Gardening

Newly-Planted Trees: 5 Watering Tips

Early spring is tree planting season, and we are getting ready to add some of our favorites to the garden. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to discuss when you should water those new trees and how much they need. Early spring is an ideal time for planting new trees in your yard. Planting in spring means that your new tree has ample time to set down roots and adapt to its new location before next winter. It also gives it some time to adjust before the heat of summer, which can cause stress to many plants. The best time to put new trees in the ground is while they are still dormant. For many, this means late winter, as soon as the ground is workable. In warmer climates, you can plant your trees even earlier, as long as you’re able to dig a hole. Whatever the time of year, new trees need some special care considerations. Perhaps the most important care these young plants need is consistent and appropriate watering. Water is necessary for root development, and it helps buffer the shock of transplanting. It’s vital to establish a routine that addresses your tree’s needs from the time of planting through the end of its first year. Your irrigation regularity will shift a few times over the span of that first year. The most important stage is the first few weeks, but even once your plant comes out of dormancy and starts putting out new growth, it will continue to need special consideration. Let’s take a look at how your irrigation routine should evolve over the coming year. Transplanting a tree is a stressful event, and water is a key factor in minimizing that stress. It’s vital to help your plant acclimate to its new home. Another important factor in root development is the soil. Compacted soil is tougher for those roots to break through. Looser soil promotes better development. When you plant your tree, make sure to water it the day before. Dig a hole that is as deep and at least twice as wide as the root ball. This loosens the ground directly around the ball, allowing for good root development. Water the hole before placing your tree. Fill the hole with water, and then plant your tree and backfill with soil. Immediately after planting, water deeply, soaking the ground. If the water prompts the soil to sink slightly, add more soil to the sunken area. Deep watering means deep roots. Cover the ground around the trunk with a thick layer of mulch to protect the roots and help retain moisture. You don’t want the soil to dry out completely while the plant is acclimating. Leave a few inches of space between the mulch and the trunk so it will form a sort of doughnut. This reservoir will hold water in place so it can absorb rather than running off. It also keeps pests and diseases from sitting against the trunk. This next category covers about two to three weeks, and it’s a vital time to keep up with care. Your plant will need moisture, consistently during this time. The amount of rainfall will naturally change the frequency that you need to water. The general rule is every day to every other day for the first few weeks. If you get a significant amount of rainfall, you can adjust this. But, significant means at least one inch. Otherwise, make sure you stay on top of it. This is the most vital time in reducing stress and helping your tree to recover from transplanting. For the first season after planting, you’ll need to continue watering regularly. If you planted in the spring, that means you should follow this guideline for about 12 weeks, until early summer. During this time, you can reduce from every day to once every two to three days. You want to thoroughly soak the ground, reaching all the way down past the roots of your plant. Go slowly so that all the moisture absorbs into the ground rather than running off. A good way to do this is to wet the ground first. If the earth is too dry, it won’t be as absorbent. After wetting the root zone and allowing that to soak in, set your hose to a slow stream and lay it on the ground. Allow the water to soak that area, and then move it around the tree’s dripline to ensure moisture gets to the entire root system. From here, we move on to the duration of the year. It may seem like three months is enough to get your tree acclimated. But it truly takes closer to a year for the roots to grow into the surrounding earth. Once this happens, and they grow deeper, they will find water more easily. If you planted in spring, I recommend watering regularly through the summer. The general rule is once per week after the first 12 weeks, but summer weather should dictate frequency. If you get a lot of rain in the summer, once per week should be plenty. My Florida summers are hot and can be dry during some years. In this event, it’s good to water anytime the ground is dry. Don’t underestimate the value of mulch to retain moisture in the earth. Mulch is quite beneficial to your new plants, and old ones, too. As you move into fall, you can reduce to once per week unless you’re getting regular precipitation. As the weather cools off and your tree begins to enter dormancy, it will require and use fewer resources. Reduce watering to once every two weeks for the remaining months. It can take up to two years for your tree to establish a strong root system. Don’t make the mistake of giving up early and expecting the second year to be maintenance-free. Make sure you pay attention to moisture levels and supplement when you need to, throughout that second year. As with most things in gardening, there are exceptions to consider. Different environmental factors should influence your routines and decisions when it comes to watering. Your soil composition plays a starring role in watering. Not all types offer the same water retention, which can be good and bad. The ideal type of soil for most plants is loamy and well-draining. If you have a lot of clay or sand to contend with, you’ll need to factor that into your schedule. Clay-heavy ground tends to compact easily, and though it can absorb and contain a lot of moisture, drainage is often an issue. Overwatering can be as harmful as underwatering because it often leads to root rot. If you have poor drainage, reduce watering accordingly. Conversely, sand has the opposite issue. It drains quickly and doesn’t have good retention. It’s difficult to overwater your plants if you have soil with a high sand content. Naturally, rain is an influencing factor here because if you get a lot of rain, you won’t need to water as frequently or as much. Remember that one-inch rule. If you get less than one inch of rain in the interval between waterings, you need to take action. That means for newly planted trees, one inch of rain every two to three days for the first 12 weeks would be necessary. Heat and sun exposure are also important factors to consider. Heat and sun influence evaporation. If it’s very hot outside, the soil will dry faster, and you’ll want to compensate. This is why I say that if you planted in spring, you may want to continue watering frequently through the summer. We addressed this to a degree when talking about soil composition, but there are other things that can influence drainage. For example, if you are at the top of a hill, chances are you will have better drainage than someone at the bottom of a valley. Water flows downward, so low-lying spaces need less frequent watering, and vice-versa.

Sago Palm Trees

Sago palms are a striking tropical with a rosette of fronded leaves. In the garden or as a houseplant, they make a long-lasting feature. Garden expert Katherine Rowe explores how to incorporate the handsome and historic specimen into your collection. Sago palms feature a whorl of evergreen leaves that form a rosette of dark green fronds. A staple of southern and coastal gardens, the tropicals thrive in warm climates with only short spells of below-freezing temperatures. They’re also easy-care houseplants, making them versatile across growing zones for overwintering indoors. Sagos belong to the ancient family Cycadaceae, with pre-historic origins some 200 million years ago, before dinosaurs walked the earth. Sagos aren’t true palms but cycads, more closely related to conifers than palms. But, their feathery fronds are palm-like nonetheless and make a stately accent in the border, along foundations, and as container features. The ancient genus holds about 100 species, with sagos as the most common. Cycas revoluta are long-lived and very slow-growing, reaching their maximum height in 50 years or more. Young plants take several years to reach two to three feet tall and wide. Some of the oldest species are over 200 years old. Originating in Japan’s subtropical southern islands, they lend a tropical flair and contrasting texture among other broadleaf plantings. The cycads are Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit recipients for their multi-season appeal, minimal maintenance requirements, and pest and disease resistance. Their fine texture adds interest and contrast among mixed plantings in a foundation or shrub border. Pair them with other tropicals like fatsia, farfugium, philodendron, cast iron plant, and dwarf palmettos for a diverse arrangement in partially shaded areas. They’re handsome among tailored compositions like boxwoods and with dwarf cypress, gardenias, and azaleas. Sagos also stand alone in containers flanking a front porch, kept small in indoor pots, or for bonsai. The dominant features of the cycad are its long, symmetrical, whorled leaves that emerge from a central crown and a shaggy trunk. The stems reach 20 to 60 inches long and hold slender leaflets that create a fronded look. Dark green, stiff, and highly polished, three to six-inch long leaflets line the arching stems with perfect spacing. The needled leaflets are attractive all year on sturdy and strong stems. Each leaflet has a spiny tip, so make sure they’re out of the way in high-traffic areas to avoid a poke. Sagos are gymnosperms, meaning they don’t produce flowers but a cone-like structure for reproduction and fruiting. They’re dioecious, requiring both a male and female plant for pollination to produce seeds. Bees and other insects visit each plant and transfer pollen from the male to the female as they go. Wind, too, disperses granules between plants to promote seeding. Sagos have ancient reproductive characteristics, where the male produces a central golden cone in late spring to early summer. Females have a fuzzy flowerhead that becomes packed with seeds. The bright orange or red seeds mature by fall. Indoors, cone production is less common. Sagos are toxic to people and pets if ingested, especially the seeds. Use caution in placement indoors or out with pets or children nearby, and use gloves when pruning, dividing offsets, or harvesting seeds. Cycas revoluta is native to the Japanese island of Kyushu, the Ryukyu archipelago, and southern China. They grow in thickets along hillsides. The islands are humid, sunny, and subtropical, with rainy seasons and typhoons. They experience warm summers and cool, moist winters. Fall and spring are the best times for planting. Cool temperatures and seasonal moisture give plants time to establish before winter and summer temperature fluctuations. For the least stress, avoid frozen or waterlogged conditions and extreme heat or drought periods. When planting, space the trees four to six feet apart to allow room for mature growth. Keep them out of overly windy spaces to protect foliage and stems; under a tree canopy or with a shrub buffer helps. The slow-growing cycads perform beautifully in a container and seldom need repotting. They prefer to be a little root-bound to produce new shoots. Refresh potting soil or move them to bigger quarters every few years. A well-draining potting mix is essential, and one for palms or cacti works well.

Melaleuca Quinquenervia

Thinking of adding a Melaleuca Tree to your home landscape or garden area? This tree can be considered invasive due to it's extremely fast growth rates, and quickly expanding roots. You'll want to consider all the facts before adding one of these trees to your home or garden. Find out all you need to know about planting, growing, and caring for this majestic tree.Have you been eyeing the Melaleuca Quinquenervia also known as “Paperbark” to spruce up your garden? Well, this guide tells you everything that you need to know to plant, grow and care for the Australian native Melaleuca tree. The history of the plant will get explained along with the best conditions to facilitate growth. Because this tree is a special case when it comes to its status as an invasive species, we’ve also answered some frequently asked questions regarding the Melaleuca Quinquenervia. If you can look past any hazards, or if you live in an area that is unaffected by the tree, no worries! By the end of the article, you will be ready to plant, grow and care for your very own Melaleuca tree!The term invasive species describes any species which presents a significant threat to native habitats and species throughout the country. Moreover, these invasive species are costly for agriculture, forestry, and recreation. Trees that have become invasive have typically spread outside of their natural ranges by human means. When a species of tree is not native to an ecosystem, and it gets determined that their presence will harm the environment or the economy, it is deemed invasive.

Indoor Palm Trees

Palm trees add tropical energy to your space, and potting them makes them great for anyone, including those living in cold climates. Florida gardener Melissa Strauss talks about how and when to fertilize them to keep those vacation vibes strong. There’s no denying that palm trees make popular potted plants. These large tropical plants can transport us to an island paradise without leaving the house. There are many beautiful types of palms that thrive in containers and make nice patio or houseplants. Palms are typically considered to be heavy feeders. They need a steady and substantial supply of nutrients available for their use, especially during their growing season. Potted plants typically require more fertilizing than their grounded counterparts. It stands to reason, as there is less substance to hold those nutrients. If you want a strong, beautiful, healthy tree, it’s important to provide the necessary nutrients. This can be a challenge with the type of soil these plants prefer and the small amount of nutrients it can hold. Let’s talk about the different factors that will make fertilizing your potted palms a seamless and successful process. While all palms need roughly the same composition and amount of fertilizer, it’s always good to know what type you have. Once you know the species, discover the native habitat of your tree and what type of environment it naturally grows in. I like to do this with every plant, as it gives me a better idea of what temperatures it thrives in. It will help you to understand other aspects of care, such as soil type, nutrient needs, and humidity requirements. While this information won’t make a great difference in how much and with what you’ll want to fertilize, it’s still helpful to know. Having your plant in the right potting mix and environment will all contribute to its overall health. Providing your palm with the right soil type and container will go a long way toward keeping it happy. These plants have thin, fibrous roots rather than central tap roots. The root system is dense and spreads out horizontally rather than running deep into the soil. So, how does this influence soil and container type? First, you’re better off with a container that is wider than it is deep. This accommodates the root system, which naturally wants to spread out wider to support the weight of the tree. Choose a container that is wider than the root ball. In terms of soil, a sandy loam is ideal for most. Those fine, fibrous roots are sensitive to wet soil, so the potting mix needs excellent drainage. Mixing some large particles into the mix is another helpful thing to do. Your soil should be loose so that those delicate roots can easily expand through it. Still, it’s best to know what type of soil is needed for the type of palm you have. Palms planted outdoors and in the ground need fertilizing about three times per year. Once in the spring, once in the summer, and again in the fall. Because of the limited amount of nutrients a potted plant has access to, it’s important to fertilize more frequently. Your palm will enter a growth phase in the spring, which is when it’s important to begin. Fertilize every two to four weeks in the spring and summer. If you use a slow-release formula, once every two to three months should provide all it needs. If not, once or twice monthly should be adequate. In the fall, fall back a bit, but don’t stop completely. You can reduce it to once a month with a regular formula. A single application of slow release in the fall should be just right. Stop applying in the winter, as the tree needs a dormant period to rest when daylight hours decrease. When your plant is dormant, it cannot absorb the same amount of water or nutrients, so you should reduce both to avoid root damage. Indoor palm tree fertilizers are not difficult to find if you want to purchase a formula created specifically for these plants. If you want a more all-purpose formula, look for one with higher nitrogen and potassium. Those are the first and last numbers in the N-P-K formula. A ratio of 12-4-12 or 8-2-12 is a good place to start. Make sure that you choose a fertilizer with important micronutrients, as well. Palms need plenty of iron, copper, manganese, zinc, and boron to stay healthy. Whether you choose a liquid soluble or slow-release is a matter of personal preference; they are both effective. Water your plant before and after fertilizing. Fertilizing already moistened soil helps to prevent fertilizer burn. It also helps the plant to absorb those important nutrients, rather that having them sit solely in the soil. Giving too many nutrients while a plant is dormant can have the same effect as giving too much during a growth period. Because the plant can’t absorb and utilize all the nutrients you’ve given it, it sits on the outside of the roots. During dormancy, your plants take in less of all resources. The daylight hours decrease, which signals dormancy. Then, all systems slow down. Water and nutrients follow, becoming less important. Watering too much during this time can invite fungi that cause root rot. Fertilizing during this time is likely to cause root damage as well, and ultimately the rest of the plant can suffer. Because they are heavy feeders, it’s easy to overfertilize your palms. This seems counterintuitive, but it means that you’ll be giving nutrients more frequently, so there is a better chance of overdoing it. Fertilizer burn is what happens when a plant receives more nutrients than it can absorb. Fertilizer burn will often manifest as damage to the newest fronds of your palm. The newest spear or the youngest leaves are the first to suffer. Using the correct type of fertilizer and following the directions can help you avoid this issue. If you see the effects of too much fertilizer burning the tips of leaves, don’t despair. Flush your soil and the roots with fresh, clean water. Then, hold off on your next scheduled dose. Giving too many nutrients while a plant is dormant can have the same effect as giving too much during a growth period. Because the plant can’t absorb and utilize all the nutrients you’ve given it, it sits on the outside of the roots. During dormancy, your plants take in less of all resources. The daylight hours decrease, which signals dormancy. Then, all systems slow down. Water and nutrients follow, becoming less important. Watering too much during this time can invite fungi that cause root rot. Fertilizing during this time is likely to cause root damage as well, and ultimately the rest of the plant can suffer. Just as too much fertilizer can cause issues, so too can a shortage. I mentioned that these plants need a significant amount of nutrients, macro and micro. When one of these things is out of balance, you may see signs pop up. It’s good to be able to recognize and diagnose these issues. Potassium deficiency is the most common in palms. If you notice spots on the fronds that are yellow and begin to thin out, becoming translucent, it’s probably this issue. Eventually, those leaf tips will turn brown. More damage, such as necrosis, will show on the ends of the fronds and less at the base. A boron deficiency may show up as stunted or damaged new growth. If you notice the ellowing of older fronds, it’s probably a magnesium deficiency. If the issue is a lack of manganese, the new growth may unfurl with a frizzled appearance. This is a deadly deficiency for palms, and it’s typically the result of soil that is too alkaline. Alkaline soil prevents certain nutrients from breaking down and becoming available to the plant. Potting mixes typically have a low enough pH to avoid most of these issues, but over time, that can change. If you have a palm that has been in the same soil for an extended time, re-potting along with a regular fertilizer schedule should help to correct most nutrient issues.

Mangrove Trees in Florida: What Are They And Why Are They Important?

Are you curious about mangrove trees you've seen across the Florida coastline? Mangrove trees can come in many different shapes and colors, and they are critical not just to the ecosystem in Florida, but around the world. Read on to learn more about these amazing trees, and why they are so important. If you’ve spent time at the southern coast of Florida, you may have noticed strange-looking forests of trees and shrubs at the water’s edge. These are mangrove forests. The United States has around 1,500 square miles of mangrove forests. Almost all of these are located at the southern Florida coast. Unlike indoor plants that are purely decorative, Mangroves have plenty of purposes and are of great importance to Florida’s natural ecosystem. Since the coast is normally an uninhabitable area for trees, naturally this can encourage a variety of questions from Florida natives and non-natives alike. You may be asking, why are they able to survive in these areas? What are the purposes that make them so important? In this article, we will answer these questions and more. By the end, you’ll understand why Florida mangroves are critical to the Florida ecosystem, and why they need to be preserved. Keep reading to find out more about these majestic trees, their importance, the troubles they are currently facing, plus what we can do to help. What Are Mangroves? Mangrove Trees are located off coastal locations all over the world. Mangroves are trees or shrubs that grow in salt water along the coastline. While it may be unusual that these trees grow in saltwater, they are actually able to derive fresh water from where they are planted. Some of the mangroves are able to secrete excess salt through their leaves. Others block the salt at the roots. The low-oxygen soil and slow current of water allow sediments to build up, thus providing a suitable home for the mangrove trees. Since mangroves cannot tolerate cold temperatures, they grow only in tropical or subtropical regions, just like the south of Florida. You can identify mangroves not just by where they live, but by the dense system of prop roots exposed above the water’s edge. This makes it look like the trees are standing on stilts. Prop roots have also given the mangrove the nickname “the walking tree”. The tangled prop roots provide a means for the mangroves to survive getting flooded. This happens at least twice a day, with the rising and falling of the tides. These roots are also instrumental in slowing the movement of tidal waters. This makes the sediments settle out of the water and build up the muddy bottom nicely. Are All Mangrove Trees Related? It’s interesting to note that the various species of mangroves are not really closely related to each other. Although, they all have the capacity to grow in unlikely terrain. There are around 54 species of true mangroves that belong to 16 different families. In Florida, the most well-known mangrove is probably the red mangrove (Rhizophora mangle). It is easily identifiable by its reddish prop roots. Black mangroves (Avicennia germinans) are found in slightly higher elevations from the red mangrove. You can identify them by the many finger-like projections, called pneumatophores, that stick out from the soil around the tree’s trunk. Lastly, white mangroves (Laguncularia racemosa) are found even further upland from red and black mangroves. It has no visible aerial root systems. You can identify the white mangrove by their leaves: they are a light yellow-green color, elliptical in shape, and two have distinct glands at the base of the leaf blade. Beyond this, the term “mangrove” is also used to refer to a mangrove community of trees and shrubs that live along the shoreline. This also creates a place for different plants and animals to call home, all encompassed by the name “mangrove”. The different marine organisms that attach themselves to mangrove roots also help the mangroves by filtering water and trapping nutrients for creatures living among the mangroves to enjoy. Why Are Mangroves Important? Mangrove Trees are an important part of the ecosystem for many reasons. Now that you know what mangrove trees are, it’s time to learn what value they give to the world. There are several different reasons as to why mangrove forests are important. They play a significant role in their ecosystem and beyond. Let’s explore this further. They Provide Shelter As we have previously learned, mangroves have a tangled root system. This creates a great home for significant amounts of biodiversity. The roots form a special underwater habitat. Fish and other organisms, like snails and shellfish, flock to for food and shelter. It provides a safe place for nurseries to form for fish of varying sizes. This keeps them away from predators, allowing them to breed and exist safely. Beyond this, mangroves also make a fantastic place for insects, monkeys, migratory birds, and sea turtles to call home. Many of the species that find themselves seeking shelter in mangrove forests are endangered; mangroves help to sustain their lives in ways that would not normally be possible. They Keep Water Clean Mangroves also help to clean the waters in and around their forests. The dense system of roots traps and filters phosphates, nitrates, and other pollutants. This helps to keep the water quality pure, clear, and healthy. Because they are able to prevent pollutants from contaminating the waters downstream, mangroves help save coral reefs and seagrass beds. They help keep the ocean and nearby water sources clean for everyone. Mangroves also absorb nutrients from runoff, helping prevent harmful algal blooms offshore. This is quite a big problem in South Florida, so we’re glad mangroves are doing their part! They Create Livelihood Mangroves help to create a livelihood for many different kinds of people. The wood from the trees is used in providing fuel and rot-resistant, hardy materials for construction. Many people also use the leaves of mangrove trees as fodder for their animals, helping to sustain local agricultural efforts. This goes double for the different fishing communities that use mangrove forests as a steady supply of fish and shellfish. It’s also a common practice around the world to use the plant extracts medicinally; preliminary studies have shown they have an antibacterial effect against pathogenic bacterial strains. Ecotourism is also a factor in what makes mangrove forests important. This helps to create a good income for those in the area. Sports fishing, birdwatching, and kayaking are all great activities to partake in around the mangrove trees. It also helps that mangrove forests are often located near coral reefs and along sandy beaches. Provided that ecotourism is done sustainably, it can be a great incentive to preserve mangrove trees and continue creating revenue for those who run these businesses. They Protect People Mangroves also have a special role in keeping people safe. Coastal areas benefit from mangrove forests as they protect against erosion, flooding, and hurricanes. Their root systems act as a natural buffer against storm surges and rising tides. This is especially helpful in the fight against climate change. Adding to this, mangroves are part of blue carbon ecosystems. These ecosystems are up to 10 times more effective in absorbing and storing carbon versus terrestrial ecosystems. How mangroves do this is by capturing carbon dioxide emissions and other harmful greenhouse gases. They then store these gases in the carbon-rich soil beneath them. This helps keep the atmosphere cleaner, which is great news for all of us. What Endangers Mangrove Forests? There are a number of dangers to Mangroves, including man-made trash, and climate change. Unfortunately, mangrove forests everywhere are threatened, including the ones in Florida. Studies have shown that over the last one hundred years, Tampa Bay has lost around 44% of its coastal wetlands acreage, including mangroves and salt marshes. Lake Worth has also experienced a changing system in its mangroves; over 87% of its mangrove acreage has been lost in the last 40 years alone! While it’s true that natural degradation of mangrove forests definitely occurs, the majority of mangrove forest loss is a direct result of human activity. Development projects, water pollution, dredging, filling, aquaculture, and deforestation all impact the disappearance of mangrove forests both in Florida and all over the world. This also has a negative impact on the ecosystems housed in the roots of mangroves. Since many of the creatures lose their homes, their lives are also endangered. When mangrove forests are destroyed, they release the massive amounts of carbon dioxide they have been holding onto in their root system. This contributes negatively to climate change. Moreover, as the temperatures climb worldwide, so do the rising sea waters. While mangrove forests are normally able to migrate inland, human development has prevented them from doing this. Mud build-up is also necessary to help the transition. However, in many parts of the world, the waters are rising faster than mud can build up. With the change of the climate also comes an increase in hurricanes and other storms that can severely damage sparse mangrove habitats. What Can We Do to Help? There are many ways that you can help keep Mangroves healthy, starting with getting educated.It goes without saying that there are plenty of factors led by human impact that put these important forests in danger. Some studies show that by the end of the 20th century, over 50% of the world’s mangroves had been destroyed. Today, half of that number remains in poor condition. Given their great significance to humans and animals alike, it is of utmost importance that mangrove forests be revitalized. There are many different ways to help this cause.

Palm Trees Indoors & Outdoors

Looking to plant some palm trees either in your garden, around your home, or perhaps even consider one as an indoor plant? In this guide, you'll learn all you need to know about how to care for palms, no matter the type! You'll learn about their watering requirements, hardiness zones, soil types, pruning needs, and more!Palm trees add the perfect tropical touch to a landscape. Their tall, slender trunks and feather-like fronds, which sway gently in the breeze, create the illusion of a beach setting. Sadly, not all areas are endowed with tropical soil; you may need to learn a thing or two about growing and taking care of them. Proper palm tree care varies depending on the type grown, the location (indoors or outdoors), and the climate. People living in the northern regions, for example, need to grow particular varieties like the cabbage palm and Chinese palm trees and provide special care. Before looking at how to care for palm trees, we explain the process of selecting a young one and the best place to plant it. In the following guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know about their care, both indoors and outdoors.As highlighted earlier, palm tree care begins with the proper selection of a species. There are tropical, subtropical, desert species and those that grow in cold-weather regions like Alaska. Other varieties thrive in moist and dark environments, while others do well in hot climates. Here are popular varieties and where to grow them: These varieties tolerate heat as most of them are from desert climates or warm Mediterranean climates. They include: Date palms: This variety is excellent for commercial use. In the United States, it thrives in sheltered in regions located within USDA zone 8 like California, Nevada, and Arizona King Palm: This kind is best grown in warm climates and moderately humid; too much humidity can burn their leaves and cause them to develop brown spots. King Palms also grow pretty fast, hence being best for outdoor use. Parlor Palm: This variety is ideal for regions within zones 9-10, i.e. areas with temperatures of -6.7C- 4.4 C. The Parlor Palm doesn’t grow as fast; hence it is great for the indoors. Windmill palm: This variety is also great for indoor use because of its slow growth. It’s fan-shaped, has green fronds, and the trunk looks like it has been covered in burlap. This palm thrives best in USDA zones 8-11 (-6.7 C – 10 C)

Damage from Heavy Snowfall: 7 Tree-Saving Strategies

If you’ve heard the snap and crack during a winter weather event, you’ve experienced the dread of a fallen limb or, worse, an entire tree. Garden expert Katherine Rowe looks at the best care for trees after a heavy snowfall to prevent further damage. Trees are the “bones” of the garden and those strong, magnificent bearers of everything from ornamental appeal and shade to soil stabilization, carbon sequestration, and wildlife nesting and forage. While able to withstand all kinds of conditions, heavy, wet snowfall and ice are a lot (literally) for tree branches to hold, causing them to be damaged under the weight. Winter and early spring storms can bring snow, ice, and high winds to cold climates. They also do severe damage in warmer areas that traditionally don’t experience wintry conditions. Specimens with multi stems or brittle limbs are most susceptible to breakage, but all trees can incur damage in winter extremes. How we address heavy snowfall is important in aftercare for susceptible branches, and the proper management keeps us from doing unintentional damage. Preventative measures help overall tree health in withstanding winter weather. Know the Most Susceptible Trees Both deciduous and evergreen tree species are susceptible to damage from heavy snowfall and ice. To hone in on those in your landscape with the greatest tendency to break, here are a few to keep an eye on: Weak-wooded and fast-growing deciduous species like cottonwood, ash, elm, willow, poplar Multistemmed selections like birch, arborvitae, juniper Trees with more than one central leader (main branch) Wide spreading canopies, horizontal branching Those with poor form (deep v-shaped or narrow angles) and deadwood Aged specimens After Care Once the snow falls or ice forms, there are measures to address weighted stems and any resulting breakage. One of the best first steps is to wait until ice and snow naturally melt in warming sunshine, usually a quick process, to assess the damage. For personal safety, we can’t overstate the importance of not standing beneath or working on large trees or branches impacted by heavy snowfall and winter damage. Limbs and entire trunks can snap or uproot at any time due to wet, saturated conditions. Interacting with branches can promote movement and cracking or dislodge hangers. Let snow and ice naturally melt in these cases, and enlist a certified arborist to assess preservation measures post-storm. Snow If heavy snowfall, not ice, is the main event, tend to young and small trees to dislodge the pack and prevent damage. When limbs bend under the weight of heavy snowfall, it’s tempting to give them a hardy shake. Vigorous shaking, though, can cause too much bounceback as stems are flexible. The snapback with the snow lifted may cause splitting. Instead of big shaking, do so lightly. You can also sweep the snow off the branch in an upward motion, keeping the weight off the end of the bending stem. Alternatively, lifting the branch is a safe means of displacement. Using a broom handle or other pole, lift the limb from below for subtle movement. Stand aside and watch for falling branches and snow as you lift. Don’t hit the stem to shed snow; it can damage bark and tissue. Ice Ice storms often do the most damage, sweeping lots of small and large debris from trees in a single event. To view the destruction of a severe ice storm is equivocal to the aftermath of a hurricane. A layer of ice makes stems brittle, and working with them leads to easy breakage. Ice is best left to melt in the sun, as opposed to using hot or cold water to accelerate melting on an above-freezing day. Water adds weight through saturation, and hot water can cause tissue damage in addition. Avoid lifting or shaking icy branches. If the tree shows bending, add a support prop to discourage further weight, but avoid trying to raise the branch. Remove the prop once the ice melts so branches can naturally return to shape. Treating Breakage If damage is minimal (like small twigs and branches), the woody grower will rejuvenate on its own in coming seasons. Breaks that need attention are ragged cuts, hanging limbs, and those not at a growth point. Consider pruning as a means toward recovery if: the tree is otherwise healthy the primary trunk and most significant branches are intact at least 50% of the crown remains the remainder is sound When a limb breaks, it can leave a jagged, splintered cut in the branch or junction point. Make a clean cut when possible to minimize exposed tissue. Reducing exposure prevents subsequent wound damage like moisture and disease intrusion. Trees are adept at healing, and a clean cut is a good foundation for warding off pathogens. New growth emerges at a healthy node before the cut. Trim back any small stem breaks to the first healthy branch. If the end of a large branch is gone, trim it back to a healthy branching node for growth to develop around the tip. On conifers, damage to the central leader is recoverable by pruning it back for new leaders to develop. Continued pruning fosters the best shape for sturdy, wind-resistant forms. Topping, removing, or reducing leaders on all trees results in less structural integrity. They become prone to future weakness and wind toppling. Tree Tying Tying the branches of susceptible evergreen trees is a means of preventing winter damage before a heavy snowfall or storm. This is most feasible for small specimens and young trees. In this method, branches are bundled upward toward the trunk using soft, flexible ties. The aim is to prevent weighty snow from accumulating. It also protects against ice damage. To tie stems, wrap flexible material (bungee cords, fabric strips, nylon hose) around the entire conifer. Create a cone shape with a gentle binding to support stems and shed snow. Remove the ties after the threat passes or late in the season as conditions moderate. Protective Barriers If you have a spot in your yard prone to drifts or piling, like snow sliding off a peaked roof, installing a temporary barrier is an option. These can stay in place all winter to protect individual specimens or go in for the short term before a storm. Wooden Structures Basic wooden structures become reusable forms to hold heavy snowfall off the tree. Repurpose wooden boards to build an A-frame or box structure around the tree. Secure the pieces using nails, screws, or hinges. With the frame in place, use a tarp, plastic sheeting, burlap, or landscape fabric to cover it during the weather event. Staple or tie the cover to the frame. After the weather clears, remove the cover to allow exposure to sunlight, moisture, and airflow. Keep the frame in place for the season, replacing the cover as needed. If leaving the cover in place for extended periods, opt for burlap since it’s breathable. In spring, store the frame for next year or repurpose the wood. Evergreen Boughs Clip evergreen boughs or repurpose your Christmas tree to position against small trees and shrubs. The added coverage collects and displaces snowfall. Arrange the boughs by leaning them against the existing growth so snow slides down and off. The extra insulation also helps against ice. Managing Bent Branches Leaders and stems may show a bent form even after the snow and ice passes. Without breakage present, they’ll likely rebound over time. Resist the urge to prop or tie them up. Let them reform naturally to minimize weakness or breakage. If drooping, bending, or distorting is still evident by early summer, strapping and wooden supports can help train the stems. Use tree staking supplies like flexible straps or fabric strips tied to bamboo or other wooden stakes for repositioning. Take off the strapping in one or two growing seasons to avoid girdling as the tree grows. Preventative Pruning Pruning contributes to long-term health and improves resistance against winter injury. The goal of preventative pruning is to direct growth to retain a sturdy structural form. Leave big cuts and structural decisions to professional arborists. Prune out dead, diseased, or crossing limbs any time of year. Stop any pruning by late summer to avoid generating new growth. Tender stems are susceptible to weakness and winter dieback, potentially damaging the limb in freezing situations. Pruning deciduous trees during dormancy allows full visibility of structure and form while growth is inactive. Pruning when dormant doesn’t promote new growth until temperatures warm. Prune to develop a central leader (primary branch) and a scaffolding structure suitable to the species. Start with young trees to foster the best form and strength.

Mulberry Tree

No matter the fruit color, the fruiting mulberry tree is an easy way to get sweet berries. Red mulberry trees come from America, but there are also white and black mulberries you can grow. Mulberries are the perfect summer treats. It is even better when you can pick out handfuls of these sweet dark fruits right off your own mulberry tree! Fresh mulberries consist of 88% water. A cup of fresh and juicy mulberries (about 140 grams) contains only 60 calories, making it the perfect fruit for casual snacking. Dried mulberries are also popular and can be eaten just like raisins. The dried fruit contains 12% protein, 70% carbs, 14% fiber, and only 3% fats. As compared to most other berries, mulberry has one of the highest protein content levels. They are also loaded with iron, potassium, Vitamin C, E, and K1. Apart from offering sweet, colorful fruit, mulberry trees also provide shade in summer and attract a variety of fruit-loving birds, including bluebirds, tanagers, warblers, and orioles. In the spring, when the mulberry tree is laden with berries, you can also expect bees and butterflies to visit your garden.

How to Overwinter Potted Banana Trees

Banana trees make striking potted plants, but they aren't cold-hardy. There are steps you can take to protect your lovely tropical fruit trees to keep them healthy for when spring rolls around. Florida gardener Melissa Strauss discusses how to treat your potted banana tree to take it through the frosty months. Out of all the fruit trees, I think bananas might be the prettiest. From your common Cavendish to the striking ‘Ensente,’ their large, soft leaves make them good for eating or using as ornamentals. Smaller varieties even make great potted plants; you can grow them indoors under the right conditions! These tropical trees need large containers, at least 15 gallons or more. They prefer well-draining soil with high sand content and plenty of organic matter. They’re not the easiest to care for, but it’s more of a maintenance issue, as they need a significant amount of light and plenty of water. Turns out bananas are thirsty trees. Dwarf varieties are best for keeping in containers. ‘Ice Cream’ is a wonderful cultivar for container growing. The small fruits are a lovely, soft blue shade, and the foliage is large for a smaller variety. Whichever type you choose, if you live north of Zone 9, you’ll have to keep it in a container. Let’s talk about how you can get it through the winter. Banana trees typically like a lot of fertilizer. Fertilizing every six to eight weeks will keep your plant happy and productive. As with most plants, you should only fertilize while the plant is actively growing. As winter approaches, it’s important to stop. The reason for this is the plant’s absorption ability. As your banana enters its dormant stage, not only will it not need fertilizer, it won’t use it. As a result, those extra nutrients will build up in the soil. This causes fertilizer burn. It can desiccate or break down the roots. The ultimate result of fertilizer burn includes stunted growth and leaf development, as well as brown, dry tips on those pretty leaves. As fall draws to a close, ease off of your fertilizing schedule and give your plant the rest it needs. Don’t bring your plant in too soon. You want to expose it to some cool weather. This will signal it to enter dormancy, an energy-saving rest time. Leave it outdoors until just after the first light frost. This won’t harm the roots but will cause the foliage to begin dying back. After the first frost, cut all the leaves off of the tree. Remove them all together, just above the top of the stem, below the lowest leaf. Make your cut at an angle to prevent water from pooling on the top and causing stem rot. Use a clean, sharp tool to make a clean cut. If you’re wondering about the purpose of removing the foliage, it’s simple. Removing the leaves helps the plant to conserve energy while it is dormant. This also makes it much easier to store it indoors for the season. Banana trees can grow rather large. A gradual transition isn’t the most important factor, but it won’t hurt. It also gives you time to make sure you’re not bringing pests in to affect your houseplants. After that first frost, bring your banana into a cool but sheltered spot, like a garage or shed. You don’t have to leave it here for long. A week will suffice. During this time, check in on it and look for signs of pests or diseases. I’ve made the mistake of transitioning outdoor plants to the indoors without this safeguard. It wasn’t pretty. I dealt with spider mites for the entire following year. After this transition period, find a space for your plant that is cool and brightly lit. Don’t place it near a heating element, as this can cause it to come out of dormancy early. You want to keep it cool but give it light. This is a tropical plant, so it won’t go entirely dormant. It still needs light and water, although sparingly. This applies to mild climate areas, so if you live north of Zone 8, you can skip it, as it won’t be necessary. If you bring your plant indoors, it will need no further insulation. If, however, like me, you live in Zone 9 and intend to leave the potted tree outdoors for the winter, you’ll want to offer the roots some protection. There are different ways to do this, but it is easiest to wrap it with bubble wrap or a blanket. Alternatively, you can dig a hole and set the pot down in the hole. Fill it up with mulch to lock in the heat, and toss some frost cloth over the top for good measure. Hopefully, any pest or disease issues will reveal themselves during your transitional period. However, it’s good to keep an eye on things in case something slipped through the cracks. If you do run into an issue, it’s important to isolate and treat it as soon as possible to protect any nearby plants. Just as your tree will use fewer nutrients and need less light, it also needs less water while dormant. Overwatering during this time is a fast road to root rot. In the same way that it won’t absorb as many nutrients, it won’t absorb a lot of water, so the water sits in the soil. Water also evaporates more slowly indoors and in the cooler weather. Rather than sticking to a schedule, monitor your soil and let it tell you when to water. When the top two inches of soil are dry, give it a drink. This will depend on the temperature and humidity of your home, but it shouldn’t be more than once every two to three weeks. Take your time about moving your tree back outdoors in the spring. Wait until a couple of weeks have passed after your last anticipated frost date. You can move it back to your transitional space or move it outdoors but undercover. You can move it outside, into the shade for a few hours a day, gradually exposing it to more sun. If you want to begin doing this earlier in the year, you can, but make sure to bring it indoors at night. A late frost can cause damage. It’s a good idea to re-pot your banana plant every two to three years. If it needs more space, you can size up the container or thin out any pups and give it fresh soil. The best time to re-pot is in the spring before new growth begins. If you need to remove pups and the main plant doesn’t need more space, you can keep it in the same container. Loosen the soil and any circling roots from the inside of the pot. Use a clean, sharp tool to cut the offsets or pups away, and pot these in their own containers. Then, replace the parent plant in its container and fill it in with fresh soil. If your plant has outgrown its present container, size up to a pot that is one size larger than the current one. Don’t go too large. They prefer to be slightly root-bound. Loosen the roots, transfer the plant to its new home, and fill in with fresh soil. Water well and allow the water to drain. At this point, your banana tree is ready to move back outside. It should come out of dormancy as the weather warms. Keep an eye out for new leaves. As soon as it begins growing again, you can resume watering and fertilizing as usual!

June Plum Tree

The tropical June plum tree, a relative of the mango, produces an equally tasty fruit.The June plum tree produces an uncommon tropical treat, not to be compared to the popular plum fruit. The flavor of a June plum resembles a pineapple and mango with the crunch of an apple. The fruits can be eaten unripe or ripe, which can either make the flavor mellow or tangy. June plums are a rare commodity that you probably won’t find at the grocery store. This fruit tree would be an excellent addition to the home garden if your climate permits. June plums thrive in the heat but cannot tolerate frost. They offer more than just fresh fruit. Use the tropical fruit to make juice, jams, and sauces. It can also be pickled and added to dishes for flavoring. The young leaves are also edible and commonly consumed in Southeast Asia, either raw or steamed. Use the leaves to tenderize meat. Fortunately, June plum trees are also very easy to grow. Grow in the ground or in a pot but make sure they have full or partial sun. They are an ideal candidate for a patio fruit tree. They have very few problems in regard to pests and diseases. As long as June plum trees can be protected from frost, there’s no reason not to grow your own!June plum (Spondias dulcis) has many different common names, but the most common are ambarella, golden apple, Jewish plum, and Tahitian plum. Spondias dulcis is in the family Anacardiaceae. Also included in this family are mangos, cashews, and pistachios.

Watering Your Norfolk Island Pine Tree

Norfolk Island pine has soft evergreen needles and a symmetrical form that give it a stately look as a holiday decoration or long-lived houseplant. They bring joy well beyond the holidays but are a bit of a Goldilocks when it comes to watering. Learn how to balance your Norfolk pine’s water needs for fresh, green growth with garden expert Katherine Rowe. Norfolk Island pines are graceful, needled evergreen trees that brighten the winter season, but may require more water than other coniferous plants in your collection. We see them near holiday time, where they make wonderful gifts for the houseplant lover in addition to seasonal tabletop displays. They grow well year-round indoors, and in warm, mild climates (zones 9 to 11), they move to the landscape to become tall specimen trees. The evergreens are low-maintenance in the right situation with ample light and water. Regular irrgation is part of the balance of care—they like soils that aren’t too wet or dry. In the ground, they need little irrigation once established. In a container, they require it more frequently since pots dry out more quickly, indoors or out. Knowing what to look for helps determine a regimen for that just right amount of water for your Norfolk Island pine tree to flourish. Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) lends a lush, tropical look to the garden or home with its pyramidal shape, symmetrical, whorled branches, and soft, deep green needles. The trees are not true pines but a member of an ancient family (Araucariaceae) of pre-historic conifers. Captain James Cook discovered the evergreens on his second voyage (1772-1775) on an uninhabited island off the coast of Australia. In their native range, they grow along seaside cliffs and in temperate rainforests. The “pines” grow up to 200 feet tall, with trunks six feet in diameter. Norfolk Island pine trees made their way into cultivation in 1793 and now grow worldwide, especially in coastal, sub-tropical climates with lots of water from rainfall and humidity. And, of course, they are kept as beloved houseplants. They do best in the morning sun and bright light in well-draining, acidic soils. The top cause of decline in potted Norfolks is overwatering. We sometimes nurture them too much. In their Oceania habitat, they experience regular moisture through humidity and soaking rains, followed by periods of drying out. Volcanic soils are fertile, porous, and well-draining. The tropicals prefer moist, but not oversaturated, soils. Prolonged saturation leads to root problems. Soggy potting media causes decaying roots, where they can’t uptake moisture and nutrients to support the upper growth. Fungal root rot from overwatering is a primary cause of loss. Underwatering is another stressor, forcing the plant to conserve energy to survive. Moisture fluctuations lead to weak roots and less robust upper growth. Branches will brown and drop if water fluctuates widely and stresses the plant. A good rule of thumb for potted Norfolk Island pine trees is to water when the top one inch of soil feels dry to the touch (about knuckle deep). Frequency is usually once a week or two, depending on the growing environment. In more humid environments, they may not need as much irrigation. Err on the dry side rather than overwatering, but don’t allow soil to dry out completely. Norfolk Island pine needs soil with just enough moisture – not too wet or dry. It can tolerate somewhat drier soils but not constantly damp or overly dry. A few factors influence how often to irrigate, including the type of container. Terra cotta pots are porous and tend to dry out more quickly. The porosity and airflow benefits roots but may need irrigation more often. Plastic retains moisture longer, which can be helpful in reducing sessions, but calls for a watchful eye to prevent oversaturation. Plant size and potting medium are additional factors. Well-draining soils are essential; high-quality mixes formulated for pots retain moisture in addition to having good aeration and drainage. Large plants will soak up the moisture, though they are more drought-tolerant with larger root systems. Young plants in smaller pots require it regularly as they quickly develop new roots and leafy growth. Lighting, seasonality, and growing environment also play into how quickly soils dry. Trees in direct sun require more soil moisture, while those in bright, indirect light absorb and evaporate more slowly. In summer, active growth and warm temperatures draw more water, while winter reduces demand. Also, the specific microclimate creates variables in how quickly the soil dries (arid situations versus humid ones, for example). When the surface is soil to that inch or so depth, irrigate thoroughly at the tree’s base until water flows through the pot’s drainage holes. Regular, as-needed deep watering is more beneficial than shallow, more frequent sessions. Some gardeners find it easier to irrigate from under the pot, filling a deep saucer with water for the soil and roots to draw into the pot. Whether top or bottom watering, remove the catchment tray after being allowed to drain. Emptying the dish ensures the pot doesn’t sit in water and take in excess moisture. Since moisture imbalances happen, it helps to know what to look for to correct the course. The soil will feel wet, sticky, and spongey (too much water) or dry, crumbly, and dusty (not enough). ] Green needles will drop from overwatering. Leaves may turn yellow and brown and may drop in both cases, but branches will wilt as a sign of underwatering. If caught early enough, conditions may recover to regenerate healthy roots. There are a few methods to increase air moisture. The first is to group houseplants together. Create a little jungle where evaporation, transpiration, and surrounding soil moisture raise surrounding conditions. Another is to place the Norfolk Island pine tree’s container near a tray of pebbles filled with water. The pots should sit close to the tray to avoid excess saturation. Humidifiers, too, work quickly. Air circulation is equally important to prevent excess moisture on leaves and stems from promoting disease. With a lack of natural breezes, a fan or humidifier works to increase airflow.

Olives

Love olives? Growing olives at home is completely possible! One of the longest-lived fruit trees, olives are a legacy tree that produces fruit for centuries. Everyone knows the olive, a staple of cocktails and great in salads. But have you ever considered growing olives yourself? Perhaps more importantly, is an olive a fruit or a vegetable? Most people seem to consider them to be vegetables. But those black olives on tree branches are most definitely a fruit. They develop in a range of colors: purple, green, dark brown, black, and even pink! Both dwarf olive trees and regular ones originated from western Asia and spread down the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. These lovely trees are evergreen and are considered to be one of the longest-living fruit trees. The average lifespan of these trees is generally between 300 to 600 years. However, some trees can live up to be 4000 years old. One of the oldest olive trees is on the island of Crete. It is believed to be over 4000 years old. The astonishing part is that the tree is still producing fruit! The fruit is loaded with minerals. They are also rich in Vitamin A, B, E, and K. Almost 20% of the fruit is oil, and that shows in its use. While these fruits are used in the culinary world in multiple ways, olive oil is one of the largest uses. About 3.3 million metric tons of olive oil is produced every year.The botanical name of olive is Olea europaea. Generally, the fruit goes by the name olive, and the tree is simply known as the olive tree. The olive tree generally reaches a height of 26 to 49 feet with a round and well-branched crown. Olea europaea is native to most of Africa, Southern Europe and Southern Asia. Various types of these trees are grown in all Mediterranean countries. It is also harvested in Australia, New Zealand, South America, South Africa, and the United States. However, it has become invasive in Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii, and southern California.

Why is My Norfolk Island Pine Tree Dropping Branches?

Is your Norfolk Island Pine tree dropping branches just in time for the holidays? Horticulture expert Matt Dursum takes you through the reasons this could be happening. Few indoor evergreens look as stunning as a Norfolk Island pine tree. Between its scaly, bright green leaves and thin Christmas tree shape, it’s the ultimate alternative to a true pine tree in your home. With minimal care, it will thrive in your home for years. As beautiful and easy to grow as it is, things can go wrong. When its soft leaves and branches start falling off, it often means you have a problem. This subtropical evergreen grows well indoors and doesn’t need much maintenance. However, if its ideal growing conditions aren’t met, it will show signs of stress and become ill. Below are a few reasons your Norfolk Island pine tree is dropping its branches and what to do to help it. Dropping leaves and branches is normal for a healthy plant. If your evergreen is going through a natural growth spurt, there’s nothing to worry about. This tree can reach heights of 200 feet in its native habitat on Norfolk Island. When this pine grows vigorously, it sheds its old foliage to make room for new growth. You may see leaves and even lower branches fall off. There isn’t much you can do as long as the plant appears healthy. Feel the leaves and branches to make sure they’re not dry and brittle. If it’s shedding a small amount of growth and you don’t see other signs of stress, you’re totally in the clear. Norfolk Island pines are native to a subtropical island that lies around 1,000 miles off the coast of Eastern Australia. The island experiences over 50 inches of rain annually and high humidity. If you’re not recreating its humid natural environment indoors, your tree can experience growing problems. Try to keep your space above 50% humidity. If you have a hygrometer, an instrument for checking humidity levels, this should be easy to monitor. Mist it regularly with a spray bottle. You can also place a tray of water next to it. Humidifiers are another great tool for boasting humidity levels. Run one next to your Norfolk Island pine and keep other houseplants nearby. The humidity will increase drastically. Dropping branches from a Norfolk Island pine may appear brown and dry if there is a lack of water. This species doesn’t need a lot of water to thrive, but it does need frequent watering. Let the soil surface dry out in between watering. Once it dries to about two inches, give it a good soaking. Wait until the soil dries, and repeat. If you wait too long in between waterings, it could stress your tree. A thirsty plant will eventually turn brown and drop its foliage and branches. Check the soil for moisture with your finger. If it’s bone dry past an inch or two, it probably needs more water. Give it a good shower and water more frequently. Monitor your plant to see if it becomes greener and healthier. Although your houseplant comes from a warm climate, it doesn’t like extreme heat. The ocean moderates the temperatures on the evergreen’s home island. If it gets too balmy, the tree can become stressed and lose its branches and leaves. Your tree thrives in temperatures between 55-65°F (13-18°C). If a Norfolk Island pine gets too hot or cold, it could stress your subtropical houseplant out, and cause it to drop its branches. Temperatures above 95°F (35°C) or below 50°F (10°C) are too extreme. If you live in a cold climate, keep it away from the window in winter. Plunging temperatures outside could affect the air temperature around your inside window. Also, watch the air vents near your houseplant. If the heat is up too high, it will stress it out. You may feel tempted to fertilize your plant if its branches suddenly start dropping. However, over-feeding could be the cause. Giving it more food than it needs will only stress it out more. Your living Christmas tree doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer to thrive. A little liquid organic houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength can help it during the spring and summer. Feeding your plant in the winter, when new growth is at its slowest, can stress your plant. If you’ve been overfeeding your plant, stop fertilizing immediately. Wait until it recovers before you begin again. Remove any mineral buildup in the topsoil before watering. If this is the stressor, your plant should become vibrant and green within a few days. One of the most common reasons your evergreen is losing its branches is low light. If it’s growing away from a light source, this could be the issue. Rooms, hallways, and living rooms may not be the best locations. Move your tall houseplant near a south-facing window with plenty of light. Avoid growing near north-facing windows in the Northern Hemisphere. A great trick is rotating your plant throughout the week. This lets the sunlight shine on each section, keeping the foliage green and healthy. Your Norfolk Island pine is healthiest in slightly acidic soils with good drainage. Alkaline soils or soils that become soggy can put your plant under stress. Plant your evergreen houseplant in well-draining sandy soil with peat moss. Try to keep the soil pH between 6 and 6.5. You can lower the pH by using mineral additives like this one. Always follow the instructions so you don’t overfeed your plant. If your soil isn’t draining properly, you might have to repot it with better soil. This will stress your tree more but will be better in the long run. Temperature differences of 10° or less are normal, but extreme changes can stress your tree. If temperatures fluctuate more than 10° daily, your evergreen could start to turn brown and lose its leaves and branches. This can happen during the winter if you leave the heat on during the night and turn it off during the day. This fluctuation can send your tree into panic mode. A Norfolk Island pine prefers stable temperatures. Try to keep the temperature of your home between 55°F and 65°F (13-18°C). One final cause could be depleted nutrients in the soil. When your tree outgrows its container and is over three years old, it may be time to repot it. Reporting your large holiday houseplant in new soil should help. Choose a container that’s over two inches larger than the last. Make sure its root system has plenty of room to grow and establish itself. Use a slightly acidic soil that’s porous and full of organic material. If you recently repoted your plant, this too could cause enough stress for it to lose its leaves and branches. Give it enough time to recover from the shock of repotting. During the spring, give it a little organic fertilizer to help encourage new growth. Your Norfolk Island pine makes the perfect holiday houseplant. As resilient as it is, it can show signs of stress when its ideal growing conditions are not met. One of the most common signs of stress is dropping its branches and foliage. Although this is normal in small amounts, it could mean there’s a more serious problem. Go through the list of possible causes to find out what’s stressing your plant. Once you find the issue, you should be able to stop it from losing its beautiful branches.

Blue Spruce Trees

Blue spruce trees add delightful pops of color to the garden. They’re evergreen conifers native to North America that love growing in our front and backyards. Join native plant gardener Jerad Bryant in learning to cultivate and care for blue spruce trees. Native conifers are essential additions to the garden. They provide year-round ornamental interest with needles, cones, and scaly gray bark. The branches provide habitat space for birds, squirrels, and small mammals. The cones feed hungry birds and squirrels, while the flowers offer valuable resin for nest-building bees. Not only are blue spruces valuable for wildlife, but they’re also easy trees to care for. They perform well in their native range without additional care. They’ll need some maintenance if you grow them outside their preferred habitat, although they’ll grow more drought-tolerant and frost-hardy as they mature. Blue spruce, or Colorado spruce, is perfect for native plant gardens, living fences, or specimen plantings. It’ll slowly extend over 50 feet tall with a wide base, filling bare sites with lovely evergreen foliage. Rather than traditional conifer green, go for the bright gray-blue of the blue spruce tree! Blue spruce is an evergreen conifer, meaning it keeps its bright blue needles on its stems throughout the year. It starts as a young sapling and slowly matures into a large, towering tree. Blue spruces originate in mountainous regions from Montana to Mexico. They grow water-preserving needles at high altitudes to conserve moisture when it’s scarce. You’ll find them growing wild in Wyoming, Colorado, and Montana. They’re the official state tree of Colorado! Although blue spruce is a western conifer, it thrives in cool sites from USDA hardiness zones 2 through 7. I see these evergreen trees growing in yards throughout my region of the Pacific Northwest in zone 8. So long as you provide consistent moisture and avoid excessive summer heat, you can cultivate blue spruce in your garden. Spruces, or trees in the genus Picea, share some of the same traits. These conifers grow spiny, evergreen needles that attach to the stems on pegs known as sterigmata. The pegs persist on the stems long after the needles fall off, and you can use them to help you identify this tree from firs or pines. Blue spruces have characteristic blue-green needles. They emerge bright blue at first and fade to a dull green. In the nursery trade, species used for propagating and selling are bright blue specimens under the name Picea pungens var. glauca. These retain their blue color better than most wild trees do. Spruces sprout decorative cones that mature throughout the year. Blue spruces sprout bright red-purple cones that mature to a light brown. The cones hang onto the tree while they release seeds below when conditions are favorable for germination. Some large cones reach up to ten inches long! Because spruces are wild trees, they grow to epic proportions in their native range. You can expect blue spruce to reach between 30 and 60 feet tall when it’s mature. It’ll hold onto the lower branches, creating a pyramidal structure reminiscent of Christmas tree shapes. You’ll find these trees available as potted saplings in nurseries throughout North America. Although sold in eastern states, they perform best in regions near their native range, or cold climates from zones 2 through 7. Consider choosing a different spruce that’s local to your area if you garden in warm regions of the Southeast.

Ice Cream Bean

The ice cream bean is a fast-growing tree that produces strange tropical fruit. The name originates from the fruit's sweetness, with a texture reminiscent of cotton candy.Ice cream bean is a fast-growing tree with many uses, including its exotic fruit! The large fruits contain a sweet, cottony pulp. The edible pulp is where the “ice cream” name comes from, as it has a sweet vanilla taste, sometimes with a cinnamon note, and the texture of cotton candy. The ice cream bean has many different names in its native region, and indigenous peoples use the tree for a variety of uses. The most common use is to eat the cottony fluff straight from the pod, but it can also be used to sweeten and flavor various foods as well. Let’s talk more about this fascinating tropical tree and its strange beans filled with sweet fluffy pith. We’ll go over everything you’ll need to grow and care for your own ice cream bean tree!There are hundreds of species of Inga, and as many as 50 produce edible fruits, each with a slightly different size and taste. While some species, like Inga feuillei, Inga spectabilis, and Inga rhynchocalyx are sometimes confused with Inga edulis, these related species have different shapes of pods that they produce.

Asian Pear Trees

The Asian pear trees produces delicate, sweet fruit. It is also a lovely tree with beautiful white flowers in the spring and vibrant leaves in the fall. Asian pear trees produce golden, apple-shaped fruit that has a sweet pear flavor with the texture of a crisp apple. The Asian pear tree not only produces an abundance of delicious fruit, but it’s also aesthetically pleasing without taking up too much space. It has beautiful white flowers in the spring, lush green foliage in the summer, and colorful falling leaves in the fall. The species name, pyrifolia, means fiery leaves because of its intense fall color. Asian pears can occasionally be found at the grocery store in the United States, but the fruit is very sensitive to bruising. Growing Asian pears at home is the best way to have plenty of quality produce. Unlike European pears, apple pears are greatest when picked ripe, so growing them in your garden guarantees that you can pick and enjoy them when they’re perfect. Keep in mind, these trees are only partially self-fertile so they need to be cross-pollinated to produce satisfactory fruit yields. It’s helpful to grow two different varieties within 50 feet for optimal pollination or you can plant a cocktail tree with multiple varieties on the same tree. To extend the harvest season, choose varieties with different picking times. Most cultivars are cross-compatible for pollination, but it’s wise to confirm before planting. European varieties are also compatible for pollination. Make sure the bloom windows overlap to allow for cross-pollination. Asian pears are also commonly referred to as Nashi or apple pears. The Asian pear is in the Rosaceae family along with apples, cherries, apricots, and plums (just to name a few). Growth and development are similar to apple trees.