Gardening

Asters

Growing asters is a great way to get started in flower gardening. Asters are very easy to grow and a beautiful addition to a summer garden. Kevin Espiritu will take you through all the steps to grow these beautiful flowers.You may already know that growing asters in your garden invites numerous pollinators, who flit from the star-like aster to tomato and pepper flowers. In addition to that, did you know there are around 170 species? These species are mostly relegated to the eastern hemisphere of the world, which encompasses a wide array of climates and conditions. That means there’s definitely an aster you can grow where you live! They’re a fantastic addition to the garden, especially in summer and early fall. So let’s talk about asters and figure out how to grow them!The gorgeous aster is a fantastic low-effort addition to your garden. Its name originates from the Greek word for star, but it also goes by many other names, with the September flower, Michaelmas daisy, and frost flower being just a few of them.These flowers originate all over eastern Europe and Asia, with some species native to North America, where they bloom in varying vibrant shades. They cover most of the Northern Hemisphere, apart from Africa and the lower part of the Americas.Asters vary in color, size, and ease of care depending on the variety that you grow. You’ll never find an aster flower with bright orange or yellow petals – they come in blue, purple, white, red, or pink. But no matter the color, it’s easy to identify them by their bright yellow center composed of many flowerets. In the floral industry, asters are one of the most popular flowers to grow and sell. This is due to their versatility and long life once cut. They’ll last over a week before wilting. They’re also great for gardens that are designed to attract many different species of pollinators. Asters are called Michaelmas daisies because they bloom in September, the same month that the celebration of the archangel Michael occurs in the early Christian pantheon. Through the aster flowers, Christians see the fire of Michael’s flaming sword. Many of the asters native to North America have been removed from the Aster genus and split into several genera, including Ampelaster, Symphyotrichum, Ionactis, Eurybia, Seriocarpus, Doellingeria, and Oclemena. Asters come in many varieties. When you’re just starting out, it’s hard to tell the difference between them all – but it matters because many grow much taller than others and have very different flower appearances. The two most common types of aster are New York Asters and New England Asters. Not surprisingly, they’re also hard to differentiate. The New York aster has both tall and short varieties, but they tend to clump in the two to four-feet range. Some New York aster reaches upwards of four feet tall! The stems are thinner than New England aster, and the leaves are usually smoother. New England asters grow to be around three to four feet in height, though you can get varieties that grow either shorter or taller. In contrast to New York aster, they have hefty stems with leaves that are covered in hair. The flowers are much denser as well.

Bleeding Heart Flower Care

Thinking of adding some bleeding heart flowers to your garden, but aren't sure where to start? Bleeding hearts are a shade garden favorite and can grow across many different hardiness zones. In this article, gardening expert Paige Foley explains everything you need to know about bleeding heart flowers and their care.The beautiful pinks, whites and reds of bleeding heart flowers have captured the hearts of many gardeners for years. The heart shaped blooms hang from arched stems like lockets on a necklace. Their low maintenance and ease of establishment are perfect for beginner gardens and experienced gardeners as well. Bleeding heart is a member of the papaveraceae family or better known as the poppy family. They bloom in early spring, shortly after the tulips bloom. They last until early summer but once temperatures become too hot and sunlight is too intense they will go dormant. Bleeding Hearts simply can’t handle the summer heat. If you are looking for an earlier blooming perennial that loves shady conditions, bleeding heart is an excellent choice. Now that you’ve decided to grow bleeding hearts, how do you grow and maintain them? In this article we will take a deeper look at the bleeding heart plants and their care. Ready to learn more? Let’s dig in!Bleeding heart is a cottage garden staple, this early bloom perennial has a unique bloom pattern that sets it apart from all other plants. They stand out from the crowd and everyone knows them for their heart shaped blooms. They have captured the hearts of many gardeners for years. This plant goes by many names. Some other common names are chinese pants, lady’s locket, lady-in-a-bath and tearing heart. They are one of the first plants to bloom in the spring and the blooms are short-lived. They can’t handle the summer heat and quickly become dormant when temperatures get too hot. Many people panic when this happens because the plant looks as if it’s dying. The plant has finished its life cycle of gathering nutrients and has begun to store them. Bleeding hearts are a shorter perennial and only reach 2 to 3 feet in height and width. Keep in mind that it will take them three to four years to reach full mature height. Because of their lower stature, they are excellent in lower flower beds, containers and along the foundation of buildings. One of the most charming and elegant blooms in any garden is the bleeding heart. They have a unique heart shaped bloom with a teardrop beneath that catches the eyes and hearts of many. Their blooms hang like pedants on arched stems. They flower in pinks, whites and reds from early spring to summer. If this is your first year planting them, chances are you may not see the blooms the first year. If they are producing lush, green foliage but not producing blooms, wait until the following year and blooms should appear. Bleeding hearts attract pollinators like bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. Plant in a pollinator garden to add a woodland charm and to give pollinators an early bloomer to enjoy. Sunlight can affect how much and often they bloom. If exposed to too much sun, their leaves will yellow and blooms will be far and few between. We will talk about the sunlight requirements a little later in the article.Bleeding hearts are a member of the poppy family and formerly the genus Dicentra spectabilis. In recent years, they changed the genus to Lamprocapnos spectabilis. They are often still referred to by their old name which can be confusing. They are native to northern China and Japan and were brought to England by plant explorers in 1846. Bleeding hearts are award winning plants and a number of varieties have won the Royal Horticultural Award of Garden Merit.

Narcissus Flowers

Narcissus flowers are beautiful, low-maintenance plants. For a beautiful daffodil display in spring, get planting in the fall. Lorin Nielsen will share our best daffodil care tips here and provide a full growing guide.We all love the early flowers of the spring months. Start in the fall to produce those gorgeous displays. Narcissus flowers are high on that list. Daffodils, jonquils, and narcissus are all from the same genus of plant, and are easy plants to care for. These produce bright, showy flowers in sunny spots, delighting the eyes. And a few even produce a sweet scent, too! Excited to see narcissus flowers springing up after a cold winter? You’re not alone. Read on to discover exactly how to have this prolific spring surprise appear!The genus Narcissus covers a lot of ground and includes a wide number of plants. The American Daffodil Society has established thirteen separate divisions of narcissus. These divisions are usually based on the shape of the flower, as it’s the easiest identifier.Narcissus as a species is native to regions in Europe and North Africa, with a primary concentration in Spain and Portugal. These bulbous plants thrive in a variety of habitats, ranging from meadows and woodlands to rocky slopes and riverbanks, depending on the species. They are particularly well-suited to Mediterranean climates, characterized by wet winters and dry summers. Due to their striking blooms and adaptability, they have been widely cultivated and naturalized in many parts of the world over time.Narcissus flowers have three basic components. At the back of the flower is the hypanthium, sometimes referred to as the floral tube. This is the point at which the flower joins the stem. Tepals, or the petals that form the base of the flower, sit low on the perianth (base) of the flower. Finally in the center is the corona, which forms the well-known tube or trumpet-like shape. Most people identify narcissus, daffodils, or jonquils solely from that corona. Some varieties are more distinctively-shaped than others, but they’re all beautiful! Miniature cultivars can fall into any of the American Daffodil Society’s divisions. These are usually hybrids or crossbreeds which have been cultivated for their size. The divisions currently in use include the following list. Trumpet daffodils: These have a large corona or “trumpet” in the center of the flower with petals as long as the outer tepals, with one flower per stem. Large-cupped daffodils: One flower to a stem, large corona which is more than a third of the length of the outer tepals but shorter. Small-cupped daffodils: One flower per stem, small corona which is less than a third the length of the outer tepals. Double daffodils: One or more flowers per stem, has doubling of the outer perianth tepals or the corona or both. Triandrus daffodils: Two or more flowers per stem, has the distinct look of Narcissus triandrus with slightly backward-flexed perianth tepals. Cyclamineus daffodils: One flower per stem, perianth tepals bent backwards from the corona, distinct Narcissus cyclamineus look. Jonquilla daffodils: One to five flowers per stem typical, corona may be cup, funnel, or flared in shape, wider than long, and may be scented. Tazetta daffodils: Three to twenty flowers per thick stem, usually fragrant, with perianth tepals curling slightly forward. Poeticus daffodils: white perianth tepals with a disc-shaped or short corona, has characteristics of Narcissus poeticus. Bulbocodium hybrids: One flower per stem usually, extremely large corona with minimal perianth tepals Split-cupped collar or papillon daffodils: Two variations (collar or papillon) of daffodil with split corona rather than tubed. Other daffodil cultivars: Narcissi that don’t fall into the above categories, usually inter-category hybrids. Daffodils distinguished by botanical name only: Species, wild variants, and wild hybrids found outside established gardens.

Impatiens Walleriana

Brightly-flowered Impatiens walleriana is perfect in shaded beds or as a partial-light ground cover. We've got the top growing tips, and Kevin Espiritu will show you how to grow these busy lizzies.A favorite flower for many households, Impatiens walleriana is wildly popular in the UK and US. As a ground cover, it creates a stunning, flower-dappled display. It also makes an excellent houseplant, growing easily if you give it the right conditions. Impatiens has many crazy names like busy lizzie or sultana. It’s even sometimes called the “patience plant”, although in an ironic way – more on that later! It’s so popular that growers have cultivated several shades of flowers to choose from. Pink, red, white, orange, lilac, or bi-colored blooms appear to much delight. Native to East Africa, impatiens isn’t very demanding. It’ll thrive with the right care and light conditions. Often, it does particularly well in shaded or partly-shaded locations. We’ve gathered together everything you’ll need to know to grow this phenomenal plant. With a little patience, you’ll have impatiens galore!In frost-free regions, busy Lizzie is an herbaceous perennial. Elsewhere, it’s considered a half-hardy annual. Its natural preference is a Mediterranean climate type. The plant is part of the Balsaminaceae, which is comprised of flowering plants of the Impatiens and Hydrocera species.The name “walleriana” was crafted to honor Horace Waller (1833-1896). A contemporary of Victorian explorer David Livingstone, Waller was a British missionary. He spent much time in Africa, and was known as an anti-slavery activist in that era. It was introduced to the western world by Dr. John Kirk. Another contemporary of Livingstone, Kirk initially believed Impatiens walleriana to be indigenous to Zanzibar. It was later discovered throughout eastern Africa. The term “impatiens” is a bit ironic and contrasts with its common name of “patience plant”. The scientific name of Impatiens species originates from the plant’s impatience to spread its seeds. The lightest touch will cause an impatiens seed pod to pop open and send its seeds flying everywhere! Needless to say, it’s quite good at self-sowing, even if it’s not very patient.Impatiens walleriana is a popular flowering plant prized for its vibrant, colorful blooms and lush foliage. The plant typically grows to about eight to twenty-four inches in height. It features glossy, ovate leaves that provide an attractive backdrop to its flowers, which come in various colors. It blooms prolifically from spring through fall, adding continuous color to borders, containers, and hanging baskets. Sometimes referred to as shade impatiens, Impatiens walleriana is one of many flowering plants in its species. Some 500 species fall into the Balsaminaceae family, with this and New Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkeri) being some of the best known. Other synonyms for this species include Impatiens giorgii, Impatiens holstii, Impatiens lujai, and Impatiens sultani. These are all scientific names that have fallen out of common classification use.To plant Impatiens walleriana, begin by selecting a location with partial to full shade, as these plants prefer indirect sunlight. Prepare the soil by loosening it and mixing in compost or organic matter to improve drainage and nutrient content. Space the plants about eight to twelve inches apart to ensure proper airflow and prevent overcrowding. Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball, place the plant in the hole, and backfill it with soil, gently firming it around the base. Water thoroughly after planting to help establish the roots. Mulching around the plants can help retain soil moisture and reduce weed growth.

Bachelor’s Buttons

Looking for easy flowers? Bachelor's buttons come in a range of shades in blue, pink, and purple! Lorin Nielsen explains these easy annuals and provides all the tips you need to grow them for a beautiful wild garden.One of my favorite flowers, bachelor’s buttons, is sometimes called cornflowers. And from there, the color “cornflower blue” derives its name! Also called basket flowers, blue bonnets, blue cap, and many other names, this popular plant is a hardy annual. It blooms in an array of color from early spring through the fall months. Leave some of the spent flowers on the plant, and it’ll happily reseed its bed and grow again next year. But what are bachelor’s buttons, and are they all blue? Do they prefer sunlight or shade? How much water do they need? We’ll cover all this and more today as we explore the world of the bachelor’s buttons!Botanically, it’s called Centaurea cyanus and commonly called bachelor button, blue cornflower, or bachelor’s buttons. This name refers to old folklore. Young love-struck men would wear them on their lapels. If the early flowering bloom faded fast, it was thought the object of their desire didn’t love them.Bachelor’s button has a long list of names, including unusual ones like blue blob, corn bottle, gogglebuster, and hurt sickle. One name, cornflower, originated from the tendency of these plants to grow as native plants in European cornfields. It is also found naturally in areas of the Middle East. While declining in its natural habitat, the growth of this plant worldwide has expanded via gardens designed for cut flowers. Many varieties are blue. However, bachelor’s buttons can be pink, purple, and white as well. This annual’s self-sowing tendency has caused them to become listed on the USDA’s list of introduced, invasive, and noxious plants. North Carolina has become so plagued by it that selling its seeds or live plants is prohibited in that state! Try planting in a container if you live in this plant’s invasive area.Grey-green or silvery-green slender foliage with long, lanceolate leaves forms the base upon which bright flowers form. It can reach up to three feet in height and can sprawl out one to two feet wide. The greyish or silvery tint is actually caused by fine white hairs on the leaves. Their edible flowers can be used in salads as a touch of added color. Petals are often dried and added to loose tea blends for a pop of color. In addition, the flowers are a historical pigment or dye source for painting or dyeing fabric.To plant bachelor’s buttons, choose a spot with full sun and well-draining soil. Loosen the soil to a depth of six to eight inches and mix in compost to enrich it. Sow the seeds directly outdoors after the last frost, spacing them six to eight inches apart. Cover the seeds lightly with about a quarter of an inch of soil, and water gently to keep the soil evenly moist until germination, which usually takes seven to ten days. Once established, the plants require little care, though occasional watering during dry spells will help them thrive.

Jacob’s Ladder

Jacob's ladder plant is an easy to grow, shade loving perennial. Botanically, Polemonium caeruleum, this flowering species has leaves that are set like a ladder. Learn about the best ways to care for this plant with Lorin Nielsen.Once upon a time, Jacob’s ladder was called the “charity plant”, although it shouldn’t be confused with the Mahonia species that also bears that common name. It’s also been called “Greek valerian”, although it’s not a valerian. Confused yet? Jacob’s ladder gets its common name from the ladder-like or pinnate structure of its leafy foliage. In the spring and early summer months, it shoots up slender stalks from which hang clusters of bell-like flowers. A shade-loving variety, it has origins overseas but is often found in the United States in garden cultivation now. It’s such an easy-growing plant that it can even be considered slightly invasive if it’s in the right environment! However, it can be maintained and kept to its beds as well. Let’s delve deep into the world of the Polemonium species, and I’ll tell you all about this beautiful perennial!Two species share the same common name. The one we’re focusing on today, Polemonium caeruleum, is the cultivated variety that can be found at your local garden center. Optimized for garden growing, it’s a highly-desirable burst of color in shadier locations. A related species, Polemonium reptans, is called “false Jacob’s ladder” or “creeping Jacob’s ladder”. Native to the northeastern United States, it is considered a threatened wild plant in some states. Due to its tendency to be very leggy, it’s not ideal in a garden environment.With its origins in the temperate regions of Europe and Asia, Jacob’s ladder is a beautiful addition to any garden. That’s largely why it’s become naturalized in multiple environments worldwide today, including eastern North America! Jacob’s ladder is native to areas of meadowland, woodlands, and grasslands, this shade-loving species derives its name from its pinnate leaves that resemble the rungs of a ladder. It is an excellent low-maintenance plant that is often grown as a deer-resistant flower in many gardens.Growing about 18-24 inches in height, Polemonium caeruleum often reaches a similar width to its height. Some cultivars can become even larger, up to about three feet tall. Most have dark green leaves. The leaves of Jacob’s ladder may be fully, vibrantly green, and lush or may have other colorations. Examples of the variegated varieties are “Stairway To Heaven”, which has cream-colored foliage, or “Bressingham Purple”, which has deep green foliage streaked with dark purple. Jacob’s ladder blooms in the spring to early summer months, often at the same time as allium species and the bleeding heart plant. Bell-shaped flowers hang in clusters from the end of their flower stalks and may range in color from blue to pink, yellow, purple or white. For most of its preferred growing environments, Jacob’s ladder can easily be grown as a perennial. In some locations, it acts as a self-seeding annual. In eastern North America, this plant is perennial.Start by choosing a location that offers partial shade or dappled sunlight. The soil should be well-drained and rich in organic matter; composting the planting area will provide the nutrients necessary for healthy growth. Prepare the site by clearing weeds and loosening the soil to a depth of about 12 inches, creating an ideal environment for the roots to establish. When it comes to planting, spring or early fall are the optimal times to plant Jacob’s ladder. Space the plants about 12-18 inches apart, allowing enough room to spread. Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball and position the plant to level its crown with the soil surface, then backfill and water thoroughly. Mulch around the plants to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Geraniums

A range of bright colors and interesting leaves make geraniums an excellent perennial to include in the garden and in containers. For any part of the garden, whether sunny or shady, and with many types to choose from, geraniums and pelargoniums are a popular choice. Lorin Nielsen will take you through the types and how to grow them.Brightly-colored in shades ranging from common pinks and reds through deep dusky blues and violets, geraniums are a common sight in most gardens today. The term “geranium” itself is a bit misleading, because there’s actually two separate genuses that are considered geraniums. But we’ll go into that in more detail shortly! Whether you are simply looking for a perennial that can create a plethora of bright and wildly-colored flowers or one that smells like cinnamon or spices, you can find a geranium that will suit you. Let’s explore this aromatic and beautiful perennial in detail!There are two types of herbs that are called geraniums: true geraniums, which are part of the Geranium genus, and those in the Pelargonium genus. Both are part of the Geraniaceae family, and are related if not identical. Both of are often confused for one another. The majority of what gardeners consider to be geraniums are actually Pelargonium genus plants. True Geraniums are often referred to as crane’s bill or wild geraniums, and sometimes as hardy geraniums as they’re a bit more cold-resistant. We’ll cover a bit of both here! While geraniums are native to most of the world, pelargonium has its origins in South East Africa, Australia, the Middle East (Turkey in particular), and parts of South Asia. There are many hybrids available now that have been developed in various parts of the world, and these are the more popular varieties sporting bigger and brighter blooms as well as being pest- and disease-resistant.

Creeping Phlox

Phlox flowers are stunning with multiple shades. Whether you choose creeping phlox or mounding phlox, growing them is easy with our guide. Expert Lorin Nielson will show you the steps to growing phlox successfully.In shades of white, pink, red, purple and blue, phlox is an incredibly popular, brilliantly-flowered ornamental. Whether it’s creeping phlox spreading out to become a beautiful ground cover, or a mounding phlox in the garden, these delicate flowers are definitely a sight to behold. The term “phlox” originates with the Greek word for “flame”, likely referencing some of the red shades. However, most phloxes growing wild throughout North America tend towards lighter hues. Let’s explore some of the diversity of phlox species today, as well as go over the best way to ensure you have a proliferation of bright blooms throughout the year!Phlox encompasses several species of annuals and perennials. Some are upright, and others are more low-lying. All can be an excellent ground cover, as they readily self-seed and easily spread on their own. Phlox species are mostly relegated to the prairies and woodlands of North America, but there are some varieties that cover the northern parts of Asia. They thrive in diverse habitats, ranging from alpine tundra to open woodlands and prairies. Most species can be found in temperate regions, with many varieties adapted to specific climates and soil conditions. Phlox is often found in sunny locations with well-drained soil, making it a favorite in wildflower gardens.The stalks of all phlox plants are green when they’re young, and grow woody as they mature. Flowers bloom at variable times, and in different shades from white, to pink, to violet. Many are native plants that host important butterfly and moth pollinators. Phlox plants are perfect for planting on slopes and in rock gardens. They survive in poor soils and cover ground for erosion control. During their blooming period, they’ll provide pops of color. Though they may die back in cold winters, they’ll return again in spring via their spreading and branching roots. There are 67 species in the Polemoniaceae family, all of which are considered to be phlox.

Dianthus

Carnations, sweet William, pinks! Dianthus are fun and useful flowers to grow in a perennial garden. Sweetly scented and available in a range of flower colors, dianthus are easy-going and low-maintenance. Kevin Espiritu will give you all you need to grow them.The best thing about dianthus is you’ll find tons at your local nursery. Each variety is similar but different enough that you have choices. How you incorporate this easy-going variety into your landscape informs the type you choose. They aren’t native to North America, but they’re lovely and provide pollen for insects who stop off at your dianthus flowers as well as your pepper flowers, too. With over 300 species to choose from, chances are there’s one you’ll enjoy. In this piece, we’ll discuss caring for dianthus. We’ll identify some of the 300+ plus varieties, talk about dianthus care, and cover issues that dianthus gardeners might run into. After you’re done reading this, you’ll be fully equipped to add a dash of dianthus to your garden. Dianthus (Dianthus spp.) is a genus of flowering herbaceous perennials, though some are annual or biennial. Some develop woody stems and a shrub-like growth habit. Dianthus flowers are hardy while they’re growing. They’re popular in floral arrangements. They’re perfect in a perennial garden, alongside annual vegetables, and in cottage gardens, too. They were named by the Greek philosopher Theophrastus in the 300s BC. Dianthus is native to Europe and Asia, with a few species hailing from Africa. They also have a history of use in Chinese, Japanese, and Korean medicine to treat mouth and gum diseases, as well as gastrointestinal conditions. All dianthus species have opposite leaves that are simple and green. They reach 10 inches tall to 36 inches tall, and one to two feet wide, depending on the variety. The sometimes-double flowers have five petals and come in arrays of colors and scents. Common varieties have frilled pink to fuschia petals that bloom from early spring to late fall. All self-seed or return annually. Their long roots remain in the soil throughout harsh winters.

Bee Balm Monarda

We all want to encourage pollinators to populate our gardens. After all, without those pollinating insects, we don’t have flowers or produce! And so, to draw beneficial insects to our yards, we tend to use plants like bee balm. But what is bee balm, exactly? It’s a part of the mint family (Lamiaceae), and an awful lot of people grow bee balm… does that mean it’s a mint? Does bee balm do anything more than just look pretty?Bee Balm is just one of the many common names for all Mondarda species. All members of the mint family, bee balm wildflowers attract pollinators and people alike. All are native to southern Canada through the Eastern US. Some species hail as far south as Mexico. If you’re looking to add color to your herb garden, plant bee balm towards the center or rear of your garden space, as they will be taller than most annual herbs, and try growing thyme, basil, parsley, or chives around it. For a burst of added color against the purple or red bee balm, try growing daylilies for a bright yellow, or select a nicely contrasting blue by planting agapanthus. And finally, for nice blends of similar-sized plants, growing black-eyed Susans or echinaceas nearby can make your blooms similar in height, but if you want a lower flower beneath these, try a dwarf phlox along the base to add a spark of brightness beneath the larger blossoms.There are many different varieties of the bee balm Monarda species, and about 50 commercial cultivars commonly available. But an awful lot of bee balm varieties are naturally-growing wildflowers in the United States.

Pampas Grass

Pampas grass is a huge, but stunning grass that produces feathery plumes. We explore its care, keeping it in check, and growing healthy grass. Join Kevin Espiritu as he explains all about this interesting grass.The striking, feathery blooms of pampas grass are prized by floral arrangers and gardeners alike. It’s even been used by float decorators for the annual Tournament of Roses parade in Pasadena, California since the early 1900s! Named for its original home in the grassy plains of Pampas, Argentina, this tall ornamental grass was first introduced to Europe sometime between 1775-1862. It arrived in California in about 1848, going into commercial gardening shortly thereafter, and has become a common sight in coastal areas. In the 1940s, it was even planted to help prevent erosion. But if it’s not kept in check, this tall landscape grass is known to spread like wildfire – and may become a fire hazard itself. Here, you’ll find ways to manage your pampas grass plants and ensure that your plants flourish in garden beds or containers.Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) is also commonly known as tussock grass, cortadera, paina, and pluma. People grow pampas grass as an ornamental privacy screen, a garden border, or as an accent.This feather duster shaped grass is native to the Pampas region of Argentina, South America, and also to Brazil and Chile. It is invasive in much of North America, which is why it’s best for many growing pampas grass to do so in pots and raised beds. This ornamental grass is a perennial evergreen year-round in every temperate zone. In those regions with cold winters, it loses its evergreen status. The green leaves of pampas grass are razor-sharp, and can easily slice – so watch out! In spring, lovely seed heads in the form of feathery plumes emerge from the grass clump. As the wind scatters seeds, they germinate, rooting deep into the earth. Pampas grass is dioecious, and it’s difficult to tell which plants are male or female until the plumes emerge. Female flowers are much wider and flayed at the sides. Female pampas grass catches pollen from the more compact male flowers via wind and insects. Those who want to grow new plants should purchase separate plants that include both male and female flowers. However, gardening both sexes of plants is not recommended in the temperate zone in North America because pampas grass is classed as an invasive species, and it’s listed as one of the 16 Invasive Species Sold at Garden Centers in one of our posts. The clumps form so densely in areas where it remains evergreen that native plants have trouble gaining or retaining an ecological foothold due to lack of space. When people plant pampas grass in a zone or space that doesn’t have cold winters, they risk the spread of thick stands up to 20 miles away. One great way to control the spread of these ornamental grasses when you’re gardening it is to cut the plumes from either male or female plants as soon as they emerge for floral arrangements. Another way to control this perennial grass is to only purchase female plants, which won’t be pollinated and won’t spread like wildfire – or provide fodder for wildfire.While the majority of pampas grass falls into the selloana species and subdivides into roughly 25 varietals, there are other species that also use the common name pampas grass.

Oenothera Fruticosa

Oenothera fruticosa, or narrowleaf evening primrose, is a drought-tolerant plant. Our guide shares how to use it in your borders or xeriscape!Oenothera fruticosa, commonly known as Southern sundrops or sundrops, is a tall-standing, day-flowering plant that produces beautiful, terminal clusters of bright yellow flowers in late spring and summer. The lance-shaped, fresh green leaves of the Oenothera fruticosa are a little jagged. The plant is called sundrops, thanks to the cup-like flowers that bloom during the day. Even though each flower is short-lived, they grow in succession through a period of two months. You can grow this low-maintenance flowering plant in your garden under full sun as a xeriscape plant.The narrow-leaf primrose (Oenothera fruticosa) is a flowering plant that is part of the evening primrose family Onagraceae. It is native to many parts of Canada, Hawaii, Greenland, and Eastern North America, where you can find it growing in dry woodlands, wild gardens, moist savannas, and rocky outcrops. It is a tall herbaceous plant that grows to a height of 1-3′ ft. In your garden, grow pretty Oenothera fruticosa as a garden border and in your rocky or drought-tolerant gardens. Cottage gardens, native plant areas, rock gardens, and rock outcrops are perfect for this native plant of eastern North America. The sundrop tolerates poor soils, requires medium maintenance and attracts native bees at the same time. Botanically, this plant is a perennial wildflower with lanceolate leaves, pubescent leaf blades, red stems, and cup-like yellow blooms. In spring, reddish basal leaves form from overwintered seeds, and the plant matures and blooms in May and June. Unlike its relative primroses, this day-flowering member of the same family is a lovely wild plant that is perfect for beds designed to feed birds. Specifically, the seeds are a primary food source for the mourning dove. Even though sundrops are a particular species in the primrose family, they have two commonly grown cultivars – ‘Fireworks’ and ‘African Sun.’ The ‘Fireworks’ cultivar has dark yellow flowers that emerge from red buds. The foliage is deep bronze, and the stems have a slight tinge of red to them. ‘African Sun’ has bright yellow cup-like flowers, creating a gorgeous mat of yellow in your landscape.

Helleborus Foetidus

Helleborus foetidus, commonly known as stinking hellebore, is a lovely winter-to-spring blooming perennial that's also easy to grow. Kevin Espiritu discusses everything you need to know to plant and care for this perennial.Helleborus foetidus is a flowering plant that will make a beautiful addition to your landscape. It can be grown in large containers, but does best in a dedicated, permanent outdoor garden bed. The dark green, palmate leaves with a bluish tint create a showy and striking contrast against its bell-shaped, greenish-white flowers. This plant is popular among gardeners. Unlike most other perennial plants, it’s evergreen through the winter. And it can handle cold climates like a champ, making it a perfect pick for northern climates. Even better, once established, it’s ideal in xeriscaping. One of its common names sounds quite comical. Who wants something called stinking hellebore in their garden? Luckily, they don’t actually stink, despite their common name. If crushed or bruised, their leaves have an earthy aroma. So don’t be deterred. You’ll love the ambiance your plant brings!The plant is known by multiple common names. While stinking hellebore is the best known, it’s also known as bear’s foot or setterwort. It’s native to Greece, Asia Minor, and the central and southern parts of Europe. In the wild, it generally grows in scrub forests. This provides it with a shady environment where it performs best. Helleborus foetidus produces narrow, glossy leaves on thick succulent stems. The leaves are deeply carved and may resemble the leaves of palms or ferns. Some have lightly toothed edges. Its flowers open in late winter. The bloom time lasts until March, sometimes even April. Its flowers are pale green in color and have five petal-like sepals, resembling little bells. While their color isn’t showy, it still stands out in the garden. Be careful when planting Helleborus foetidus. This plant develops a deep root system which greatly improves the plant’s winter hardiness and drought tolerance. However, it also makes them difficult to transplant. If possible, only plant young plants that haven’t had time to develop those roots yet. Older plants should be placed in a permanent location. Replant hellebores at the same depth as they were in their original pot.

Gaura Lindheimeri

Gaura lindheimeri (Oenothera lindheimeri), or Lindheimer's beeblossom, is a lovely perennial with butterfly-shaped flowers in shades of pink and white. Kevin Espiritu will share our growing guide that gives you all the tips to perfect perennials.Beautiful in wildflower gardens, Gaura lindheimeri is more commonly known as Lindheimer’s beeblossom. Named after the German-born botanist Ferdinand Jacob Lindheimer, gaura plant is from the family Onagraceae. In 2007, its name was changed to Oenothera lindheimeri, however many nurseries still use gaura to identify it. The white flowers or bright pink flowers it produces look like butterflies, and it’s got a long blooming season. Drought-tolerant, this garden perennial looks best when it’s allowed to sprawl out and naturalize. It’s good for xeriscaping as well! A warm weather loving species, the butterfly plant is well worth adding to your garden beds. Let’s talk about everything that beeblossom can offer for your landscaping needs!Gaura lindheimeri is part of family Onagraceae, a species of Oenothera. Its new botanical name is Oenothera lindheimeri. Some of its common names include Indian feather, Lindheimer’s clockweed, white gaura, pink, and Lindheimer’s beeblossom.Native to North America, Gaura lindheimeri is most commonly found in Texas, Oklahoma and Louisiana. It thrives in areas with well-drained soils and tolerates dry and sandy conditions, reflecting its adaptation to the region’s natural environment. This perennial plant is accustomed to full sun and open spaces, making it a resilient choice for gardens with similar climates. Its delicate, butterfly-like flowers mimic the graceful, wild beauty of its native habitat.An herbaceous perennial, it can reach heights of up to five feet tall. Its stems are clad with long, spearpoint-like leaves about three inches in length. The flower spikes are wiry and tall, with pinkish buds that open to become white or pink flowers. From early spring until the first frosts in the fall, it will bloom white or pink flowers. This long bloom time has a lot to do with how it flowers. Only a few flowers appear at at time on each of the flower spikes. As they fade and drop from the stem, new ones open. Each of the white or pink flowers has four petals and a little cluster of long stamens that burst from the center of the flower. The four petals look a bit like the shape of a butterfly, which is where cultivars like ‘Whirling Butterflies’ get their name. A sport of the original known as ‘Siskiyou Pink’ is from which all pink-colored gaura is derived. Gaura lindheimeri can be container-grown, but does just as well as a border plant or clustered together in a garden bed. It’s a prized addition for a native plant garden. The plant has won the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit for several varieties. Popular cultivars include: ‘Siskiyou Pink’: A rose-pink cultivar that forms from deep maroon buds that bloom into more intensely colored petals, averaging 18-24″ tall. ‘Whirling Butterflies’: White blooms with reddish stems. It averages two to five feet tall. ‘Cherry Brandy’: A deep rose pink tinged gaura with ruby-colored to pink buds, more compact at 12-18″ tall. ‘Corrie’s Gold’: White flowers tinged with pink. The green foliage is edged with yellow, and compact at 18″. ‘Snowstorm’: A white variety that is not as cold-hardy as others but flowers heavily.An herbaceous perennial, it can reach heights of up to five feet tall. Its stems are clad with long, spearpoint-like leaves about three inches in length. The flower spikes are wiry and tall, with pinkish buds that open to become white or pink flowers. From early spring until the first frosts in the fall, it will bloom white or pink flowers. This long bloom time has a lot to do with how it flowers. Only a few flowers appear at at time on each of the flower spikes. As they fade and drop from the stem, new ones open. Each of the white or pink flowers has four petals and a little cluster of long stamens that burst from the center of the flower. The four petals look a bit like the shape of a butterfly, which is where cultivars like ‘Whirling Butterflies’ get their name. A sport of the original known as ‘Siskiyou Pink’ is from which all pink-colored gaura is derived. Gaura lindheimeri can be container-grown, but does just as well as a border plant or clustered together in a garden bed. It’s a prized addition for a native plant garden. The plant has won the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit for several varieties. Popular cultivars include: ‘Siskiyou Pink’: A rose-pink cultivar that forms from deep maroon buds that bloom into more intensely colored petals, averaging 18-24″ tall. ‘Whirling Butterflies’: White blooms with reddish stems. It averages two to five feet tall. ‘Cherry Brandy’: A deep rose pink tinged gaura with ruby-colored to pink buds, more compact at 12-18″ tall. ‘Corrie’s Gold’: White flowers tinged with pink. The green foliage is edged with yellow, and compact at 18″. ‘Snowstorm’: A white variety that is not as cold-hardy as others but flowers heavily.

Rudbeckia Maxima

Rudbeckia maxima, or giant coneflower, is a deer-resistant ornamental wildflower type you must grow in your garden! Kevin Espiritu will share all the tips and tricks you need to get the best out of these giants in the garden.The giant coneflower or great coneflower is a favorite among novice and seasoned gardeners. It’s easy to care for, and its flowers attract gorgeous butterflies! Perfect for a cottage garden, Rudbeckia maxima also provides a stunning display. Scientifically known as Rudbeckia maxima, these plants have striking waxy green-blue leaves that appear in rosettes. The foliage has cabbage-like blades which is why this plant is also known as cabbage leaf coneflower. Whether you’re growing these for their color, size, drought-resistant characteristics as xeriscape plants, or simply as a cut flower for your gardens… let’s learn how to properly grow and care for them.A wonderful wildflower, Rudbeckia maxima belongs to the Asteraceae plant family. This striking perennial is renowned for its tall architectural form. It is an excellent choice for pollinator-friendly gardens, wildflower meadows, and borders. Once established, Rudbeckia maxima is drought-tolerant and attracts bees, butterflies, and birds, adding ecological value to its aesthetic appeal. These plants are native to the southern United States (in Texas, Louisiana, Oklahoma, Arkansas, and South Carolina) and are found growing in moist and sunny locations such as pastures, prairies, meadows, and fields. Today people incorporate them in cottage gardens and pollinator gardens.The plant has about five feet long, sparsely leafed flower stalks that sprout attractive blooms with bright yellow rays of daisy-like petals surrounding a big elongated bright brown cone made of seed heads. The plant’s bluish-green leaves relate to its common name, cabbage leaf coneflower. The seed cones often persist through winters and attract goldfinches to your garden! The bluish leaves at the base are also attractive, as they form a basal clump right at the bottom of the plant.The plant has about five feet long, sparsely leafed flower stalks that sprout attractive blooms with bright yellow rays of daisy-like petals surrounding a big elongated bright brown cone made of seed heads. The plant’s bluish-green leaves relate to its common name, cabbage leaf coneflower. The seed cones often persist through winters and attract goldfinches to your garden! The bluish leaves at the base are also attractive, as they form a basal clump right at the bottom of the plant.The plant has about five feet long, sparsely leafed flower stalks that sprout attractive blooms with bright yellow rays of daisy-like petals surrounding a big elongated bright brown cone made of seed heads. The plant’s bluish-green leaves relate to its common name, cabbage leaf coneflower. The seed cones often persist through winters and attract goldfinches to your garden! The bluish leaves at the base are also attractive, as they form a basal clump right at the bottom of the plant.These are fantastic companion plants, especially in a cottage garden or pocket prairie, as the tall flower stalks and gorgeous yellow flowers combine well with other tall Rudbeckia varieties like Rudbeckia ‘Irish Eyes’ and Rudbeckia laciniata. These plants are native to a large portion of the southern US and don’t require a ton of care once they’re established. Prepare the area for planting by loosening the soil to a depth of 12-16 inches and mixing in compost to improve drainage and fertility. Space the plants 24-36 inches apart for their mature size and spreading habit. Dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the plant’s root ball. Place the plant in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface, then fill in with soil. Firmly press the soil down and water thoroughly to settle the roots. Apply a two to three inch layer of mulch around the base to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Once established, Rudbeckia maxima requires minimal care and is drought-tolerant, making it ideal for low-maintenance landscapes.

Southern Blue Flag: How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Iris Virginica

Thinking of planting an Iris virginica in your garden? This carefree aquatic plant, usually found in the wild across the Southern and Eastern United States, is the perfect addition to any water-heavy spots in your garden. Gardening expert Madison Moulton examines the best ways to plant, grow, and care for the Southern Blue Flag. Nestled the balmy heat of the Southeastern United States, from Virginia to Louisiana and into Texas, sits Iris Virginica – a delicate herbaceous perennial. The small, intricate blue blooms top long stems, surrounded by spiked green leaves that contrast in texture and structure. Looks are not the only thing this showy plant has going for it. It is also incredibly low maintenance, growing well anywhere it is provided wet soil. This makes this Iris which has a striking blue flower, an ideal addition next to ponds or streams, or as a part of a water feature. Although it resides largely on the South coast, this plant will thrive in a range of climate regions. No matter where you reside, you won’t regret adding this plant to your water garden. What Is Iris Virginica? The Virginia Iris is a member of the Iris genus, containing hundreds of species and cultivars with similar detailed, interesting flower types. The genus name comes from the Greek for ‘rainbow’, seemingly referring to the colorful flowers found across these fascinating species. Iris Virginica is Native to the Eastern and Southern coastal regions of the United States, it features bluish-purple blooms surrounding a yellow and white center. The yellow patch is believed to guide pollinators to the nectar inside the center of the flower. Each petal is decorated with deep violet veins that stand out against the light base. The delicate flowers are surrounded by clumps of sharp green leaves that add volume to the plant. This plant is commonly compared to its Northern counterpart, Iris versicolor. Both Iris species are incredibly similar, growing in the same wetland conditions and sporting similar flowers. However, Northern Blue Flag is understandably more cold-hardy, growing well in USDA zones 3-9. Southern Blue Flag (and Northern Blue Flag, too) is mostly found in the wild and not typically grown in home gardens. They are skipped over in favor of their more popular ornamental relatives. However, this shouldn’t stop you from growing it in your own backyard. These plants provide the classic Iris look we all love in wetland conditions. This makes them ideal for tricky spots like ponds, or planted in rain gardens, where they will grow without fuss. They are also native to the US, a great alternative to some of the invasive Iris species that disrupt the local environments. Propagation There are a few ways to correctly propagate the iris virginica. In the wild, Virginia Iris spreads by dropping seeds or slowly extending the rhizomes. When left to spread on their own, the clumps can become congested, preventing further prolific growth and flowering. When kept in your garden, it is best to divide and replant the rhizomes every few years to promote flowering. Alternatively, you can harvest the seeds and replant them immediately, straight into the garden. Dividing Southern Blue Flags Division is best done in late summer or early autumn. When the leaves begin to yellow, you’ll know the plants are ready to be propagated. Divide after the plant has finished flowering to enjoy the best of its blooms for that season and limit the risk of bacterial soft rot. To divide, gently lift the plant out of the soil with a fork, ensuring you do not damage the rhizomes. Depending on the age of your plant, you may be able to pull the rhizomes apart, but if not, they can be cut with a clean, sharp knife. Use this time to remove any unhealthy rhizomes or dying leaves. New, healthy rhizomes will be plump with plenty of leaves, while older ones will have a woody texture. Cut the leaves to around a third of their height. This allows the plant to focus its energy on rhizome regrowth, limiting any potential transplant stress. Replant the viable rhizomes back into the garden, ensuring they have plenty of sunshine and water to reestablish themselves. Propagating From Seeds When propagating from seed, plant immediately after harvesting when the seeds are still ripe. You’ll know the seeds are ready when the pod turns brown and dries out. Iris virginica seeds do not respond well to being stored and, if allowed to dry out, will no longer be viable. Plant the seeds straight into the garden in fall and they should emerge again come springtime. Planting This particular plant should ideally be planted in early spring. Rhizomes are best planted in fall, but potted plants can be transplanted into the garden in early spring to get the most of their late spring and summer flowers. Plant around 2’ apart to give the plants enough space to spread. Ensure the area you are planting in has plenty of sunlight and receives a good amount of water throughout the day. Ideal spots include bog gardens or rain gardens, or along streams and rivers. This perennial can be planted as a border plant in garden beds, but will need constant watering to thrive. When planting in beds, ensure you pair it with other water-loving plants to match their needs. As they need consistently moist soil, most other common bedding plants will succumb to root rot under the same conditions. Care One of the great benefits of growing this plant species is its remarkably carefree nature. When given the right environment, this plant will grow and flower reliably for many years without too much intervention from you. Light When it comes to light, this plant needs plenty of sun to produce its showy flowers. In most regions, it is best planted in a full sun position. However, in hotter areas, it may benefit from some shade in the afternoons. The more shade this plant receives, the less likely it will be to flower.