trees

How to Stake A Tree in 5 Easy Steps

Windy weather and harsh rains threaten weak trees! Their young, thin trunks bend under the pressure. Some saplings need the pressure to grow strong, while others require staking to reach tall and wide. Learn when and how to stake your trees alongside seasoned landscaper Jerad Bryant. Not all trees need staking, but some do. Stakes allow young saplings to grow strong and thick if they struggle to stand straight. Most trees are fine, as they correct bends in their trunk when they mature and grow thicker. Others aren’t as lucky and require some extra help before they mature. You’ll want to stake these three types of woody plants: young saplings, new transplants, and weak trees. They benefit from some stabilization early in life. After a season or two of staking, their trunks will be thick and sturdy enough to handle wind, ice, and excessive rain. These staking steps guide you through the process whether you have a new transplant or an established specimen. Sideways saplings will be towering, straight trees after a season or two of support. Follow along to get your species looking tall, sturdy, and vigorous! Does Your Tree Need Staking? Not all trees need staking! They develop stronger trunks if they don’t receive support when young. The natural sway and shifting that occurs in windy conditions causes the plant to release chemicals called cytokinins. These chemicals cause the trunk’s cells to expand and grow thicker, creating strong and woody plant tissues. Staking won’t hurt your specimen, though, as most trees recover after a few seasons of rapid growth. Stake yours if it is growing in an intensely windy location, if the trunk is too weak to stand without support, or if the topmost branches are larger than the bottom half of the tree. Young Sapling Perhaps you grew a cherry tree from a seed, or there’s a young specimen in your yard from last year’s planting. Young saplings generally don’t require staking, unless they’re weak or have a lopsided structure. Bendy trees are okay, so long as they straighten after the wind subsides. If your saplings bend and stay bent, they’ll need stakes for extra support until they can handle their weight. Tying them to stakes while they’re young allows them to grow straight before they start thickening their trunks. New Transplant The best time to stake a tree is when you transplant it—you’ll already be digging a hole where you can drill in the supporting poles. Some transplants won’t need staking, while others will. If your transplant bends over in the wind or has a small root ball that pulls out of the hole, you’ll want to tie down your tree. The process for staking new transplants differs from staking ones with roots in the ground. Fear not, as we’ll cover what to do in both situations. Weak Tree Older specimens sometimes need support if their tops grow heavier than their trunks can manage. Help them grow straight, and they’ll stay robust without aid for decades to come. Trees that recently lost some of their roots from digging or animal activity are also good candidates for stakes while they recover. The rule of thumb is this: if the tree bends but rights itself without help, it doesn’t need staking. It needs stakes if it falls over, grows sideways, or leans excessively. Step 1: Bury Two Sturdy Stakes The first step involves planting stakes in the ground that act as sturdy anchoring bases. They create two more reinforcing structures for the sapling so that it stays straight despite stormy conditions. How you bury the stakes depends on what type of tree you have. When transplanting woody shrubs or trees that require reinforcement, you’ll want to bury the stakes into opposite ends of the hole near the root ball. Drill two wooden or metal stakes so that they oppose each other with the tree in the middle. Arrange them so that the strongest winds flow through the space between them. Existing trees are much easier to help. Simply bury or drill two stakes on opposite ends of the tree. Like with new transplants, arrange them so that the strongest winds flow through the space between them. Use stakes the right size for your trees—they should be a little taller than where the topmost shoots branch off the main trunk. Step 2: Determine The Support Point The support point is where the ties attach to the tree. It’s where tying cables to your plant will best help it stay straight. Find it with this simple trick: Start three feet above the ground, putting two fingers behind the trunk to raise it. Keep raising your fingers higher until they fully support the tree. Mark the spot on the trunk. The support point is six inches above this mark. This point is generally low on young saplings and taller for existing specimens. It’s crucial to tie cables to the support point and not lower or higher on the trunk. A high placement leads to wood snapping, and a low placement doesn’t keep the canopy upright. Follow this trick to find where to tie cables, no matter how old or young the plant is. Step 3: Tie Tree To Stakes What type of ties you use greatly impacts how well they work. Wires or soft-coated wires never work, as they eventually girdle trunks after digging into their wood. Use fabric, canvas, or rubber collars that are sturdy but giving. With some flexibility, your specimen can wave in the wind while benefitting from additional structure. Easily tie up your tree once you have stakes in the soil. Attach one end of the tie to the metal or wooden stake and the other to the tree’s support point. Stagger the second tie below or above this one on the trunk, and tie its other end to the second stake. You’ll want the ties to be tight with some leeway. Create enough slack on each tie for the trunk to move two inches in any direction. This extra room is crucial for strong trunk development—it partially triggers the release of cytokinins that thicken and reinforce the wood. Step 4: Remove Stakes and Ties Six months to a year later it’ll be time to remove those stakes! The supports are temporary aids that boost the tree to grow well on its own. Leave them too long and they’ll start to hinder growth rather than support it. So, how do you know when to remove them? Trees are ready to live without stakes when they survive wind, rain, or snow without gaining a permanent bend. If you remove the ties and notice your tree still leans, refasten them and check on the sapling in a month or two. Stakes are ready to remove when the tree doesn’t bend or lean on its own and the roots seem to have a strong base. Push the tree a bit to see how it reacts, and make your best judgment call based on how it moves. After six months the support point may have shifted—you can use the test with two fingers to redetermine where it is. Step 5: Repeat for Weak Trees Sometimes, woody species struggle to establish themselves in harsh conditions. Or, extreme storms damage them so they need fastening again. Whatever the reason is for a weak tree, there’s no harm in refastening stakes and ties to help it another time. Repeat this staking process as often as necessary until the saplings grow up and out without help. Some species sprout weak, quick-growing wood, while others are hardier but slower-growing. Adjust your staking period to match the trees’ needs and they’ll thank you with sturdy growth! Follow up with yearly additions of compost on top of the soil, and prune dead or diseased wood. Your trees will grow happy, healthy, and sturdy as they structure themselves in their best shapes. You’ll marvel at the old specimens and remember how they were once weak, young saplings that needed your help.

Trees that Feed Wildlife in the Fall and Winter

When winter rolls around and leaves are long gone from the trees, many wildlife have difficulty finding enough food. Fortunately, many trees continue to feed birds and mammals throughout the winter. In this article, gardener Briana Yablonski shares multiple types of trees you can plant to support wildlife. American Persimmon Often found in mixed hardwood plantings, neighborhoods, and parks, the American persimmon is the native cousin of the frequently cultivated Asian persimmon. The fruits of the American species are much smaller than those produced by the Asian cultivars, but they have a similar flavor and texture. When the fruits are unripe, they have an unpleasant, astringent flavor. When they ripen, they drop from the tree and cover the ground with a layer of sugary goo. Critters of all kinds enjoy the sweet flesh in the late fall and winter. They can grow up to eighty feet, but they have a slow growth rate. You can identify the persimmons by their blocky gray bark. American Crabapple While crabapples are often the last choice when humans are choosing apples to eat, turkeys, raccoons, deer, and other critters love munching on the small, tart fruits. The apples mature in the fall, but ripe fruits often remain on the ground throughout the winter. The crabapple tree’s small size makes it an excellent choice for yards and areas with limited space. Since they grow in an attractive upright form and have beautiful springtime flowers, they fit in well with residential landscaping while also benefiting wildlife. However, you should be aware the fruits often fall from them and can make a mess if left uneaten. White Oak As ecologist and entomologist Doug Tallamy points out, oaks are crucial for supporting insects and, therefore, birds. That’s because they serve as host plants for more than 500 species of moths and butterflies during the growing season. White oaks continue to feed wildlife in the fall thanks to their calorie-rich acorns. Around 150 species of animals consume the nuts, including raccoons, nuthatches, deer, bluejays, and foxes. These critters will eat many types of acorns, but nuts from white oaks tend to be some of their favorites. Since this species is native to much of the eastern US, it’s a great choice in this region. They can grow well in various habitats as long as the soil is well-draining. Just be aware that they are slow-growing, like most oaks. Fireberry Hawthorn This hawthorn species grows in much of North America, including the Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and Rocky Mountain West. The plants grow as large shrubs or small trees in open clearings, forest edges, and other environments. These are members of the rose family and produce small fruits known as haws. The haws of fireberry hawthorn are bright red when ripe and appear in clusters. The fruit typically ripens in the beginning to middle of fall and feeds wildlife including birds and small mammals. Pin Oak If you want to enjoy the benefits of oaks but want a smaller plant than a white or red oak, the pin oak is one good option. These still produce an upright shape, but they typically max out at around 70 feet tall. The plants have a unique branching pattern that many people find beautiful. They grow best in moist yet well-draining soil but can adapt to dry locations. Pin oaks are popular choices for landscape plantings due to their tolerance of transplanting and relatively quick growth rate. The trees grow about two feet per year, making them one of the fastest-growing oak species. Plus, they’re native to much of the eastern United States. Along with supporting many species of caterpillars, pin oaks also produce acorns that birds and mammals love. Animals often stockpile the nuts and continue to feed on them throughout the winter. Just be aware that pin oaks won’t produce acorns until they’re at least 15 years old. River Birch Many gardeners know the river birch for its beautiful peeling bark and slender branches covered with green leaves. It’s known as the only birch species that grows well in low-lying elevations in southern states. However, I’ve found that fewer plant lovers are aware of the tree’s ability to provide for wildlife. They provide year-round cover for wildlife, especially birds that frequent the lakes and rivers these trees often grow beside. The small seeds that appear on the tree’s female catkins also provide food for birds including grouse, sparrows, and chickadees. Songbirds and small mammals often eat the seedless male catkins in the winter. If you want to plant a river birch, note that they prefer moist soil. Although they can tolerate some heat, they typically don’t fare well in hot, dry conditions. However, the cultivar ‘Dura Heat’ was bred to better resist heat and drought. American Holly Although you may think of holly as a small to medium shrub, American holly plants can grow into large specimens. The plants have smooth, gray bark and thick, evergreen leaves with spiked tips. The trees produce red berries in the fall. Since the berries don’t fall from them once they’re ripe, they remain on the plants into the winter. Birds including cedar waxwings, American robins, and quail eat the berries. However, humans should avoid consuming the toxic fruits. American holly can grow in pretty much any type of light, but they often remain smaller when grown in full shade. Trees that receive more light will also produce more berries. The plants are native to much of the eastern central United States, so they’re natural choices for these areas. Black Cherry There are many different types of cherry trees native to the United States, and all of them provide small fruits that appeal to wildlife, ranging from songbirds to bears. The black cherry is native to much of the eastern half of the United States as well as portions of the southwest. It’s the largest native cherry, so it produces more fruit than smaller cherry species. In the spring, they produce elongated clusters of small white flowers. The flowers give way to small red fruits that turn black by late summer or early fall. They often remain around throughout the fall. Not only do black cherry trees provide fruits in the colder months, but their foliage also supports hundreds of insects that feed birds. Mammals also browse on tender twigs and stems. Scarlet Hawthorn If you want a smaller tree that produces fruits in the fall, scarlet hawthorn is one good option. They only grow up to 25 feet tall and work well in small yards and residential areas. However, be aware that the stems sport long thorns, and the springtime flowers have an unpleasant fragrance. Scarlet hawthorn is native to much of the eastern US, where it grows in numerous types of well-draining soil. They produce small fruits that ripen to deep red in the early fall. The fruits remain on the trees into the early winter and are consumed by birds. Eastern Red Cedar When you think of cedar trees, their scale-like evergreen foliage probably comes to mind. However, the plants also produce small blue structures known as juniper berries. These aren’t true berries but rather female cones. Both birds and mammals feed on the cones throughout the fall and winter. Eastern red cedar grow best in full sun, so it’s best to plant them in an open area rather than near other trees. They can tolerate a variety of soil types but don’t grow well in constantly moist soil. Smooth Sumac Although some people consider it a weedy tree, smooth sumac plays an important role in the ecosystem. It thrives in disturbed areas and poor soils where other trees and shrubs struggle, making it an important part of erosion control. Since the trees grow from suckers, they can form large colonies and survive drought, fire, and other environmental challenges. Smooth sumac grows as a small tree or large shrub with compound leaves containing large, slender leaflets. In the fall, the leaves turn bright crimson. Flower clusters appear on the tops of the trees in the summer and turn to conical clusters of red rupes in the fall. The fruit clusters remain on the plants throughout the fall and into the winter. Grouse, squirrels, chickadees, rabbis, quail, nuthatches, and other critters eat the fruits.

Jackfruit

Thinking of planting some jackfruit trees in your backyard, or somewhere in your home garden, but aren't sure where to start? Jackfruit can be a unique tree to grow, but they do best in certain hardiness zones, and perform well with certain soil types. Find out how to plant, grow, and care for Jackfruit in your backyard or home garden.Ever wonder what that giant melon-sized oblong fruit is when you pass by a local Asian produce section? That’s jackfruit. This spiny behemoth fruit is native to tropical parts of Southeast Asia. It’s susceptible to frost, can’t survive in drought, and only grows in humid tropical areas. Jackfruit is one of the most well-known fruit trees globally because it bears the most prominent and heaviest edible fruit that can weigh up to 50 kg. Aside from food, businesses can use the leaves, trunk, roots, and fruits commercially. Growing jackfruit is not tricky, but you need fresh seeds to get started. If you have ample space in your yard, you can grow this fruit crop quickly and reap its many benefits. Here’s everything you need to know about planting, growing, and caring for a jackfruit tree.Jackfruit also has outstanding nutritional value, and it doesn’t have any cholesterol or saturated fat. Jackfruit has more than enough fiber, potassium, and low calorie and sodium count for a healthy diet. Additionally, the fruit has vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A and C, copper, and magnesium. The fruit has been propagated traditionally from seeds. There are many variations in its shape, size, fruiting season, and quality.Many cultivars and species of jackfruit are available across Asia, Africa, United States, and the Pacific. Since jackfruit is relatively new to the United States market, the optimal cultivars are still unknown for this region. In general, this fruit is available in two types: NangkaBelulang (firm) or NangkaBubur (soft), and it has several varieties, including: Black Gold – This cultivar is vigorous, having a dense canopy. It produces medium-sized fruits, weighing 6.7 kg on average. Golden Nugget – This variety is fast-growing, having unique dark green leaves and a dense canopy. It produces small-sized and rounded fruits that weigh around 3.2 kg on average. Golden Pillow – Its high quality and distinctive beauty characterize this variety. This small tree is highly manageable, and it produces small-sized fruits weighing 3.6-5.5 kg on average. Cochin – This variety is relatively tiny, forming an upright and sparse canopy. It produces small-sized fruits that are smoother than the other varieties. Dang Rasimi – This cultivar is open and fast-growing, and it needs annual pruning to maintain its height and spread. This tree is highly productive, bearing uniformly shaped fruits that come in varying colors from pale yellow to bright green. The Dang Rasimi needs more maintenance than other varieties of jackfruit. NS1 – This medium-sized tree has a dense and upright canopy. It produces dark green blocky fruits weighing around 4.2 kg. This cultivar also requires moderate yearly pruning. In the United States, the recommended varieties include the Golden Nugget, Black Gold, Dang Rasimi, and NS1. Developers came up with most of these cultivars in Malaysia or Australia. Generally, the outer skin of the jackfruit is composed of conical and hexagonal apices that turn from greenish to brownish-yellow when it matures. The pulp color also ranges from amber to orange to dark yellow. Each fruit contains 100 to 500 seeds with varying sizes from ¾ to 1.5 inches in diameter. You can cook and eat the seeds. Jackfruit seeds taste a little bit like chestnuts. When the tree or fruit is damaged, it produces a sticky, rubbery white latex, which you can use as paste or glue in various applications.

Which Trees Have The Best Fall Leaves?

If you’ve noticed gorgeous fall foliage lately and want to bring some to your landscape, we have just the thing. Here are 15 trees with the most spectacular fall foliage around. Join gardening expert Melissa Strauss in learning more about these trees that flaunt such vivid autumn leaves! The autumn landscape can be a most breathtaking scene to behold. Trees change their leaves to shades of crimson, mahogany, bronze, and gold, rolling over hillsides and lighting up the sky. Paired with the cooling temperatures and holiday anticipation, it’s truly an enchanting time to be outdoors enjoying nature. When it comes to fall color, not all trees are equal. Scientific reactions are responsible for those vivid hues. As the equinox passes and we see fewer daylight hours, the decrease in daylight means less photosynthesis. The decrease in photosynthesis means that the tree produces less chlorophyll. When you see those brilliant shades of yellow and orange, you see the color of the leaves without chlorophyll. Some leaves are brighter underneath than others, which simply turn brown. Shades of red and violet appear because of the presence of anthocyanins, which develop when sugars get trapped in the leaves. Maples, oaks, and dogwood trees are likely to produce these colors. Science aside, autumn leaves are one of my favorite things about the season. Not only are they beautiful to behold, but they are also a harbinger of celebratory times ahead. Here are 15 of my favorite fall trees with the best leaves. American Beech American beech is a slow grower with smooth, gray bark and a full, dense canopy. The leaves are simple, heavily veined, and slightly toothy. In spring and summer, they are a gorgeous blue-green shade. When autumn starts to creep in, those leaves change to brilliant bronze and gold. These trees need at least partial exposure and grow quite large over time. They need moist, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic and rich in nutrients. After the first few years, they need little pruning or maintenance and provide a lot of interest in the landscape. Black Tupelo Famed for the honey produced from its nectar, the Black Tupelo is an easy-going tree with reliably wonderful autumn colors. Its flowers are inconspicuous but are a great food source for bees. In addition to its fall leaves, it has interesting, scaly bark that adds interest in winter. The foliage lights up in shades of red, orange, yellow, and purple, with small bluish-black berries that attract birds. It has an oval growth habit and matures to between 30 ‘and 70’ tall. It’s not picky about exposure or soil as long as it doesn’t have wet feet. Ginkgo Ginkgos are amazingly long-lived and fascinating trees. The oldest specimen in the world is more than 3,000 years old! These truly get better and more beautiful with age. They have beautiful and unique fan-shaped foliage that is a lovely bluish-green in summer. For as lovely as they are throughout the year, ginkgos are a glorious golden spectacle in fall. Plant your ginkgo in a place where it gets a lot of light. They are drought tolerant and prefer sandy, well-drained soil. Make sure to loosen up and amend your soil if it is clay-heavy or compacts easily. They can live in Zones 3-9 but thrive best in more of a mid-range. Too much heat will decrease a ginkgo’s drought tolerance. Serviceberry Serviceberry is a member of the rose family and a more compact tree. At a mature height of 15 to 30 feet, it fits well in more modest spaces, and you can plant it closer to the house without fear of root damage. First, this tree is known for its spectacular spring floral display. When it blooms, it looks like a fluffy white cloud. As the days get shorter, serviceberry’s foliage changes to glowing red, gold, and orange embers. It glows in any garden space. In its first year, remember to keep the soil moist. Giving your serviceberry a layer of mulch around the base will help retain moisture in the soil. Trees that get more moisture produce more and better-quality, edible berries. Sugar Maple You’ll find sugar maple on any list of this kind. It’s simply one of the most flamboyant and reliable sources of autumn foliage around. Its attractive rounded crown makes it an ideal shade tree, and the vermilion, orange, and yellow foliage stands out in fall. Maple trees are generally well-loved for this reason. Sugar maple has the highest concentration of sugar of any species, which adds a lot of red tones. Sugar maples like well-drained, acidic soil, but they prefer it not to be too wet or dry. Give your sugar maple space from footpaths or driveways. Their roots are a bit sensitive. Sassafrass Sassafrass is a North American native with a rich history of use among Indigenous people. Female trees produce pretty yellow flowers in the spring, and the resulting berries feed birds and other wildlife. The plant also plays host to the spicebush swallowtail butterfly. The foliage is an interesting part of sassafras. The leaves aren’t all the same shape—some are ovoid—but the ends of branches hold interesting, tri-lobed leaves. When young, they have a citrus aroma. In autumn, they change to shades of orange, yellow, and red, sometimes even a deep burgundy. Eastern Redbud This member of the legume family is a double threat, with stunning spring flowers and incredible autumn foliage. It’s a compact tree with peeling bark that also provides winter interest. The heart-shaped leaves change from bright green to various warm colors, and the ‘Heart of Gold’ cultivar turns bright yellow. Full sun exposure will make Eastern redbud produce the most flowers. The rounded crown is a product of many horizontally tiered branches. Moist, well-drained soil is ideal, and it needs a winter chill to set buds. Ohio Buckeye Ohio buckeye is another mid-sized tree that blends well in most landscapes. It has a broad crown that is often slightly pointed on top. This is a bloomer, but the flowers are not highly visible among the leaves. They are, however, attractive to pollinators. The resulting fruit is poisonous. The fall color can span the spectrum from red to gold, with orange being the most common. Ohio buckeye makes a lovely shade tree. It prefers well-drained soil and is otherwise unfussy about composition and pH. It likes moderate moisture.

Durian Tree

The durian tree produces giant, spiky fruits that have a distinctive, pungent aroma and are popular throughout Asia. This large tree can also be grown in the US in certain climates. Durian fruit gets a bad rap sometimes. Some people think the ripe edible fruit smells like sewage or rot, while others think the opposite and really appreciate it. The flesh is described as custard-like and sweet by lovers of the fruit or like onion sauce by those who aren’t fans. Love it or hate it, durian fruit grows on a durian tree, and you can grow your own at home if you desire. It’s a divisive fruit that polarizes people who come into contact with it. It’s considered the “King of Fruits” in Southeast Asia, where several cultivars exist. In the United States, durian fruit is generally only one species of this multifaceted fruit. It may have a distinctive aroma, but eating durian can nourish the body with a wealth of nutrients. If you live in tropical regions with climates similar to Southeastern Asia, you can grow your own edible fruits from durian trees and enjoy raw fruit, durian chips, durian paste, and durian leaf juice. It’s such a versatile fruit, despite its reputation. Why not try growing it yourself?Durio zibethinus is one species of fruit trees found in markets in North America, while other species are located throughout Asia. Durian is in the family Malvaceae and is commonly referred to as the civet cat tree. The species zibethinus is named after the civet, a feline creature that hangs out in durian trees on the resident durian plantation in Malaysia.

Coconut Tree

Coconuts are much adored, and those in warm climates can grow their own coconut tree. Coconut fruits are the most widely used nut in the world. It’s safe to say you’ve probably heard of coconut coir, and you’ve enjoyed the delectable dried and sugared shavings of coconut. But have you ever considered growing a coconut tree yourself? Not only can you harvest the delicious flesh of a tropical coconut in the right climate, but you can also use the fibrous fruit coat in soil mixes, too. So much can be done with coconuts and the coconut palm that it might as well be the signature feature of the tropics. The coconut tree fruit is commonly used in cooking, and mature coconuts contain hydrating coconut water. But there’s so much mystery surrounding coconut cultivation. That’s pretty incredible when you consider coconut fruits are the most widely used nut in the world. You may think, “I can’t grow coconut palm. I live in Maine.” But that’s not exactly true! And what’s more, you may not need as much space to grow a coconut palm tree in northern USDA zones as you would in the tropics. How is this possible? Read on, and let’s explore the wondrous Cocos nucifera. The scientific name of coconut palms is Cocos nucifera, known commonly as coconut, coconut palm, and the succinct coco. Coconut is the most important commercial nut crop in the world. Not only do people across the world center their lives around coconut trees, but the economies of coconut-producing countries benefit greatly from coconut production.

Don’t Make These Common Tree Planting Mistakes

Although planting a tree is an exciting task, rushed planting and a lack of knowledge can lead to unhealthy trees. Join plant expert Briana Yablonski to learn common tree planting mistakes you should avoid. Adding trees to your property is a great way to provide natural shade, support pollinators, and enjoy homegrown fruit. But planting trees isn’t as simple as sticking them in the ground and walking away. Common mistakes include planting at the wrong depth, watering improperly, and choosing the wrong species can all lead to unhealthy or dead trees. Whether you’re planting your first tree or adding to your backyard orchard, it’s helpful to know some common tree planting mistakes. Avoiding these 11 errors will increase the odds you’ll end up with a healthy tree. Not all trees are well suited for every climate, sun exposure, and soil type. While you may dream of growing a weeping willow or flowering cherry in your front yard, planting a species that doesn’t fit into the surrounding environment will likely lead to an unhealthy plant and unhappy humans. When choosing a new tree for your property, take note of the following characteristics and choose a species that will thrive in that environment. Hardiness zone: Most species are suitable for various hardiness zones, but some will suffer when exposed to extreme heat or cold. Sun exposure: Whether you’re planting in full sun or shade, you can find a variety for the type of light you’re working with. Soil moisture: Some species, like willows and alders, require moist soil, and others grow best when the soil remains slightly dry. Although you can supplement the moisture level through irrigation, choosing a species well suited to the native moisture level will simplify care. Soil type: Some grow best in loose sand, while others thrive in dense clay. Available space: Ensure you have enough space for the full size at maturity. For instance, if you’re growing on a balcony, you’ll have to skip larger trees. Planting at the Wrong Time of Year Planting at the right time of year is crucial to its success. Aim to get your saplings in the ground when they’re dormant, which means they’re not actively growing. While the plants will take time to put on new growth, dormant trees will face less stress during the transition from a container to the ground. Fall and spring are both great times for planting trees. If you plant in the fall, wait until hot temperatures have subsided. However, try to plant a few weeks before freezing temperatures arrive. Planting around the time the leaves fall from the trees is a good bet. If you plant in the spring, get saplings in the ground before the buds break. It’s okay if the saplings experience a few frosts after you put them in the ground, but protect the new transplants with row cover if a frost arrives after bud break. Choosing a Poor Location While trees may seem hardier than tender annuals and vegetative perennials, they’re still sensitive to the type of light, moisture, and soil. If you add a tree to a less-than-ideal area, it may not thrive. Along with looking at environmental conditions like hardiness zone and light, you should also think about the tree’s growth. A tree may grow well next to your house or beside a brick wall for a few years, but once it reaches a certain size, it can begin encroaching on structures and utility lines. Therefore, it’s important to account for the tree’s growth before selecting a location. Look for above-ground obstacles like buildings, power lines, and other trees. While you can prune the tree to avoid these obstructions, it will involve consistent work. Next, think about low-lying items like sidewalks and driveways. As tree roots expand, they can cause these surfaces to buckle and crack. You should also consider if the roots’ spread will endanger underground utilities. If you want to plant a tree close to obstacles, look for a species that’s short and/or narrow. It helps to look at the tree’s mature shape when deciding which species to plant. Not Checking for Utilities Before Digging Before you dig a hole, you should always call to check and see if there are utility lines underground. Digging into an electric line or water supply pipe while planting a tree is not only dangerous, but it can be a costly mistake. Even if you don’t think any utilities are buried in your intended planting area, it doesn’t hurt to check. Most utility companies will come out and mark utility lines for no charge. It may take a few days or weeks for them to make it out to your property, so contact them well before your intended planting date. If you’re not sure who to call, dial 811 to be directed to the proper resources. Digging Too Small of a Hole One of the most common mistakes gardeners make when planting trees involves digging a hole that’s too small. Since 80% of tree roots are in the top two feet of soil, you want to make it as easy as possible for the roots to grow horizontally. Digging a wide hole loosens the soil and speeds root expansion. Regardless of which type and size of tree you’re planting, you should always dig the hole at least three times as wide as the root ball. You don’t have to dig the entire hole at the same depth. Instead, you can create a saucer-shaped hole that’s deep in the middle and shallower towards the edges. The roots will have an easier time growing into loosened soil than compacted soil. Plus, removing the soil gives you an opportunity to remove any large rocks that would inhibit root growth. Not Watering Enough Supplying newly planted trees with an adequate amount of moisture helps them recover from the stress of planting, and saves you from the headaches of moisture mistakes. Since young saplings and bare root specimens don’t have developed root systems, they require more frequent watering than larger trees. If they don’t have access to enough water, they will have difficulty regulating their temperatures, completing photosynthesis, and fighting disease. Many gardeners start on the right foot and keep their trees well watered in the weeks following planting. But as a few more weeks pass, life gets busy, and many forget to provide the new tree with water. This lack of irrigation can prove especially problematic during hot and dry summers. The amount of water to apply depends on the soil type, tree size, and rainfall. However, you should generally apply one-and-a-half gallons of water for each inch of the tree’s trunk. For example, supply three gallons of water to a two-inch wide tree and four-and-a-half gallons to a three-inch wide tree. The watering frequency typically decreases as the time from the planting date increases. A good rule of thumb is to water every day during the two weeks following planting and then every two to three weeks in the following ten weeks. While these are good recommendations, check the soil moisture and adjust as necessary. You can supply the water with a hose or bucket or automate watering with the help of a drip irrigation system and a timer. Regardless of which irrigation method you use, aim for infrequent deep waterings rather than frequent shallow waterings. Deep irrigation encourages the growth of deep roots and helps the plant withstand wind and drought. Watering Too Much Yes, there is such a thing as watering too much! Overwatering can prevent the roots from completing gas exchange, taking up nutrients, and properly absorbing water. Constantly moist soil also increases the chances that roots will develop fungal diseases. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between watering, and remember to water deeply and infrequently. Watering your plants a little each day will keep the soil moist and discourage the development of deep roots. Planting Too Deep Whether you start with a bare root or a potted tree, planting at the proper depth is crucial. If you plant too deep, the upper roots often grow around the trunk and strangle it. At first, this underground issue isn’t noticeable. But after a few years, a girdled tree often displays a quick and serious decline. You may notice premature leaf drop, yellowing leaves, reduced growth, and intense disease and insect pressure. Eventually, your once-healthy maple or birch dies. So, how deep should you plant your tree? No matter which type of material you’re starting with, use the trunk’s structure as a guide. Sometimes, nursery workers plant potted saplings too deep in their containers. Therefore, you can’t assume planting the top of the potting soil flush with the ground will lead to the correct depth. First, look for a flare in the trunk. This is the point where the straight trunk begins curving out before the roots. Placing the flare an inch or two above the soil surface is ideal. If you’re planting a grafted tree, keep the graft a few inches above the soil line. A trunk flare is often hard to see in small saplings. If that’s the case, you can use the top-most roots to guide the depth. These large, structural roots should be located one to three inches below the soil surface. If you’re growing on a slope, you’ll need to make some adjustments to ensure both the uphill and downhill roots are at the proper depth. First, flatten out the area where you plan to plant by digging into the slope or adding extra soil. Once you have a flat area, plant as you normally would. Starting with a Rootbound Sapling When you’re choosing a specimen, you have three main options: bare root, container-grown, and wrapped. If you start with a specimen growing in a pot, you should make sure it isn’t rootbound. If plants remain in their pots for too long, the roots eventually begin circling the bottom of the container. When you remove these rootbound saplings from their containers and place them in the ground, they often have a difficult time adapting to their new home. They have plenty of roots, but they have a difficult time spreading throughout the soil. It’s best to avoid purchasing rootbound trees. However, if you’re starting with a container-grown specimen with tightly-packed roots, you can take a few steps to help it adjust to planting. Cutting an X through the bottom of the roots will help them expand. You can also use your hands to lightly pull the roots apart. Improper Mulching Too much mulch, too little mulch, and improper mulch placement can all negatively impact trees. Therefore, it’s important to apply wood chips, straw, and any other type of organic matter in just the right way to protect them. When you add mulch, add two to four inches around the base of your tree. This will help protect the roots against both hot and cold temperatures and limit evaporation. Avoid applying more than four inches of mulch since too thick of a layer can lead to issues with airflow and water infiltration. Make sure to leave a few inches of space surrounding the trunk free of mulch, and never mound the mulch against the trunk. Creating a mulch volcano or mulch pyramid leads to multiple issues and a slow but serious decline in tree health. It can trap moisture and cause the bark to decay, which leaves the plant more susceptible to pests and disease. Roots often grow into the mounded mulch and sometimes girdle the trunk. As the mulch decays, these above-ground roots are left open to the air and quickly dehydrate. Not Protecting from Pests Since mature trees are expensive and often impractical, gardeners usually start with plants that are less than ten feet tall. These small plants are easier to plant and better able to adapt to their new home, but they’re also more susceptible to attacks from pests. Mammals like deer and beavers find the tender young growth to be delicious. These critters can eat through an entire trunk in a single day and kill the tree. Fortunately, you can easily protect from these pests. Wrapping the trunk with wire or heavy plastic mesh will make it impossible for the mammals to reach it. You should also keep an eye out for insect pests. Although you may not see any pests immediately after planting, caterpillars may appear later on. If they are causing serious damage to the leaves, you can remove them by hand or spray the foliage with Bt. Sometimes, a strong stream of water from a hose is enough.

Planting Under Cedar Trees

Do you have a cedar tree in your yard, but aren't quite sure what to plant underneath it? Certain plants will grow much better underneath cedar trees, but how do you know which ones to pick? Cedar trees are a favorite landscaping tree for many people all over the world. But finding the perfect plant to grow underneath them can be a bit of a challenge because of their structure, and root system. Adding plants under any tree is a common technique for integrating that tree into a landscape and avoiding empty space. You can also create an interesting layering effect by adding a mix of ground cover and shrubs. However, there are some important considerations when choosing these plants, especially for cedars. The wrong plants could harm nearby trees or not do well if they have to compete with the tree’s root system for water and nutrients. Read on to learn more about cedar trees and which plants do well underneath them.Cedar trees belong to the Pinaceae family. They’re native to the Himalayas and the countries that border the Mediterranean Sea. These evergreen trees are incredibly resilient. They don’t need a lot of water and thrive in slightly acidic soil with no fertilizer. The only maintenance they require is the occasional mulching and some light pruning. You’ll also have to water regularly when you first plant a cedar tree, but adult trees only need rainwater. Cedars need plenty of sun. They grow rapidly and do well in Zones 7 through 9A, but it’s a very versatile tree that can adapt to different conditions. There are a few diseases to watch out for, including cedar-apple rust, a type of fungal disease that affects cedar trees and apple trees. Port-oxford-cedar root disease is a condition that can spread through soil movement. Besides improving the aesthetics of your yard, plants that grow underneath your cedar tree can help loosen the soil and help the tree’s root system absorb more oxygen and nutrients. Another benefit is that plants will absorb excess water and help create ideal conditions for the cedar, especially if you live in an area with heavy precipitations. If water accumulates at the base of a tree, it can make the soil too compact and make it difficult for the roots to grow.Some plants do well under cedars and others don’t. Cedars thrive in soil that is slightly acidic, but they can grow in soil with a pH of anywhere from 5.5 to 7.2, so don’t assume your garden soil is necessarily acidic if you have a cedar tree. It’s best to test the soil before selecting plants that will go underneath the tree, to figure out whether you should select species that do well in acidic soil or not. Shade can be a challenge. Cedars are evergreens with dense foliage. Cedars can provide similar challenges to growing under other shade trees like oaks. Depending on the cedar variety, they can cast a big area of shade, making planting underneath them a challenge. The dripline can be another issue. Because of the dense foliage, water will drip where it ends and create a zone that could get saturated with water. The root system can vary from one type of cedar tree to another, but lots of trees in that family have shallow and fibrous roots. Limiting the number of plants you add around the tree is important so the tree can still get the water and nutrients it needs from the soil.

American Beech Trees

Do you have an American beech tree on your land that you’d like to preserve and maintain for many years to come? Perhaps you’re thinking about transplanting a young, container-grown American beech somewhere near your home? These U.S. natives can become massive, living for hundreds of years if healthy. Plant biologist Emily Estep will tell you everything you need to know about the great American beech. The American beech tree is an iconic species in the eastern United States, native all the way up through Canada and down to the tip of Florida. These enormous perennials can grow up to 80 feet tall with branches surprisingly low on the trunk. Due to their size and the amount of shade provided by their leaves, you absolutely must have enough space before committing to this tree. Fortunately, this native beech is a fairly low-maintenance tree as long as it gets enough water. There’s not much you need to do for this perennial when it’s planted in the right spot in the right zone, and you may enjoy gathering its edible nuts in the fall. Like other species in the Fagus genus, there are a few detrimental diseases that find their way into these trees, so if you’re growing one, keep a sharp eye out. If you’re somewhere in the range of zones 3 through 9 and looking for a giant centerpiece tree, read on to learn more. The American beech is a large, deciduous tree. It is the only one out of 13 total beech species that is native to the United States, found growing naturally throughout the eastern third of the country. Large, open areas are the best locations to plant these trees due to their immense size. They produce edible beechnuts that ripen in the fall. This enormous tree can grow up to 80 feet tall with a trunk that may get up to three feet wide. It has smooth, gray bark, and its branches are relatively low. American beeches may live for up to 250 years. Note that growing other plants in the shade of this tree can be challenging, between the dense canopy of leaves and shallow roots that can monopolize the soil. American beech is native to the eastern United States and Canada, growing as south as northern Florida. This temperate region experiences seasonal weather, ranging from freezing, snowy winters to hot summers, especially in the southern tip of the range. Transplanting established American beeches is difficult because of their shallow root system and enormous size, but you can purchase container-grown options to transplant instead. You can also grow these trees from collected beechnuts.

Weeping Willow Trees

Are you looking for a highly ornamental tree for a wetland edge, pond border, or rain garden? Weeping willows are large, graceful trees that command plenty of attention. In this article, gardening enthusiast Liessa Bowen introduces the weeping willow, and how to grow and maintain these elegant trees. When I think of a weeping willow tree, I conjure images of a large tree with gracefully swaying branches growing at the edge of a scenic lake or pond. The branches flow downwards like a cascading waterfall, nearly touching the water’s surface below. The willow tree stands alone and majestic, reflected in the still water, its leaves either at their vibrant green peak or perhaps golden yellow with showy autumn hues. Weeping willow trees have been used for centuries as a highlight in ornamental landscapes. Growing one at the water’s edge makes sense since these trees are thirsty and crave moist soil and plenty of sunlight. However, you won’t be able to—or even want to —grow this species just anywhere. If you hope to incorporate a weeping willow into your yard, take into account their specific needs and requirements to determine if this tree is right for you. There are approximately 350 species of willow trees and shrubs (genus Salix) within the willow family (Salicaceae), along with dozens of related hybrids and cultivars. Various species are native to Asia, Europe, Africa, and North and South America. The weeping willow originated in Asia and is now a widespread horticultural favorite. If you’re hoping to make a bold statement along the edge of your lake, pond, wetland, or rain garden, let’s take a closer look at the benefits and challenges of growing a weeping willow, and how to help your tree thrive and look its best. Weeping willow trees originated in China. People noticed and appreciated their natural beauty and started to cultivate them. They quickly spread to other Asian countries, Europe, the Middle East, and North America. Many species have naturalized in many states and can be found growing in riparian areas in the southeastern United States and also in California. These are fast-growing trees that reach 60 to 80 feet tall in optimal conditions. For a tree, they have a relatively short lifespan, living anywhere from 50 to 75 years. They have relatively weak wood that’s susceptible to breakage, particularly under the strains of snow, ice, or heavy storms. These trees are still important and valuable wetland trees in their natural habitat, providing shade, shelter, and foraging opportunities for a variety of birds, insects, mammals, and other animals. The weeping willow is a deciduous tree with great ornamental value. They develop a distinct form. The broad trunk develops several low-growing horizontal branches with uniquely weeping elongated leaf-lined stems. The rough, light gray bark is thick and heavily ridged. Each of the long, thin, weeping branches is lined with alternate leaves. The simple, lanceolate leaves are between three and six inches long and less than one inch wide. During the growing season, the leaves stay uniformly green and then become golden yellow in the autumn for some showy fall color. The trees blooms in early to mid-spring. These plants are dioecious with male and female flowers on separate trees. The flowers are called catkins. Catkins are elongated, pale greenish-yellow, and not especially showy, although they do attract some pollinators. Each catkin measures one to two inches long. After flowering, tiny seed capsules develop, full of fluffy, white, cottony seeds. These trees have long been cultivated and now include many unique varieties, including dwarf stature, golden yellow leaves, and corkscrew-shaped branches. Weeping willows generally have a rounded form, although the cultivars and other Salix species may be more spreading or vase-shaped. Weeping willow is surprisingly easy to propagate by cuttings. You could take a cutting at any time of year, but late winter is ideal for a very high chance of success. Select a healthy branch between one and two inches across and no more than six feet long. Cut the branch with a sharp pruning tool large enough to handle a branch cutting. Decide where you want to plant the cutting so it can grow into a large new tree. Prepare the site by removing competing vegetation and loosening the soil. Prepare a hole approximately eight to 10 inches deep and place the cutting in the hole. Push the soil against the cutting so the ground around the cutting holds it securely in place. Water the area well and keep it moist until the cutting begins to develop fresh new leaves. This will be the first indication that your cutting is a success. Keep the weeds away as your new tree begins to grow. These are fast-growing trees, and your cutting will soon begin to grow vigorously. Within a few years, it will transform from a branch cutting into an elegant young tree.

Mango Tree

When growing a mango tree, you'll need to know how to properly care for it. The reward is delicious tropical mango fruit! Jillian Balli will share our tips and secrets to mango success!For many of us, mangos are thought to be an occasional luxury treat due to the price and availability of fruit. Luckily, growing a mango tree at home is not impossible. It is time to stop depriving yourself of this delicious tropical treat and grow your own mangos! Although they are tropical trees, mangos can be grown in the ground in zones 9-11 or in containers in zones 4-11. Mango fruit is incredibly delicious to eat on its own but growing your own will allow you to get creative and enjoy them in different ways. The mango fruit can be used in smoothies, salsas, ice creams, and so much more. They can even be frozen or dehydrated so they can be enjoyed any time of the year. Whether you have a large space or a small patio, there’s a mango variety fit for you. There are hundreds of mango varieties available throughout different parts of the world. Local nurseries will carry types that are well adapted to your growing conditions. This guide will cover all the basics of growing a mango tree and provide some information on great varieties.Mangifera indica, commonly known as the mango tree, is a large tropical evergreen tree is known to grow up to 100 feet. It produces sweet, succulent tropical fruit in the summer and is often grown as an ornamental tree in gardens.

Monkey Puzzle Trees

Are you looking for an unusual conifer to add to the landscape? Monkey puzzle trees have been around for hundreds of millions of years, with odd branches covered in spiraling leaves. They’re surprisingly easy to grow in mild climates throughout the United States. Plant biologist Emily Estep walks you through everything you need to know about this South American native. Monkey puzzle trees are fun and unusual perennials that add an unexpected shape to the landscape. The branches grow in a parallel fashion with space in between. Native to Chile and Argentina, these plants have persisted on Earth for more than 200 million years. The International Union for Conservation of Nature classified A. araucana as an endangered species in 2011 due to a decreasing population trend, citing both the decline of mature individuals and the decline of habitat. It’s one of about 20 species in its genus, and quite a few of the other species are dwindling as well. They are relatively easy to care for, and their growth is slow but steady. The greatest difficulty in growing these plants is providing the right amount of water. They are used to the significant precipitation of the Andes mountains, but they’re also prone to rot in wet soil. Far from their native land, monkey puzzle trees are now planted in landscapes in mild climates all over the world. If you live in the right zone, you can add one of these striking living fossils to the landscape. Monkey puzzle tree is an evergreen conifer known for its symmetrical branches that grow with lots of open space between them. In its native habitat of the Andes mountains in Chile and Argentina, it can live to be more than 1,000 years old, earning the nickname “living fossil.” This species is the national tree of Chile. Though it’s not naturalized in the United States, it’s often grown in the South and the West Coast in USDA hardiness zones 7 through 10. This perennial has a pyramidal growth habit. Its branches grow without touching each other and form a unique, geometric shape. Small, triangular leaves spiral densely along the branches. This species does not provide much shade, due to the branches’ sparse growth. They add unusual texture and shape in the landscape all year long, though their large surface roots may interfere with the lawn, sidewalks, and foundations. Eventually at maturity, the branches widen to form a canopy, with no branches below, reaching 80 feet. This is highly unlikely in a cultivated, landscape plant. These plants have either cylindrical (male) or spherical (female) cones that emerge in a shade of green before fading to yellow and then brown. The cones drop seeds in the fall. This can be a bit of a hassle to clean up, but they’re actually edible. These seeds are usually roasted similarly to pine nuts. This plant is native to the Andes mountains in both southern Chile and western Argentina. It grows on volcanic hills. This temperate location sees a lot of rain, experiences average humidity, and observes winter temperatures that go just below zero (~-18°C). This species will grow in similar, mild climates down to zone 7 as long as it gets enough water. You can purchase small monkey puzzle trees and plant them in the landscape of your home. It’s possible to grow them from seeds, too, but the cold stratification and germination processes can take up to six months. Young plants can be kept in pots but will quickly outgrow them. When planting, consider that these trees can ultimately expand to 30 feet in width and will have sprawling roots.

the Holly Tree

The holly tree is a worldwide phenomenon, with hundreds of types. In this article, Kelli Klein will discuss some of the most popular types and share tips on their care. Holly trees are widely recognized as a symbol of Christmas with their spiny leaves and clusters of scarlet berries. But did you know that there are over 400 species in the holly family? The American holly tree grows natively all over the eastern United States. This evergreen tree has many different varieties and native habitats all over the world, from Europe to Japan to the Caribbean. Holly trees can add a pop of green to your winter landscape, and they are excellent for borders or hedges. Some holly trees grow rather large, while some holly species remain on the smaller side or dwarf size. Because these trees grow year-round, they also provide cover and food sources for many birds and other wild animals during the winter. Numerous species of holly trees are dioecious, meaning that you will need both female and male types to cross-pollinate the females to produce berries. Many species share similar needs and management, and below, we’ll discuss a generalized guide to holly tree care. Their red berries and green leaves make them stand out in the landscape, but if a gigantic holly tree isn’t your thing, there are also varieties that more closely resemble small trees or holly bushes. Holly trees are made up of over 500 species in the Ilex family. American holly trees and European holly are the most widely recognizable holly species due to their association with Christmas time decorations and traditions. European holly, Ilex aquifolium, is thought to have derived its name from the Latin word acrifolium, which literally translates to “sharp leaf”.

Giant Sequoia Trees

Do you want to grow the largest tree in the world? If your landscape has 30-60 square feet of open space and lots of summer moisture, you can plant your own Giant Sequoia to reach up to 150 feet in your lifetime! In this guide, garden expert Logan Hailey explains how to grow this gigantic living fossil. If you want to grow the largest tree in the world, you can plant your own Giant Sequoia in USDA zones 6 through 8. These breathtaking giants are native to California, and their species has lived on Earth for millions of years. Only about 75 wild groves remain scattered along the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in central California, where they once dominated the landscape until logging and more severe wildfires killed huge stands. Still, these are some of the most fire-resistant and climate-resilient trees on the planet. Amazingly, these living fossils can grow up to 150 feet in just 50 years! They are cold and heat-tolerant, growing around the U.S. and the world as ornamentals and timber resources. You don’t need to live in California to grow a redwood, but you do need to ensure the proper spacing and conditions for this rapid-growing conifer to thrive. Let’s dig into everything you need to know about growing your own gigantic redwood! When dinosaurs roamed the Earth about 70 to 180 million years ago, gigantic conifers ruled North America and Europe. Often called the redwoods, most Sequoia relatives have gone extinct, but two primary species remain: Coast Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) and Giant Sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum). Another smaller relative, the Dawn Redwood, is widely cultivated and grows wild inChina. While Coast Redwoods are the tallest trees in the world, Giant Sequoias are the largest by volume. The largest known specimen is nicknamed “The General Sherman Tree,” and grows in Sequoia National Park near Mount Whitney in Central California. This tree is over 270 feet tall and 30 feet in diameter. Scientists estimate that it is about 3,800 years old! Though you may not see its tremendous heights in your lifetime, planting a Giant Sequoia tree sapling in your landscape could yield 30-60 or more feet of growth in a few decades and up to 150 feet in 50 years. The Giant Sequoia tree—also known as giant redwood, Sierra redwood, or Sequoiadendron giganteum—is one of three remaining redwood species in the world. This coniferous tree grows 200-300 feet tall and about 10 to 20 feet in diameter, withstanding centuries of wildfires and climate changes. Native to the Sierra Nevada Mountains of Central California, Giant Sequoias are the largest trees by volume and are now cultivated in many parts of the world as ornamental and timber species. The last remaining native wild groves are the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California. This species is specifically adapted to mild climates with humid winters and dry mild summers at elevations between 4,000 and 8,500 feet. However, there is evidence that ancestors of the Giant Sequoias were once widespread across the Northern Hemisphere. They are now cultivated around the world, including parts of the Pacific Northwest, Southern United States, South America, Europe, and Japan. Nursery-grown saplings are the quickest and easiest way to establish a Giant Sequoia, but you can also grow this tree from seeds or cuttings. The seeds can be collected from mature redwoods (70+ years old) in the fall, but they have very low germination rates. Cuttings are best taken from younger trees under 10 years old, so your decision between seed or cutting may depend on whether or not properly-aged trees grow in your area. These nuances also explain why purchasing from a reputable nursery is ideal. The Jonsteen Company’s SequoiaTrees.com offers live tree seedlings for shipment. If you wish to grow an ornamental cultivar like ‘French Beauty’ or ‘Albospica,’ you may need to find a specialized landscaping nursery.

Papaya Tree

The papaya tree is a lovely tropical tree with tasty fruit. Carica papaya fruit is rich in nutrients and aids in digestion. It is also a tasty option for fruit salads when ripe, in Thai cuisine when still green, and makes an excellent dried snack. Are you interested in growing a tropical fruit tree, but you can’t commit to 20 years of care? Well, look no further than the papaya tree. Papaya trees produce nutritious papaya fruit and have a relatively short lifespan. They’re easy to grow in containers, too! I don’t know about you, but I adore papaya fruit. It’s something I spring for when it comes to improving digestion, and it’s so good fresh. Green papaya is excellent in Thai salads and ripe fruit is lovely when sliced and served up for breakfast. Dried papaya slices are my go-to for long hikes and camping trips. Growing papaya trees is beneficial, not only through enjoying the papayas but also by learning something new in the garden. So let’s discuss how you can grow this lovely tropical tree at home. Carica papaya, the papaya tree is also known as paw paw, Okwuru-ezi, Okwuru- bekee, Mgbimgbi among Igbo peoples, and Ibepe among Yoruba peoples.

Dawn Redwood Trees

If you don’t live in the ideal foggy coastal climate for growing a California Coast Redwood, you can still plant a redwood in your landscape! Dawn Redwood trees are native to China and adaptable to USDA zones 4-8. Garden expert Logan Hailey explains everything you need to know about growing this ancient coniferous tree. When you think of redwood trees, Northern California most likely comes to mind. But there is another species of redwood—the Dawn Redwood—that is native to China. These ancient trees share many characteristics with the iconic giants of the Pacific Northwest. But Dawn Redwoods are much more suitable for ornamental landscaping! It even offers fall color that most coniferous trees lack. If you want to grow a redwood tree but live far from the foggy coast of Northern California, then Metasequoia glyptostroboides is probably a suitable alternative. Let’s dig into everything you need to know about growing this fast-growing living fossil! Once thought to be extinct, Dawn Redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides) was rediscovered by Chinese foresters in 1944 in the Sichuan province of Southern China. Botanists thought the trees had been extinct for more than a million years, but when the country reopened to foreign visitors, they found forests full of the “living fossil” tree. This tree is a close relative of America’s famous Coast Redwoods and Giant Sequoias, but it has much more cold tolerance and a smaller size. Dawn Redwoods are grown around the world as valued ornamentals. They turn golden-bronze and drop their needles in the fall, which is a unique attribute for a conifer (cone-bearing tree). The deciduous species regrows its leaves in the spring. Dawn Redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides) is an ancient tree and the last living species of its genus. A close relative of California’s Coast Redwood, this species is native to the other side of the world in China. Dawn Redwoods are smaller, more cold-tolerant, and more adaptable than their fog-loving cousins, which makes them ideal for ornamental use in USDA zones 4-8. This deciduous conifer is known for its distinct pyramidal shape, straight trunk, and fast growth rate. At maturity, the trunk can reach over seven feet in diameter and 60-160+ feet tall. The tree is mostly suited for parks and botanical gardens, but homeowners with larger properties can grow this redwood. Metasequoia glyptostroboides is an endangered redwood tree native to the Sichuan province of Southern China, where it is colloquially called 水杉 or shui shan. Much like the famous panda bear, the tree is a conservation icon, and tremendous efforts have been made to preserve the last old-growth forests. These ancient trees date back over 150 million years to the Mesozoic Era. In its native range, Dawn Redwood trees thrive in mild temperate climates with wet slopes and stream valleys. While they are technically the smallest of the redwoods, Coast Redwoods are the tallest, and Giant Sequoias are the largest by volume, these Chinese natives are still impressively large, with some being documented at over 160 feet tall. It is perfectly legal (and recommended) to grow this endangered ancient tree. Dawn Redwoods are more adaptable to temperate landscapes than their cousins. Suitable for USDA zones 4-8, these trees are fast-growing and smaller than other redwoods, but they still require a large area of at least 25 feet in every direction. These ornamental conifers are not recommended for regular residential yards but are suitable for large estates, farms, homesteads, and parks. Coniferous (cone-bearing) trees are typically propagated vegetatively from cuttings. While you can grow a Dawn Redwood from seed, it is a long and laborious process. The seeds have less than a 5% germination rate and can take months to sprout. Moreover, the saplings take a long time to reach a transplantable size. For the fastest growth, purchase nursery saplings or take cuttings from an established tree. For more genetic diversity and experimentation, try growing from seed!