Gardening

How to Plant, Grow, and Care For Horseradish

Although not a common ingredient in home kitchens, most are aware of the humble horseradish, a root vegetable used as a herb for its pungent flavor. Whether you can it or grate it fresh, there is nothing quite like the quintessential horseradish taste – strong and overpowering, but undeniably delicious at the same time. This taste is even better at its freshest: straight from the garden. Horseradish is a popular perennial vegetable due to its prolific growth. In fact, horseradish grows so well without any care, it is often labeled invasive. You’ll have far more trouble getting rid of the plant (if you ever actually want to) than when you actually plant it. Besides taste and incredible ease of growth, this plant also comes with a wide range of health benefits, used in ancient medicine hundreds and thousands of years ago. Growing this plant in your own backyard will not only add diversity to your diet, but to your garden too. Plant History This root vegetable goes back to ancient times, with Greek, Egyptian, and Roman history. Like many common herbs and spices with medicinal benefits, horseradish history goes back centuries, further than the historical record of the plant. The ancient history of horseradish is shrouded in myth and miscommunication – such as the belief that it was a prominent herb in Ancient Egypt. However, what we do know about its history is no less fascinating. The written history of horseradish first appears in Ancient Greece, where the root was prized for its medicinal value. Roman Pliny the Elder recommended the plant in his famous work Natural History. It also features in popular Greek Mythology, where the Oracle of Delphi is believed to have told Apollo that horseradish is worth its weight in gold. Early consumption was mostly medicinal, especially during the Middle Ages. It was used to treat a myriad of ills, from coughing to digestive issues. Due to increased travel during the Renaissance and the Age of Exploration, the plant spread to the rest of Europe around the 15th and 16th centuries. Here, it gained a new value as a spice and condiment, used alongside meat dishes for its intense flavor. In the 1600s, horseradish was most popular in Germany, Scandinavia, and Britain. Around the same time, horseradish was transported from Europe to North America, where it gained the same level of popularity. Common in 18th century home gardens, records show it was even grown by George Washington and Thomas Jefferson. Horseradish remains popular 200 years later. It is still part of Jewish tradition, on the Passover Seder plate, and continues to be used in herbal remedies. By planting horseradish in your own backyard, you can preserve a little piece of this history. Cultivation Spicy horseradish is considered invasive to some people, as it is near impossible to get rid of. Horseradish is cultivated for its long roots and a special chemical makeup that gives the plant a spicy kick. The root contains glucosinolates that break down to form isothiocyanates when the tissues are damaged, like when grating or chopping. Most commercial production occurs in Europe, where this vegetable is most often used. When cultivated in gardens, horseradish can become invasive. This is due to the aggressively spreading tap roots that burrow deep into the ground. Older roots, although largely woody and inedible, make way for the spread of new, tender roots that spawn new leaves every season. Even the smallest piece of horseradish root left in the ground can grow into a fully-fledged plant, making it incredibly difficult to completely remove once planted. Gardeners attempt to control this growth by planting horseradish in pots or in a cordoned-off area of the garden. Frequent harvesting also limits the spread of the plant but often does not stop it completely. While many see this as a burden, the aggressive spread is ideal for gardeners with an intense appreciation for horseradish – plant it once and you’ll have a lifetime supply. It’s also ideal for beginners due to its rapid growth and ease of care. Propagation If you’re looking to grow even more horseradish plants faster than the plant will spread on its own, they are incredibly easy to propagate. In fact, they probably sit high on the list of easiest garden plants to propagate, as the tiniest piece of root will quickly grow into a full plant. These plants are commonly propagated by division. This method is also useful if your plant begins spreading and becomes too densely packed. Simply divide the plants and place in pots or in another area of your garden to continue growing. Propagating by Division It is possible to split the root of a horseradish plant to propagate it. To propagate horseradish, first begin by preparing your soil. As a root vegetable, it’s important that the site is completely free of weeds and is amended with plenty of organic matter for healthy growth. If growing in containers, ensure the medium is light (preferably mixed with a peat alternative or perlite) to prevent waterlogging and rotting of the roots. Lift the plant out of the soil gently using a fork. Ensure you don’t damage any parts of the root or break any off, as any roots left in the soil will likely regrow. Once the plant is lifted, you can either cut at the crown of the plant, or at the root, depending on the growing season. In colder areas, crown cuttings will help the plant establish quicker before the leaves die back. Once the roots are cleaned and dried, split the plant vertically with each section containing a healthy amount of leaves. These cuttings can then be planted deeply back into the soil as they are. In warmer areas, root cuttings are a viable option and will likely yield more plants. This can be done when the leaves of the plant die back around autumn. Simply cut the roots into 6-inch pieces and plant each piece around 1-2 feet apart. Come spring, leaves should emerge from the planting spot, indicating the roots have been established. Planting The most important factor in planting horseradish is quality soil. Planting horseradish could be as easy as throwing the root in the ground and letting it grow. However, in order to keep your plants as healthy and productive as possible, there are a few factors to consider. The first is soil. As horseradish is a root vegetable, soil quality is incredibly important. Ensure you loosen the soil at least 10 inches down to help root growth and amend with plenty of compost. Remove any weeds or materials that could hinder the root’s prolific growth. Once the ground is prepared, the roots can be planted 1-2 feet apart. Ensure you place the root in the ground the right way up – the roots won’t grow upside down. If you’ve purchased your horseradish set from a nursery, the bottom end is usually cut at an angle, with the top end square. It’s best to plant at a slight angle (45°) to allow the roots to grow without interfering with the neighboring plants. Ensure these roots are all placed in the same direction for easy harvesting. Once placed in the planting hole, cover with 2 inches of soil and gently press to secure in place. Follow the same procedure when planting in containers. Ensure your container is deep enough to accommodate the long roots without crowding, at least 25 inches deep. How to Grow Horseradish is so tolerant of such a wide range of conditions that it is almost impossible to get growing wrong. When gardeners say “plant it and forget it”, they really mean it. In fact, you probably will forget about it when the leaves die back in winter, only to be welcomed by masses of lush green foliage in spring. If you want the best roots possible, there are a few conditions to consider, but they don’t need to be followed too closely – horseradish will grow just about anywhere. Light Horseradish thrives where it can receive full sun, at least six hours. Horseradish grows best in areas with full sun. This greatly improves root growth, making the roots you eventually harvest bigger and tastier. They can also grow well in areas with partial shade, but the roots will not grow as well with less sunlight. If you’re planting several horseradish plants, shade is not a problem, but if you’ve only got one or two and want a significant harvest, focus on full sun. Those lacking the right planting spot can always plant in containers. This is recommended anyway to avoid the intense spread of horseradish through the rest of your garden, but it also allows you to modify the light conditions throughout the day, ensuring your horseradish remains in a full sun spot while accounting for the movement of the sun. Water Horseradish needs just the right amount of water to keep the roots from getting to hard without rotting. Watering often when the plants are young helps speed up growth and keep the roots healthy. But, once established, horseradish is considered relatively drought tolerant and isn’t a high water consumer. If the soil remains dry for too long, the roots may become woody and unpleasant to eat. This won’t damage the plant in the long term, as new growth will appear from these woody roots, but it will ruin your harvest. Ensure you water just as the soil dries out to keep the roots and leaves in the best possible shape. Avoid overwatering at all costs. Excess water in the soil can lead to root rot and encourage a wide range of diseases that will permanently damage your plants. Rather underwater and stay on the safe side than overwater. Soil It can’t be said enough: the soil is the most important factor if you want to grow horseradish in your garden. Horseradish will grow in a wide range of soils, even those considered poor quality. However, it is unlikely to grow well under these conditions. For thick, healthy roots and a long-lasting plant, soil is the most important condition to consider. The soil should be incredibly loose and well-draining. This provides the least resistance, allowing the roots to travel downwards without trouble, and prevents waterlogging that ultimately leads to root rot. The pH is not a major factor impacting growth, but these plants do prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil rather than an alkaline soil. Amend the soil with plenty of compost before planting and often afterward to promote soil health. The good organisms and nutrients from the compost will go straight to improving the roots, bettering your harvest overall. Climate and Temperature Cooler climates are favored by horseradish, and frost should not kill it. These plants prefer temperatures on the cool side. Cold soil over winter actually improves the flavor of the roots, so tough winters are not a problem for this plant. Frost is also not a problem – it will kill the leaves, but the roots will remain alive and well in the soil below, ready to bounce back next season. Horseradish grows best in USDA Zones 4-7 or 8. It may occasionally grow well in Zones 3 or 9, with some conditions adjusted for optimal growth. In general, cool moderate climates are best, but this plant is incredibly adaptable to a wide range of conditions. Fertilizer If planted in nutrient-dense soil, your horseradish plant should have no need for fertilizer. Fertilizing horseradish is not a necessity as these plants grow relatively well without any added nutrients when planted in the right soil. Regular composting, before planting and throughout growth, will improve soil health enough to keep your horseradish roots growing rapidly. Those wanting to boost their harvest and improve overall growth, or those will poor soil nutrients, can apply a balanced vegetable fertilizer at the beginning of spring. Vigorous leaf growth is a good sign as the plant focuses its attention on the leaves in spring and summer, switching to the storage of starches in the roots over autumn as the leaves die back. Maintenance It is highly important to maintain horseradish so it does not take over your entire garden. Horseradish requires little to no maintenance, making it ideal for beginners or the occasionally lazy gardener (guilty as charged). Regular weeding is encouraged during the early stages of growth for good root health, but not much else is needed to keep these plants in great shape. Rather than maintenance, your most important task will likely be control. Keeping these plants contained to the area you planted them in is not an easy task. Monitoring their spread and harvesting or dividing plants when necessary is just about the only maintenance you’ll need to manage. Harvesting You should have plenty of horseradish root to harvest in the spring or fall. Horseradish needs time to establish; at least one season, but preferably two. Harvest when needed, ideally in spring or autumn for the best flavor, by loosening the soil with a gardening fork. Follow the direction of the root, loosening the soil as you go, to make it easier to remove. If you don’t want any horseradish to grow back next season, make sure you remove the entire root and any smaller roots that come off during removal. Once pulled, scrub the roots clean and leave them to dry. They can then be stored in the fridge for several months in a plastic bag or container. You likely won’t have any problems with harvesting, but rather the problem of having too much to harvest, and more than you know what to do with.

How to Plant, Grow, and Care For Bell Peppers

Are you thinking of growing some bell peppers in your garden this year, but aren't exactly sure where to start? Bell peppers are actually fairly easy to grow, provided you have the right climate, soil mixture, and meet their watering needs. In this article, organic gardening expert Logan Hailey documents all the steps you'll need to follow in order to successfully plant, grow, and care for bell peppers. Raw or cooked, sliced or diced, bell peppers are a colorful sweet addition to just about any summer meal. This warm-weather crop is a popular nightshade vegetable for any garden. If you loathe spice but still want a sweet crunch, this is the perfect veggie for you. They lack capsaicin, which is the active compound that gives hot peppers their heat. Plus, they yield in abundance all summer long. Peppers are generally a bit more challenging to grow because they need protection from the cold, plenty of water, and extra fertility. If you keep them happy, you will have plenty of sweet peppers for summer meals and winter preservation. Before deciding to add this vegetable to your garden, there’s plenty of important information that you’ll need to digest. You’ll want to learn everything you can about how they grow, before embarking on your pepper planting journey. Let’s dig into how to grow the best bell peppers your garden has ever seen! Propagation and Planting When it comes to propagation and planting, there are a few important factors you need to take into consideration for an effective harvest. Let’s look at some of the basics when it comes to first getting started with planting them in your garden. How Long Do They Take to Grow? It can take up to 90 days for a plant to mature. Bell peppers are warm-season annuals that take 60 to 90 days to mature. This means you need to get them started indoors early in the spring or purchase high-quality seedlings to transplant as soon as the weather is warm and the risk of frost has passed. Many varieties take 65-70 days to grow green fruits, but 85-90 days to produce the coveted ripe red bell peppers. How to Seed Bell Pepper plants perform best when the seeds are started in a tray indoors. Start pepper seeds indoors at least 8-10 weeks before the last frost. They are slow-growing and need plenty of time to get established so you can jumpstart your garden season. Use a south-facing window, grow lights, or a small greenhouse nursery to start pepper seedlings. It also helps to have a heating pad to get the best germination. You can begin with smaller cell trays, 6-pack trays, or a 4” pot. Some gardeners like to start with smaller cells and then up-pot their pepper plants after 3-4 weeks. Others simply start the seedlings in larger round or square pots. Either way, be sure your baby pepper plants are in a consistent warm space above 60°F, preferably with a heating pad underneath to keep soil temperatures around 80-90°F. Use a soil thermometer probe to determine how warm the soil is. Sow pepper seeds about 1/4” deep in a loamy well-drained potting mix. Keep consistently moist (but never soggy!) for 7 to 14 days until germination. They germinate slower in cold soil, so be patient or warm things up! Once the first cotyledons have appeared, back off the watering only slightly to ensure that the seedlings don’t dampen off (rot at the base). Cold treating your bell pepper seedlings can yield a larger harvest. Professional growers use a controlled cold treatment method on their pepper seedlings in order to increase the number of flowers and fruits later on. This is a more advanced technique that requires a controlled space like a small greenhouse with a thermometer and heater. To do it, wait until the third set of true leaves appear and then bring the minimum night temperature inside the nursery down to 53-55°F for 4 weeks. Keep the plants in full sunlight and protect them from harsh winds. After 4 weeks, bring the temperatures up to 70°F all day and night. Then, grow and plant as normal. The plants should be very resilient at this stage. You can yield at least twice as many peppers with this method, however, you will need to seed 1-2 weeks earlier than usual. Direct Sowing is Not Recommended Because bell peppers prefer warmer conditions, direct seeding is not recommended. Because peppers need hot conditions and a long growing season, directly seeding them into the garden is not recommended for most climates. Either buy happy seedlings from a local nursery or farm or grow your own seedlings indoors. Hardening Off Get your young pepper plant seedlings used to outdoor conditions by a method called hardening off. Pepper seedlings need to have an easy transition from the protected indoors to the unpredictable outdoor weather. Begin hardening off plants about 10 days before transplanting. You can do this by placing them in a protected (but still sunny) area outside and bringing them indoors at night for the first 4-5 days. Then, transition to leaving outside all night long while still in their pots. Give peppers plenty of time to adjust to bigger temperature swings. Transplanting Transplanting young seedlings should happen when the weather has warmed up. It is time to transplant when the soil is consistently warm and the risk of frost has passed (typically 2-3 weeks beyond the average last frost date for your region). Seedlings should have robust leaves and small buds, but no open flowers. To transplant bell peppers, begin by gently removing the seedling from its cell, ensuring that its roots have fully filled out the container but haven’t started twirling around and getting root bound. Create a planting hole a few inches deeper and wider than the root ball. Holding at the base of the plant, shimmy the plant out of the container and place it in the soil. Backfill the hole, keeping the soil surface aligned with the top of the root ball. You should never plant peppers deep the way you do with tomatoes. Plant Spacing It’s important to give this plant enough room to grow and have enough airflow. Space peppers at 9-12” apart in rows 24-36” apart, depending on the variety. If you plant them too close together they may become stressed from the competition for space, nutrients, and water, resulting in less vigorous plants. How to Water-In Transplants A phosphorus-rich solution is an excellent addition to your newly transplanted plant. To get your baby plants off to a good start, you can water-in the transplants with a high phosphorus solution such as a liquid seaweed fertilizer. This boosts root establishment and prevents transplanting shock. Use Row Cover Row cover not only keeps warmth and moisture in but also keeps bugs out. Whether they’re sweet or spicy, peppers like the heat. When we’re growing them in temperate climates like most of the United States, we have to do everything in our power to mimic those tropical conditions that peppers love. Row cover is a gardener’s best friend when establishing bell peppers. Floating fabric row covers can be secured over wire hoops to provide a buffer against cold weather and early plantings. The only caveat is that you need to open those low tunnels up if the temperatures get above 85°F. If you forget to remove the row cover on really hot days, blossom drop and heat damage can occur. Companion Planting Tomatoes can make excellent companion plants. Companion planting is a common organic gardening technique that helps improve garden growth by cultivating a diversity of plants that support each other symbiotically. Some bell pepper companion plants repel pests while others attract beneficial predatory insects or pollinators. Leguminous companion plants can add nitrogen to the soil, while ground cover companions help with weed competition.

How to Plant, Grow, and Care For Pumpkins

Pumpkins can be an excellent addition to just about any garden. But they can be a bit picky to grow, depending on your geography, soil type, and climate. In this article, gardening expert Logan Hailey examines each step you'll want to follow in order to successfully plant, grow, and care for Pumpkins in your garden this season.Whether you prefer pies, pastries, roasts, seeds, or jack o’ lanterns, pumpkins are a staple in any garden. Beyond the classic orange round pumpkin, there is an incredible diversity of these delightful winter squashes for every use. Fortunately, all of them can be cultivated in nearly the same way. With some warm weather and a bit of tending, these beginner-friendly vines are super easy to grow and can yield in great abundance. There are also many different pumpkin varieties, giving gardeners plenty of options to pick from, depending on their use. The quintessential autumn plant, pumpkins are a symbol of falling leaves, holidays, and the coming of cold weather. But they aren’t just for decor- pumpkins are incredibly nutritious and flavorful additions to any meal. Pound-for-pound, they are one of the most productive foods you can grow in your garden. Plus, when properly cured, you can eat them all winter long! Let’s dig into how to plant, grow, and care for pumpkins!

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Luffa

Whether you're going on a cleaning binge or just making lunch, growing luffa gets you what you need. This vine is easy to grow and harvest. Rachel Garcia shares our top growing tips.Back in 2019, Epic Gardening created the Luffa Challenge and saw amazing results from our followers all over the world! So many people grew this intriguing vine with great success that we thought we’d share some tips and tricks with gardeners everywhere. So, if you haven’t grown one already, let’s take a shot at growing luffa, the homegrown shower sponge! Many people think all shower sponges come from the ocean, but most commercially-produced sponges are actually dried fruit. The luffa is a climbing vine that produces cucumber-like gourds. As the gourds mature, their endocarp transforms into a fibrous network that’s mostly made of cellulose. This network forms the soft and absorbent exfoliator we’re all familiar with. Though they’re most commonly used in the shower, luffa sponges are great for scrubbing pots, cleaning shoes, making mats, and painting textures. They’re even used as shock and sound absorbers as well as for filtering water. There isn’t much this vegetable can’t be used for! The same goes for immature fruit. When still green, luffa gourds are just as tasty as the sponges are useful. They can be eaten raw or cooked. They highly resemble cucumbers, zucchini, and winter squash and are often cooked the same. Whether you want to try a new veggie on your plate or a sponge in your shower, luffa is an excellent choice for your garden. It is a bit tricky to grow, so we’ll go into detail on how to succeed with this nifty vine.

When and How To Plant Milkweed: 5 Milkweed Growing Tips

As conscientious gardeners, we strive to improve our corners of the world and to steward pollinators for a whole host of reasons. They pollinate our food crops, many of which require insect pollination to produce fruit. Meanwhile, they also improve the look of our ornamentals and boost seed production to expand the colony. Insects offer natural pest control, as some beneficial species are predators for common garden pests like aphids and scale. They’re an important part of the food web for birds, reptiles, and small mammals. And when it comes to butterflies, they’re beautiful visitors who enliven the space with their fluttering. No pollinator garden would be complete without growing milkweed. Milkweed is the sole larval host plant for monarch butterflies, whose population is in decline. It also serves a variety of other insects and caterpillars. Its naturalistic, easy-care habit and sweet ornamental bloom clusters are a delight. While planting milkweed is broadly beneficial, growing it comes with a sort of nuanced responsibility. Not all native species are a fit for our individual sites or the pollinators we intend to support. The right kind of milkweed for our area can get highly specific, and for good reason. The availability of regional native milkweed becomes an integral part of monarch migration patterns and survival. Here are our top milkweed growing tips for a lovely butterfly habitat!

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Gomphrena

If you’re seeking a hardy and cheerful bloom to add color and texture to your garden, gomphrena is a top pick. Flower farmer Briana Yablonski shares how to grow and care for this unique annual.One of my favorite aspects of flowers is the wide variety of shapes and colors they come in. Round flowers like daisies and coneflowers have a classic shape, and spikes like snapdragons and delphinium add height to the garden and bouquets. And gomphrena’s spherical blooms add a unique element to gardens and bouquets. Also known as globe amaranth, gomphrena produces many small, round flowers that are beautiful when fresh and dried. They come in a wide range of colors, so you can likely find one you’ll love. These annuals can also tolerate high temperatures, making them great flowers for the summer garden. Whether you’re looking for an easy-to-care-for flower for your garden or a long-lasting bloom for arrangements, gomphrena is a great choice. Gomphrena is a member of the amaranth family that produces spherical flowers. It’s a warm-season annual that thrives from late spring to early fall in most locations. Like many types of amaranth, it can tolerate heat and drought better than many flowers. The plants are often grown for cutting flowers since they hold up well when fresh and dried. Gardeners also plant them for their long bloom time and ability to attract pollinators.Gomphrena produces stiff stems that grow in a branching pattern. The stems are covered with oblong leaves covered with short, fuzzy hairs. A small, spherical flower appears at the top of each stem. The round flowers are made up of stiff, papery bracts that retain their shape and texture over time. The blooms come in many colors, including pink, lilac, orange, white, and red.

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Ageratum

Agertum’s easy-going nature and unique blooms make it an excellent addition to cut flower gardens, flower boxes, and planters. If you want to grow it at home, join flower farmer Briana Yablonski to learn planting and care tips.If you’re looking for a flower that serves a supporting role in the garden and floral studio, ageratum is one of your best choices. These easy-to-care-for annuals produce clusters of blooms topped with tufts of silk-like ray flowers that give a unique and soft look. While they won’t steal the spotlight in the garden, they add a soft texture and subtle pop of color. Most of the flowers are blue, but you can also find varieties in shades of pink, purple, and white. The plants continue to pump out new blooms for multiple months, providing long-lasting color. Plus, the blooms hold up well when cut and attract pollinators of all kinds.Ageratum goes by several names, including floss flower, blue mist flower, and bluemink. It’s an annual plant that’s native to Central America but widely grown throughout the world as an ornamental. In some locations, it’s escaped cultivation and become a nuisance plant. You can find multiple varieties of Ageratum houstonianum that vary in height and flower color. Some of these cultivars work well as short bedding plants, and others produce long stems that make them suitable options for filler flowers in arrangements.Ageratum is a flowering annual that grows best in summer. It has a mounding growth habit with densely packed, branching stems covered with slightly fuzzy, ovate leaves. Some varieties rarely grow more than six inches tall, while others send out two-foot-long stems. Clusters of small, round flowers appear on the top of the stems. Blue is the most common flower color, but you can also find varieties with white, purple, or pink blooms. All of the flowers have elongated ray florets that look like tufts of silky floss. Some people confuse ageratum with blue mistflower (Conoclinium coelestinum). While both of these plants produce similar flowers, the latter is a cold-tolerant perennial that’s native to the eastern half of the United States.

9 Annual Flower Color Palettes We Love for Spring

One of the best ways to turn over a new leaf in the landscape is with an annual color reboot. Gardening expert Melissa Strauss shares some color palette refreshers that you can achieve with the addition of flowering annuals.Perennials are the foundation of the garden, but spring annual flowers often define the color palette. While you’re waiting for your perennials to come back to life and reach their blooming season, why not add some colorful annuals to brighten up the space? Using these single-season plants is the perfect way to add color and texture to your landscape. There are many benefits to planting them, including the ability to grow things that otherwise won’t thrive in your climate. They also tend to have a prolonged and more intense blooming period, so they make a bold impact. Part of the joy of gardening is the artistry of designing and executing a beautiful space. One of the first steps in achieving that is choosing a color palette and then looking for plants that you love in those colors. Here are some of my favorite color inspirations for this year’s spring annual flower garden.

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella) Flowers

If you’re looking to grow gorgeous and ethereal flowers this season, look no further than love-in-a-mist (nigella) flowers. These incredible showstoppers will add a touch of elegance to your garden. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum covers how to plant, grow, and care for these majestic flowers.Love-in-a-mist flowers also go by their botanical name, Nigella. They put on beautiful, dancing flowers framed by delicate fennel-like foliage that resembles verdant mist. As they grow, their foliage tangles beneath their flowers and bracts. You can grow these mystical flowers in flower beds, cut gardens, or pathways. They look beautiful when paired with other delicate flowers. Or, use them as backdrops to roses and other brightly colored centerpieces. They come in a variety of colors, from the popular blue varieties to white, pink, and purple varieties. They’ll bloom for several weeks starting in late spring. Once they bloom, they’ll fill with color. Growing these stunning early-season bloomers is super easy, even for novice gardeners. Let’s dive into how to plant, grow, and care for love-in-a-mist (Nigella) flowers below. Love-in-a-mist flowers are from the genus Nigella. They produce upright foliage with slender stems and colorful flowers. They’re often grown in garden beds and pathways as border crops. Many gardeners love them for their mist-like appearance, which frames other colorful garden flowers. These delicate flowers are members of the buttercup family of plants, or Ranunculaceae. They make a graceful addition to any flower garden. You can also grow them as a small to medium ground cover surrounding your garden beds. Because of their numerous flowers, they’ll be some of your garden’s best early-season pollinator attractors. Bees and other insects swarm to their beautiful blooms. Their woven foliage is also a great habitat for beneficial insects such as ladybugs.

Pinching in the Cutting Garden

If you’re growing a cutting garden and not pinching your plants, you could be missing out on a lot of flower power! Cut flower gardener Melissa Strauss has some steps you can follow to maximize the number of blooms you can harvest this year. Cutting gardens bring so much joy, both to the life of the gardener and to anyone who receives the gift of a home-grown floral arrangement. It’s so nice to be able to gather a beautiful bouquet straight from the backyard or the side yard, in my case. I won’t say that it saves money over purchasing flowers from the supermarket, but there is a satisfaction in growing your own that the grocery store can’t match. A problem that many gardeners run into is the volume of flowers that bloom for each seed they plant. It can be frustrating to plant what feels like a hundred seeds only to end up with one flower for each seed you planted. It’s a lot of work, and if the payoff is disappointing, you might just decide to go back to grocery store flowers and save yourself the labor. What if I told you that there is a simple trick to making your plants produce significantly more flowers? You don’t need to plant more seeds; you can do this one simple thing, and you’ll end up with a far more bountiful harvest. That one thing is pinching, and it doesn’t hurt one bit. Let’s talk about pinching your plants to maximize the number of blooms this season. Pinching is a simple pruning technique that flower growers use to increase the number of blooms each plant produces. It applies to other plants in the garden as well. It’s also commonly called tipping. It involves removing the top of the central stem, either by hand or with a small tool, such as hand pruners. This pruning technique encourages fuller, bushier growth. More growth and more branches mean that there are more places for your plants to set buds. It can also extend the bloom time, leading to more flowers over a longer span of time. Additionally, it increases air circulation, helping reduce the occurrence of fungal diseases. When plants are young, they apply their energy to root development and upward growth. Those with a branching nature will eventually begin to branch out, but it usually doesn’t happen until the plant is already setting buds. Pinching speeds up this process. By removing the very top of the plant (apical bud) just above the next node down. This is where the next set of leaves grows from. The plant takes this as an instruction to apply energy elsewhere. It’s similar to what happens when you deadhead flowers. The plant understands that there is no more growth there to support, so it moves on. While the plant ultimately continues its upward growth, this redirection of energy signals causes it to begin branching. It sends nutrients to the lateral buds, which then begin to grow. You will notice a few days to a few weeks later that those lateral buds begin to grow, and the leaves at that node may begin to die off. The objective is to create a bushier plant with increased branching right from the start. This way, the plant will be sturdier than if the branching starts to occur farther up the stem, making it top-heavy. Pinching will ultimately result in shorter, stronger plants with more branches and more blooms. They will be more vigorous and stand up better to inclement weather and wind. In general, it’s a good thing to do even for plants you don’t intend to harvest flowers from because it creates a more attractive form. It’s important to note that pinching delays bloom time. It can also result in slightly smaller flowers, but in my experience, it’s not a significant difference.

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Verbena Bonariensis

Verbenas are purple-flowered plants with immense value in ornamental, pollinator, and herb gardens. Tall verbena is a hardy specimen that sometimes escapes cultivation. Learn how to cultivate it and manage its spread with seasoned grower Jerad Bryant.Easy-spreading plants are incredibly valuable in the home garden. You won’t have to fuss over their soil quality, their nutrient needs, or how moist they are. They’ll thrive whether you cater to them or not! Verbena bonariensis, or Brazilian vervain, is one such plant that spreads rapidly, readily, and without help from gardeners. You’ll spend more time pulling up its volunteer seedlings than you will caring for it! An herbaceous perennial, it’ll grow in the same spot from year to year and self-sow at the end of the growing season. With two spreading strategies, this clumping wildflower is ideal for wild, open spaces. Let it fill empty cracks and crevices of your flower beds, or have it roam freely between your vegetables and lure pollinators to your crops. Verbena bonariensis is a clump-forming perennial with long, wiry stems. It stays low to the ground early in the growing season, then it sprouts tall-reaching flowering stems to attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds in late spring and summer. Native to Brazil and Argentina, this vervain thrives in warm regions throughout these countries. It sprouts amongst tropical and subtropical trees, shrubs, and similar perennials. Though native to South America, it’s popular as an ornamental garden species, and its weedy tendencies allow it to escape gardens. This Verbena species has naturalized in the warm, subtropical climates of North America, Asia, Africa, and Australia. It self-sows readily and resprouts from perennial roots in USDA hardiness zones 7 through 11. In colder climates, it grows well as an annual wildflower during the warm months. This is one of many species that thrive on the continent. Many growers confuse it with the similar Brazilian type, V. brasiliensis. Though these South American verbenas are gorgeous and hardy, they are aggressive spreaders in the U.S. There are similar options native to the country that thrive in home gardens. Consider mixing Verbena bonariensis with native species like hoary and blue vervains. Verbena bonariensis sprouts clumps of rosettes in early spring. The leaves are deep green on top and gray-green underneath, with serrated margins. As the days lengthen and warm in spring, spongy, square stems emerge from the rosettes. They reach two to four feet tall and sprout flower clusters on their tips. The flowers are small but mighty! They’re full of nectar and pollen, and they attract a wealth of beneficial insects and pollinators. The tiny blossoms are light pink-purple; they sprout from dark pink tubes to create a lovely, contrasting effect. After flowering, the pollinated blooms form many seeds that fall to the ground in the fall and winter. These seeds sprout into volunteer seedlings that will flower the following spring. The main plant will enter a winter dormancy, conserving its energy in its roots and crown.

9 Beautiful Columbine Varieties for Shade Gardens

If you have a shady spot in the garden, chances are it warrants a columbine (or many!). The native species and their cultivars, among others, brighten shaded zones with intricate blooms in bold and soft shades, including those prized, tranquil blues. The flowers are also a beacon for hummingbirds and other pollinators. Enjoy versatile columbines to add to your shade collection with gardening expert Katherine Rowe.Like birds in flight as they sway in the breeze, columbine flowers delight the shady border in spring and early summer. Their scientific name (from the Latin aquila for “eagle”) reflects the resemblance of their spurred petals to an eagle’s talon. The common name columbine derives from the Latin “dove.” Their pendant blooms with spurs, petals, and stamens suspend delicately from slender stems. Their easy, effortless grace and light floral forms bring detailed ornament with a rugged perennial foundation. Columbines emerge after cold winters with fresh leaves and soon-to-follow flowers. The nodding blooms range from rich red and yellow to soft blues, purples, and pinks. Hummingbirds frequent the tubular spurs for nectar, and birds feed on the seeds in the fall. In addition to the flowers are attractive compound leaves, lobed and mounding. With species native to North America and their many varieties, columbine flowers are fit for woodlands, rock gardens, cottage gardens, and native, pollinator, and wildflower plantings. They grow beautifully in the shaded border and in pots, adding high ornament and delicate appeal. While they tolerate varying exposures, the following columbine varieties brighten the shade garden with their own undeniable style.Columbine belongs to the ranunculus family (Ranunculaceae) with buttercups, clematis, hellebore, and larkspur. They grow well in climates with cold winters and mild summers, with about 60 to 70 Aquilegia species in the northern hemisphere. Flowers have five sepals (forming the calyx), interior petals, and showy spurs. The short-lived perennials naturalize in their optimal growing conditions through underground stems and reseeding. Species columbine varieties grow easily from seed and reseed in optimal conditions (but aren’t weedy or aggressive). Direct sow in late winter or in the fall to overwinter and provide cold stratification. Columbine is a cold-climate specimen and benefits from a cold period of 30 days or more to germinate. Scatter seeds on the soil surface and cover lightly with soil. With a natural habitat along woodland edges, clearings, and riverbanks, columbine grows best in moderately moist, well-drained soils. The hearty and adaptable perennials tolerate varying conditions, but regular moisture shows the most vigorous growth and flowering. They thrive in dappled shade, though many adapt to varying exposures. Protect them from intense afternoon sun to avoid burn. The benefit of light shade also extends flowering. Columbine is semi-evergreen and retains its basal leaves unless temperatures are too cold or too hot, when plants enter dormancy until temperatures level off. Cut back worn or tired foliage in mid to late summer for a fresh flush, and leave it standing for its handsome greenery until heavy frost. As a bonus, foliage is deer and rabbit-resistant.

9 Award-Winning Geranium Varieties to Plant This Spring

Hardy geraniums (those softly mounding perennials with cupped blooms) are durable and offer years of easy color. Award-winning geranium varieties bring the highest performance and ornament, all in an easygoing, adaptable package. Gardening expert Katherine Rowe explores prized geranium varieties to bring the biggest appeal to the landscape and to pollinators, too.Hardy geranium, or cranesbill, features softly mounding, trailing stems and saucers of delicate, deep blue-purple blooms. Flowering begins in spring and, for many prized varieties, continues through frost. In dark to light periwinkle and magenta, violet, white, and pink, the species and their cultivars are a highlight in the border (and we should grow more of them). Not only are hardy geraniums ornamental, but they’re also a rich source of nectar and pollen for pollinators, especially bees. And they’re easy-care, adaptable perennials with few maintenance needs. Their leafy forms and rich blooms soften the border, container, window box, and raised bed arrangement. Let stems trail over a low wall or comingle with neighboring perennials. The palmate, semi-evergreen leaves are attractive year-round, even when not in flower. From gray-green to purple-blotched, the leaves bring dynamic visual interest. Enjoy the graceful beauty of a durable perennial by selecting award-winning geranium varieties.True geraniums (Geranium spp.) differ from zonal or annual types, which are in the same Geraniaceae family but a different species (Pelargonium spp.). While they share the common name of the hardy genus, the tender, annual types have different forms, flowering, and growing requirements. Hardy geraniums are tough and cold hardy, while tender geraniums are frost-sensitive outside of USDA zones 10-11. Geranium spp. (cranesbill) are hardy in USDA zones 3-8. There are nearly 300 species and a sea of cultivars and hybrids. Some cranesbills bloom in spring and early summer, while others last into autumn. They naturalize under optimal conditions, spreading by rhizome and some by seed, but aren’t weedy, aggressive, or competitive with neighboring plants. Many hybrids are sterile, with a long flowering season without seed production. Hardy geraniums are adaptable but grow best in organically rich, well-draining soils with even moisture. Most benefit from shearing after flowering to promote a flush of new growth. But these low-maintenance perennials don’t require deadheading to bloom. Let leaves remain in the fall for a flash of rich green in the frosty garden. As a bonus, deer and rabbits find their texture and aroma unappealing. In hot climates, geraniums benefit from shade protection from the afternoon sun.

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Peruvian Lily

Peruvian lily from the Alstroemeria group of plants is a perennial with stunning flowers that last long as a garden and cut flower. Once you have the care down, they can be multiplied each year for a continuous supply. Kevin Espiritu will take you through the steps to grow these pretty flowers.Alstroemeria is a beautiful Peruvian lily in many colors, sure to delight and please the most uptight acquaintances. It can be grown in the ground or in containers, and it multiplies over time. That means you can have unlimited lilies! Simply divide them in spring, and propagate. With fairly easy care, members of the Alstroemeria genus are a lovely sight in the garden and are fun to grow. Though you could buy this popular cut flower as a bouquet, why not grow a passel or pretties yourself and have ready-made gifts for your nearest and dearest all year long?The Alstroemeria lily was named after the Swedish botanist Clas Alströmer, who brought the seeds to Europe. Recognized by its upside-down, twisty leaves, this feature is how the Peruvian lily flower came to be associated with the rollercoaster ride that is friendship: the ups and downs, twists and turns that the most devoted friends stick through. How to Grow The care this plant requires is well worth the effort when you see those gorgeous blooms opening to the sun. The look on your best friend’s face when you present this gift will be well worth taking a picture of so you can make fun of the expression in the future. Light A shot of pink colored flowering plants alongside the same flower with a different color in the background, all basking in bright sunlight outdoors Select a location that has full sun or dappled sunlight. If your soil temperatures soar above 70°F (21°C), pick a spot where it will be protected from the sun in the afternoon. Otherwise, go for a full-sun area (dappled sun can also be a tolerable choice). This gives you the best chance for blooms. Water Water stream pouring out of silver watering can in the vegetable garden. Keep the soil moist but ensure the flowers do not get waterlogged. At first planting, keep the rhizomes well-watered until the first shoots appear. After that, a one-inch deep watering every week until well established should be fine. Too much water can create conditions where fungal diseases can proliferate. Therefore, keep the soil somewhat moist, but do not let your lilies get waterlogged. If there has been regular rainfall, additional water may not be necessary. Container-grown plants may need more water than in-ground plantings. Soil Use an organic, well-draining soil that can be amended with perlite. Start with the ground cleared of all debris. A soil of 70% organic material and 30% perlite is a good idea if you have heavy clay soil. However, this might not be necessary as long as the soil provides enough air and excellent drainage. To protect against summer’s heat, add a three-inch deep ring of mulch, either bark or compost, around the base without placing it directly on the plant. In areas where winters are cold, apply a couple of inches of mulch in fall for root protection through frosts. Temperature Ideal temperatures for these plants will depend on the season. Autumn and spring are usually the best times for planting, before the soil gets hot. In early spring when the temperatures are changing, a greenhouse can be handy for avoiding scorched leaves. You can ventilate and heat as needed whenever humidity rises above 85%. You can dig up your tubers and overwinter them in regions with constant subfreezing winter, or simply grow them in containers and move them indoors. Fertilizer Person pouring liquid fertilizer into a small measuring cap with a green plant in the background. Use a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every week when blooming begins. When your plants have reached two years of age, it’s a good time to supplement the soil with nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium during the growing season. Pay close attention to your soil’s pH levels; higher than seven will result in iron and manganese deficiencies, and a yellowing of leaves. For both in-ground and container lilies, feed with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every week when blooming begins. Cease at the end of the bloom period, and do not apply during dormancy, in late fall through winter. Maintenance Trim off stems of dead flowers or diseased foliage. It’s a good idea to trim the stems of dead flowers and save the plant’s energy for making new ones. Otherwise, not much pruning is needed. Good thing, too, so I can save my energy for gazing at these glorious blooms from the comfort of my porch swing. Of course, if any damaged or diseased leaves crop up, remove them as needed. Propagation The plant can be propagated by seed of division. You can propagate using two methods. By seed is one way. Another way is to dig up the Peruvian lily bulbs and divide the rhizomes in fall. Cut the plants six inches above ground about ten days before you intend to dig them up. A one-year-old plant may yield up to 15 rhizomes, a two-year-old up to 25. In the fall, you can overwinter your tubers if you’d like. Having a space to store roots in freezing weather is great for gardeners outside the plant’s hardiness range. Put the tubers in a box with coconut coir or peat moss and leave them in a cool, dry place. Then, replant the tubers in spring. Common Problems While the Peruvian lily is a fairly hardy plant, there are a few common issues. Here are the ones you want to keep an eye out for. Growing Problems Overwatering and temperature imbalances will result in growth issues. If you live in an area with very cold winters, and you don’t protect or remove tubers in fall, your alstroemerias may die. Those tubers can be stored over winter, or covered with a thick layer of mulch for winter protection. Overwatering is the number one way to put your Peruvian lilies in peril. This invites pests and diseases which can weaken or kill your flowers. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. In rainy weather, don’t add extra irrigation. Pests A close-up of a leaf surface showing small brown thrips scattered across the green foliage. Thrips, aphids, spider mites, slugs and snails are the common pests of the plant. Most of the diseases your Peruvian lilies contract can be carried by thrips and aphids, so do your best to control these populations to prevent infection. Both pests feed on the sap of plants, causing overall weakening of the plant and yellowing and/or curled leaves. Insecticidal soap can be used to treat these pests. Spider mites may attack your lilies, and drink the plant’s juices as well. If you see masses of tiny mites on leaves or notice tightly woven webs, wipe these off with a damp cloth, and follow up with a misting of insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs and snails may also feed on leaves when the soil remains moist for too long. In an especially rainy spring or summer, there’s no getting away from them. You can hand pick them off your plants at night or trap them with slug bait or a beer trap. Diseases A close-up of a plant's roots affected by a fungus, showing discolored, decaying roots and dark soil. Fungal and bacterial diseases cause severe damage to the plant. Pythium root rot causes wilting, stunted growth, and weak stems that collapse. This occurs when the soil is heavy and moist for long periods. A clean bed with one part composted pine bark mixed with four parts of soil is a good start. Allowing the soil to dry out may also give the plant a chance to recover. Remove and dispose of any affected plants. Rhizoctonia root rot causes wilted leaves and dried stems that don’t respond to watering. Double-check that the soil is well-draining. You may need to improve this by working some compost into the top ten inches. Get rid of the infected ones and concentrate on keeping the healthy ones healthy. Botrytis blight is better known as gray mold. It shows up during the warmer, damp days as furry, gray-brown spores. They transmit on wet plants, so keep space between them for air. Also, direct irrigation away from stems and below the leaves and flowers, and remove any debris or damaged plants. Diseases like tomato spotted wilt virus and mosaic virus cause patterns of lines and spots on foliage, and they have no treatment. Not only will you have to destroy the affected plants, you’d be wise to disinfect your gardening tools with a diluted bleach solution as well.

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Passion Flower

The passion flower (Passiflora incarnata) blooms with a gorgeous flower pollinators love. Sarah Jay will go through the detailed guide and best-growing tips to get the most out of this rampant vine.The passion flower is strange, wondrous, and native to the whole southeast United States. It’s a host for fritillary butterflies, and a great source of sweet, delicious fruit called may pops. It’s perfect for fenced and trellised areas of your landscape. But Passiflora incarnata has a tendency to get out of hand and spreads rapidly if it’s planted in an area where it gets everything it needs to thrive. While this isn’t always an issue for gardeners, those who like a lazy garden may find it creeping into nearby beds. All that being said, it’s a lovely vining perennial that provides stunning summer views year after year. Chances are you’ll love it once you add it to your garden. Passifora incarnata is the scientific name for purple passion vine, purple passion flower, passionflower, holy trinity flower, apricot vine, and may pops. The purple passion flower is a fast-growing vining perennial that reaches 20 feet or more. Both fruits and flowers are edible and many food items are made from them, like passion flower extract. How to Grow Now that we’ve discussed a bit about Passiflora itself, let’s discuss how to care for it and reap the benefits of its lovely fruit. Light This flower prefers full sun exposure with at least 6 to 8 hours of sun per day. Six to eight hours of full sun is best for passion flower. Partial shade or afternoon shade may be required for plants in areas where direct sunlight in late summer is scorching. I’ve seen vines growing out in the open exposed to full sunlight all day, though. So, how established and prolific the plant is will factor into how well it can take being planted in direct sunlight. Water Close-up of a watering can pouring water onto young plants with elegant, arching stems and smooth, rounded green leaves with delicate veins. Ensure the soil has dried out before watering again. Purple passion flower does best in containers when it is given a lot of water and then allowed to dry out before watering again. In the ground, that means local rain is often enough to keep it going. In times of drought, water a couple of times a week to keep the soil moist. If you over winter the plant, gradually stop watering and trim it back when the foliage dies. In the spring, when new growth appears, resume a normal watering schedule. Water in the morning before the sun is fully out. Moderate humidity is maintained when there is enough plant matter growing around the soil to provide it. Soil Use a good quality garden or potting soil that drains well. A good quality garden or potting soil works for passion flowers. Make sure the root masses have access to well-drained soil. These vines have shallow roots. A thick layer of organic mulch helps the plant flourish through winter and emerge in early spring. Although passion flower vines prefer sandy, well-draining, fertile soil, they also grow in heavy clay soil. To develop your own mix, try two parts loam, two parts peat, and one part perlite or sand. Most species in the Passiflora genus appreciate neutral to acidic soils as well. Temperature The flowers will thrive in hardiness zone 6 to 10. This plant is native to the southeastern US and is hardy in USDA zone 5 through 9. It handles lows down to 18°F (-8°C), and highs in triple digits. As long as you give it time to get established, you’re gold! The root structure should have enough time to establish itself to survive through the hot summer and cold months, even when the showy leaves die away. If you’re growing in a container, bring it in when winter arrives. Fertilizing Close-up of a woman's hand with NPK fertilizers on a blurred background of a pink bag of fertilizers. Fertilizers are granular and consist of many small round balls of a delicate pink hue. They can benefit from a high-phosphorus, slow-release fertilizer every 4 months. While fertilizing isn’t necessary, especially in its native range, you can provide high-phosphorus fertilizers to help the passion fruit and its unusual flowers form. Do not overfeed, as this will raise nutrient levels, which attracts unwanted insects that feed on your vines. A slow-release fertilizer applied every four months during the growing season is more than enough. Maintenance Pruning helps promote new growth. Prune your plant just before spring arrives or in early fall, depending on the region you live in. To bring an older vine back to life or promote next year’s growth, pruning is necessary. You can also prune to train young passionflower plants on a trellis or other support. Prune dead plant material. Then, remove all stems except ones with plenty of buds. As a general rule, do not remove more than a third of the plant, otherwise you risk killing it. If you know your vine dies back in colder months, cut it to the ground in early fall to a third of its size. You may wonder if deadheading the blooms is necessary. It is not! Flowers will bloom and fade on their own, and your passion plants will form fruits. Removal of the fruits before they fall to the earth can help control the plants’ spread, though they’re only ripe when they fall naturally. Pruning away suckers from the base of your vines prevents spreading too. Propagation This perennial can be propagated using its cuttings or seeds, which is often more difficult. It is possible to propagate via seed, but passion flower seed germination is difficult. The easiest ways to prop your passion flower vines are by layering and cuttings. Mound layer a vine by taking the leaves off of a woody stem and burying it under the soil. Place a stone or pin on top to keep it in place. Water the stem section well; it should root in two to three weeks. To propagate via cuttings, take six-inch sections from mature plants in fall. Root the cuttings in the soil you use to cultivate your vines. Using rooting hormone isn’t necessary, but it ensures each cutting roots. In about three months you’ll have new growth indicating your vines are ready for the garden.

Silver Dollar Plant (Lunaria Annua)

Learn how to grow the silver dollar plant, or Lunaria annua, in your garden. The silvery seed pods will add a new level of beauty to your garden and are sought after for floral art. Expert Kevin Espiritu will guide you through the steps to grow and care for this interesting annual.Many gardeners hate weeds. They will curse them under their breath as they drag the roots from the soil and toss them onto the compost pile with relish. In her well-known book “To Kill a Mockingbird”, Harper Lee describes Miss Maudie’s reaction to a blade of nutgrass with sufficient illustration: “She swooped down upon it with a tin tub and subjected it to blasts from beneath with a poisonous substance she said was so powerful it’d kill us all if we didn’t stand out of the way.” The silver dollar plant is one of those plants that gardeners tend to see as a weed. And it is indeed an invasive plant species in Virginia, Michigan, and Oregon. While it is lovely, if you live in one of these states, try planting alternatives that add the same interest to your garden. Now, let’s discuss caring for the silver dollar plant, and how to manage and cultivate one in your garden. Not all weeds are created equal. Take the Lunaria annua, also known as the money plant, the silver dollar plant, the honesty plant, and the moonwort. Because of its rather prolific nature, this plant is sometimes called a perennial. Lunaria annua, or silver dollar plant, is native to southeastern Europe and western Asia, especially in regions like the Balkans and Turkey. It thrives in woodland edges, clearings, and damp, shady areas, typically favoring well-drained, fertile soils. Although not native, Lunaria annua has spread widely beyond its origin, especially in temperate regions, due to its ornamental appeal and ability to naturalize easily. This annual or biennial plant is prized for its vibrant purple flowers and unique, translucent seed pods, which resemble silver coins and are often used in dried floral arrangements. The very aspects that lead some to consider it a weed can be very useful to a gardener, especially one with children to introduce to the gardening world. They are easy to grow, forgiving if neglected (almost to a fault), and beautiful to behold. And according to lore, having a patch of it may keep your kids honest! This flowering plant can grow 24 to 36 inches in height. In its first year, it mainly sprouts heart-shaped foliage, but in its second year, it brings fragrant lavender flowers and the famous silvery seed pods that give this plant its name. If you’re unfamiliar with these fascinating plants, or even if you know them and usually give them wide berth for their weed association, give them a consideration as you read through this guide on silver dollar plant care. However, note that they are invasive in Virginia, Oregon, and Michigan, and your garden may benefit from removal and replacement with a similar alternative. In the maintenance section of this piece, we’ll discuss how to keep the silver dollar plant in bounds.