole or sliced, and add butter and other spices. Fermenting Cut the crops into bite-sized pieces, submerge them in brine, then transfer them to a container with a lock. Although it’s not necessary to ferment winter squash, it is possible to do so. It’s important to err on the safe side and treat all forms of canned winter squash as fresh foods rather than those that can withstand long-term storage without spoilage. Use a gourd that is easy to cut into bite-sized pieces. Submerge it in brine, then transfer it to a can that has been pressure sealed, or has a fermentation lock. Allow it to ferment in the refrigerator. Winter squash is great in chutneys, with raisins, cinnamon, and garlic. Properly fermented winter squash will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 year. Once it is opened, consume it within a month. Canning Cube the gourd before placing them in a pressure-sealed container. Canned winter squash must be pressure canned as it is a low-acid food. It is essential that you cube the winter squash rather than puree it. You can always puree it later when you’re ready to use it. This method requires access to a pressure canner, seals, lids, and a tool to remove air bubbles. These aren’t incredibly expensive but can cost around $100 on the lower end. Also, you need space in your kitchen to can gourds and other winter squash. Use a tested and safe recipe from the National Center For Home Food Preservation. Store winter squash in cans for 3 years. Properly canned winter squash can also have a storage life of up to 5 or 6 years. These cans are perfectly ok to store at room temperature, but once you open them, keep an eye on them and consume them quickly.

How To Grow Green Onions Or Scallions

The name green onion refers to many different types of onions. Learning how to grow green onions ensures you’ll always have access to the freshest, most flavorful alliums you can find! The true green onion is Allium fistulosum, also known as scallions, bunching onions, or just plain old green onions. These are the ones we’ll focus most of our attention on today. Traditional onions, Allium cepa, have a red or white bulb, but they can be harvested before the bulbs form, and the young stalks can be used like green onions. Finally, there is Allium proliferum, called tree onions or Egyptian onions. These onions are harvested specifically for their long green leaves. They develop in tight knots of multiple bulbs and stems attached together, and tend to spread over time. If you’re wondering how to get all of these delicious varieties of green onions, we have tons of information to share! We will go over how to start green onions from seeds, starts, or other methods. Let’s jump into how to plant green onion seedlings in your garden. All About Scallions Allium fistulosum, or green onions, are also commonly called bunching onions, scallions, Welsh onions, or Japanese bunching onions. It is likely that they were foraged in the wild before becoming popular in China and Egypt. Tokyo Long White, Evergreen, and Heshiko are some of the most popular varieties. Green onions look similar to the traditional onion, Allium cepa. They have tall, green stalks, and are usually 1-2 feet tall. They have slender white bulbs at their base that do not get large enough to form an onion. In hot temperatures, scallions will bolt to seed, forming a globe shape of tiny white flowers. Green onions are perennial and the scallion leaves can be harvested for several years in mild climates. All parts of scallions are edible, including the flowers. Thinner scallions will have a milder taste, while thicker onions will have a stronger flavor and hold up to cooking better. One interesting fact about scallions is that you can tell the variety by looking at a cross-section of the leaves where they turn white: if it is D shaped or flat, it is A. cepa, but if it is O shaped, it is A. fistulousum. Planting Green Onions Begin to sow seed indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost. Keep the seeds moist and they should emerge in 7 to 14 days. If direct sowing seed, sow each seed ¼ inch deep when temperatures are at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit. A seedling heating mat can help with germination. Thin seedlings so they are 2 inches apart or leave them to separate later. When the seedlings are ready to transplant, separate the seedlings. Begin to transplant 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost date in the spring, but if desired you can keep planting throughout the spring and summer season and into the fall. Space seedlings one to two inches apart, with rows spaced 6 inches apart. Consider interplanting with your other crops as green onions may help to repel pests from your garden. Be sure to irrigate regularly as onion plants have shallow roots. Plant traditional onion sets 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. Care for them like you would a transplanted green onion, but plant at least 2 inches apart to allow space for bulb growth. Remember, the green leaves can be used just like green onions are, but an Allium cepa will eventually form a larger onion bulb. Grow green onions in a garden bed, or in containers, like the Root Pouch grow bags, Air Pots, or tiered GreenStalk planters we stock in our online store! Care Now that you know more about the types of green onions, let’s learn how to take care of them so they can mature! Let’s go over more of the specifics on how to care for scallions. Sun and Temperature Plant in a sunny location that gets at least 6 hours of full sun. Scallions form best in zones 6-9 and thrive in temperatures between 60-75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plan to grow scallions through the winter, mulch around your planted bulbs in the fall with straw or other organic matter to protect them from cold temperatures and prevent weeds. In zones warmer than 9, you might want to plant your green onions somewhere in the garden where they will receive afternoon shade. Since onions like full sun, it is definitely possible to raise scallions in hot climates! Growing green onions indoors is also an option, particularly for those who have cold winters. Make sure they have plenty of light and warmth during the cold season and you’ll have scallion harvests through the winter and well into the spring. Water and Humidity Morning is the best time to water to reduce soil moisture evaporation. This also allows foliage to dry out during the day so they’re less prone to disease. Scallions are sensitive to drought. Aim for 1 inch of water per week. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation. Ditch or “furrow” irrigation is another viable method. Dig a long trench in the soil an inch or two from your plants and flood the furrow, allowing the bulbs to absorb moisture. If you have sandy soil, you will need to irrigate more frequently. In a cooler season or mild climate conditions plants develop more slowly, so less watering is required. Soil Scallions prefer fluffy, well-balanced, and loamy soil. If you have poor soil, amend it with organic matter like compost at least six inches deep. While onion bulbs are able to develop in clay soil, they have a hard time if it dries out, and the soil may hold a little too much moisture for their liking. It’s best to amend to allow for good drainage while still keeping the soil moist. To grow scallions, the optimal soil pH range is between 6.0 and 7.0. These bulbs can tolerate soil pH a little lower than 6.0, so if you’re planting them near tomatoes or other solanaceous plants, they’ll manage. If soil is too alkaline, these may struggle to get off to a good start. Fertilizing Since scallion plants are leafy greens, you’ll want to fertilize them every regularly with a nitrogen-rich amendment. Liquid fertilizers such as fish fertilizer or comfrey tea have nutrients immediately available to your plants, so consider watering with a liquid fertilizer during the growing season to provide nutrients when your plants need them most. For a longer-term solution, use granular fertilizers that will be released slowly into the soil. Look for one that is high in nitrogen (the “N” in N-P-K). If desired, top-dress with rich compost. Pruning Most of the time, pruning is only done for harvesting purposes. Plants can be trimmed for cosmetic purposes, such as removal of wilted leaves, but otherwise should be left until it’s time to pick them. If your green onions bolt to seed and you want to prevent seed drop, trim off the flower stalk. Often, you may experience leaf wilt during flowering as well. Early trimming of the bud and stalk (referred to as an onion scape) will redirect your plant’s energy towards leaf development. If you’d like to collect seed, let the flowers fully open. Onion flowers are pretty impressive. They create a large, almost ball-shaped umbel. As the flowers start to fade, tie a paper bag over the top and tightly secure it to the stalk. The seeds are very tiny. Cut the stalk once it begins to droop, and set it somewhere so that the head can dry out and the seeds can drop out of the flower. Propagation One method of propagation is bulbs or “sets”. The best way to use sets is by planting them in late fall and overwintering them in the garden. In the spring they’ll start pushing up new growth. You can also use nursery starts of Allium cepa, and plant them to achieve the green onion stalks. Keep in mind that only Allium fistulosum will produce tree green onions with no onion bulb. True scallions have a milder flavor than A. cepa, which has a stronger onion flavor. If you save rooted bulbs from store-bought green onion plants, you can easily regrow green onions. They’ll happily produce tall, green leaves every couple of weeks and give you a bonus crop. This works both indoors and outdoors, so if you’d like to save your young green onion bases from the supermarket and pop them into moist soil under a T5 light, you’ll see new growth rapidly emerge! And, of course, starting from seeds is definitely an option. There’s a wide variety of seeds available for many different species of scallion or bunching onion types. Follow the directions in the “planting” section above for how to sow seed. Harvesting and Storing Wondering what to do once you have mature green onions? Let’s talk about how to harvest the plant and what to do with your delicious scallions! Harvesting Start to pick your green onions as soon as they reach a usable size. The best time to harvest is when the bulbs are white and have a diameter about the size of a pencil, but even smaller seedlings can be harvested. In fact, it’s possible to sow onion seeds and harvest onions as microgreens if you so choose! Either dig up the whole plant if you plan to eat the mild white bulb, or snip the stem off just above soil level and allow it to continue growing. A clean pair of kitchen scissors or garden snips work well for this. Cut-and-come-again harvests like the latter method mean you can enjoy a continual harvest by leaving the roots and base of the plant in the ground and cutting the stalks off an inch or two above the soil line. The plant will quickly send up more edible shoots! When growing traditional bulb onions as green onions, harvest the green leaves early and use them like scallions. Egyptian onions should be harvested from the second season onward. If your plant is bolting, the stalk and unopened bud are referred to as an onion scape. Onion scapes are just as delicious as the leaves are, and can make an incredible addition to a stir-fry or other meal. Storing Store green onions in a partially filled jar in your fridge, with just enough moisture to come partway up the bulbs. If you harvest stalks without bulbs, store the stalks wrapped in a paper towel in a plastic storage bag. Alternatively, slice them and refrigerate them cut, also in a plastic bag. Moisture is the enemy to your green onions as they’re being stored with these methods, so the paper towel is crucial to keep bulbs and leaves dry. To freeze green onions, rinse them off and thoroughly pat or air dry them before freezing. The texture will often be a bit mushy when they thaw out, so this is best if you plan to use them in cooked food rather than as a garnish If you have a dehydrator, dehydrating the stalks and grinding them into a powder is a great option for long-term storage. Troubleshooting Now let’s discuss some problems you might encounter while growing scallions. Since scallions are in the Allium family, they tend to repel many pests with their odor, although they are susceptible to a few pests and diseases that are easily treatable. Growing Problems Too much moisture can cause your growing scallions to develop some forms of root rot. Be careful to provide just enough moisture for them to thrive. Use a drip hose or other irrigation system to keep the soil damp. On the flip side of that, too little moisture causes leaf wilt or yellowing, so make sure they aren’t thirsty. If it is too hot, your onions will bolt to flower. Be careful to plant them at the right time for your growing zone. Competition from weeds can cause scallions to be small and weak or even die. Check your plants regularly and pull any weeds out from around them, especially ones in their root zone. Mulching can reduce weeds as well. Pests Thrips and aphids are common pests in onion crops and can be blasted off with a strong stream of water from a hose. If they persist, use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Severe infestations can be treated with pyrethrin. Onion maggots can be prevented by following crop rotation in the garden. You can also use floating row covers as a barrier against the flies that lay onion maggot eggs. Beneficial nematodes are natural predators of onion maggots. Most pyrethrin insecticides that work on thrips will also help manage onion maggots. Slugs and snails are also an issue, but they’re easy to treat. A beer trap can be placed amongst your crops to catch some of these annoying pests. As long as it’s about as deep as a pie pan, snails and slugs will be attracted to the aroma of the beer and it’ll be deep enough to drown them. If you don’t want to use beer traps, an organic slug and snail bait is another great option and will draw the pests away from your greens. Diseases White rot can cause mold or rot at the base of the plant and yellowed, wilted leaves. If you notice diseased plants, remove and dispose of them. Avoid planting alliums in that location for a couple of years. Good crop rotation is essential for your allium’s health. Onion downy mildew (Peronospora destructor) can cause irregular spotting and decreased size. Copper fungicides can be used to treat, but use a 3-year crop rotation between allium crops in that bed. Botrytis leaf blight causes white spots on leaves, and the plant may wilt and die. This is most common when plants are wet for 20 hours or more during cool temperature conditions. Provide proper airflow to allow plants to dry out. Treat with alternating copper and sulfur fungicides until the blight is eliminated, or remove infected plants and destroy them. Do not compost blighted material.