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Gardening

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How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Lavender

Growing lavender provides great beauty to your garden, and it smells great too! This perennial herb has many uses and is easy to grow with the right conditions. People have been growing lavender for centuries. Many are familiar with the use of lavender essential oils for cleaning, relaxation, and bug repellant. Back in Roman times, lavender was used in religious ceremonies. Today, people even enjoy lavender as a culinary accouterment. Possibly the best thing about lavender is how easy it is to grow. Lavender plants thrive in a garden, raised beds, or even indoors. You can grow lavender in pots, making it easy to protect from the cold. Or you can make it a part of your perennial gardening practice, and let it die back in winter. Aromatic herbs are a great addition to a garden for pest control. Lavender in particular produces lovely blooms that you can incorporate into a flower arrangement. With so many lavender varieties, you can choose a cultivar adapted to your area and try another not as suited as an experiment in gardening. You can start growing lavender almost anywhere! These plants cover a wide range of species all relegated to the Lavendula genus. This guide covers English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and French lavender (Lavendula dentata). There are other famous cultivars like Dutch lavender, spike lavender, and the hybrid Lavandula x intermedia (Lavandin). We’ll get into the details of each of these in the next section. Lavender originates from the Mediterranean, where it likes warm, rainy winters and hot, dry summers. It also has roots in southern Asian countries like India and the Middle East. Hybrids have made lavender available worldwide for garden or container planting. These plants are upright with gray-green foliage and white to deep purple flowers. Leaves are arranged opposite one another on square woody stems. Like other aromatics, lavender is slow-growing and often doesn’t flower in the first year of growth. Healthy plants that are several years old grow up to three feet tall. Bruise a leaf or flower, and fragrant oils are released. This is what lavender is known for best: its light fresh floral scent. In cooking, lavender flowers are a star of delectable baked goods, teas, and meat rubs. Outside the kitchen, people use lavender in aromatherapy for relaxation, and homemade bug sprays and cleaning agents. It has been used for ages medicinally as a headache soother, nervine, and digestive aid. The root of the word “lavender” comes from the Roman “lavare” which means “to wash”. Those who know the plant know just how clean the scent can make one feel. Lavender originates from the Mediterranean, where it likes warm, rainy winters and hot, dry summers. It also has roots in southern Asian countries like India and the Middle East. Hybrids have made lavender available worldwide for garden or container planting. These plants are upright with gray-green foliage and white to deep purple flowers. Leaves are arranged opposite one another on square woody stems. Like other aromatics, lavender is slow-growing and often doesn’t flower in the first year of growth. Healthy plants that are several years old grow up to three feet tall. Bruise a leaf or flower, and fragrant oils are released. This is what lavender is known for best: its light fresh floral scent. In cooking, lavender flowers are a star of delectable baked goods, teas, and meat rubs. Outside the kitchen, people use lavender in aromatherapy for relaxation, and homemade bug sprays and cleaning agents. It has been used for ages medicinally as a headache soother, nervine, and digestive aid. The root of the word “lavender” comes from the Roman “lavare” which means “to wash”. Those who know the plant know just how clean the scent can make one feel. The most well-known of the lavender species are French lavender (Lavandula dentata) and English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). The main difference between the two lies in the climate they are suited to. English varieties are cold-hardy, whereas French lavender thrives in temperate, humid climates. The English species also live longer than French lavender, at 15 years compared to about five years respectively. English lavender also tends to grow up to 20 inches tall. French lavender grows taller at a maximum of 36 inches. While most of the lavender species you can buy at a nursery are one of the two aforementioned, the hybrid Dutch lavender (Lavandula x intermedia) is prized for its essential oil. It’s a cross between English and Portuguese lavender and produces tons of flowers that have that essentially lavender fragrance everyone loves so much. Wait until the last frost has passed in late spring to plant lavender transplants in the garden or a pot. It’s possible to transplant in fall, but French varieties most appreciate springtime and summer months. English varieties can survive winter more easily, so they are a better candidate for fall transplants. Select an area of your garden that has full sun. If you’re not sure about the sun content in the spot you choose, try growing lavender in pots at first. This way you can move your plant around as the season progresses to find the best place. Give lavender plants mildly fertile well-drained soil. This goes for growing lavender in pots and in a garden bed. It is possible to plant lavender seeds, but they can take up to three weeks to germinate. If you are starting your lavender growing journey this way, start seeds indoors in a potting mix or seed starting mix in early spring or late fall. Make sure the area you start them in has ample sunlight or UV radiation from a grow light. A heating mat helps with germination. Most of all, be patient. It will take at least three months for viable seedlings to grow.

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Comfrey

To loosen your clay soil, grow the comfrey plant. Better yet, it'll entice bees and other pollinators to your yard. Used as a mulch, fertilizer, compost accelerator, pollinator attractor, and clay soil breaker, the comfrey plant is an invaluable addition to a garden. As long as you don’t live in the plant’s invasive range, you can gain a lot of benefit from planting it. The first comfrey shoots appear in spring. By June it has grown waist high with a multitude of pretty bell-shaped, pink to purple flowers, each one with a tiny bee’s bottom protruding from the end as they feast on the rich comfrey nectar. I let the bees feast for a few weeks before taking my first harvest, cutting the stalks at ground level and then roughly chopping to add a much-needed nitrogen boost to my cold, carbon-rich sleepy compost. Within a few weeks, new leaves have sprouted 12-15 inches long and are ready for harvesting to feed the now-hungry vegetable and fruit crops. Comfrey foliage is rich in potassium and trace minerals, magnesium, and calcium, perfect for tomatoes, peppers, and pumpkins. And so, the cycle begins for at least another two harvests. That’s at least three to four harvests per season. What’s not to love about comfrey? Comfrey is a hardy herbaceous perennial and a member of the borage family, Boraginaceae, which includes borage, forget-me-nots, echium, brunnera, and cerinthe. There are two main species of comfrey, Symphytum officinale, also known as common comfrey native to Europe and Asia, and Russian comfrey (Symphytum x uplandicum), a naturally occurring hybrid first discovered in Upland, Sweden in the 1800s. It has naturalized in parts of Canada. S. x uplandicum is a cross between common comfrey and Symphytum asperum, the blue-flowered rough or prickly comfrey originating in Russia. Common comfrey has been cultivated since ancient Greek and Roman times when it had medicinal use primarily as a poultice to heal broken bones, bruises, and other injuries, hence the common names knitbone, knitback, and bruisewort. Although similar in appearance and cultivation, there are some key differences between common and Russian comfrey. Common comfrey can reproduce via seed dispersal, making it invasive in certain parts of the world. Russian comfrey flowers are sterile, therefore propagation is through cuttings and division. Russian comfrey leaves are larger, producing higher yields. The first green shoots of comfrey emerge from your garden bed as basal growth from its crown in mid-spring. It quickly forms a large clump with leaves 12 to 15 inches long, lance-shaped, green, and roughly textured with lots of tiny prickly hairs that can be a skin irritant. As late spring ebbs away and the temperatures rise towards summer, thick branching flowering stalks push up from the crown with smaller leaves. Clusters of drooping tubular bell-shaped flowers appear, ranging in color from yellow, pink, purple, and blue, depending on the species. At full height, comfrey can reach three to four feet. Comfrey dies back naturally after flowering. The heavy stalks often collapse and are quickly replaced by new shoots. Cutting back the plant before it goes to flower will speed up the process of regrowth. Cold autumn temperatures initiate winter dormancy.

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Blue False Indigo

Are you looking to grow Blue False Indigo in your garden? Beginner gardeners or those wanting a low-maintenance, water-wise plant to add to their landscape will be satisfied with this native perennial. Gardening expert Madison Moulton takes a look at this popular plant, covering absolutely everything you need to know from planting to cutting the flowers in spring.Native plants often provide plenty of rewards for very little effort, whether that be in their stunning flowers, vigorous growth, or glossy foliage. But very few plants provide as much reward for as little effort as Blue False Indigo – Baptisia australis. In late spring, this plant shoots up gorgeous blue flowers reminiscent of other members of the pea plant family. But that’s not all there is to love about False Indigo. The glossy green leaves stand tall in garden beds, maintaining interest for the rest of the year out of the short flowering season. The blooms are pollinator magnets and draw a range of good bugs to your garden in spring and summer. And, to top it all off, they have almost no problems with pests and diseases. Take a look at these growing and planting tips for everything you need to know about keeping your Blue False Indigo thriving in your garden. Native to North America and commonly found in the central or eastern parts of the United States, Blue False Indigo was used by Native Americans for hundreds of years. It was primarily used as a blue dye. Strong pigments were extracted from the plant and used to color different materials. The long taproots were also harvested to make natural medicines to treat pain and nausea, and the hardened seed pods typical of the legume family were believed to be used as children’s rattles. British settlers took notice of the Native American’s use of Baptisia as a blue dye. At the time, indigo pigments from the plant Indigofera tinctoria were incredibly popular. This plant originated in the West Indies and was shipped around the world in the 18th century. However, demand far exceeded supply, and the settlers began using Baptisia as a replacement. Although the color was not as intense or vibrant as true Indigo, it did provide the blue hue in fashion in the 1700s. It became an essential crop and was even exported to other parts of the world until farmers began growing true Indigo in North American territory. Its time as a global economically important crop may have been short-lived, but the plant’s popularity has not waned. Instead, it is now valued for its ornamental qualities and ability to grow well in a wide range of conditions with little to no maintenance. Wild Baptisia australis can be found in the Midwest of the United States today. They are usually situated around woodlands or along streams and in meadows. However, this native plant is not restricted to the wilderness, nor its native habitat. False Indigo is a common garden plant in the US, found in nurseries across the country. It is one of only a few native blue flowers that have the true blue color not often seen in nature. It is also incredibly easy to grow and establishes itself well in most parts of the United States. Baptisia australis has also been introduced to other parts of the world and can be found growing in many European gardens. It has even won the prestigious Royal Horticultural Society’s Award Of Garden Merit, indicating its appreciation on continents far from its native area. It also won the award for Perennial Plant of the Year in 2010, awarded by the Perennial Plant Association. This is a big award for this popular blue perennial flower. Essentially, there are few places around the world where this plant is not beloved. Baptisia is most often propagated from seed, but can also be propagated from cuttings or by division. Seed germination rates are not particularly high, and propagating from cuttings, although requiring more equipment, usually produces more reliable results. Propagating by division is only recommended after the plant has been growing for a few years and should only be done when absolutely necessary, as the long taproots do not like to be disturbed.

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Alyssum

Sweet alyssum is a powerful pollinator lure that attracts bees to your yard. This spectacular plant is a must-grow flowering superstar. Alyssum plants have been grown for ages. In Spain in the 1500s, you’d find sweet alyssum bordering edible gardens or growing wild on Mediterranean beaches. Alyssum flowers are not only beautiful, they also attract many of the beneficial pests that help you grow a garden. A short-lived perennial, alyssum has been cultivated long enough for the development of heat and drought-tolerant varieties. These small flowers self-seed, and can be biennial in temperate climates. Because alyssum doesn’t get very tall, it’s an excellent way to border a square foot garden or create a barrier between rows. Alyssum, with its tiny flowers, is a vigorous spreader. There are many different cultivars in many different shades and colors. Alyssum garden zones will bloom with lavender, pink, yellow, and white flowers. Plant white ‘Snow Crystals’, or try a pink variety that blooms in spring and fall, like ‘Royal Carpet’. Whether you choose snow white or pink, you won’t have to search far; seedlings are in every nursery. Due to its low and wide stature, the alyssum is known as a carpet flower and is used in bedding. Because alyssums don’t reach more than 12 inches in height and 12 inches wide, they are often used to border gardens and separate areas. This bordering is either for design purposes or to attract beneficial insects to an edible garden. They also attract hosts of pollinators, which boosts pollination for food production. Sweet alyssum was originally cultivated in southern Europe, chiefly in Spain. The first records of sweet alyssum date back to the 1500s. It is also native to North Africa around the Mediterranean. The common cultivar of alyssum, Lobularia maritima, was hybridized and developed in the 1800s. It’s no wonder that these white flowers are still incorporated into edible gardens today, as they attract hosts of beneficial insects and are relatively maintenance-free. The root of the scientific name, Lobularia maritima comes from the Latin words for ‘seed pod’ and ‘the coast’. The plant has a genus synonym called Alyssum. Some alyssums are annuals. Some are short-lived and perennial. In optimal climates, this plant is a brief biennial. A member of the Brassicaceae, or mustard family, alyssum plants have simple grey-green leaves arranged alternately on a central stem. Trichomes cover the leaves. Alyssum’s small, fragrant, symmetrical flowers have four petals and grow in clusters. Flower colors range anywhere from blue to purple or red to pink. Most common alyssum plants have white flowers. Search for a white variety if you’d like to grow the alyssum of the olden days. Sweet alyssum plants are small and herbaceous. They bloom in summer through fall. As flowers bloom and die, seedpods called silicles form. When winter draws near, the pods dry and pop open, spreading seed over the ground. Then, in early spring, sweet alyssum returns to bloom again. Some varieties of sweet alyssum are vigorous spreaders and may need to be container-gardened. Check your local agricultural extension office to determine the best cultivars for your area. If you’re unsure about the species you picked up at a nearby nursery, grow it in hanging baskets or containers. Many species are adapted to different regions of the world, though, so it shouldn’t be hard to find plants. There are many alyssum varieties – more than we can showcase here. Here are a few notables to search for: Snow Crystals: This plant is heat tolerant and produces gorgeous white flowers in early spring. The minimum height of snow crystals is six inches. Easter Bonnet: This tall plant comes in shades of white, rose, red, and pink. The minimum height of Easter bonnet is ten inches. Lavender Sweet Alyssum: This lavender blooming plant flowers twice: in early spring and late fall. It stands about eight inches tall making it great for hanging baskets and bedding. It’s also great for incorporating purple to lavender flowers in a landscape, and for related applications. Royal Carpet: This plant blooms vibrant purple to lavender flowers twice per year in spring and fall. It’s a low grower. Purple and lavender blooms spread out about ten inches wide at only three inches tall. Pastel Carpet Sweet Alyssum: This medium-height plant comes in light pastel colors of pink, white, yellow, and rose. The maximum height is nine inches. Dwarf Pink Sweet Alyssum: lovely compact beneficial companion plant can be used as a ground cover or border flower to attract bees and ladybugs. Alyssum is perfect for growing from seed either in trays or directly into the garden. Sow the seeds over a seed starting mix indoors, directly in a container, or in your garden after the danger of frost has passed, six to eight weeks before the last frost. You can also plant seedlings purchased from the nursery, which are usually available in spring. Prepare the soil with plenty of organic materials, like compost, before planting in the ground. Space plants six to twelve inches apart, depending on the variety.

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Tansy

Tansy is known for its yellow button flowers that attract pollinators to the garden.Commonly known as the tansy plant, Tanacetum vulgare can provide many benefits to your garden once you know how to grow and care for it. The yellow button-like flowers are simple, yet lovely, attracting pollinators while also being an insect repellent with a history of medicinal uses. You can find Tanacetum vulgare growing in the wild in many places in North America. Some areas have labeled it as a noxious weed, but once you know how to prevent it from spreading, it really is an easy-to-grow perennial plant. Follow this complete tansy guide to give this beautiful plant a home in your garden. The tansy plant is known as the common tansy and its botanical name is Tanacetum vulgare. Other common names include bitter buttons, cow bitter, and golden buttons. The derivation of the scientific name Tanacetum vulgare is interesting. Tanacetum comes from the Greek word athanasia, which means ‘no death’ or immortal. This is because once you dry the flowers, they last for many years, and the plant can last a long time as well. This species is native to Asia and Europe, but it now grows everywhere in North America. It was brought to North America in the 1600s for its ornamental flowers. Since it spreads easily, it now grows in the wild and is known as a noxious weed in many areas. Common tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is an herbaceous perennial that averages three to five feet tall and spreads twelve to eighteen inches. It reproduces by seeds or rhizomes, making it an aggressive grower that can easily become invasive. Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is often confused with the tansy ragwort (Senecio jacobaea) species, which is slightly more troublesome. The foliage grows in a clump with multiple stems, giving the tansy plant a shrub-like appearance. The stem is reddish-brown, and the alternate leaves are fern-like. Bright yellow button-like flowers are arranged in a flat-topped cluster at the end of the stem. Crushing the flowers or foliage emits a distinct odor that is strong yet faintly like its cousin, yarrow. It makes a perfect insect repellent, but it will also attract native beneficial insects. Tanacetum vulgare is toxic, and gloves should be worn when handling it. It does, however, have medicinal qualities and was historically used to treat parasitic worms. Nowadays, it is considered a poisonous plant that can cause death if consumed in large quantities. Many varieties of garden flowers are toxic, so don’t let this deter you from planting them in your garden! The common tansy grows well in containers or confined within garden beds, which helps prevent it from becoming a noxious weed in your garden. On a positive note, the common tansy will repel flies and other pest-like insects. At the same time, the golden yellow flower will attract parasitic wasps and pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Since the flower can bloom from July to September, it provides plenty of food for the bees. It is poisonous to animals, so don’t allow your cattle or sheep to graze within a tansy flower patch. The tansy is one of the easiest plants to grow in your garden. You can grow tansy in a container or in the ground, depending on how much room you have and where you live. Gardeners in MD, MN, ID, OR, WA, WI, and WY should opt for container growing, or for an alternative as this plant is an invasive species in these states.

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Streamside Spider Lilies: Hymenocallis Rotata Plant Profile

Streamside spider lilies are amazing plants that are very common in certain zones across the world. Strolling along the streams of northern Florida, you may have come across an unusual flower. Growing near water sources like lakes or streams, the Streamside Spider Lily is a native Florida gem. Its white showy flowers are sure to stop any passersby. If you’re lucky enough to find a field during the flowering season, the wispy blooms atop tall stems form an impressive display when grouped together. Unfortunately, this species of Spider Lily is also endangered, and anyone wanting to witness their beauty firsthand may struggle to find them in the years to come. Whether you’re looking to identify a Spider Lily you’ve come across on an afternoon walk, or simply want to appreciate the beauty of this mesmerizing species, you’re in the right place. Native Habitat Hence their name, Streamside Spider Lilies are often found near streams and bodies of water. Hymenocallis rotata is largely found in the northern parts of Florida, moving into lower Alabama, with some sightings reported along the east and south coast of the United States. In fact, 13 of the 16 native US Hymenocallis species are found in Florida. Due to its region of origin, it is also known as Hymenocallis floridana, or less often called Hymenocallis laciniata. A lover of water, the Spider Lily is almost always found in wetland areas. You will likely come across this plant in marshes or ditches, either sitting directly in or very close to water sources. The distribution is the densest near Tallahassee, found along spring runs and lakes in Wakulla County heading north toward the state capital. This plant is classified as a hydrophyte, meaning it will only grow in or very close to water. The bulb sits below the waterline, leaving the upright green leaves and flower stems to shoot above. In areas with shallow water cover, you’ll find many Streamside spider lilies grouped together, soaking up the moisture. Classification This perennial herb is related to other lilies and bulb flowers. Hymenocallis rotata falls under the superorder lilioid monocots, characterized by their large colored tepals (the outer part of the flower). This explains their common name ‘Spider Lily’, as they are related to the other Lily plants beloved by gardeners. The ‘Spider’ part of the name is thanks to the shape of the flowers, with six curved petals that look like large, delicate spiders’ legs. Part of the Amaryllidaceae family, the Spider Lily is a relative of many common garden plants, including Agapanthus, Alliums, and Daffodils. The genus Hymenocallis contains many rhizomatous bulbs with similarly shaped flowers, occasionally grown in gardens for their ornamental value. In gardening terms, it is considered a perennial herb, flowering in spring each year. Identification The spidery long petals distinguish this flower from others. This Hymenocallis gets its specific epithet name from the unique structure of the flower. The corona (part of the flower on the outer edge of the stamen) rotates, a trait unique to the genus. This corona is white with a yellow-green center. This is different from other spider lilies which can be red, or other colors. Each plant produces two to four white flowers per stem. These flowers start out cup-shaped but begin to flatten out as the flower opens further. Surrounding the flower are long, wispy tepals, also in white, that make this plant instantly recognizable. These flowers open around the same time and release a stunning fragrance. The deciduous leaves are either arched upward or almost completely erect, framing the flowers in the center. They remain a glossy green all season, similar to the leaves of its distant relative, the Clivia. Conservation Status These unique flowers are becoming rarer, making them more difficult to find. The Streamside Spider Lily has a Global Conservation Status rank of G2 – imperiled. Defined as “at high risk of extinction or collapse”, this classification is likely due to the small regional distribution of this relatively unknown species. It could also be a result of low or declining distribution, meaning finding this plant in the wild will become more difficult over time. This status does not take garden cultivation into account and may improve the chances of this wonderful species surviving. But these plants are not particularly easy to find, especially in local nurseries, and are most often appreciated when discovered out in the wild. Other Spider Lilies White Hymenocallis Littoralis Flowers The Hymenocallis littoralis is another spider lily that looks very much like Hymenocallis rotata. H. rotata is one of many Spider Lilies, mostly found in the same zones around Florida. H. godfreyi looks similar, but is slightly smaller than rotata. This is the only plant of the genus that forms rhizomes on the bottom of the bulb as opposed to the side. The leaves are much shorter too, growing just over 1 foot tall. Also in Wakulla County, H. godfreyi is found in a more limited area and is considered endangered. H. crassifolia is often mistaken for rotata. Found mostly in the northeast of Florida, the flowers bloom in late spring. These flowers stay funnel-shaped, as opposed to rotata flowers that flatten out over time. The leaves are almost always upright, while rotata leaves can be arched or upright. More commonly grown in gardens, H. occidentalis has an unusual habitat for the Hymenocallis genus. It is usually found in forests, often away from water sources, in the Florida Panhandle. It also blooms later than other species, producing showy flowers in early summer. In the wild, you may also find H. duvalensis or H. choctawensis. In gardens around the world, the most commonly cultivated species are: H. amancaes H. narcissiflora H. littoralis H. speciosa Final Thoughts The Streamside Spider Lily, although usually found in the wild, deserves appreciation from gardeners all over the globe. Keep a lookout for the spider-like white flowers in spring – you won’t be disappointed.

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Growing Bluebells

Are you looking to plant English bluebells in your garden? These European natives are some of the easiest bulbs to grow – a prime example of a ‘plant it and forget it’ flower.If you’re looking to recreate the calming, natural woodland feel in your own garden, you can’t go wrong planting bluebells. These stunning blue bulbs transform European forest floors into seas of blue throughout spring and will make just as much of an impact in pots or your flower beds. Botanically named Hyacinthoides non-scripta, this bulb is usually known as the English bluebell, common bluebell, or wild hyacinth. These woodland plants are not to be confused with Hyacinthoides hispanica or Spanish bluebells, a different species of Hyacinthoides. Their ease of growth and tolerance of shade makes them ideal plants for many gardeners, especially beginners. Choose one, mix them with other popular bulbs, or plant an entire field – the options are endless. Although known today as Hyacinthoides non-scripta, bluebells have had many different names in the past. These bulbs, native to western Europe, were dubbed Hyacinthus non-scriptus by the founder of binomial scientific naming, Carl Linnaeus. This genus is commonly known as hyacinths – an incredibly popular garden bulb. 50 years later, two German scientists changed the genus to Scilla, another bulb genus found across woodlands in Europe. Unfortunately, the scientific uncertainty didn’t stop there. Another 50 years later, a different German scientist transferred the plant to the Endymion genus. That’s why you may still find this plant under the names Endymion non-scriptus or Scilla non-scripta today. In 1934, French botanist Pierre Chouard changed the label to Hyacinthoides – literally meaning ‘like a hyacinth’ – where it remains today. Most wild bluebells are found across the United Kingdom and hold a rich history in this area. Several folklore stories have been passed down for generations, such as the belief that bluebell woodlands are inhabited by fairies. This also gave them the nickname fairy flowers. These folklore fairies are not known to play nice. According to legends, bluebells ring to call the fairies. If a human hears this bell, they will be visited by fairies and face an untimely death. Similarly, children with a desire to pick bluebells are warned that if they do, they will likely disappear, never to be seen again. Apart from these dark and twisted warnings, bluebells are beloved across the UK and in Europe – somewhat of an unofficial national flower. Walking through bluebell fields is a wonderful pastime. But, beware not to disturb the fairies, or face the consequences. While used as garden plants often, most bluebells are found in the wild. More than half of these wild bluebells can be found in woodlands around England. While their origin story is somewhat unclear, people believe these bluebell woodlands started springing up following the end of the last ice age. Due to their age – some are known to be hundreds of years old – these spaces are usually protected to prevent their decline. In some areas, these bulbs are considered endangered in their natural habitats. As a result, it is illegal to remove bluebell bulbs from the wild and plant them in your own garden or sell them off, according to the Wildlife and Countryside Act of the United Kingdom. While part of the same genus, English bluebells and Spanish bluebells are not the same plant. This distinction is important, as Spanish bluebells tend to be more invasive in some regions than their English counterparts. Both plants look quite similar but can be easily distinguished in spring by their flower type. English bluebell flowers are darker and curl over whereas Spanish bluebell flowers are lighter and remain upright. English bluebells are also slightly shorter than Spanish ones. It’s important to keep these two plants away from each other, or they will hybridize to form Hyacinthoides × massartiana. There are two ways to propagate bluebells: by sowing seeds or dividing bulbs. Propagating from seeds is the simplest method and provides the most natural look in the garden. Dividing is slightly more technical but produces quicker results.

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Growing Bluebells

Are you looking to plant English bluebells in your garden? These European natives are some of the easiest bulbs to grow – a prime example of a ‘plant it and forget it’ flower.If you’re looking to recreate the calming, natural woodland feel in your own garden, you can’t go wrong planting bluebells. These stunning blue bulbs transform European forest floors into seas of blue throughout spring and will make just as much of an impact in pots or your flower beds. Botanically named Hyacinthoides non-scripta, this bulb is usually known as the English bluebell, common bluebell, or wild hyacinth. These woodland plants are not to be confused with Hyacinthoides hispanica or Spanish bluebells, a different species of Hyacinthoides. Their ease of growth and tolerance of shade makes them ideal plants for many gardeners, especially beginners. Choose one, mix them with other popular bulbs, or plant an entire field – the options are endless. Although known today as Hyacinthoides non-scripta, bluebells have had many different names in the past. These bulbs, native to western Europe, were dubbed Hyacinthus non-scriptus by the founder of binomial scientific naming, Carl Linnaeus. This genus is commonly known as hyacinths – an incredibly popular garden bulb. 50 years later, two German scientists changed the genus to Scilla, another bulb genus found across woodlands in Europe. Unfortunately, the scientific uncertainty didn’t stop there. Another 50 years later, a different German scientist transferred the plant to the Endymion genus. That’s why you may still find this plant under the names Endymion non-scriptus or Scilla non-scripta today. In 1934, French botanist Pierre Chouard changed the label to Hyacinthoides – literally meaning ‘like a hyacinth’ – where it remains today. Most wild bluebells are found across the United Kingdom and hold a rich history in this area. Several folklore stories have been passed down for generations, such as the belief that bluebell woodlands are inhabited by fairies. This also gave them the nickname fairy flowers. These folklore fairies are not known to play nice. According to legends, bluebells ring to call the fairies. If a human hears this bell, they will be visited by fairies and face an untimely death. Similarly, children with a desire to pick bluebells are warned that if they do, they will likely disappear, never to be seen again. Apart from these dark and twisted warnings, bluebells are beloved across the UK and in Europe – somewhat of an unofficial national flower. Walking through bluebell fields is a wonderful pastime. But, beware not to disturb the fairies, or face the consequences. While used as garden plants often, most bluebells are found in the wild. More than half of these wild bluebells can be found in woodlands around England. While their origin story is somewhat unclear, people believe these bluebell woodlands started springing up following the end of the last ice age. Due to their age – some are known to be hundreds of years old – these spaces are usually protected to prevent their decline. In some areas, these bulbs are considered endangered in their natural habitats. As a result, it is illegal to remove bluebell bulbs from the wild and plant them in your own garden or sell them off, according to the Wildlife and Countryside Act of the United Kingdom. While part of the same genus, English bluebells and Spanish bluebells are not the same plant. This distinction is important, as Spanish bluebells tend to be more invasive in some regions than their English counterparts. Both plants look quite similar but can be easily distinguished in spring by their flower type. English bluebell flowers are darker and curl over whereas Spanish bluebell flowers are lighter and remain upright. English bluebells are also slightly shorter than Spanish ones. It’s important to keep these two plants away from each other, or they will hybridize to form Hyacinthoides × massartiana. There are two ways to propagate bluebells: by sowing seeds or dividing bulbs. Propagating from seeds is the simplest method and provides the most natural look in the garden. Dividing is slightly more technical but produces quicker results.

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Platycodon Grandiflorus

Are you looking to plant balloon flowers in your garden? These perennials feature stunning, large flowers atop short or tall stems that will captivate any garden guests. Take a look at this article for absolutely everything you need to know to successfully grow these plants in your own backyard. When it comes to interesting flowering plants, balloon flowers are one of the first to come to mind. These adorable perennials are named after their blooms, with petals that expand to form a balloon shape before opening up into a star-shaped beauty. The petals are lined with darker veins that add even more interest to the stunning flowers. These plants are incredibly low-maintenance and will require little attention from you after planting. When planted en masse, they create waves of color in pots or throughout your garden beds. They are also ideal for mixed perennial plantings, complementing other flowers while standing out in their own right. There is little excuse not to plant one of these stunning plants this season. And, with several cultivars to choose from, you’re bound to find the right one for you.Balloon flowers are part of the Campanulaceae family, known as Platycodon grandifloras. They are the only member of the Platycodon genus, giving them the same common name. They are also known as Chinese bellflowers due to their country of origin. These plants may have originated in Asia, but they are now beloved garden plants around the world, growing in many home gardens. Their popularity is largely due to their interesting flowers, which slowly expand like balloons before ‘popping’ into star-like flowers with five petals. As blue is not a common flower color in the plant world, blue Chinese bellflowers with purple-ish hues are one of the most popular choices. But these interesting blooms also come in bright white and blush pink to suit any garden design. White platycondons can be found in the wild across Asia, and are especially popular in Korea. The roots are commonly used as a vegetable called doraji, eaten fresh and dried. It is also used to treat various illnesses, such as asthma and bronchitis.

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How to Plant, Grow, and Care For Daisy Fleabane

Are you considering planting some daisy fleabane near your home or in your garden? Daisy Fleabane goes by a few names and has some very unique health improving properties. In this article, you'll learn all about this beautiful plant and how to successfully grow and care for it. Daisy fleabane, also known as annual fleabane and eastern daisy fleabane, is much more than meets the eye. Incredibly hardy, native to almost all states in the United States, and herbaceous with powerful medicinal qualities. The daisy fleabane is a flower any gardener in the United States should consider, for a variety of different reasons. It’s easy to plant, and easy to care for. In fact, it’s considered a weed by many people all over the world. With delicate white petals and a golden center, it springs forth in early spring and can stick around until late fall. Its long flowering season and general hardiness make this plant an excellent pioneer species. Where it’s Found After wildfires or other major destructive events, the daisy fleabane is amongst the first to show up on the scene. You may see it growing in the charred fields of a once vibrant forest or the field of a recently chopped forest. In the city, it can be seen emerging from the cracks of abandoned parking lots, dotting the tracks of old railway lines, and growing triumphantly from the patch of barren earth where the sidewalk ends. Even amongst pioneer species, it’s strong. In its endemic North America (where it grows in 43 of the 48 contiguous United States), it often beats out invasive weeds in pioneering new growth. The plant’s strength against alien weeds makes it an excellent plant for low-impact wildflower gardens. This is a herbaceous plant with some medicinal properties. In addition to its use in homeopathic medicine, it also contains properties that can help reduce obesity. History and Cultivation This wildflower was once used to repel annoying bugs, though it has proven to be ineffective.The daisy fleabane has a rich and storied history, beginning before recorded history. The plant gets its name from its past utility. People in ages gone by used to dry the plant or burn it in small bags (called sachets) to ward off fleas, gnats, and all manner of annoying buzzing things. Although today it’s generally thought that this is an ineffective insect repellant, the name stands. This plant is a member of the aster family, a huge family of flowering plants with more than 23,000 members. Common and beloved relatives include sunflowers, marigolds, dahlias, and many, many more. As is the case with the other flowers of the aster family, the flower we call a daisy fleabane flower is many flowers clumped together. The outer ring of the fleabane’s golden center consists of a ring of “ray” flowers, each of which has one petal. These ray flowers’ laterally extended petals give the plant its characteristic look. Meanwhile, the disc flowers in the center have small tube petals that extend outward from the flower’s face. That fact that flower is many small flowers helps pollinators like bees to work very efficiently. It’s recognizable by most people, as these small but mighty flowers tend to spring up everywhere and in nearly all 48 of the contiguous United States. It has alternate, simple leaves with green stems. The stems are somewhat hairy, while the leaves are many. Compared to other aster plant species, it has dense foliage, with large leaves beginning at the base. These basal leaves are easily identified, as they are coarsely toothed or cleft and quite large. Leaves further up the stem, meanwhile, may not always be cleft. The flower head is white with a yellow center. The petals range from white to lavender, while the center florets are always a rich, vibrant yellow. Propagation Propagation is an excellent way to expand your garden. It’s a highly tolerant and hardy plant, which means even first-time gardeners typically experience success when attempting propagation. The two most common ways of propagating it are by division and by growing the plant from seeds. As we’ve mentioned above, daisy fleabane sends up many flowers at once when it is time for pollination season. This means that the plant clumps together in the growing season to help maximize pollination efficiency. Gardeners have long used division (dividing the clumps) to stimulate the plant’s growth and increase the size of their gardens. A less common but equally easy way for propagation is done with seeds.

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Blue Orchids: Are They Real Flowers?

Many gardeners look for that single flower that will set their garden apart from others. For some people, that's finding a flower of a unique color. Few flowers are more beautiful than orchids, and blue flowers are some of the most sought after. So what about blue orchids? Are these flowers actually real? Do they exist without being modified? The natural world is packed full of plants with a massive range of weird shapes and incredible colors. When it comes to flowers, one of the weirdest shapes has to be the ever-popular orchid, a plant so beloved that it has spawned thousands (possibly millions) of fanatics and fan clubs across the world. When it comes to color, the one gardeners always seem to look out for is blue. Blue is curiously absent in the natural world, leading us to covet any plants with a tinge of blue. So, what happens when you put these two things together? You get blue orchids – a very rare and captivating phenomenon shrouded in mystery. Do true blue orchids really exist? Are blue orchid flowers real? Let’s find out. Blue flowers are a rare find in the natural world. Only a small proportion of all known plants around the world contain blue pigments. Others may look slightly blue, but are actually purple, or only have a blue coating that makes them appear that color. Only 10% of flowering plants are blue, making it a rare and coveted color. The key to this rarity is an organic compound called delphinidin. Delphinidin is an anthocyanidin, or plant pigment, that makes some flowers like delphiniums blue. It is also present in grapes, cranberries and pomegranates. That doesn’t mean flowers can’t become blue. With some genetic alteration or hybridization, many cultivars of popular plants now produce blue flowers. However, they won’t be blue if found in the wild, and plants grown from seeds of that same plant will likely produce different colored flowers. In other cases, flowers may appear blue with other modifications like dye or paint. Some of these are obvious, such as paint that has a certain unnatural texture. But dyed flowers usually appear quite real and are often marketed as ‘rare’ blue flowers to unsuspecting customers. Are There True Blue Orchids? With all these factors to consider, the important question is – do true blue orchids exist? And the answer is a definite yes. And a no, but we’ll get to that later. There are very few orchid species that are blue in color, but they do exist. Most are very rare, meaning you won’t find them in your local garden center – if you ever come across them at all. One is more widely available than the other, but is still quite hard to find and very difficult to care for. Thelymitra Crinite The Blue Lady orchid originates in Australia. For an example of a rare blue orchid found in the wild, we have the Blue Lady orchid, Thelymitra crinite. This orchid is native to a small southwestern area of Western Australia. It is probably the bluest orchid around, and possibly one of the bluest flowers you can find. There is no mistaking the color of this adorable, delicate flower. Many ‘blue’ flowers lean more towards purple, either light or dark, but this one is 100% blue. It grows along coastal areas or around forests, sometimes near swamps. It is quite common in the small region of Australia it grows in, not endangered or too rare, but it is almost impossible to find and difficult to purchase anywhere else in the world. Vanda coerulea Blue Vanda orchids are the most well-known and have a purplish-blue hue. The most well-known blue orchid, and one you may have a chance of spotting, is Blue Vanda or Vanda coerulea. Unfortunately, as they are so sought after, you may have to join in on a bidding war, pry it from another buyer’s hands, or steal one to actually get the chance to grow and keep one. Vanda coerulea was first discovered in 1837 by botanist Dr. William Griffith in Northeast India. He found this stunning blue flower along the river valleys south of the eastern Himalayas and decided to bring it back to England to study. Unfortunately, the nature of this finicky flower meant it died on the journey. Another botanist made the same discovery several years later, Joseph Dalton Hooker. This discovery was described in a quote from the book The Enchanted Orchid: “Near the village of Larnac, oak woods are passed in which Vanda coerulea grows in profusion, waving its panicles of azure blue in the wind. We collected seven men’s loads of this superb plant for the Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew, but owing to unavoidable accidents and difficulties, few specimens reached England alive.” Joseph Dalton Hooker – The Enchanted Orchid Since then, the plant has been further studied and found in areas from this region all the way to south-eastern China. This vanda orchid is native to Asia, found in parts of India, Myanmar, Thailand and China. It has delicate, narrow-petaled flowers that stand large and proud on tall flower spikes. They typically attach themselves to small trees with little foliage, sporting 20-30 flower spikes with long-lasting blooms. Due to its blue hue, this species is used by botanists and horticulturalists to develop new blue orchid cultivars. Studies have shown the flowers can also be used in eye drops to treat eye problems like glaucoma. The compounds within the flower are also believed to have anti-aging properties. Are There Other Blue Orchids? The Phalaenopsis is actually a white orchid with blue dye injected into the plant. You may be surprised to find only two orchids on this list. You may be even more surprised to hear about their rarity if you’ve come across many blue orchids in stores near you. But, as pretty as they are and as realistic as they may look, the commonly found blue orchids – usually phalaenopsis – are not actually blue. They appear blue thanks to the blue dye injected into the stem of the plant. As the plant takes up water with this dye, the flowers turn a shade of blue within a couple of hours. You can usually spot dyed orchids if you look closely. The color of the flowers will appear unevenly distributed. They may also be a very vivid blue or an intense pastel blue that isn’t found in any orchids, let alone phalaenopsis. The original flowers are usually white in color, which allows the dye to completely take over. This dye will stick around in the flowers until they fall off. Any flowers that emerge after that will be white – the original color. This may seem like a harmless practice to some, but it can trick unsuspecting gardeners into paying far more for a plant that is, underneath all the dye, a regular phalaenopsis orchid. For example, a few years ago, a blue phalaenopsis orchid called Blue Mystique was marketed as the first-ever blue phalaenopsis. That drove up the price of the plant, with many purchasing it in excitement, only to find that the new blooms emerging from the plant were white with no hint of blue in sight. Any blue orchid you come across at your local store will likely be a dyed blue orchid. Keep an eye out at specialist orchid growers for true blue orchids like Blue Vanda if you want the real thing. Are The Flowers Real? While Phalaenopsis orchids are real, you won’t find them this color in nature. The dyed orchids – not just in blue but in many other vivid colors – lead some to believe the flowers are not real. However, that isn’t the case. They are 100% real flowers, they just aren’t naturally occurring flowers. The plant still functions as any other phalaenopsis does, requiring the same care. They need a root drench approximately once per week, bright indirect light and regular applications of fertilizer to grow successfully. If you want the plant to flower again – even though the flowers might not be blue – you’ll need to cut back the flower stalks and ensure it is in the right temperature and humidity conditions. The same goes for any dyed orchids you come across in stores. These plants and their flowers are still completely real, they just look slightly different from how they exist naturally, without human intervention. Final Thoughts Blue orchids are absolutely stunning, unlike any other orchid on the market. Unfortunately, they are usually not naturally grown that way. Most we see in person are merely dyed blue, even if they aren’t marketed as such. However, that doesn’t mean they don’t exist in nature. The Blue Vanda orchid is the most common, but Thelymitra Crinite also sports a blue hue out in the wild bound to catch any passer-by’s eye.

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Astilbe Care: Plumes Of Brilliant Flowers

Proper astilbe care will produce a display of gorgeous astilbe flowers to brighten your garden spaces! Our guide reveals our top tips.As gardeners, we aim to provide beauty to our world and sustenance to the many insects that live around us. We are always on the lookout for ornamental plants that attract pollinators and look gorgeous too. Thus, we dedicate this article to astilbe care: everything you need to know about it and how to grow it in your own shade garden. Astilbe has plume-like flowers and glossy green foliage that brightens up the flower garden. It’s a superb choice because it’s virtually trouble-free and easy to grow astilbe. Since it’s one of the best shade-tolerant plants you can plant astilbe in porch planters, under trees, and along part shade borders to add interest to your space. Not only do they attract bees, but butterflies and hummingbirds love the plumage and this compact plant is resistant to deer and rabbits. Plus, they look great when planted with other ornamentals such as peonies, daylilies, and many iris varieties. The name astilbe means “without brilliance”, but because of hybridization they are anything but dull in these modern times. You can find a variety of colors within this species that are related to hydrangea and bergenia. Now that you are as excited as we are about astilbe, let’s go into more detail about this lovely ornamental. The botanical name is Astilbe spp. and there are at least 16 astilbe varieties of this herbaceous perennial. Other common names are false goat’s beard and false spirea. They are native to Eastern Asia and North America and are known for their beautiful foliage. Gardeners especially love the contrasting deep purple to magenta flowers. They have fern-like foliage with dark green leaves with thick stems and showy flowers that range in color from white to purple. Bridal Veil astilbe showcases pure white flower spikes with contrasting dark green foliage. Each plume has multiple tiny flowers, with early blooming from early summer into early fall. The ideal location for these ornamentals is in the shade garden where they are protected from hot weather- avoid planting in full sun. You can grow different varieties to receive a multitude of colorful blooms throughout the summer. Or for a compact version that grows to a max of 2 feet tall is the Chinese astilbe (Astilbe chinensis). Since astilbes are a symbol of patience and dedication, they are frequently given to others as a declaration of love. The best time of year to plant astilbes is the spring once the danger of frost has passed. If you are dividing an existing astilbe, you can do this in the spring or fall when the plant isn’t putting too much energy into growing. You’ll want to pick a location that has partial shade to full shade. If you choose a location in full sun, your astilbe may not thrive if your environment is too hot. However, if you plant astilbe in full shade it may not receive enough light to produce its brightly colored flowers, but it will have attractive foliage. Another option is to grow astilbe in containers and garden beds, as long as it receives plenty of moisture and the soil drains well. Providing nutrients throughout the season will also ensure they remain attractive. You can grow it from seed, buy a plant from a local nursery, or divide existing plants. Now that you have a better idea about this shade-loving perennial, you may wonder how and if you can grow the astilbe plant in your own shade garden. This section covers all the growing requirements of astilbe to get you started. Generally, astilbe prefers light or part shade but will tolerate full sun in northern zones as long as they get shade in the afternoon. The dark green foliage will grow well in deep shade but in order to get lovely flowers, they will need at least 4-6 hours of sunlight per day. Depending on the variety, the growing zones for this ornamental are USDA zones 3-8. That being said, the ideal growing temperature is between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They don’t thrive in an environment that experiences extreme cold or heat. In the winter months, provide a layer of mulch around the crown to protect it and the roots after you have pruned it for the season. Water your astilbe in the morning to give it plenty of moisture for the warmth of the day. You’ll want to keep the soil moist, but not soggy – they dislike it when the soil becomes dry and you will know this if the leaves curl and droop. Astilbe is not drought tolerant, but some varieties such as the Chinese astilbe (Astilbe chinensis) have better drought tolerance than others. Water deeply at least once per week (more often if it is especially hot), and apply mulch to help hold in the moisture- dry soil will affect the plants. Water at the bottom of the plant to prevent water from splashing on the foliage, which could encourage fungal diseases. Continue to water until the ground freezes and then prepare the plant for winter. Astilbe plants prefer well-drained soil, high in organic material. The organic matter improves soil moisture and prevents it from drying out during hot summer months. They do not thrive in heavy, clay soils and prefer a slightly acidic pH of 6.0. If your soil contains more clay, add extra organic content such as peat moss, perlite, or coarse sand to improve the drainage. Astilbe plants are heavy feeders, and will need plenty of nutrients throughout the growing season to remain healthy and to produce beautiful flower heads. The best time of year to fertilize is in the spring with a slow-release balanced organic fertilizer that has an NPK ratio of 3-1-2 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Amend the garden soil regularly through the season with compost, and in the late summer feed with a high nitrogen fertilizer. As the flowers fade in the fall, you can leave them in place for winter interest if you live in a warmer climate. For those that experience a harsher winter, we recommend pruning your astilbe plants to help them survive the cold months. Cut all the foliage off within 3 inches from the top of the soil. After the first hard freeze, mulch around the plant to protect the roots. New foliage will grow in the spring. There are three methods for propagating astilbe: starting astilbe seeds, dividing existing plants, or by stem cuttings. Each one has its advantages and disadvantages with some being more preferred over others. Starting seeds is a fun method, but will take the longest because astilbe are relatively slow-growing plants. You can collect seeds from any current astilbe plants you have, but aged seeds have the highest germination rate. Alternately, purchase seeds from a local seed company, starting them indoors at least 8 weeks before the last frost. You want your transplants to be large enough to tolerate outdoor temperatures, usually late spring. Mature astilbe plants benefit from division, so if you already have some in your garden, division is a great option. Divide either in the early spring or late fall when the plants aren’t putting a lot of energy into growing. Water the existing plant generously to make it easier to dig up the root ball. Once the root ball is exposed, divide clumps into sections. Dig holes that are double the size of each section to be planted and amend the soil with compost. Water the divisions well to prevent shock. The last method of propagation is by stem cuttings, but it is the least popular. This can be done anytime during the growing season, but choose stems that are free from flower buds. Cut the stem above a leaf node, remove ⅓ of the lower leaves and place the stem into prepared soil or root them in a container. Keep the cutting soil moist but not soggy and allow at least 3 weeks for the plant to root.

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Bluestar Flowers

Amsonia Tabernaemontana, also known as Bluestars can be a beautiful flowering plant addition to just about any garden. They do contain a milky sap that can be toxic and irritating to humans, but otherwise get along well with many other plants within your garden.Gardens are a peaceful sanctuary for most, offering a litany of calming colors, shapes, and textures. Nothing is quite as calming as Amsonia plants, with their quaint, soft blue star-shaped flowers. Aptly called Bluestars, these dainty blooms sit atop long stems in fluffy clusters, adding a peaceful airiness to your landscape. When these flowers pop up in late spring, your garden will be treated with the truest of calming blues. Spring isn’t the only time this stunning plant shows off though, adding interest to your garden throughout the year. Amsonia’s graceful foliage is bright green throughout the blooming season, offsetting its lovely blue flowers. As the months grow colder, the foliage fades into a brilliant golden yellow, ensuring your garden sanctuary stays in tune with the fall mood. On top of all these benefits, Bluestars are an incredibly easy plant to care for. This of course only adds to its peaceful nature and makes it an ideal plant for all types of gardeners. They look most at home in cottage-style gardens but will work in most garden settings, adding its dust of peace no matter where it’s planted. Amsonia plants are named after renowned English physician Dr. John Amson. He settled in Virginia during the mid-1700s and later befriended the distinguished British botanist John Clayton. Clayton was most famous for his works on New World flora and for naming this genus after his friend. The genus is made up of a variety of species, with many only being discovered in the 20th century. Some varieties have even been discovered in eastern Asia and the Mediterranean. Amsonia tabernaemontana is the most common in North America, growing natively along the edges of wetlands and across forest floors. One of the most recent discoveries is the A. hubrichtii, which was first discovered in 1942 and named after its finder, Leslie Hurbicht. No matter the variety and the slight differences each holds, Amsonias make a great accent plant and are favorites for cottage-style gardens. Their soft blue flowers make spring feel even fresher, while its changing foliage keeps up with the ever-changing seasons. Amsonias are non-invasive and attract a wonderful amount of butterflies and other pollinators. You’ll often see their soft blue flowers peeking through in butterfly gardens. They’re also relatively deer and drought resistant. As an added bonus, Amsonias are low on the pest and disease-attracting list. The only downside with this plant is that its milky sap can be mildly toxic and irritating to humans and house pets. As long as you keep them away from prying fingers and paws, you’ll get to enjoy their beauty year-round without trouble. Propagating can be done in a few ways, either by sowing seeds or taking cuttings. You can also propagate by division, but it’s the most impractical and difficult method when it comes to Bluestars. Propagating by cutting yields the best results and helps retain chosen species characteristics. Sowing seeds is second best, but results may vary, giving you a stunning Bluestar that has little similarity to the parent plant. Over and above that, propagating by seed can be a slow process.

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The Vanilla Orchid

The vanilla orchid is beautiful, but do you know how to grow vanilla beans from that lovely plant? We delve into this complex topic!One of the most beloved flavors in the world is vanilla. Vanilla extract is essential for baking, and it’s a lovely flavor for most confections. This leaves a lot of gardeners wondering how to grow vanilla at home. Vanilla bean plants are lovely climbing orchids that host vanilla beans with patience. But growing vanilla bean plants isn’t as simple as planting seeds and watching them take off. A vanilla orchid has specific needs, based on the native habitat of vanilla orchids altogether. You may already have some idea of what growing orchids is like, but don’t let that discourage you! It’s possible to grow a vanilla bean plant in a controlled environment. With so many different types, you can have vanilla flavoring of many kinds. Your own vanilla seed pods will taste that much better when you’ve done the planning and work of caring for a vanilla bean orchid. Let’s cover caring for vanilla plants, and the different varieties out there. You’ll be on your way to growing your own vanilla pods in no time. This piece covers the two most popular cultivars of vanilla plants: Vanilla planifolia and Vanilla tahitensis. These are commonly referred to as Vanilla, vanilla orchid, flat-leaf vanilla, or West Indian vanilla. Vanilla tahitensis originates from southern North America where Aztec peoples hybridized two varieties into one. Vanilla planifolia is native to Guatemala, Mexico, and Belize. Both were transferred to Europe via Spanish conquistadors in the years 1300-1500. These are vines that use trees for support. They grow in a tropical climate under rainforest lower canopies. The vines zig-zag and have elliptic leaves. After a few years of vanilla vine growth, a greenish, yellow, or white flower forms. The flower lasts only one day. In this small window, self-fertile flowers pollinate. If no pollination occurs, the flowers drop. As the climbing vine matures a few years and pollination is successful, the fruit begins to form. They first resemble small 6 to 9-inch bananas that take about 6 months to mature. Aged pods are harvested and cured for extraction. Usually, the entire pod is macerated and distilled in alcohol for flavoring. Some scrape the inside of the pod and use real vanilla to flavor all kinds of culinary confections. Most of the plants used for growing vanilla extract come from Madagascar, Tahiti, and Mexico. It can only be cultivated in the wild at 10-20 degrees north and south of the equator. In captivity, it is necessary to hand pollinate. Here are a few of the varieties commonly cultivated by curious gardeners who are up for the challenge. West Indian Vanilla (Vanilla pompona): a lovely plant with large glossy green leaves and long thin stems up to 5 meters long. Native to Mexico, and South Tropical America. Bunches of fragrant flowers open in succession and produce long pods. Flat-leaved vanilla (Vanilla planifolia): one of the largest plants, this cultivar grows up to 30 meters. It prefers a swamp habitat or tropical environment. Tahitian Vanilla (Vanilla tahitensis): native to Tahiti, this vanilla bean plant has yellowish-green flowers that produce broader, more squat pods than West Indian. This is one of the most common vanilla bean plant cultivars, and the vanilla extract has a flavor distinct from other varieties. Leafless Vanilla (Vanilla aphylla): native to Southeast Asia, this vanilla bean plant has clusters of three to four flowers that bloom in spring and summer. Unlike other cultivars, leafless vanilla has no foliage. Flowers grow directly from internodes situated evenly on vines. Mexican Vanilla (Vanilla mexicana): this vanilla bean is native to Central Florida, Mexico, and areas of Central and South America. One of the most common varieties, it grows squat and short at less than 2 feet in length. Unless you live in a region where tropical conditions exist year-round, you’ll want to have a controlled environment for your vanilla plant. If you live in Southern Florida, the base of a tree in an area where there is bright filtered shade in the afternoon might work. In all other regions, plant vanilla plants in small pots with an orchid potting mix. Make sure your orchid has a pole to climb or some kind of support system for upward mobility. The container and potting medium need adequate drainage, as orchids of this kind do not like to be waterlogged. Use a sanitized cutting implement, and remove ⅓ of the bottom roots. Then, plant the rest of the plant and add your stake, pole, or whatever you will use to train your vanilla plants.

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Aster Flowering Plants

Are you looking for a bit of fall color in your garden beds? Asters are your answer. These stunning perennials are popular across North America, especially in pollinator gardens. Plant one variety, or choose several of the hundreds in this genus and plant family for a garden full of wildlife and color throughout summer and fall.Asters are a genus of plants with captivating star-shaped flowers that carpet garden landscapes throughout fall. Asters are easy to grow and are one of the few plants that flower reliably in the cooler season. This can help extend the color of spring and summer longer than most other perennials. These plants are also low maintenance and produce masses of flowers with very little effort. The flowers come in a wide range of colors, from softer blues and purples to bright, luminescent red. They also attract a wide range of pollinators and are beloved by bees when the other flowers in your garden die down. With a choice of over 600 plants (either part of the aster genus or previously part of the aster genus still known as asters, but we’ll clear up that confusion later), there is an aster out there for every gardener. Fill your beds and containers with these lively plants for fall interest and a garden full of pollinators for years to come. The name aster derives from the Ancient Greek for ‘star’, describing the star-like shape of the flowers. While there isn’t much known about the origins and spread of this popular plant, we do know when they gained their popularity. Around the 18th century, when plant collecting and studies were beginning to take off, botanists traveled the world in search of new and interesting plant varieties. Asters fell high on that list due to their variety and stunning flowers. Brought back to Europe from North America, Asters perfectly suited the wilder, more informal cottage garden style exploding around Victorian England. The flowers were grown across the country, becoming somewhat of an obsession. The plants were hybridized and cross-bred to create the dramatic diversity in color and size we have today. Aster can be a confusing genus. Up until the 1990s, asters comprised over 600 species of plants. That number has since been reduced to around 180 due to the reclassification of some of the plants. Some flowers previously known as asters are now labeled Eucephalus, Oreostemma, or Symphyotrichum, among many others. However, don’t let the botanical naming conventions confuse you. Most of these plants are still commonly known as asters, even if they aren’t technically part of the aster genus. They also all have similar growing conditions and care requirements, depending on the cultivar. There are several ways to propagate asters, each producing relatively reliable results. For those who want full control of the growing process, start by growing from seed. Existing plants with plenty of growth can be divided after a few years. Alternatively, you can steal a few cuttings from your neighbors garden (prior permission recommended) and propagate that way.

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Society Garlic: Not Really Garlic, But Great

Society garlic is a garlic-scented, almost garlic-flavored bulbing plant... but it's not really garlic. Learn how to grow it with our guide!Do you enjoy growing edible perennials? Maybe you love garlic chives for their flavor and pollinator-attracting prowess. Or maybe you’d like to add a splash of color to one of your herb gardens. If this description suits you, look no further than society garlic! A society garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) plant is a great addition to gardens managed by those with different plant tastes. Wildcrafters love using the leaves and flowers in salads and just as they would use wild garlic. Regenerative agriculture nuts love it because its hardy tuberous roots withstand almost any soil type. Society garlic does not attract pests or pathogens that spread disease. It thrives in bright sunlight and hot weather. And get this: it won’t give you bad breath when you eat it, like garlic will. Even though it loves summer, it’s winter hardy, meaning a long growing season is at hand. Society garlic, Tulbaghia violacea, is also known as pink agapanthus, spring bulbs, and sweet garlic. The common name society garlic comes from its ability to flavor a dish without the undesirable fallout of bad breath. This clump-forming herbaceous perennial is native to South Africa and has been naturalized in Tanzania and Mexico. Most people in America know of society garlic plants for their clumping, green straplike foliage which branch out below fragrant (sometimes pungent) lavender colored flowers. Flowers are tuberous and grow in clusters. The flower color ranges from white to pink to purple. Some varieties have multi-colored blooms of purple and white. Their tuberous roots need to be established before society garlic flowers can be separated and eaten. Interestingly, people who eat society garlic don’t come away with bad breath, even though the lavender-pink flowers smell as strong as skunk in the hot summer sun. Get it going, and you’ll be able to enjoy this clump-forming herbaceous perennial for at least three years. Flower stalks are topped by tubular flowers that reach up to 3 feet tall. Each lavender flower has six petals that cluster above narrow leaves. Society garlic isn’t garlic. It exists in the same family as garlic and onions (the Amaryllis family), and lies in the same genus as other tuberous South African plants which are very similar. Unlike regular garlic and onions, it grows quickly, with seeds that sprout within one to two weeks. However, it takes a year or two to bloom. It’s used in soups, salads, and dishes just as garlic chives would be used. All parts (including roots) lend spice to any culinary endeavor. Tubers have been used medicinally by people in Africa to treat many ailments. Zulu people in KwaZulu-Natal province have used the plant to season meat and potato dishes. They also plant society garlic around the edge of their homes to keep snakes out. And the same genus name comes from the governor of the Cape of Good Hope in Eastern South Africa in the 1700s (Rijk Tulbagh).

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