trees

How to Overwinter Potted Banana Trees

Banana trees make striking potted plants, but they aren't cold-hardy. There are steps you can take to protect your lovely tropical fruit trees to keep them healthy for when spring rolls around. Florida gardener Melissa Strauss discusses how to treat your potted banana tree to take it through the frosty months. Out of all the fruit trees, I think bananas might be the prettiest. From your common Cavendish to the striking ‘Ensente,’ their large, soft leaves make them good for eating or using as ornamentals. Smaller varieties even make great potted plants; you can grow them indoors under the right conditions! These tropical trees need large containers, at least 15 gallons or more. They prefer well-draining soil with high sand content and plenty of organic matter. They’re not the easiest to care for, but it’s more of a maintenance issue, as they need a significant amount of light and plenty of water. Turns out bananas are thirsty trees. Dwarf varieties are best for keeping in containers. ‘Ice Cream’ is a wonderful cultivar for container growing. The small fruits are a lovely, soft blue shade, and the foliage is large for a smaller variety. Whichever type you choose, if you live north of Zone 9, you’ll have to keep it in a container. Let’s talk about how you can get it through the winter. Banana trees typically like a lot of fertilizer. Fertilizing every six to eight weeks will keep your plant happy and productive. As with most plants, you should only fertilize while the plant is actively growing. As winter approaches, it’s important to stop. The reason for this is the plant’s absorption ability. As your banana enters its dormant stage, not only will it not need fertilizer, it won’t use it. As a result, those extra nutrients will build up in the soil. This causes fertilizer burn. It can desiccate or break down the roots. The ultimate result of fertilizer burn includes stunted growth and leaf development, as well as brown, dry tips on those pretty leaves. As fall draws to a close, ease off of your fertilizing schedule and give your plant the rest it needs. Don’t bring your plant in too soon. You want to expose it to some cool weather. This will signal it to enter dormancy, an energy-saving rest time. Leave it outdoors until just after the first light frost. This won’t harm the roots but will cause the foliage to begin dying back. After the first frost, cut all the leaves off of the tree. Remove them all together, just above the top of the stem, below the lowest leaf. Make your cut at an angle to prevent water from pooling on the top and causing stem rot. Use a clean, sharp tool to make a clean cut. If you’re wondering about the purpose of removing the foliage, it’s simple. Removing the leaves helps the plant to conserve energy while it is dormant. This also makes it much easier to store it indoors for the season. Banana trees can grow rather large. A gradual transition isn’t the most important factor, but it won’t hurt. It also gives you time to make sure you’re not bringing pests in to affect your houseplants. After that first frost, bring your banana into a cool but sheltered spot, like a garage or shed. You don’t have to leave it here for long. A week will suffice. During this time, check in on it and look for signs of pests or diseases. I’ve made the mistake of transitioning outdoor plants to the indoors without this safeguard. It wasn’t pretty. I dealt with spider mites for the entire following year. After this transition period, find a space for your plant that is cool and brightly lit. Don’t place it near a heating element, as this can cause it to come out of dormancy early. You want to keep it cool but give it light. This is a tropical plant, so it won’t go entirely dormant. It still needs light and water, although sparingly. This applies to mild climate areas, so if you live north of Zone 8, you can skip it, as it won’t be necessary. If you bring your plant indoors, it will need no further insulation. If, however, like me, you live in Zone 9 and intend to leave the potted tree outdoors for the winter, you’ll want to offer the roots some protection. There are different ways to do this, but it is easiest to wrap it with bubble wrap or a blanket. Alternatively, you can dig a hole and set the pot down in the hole. Fill it up with mulch to lock in the heat, and toss some frost cloth over the top for good measure. Hopefully, any pest or disease issues will reveal themselves during your transitional period. However, it’s good to keep an eye on things in case something slipped through the cracks. If you do run into an issue, it’s important to isolate and treat it as soon as possible to protect any nearby plants. Just as your tree will use fewer nutrients and need less light, it also needs less water while dormant. Overwatering during this time is a fast road to root rot. In the same way that it won’t absorb as many nutrients, it won’t absorb a lot of water, so the water sits in the soil. Water also evaporates more slowly indoors and in the cooler weather. Rather than sticking to a schedule, monitor your soil and let it tell you when to water. When the top two inches of soil are dry, give it a drink. This will depend on the temperature and humidity of your home, but it shouldn’t be more than once every two to three weeks. Take your time about moving your tree back outdoors in the spring. Wait until a couple of weeks have passed after your last anticipated frost date. You can move it back to your transitional space or move it outdoors but undercover. You can move it outside, into the shade for a few hours a day, gradually exposing it to more sun. If you want to begin doing this earlier in the year, you can, but make sure to bring it indoors at night. A late frost can cause damage. It’s a good idea to re-pot your banana plant every two to three years. If it needs more space, you can size up the container or thin out any pups and give it fresh soil. The best time to re-pot is in the spring before new growth begins. If you need to remove pups and the main plant doesn’t need more space, you can keep it in the same container. Loosen the soil and any circling roots from the inside of the pot. Use a clean, sharp tool to cut the offsets or pups away, and pot these in their own containers. Then, replace the parent plant in its container and fill it in with fresh soil. If your plant has outgrown its present container, size up to a pot that is one size larger than the current one. Don’t go too large. They prefer to be slightly root-bound. Loosen the roots, transfer the plant to its new home, and fill in with fresh soil. Water well and allow the water to drain. At this point, your banana tree is ready to move back outside. It should come out of dormancy as the weather warms. Keep an eye out for new leaves. As soon as it begins growing again, you can resume watering and fertilizing as usual!

June Plum Tree

The tropical June plum tree, a relative of the mango, produces an equally tasty fruit.The June plum tree produces an uncommon tropical treat, not to be compared to the popular plum fruit. The flavor of a June plum resembles a pineapple and mango with the crunch of an apple. The fruits can be eaten unripe or ripe, which can either make the flavor mellow or tangy. June plums are a rare commodity that you probably won’t find at the grocery store. This fruit tree would be an excellent addition to the home garden if your climate permits. June plums thrive in the heat but cannot tolerate frost. They offer more than just fresh fruit. Use the tropical fruit to make juice, jams, and sauces. It can also be pickled and added to dishes for flavoring. The young leaves are also edible and commonly consumed in Southeast Asia, either raw or steamed. Use the leaves to tenderize meat. Fortunately, June plum trees are also very easy to grow. Grow in the ground or in a pot but make sure they have full or partial sun. They are an ideal candidate for a patio fruit tree. They have very few problems in regard to pests and diseases. As long as June plum trees can be protected from frost, there’s no reason not to grow your own!June plum (Spondias dulcis) has many different common names, but the most common are ambarella, golden apple, Jewish plum, and Tahitian plum. Spondias dulcis is in the family Anacardiaceae. Also included in this family are mangos, cashews, and pistachios.

Watering Your Norfolk Island Pine Tree

Norfolk Island pine has soft evergreen needles and a symmetrical form that give it a stately look as a holiday decoration or long-lived houseplant. They bring joy well beyond the holidays but are a bit of a Goldilocks when it comes to watering. Learn how to balance your Norfolk pine’s water needs for fresh, green growth with garden expert Katherine Rowe. Norfolk Island pines are graceful, needled evergreen trees that brighten the winter season, but may require more water than other coniferous plants in your collection. We see them near holiday time, where they make wonderful gifts for the houseplant lover in addition to seasonal tabletop displays. They grow well year-round indoors, and in warm, mild climates (zones 9 to 11), they move to the landscape to become tall specimen trees. The evergreens are low-maintenance in the right situation with ample light and water. Regular irrgation is part of the balance of care—they like soils that aren’t too wet or dry. In the ground, they need little irrigation once established. In a container, they require it more frequently since pots dry out more quickly, indoors or out. Knowing what to look for helps determine a regimen for that just right amount of water for your Norfolk Island pine tree to flourish. Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) lends a lush, tropical look to the garden or home with its pyramidal shape, symmetrical, whorled branches, and soft, deep green needles. The trees are not true pines but a member of an ancient family (Araucariaceae) of pre-historic conifers. Captain James Cook discovered the evergreens on his second voyage (1772-1775) on an uninhabited island off the coast of Australia. In their native range, they grow along seaside cliffs and in temperate rainforests. The “pines” grow up to 200 feet tall, with trunks six feet in diameter. Norfolk Island pine trees made their way into cultivation in 1793 and now grow worldwide, especially in coastal, sub-tropical climates with lots of water from rainfall and humidity. And, of course, they are kept as beloved houseplants. They do best in the morning sun and bright light in well-draining, acidic soils. The top cause of decline in potted Norfolks is overwatering. We sometimes nurture them too much. In their Oceania habitat, they experience regular moisture through humidity and soaking rains, followed by periods of drying out. Volcanic soils are fertile, porous, and well-draining. The tropicals prefer moist, but not oversaturated, soils. Prolonged saturation leads to root problems. Soggy potting media causes decaying roots, where they can’t uptake moisture and nutrients to support the upper growth. Fungal root rot from overwatering is a primary cause of loss. Underwatering is another stressor, forcing the plant to conserve energy to survive. Moisture fluctuations lead to weak roots and less robust upper growth. Branches will brown and drop if water fluctuates widely and stresses the plant. A good rule of thumb for potted Norfolk Island pine trees is to water when the top one inch of soil feels dry to the touch (about knuckle deep). Frequency is usually once a week or two, depending on the growing environment. In more humid environments, they may not need as much irrigation. Err on the dry side rather than overwatering, but don’t allow soil to dry out completely. Norfolk Island pine needs soil with just enough moisture – not too wet or dry. It can tolerate somewhat drier soils but not constantly damp or overly dry. A few factors influence how often to irrigate, including the type of container. Terra cotta pots are porous and tend to dry out more quickly. The porosity and airflow benefits roots but may need irrigation more often. Plastic retains moisture longer, which can be helpful in reducing sessions, but calls for a watchful eye to prevent oversaturation. Plant size and potting medium are additional factors. Well-draining soils are essential; high-quality mixes formulated for pots retain moisture in addition to having good aeration and drainage. Large plants will soak up the moisture, though they are more drought-tolerant with larger root systems. Young plants in smaller pots require it regularly as they quickly develop new roots and leafy growth. Lighting, seasonality, and growing environment also play into how quickly soils dry. Trees in direct sun require more soil moisture, while those in bright, indirect light absorb and evaporate more slowly. In summer, active growth and warm temperatures draw more water, while winter reduces demand. Also, the specific microclimate creates variables in how quickly the soil dries (arid situations versus humid ones, for example). When the surface is soil to that inch or so depth, irrigate thoroughly at the tree’s base until water flows through the pot’s drainage holes. Regular, as-needed deep watering is more beneficial than shallow, more frequent sessions. Some gardeners find it easier to irrigate from under the pot, filling a deep saucer with water for the soil and roots to draw into the pot. Whether top or bottom watering, remove the catchment tray after being allowed to drain. Emptying the dish ensures the pot doesn’t sit in water and take in excess moisture. Since moisture imbalances happen, it helps to know what to look for to correct the course. The soil will feel wet, sticky, and spongey (too much water) or dry, crumbly, and dusty (not enough). ] Green needles will drop from overwatering. Leaves may turn yellow and brown and may drop in both cases, but branches will wilt as a sign of underwatering. If caught early enough, conditions may recover to regenerate healthy roots. There are a few methods to increase air moisture. The first is to group houseplants together. Create a little jungle where evaporation, transpiration, and surrounding soil moisture raise surrounding conditions. Another is to place the Norfolk Island pine tree’s container near a tray of pebbles filled with water. The pots should sit close to the tray to avoid excess saturation. Humidifiers, too, work quickly. Air circulation is equally important to prevent excess moisture on leaves and stems from promoting disease. With a lack of natural breezes, a fan or humidifier works to increase airflow.

Olives

Love olives? Growing olives at home is completely possible! One of the longest-lived fruit trees, olives are a legacy tree that produces fruit for centuries. Everyone knows the olive, a staple of cocktails and great in salads. But have you ever considered growing olives yourself? Perhaps more importantly, is an olive a fruit or a vegetable? Most people seem to consider them to be vegetables. But those black olives on tree branches are most definitely a fruit. They develop in a range of colors: purple, green, dark brown, black, and even pink! Both dwarf olive trees and regular ones originated from western Asia and spread down the coast of the Mediterranean Sea. These lovely trees are evergreen and are considered to be one of the longest-living fruit trees. The average lifespan of these trees is generally between 300 to 600 years. However, some trees can live up to be 4000 years old. One of the oldest olive trees is on the island of Crete. It is believed to be over 4000 years old. The astonishing part is that the tree is still producing fruit! The fruit is loaded with minerals. They are also rich in Vitamin A, B, E, and K. Almost 20% of the fruit is oil, and that shows in its use. While these fruits are used in the culinary world in multiple ways, olive oil is one of the largest uses. About 3.3 million metric tons of olive oil is produced every year.The botanical name of olive is Olea europaea. Generally, the fruit goes by the name olive, and the tree is simply known as the olive tree. The olive tree generally reaches a height of 26 to 49 feet with a round and well-branched crown. Olea europaea is native to most of Africa, Southern Europe and Southern Asia. Various types of these trees are grown in all Mediterranean countries. It is also harvested in Australia, New Zealand, South America, South Africa, and the United States. However, it has become invasive in Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii, and southern California.

Why is My Norfolk Island Pine Tree Dropping Branches?

Is your Norfolk Island Pine tree dropping branches just in time for the holidays? Horticulture expert Matt Dursum takes you through the reasons this could be happening. Few indoor evergreens look as stunning as a Norfolk Island pine tree. Between its scaly, bright green leaves and thin Christmas tree shape, it’s the ultimate alternative to a true pine tree in your home. With minimal care, it will thrive in your home for years. As beautiful and easy to grow as it is, things can go wrong. When its soft leaves and branches start falling off, it often means you have a problem. This subtropical evergreen grows well indoors and doesn’t need much maintenance. However, if its ideal growing conditions aren’t met, it will show signs of stress and become ill. Below are a few reasons your Norfolk Island pine tree is dropping its branches and what to do to help it. Dropping leaves and branches is normal for a healthy plant. If your evergreen is going through a natural growth spurt, there’s nothing to worry about. This tree can reach heights of 200 feet in its native habitat on Norfolk Island. When this pine grows vigorously, it sheds its old foliage to make room for new growth. You may see leaves and even lower branches fall off. There isn’t much you can do as long as the plant appears healthy. Feel the leaves and branches to make sure they’re not dry and brittle. If it’s shedding a small amount of growth and you don’t see other signs of stress, you’re totally in the clear. Norfolk Island pines are native to a subtropical island that lies around 1,000 miles off the coast of Eastern Australia. The island experiences over 50 inches of rain annually and high humidity. If you’re not recreating its humid natural environment indoors, your tree can experience growing problems. Try to keep your space above 50% humidity. If you have a hygrometer, an instrument for checking humidity levels, this should be easy to monitor. Mist it regularly with a spray bottle. You can also place a tray of water next to it. Humidifiers are another great tool for boasting humidity levels. Run one next to your Norfolk Island pine and keep other houseplants nearby. The humidity will increase drastically. Dropping branches from a Norfolk Island pine may appear brown and dry if there is a lack of water. This species doesn’t need a lot of water to thrive, but it does need frequent watering. Let the soil surface dry out in between watering. Once it dries to about two inches, give it a good soaking. Wait until the soil dries, and repeat. If you wait too long in between waterings, it could stress your tree. A thirsty plant will eventually turn brown and drop its foliage and branches. Check the soil for moisture with your finger. If it’s bone dry past an inch or two, it probably needs more water. Give it a good shower and water more frequently. Monitor your plant to see if it becomes greener and healthier. Although your houseplant comes from a warm climate, it doesn’t like extreme heat. The ocean moderates the temperatures on the evergreen’s home island. If it gets too balmy, the tree can become stressed and lose its branches and leaves. Your tree thrives in temperatures between 55-65°F (13-18°C). If a Norfolk Island pine gets too hot or cold, it could stress your subtropical houseplant out, and cause it to drop its branches. Temperatures above 95°F (35°C) or below 50°F (10°C) are too extreme. If you live in a cold climate, keep it away from the window in winter. Plunging temperatures outside could affect the air temperature around your inside window. Also, watch the air vents near your houseplant. If the heat is up too high, it will stress it out. You may feel tempted to fertilize your plant if its branches suddenly start dropping. However, over-feeding could be the cause. Giving it more food than it needs will only stress it out more. Your living Christmas tree doesn’t need a lot of fertilizer to thrive. A little liquid organic houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength can help it during the spring and summer. Feeding your plant in the winter, when new growth is at its slowest, can stress your plant. If you’ve been overfeeding your plant, stop fertilizing immediately. Wait until it recovers before you begin again. Remove any mineral buildup in the topsoil before watering. If this is the stressor, your plant should become vibrant and green within a few days. One of the most common reasons your evergreen is losing its branches is low light. If it’s growing away from a light source, this could be the issue. Rooms, hallways, and living rooms may not be the best locations. Move your tall houseplant near a south-facing window with plenty of light. Avoid growing near north-facing windows in the Northern Hemisphere. A great trick is rotating your plant throughout the week. This lets the sunlight shine on each section, keeping the foliage green and healthy. Your Norfolk Island pine is healthiest in slightly acidic soils with good drainage. Alkaline soils or soils that become soggy can put your plant under stress. Plant your evergreen houseplant in well-draining sandy soil with peat moss. Try to keep the soil pH between 6 and 6.5. You can lower the pH by using mineral additives like this one. Always follow the instructions so you don’t overfeed your plant. If your soil isn’t draining properly, you might have to repot it with better soil. This will stress your tree more but will be better in the long run. Temperature differences of 10° or less are normal, but extreme changes can stress your tree. If temperatures fluctuate more than 10° daily, your evergreen could start to turn brown and lose its leaves and branches. This can happen during the winter if you leave the heat on during the night and turn it off during the day. This fluctuation can send your tree into panic mode. A Norfolk Island pine prefers stable temperatures. Try to keep the temperature of your home between 55°F and 65°F (13-18°C). One final cause could be depleted nutrients in the soil. When your tree outgrows its container and is over three years old, it may be time to repot it. Reporting your large holiday houseplant in new soil should help. Choose a container that’s over two inches larger than the last. Make sure its root system has plenty of room to grow and establish itself. Use a slightly acidic soil that’s porous and full of organic material. If you recently repoted your plant, this too could cause enough stress for it to lose its leaves and branches. Give it enough time to recover from the shock of repotting. During the spring, give it a little organic fertilizer to help encourage new growth. Your Norfolk Island pine makes the perfect holiday houseplant. As resilient as it is, it can show signs of stress when its ideal growing conditions are not met. One of the most common signs of stress is dropping its branches and foliage. Although this is normal in small amounts, it could mean there’s a more serious problem. Go through the list of possible causes to find out what’s stressing your plant. Once you find the issue, you should be able to stop it from losing its beautiful branches.

Blue Spruce Trees

Blue spruce trees add delightful pops of color to the garden. They’re evergreen conifers native to North America that love growing in our front and backyards. Join native plant gardener Jerad Bryant in learning to cultivate and care for blue spruce trees. Native conifers are essential additions to the garden. They provide year-round ornamental interest with needles, cones, and scaly gray bark. The branches provide habitat space for birds, squirrels, and small mammals. The cones feed hungry birds and squirrels, while the flowers offer valuable resin for nest-building bees. Not only are blue spruces valuable for wildlife, but they’re also easy trees to care for. They perform well in their native range without additional care. They’ll need some maintenance if you grow them outside their preferred habitat, although they’ll grow more drought-tolerant and frost-hardy as they mature. Blue spruce, or Colorado spruce, is perfect for native plant gardens, living fences, or specimen plantings. It’ll slowly extend over 50 feet tall with a wide base, filling bare sites with lovely evergreen foliage. Rather than traditional conifer green, go for the bright gray-blue of the blue spruce tree! Blue spruce is an evergreen conifer, meaning it keeps its bright blue needles on its stems throughout the year. It starts as a young sapling and slowly matures into a large, towering tree. Blue spruces originate in mountainous regions from Montana to Mexico. They grow water-preserving needles at high altitudes to conserve moisture when it’s scarce. You’ll find them growing wild in Wyoming, Colorado, and Montana. They’re the official state tree of Colorado! Although blue spruce is a western conifer, it thrives in cool sites from USDA hardiness zones 2 through 7. I see these evergreen trees growing in yards throughout my region of the Pacific Northwest in zone 8. So long as you provide consistent moisture and avoid excessive summer heat, you can cultivate blue spruce in your garden. Spruces, or trees in the genus Picea, share some of the same traits. These conifers grow spiny, evergreen needles that attach to the stems on pegs known as sterigmata. The pegs persist on the stems long after the needles fall off, and you can use them to help you identify this tree from firs or pines. Blue spruces have characteristic blue-green needles. They emerge bright blue at first and fade to a dull green. In the nursery trade, species used for propagating and selling are bright blue specimens under the name Picea pungens var. glauca. These retain their blue color better than most wild trees do. Spruces sprout decorative cones that mature throughout the year. Blue spruces sprout bright red-purple cones that mature to a light brown. The cones hang onto the tree while they release seeds below when conditions are favorable for germination. Some large cones reach up to ten inches long! Because spruces are wild trees, they grow to epic proportions in their native range. You can expect blue spruce to reach between 30 and 60 feet tall when it’s mature. It’ll hold onto the lower branches, creating a pyramidal structure reminiscent of Christmas tree shapes. You’ll find these trees available as potted saplings in nurseries throughout North America. Although sold in eastern states, they perform best in regions near their native range, or cold climates from zones 2 through 7. Consider choosing a different spruce that’s local to your area if you garden in warm regions of the Southeast.

Ice Cream Bean

The ice cream bean is a fast-growing tree that produces strange tropical fruit. The name originates from the fruit's sweetness, with a texture reminiscent of cotton candy.Ice cream bean is a fast-growing tree with many uses, including its exotic fruit! The large fruits contain a sweet, cottony pulp. The edible pulp is where the “ice cream” name comes from, as it has a sweet vanilla taste, sometimes with a cinnamon note, and the texture of cotton candy. The ice cream bean has many different names in its native region, and indigenous peoples use the tree for a variety of uses. The most common use is to eat the cottony fluff straight from the pod, but it can also be used to sweeten and flavor various foods as well. Let’s talk more about this fascinating tropical tree and its strange beans filled with sweet fluffy pith. We’ll go over everything you’ll need to grow and care for your own ice cream bean tree!There are hundreds of species of Inga, and as many as 50 produce edible fruits, each with a slightly different size and taste. While some species, like Inga feuillei, Inga spectabilis, and Inga rhynchocalyx are sometimes confused with Inga edulis, these related species have different shapes of pods that they produce.

Asian Pear Trees

The Asian pear trees produces delicate, sweet fruit. It is also a lovely tree with beautiful white flowers in the spring and vibrant leaves in the fall. Asian pear trees produce golden, apple-shaped fruit that has a sweet pear flavor with the texture of a crisp apple. The Asian pear tree not only produces an abundance of delicious fruit, but it’s also aesthetically pleasing without taking up too much space. It has beautiful white flowers in the spring, lush green foliage in the summer, and colorful falling leaves in the fall. The species name, pyrifolia, means fiery leaves because of its intense fall color. Asian pears can occasionally be found at the grocery store in the United States, but the fruit is very sensitive to bruising. Growing Asian pears at home is the best way to have plenty of quality produce. Unlike European pears, apple pears are greatest when picked ripe, so growing them in your garden guarantees that you can pick and enjoy them when they’re perfect. Keep in mind, these trees are only partially self-fertile so they need to be cross-pollinated to produce satisfactory fruit yields. It’s helpful to grow two different varieties within 50 feet for optimal pollination or you can plant a cocktail tree with multiple varieties on the same tree. To extend the harvest season, choose varieties with different picking times. Most cultivars are cross-compatible for pollination, but it’s wise to confirm before planting. European varieties are also compatible for pollination. Make sure the bloom windows overlap to allow for cross-pollination. Asian pears are also commonly referred to as Nashi or apple pears. The Asian pear is in the Rosaceae family along with apples, cherries, apricots, and plums (just to name a few). Growth and development are similar to apple trees.

How to Repot Norfolk Island Pine Trees

Do your favorite evergreens look like they’re about to destroy their pots? It’s time repot your Norfolk Island pine trees once they get too big for their containers. In this article, horticulture expert Matt Dursum shows you how to repot your trees in time for the holiday season. Norfolk Island pine trees are popular gifts during the holiday season. They grow well in containers and thrive in pleasant indoor spaces with bright indirect light. As easy as they are to maintain, they’ll outgrow their containers every three or four years. After all, these Araucarias can grow to 200 feet tall! However, don’t let their potential size intimidate you. They are slow growers, and with a little maintenance and repotting, you’ll have vibrant indoor trees for years to come. Keep reading below to learn the best ways to repot your Norfolk Island pine tree. Spring is the perfect time to repot your Norfolk Island pines. During this time, they send nutrients and water toward their apical buds. This active growth phase energizes your evergreen houseplants for the new season. With the extra energy, they’ll handle the stress of replanting. After the shock of repotting, they’ll divert their energy to their roots. Your trees will have the rest of spring and summer to grow their roots in the new soil. The longer days bring more sunshine and energy, making it easier for them to grow. If you repot them in fall or winter, your trees won’t have the nutrients and energy they need to handle the move. Also, the shorter days mean they’ll have less sunlight to draw energy from. Although they’ll probably survive repotting during these seasons, it’ll be harder for them to recover. Norfolk Island pines need a well-draining pot that’s at least one or two inches wider and deeper than their previous container. They flourish in earthenware or even 65-gallon grow bags. Earthenware pots work well because they regulate the temperature of your soil. Your Norfolk Island pines thrive in consistently warm temperatures. Besides the materials and size, the most important thing to look for is good drainage. Although they come from wet environments, they don’t like growing in soggy soil. This can lead to root rot and disease. Choosing the right type of soil is important for growing these sub-tropical evergreens in pots. In their native habitat of Norfolk Island, they grow in volcanic clay soils with high acidity. You can mimic this soil environment at home. Start by blending well-draining grit with sand and compost. Add peat moss for the right texture and porousness. Aim for a soil pH of around 4.5 to 5.5. Test your soil with a home test kit now and then to adjust it as needed to maintain a slightly acidic range. You can lower your soil’s pH by using sulfur or ammonia-containing fertilizers. Lowering your soil’s pH can be trickier than raising it, so keep testing until you get it right. When you’re ready to repot them into larger containers, handle them with care. Their roots are delicate and easy to damage. This is especially true when your plants are young. Even though their roots are delicate, young trees are easier to repot than mature ones. Norfolk Island pines may not be true pines—they’re Araucaria, similar to Chilean Monkey Puzzle trees—but they can still be sharp. Wear sturdy gardening gloves to protect your hands from their leaves and spikes around the trunk. Gloves don’t just protect you from your trees’ spikes. They also help prevent the spread of bacteria and fungus on the plants and your skin. Once you repot your evergreens, make sure they’re getting enough light. These trees need a lot of light to flourish and won’t handle too much shade. Without an abundance of sunlight, your trees may experience leggy growth. Move your containers near a south-facing window if you live in the Northern Hemisphere. Turn your containers every few days to make sure each part of your trees gets enough sunlight. They can handle lower light conditions in winter, but in spring and summer, take advantage of the bright long days to encourage vigorous growth. They will bounce back from the shock of repotting and thrive in their new containers. Give your newly replanted Araucarias a daily mist. This helps replicate their native environment and gives them enough moisture to stay hydrated. These towering giants-turned-houseplants thrive in misty environments with 50% humidity. Misting your plants is an easy way to make the surrounding air more humid. It also keeps the branches moist after transplanting. Dry and brittle branches can easily snap off, leaving the plants susceptible to infection. After misting for one or two months, your trees should be good to go on their own. You can always use a humidifier if the air is continuously dry. Overwatering your newly transplanted Norfolk Island pines can lead to a lot of problems. These evergreens have delicate roots that are susceptible to root rot. Water them consistently, but let the upper layer of soil dry out between watering. Allow the containers to drain completely before giving them another soak. If you notice your tree branches turning brown and brittle, you’ve restricted their water too much. Water them a little more until you see their bright green color return. Healthy foliage should be vibrant and soft. Mature Norfolk Island pines growing outdoors don’t need fertilizer. However, when growing your evergreens indoors, a bit of nutrient-dense plant food helps. After repotting in the spring, try using a weak liquid houseplant fertilizer. This will help the roots grow and form a strong root system. When you see new growth appear in spring, feed your plants some more. Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter when new growth slows down. Over-fertilizing can cause problems with your plants and lead to nutrient buildup in the soil. Because these trees love slightly acidic soil, look for a liquid conifer fertilizer or food with extra sulfur or ammonia. Always follow the directions on your fertilizer packet. Sometimes, the stress of repotting can weaken your evergreen houseplants and their root systems. They may start to lean or, at worst, fall over. When this happens, try sticking a stake in the soil to support them. Wooden or metal stakes work the best. Make sure to disinfect the stakes before sticking them in your soil. Pests can hitch a ride on wood and quickly infect your container’s soil. After disinfecting, carefully slide the stake into the soil away from the root system. Once you’ve staked your soil, use string to wrap around the trunk and the stake. As the roots become stronger and more established, you can remove the stake and let your trees stand on their own. Watch your trees after removing them, in case they need more support. Norfolk Island pines generally have few pests to worry about. However, indoor plants can sometimes experience issues related to overwatering and, occasionally, bug infestations. This can especially be true after repotting. Give your trees a thorough check after you repot them. Look for aphids, spider mites, scale, and mealybugs. If you used soil from the outdoors, there’s a chance of Armillaria fungus infecting the plants. The most common problems to look out for are not pests and diseases, but environmental factors. Repotting changes the soil pH and nutrient composition your trees are used to. Browning or yellowing leaves or dropping branches mean your trees are undergoing stress.

Dwarf Alberta Spruce Trees

Small, compact, and pyramidal, dwarf Alberta spruces add formal structure and bright green foliage to the garden. Plant one as a specimen and watch it grow alone, or situate multiple in a row to create a natural fence. Join former nursery tree grower Jerad Bryant in learning how to grow and care for these miniature spruces. Whether you’re looking for a stately tree to stand alone or a small specimen to plug into empty sites, the dwarf Alberta spruce tree is the one for you. It’ll reach up to 13 feet tall in maturity after growing for over 30 years. It’ll stay a short, shrubby tree, hovering between six and eight feet tall most of its life. You can find these trees as short shrubs in one-gallon containers; plant them, and you’ll enjoy watching them mature for decades. Larger trees are available, too, and they are better for specimen plantings or living fences that call for tall plants. No matter which size you choose, you’ll enjoy watching your tree grow into its home. These spruces form wide bases with lower branches, creating picturesque Christmas tree shapes. Decorate them outdoors for holiday cheer, or consider caring for one in a container and moving it indoors for the holidays. Dwarf Alberta spruce is a cultivar of the white spruce, a large coniferous tree native to large swaths of North America. ‘Conica’ is a variety that J.G. Jack and Alfred Rehder discovered growing in Alberta, Canada in 1904. It’s the original dwarf white spruce, and plant breeders often use it to create new, better-performing cultivars for the landscape. White spruce, Picea laxa, is native to North America from parts of Canada through the northern U.S. It grows where summers are cool and winters are cold in mountainous areas. It dislikes intense heat during the summertime, and it needs frigid frosts during the winter to perform well. ‘Conica’ is a variety of Picea laxa. It originates from Alberta, Canada, although it’ll perform well throughout USDA hardiness zones 3 through 6. If you live in zones 7 or 8, try growing this tree with afternoon shade to protect it from harsh summer heat. It’s marginally hardy in these warm zones. Dwarf Alberta spruces are not only smaller than white spruces, but they also have unique foliage that differs from the species! You’ll see star-like clusters of needles open from buds in early spring. Buds and fresh needles are edible, tasting like citrus, pine, and fresh greens. Chop them in salads, or try brewing tea with the needles. Unlike white spruces that tower over 70 feet tall, dwarf spruce trees rarely reach over 13 feet tall, and they take many years to grow this tall. Give them ample space near their base, as their lower branches grow wide in time. Like white spruces, these dwarves live long lives, often growing for over 50 years in gardens and landscapes. Planting these spruces is an easy task. You’ll prepare a hole, loosen the tree’s roots, and plant it in the hole. Transplanting ‘Conica’ is best during spring or fall, when temperatures are mild and moisture is abundant. These trees are forms of the white spruce, meaning they’re not available as seeds. Find them as cuttings or potted plants online or at a local garden nursery.

Star Fruit Trees

Averrhoa carambola, commonly known as star fruit, is a tropical tree or large shrub with exotic fruit in spring. The fruit is rich in vitamins and minerals, and very low in calories.What is star fruit? You’ve come to the right place. The star fruit is a rich source of vitamin C, B9, B6, B2, and dietary fiber. It also contains various minerals, such as potassium, zinc, phosphorus, and iron. It’s a low-calorie fruit, with only 31 calories per 100 grams. And the star fruit tree is beautiful, too! A mature tree can produce as much as 200 to 400 pounds of fruit every year. The star fruit is pulpy with a grape-like texture. The flavor is described as similar to feijoa, but with hints of banana and pear and the acidity of pineapple. It’s also a widely popular ornamental. With beautiful foliage and lovely clusters of lilac-colored flowers, this tree can enhance the aesthetic appeal of your garden. The flowers also attract bees, so they can entice more pollinators to your yard.The star fruit tree goes by the botanical name Averrhoa carambola. However, the tree and the fruit have many common names in different regions. For example, in Spain and the surrounding areas, the tree is known by the name carambola. In Indonesia, it is called bilimbi, although that name also refers to Averrhoa bilimbi, and thus isn’t used to refer to star fruit often.

Should You Prune Evergreens in December?

Evergreens shine in December, holding down a foundation of foliage amongst their dormant, deciduous neighbors. Some require little to no pruning, but others can use some shaping. Join Melissa Strauss to find out if December is a good time to do that pruning. Heading into winter, the garden becomes a quiet place of repose. Gardeners hang up their tools and get cozy indoors for the festive season. As deciduous trees and shrubs drop their leaves and slow their processes, evergreens become the focal point in winter landscapes. Since this is the period when those plants are most prominent, you may notice them more during this time. It’s natural to want to do a bit of shaping now that your evergreens are in full view. This begs the question, is it a good time to pull your pruning shears back out, or is there a better time to trim? Some evergreens don’t require regular pruning, while others prefer a trim from time to time. If we pay attention to growing cycles, these plants grow at much the same time as their deciduous counterparts. So, should you prune evergreens around the winter holidays or look to other times of year for this undertaking? Evergreen trees and shrubs have relatively low maintenance needs. They tend to grow in an attractive, well-balanced form and do so independently of intervention. If you choose to prune these evergreens, there are good times and times that are less than optimal, in addition to times of year when it can be downright detrimental. The most important period to refrain from using pruners on your evergreens is when they have finished growing for the season and winter is on the horizon. This falls from late summer until mid to late fall. In milder climates, where the weather stays warm longer, this time extends along with that warm weather. Pruning during warm or mild weather causes a flush of new wood in most plants. Trimming the ends of branches encourages them to branch and put out new foliage. This new growth is tender and more susceptible to cold. Softwood is much less cold and hardy than wood, which hardens off over the summer. Since most evergreens grow the majority of their wood in the spring, they take the summer months to harden off. This mature wood lasts through the winter without dying back. If you prune too close to the temperature drop, the new wood produced may not survive the winter and could expose the tree to added stress. It’s best to avoid pruning entirely from late summer onward. The exception is for dead or diseased branches. You should remove damaged wood any time it shows up to avoid spreading the damage to other parts of the plant. There are two periods of the year when pruning is unlikely to result in damage. Though these are not ideal, you won’t end up with a tree covered in dead branch tips that you’ll need to cut back harder after the winter. If you prune evergreens at the end of spring, you miss the ideal period, but it won’t do any damage. You may not see optimal spring growth, but your evergreen still has time to harden up any new wood before winter, and it should survive. In midsummer, when the weather is hottest, most evergreens enter a semi-dormancy, which helps them withstand the intense heat. You can prune during this time, but pay attention to the date. Once you get to late summer, this window closes, and you should hold off for the remainder of the year. This brings us to the month in question, December. December is an in-between month that most consider to be winter, but most of the month is still technically late fall. It’s only after the solstice that we enter into true winter. Depending on your climate, this can be an acceptable time to prune, but it’s still not ideal. In warm climates, like where I live in Zone 9, December is a funny month. It can be warm and balmy, but it can also bring on some cold temperatures. A few years ago, we had an unseasonably cold Christmas week and winter in general. In this case, it would be fine to prune, as the tree would remain dormant. However, if you have a warm December, pruning during this month can cause new wood to grow, followed quickly by the coldest months. This makes it risky as the plant can begin to produce new growth in a short time. Then, when that cold weather does show up, your tree is in for a difficult time. I would say that in December, you should hold off on pruning unless you live in a cold climate. If the tree or shrub remains dormant after trimming, it should be fine. If not, you run into the same issue as happens with fall pruning. The ideal time to prune and shape up most evergreens is in late winter or very early spring. Right before the plant re-enters, its growth season is best. Since pruning encourages growth, trimming just before it begins a growth phase will maximize that new growth. Pruning just before your evergreens begin to grow will leave you with optimal growth. It will create fullness and make your plant look lush and happy. Most of these plants put out only one flush of growth per year in the spring. By pruning just before that period, your plant gets the signal to grow, and it will do precisely that. Most of these shrubs and trees require only minimal shaping, as they grow in a nice form naturally. Let’s discuss the proper way to prune most evergreens in the spring. Different types of plants have different growth habits, and thus, they require a different approach to trimming. Pine, fir, spruce, and hemlock need the least amount of cutting as they naturally grow in an attractive, conical, or pyramidal shape. Avoid cutting their lower branches, as this ruins that pretty shape. Never cut the main leader, as this also destroys the shape of the tree. Clean up any dead or broken branches and those with the appearance of disease or pest damage. Cut away any crossing branches that interfere with airflow to the interior. These are those that cross through the center of the tree from one side to the other. You should also remove branches that cross over their neighbors and wear on others. Select the strongest limb and remove the others that cross over or beneath it. When removing an entire branch, make sure to cut it all the way to the trunk. Using a hand saw can help protect the bark around your cuts. Pine – Allow your pines to form candles. These are small branches that grow upward from the ends of branches. Typically, there is one candle that’s stronger and larger than the others. Trim or snap off all but that strongest candle at about one-third of its length. Spruce and Fir – These produce new growth once per year from terminal buds. Tip the branches back to one of these buds, cutting just to the outside of the bud. Don’t leave stubby growth at the ends of branches. This will produce unattractive branching. Juniper and False Cypress – These don’t need more pruning outside of cleaning them up. Trim off old, damaged, or broken limbs and any that cross over others or through the center. Cutting the ends off of branches on these will reduce the foliage and leave you looking into the center of the plant. Hemlock, Arborvitae, and Yew – These tolerate more pruning, and doing so will keep them more compact and bushy. They grow in spring and summer, so you can trim them any time from early spring to mid-summer. The branches will produce new growth at the ends, which cover over the trimmed ends. While December is not the worst month to prune your evergreens, it’s not the best, either. You’re better off waiting until late winter, just before the new growth phase begins. This will protect the plant from cold and set it on the right path to maximum healthy growth through the following season.

A Guide to Choosing the Best Tree For Your Yard: Factors to Consider

If you’re selecting new trees for your yard this fall, lucky you! You’re adding value and enrichment to the landscape visually, ecologically, and economically. With so many variables in tree form, growing conditions, and features, a few guidelines help winnow down the field. Hone in on the best trees for your yard with gardening expert Katherine Rowe. Trees form the “bones” of the garden. They’re the first considerations to work with when creating a landscape design – starting with the largest, whether new or existing, and working our way down to detailed plantings. Trees impact the arrangement the most in size, light affectations, and framework. As the largest plants in a collection, they carry the most visual weight in addition to their hefty canopies and root systems. Trees offer big rewards ecologically, ornamentally, and even economically. Choosing these landscape anchors is a long-term commitment. With so many variations in form and features, we’ve got a few ways to narrow down the best tree options for your yard. The main factor in selecting trees is ensuring enough room for their mature growth. Planning for maturity means accounting for limb expanse, height, and root systems. It sounds obvious, but we sometimes overlook or underestimate their full size to meet short-term aesthetics. Ideally, our trees will live a long time and reach their maximum height and spread. We don’t want to squeeze them into a spot now only to remove them down the road. The right situation to accommodate tree size makes all the difference regarding future maintenance. Will limbs encroach on the house, roof, or other structures like power lines? Is there enough room for root development without compromising the foundation, walkways, or tree health? Using size as a parameter helps guide our choices toward tall, mid, or small specimens. While trees benefit from pruning as they age, they won’t need it to regularly manage size with the right tree in the right spot. Trees, whether large or small in stature, have a bearing on the balance of the landscape. As the most sizeable and lasting landscape contributors, they also yield the most structure and visual heft. Among the tallest features of the planting arrangement, their size and form draw the eye. Their visual weight plays into scale and proportion: how we experience a place, its readability, and overall pleasing aesthetic. It’s the essence of curb appeal, where the home blends seamlessly into the landscape through a connected built and natural environment. Proportion is how all of the elements of a space relate to each other in size. Plant material and garden structures should be considered relative to the size of the house and the area to plant. A proportionate garden feels harmonious and balanced. If you’re working with a large site, consider adding bigger trees to punctuate the space with vertical interest. Think of an alle, a bosque, a small grouping, or a single large tree to dominate the space. Intimate spaces allow us to relish the details, where small specimen trees become focal points (taking care not to overcrowd the area). The scale of your house and yard will determine whether to go with a single tree, a grouping of understory trees like dogwoods, or rows to line your drive. Your selection goes back to the home’s guiding proportions. Opt for small to mid-sized, multi-trunk specimens like Japanese maple, sweet bay magnolia, or serviceberry to anchor foundation plantings for scaled variation near the house. Give plenty of space between the home and the tree (six feet or so, depending on the variety). To choose the best trees for your yard, consider their roles. Maybe you’re looking for shade, fall color, flowers, a focal point, or all of the above. Deciduous trees offer leafy canopies that provide cooling shade in summer. They help reduce air conditioning usage (and costs) in summer. In winter, they allow the warming sun to shine through bare branches and warm the home or patio. Evergreens provide year-round privacy, screening, and windbreaks. Fruit and nut producers enhance the edible landscape and provide forage for birds and wildlife. Flowering and fragrant selections bring color and heighten seasonal interest. Shade trees and evergreens have dramatically different forms, both equally valuable. Trees become architecture in the landscape, from vase-shaped to multitrunked to pyramidal. If you’d like to screen a view or block an unsightly feature, a dense evergreen may be the choice. Sturdy evergreens also help block winds throughout the year, whether as singular large specimens or a series of conifers. Shade trees offer broad coverage to shade a patio, frame the front of the house, or cool the streetscape. Multiseason interest is a fun one to plan for as you install new selections. We know trees shine in spring and summer, and choosing for fall and winter characteristics adds lasting interest. Deciduous species delight with leaf shapes and colors that transition to autumnal tones. Their bare trunks, branches, buds, and seeds add winter interest. Shapely conifers do the heavy lifting in cold weather with structural branching, dynamic foliage, cones, and berries. Factoring in a species’ natural attributes helps gauge placement and maintenance, too. Nut producers like hickories, buckeyes, and walnuts are best away from active zones like play areas, walkways, and driveways to avoid those heavy massing (and dropping) seasons. Fruit-bearers are beautiful and functional additions. If you live in a wildlife-prone area, they may require an early harvest to avoid overripe attractants (or leave enough to share). Some fruits, like pears and apples, benefit from regular pruning for best shape and vigor. Deciduous species drop their leaves in autumn’s cool temperatures, leading to an excellent source of soil nutrition through leaf mulch and mold. Removing thick layers from turf and putting them to good use in garden beds is a beneficial fall task. While trees produce shade, their scale also affects the way light moves through a site. This benefit of casting a shadow alters the light beneath them and the amount of light nearby plants receive. Observe how light moves through your yard and take this into account when planning future beds. Existing plants may adapt to partial shade or may need transplanting as a new tree grows and creates shadier conditions. Matching the tree to the site is essential in setting up a healthy foundation. Make sure the selection is hardy in your USDA growing zone. Take lighting observations into account to know whether the site is full sun or partially shaded by structures or other trees, and match the tree to the exposure. New trees need water as they establish. Once they have a robust root system, they’re usually self-sufficient. There are water lovers (like willow, cypress, or tupelo) for moist zones, and many drought-tolerant species (mesquite, cedar, juniper) well-suited to areas without supplemental irrigation. Like all plants, the leafy growers have different soil preferences, many thriving in organically rich, humusy loams while others prefer sand and even tolerate clay. Knowing your soil type with a soil test helps determine any amendment needs. Fall is ideal for amending soils before the spring growing season. Native species are well-adapted to their local growing environment, including soil types and climate. They flourish in localized average conditions without a lot of extra resources (water, fertilizer). They grow in partnership with surrounding plant communities and provide wildlife and pollinator resources.

Star Fruit Trees

Pawpaw Trees

Are you curious about these small native trees and their sweet, custardy fruits? If you’ve never seen or tasted a pawpaw, you’re in for a treat. In this article, native plant expert Liessa Bowen introduces the pawpaw tree and all the basics you’ll need to know so you can grow your own! I have to admit, I’ve been a huge fan of pawpaw trees since I was a little kid. It may have started with a song about “Little Suzie” who went “Way down yonder in the pawpaw patch” to pick a bunch of pawpaws and put them in her pocket. I always imagined she had really big pockets that were loaded down with wild fruits. When I saw my first pawpaw tree growing in the wild, I’m sure I went wild with glee to finally taste these delicious fruits for myself. Pawpaws (Asimina triloba) are native to the central and eastern United States and provide great value to the home landscape. In their native habitat, you’ll see them in moist woodlands and woodland edges. As a landscaping plant, they are a welcome addition to an edible landscape, wildlife-friendly habitat, or native garden. Growing a pawpaw tree successfully starts with a favorable habitat with moist soil and a bit of sunlight. These trees may require a bit of pampering to get them securely settled in a new home. Once established, however, you’ll find pawpaw trees to be hardy and easy to grow. As a small tree, pawpaws are versatile. These low-maintenance trees provide edible fruits, ornamental foliage, unusual flowers, and plenty of year-round interest. You won’t get fruits with a single tree, so if you’re considering growing pawpaws for their fruits, you’ll need to plant at least two. Now let’s dig in to some details and you’ll soon be ready to plant and grow your own grove of pawpaw trees. Pawpaw trees are native to North America. Their range includes southeastern Canada, south to Florida, and west to Texas. These trees typically grow in moist, deciduous forests, along streams, and near wetlands where they get plenty of regular soil moisture and also plenty of shade. As long as there have been people in the Americas, people have been eating pawpaws. These trees produce an abundance of sweet fruits that are edible raw, making them easily accessible to anyone to simply harvest and eat. As plant growers became interested in these native fruits, they started breeding them to form a number of cultivars, some of which are available commercially. The common pawpaw is a deciduous, fruit-bearing tree that grows 15 – 30 feet tall. These trees develop a single main trunk with smooth, gray bark. They are sparsely branched and develop a pyramidal form with lower branches tending to be longer and more pendulous than upper branches. Pawpaw leaves are uniformly bright green with smooth edges. They are oblong and narrower at the base closest to the stem and broadest at the pointed tip. The leaves hang gently downwards for a slightly floppy appearance. In the fall, these leaves turn attractive shades of yellow and orange before dropping for the winter. They bloom in the spring. Their flowers are a bit unusual. Each flower measures one to three inches across and has six distinct yet overlapping brownish-maroon petals. The three outer petals are larger and form an overall triangular shape with the three smaller petals forming a central, smaller triangular shape. Each flower has both male and female parts but they are not self-fertile. You’ll need at least two different pawpaw trees for cross-pollination and fruit production. The fruits ripen in mid to late summer in the south and late summer to early fall in more northern climates. Pawpaw fruits can be up to six inches long and look somewhat like an oblong pear. Their smooth skins ripen from green to yellowish-green, sometimes with harmless brown spots appearing on ripe fruits. The skin is soft and easily bruised. Ripe fruits have a tender yellowish inner flesh. They have a sweet flavor often described as a cross between a banana and a mango. The texture is smooth and custardy rather than crispy or crunchy. Each mango fruit typically contains several large, smooth, flat, black seeds. The pulpy part of the fruit is fully edible when ripe. The skin and seeds are not edible. These trees don’t produce fruits right away. They generally need to be around seven years old before they start to flower and form fruits, although the age of first fruiting will vary depending on the general health of the tree and its growing conditions. Pawpaws are not self-fertile and a single tree will bloom but not bear fruits. You’ll need at least two separate trees to produce fruits. Since natural pawpaw pollinators are not particularly dependable, you can help your plants along by doing some hand pollination. When both trees are blooming in the spring, simply use a soft paintbrush to gather pollen from one tree and share it with the flowers of the other tree, and vice versa. Fruits start to form immediately after flowering. In the beginning, they are small, oblong, firm, and green. The fruits ripen anywhere from August to October, depending on local climate conditions. Once they start to ripen, all the fruits on the tree will be fully ripe within a short two-week period. Harvest them when they become slightly soft and yellow. Ripe fruits will release easily from their stems. Pawpaw fruits are best eaten fresh. They will last for a few days at room temperature or for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator. The soft inner flesh is edible. The large black seeds and skin are not edible. Many people like to cut a pawpaw in half and use a spoon to scoop out the flesh, separating it from the skin. Pawpaws naturally reproduce by seed and by developing colonies from root suckers. New plants that develop from root suckers are genetically identical to the parent plant while plants grown from seed will be genetically unique individuals and therefore able to cross-pollinate and produce. You can sow fresh pawpaw seeds in moist soil in your yard and hope they germinate the following spring, or you can try sprouting the seeds in pots and have a bit more control over their environment. Want to try growing your own pawpaw tree from seed? The process is simple but requires patience. Pawpaw seeds need cold, moist stratification for 70-100 days, followed by a long germination period. Harvest fresh seeds from a mature pawpaw fruit and wash them off to remove the skin-like membrane surrounding each seed. Place the freshly washed seeds on a moist paper towel, wrap them up in the moist towel, and place the moistened seed packet in a plastic bag. Cold stratify this packet in the refrigerator until February or March. Don’t let the seeds dry out after harvesting or they quickly lose viability. After this period of cold stratification, place the seeds in individual pots filled with moist potting soil. The pots should be tall enough to accommodate a long taproot and they should have good drainage. Seeds should be planted one inch deep and kept moist at around 60-70°F (16-21°C). Keep the seeds warm and moist until they germinate, which could be anywhere from three weeks to three months. Don’t give up if they don’t germinate right away, they are very slow to get started. Even after germination, you’ll need to continue being patient. Trees started from seed won’t begin to bear fruit until they are seven or eight years old.

5 Reasons You Should Never Prune Your Trees in Fall

I bet you’re working on your fall to-do list, and I’m right there with you. But pruning your trees is something you should leave off that list until late winter. Join organic farmer Jenna Rich as she discusses five reasons you should never prune your trees in the fall. Fall is a time for gardeners to clean up their garden beds, sharpen and clean tools, organize sheds and greenhouses, and tidy up so they’re ready for spring chores. It might seem like a great time to prune your trees to get that off your to-do list, but doing so may undo much of the hard work you’ve done leading up to the fall to ensure your trees stay healthy and strong. When adding trees to your lineup, ensure they are compatible with your growing zone. Doing so will set them up for success and make caring for them more enjoyable. A tree out of its element and experiencing high stress levels won’t thrive, so checking that your region aligns with its needs will yield the best results. If you’re like me, your fall and winter checklists are in full effect. When all the items are checked off, I have peace of mind, which allows me to enjoy my winters and feel prepared for spring. Let’s discuss five reasons you should never prune your trees in the fall. Your Tree is Busy Preparing For Winter Humans greatly enjoy watching the transition of summer greens to autumnal oranges, yellows, and reds, so it’s hard for us to understand just how hard the trees are working internally. It’s a significant endeavor that takes lots of energy. Think of everything you do around your home and property as the seasons change to refresh, prepare, and unload for the upcoming season. Trees and perennial plants are doing something similar internally in preparation for the change of seasons. Imagine someone asking you to give a speech just as you fall asleep for the night. It probably wouldn’t be great, right? As their colors change and leaves drop, the trees’ energy shifts into their own fall chores, including sugar concentration, intentional dehydration, and cellular shrinkage. As they adjust to shorter days, colder temperatures, and less water, they slow their processes down to prepare for dormancy. Concentrated sugars serve as a natural anti-freeze, which helps them tolerate freezing temperatures, reduces the risk of them exploding from being too cold, and provides energy in the winter months. Cells shrink and harden, preventing damage from freezing temperatures and harsh winds. Surviving the winter in some regions is an impressive feat, so it takes a lot of preparation. Note that some species produce buds in the summer months that will overwinter just fine. Pruning too early may remove these, giving you a less-than-spectacular show in the spring. They Need To Focus Energy on Their Roots We often discuss the need for a robust root system, which anchors plants to the ground, helps prevent topsoil and nutrient loss, and ensures proper growth and immunity response. When we prune during the fall transition period, we force energy into the wounded areas rather than allowing the tree to focus on its root system. This can be detrimental to the tree’s health and longevity. Instead, take advantage of the cooler working temperatures. Soil temps will remain warm, encouraging roots to expand and stretch deeper into the soil, well out of eyes’ reach. Once trees lose their leaves, they can hone in on underground activity. When they wake in the spring, deep, strong roots mean a healthy start to the season! Damage From Fresh Wounds Imagine having a large, fresh cut on your arm and heading outside into the wind and cold weather without any covering. You can imagine the pain you might feel when the air hits the open wound. Trees may not “feel” the same way we do, but wounds, even from necessary pruning, are still wounds and should be treated as such. Remember also that several types of beetles are still active in the fall, and wounds may exacerbate their damage. The best time to prune is during dormancy when less activity is happening inside the tree, and the risk of disease spread is significantly reduced. Winter pruning encourages new spring growth. Wounds made over winter will heal more quickly during the spring months. Note: Spring flowering plants like azaleas should not be pruned until after they flower. Pruning in the winter removes fresh buds, so you’ll be without spring blooms. While it was once commonplace to see tree wounds closed up with white paint, updated research tells us to leave them be and let them complete their natural immunity response for best results. According to the University of Illinois Extension, trees will respond to a wound with wound tissue, which will seal the pruning cut. Sealing it up with paint is detrimental since oxygen is required for this process to occur. Healthy specimens are more likely to ward off future attacks, so it’s our job to keep them as healthy as possible. Wet Conditions Promote Disease Spread Many fungal and bacterial pathogens thrive in fall’s wet, cool conditions. In many regions, fall brings cool, damp weather, wreaking havoc on freshly pruned trees and shrubs. These pathogens can easily creep into the open wounds when humidity levels are high. Oak wilt, Nectria canker, Dutch elm disease, bacterial canker, fire blight, apple scab, peach scab, and blossom wilt are just a few diseases to watch out for in the fall. Proper pruning, copper sprays, and immediate removal of infected tree parts work to control some of these, but oak wilt and bacterial canker have no known proven home gardener treatments. Trust your sources when bringing new trees to your property. Select disease-resistant varieties and grafts when available. Contact your local experts if you’re unsure what’s happening with your orchard. Swift action is always best! Keep your eyes peeled for elm leaf beetles (Xanthogaleruca luteola). These pests chew holes in leaves and may hibernate in the surrounding areas, ready to cause more trouble in future years. Unfortunately, this pest has few natural enemies, so prevention or chemical control are the only options. You Don’t Want To Encourage New Growth Before Winter New growth is green and vulnerable. Promoting new growth before winter exposes it to extreme conditions it’s not ready for. As mentioned, fall offers the perfect conditions for plants to focus on their root system. Leaving them be for a few months allows them to do naturally what they know to do. Let the tree close up shop for the year (and you do the same) and encourage new spring growth during winter pruning sessions. Waiting until the trees are bare of leaves allows you to see the shape more clearly and create an efficient pruning plan. You can see overlapping and twisted branches, growth outside the desired canopy shape, and dead or diseased limbs. Exceptions To The Rule Light pruning may be recommended if your tree shows signs of disease or has lower branches near or touching the ground. Contact a local arborist or tree specialist at your local extension office for necessary assistance. A Note About Conifers Spruce and pines retain their needles all year and don’t enter full dormancy like deciduous species. Pine needles retain more moisture and allow them to convert sunlight into chlorophyll all year, which is why they are sometimes called evergreens. While they don’t entirely go dormant, their bark and branches offer insulation and protection from the cold, so they should be pruned in spring like deciduous trees for best results. What To Do In The Fall Instead Clean up garden debris Determine your mulching plan Amend your soil so it’s ready for spring Cover crop to suppress weeds and reduce soil erosion Be patient until your trees are in dormancy to perform pruning Are you stuck on which trees to choose? Consider low-maintenance trees like winterberry holly, witch hazel, and serviceberry, which will still provide shade, beauty, pollinator attraction, and height.

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