trees

Taiwan’ Flowering Cherry Trees

Do you want to grow a warm-climate tree with radiant spring blossoms? ‘Taiwan’ flowering cherry trees will fit the bill. In this article, plant expert Matt Dursum shows you how to plant, grow, and care for these exciting flowering cherry trees. If you’ve been to Japan or Washington DC, you’ve probably heard of ‘hanami.’ This tradition translates as “flower viewing” and is a cultural practice in which groups of people picnic under cherry blossoms. Traditional ‘Okame,’ Yoshino, and Sakura varieties of flowering cherries have trouble growing in climates above zone 8 or 9. In warm regions of East Asia, such as Okinawa, Taiwan, and the Ryukyu Islands, you’ll find ‘Taiwan’ cherry trees more frequently. These deciduous cherries have bright pink blooms that take over entire hillsides and mountains. They prefer humid climates with long and hot summers and short, mild winters. If you live in a subtropical climate, try growing these majestic blooming cherries for incredible shows of color. Let’s dive into how to plant, grow, and care for ‘Taiwan’ flowering cherries, so you enjoy stunning winter blooms. ‘Taiwan’ flowering cherry trees are popular ornamental trees in subtropical regions of East Asia. They produce gorgeous dark pink blossoms that appear between December and February. In the Ryukyu Islands of Japan, they’re the most prominent flowering cherry trees. When they bloom in mid-winter, they fill streets, parks, and homes with their colorful blooms. Prunus campanulatas grow to be over 30 feet once they’re established. These deciduous trees flower in the winter and put on edible fruit in the late winter and early spring. The tart fruit is edible but is almost too small to enjoy. One of the most challenging parts about growing a ‘Taiwan’ cherry is the germination rates. Birds, squirrels, and other small animals feast on their fruits and scatter them over long distances. In New Zealand, they are seen as invasive, with some communities, such as Northland and North Island, banning them from nurseries. These flowering trees compete with native species in New Zealand, leading to new restrictions on growing them. These gorgeous trees are native to subtropical regions of East Asia, including Vietnam, Southern China, Taiwan, and Japan’s Ryukyu Islands. They thrive in zones 7 through 10 but grow in zones 11 and 12 as well. In their native habitat, you’ll see them growing in mountains, hillsides, and the borders of forests. They’re now most commonly found in public parks and gardens for their decorative flowers. Every winter, people come to picnic under their blooms in places such as Nago Central Park, in Okinawa. In the U.S., they grow particularly well in the Deep South, from northern Florida to South Texas. Some gardeners in Hawaii have had success planting them at higher elevations. Although they’re native to humid climates, many gardeners in Southern California have had success growing them. These deciduous cherry trees are easy to plant and grow as long as they get enough sun and irrigation. Make sure the site is well-drained. If you get a lot of rainfall, consider planting them on a slope. This should prevent moisture from accumulating near their roots. In drier areas such as Southern California or West Texas, you’ll have to water them more frequently. Plant your ‘Taiwan’ cherry near entryways, streets, or anywhere you want to show off the magnificent blossoms. When selecting a site, make sure it’s away from other tall species. These cherries grow quickly and can become quite full and wide. Plant them away from other sun-loving plants.

Saucer Magnolia Trees

Magnolias are among the oldest flowering plants in the world. The saucer magnolia is a special hybrid that thrives in lawns, gardens, and large containers. Whether buying one for the first time or cultivating an old specimen, this guide has everything you need to know about saucer magnolias and their care. Ornamental trees are necessary additions to the garden. They act as focal points and backdrops, and some work well as living hedges! Saucer magnolias are some of the most striking ornamental flowering trees. In spring, they bloom giant, saucer cup-style flowers on naked branches. These magnolias are hybrid specimens. They descend from two other species, and nowadays, there are dozens of saucer varieties with different-colored blooms, varying heights, and unique habits. This ultimate selection provides ample choices for gardens, from large sunny yards to shady small sites. Though many magnolia trees are available, the saucer types are some of the most sought-after varieties. They’re popular for good reason. Plant one today to enjoy its blooms for the rest of your life! Saucer magnolias are deciduous flowering trees that excel in temperate zones. They’re cold-hardy, tolerant of air pollution, and stunning in cultivated settings! Though not wild trees, they perform well with minimal maintenance and care during the growing season. Saucer magnolia trees come from the parents, Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora, which originate from central China. Because these descendants are hybrids, they rarely flee into wild environments. Instead, they stay within cultivated gardens without escaping. Seedlings may sprout but need cultivation and care to grow into mature trees. These hybrid trees tolerate conditions similar to those in central China. They grow well in temperate zones with regular seasons but they can thrive in USDA hardiness zone 9 with protection from the afternoon sun. Some features will help you identify these hybrids. They have a single trunk, though some tend to sprout multiple thick branches from low on their trunk. You’ll see them with a single or multi-stem structure. The bark is slightly fragrant, emitting a soft smell when you crush, cut, or bruise the wood. The smooth, gray bark has light gray spots on mature specimens. In late winter and early spring, saucer-style blooms emerge from buds all over the trees’ canopies. They resemble tulips, which is why the species also goes by the common name “tulip tree.” The blooms are one way to tell these magnolias apart from others. They open up towards the sky and look like cups on saucers! They typically have nine petals that are wine red, white, pink, or purple. The color depends on the variety. The leaves are distinct from other types; they’re lush, green, and slightly lighter in color on the undersides. They’re oblong and have sharp points at their tips. The best way to get a saucer magnolia in your garden is to find a potted tree at a local nursery. The saucer types are incredibly popular, and nurseries should have a few varieties available. You may also grow these trees from seeds, though the seedlings are unpredictable; they’ll grow differently than their parents.

Lily Magnolia Trees

Lily magnolias are gorgeous shrubs and small trees that produce some of the prettiest flowers of spring. If you're thinking about planting one, read ahead as gardening expert Melissa Strauss gives the details on how to grow and care for these wonderful plants. Magnolias are a beautiful and enchanting group of plants that produce some of the most beautiful and fragrant flowers around. They are easy to care for and add much beauty and grace to the garden and landscape. While we commonly think of the evergreen types when we hear the name, there are stunning deciduous species, as well. Among them is the sweet and petite lily magnolia tree with its delicate beauty and understated charm. Let’s learn how to grow it! Lily magnolia is a species of shrub or small tree that falls into the Magnoliaceae family. This family includes both deciduous and evergreen species, each producing large, fragrant, beautiful flowers and broad, attractive foliage. Lily falls into the deciduous group, which typically produces a greater number of blooms, though they are usually smaller than their evergreen cousins. They are just as easy to care for and make a beautiful addition to any garden, even those smaller spaces where many trees can overwhelm. Deciduous species in this family tend to be more compact than the full-sized evergreens. The lily magnolia has a lower growing habit that is more shrub-like, but you can train them into the form of a small tree with some early, selective pruning. Left to their own habits, they tend to be multi-trunked and grow to between eight and 12 feet tall, which makes them perfect for spaces where the larger species would be impractical. These deciduous plants spend the winter in dormancy, showcasing their smooth, gray bark and well-balanced branching shape. They naturally grow in a pleasing form and require little, if any, pruning for most of their lifespan. In spring, before their leaves grow back, large, fuzzy buds swell and break open into large, softly colored blooms. A mature plant can produce hundreds of blooms at one time, covering itself with gorgeous, goblet-shaped, pink and purple flowers that have a wonderful fragrance. The blooms face upwards, showcasing their attractive shape and highlighting the deeper color of the outer tepals. They are four to five inches long and can have anywhere from seven to 20 tepals or petals. The flowers have a citrus fragrance, not unlike the giant Southern magnolia. Soft, broad, green foliage follows as the flowers fall, making this an attractive addition to the summer landscape. While it is primarily a spring bloomer, a happy plant can continue to bloom sporadically in the summer. The leaves do change to bronze and yellow in the fall, but the colors are not typically noteworthy. Lily magnolia is native to southern and eastern China. It typically grows at forest edges, on slopes, and in moist but well-drained soil. It is flexible about light and soil type and handles more shade than most species. The best time to plant deciduous magnolias depends on your climate, but always while it is dormant. In warmer climates, like zones 8 and 9, you can plant in late fall or in winter, as the soil stays workable in these regions in most cases. In cooler climates, wait until late winter or early spring as soon as you can work the soil.

Loquat Tree

The loquat tree (Eriobotrya japonica) is an evergreen tropical tree that produces sweet, delicious fruit. In the right conditions, it's an excellent tree to grow. Grown either as a loquat tree or a shrub, this fruiting plant is an interesting one. A relative of the rose, it makes small fruits that taste like a blend of peaches, citrus, and mango. It has a honey note. But most people have never tasted it and know virtually nothing about this unusual fruit or the lushly-tropical tree it grows on! I will fix that because loquats are delicious, nutritious, and fun to grow if you’re in the right climate to do it. These evergreen trees are a beautiful ornamental species, and with fresh fruit, it’s worth growing!With an average top height of 30 feet, it can become a sizeable evergreen tree. However, it’s more commonly kept in the 10 to 15-foot range by commercial growers for ease of maintenance and harvesting. At the 10-foot height, it is treated more like a dense, tree-like shrub. While as many as 800 cultivars are available, they are all the same base species. Loquats are also called the Japanese plum tree, Chinese plum, or Japanese medlar. In China the tree and its fruit are called Pipa.The loquat tree (Eriobotrya japonica) is native to southeastern China and possibly parts of southern Japan. It thrives in subtropical to mild temperate regions and has been cultivated in its native areas for thousands of years. The tree is particularly well-suited to regions with warm, sunny climates and moderate rainfall. Over time, it has spread to other parts of Asia, the Mediterranean, and subtropical regions worldwide. The loquat is now widely naturalized in many areas.The loquat tree (Eriobotrya japonica) is native to southeastern China and possibly parts of southern Japan. It thrives in subtropical to mild temperate regions and has been cultivated in its native areas for thousands of years. The tree is particularly well-suited to regions with warm, sunny climates and moderate rainfall. Over time, it has spread to other parts of Asia, the Mediterranean, and subtropical regions worldwide. The loquat is now widely naturalized in many areas.The loquat tree (Eriobotrya japonica) is native to southeastern China and possibly parts of southern Japan. It thrives in subtropical to mild temperate regions and has been cultivated in its native areas for thousands of years. The tree is particularly well-suited to regions with warm, sunny climates and moderate rainfall. Over time, it has spread to other parts of Asia, the Mediterranean, and subtropical regions worldwide. The loquat is now widely naturalized in many areas.The tree has a rounded or spreading crown and dense foliage. The leaves are large, leathery, and dark green with a glossy upper surface and a slightly hairy underside. Loquat trees produce fragrant, white to cream-colored flowers in late autumn or early winter, which develop into clusters of golden-yellow to orange fruit. The fruits are small, oval, or pear-shaped, with a sweet and tangy flavor. They contain one to four glossy brown seeds. In traditional Japanese and Chinese medicine, the fruit and the leaves of the loquat plum fruit tree are used for multiple different purposes. The Chinese use the fresh fruit to make a syrup to ease coughs. The leaves are used in Japan to make biwa cha, a beverage which is believed to help with skin conditions and help with bronchitis or other respiratory illnesses. Both the leaves and the seeds have small amounts of cyanogenic glycosides that release cyanide when digested. However, small amounts of these compounds rarely have any effect. It’s still good to avoid eating the seeds or the leaves, and to keep them away from children and pets.

‘Forest Pansy’ Redbud Trees

In this piece, Master Naturalist Sarah Jay discusses how to grow and care for ‘Forest Pansy’ Redbuds. Read on to learn how to include these stunning North American cultivars in your landscape. Redbud trees are some of the most interesting landscape specimens for a garden. As a native plant gardener I’m personally stoked to plant one in my yard! And I might just choose a ‘Forest Pansy’ redbud when the time comes. This cultivar is similar to the straight species with some notable differences. These trees are medium-sized, so you’ll need a bit of space to grow your own. But even a smaller yard will benefit from the presence of this stunning tree. If you’re wondering how to care for your own ‘Forest Pansy‘ redbud, we’ve got you covered! We’ll walk you through the process of planting and caring for one, and we’ll discuss what makes this cultivar different from the beloved native from which it originated. Cercis canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ is a gorgeous spring bloomer that comes from the eastern North America native redbud tree. Both subsist in many different soils and can be planted outside their native range. Even better if they are planted within it, but they will survive in USDA zones 5-9. Like other redbuds, these are understory trees that thrive in forested areas. They can tolerate full sun in an open area, while the straight species is most commonly found in grasslands. The margins of forests and prairies are also great planting spaces for these trees. This native is a perennial, deciduous tree with heart-shaped leaves and bright purple flowers—similar to the straight species. The beautiful blooms on this 15-to-30-foot tree develop in early spring and are a pollinator magnet, both as a host and a source of food. The southern blueberry bee (Habropoda laboriosa) is reliant on redbuds. As members of the Legume family, redbuds have nitrogen-fixing capabilities valued in food forestry. This capacity allows them to help other plants establish themselves, facilitating nutrient transfer between microbes in the soil. The genus Cercis comes from the Greek word kerkis, which refers to the resemblance of each seed pod to a weaver’s shuttle. These pods form in spring after the pea-like purplish-pink flowers bloom and are pollinated in spring. As the summer wears on, the seeds within the pods mature, and in fall, they dry. What distinguishes this tree from the eastern redbud is its ornamental appeal. Unlike its parent’s leaves, ‘Forest Pansy’ develops deep red leaves in spring. These fade to green by early summer and then turn fiery red and gold in autumn. The trunk of the tree is also quite sturdy. Both have a rounded form, which along with its foliage is appealing to those in need of a striking specimen. ‘Forest Pansy’ was a chance discovery at the McMinnville, Tennessee Forest Nursery. The nursery had established a name for itself as a source for redbuds. Either the owner of the nursery or the foreman found the tree growing among other young saplings in 1947. Redbuds thrive in the southeastern regions of North America from the Atlantic coast to Central Texas, where the terrain is typically forest or grassland. Unlike other varieties, eastern redbuds require moderate amounts of water, as their native range typically receives more rainfall. Fall is the best time to plant a redbud, as this gives the tree plenty of time to develop roots before the following spring flowering. Spring is a close second but requires more care. Find a partial sun spot with at least 15 feet on all sides before you start the planting process. This ensures the best future for your Forest Pansy.

Star Magnolia Trees

Deciduous magnolias may not be as well known as their evergreen cousins, but they are no less beautiful. Star magnolia is a stunning tree that falls into this group. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to talk about planting and caring for your own star magnolia. If you’re looking for a magnolia tree that can handle the cold, this Japanese native is the perfect pick. It is low-maintenance, widely adaptable, and hardy down to a whopping -30°F (-34°C)! Unlike its southern magnolia relatives, star magnolia trees are hardy to zone 4 and come from mountainous regions. Growing up in tropical zone 11, I had no idea how beautiful any of the magnolia trees were. Certainly, I had seen photos of their large, creamy white blooms, but without seeing one in person, it’s hard to grasp the true beauty of a plant. When in college in North Florida, I first encountered the Japanese magnolia. I was smitten from the first look. One smaller subset species worth adding to the garden is the star magnolia tree or Magnolia stellata. Here’s how to grow this showstopper! Japanese magnolias are wonderful blooming trees that prefer mild climates. They are more cold-tolerant than the evergreen types, so you can grow them in a wider range of climate zones. These deciduous trees produce incredibly beautiful flowers in spring, soft, attractive foliage in summer, and they even offer a bit of fall color. They are relatively easy to care for and require only a modicum of maintenance once established. This star of the garden is a flowering deciduous small tree or large shrub. Compact varieties of star magnolia trees may only reach 10 feet tall, while standard types may grow up to 25 feet at maturity. They are moderate growers, putting on between one and two feet per year, depending on their environment. In general, Japanese magnolia species are spring bloomers, though they vary by species. Star is an early bloomer, beginning in February, depending on the climate. The colder the climate, the later they bloom, up until about April. The flowers open from soft, fuzzy buds and look like large, white stars, which is where this species gets its name. The flowers are between one and four inches across and are usually pure white. A couple of cultivars have yellow undertones, and some have a touch of pink. Depending on the variety, they have between 7 and 30 petals and a light, pleasant fragrance. Rather than the rounded, tulip shape of other plants in the genus, these have elongated, straplike petals. Orange fruit cones develop over the summer and provide food for birds in the fall. They can have one or multiple trunks, depending on how you prune them while young. In general, they have more branching than other Japanese cultivars. The bark is attractive, lightly textured, and silvery gray. The foliage is soft and oblong. It changes to bronze in the fall, but it’s not particularly noteworthy in contrast to the spring blooming habit. Star magnolia trees are native to Japan, where they grow in the highlands of the island of Honshu. This part of the world has cool summers, cold winters, and quite a lot of snowfall. It’s a mountainous region, and higher elevations experience a greater fluctuation in climate. This species came to America in the 1860s. The ideal time to plant a star magnolia tree is while it is still dormant. In late winter, before the buds break, dig a hole that is two to three times the width and as deep as your root ball. Choose a location with some shelter from the wind, as a late frost with strong winds can harm developing buds. Water the tree well before planting to hydrate it, which reduces shock. It’s a great idea to amend your soil with compost to give it an extra boost from the beginning. Position your root ball in the hole and backfill, then water it thoroughly. For the first three to six months, water it two to three times per week. Once established, continue to water weekly in the absence of rain for the next two years. Applying a layer of mulch around the base will help hold in moisture, which magnolias appreciate. Leave some space around the trunk to avoid fungus and pest infestation.

Bottlebrush

Grow a bottlebrush tree or shrub for its showy flowers. There are many varieties to choose from, big or small.Named for its bottle brush-shaped flowers, this plant can grow as a tree or a shrub. Originating in Australia, there are around 50 species of bottlebrush plants, each with a slightly different growth pattern. The bottlebrush tree is a great attractor of pollinators and is closely related to the paperbark melaleuca. It’s such a close relative that all but four varieties have been moved to the melaleuca category! While commercial nurseries continue to sell most bottlebrush trees as callistemon, most scientists and botanical gardens have made the transition to new names. No worries, though – I’ll make sure you have both to choose from. Whether you grow your bottlebrush as a shrub or a full bottlebrush tree, you’ll enjoy the bright spikes of color! And so will the local butterflies and bees.A bottlebrush is several species of shrubs or small trees from the genus Callistemon and Melaleuca, native to Australia. They are well-known for their distinctive, bright red, cylindrical flower spikes that resemble a traditional bottle brush used for cleaning bottles, hence the name. The most common species is Callistemon citrinus, also known as the crimson bottlebrush.Bottlebrush trees, specifically from the genus Callistemon, are native to Australia. They occur naturally in the eastern and southeastern parts of Australia. In their native habitat, they are often found along streams and in wet or swampy areas, although they are highly adaptable and can also thrive in drier, well-drained environments. They are often cultivated in other parts of the world due to their showy flowers.

Weeping Fig Tree (Ficus Benjamina)

The weeping fig tree, botanically Ficus benjamina, is excellent for a shady position outdoors in a tropical environment. It also makes a good houseplant in a large pot.Ficus benjamina, also known as the weeping fig tree, is a beautiful and beneficial tree that comes from Southeast Asia and Northern Australia. It’s the official tree of Bangkok, and we here at Epic Gardening can definitely see why! The tree can be grown in the ground in certain regions and makes a lovely houseplant in containers. It’s not hard to care for, which means you can grow one at home in smaller or larger spaces. In this guide you’ll learn exactly how to grow a weeping fig plant in your home, as well as the beneficial properties it has for your health.The weeping fig tree (Ficus benjamina) is one of the best plants to have in your home when it comes to removing formaldehyde from the air. It also purifies air of toluene and xylene. In fact, it was studied by NASA as a plant to include in space flight due to its toxin-cleansing properties.Ficus benjamina is also known to have roots that can cause significant damage to soil structure outside its native range of Asia and Australia. They can lift sidewalks, and foundations when allowed to grow too tall. In areas that are prone to hurricanes, they can fall over in the face of gale winds. In this regard, unless you live in a tropical region, keep one as a houseplant, or outdoors as a very short shrub.It can grow up to ten feet indoors but can also be grown outdoors, where it gets considerably taller. It’s a staple of landscaping for hospitals, parks, and playgrounds around the country. Some of the tallest ones can reach over 100 feet tall! As the plant ages, the leaves will turn a darker green. The leaves have a glossy look to them, almost as if they have been polished. These trees are monoecious, and the inflorescence is small, pinkish-white, and egg-shaped. They are one of three types: male, fertile, or sterile female flowers. Each of these flower types has a distinct morphology. Male flowers have free sepals and a pronounced stamen. Fertile flowers have three to four sepals and an egg-shaped ovary. When pollinated, the flowers produce berries (which are actually ripe figs) that contain seeds.To plant in the ground, choose a location with well-draining soil and partial to full sunlight, ensuring it is away from structures or underground pipes, as its roots can be invasive. Dig a hole twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball to allow roots to spread easily. Mix the soil with compost or organic matter to improve fertility and drainage. Remove the plant from its container and gently loosen the roots before placing it in the hole at the same depth as it was in the pot. Fill the hole with the amended soil, pressing it gently to eliminate air pockets. Water deeply immediately after planting, and apply a layer of mulch around the base to retain moisture and regulate temperature. Regular pruning will help maintain its size and shape in the landscape. To plant in a pot, choose a container with drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. Select a pot slightly larger than the current root ball to allow room for growth. Gently remove the plant from its original container, loosening the roots if compacted. Place the plant in the new pot so the root ball sits at the same depth as before, then fill the surrounding space with the potting mix, pressing it lightly to secure the plant. Water thoroughly until water drains from the bottom, then allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. Position the pot in a location with bright, indirect light, and avoid sudden changes in light or temperature, which can stress the plant.

Newly-Planted Trees: 5 Watering Tips

Early spring is tree planting season, and we are getting ready to add some of our favorites to the garden. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss to discuss when you should water those new trees and how much they need. Early spring is an ideal time for planting new trees in your yard. Planting in spring means that your new tree has ample time to set down roots and adapt to its new location before next winter. It also gives it some time to adjust before the heat of summer, which can cause stress to many plants. The best time to put new trees in the ground is while they are still dormant. For many, this means late winter, as soon as the ground is workable. In warmer climates, you can plant your trees even earlier, as long as you’re able to dig a hole. Whatever the time of year, new trees need some special care considerations. Perhaps the most important care these young plants need is consistent and appropriate watering. Water is necessary for root development, and it helps buffer the shock of transplanting. It’s vital to establish a routine that addresses your tree’s needs from the time of planting through the end of its first year. Your irrigation regularity will shift a few times over the span of that first year. The most important stage is the first few weeks, but even once your plant comes out of dormancy and starts putting out new growth, it will continue to need special consideration. Let’s take a look at how your irrigation routine should evolve over the coming year. Transplanting a tree is a stressful event, and water is a key factor in minimizing that stress. It’s vital to help your plant acclimate to its new home. Another important factor in root development is the soil. Compacted soil is tougher for those roots to break through. Looser soil promotes better development. When you plant your tree, make sure to water it the day before. Dig a hole that is as deep and at least twice as wide as the root ball. This loosens the ground directly around the ball, allowing for good root development. Water the hole before placing your tree. Fill the hole with water, and then plant your tree and backfill with soil. Immediately after planting, water deeply, soaking the ground. If the water prompts the soil to sink slightly, add more soil to the sunken area. Deep watering means deep roots. Cover the ground around the trunk with a thick layer of mulch to protect the roots and help retain moisture. You don’t want the soil to dry out completely while the plant is acclimating. Leave a few inches of space between the mulch and the trunk so it will form a sort of doughnut. This reservoir will hold water in place so it can absorb rather than running off. It also keeps pests and diseases from sitting against the trunk. This next category covers about two to three weeks, and it’s a vital time to keep up with care. Your plant will need moisture, consistently during this time. The amount of rainfall will naturally change the frequency that you need to water. The general rule is every day to every other day for the first few weeks. If you get a significant amount of rainfall, you can adjust this. But, significant means at least one inch. Otherwise, make sure you stay on top of it. This is the most vital time in reducing stress and helping your tree to recover from transplanting. For the first season after planting, you’ll need to continue watering regularly. If you planted in the spring, that means you should follow this guideline for about 12 weeks, until early summer. During this time, you can reduce from every day to once every two to three days. You want to thoroughly soak the ground, reaching all the way down past the roots of your plant. Go slowly so that all the moisture absorbs into the ground rather than running off. A good way to do this is to wet the ground first. If the earth is too dry, it won’t be as absorbent. After wetting the root zone and allowing that to soak in, set your hose to a slow stream and lay it on the ground. Allow the water to soak that area, and then move it around the tree’s dripline to ensure moisture gets to the entire root system. From here, we move on to the duration of the year. It may seem like three months is enough to get your tree acclimated. But it truly takes closer to a year for the roots to grow into the surrounding earth. Once this happens, and they grow deeper, they will find water more easily. If you planted in spring, I recommend watering regularly through the summer. The general rule is once per week after the first 12 weeks, but summer weather should dictate frequency. If you get a lot of rain in the summer, once per week should be plenty. My Florida summers are hot and can be dry during some years. In this event, it’s good to water anytime the ground is dry. Don’t underestimate the value of mulch to retain moisture in the earth. Mulch is quite beneficial to your new plants, and old ones, too. As you move into fall, you can reduce to once per week unless you’re getting regular precipitation. As the weather cools off and your tree begins to enter dormancy, it will require and use fewer resources. Reduce watering to once every two weeks for the remaining months. It can take up to two years for your tree to establish a strong root system. Don’t make the mistake of giving up early and expecting the second year to be maintenance-free. Make sure you pay attention to moisture levels and supplement when you need to, throughout that second year. As with most things in gardening, there are exceptions to consider. Different environmental factors should influence your routines and decisions when it comes to watering. Your soil composition plays a starring role in watering. Not all types offer the same water retention, which can be good and bad. The ideal type of soil for most plants is loamy and well-draining. If you have a lot of clay or sand to contend with, you’ll need to factor that into your schedule. Clay-heavy ground tends to compact easily, and though it can absorb and contain a lot of moisture, drainage is often an issue. Overwatering can be as harmful as underwatering because it often leads to root rot. If you have poor drainage, reduce watering accordingly. Conversely, sand has the opposite issue. It drains quickly and doesn’t have good retention. It’s difficult to overwater your plants if you have soil with a high sand content. Naturally, rain is an influencing factor here because if you get a lot of rain, you won’t need to water as frequently or as much. Remember that one-inch rule. If you get less than one inch of rain in the interval between waterings, you need to take action. That means for newly planted trees, one inch of rain every two to three days for the first 12 weeks would be necessary. Heat and sun exposure are also important factors to consider. Heat and sun influence evaporation. If it’s very hot outside, the soil will dry faster, and you’ll want to compensate. This is why I say that if you planted in spring, you may want to continue watering frequently through the summer. We addressed this to a degree when talking about soil composition, but there are other things that can influence drainage. For example, if you are at the top of a hill, chances are you will have better drainage than someone at the bottom of a valley. Water flows downward, so low-lying spaces need less frequent watering, and vice-versa.

Sago Palm Trees

Sago palms are a striking tropical with a rosette of fronded leaves. In the garden or as a houseplant, they make a long-lasting feature. Garden expert Katherine Rowe explores how to incorporate the handsome and historic specimen into your collection. Sago palms feature a whorl of evergreen leaves that form a rosette of dark green fronds. A staple of southern and coastal gardens, the tropicals thrive in warm climates with only short spells of below-freezing temperatures. They’re also easy-care houseplants, making them versatile across growing zones for overwintering indoors. Sagos belong to the ancient family Cycadaceae, with pre-historic origins some 200 million years ago, before dinosaurs walked the earth. Sagos aren’t true palms but cycads, more closely related to conifers than palms. But, their feathery fronds are palm-like nonetheless and make a stately accent in the border, along foundations, and as container features. The ancient genus holds about 100 species, with sagos as the most common. Cycas revoluta are long-lived and very slow-growing, reaching their maximum height in 50 years or more. Young plants take several years to reach two to three feet tall and wide. Some of the oldest species are over 200 years old. Originating in Japan’s subtropical southern islands, they lend a tropical flair and contrasting texture among other broadleaf plantings. The cycads are Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit recipients for their multi-season appeal, minimal maintenance requirements, and pest and disease resistance. Their fine texture adds interest and contrast among mixed plantings in a foundation or shrub border. Pair them with other tropicals like fatsia, farfugium, philodendron, cast iron plant, and dwarf palmettos for a diverse arrangement in partially shaded areas. They’re handsome among tailored compositions like boxwoods and with dwarf cypress, gardenias, and azaleas. Sagos also stand alone in containers flanking a front porch, kept small in indoor pots, or for bonsai. The dominant features of the cycad are its long, symmetrical, whorled leaves that emerge from a central crown and a shaggy trunk. The stems reach 20 to 60 inches long and hold slender leaflets that create a fronded look. Dark green, stiff, and highly polished, three to six-inch long leaflets line the arching stems with perfect spacing. The needled leaflets are attractive all year on sturdy and strong stems. Each leaflet has a spiny tip, so make sure they’re out of the way in high-traffic areas to avoid a poke. Sagos are gymnosperms, meaning they don’t produce flowers but a cone-like structure for reproduction and fruiting. They’re dioecious, requiring both a male and female plant for pollination to produce seeds. Bees and other insects visit each plant and transfer pollen from the male to the female as they go. Wind, too, disperses granules between plants to promote seeding. Sagos have ancient reproductive characteristics, where the male produces a central golden cone in late spring to early summer. Females have a fuzzy flowerhead that becomes packed with seeds. The bright orange or red seeds mature by fall. Indoors, cone production is less common. Sagos are toxic to people and pets if ingested, especially the seeds. Use caution in placement indoors or out with pets or children nearby, and use gloves when pruning, dividing offsets, or harvesting seeds. Cycas revoluta is native to the Japanese island of Kyushu, the Ryukyu archipelago, and southern China. They grow in thickets along hillsides. The islands are humid, sunny, and subtropical, with rainy seasons and typhoons. They experience warm summers and cool, moist winters. Fall and spring are the best times for planting. Cool temperatures and seasonal moisture give plants time to establish before winter and summer temperature fluctuations. For the least stress, avoid frozen or waterlogged conditions and extreme heat or drought periods. When planting, space the trees four to six feet apart to allow room for mature growth. Keep them out of overly windy spaces to protect foliage and stems; under a tree canopy or with a shrub buffer helps. The slow-growing cycads perform beautifully in a container and seldom need repotting. They prefer to be a little root-bound to produce new shoots. Refresh potting soil or move them to bigger quarters every few years. A well-draining potting mix is essential, and one for palms or cacti works well.

Melaleuca Quinquenervia

Thinking of adding a Melaleuca Tree to your home landscape or garden area? This tree can be considered invasive due to it's extremely fast growth rates, and quickly expanding roots. You'll want to consider all the facts before adding one of these trees to your home or garden. Find out all you need to know about planting, growing, and caring for this majestic tree.Have you been eyeing the Melaleuca Quinquenervia also known as “Paperbark” to spruce up your garden? Well, this guide tells you everything that you need to know to plant, grow and care for the Australian native Melaleuca tree. The history of the plant will get explained along with the best conditions to facilitate growth. Because this tree is a special case when it comes to its status as an invasive species, we’ve also answered some frequently asked questions regarding the Melaleuca Quinquenervia. If you can look past any hazards, or if you live in an area that is unaffected by the tree, no worries! By the end of the article, you will be ready to plant, grow and care for your very own Melaleuca tree!The term invasive species describes any species which presents a significant threat to native habitats and species throughout the country. Moreover, these invasive species are costly for agriculture, forestry, and recreation. Trees that have become invasive have typically spread outside of their natural ranges by human means. When a species of tree is not native to an ecosystem, and it gets determined that their presence will harm the environment or the economy, it is deemed invasive.

Indoor Palm Trees

Palm trees add tropical energy to your space, and potting them makes them great for anyone, including those living in cold climates. Florida gardener Melissa Strauss talks about how and when to fertilize them to keep those vacation vibes strong. There’s no denying that palm trees make popular potted plants. These large tropical plants can transport us to an island paradise without leaving the house. There are many beautiful types of palms that thrive in containers and make nice patio or houseplants. Palms are typically considered to be heavy feeders. They need a steady and substantial supply of nutrients available for their use, especially during their growing season. Potted plants typically require more fertilizing than their grounded counterparts. It stands to reason, as there is less substance to hold those nutrients. If you want a strong, beautiful, healthy tree, it’s important to provide the necessary nutrients. This can be a challenge with the type of soil these plants prefer and the small amount of nutrients it can hold. Let’s talk about the different factors that will make fertilizing your potted palms a seamless and successful process. While all palms need roughly the same composition and amount of fertilizer, it’s always good to know what type you have. Once you know the species, discover the native habitat of your tree and what type of environment it naturally grows in. I like to do this with every plant, as it gives me a better idea of what temperatures it thrives in. It will help you to understand other aspects of care, such as soil type, nutrient needs, and humidity requirements. While this information won’t make a great difference in how much and with what you’ll want to fertilize, it’s still helpful to know. Having your plant in the right potting mix and environment will all contribute to its overall health. Providing your palm with the right soil type and container will go a long way toward keeping it happy. These plants have thin, fibrous roots rather than central tap roots. The root system is dense and spreads out horizontally rather than running deep into the soil. So, how does this influence soil and container type? First, you’re better off with a container that is wider than it is deep. This accommodates the root system, which naturally wants to spread out wider to support the weight of the tree. Choose a container that is wider than the root ball. In terms of soil, a sandy loam is ideal for most. Those fine, fibrous roots are sensitive to wet soil, so the potting mix needs excellent drainage. Mixing some large particles into the mix is another helpful thing to do. Your soil should be loose so that those delicate roots can easily expand through it. Still, it’s best to know what type of soil is needed for the type of palm you have. Palms planted outdoors and in the ground need fertilizing about three times per year. Once in the spring, once in the summer, and again in the fall. Because of the limited amount of nutrients a potted plant has access to, it’s important to fertilize more frequently. Your palm will enter a growth phase in the spring, which is when it’s important to begin. Fertilize every two to four weeks in the spring and summer. If you use a slow-release formula, once every two to three months should provide all it needs. If not, once or twice monthly should be adequate. In the fall, fall back a bit, but don’t stop completely. You can reduce it to once a month with a regular formula. A single application of slow release in the fall should be just right. Stop applying in the winter, as the tree needs a dormant period to rest when daylight hours decrease. When your plant is dormant, it cannot absorb the same amount of water or nutrients, so you should reduce both to avoid root damage. Indoor palm tree fertilizers are not difficult to find if you want to purchase a formula created specifically for these plants. If you want a more all-purpose formula, look for one with higher nitrogen and potassium. Those are the first and last numbers in the N-P-K formula. A ratio of 12-4-12 or 8-2-12 is a good place to start. Make sure that you choose a fertilizer with important micronutrients, as well. Palms need plenty of iron, copper, manganese, zinc, and boron to stay healthy. Whether you choose a liquid soluble or slow-release is a matter of personal preference; they are both effective. Water your plant before and after fertilizing. Fertilizing already moistened soil helps to prevent fertilizer burn. It also helps the plant to absorb those important nutrients, rather that having them sit solely in the soil. Giving too many nutrients while a plant is dormant can have the same effect as giving too much during a growth period. Because the plant can’t absorb and utilize all the nutrients you’ve given it, it sits on the outside of the roots. During dormancy, your plants take in less of all resources. The daylight hours decrease, which signals dormancy. Then, all systems slow down. Water and nutrients follow, becoming less important. Watering too much during this time can invite fungi that cause root rot. Fertilizing during this time is likely to cause root damage as well, and ultimately the rest of the plant can suffer. Because they are heavy feeders, it’s easy to overfertilize your palms. This seems counterintuitive, but it means that you’ll be giving nutrients more frequently, so there is a better chance of overdoing it. Fertilizer burn is what happens when a plant receives more nutrients than it can absorb. Fertilizer burn will often manifest as damage to the newest fronds of your palm. The newest spear or the youngest leaves are the first to suffer. Using the correct type of fertilizer and following the directions can help you avoid this issue. If you see the effects of too much fertilizer burning the tips of leaves, don’t despair. Flush your soil and the roots with fresh, clean water. Then, hold off on your next scheduled dose. Giving too many nutrients while a plant is dormant can have the same effect as giving too much during a growth period. Because the plant can’t absorb and utilize all the nutrients you’ve given it, it sits on the outside of the roots. During dormancy, your plants take in less of all resources. The daylight hours decrease, which signals dormancy. Then, all systems slow down. Water and nutrients follow, becoming less important. Watering too much during this time can invite fungi that cause root rot. Fertilizing during this time is likely to cause root damage as well, and ultimately the rest of the plant can suffer. Just as too much fertilizer can cause issues, so too can a shortage. I mentioned that these plants need a significant amount of nutrients, macro and micro. When one of these things is out of balance, you may see signs pop up. It’s good to be able to recognize and diagnose these issues. Potassium deficiency is the most common in palms. If you notice spots on the fronds that are yellow and begin to thin out, becoming translucent, it’s probably this issue. Eventually, those leaf tips will turn brown. More damage, such as necrosis, will show on the ends of the fronds and less at the base. A boron deficiency may show up as stunted or damaged new growth. If you notice the ellowing of older fronds, it’s probably a magnesium deficiency. If the issue is a lack of manganese, the new growth may unfurl with a frizzled appearance. This is a deadly deficiency for palms, and it’s typically the result of soil that is too alkaline. Alkaline soil prevents certain nutrients from breaking down and becoming available to the plant. Potting mixes typically have a low enough pH to avoid most of these issues, but over time, that can change. If you have a palm that has been in the same soil for an extended time, re-potting along with a regular fertilizer schedule should help to correct most nutrient issues.

Mangrove Trees in Florida: What Are They And Why Are They Important?

Are you curious about mangrove trees you've seen across the Florida coastline? Mangrove trees can come in many different shapes and colors, and they are critical not just to the ecosystem in Florida, but around the world. Read on to learn more about these amazing trees, and why they are so important. If you’ve spent time at the southern coast of Florida, you may have noticed strange-looking forests of trees and shrubs at the water’s edge. These are mangrove forests. The United States has around 1,500 square miles of mangrove forests. Almost all of these are located at the southern Florida coast. Unlike indoor plants that are purely decorative, Mangroves have plenty of purposes and are of great importance to Florida’s natural ecosystem. Since the coast is normally an uninhabitable area for trees, naturally this can encourage a variety of questions from Florida natives and non-natives alike. You may be asking, why are they able to survive in these areas? What are the purposes that make them so important? In this article, we will answer these questions and more. By the end, you’ll understand why Florida mangroves are critical to the Florida ecosystem, and why they need to be preserved. Keep reading to find out more about these majestic trees, their importance, the troubles they are currently facing, plus what we can do to help. What Are Mangroves? Mangrove Trees are located off coastal locations all over the world. Mangroves are trees or shrubs that grow in salt water along the coastline. While it may be unusual that these trees grow in saltwater, they are actually able to derive fresh water from where they are planted. Some of the mangroves are able to secrete excess salt through their leaves. Others block the salt at the roots. The low-oxygen soil and slow current of water allow sediments to build up, thus providing a suitable home for the mangrove trees. Since mangroves cannot tolerate cold temperatures, they grow only in tropical or subtropical regions, just like the south of Florida. You can identify mangroves not just by where they live, but by the dense system of prop roots exposed above the water’s edge. This makes it look like the trees are standing on stilts. Prop roots have also given the mangrove the nickname “the walking tree”. The tangled prop roots provide a means for the mangroves to survive getting flooded. This happens at least twice a day, with the rising and falling of the tides. These roots are also instrumental in slowing the movement of tidal waters. This makes the sediments settle out of the water and build up the muddy bottom nicely. Are All Mangrove Trees Related? It’s interesting to note that the various species of mangroves are not really closely related to each other. Although, they all have the capacity to grow in unlikely terrain. There are around 54 species of true mangroves that belong to 16 different families. In Florida, the most well-known mangrove is probably the red mangrove (Rhizophora mangle). It is easily identifiable by its reddish prop roots. Black mangroves (Avicennia germinans) are found in slightly higher elevations from the red mangrove. You can identify them by the many finger-like projections, called pneumatophores, that stick out from the soil around the tree’s trunk. Lastly, white mangroves (Laguncularia racemosa) are found even further upland from red and black mangroves. It has no visible aerial root systems. You can identify the white mangrove by their leaves: they are a light yellow-green color, elliptical in shape, and two have distinct glands at the base of the leaf blade. Beyond this, the term “mangrove” is also used to refer to a mangrove community of trees and shrubs that live along the shoreline. This also creates a place for different plants and animals to call home, all encompassed by the name “mangrove”. The different marine organisms that attach themselves to mangrove roots also help the mangroves by filtering water and trapping nutrients for creatures living among the mangroves to enjoy. Why Are Mangroves Important? Mangrove Trees are an important part of the ecosystem for many reasons. Now that you know what mangrove trees are, it’s time to learn what value they give to the world. There are several different reasons as to why mangrove forests are important. They play a significant role in their ecosystem and beyond. Let’s explore this further. They Provide Shelter As we have previously learned, mangroves have a tangled root system. This creates a great home for significant amounts of biodiversity. The roots form a special underwater habitat. Fish and other organisms, like snails and shellfish, flock to for food and shelter. It provides a safe place for nurseries to form for fish of varying sizes. This keeps them away from predators, allowing them to breed and exist safely. Beyond this, mangroves also make a fantastic place for insects, monkeys, migratory birds, and sea turtles to call home. Many of the species that find themselves seeking shelter in mangrove forests are endangered; mangroves help to sustain their lives in ways that would not normally be possible. They Keep Water Clean Mangroves also help to clean the waters in and around their forests. The dense system of roots traps and filters phosphates, nitrates, and other pollutants. This helps to keep the water quality pure, clear, and healthy. Because they are able to prevent pollutants from contaminating the waters downstream, mangroves help save coral reefs and seagrass beds. They help keep the ocean and nearby water sources clean for everyone. Mangroves also absorb nutrients from runoff, helping prevent harmful algal blooms offshore. This is quite a big problem in South Florida, so we’re glad mangroves are doing their part! They Create Livelihood Mangroves help to create a livelihood for many different kinds of people. The wood from the trees is used in providing fuel and rot-resistant, hardy materials for construction. Many people also use the leaves of mangrove trees as fodder for their animals, helping to sustain local agricultural efforts. This goes double for the different fishing communities that use mangrove forests as a steady supply of fish and shellfish. It’s also a common practice around the world to use the plant extracts medicinally; preliminary studies have shown they have an antibacterial effect against pathogenic bacterial strains. Ecotourism is also a factor in what makes mangrove forests important. This helps to create a good income for those in the area. Sports fishing, birdwatching, and kayaking are all great activities to partake in around the mangrove trees. It also helps that mangrove forests are often located near coral reefs and along sandy beaches. Provided that ecotourism is done sustainably, it can be a great incentive to preserve mangrove trees and continue creating revenue for those who run these businesses. They Protect People Mangroves also have a special role in keeping people safe. Coastal areas benefit from mangrove forests as they protect against erosion, flooding, and hurricanes. Their root systems act as a natural buffer against storm surges and rising tides. This is especially helpful in the fight against climate change. Adding to this, mangroves are part of blue carbon ecosystems. These ecosystems are up to 10 times more effective in absorbing and storing carbon versus terrestrial ecosystems. How mangroves do this is by capturing carbon dioxide emissions and other harmful greenhouse gases. They then store these gases in the carbon-rich soil beneath them. This helps keep the atmosphere cleaner, which is great news for all of us. What Endangers Mangrove Forests? There are a number of dangers to Mangroves, including man-made trash, and climate change. Unfortunately, mangrove forests everywhere are threatened, including the ones in Florida. Studies have shown that over the last one hundred years, Tampa Bay has lost around 44% of its coastal wetlands acreage, including mangroves and salt marshes. Lake Worth has also experienced a changing system in its mangroves; over 87% of its mangrove acreage has been lost in the last 40 years alone! While it’s true that natural degradation of mangrove forests definitely occurs, the majority of mangrove forest loss is a direct result of human activity. Development projects, water pollution, dredging, filling, aquaculture, and deforestation all impact the disappearance of mangrove forests both in Florida and all over the world. This also has a negative impact on the ecosystems housed in the roots of mangroves. Since many of the creatures lose their homes, their lives are also endangered. When mangrove forests are destroyed, they release the massive amounts of carbon dioxide they have been holding onto in their root system. This contributes negatively to climate change. Moreover, as the temperatures climb worldwide, so do the rising sea waters. While mangrove forests are normally able to migrate inland, human development has prevented them from doing this. Mud build-up is also necessary to help the transition. However, in many parts of the world, the waters are rising faster than mud can build up. With the change of the climate also comes an increase in hurricanes and other storms that can severely damage sparse mangrove habitats. What Can We Do to Help? There are many ways that you can help keep Mangroves healthy, starting with getting educated.It goes without saying that there are plenty of factors led by human impact that put these important forests in danger. Some studies show that by the end of the 20th century, over 50% of the world’s mangroves had been destroyed. Today, half of that number remains in poor condition. Given their great significance to humans and animals alike, it is of utmost importance that mangrove forests be revitalized. There are many different ways to help this cause.

Palm Trees Indoors & Outdoors

Looking to plant some palm trees either in your garden, around your home, or perhaps even consider one as an indoor plant? In this guide, you'll learn all you need to know about how to care for palms, no matter the type! You'll learn about their watering requirements, hardiness zones, soil types, pruning needs, and more!Palm trees add the perfect tropical touch to a landscape. Their tall, slender trunks and feather-like fronds, which sway gently in the breeze, create the illusion of a beach setting. Sadly, not all areas are endowed with tropical soil; you may need to learn a thing or two about growing and taking care of them. Proper palm tree care varies depending on the type grown, the location (indoors or outdoors), and the climate. People living in the northern regions, for example, need to grow particular varieties like the cabbage palm and Chinese palm trees and provide special care. Before looking at how to care for palm trees, we explain the process of selecting a young one and the best place to plant it. In the following guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know about their care, both indoors and outdoors.As highlighted earlier, palm tree care begins with the proper selection of a species. There are tropical, subtropical, desert species and those that grow in cold-weather regions like Alaska. Other varieties thrive in moist and dark environments, while others do well in hot climates. Here are popular varieties and where to grow them: These varieties tolerate heat as most of them are from desert climates or warm Mediterranean climates. They include: Date palms: This variety is excellent for commercial use. In the United States, it thrives in sheltered in regions located within USDA zone 8 like California, Nevada, and Arizona King Palm: This kind is best grown in warm climates and moderately humid; too much humidity can burn their leaves and cause them to develop brown spots. King Palms also grow pretty fast, hence being best for outdoor use. Parlor Palm: This variety is ideal for regions within zones 9-10, i.e. areas with temperatures of -6.7C- 4.4 C. The Parlor Palm doesn’t grow as fast; hence it is great for the indoors. Windmill palm: This variety is also great for indoor use because of its slow growth. It’s fan-shaped, has green fronds, and the trunk looks like it has been covered in burlap. This palm thrives best in USDA zones 8-11 (-6.7 C – 10 C)

Damage from Heavy Snowfall: 7 Tree-Saving Strategies

If you’ve heard the snap and crack during a winter weather event, you’ve experienced the dread of a fallen limb or, worse, an entire tree. Garden expert Katherine Rowe looks at the best care for trees after a heavy snowfall to prevent further damage. Trees are the “bones” of the garden and those strong, magnificent bearers of everything from ornamental appeal and shade to soil stabilization, carbon sequestration, and wildlife nesting and forage. While able to withstand all kinds of conditions, heavy, wet snowfall and ice are a lot (literally) for tree branches to hold, causing them to be damaged under the weight. Winter and early spring storms can bring snow, ice, and high winds to cold climates. They also do severe damage in warmer areas that traditionally don’t experience wintry conditions. Specimens with multi stems or brittle limbs are most susceptible to breakage, but all trees can incur damage in winter extremes. How we address heavy snowfall is important in aftercare for susceptible branches, and the proper management keeps us from doing unintentional damage. Preventative measures help overall tree health in withstanding winter weather. Know the Most Susceptible Trees Both deciduous and evergreen tree species are susceptible to damage from heavy snowfall and ice. To hone in on those in your landscape with the greatest tendency to break, here are a few to keep an eye on: Weak-wooded and fast-growing deciduous species like cottonwood, ash, elm, willow, poplar Multistemmed selections like birch, arborvitae, juniper Trees with more than one central leader (main branch) Wide spreading canopies, horizontal branching Those with poor form (deep v-shaped or narrow angles) and deadwood Aged specimens After Care Once the snow falls or ice forms, there are measures to address weighted stems and any resulting breakage. One of the best first steps is to wait until ice and snow naturally melt in warming sunshine, usually a quick process, to assess the damage. For personal safety, we can’t overstate the importance of not standing beneath or working on large trees or branches impacted by heavy snowfall and winter damage. Limbs and entire trunks can snap or uproot at any time due to wet, saturated conditions. Interacting with branches can promote movement and cracking or dislodge hangers. Let snow and ice naturally melt in these cases, and enlist a certified arborist to assess preservation measures post-storm. Snow If heavy snowfall, not ice, is the main event, tend to young and small trees to dislodge the pack and prevent damage. When limbs bend under the weight of heavy snowfall, it’s tempting to give them a hardy shake. Vigorous shaking, though, can cause too much bounceback as stems are flexible. The snapback with the snow lifted may cause splitting. Instead of big shaking, do so lightly. You can also sweep the snow off the branch in an upward motion, keeping the weight off the end of the bending stem. Alternatively, lifting the branch is a safe means of displacement. Using a broom handle or other pole, lift the limb from below for subtle movement. Stand aside and watch for falling branches and snow as you lift. Don’t hit the stem to shed snow; it can damage bark and tissue. Ice Ice storms often do the most damage, sweeping lots of small and large debris from trees in a single event. To view the destruction of a severe ice storm is equivocal to the aftermath of a hurricane. A layer of ice makes stems brittle, and working with them leads to easy breakage. Ice is best left to melt in the sun, as opposed to using hot or cold water to accelerate melting on an above-freezing day. Water adds weight through saturation, and hot water can cause tissue damage in addition. Avoid lifting or shaking icy branches. If the tree shows bending, add a support prop to discourage further weight, but avoid trying to raise the branch. Remove the prop once the ice melts so branches can naturally return to shape. Treating Breakage If damage is minimal (like small twigs and branches), the woody grower will rejuvenate on its own in coming seasons. Breaks that need attention are ragged cuts, hanging limbs, and those not at a growth point. Consider pruning as a means toward recovery if: the tree is otherwise healthy the primary trunk and most significant branches are intact at least 50% of the crown remains the remainder is sound When a limb breaks, it can leave a jagged, splintered cut in the branch or junction point. Make a clean cut when possible to minimize exposed tissue. Reducing exposure prevents subsequent wound damage like moisture and disease intrusion. Trees are adept at healing, and a clean cut is a good foundation for warding off pathogens. New growth emerges at a healthy node before the cut. Trim back any small stem breaks to the first healthy branch. If the end of a large branch is gone, trim it back to a healthy branching node for growth to develop around the tip. On conifers, damage to the central leader is recoverable by pruning it back for new leaders to develop. Continued pruning fosters the best shape for sturdy, wind-resistant forms. Topping, removing, or reducing leaders on all trees results in less structural integrity. They become prone to future weakness and wind toppling. Tree Tying Tying the branches of susceptible evergreen trees is a means of preventing winter damage before a heavy snowfall or storm. This is most feasible for small specimens and young trees. In this method, branches are bundled upward toward the trunk using soft, flexible ties. The aim is to prevent weighty snow from accumulating. It also protects against ice damage. To tie stems, wrap flexible material (bungee cords, fabric strips, nylon hose) around the entire conifer. Create a cone shape with a gentle binding to support stems and shed snow. Remove the ties after the threat passes or late in the season as conditions moderate. Protective Barriers If you have a spot in your yard prone to drifts or piling, like snow sliding off a peaked roof, installing a temporary barrier is an option. These can stay in place all winter to protect individual specimens or go in for the short term before a storm. Wooden Structures Basic wooden structures become reusable forms to hold heavy snowfall off the tree. Repurpose wooden boards to build an A-frame or box structure around the tree. Secure the pieces using nails, screws, or hinges. With the frame in place, use a tarp, plastic sheeting, burlap, or landscape fabric to cover it during the weather event. Staple or tie the cover to the frame. After the weather clears, remove the cover to allow exposure to sunlight, moisture, and airflow. Keep the frame in place for the season, replacing the cover as needed. If leaving the cover in place for extended periods, opt for burlap since it’s breathable. In spring, store the frame for next year or repurpose the wood. Evergreen Boughs Clip evergreen boughs or repurpose your Christmas tree to position against small trees and shrubs. The added coverage collects and displaces snowfall. Arrange the boughs by leaning them against the existing growth so snow slides down and off. The extra insulation also helps against ice. Managing Bent Branches Leaders and stems may show a bent form even after the snow and ice passes. Without breakage present, they’ll likely rebound over time. Resist the urge to prop or tie them up. Let them reform naturally to minimize weakness or breakage. If drooping, bending, or distorting is still evident by early summer, strapping and wooden supports can help train the stems. Use tree staking supplies like flexible straps or fabric strips tied to bamboo or other wooden stakes for repositioning. Take off the strapping in one or two growing seasons to avoid girdling as the tree grows. Preventative Pruning Pruning contributes to long-term health and improves resistance against winter injury. The goal of preventative pruning is to direct growth to retain a sturdy structural form. Leave big cuts and structural decisions to professional arborists. Prune out dead, diseased, or crossing limbs any time of year. Stop any pruning by late summer to avoid generating new growth. Tender stems are susceptible to weakness and winter dieback, potentially damaging the limb in freezing situations. Pruning deciduous trees during dormancy allows full visibility of structure and form while growth is inactive. Pruning when dormant doesn’t promote new growth until temperatures warm. Prune to develop a central leader (primary branch) and a scaffolding structure suitable to the species. Start with young trees to foster the best form and strength.

Mulberry Tree

No matter the fruit color, the fruiting mulberry tree is an easy way to get sweet berries. Red mulberry trees come from America, but there are also white and black mulberries you can grow. Mulberries are the perfect summer treats. It is even better when you can pick out handfuls of these sweet dark fruits right off your own mulberry tree! Fresh mulberries consist of 88% water. A cup of fresh and juicy mulberries (about 140 grams) contains only 60 calories, making it the perfect fruit for casual snacking. Dried mulberries are also popular and can be eaten just like raisins. The dried fruit contains 12% protein, 70% carbs, 14% fiber, and only 3% fats. As compared to most other berries, mulberry has one of the highest protein content levels. They are also loaded with iron, potassium, Vitamin C, E, and K1. Apart from offering sweet, colorful fruit, mulberry trees also provide shade in summer and attract a variety of fruit-loving birds, including bluebirds, tanagers, warblers, and orioles. In the spring, when the mulberry tree is laden with berries, you can also expect bees and butterflies to visit your garden.