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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
gardening experts
A rite of passage for most beginner gardeners is growing cherry tomatoes. It can kickstart the love of gardening! Our tips make it easy. Growing cherry tomatoes is a great place to start growing all sorts of tomatoes. Most gardeners have tomatoes growing at some point. There’s much to choose from, with over 100 established varieties of cherry tomatoes. In the scheme of all tomato varieties cherries are easy to grow. Cherry tomatoes or Solanum lycopersicum were cultivated for centuries from wild tomato fruits grown in the Andes. Inca peoples selected them for their sweet taste and snacking ability. Anyone with the privilege of eating a ripe cherry tomato right off the plant knows why this happened. When you’re stocking up on tomato seeds for spring, consider growing cherry tomatoes. We like Chadwick’s cherry tomatoes from San Diego Seed Co. Whether you’re interested in heirloom seeds, black cherry tomatoes, determinate, or indeterminate seeds, cherry tomatoes make it easy to produce something worthwhile throughout the growing season. Grow them, eat them fresh, can them, and have sweet flavor infused with the sun year-round! Forget other tomatoes; let’s grow cherry tomatoes! All About Cherry Tomatoes Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme is also known as cherry tomato, as well as a wide selection of varietal names ranging from tomaccio to Sungold to Dances With Smurfs. They originate from wild tomatoes cultivated in the Andes by Inca peoples about 80,000 years ago. Tomato plants have trichome-covered leaves and fruits that cluster. The difference between cherry tomato plants and other tomato plants is that cherry tomato fruits and seeds are smaller. These tomatoes grow from flowers blooming on branches covered with green serrated leaves which connect to a central stem. External pollination occurs on tomatoes, but they are self-pollinators. The yellow tomato plant flower has five petals. After flowers die, fruit forms. The edible part of a tomato plant is the fruit. Leaves can be eaten, but they are poisonous to humans in large quantities. Like other nightshade plants, tomato leaves contain alkaloids solanine and tomatine that are hard to digest. Still, there is a lot of debate as to whether tomato leaves can be cooked. There are tons of cherry tomato varieties to choose from. I’m currently growing Cherokee purple cherry tomatoes, an indeterminate variety that exploded since spring moved into summer. They have purple skin, a red interior, and great flavor. Traditional red varieties are a great way to start your tomato journey. If a red tomato bores you, there are many types of tomatoes to choose from, including yellow and orange varieties. Planting Cherry Tomatoes Determinate varieties are easier to grow in containers (like the Air Pots stocked in our online store) or raised beds. Indeterminate varieties go wild in the garden and require a lot of space and care. Plant them in prepared ground. Leave at least four feet between each row of these plants. But choosing the right variety will have bearing on how to plant your tomatoes. Transplant summer varieties after the last frost. If you’re starting your tomatoes from seed, start those tomato seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost. Plant fall varieties a few months before the first frost. Tomato plants need deep holes, at least 10 inches down. Plant your tomatoes in deep holes to allow solid root growth and nutrient uptake. Add a tomato trellis early on instead of a tomato cage which cherry tomatoes quickly outgrow. The trellises or stakes (instead of cages) give you vertical room to work within your garden. This also prevents heirloom tomatoes from contracting diseases. Cages and stakes are great supports for your plants but due to clustering, consider a trellis for your tomatoes. Cages are a no-go here unless you have extremely tall cages that can handle indeterminate growth. Caring for Cherry Tomatoes Caring for a cherry tomato plant is easy if the right conditions are met and maintained every day. Here are key aspects to pay attention to.
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Are you looking for a bit of fall color in your garden beds? Asters are your answer. These stunning perennials are popular across North America, especially in pollinator gardens. Plant one variety, or choose several of the hundreds in this genus and plant family for a garden full of wildlife and color throughout summer and fall.Asters are a genus of plants with captivating star-shaped flowers that carpet garden landscapes throughout fall. Asters are easy to grow and are one of the few plants that flower reliably in the cooler season. This can help extend the color of spring and summer longer than most other perennials. These plants are also low maintenance and produce masses of flowers with very little effort. The flowers come in a wide range of colors, from softer blues and purples to bright, luminescent red. They also attract a wide range of pollinators and are beloved by bees when the other flowers in your garden die down. With a choice of over 600 plants (either part of the aster genus or previously part of the aster genus still known as asters, but we’ll clear up that confusion later), there is an aster out there for every gardener. Fill your beds and containers with these lively plants for fall interest and a garden full of pollinators for years to come. The name aster derives from the Ancient Greek for ‘star’, describing the star-like shape of the flowers. While there isn’t much known about the origins and spread of this popular plant, we do know when they gained their popularity. Around the 18th century, when plant collecting and studies were beginning to take off, botanists traveled the world in search of new and interesting plant varieties. Asters fell high on that list due to their variety and stunning flowers. Brought back to Europe from North America, Asters perfectly suited the wilder, more informal cottage garden style exploding around Victorian England. The flowers were grown across the country, becoming somewhat of an obsession. The plants were hybridized and cross-bred to create the dramatic diversity in color and size we have today. Aster can be a confusing genus. Up until the 1990s, asters comprised over 600 species of plants. That number has since been reduced to around 180 due to the reclassification of some of the plants. Some flowers previously known as asters are now labeled Eucephalus, Oreostemma, or Symphyotrichum, among many others. However, don’t let the botanical naming conventions confuse you. Most of these plants are still commonly known as asters, even if they aren’t technically part of the aster genus. They also all have similar growing conditions and care requirements, depending on the cultivar. There are several ways to propagate asters, each producing relatively reliable results. For those who want full control of the growing process, start by growing from seed. Existing plants with plenty of growth can be divided after a few years. Alternatively, you can steal a few cuttings from your neighbors garden (prior permission recommended) and propagate that way.
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Are you looking to grow Blue False Indigo in your garden? Beginner gardeners or those wanting a low-maintenance, water-wise plant to add to their landscape will be satisfied with this native perennial. Gardening expert Madison Moulton takes a look at this popular plant, covering absolutely everything you need to know from planting to cutting the flowers in spring.Native plants often provide plenty of rewards for very little effort, whether that be in their stunning flowers, vigorous growth, or glossy foliage. But very few plants provide as much reward for as little effort as Blue False Indigo – Baptisia australis. In late spring, this plant shoots up gorgeous blue flowers reminiscent of other members of the pea plant family. But that’s not all there is to love about False Indigo. The glossy green leaves stand tall in garden beds, maintaining interest for the rest of the year out of the short flowering season. The blooms are pollinator magnets and draw a range of good bugs to your garden in spring and summer. And, to top it all off, they have almost no problems with pests and diseases. Take a look at these growing and planting tips for everything you need to know about keeping your Blue False Indigo thriving in your garden. Native to North America and commonly found in the central or eastern parts of the United States, Blue False Indigo was used by Native Americans for hundreds of years. It was primarily used as a blue dye. Strong pigments were extracted from the plant and used to color different materials. The long taproots were also harvested to make natural medicines to treat pain and nausea, and the hardened seed pods typical of the legume family were believed to be used as children’s rattles. British settlers took notice of the Native American’s use of Baptisia as a blue dye. At the time, indigo pigments from the plant Indigofera tinctoria were incredibly popular. This plant originated in the West Indies and was shipped around the world in the 18th century. However, demand far exceeded supply, and the settlers began using Baptisia as a replacement. Although the color was not as intense or vibrant as true Indigo, it did provide the blue hue in fashion in the 1700s. It became an essential crop and was even exported to other parts of the world until farmers began growing true Indigo in North American territory. Its time as a global economically important crop may have been short-lived, but the plant’s popularity has not waned. Instead, it is now valued for its ornamental qualities and ability to grow well in a wide range of conditions with little to no maintenance. Wild Baptisia australis can be found in the Midwest of the United States today. They are usually situated around woodlands or along streams and in meadows. However, this native plant is not restricted to the wilderness, nor its native habitat. False Indigo is a common garden plant in the US, found in nurseries across the country. It is one of only a few native blue flowers that have the true blue color not often seen in nature. It is also incredibly easy to grow and establishes itself well in most parts of the United States. Baptisia australis has also been introduced to other parts of the world and can be found growing in many European gardens. It has even won the prestigious Royal Horticultural Society’s Award Of Garden Merit, indicating its appreciation on continents far from its native area. It also won the award for Perennial Plant of the Year in 2010, awarded by the Perennial Plant Association. This is a big award for this popular blue perennial flower. Essentially, there are few places around the world where this plant is not beloved. Baptisia is most often propagated from seed, but can also be propagated from cuttings or by division. Seed germination rates are not particularly high, and propagating from cuttings, although requiring more equipment, usually produces more reliable results. Propagating by division is only recommended after the plant has been growing for a few years and should only be done when absolutely necessary, as the long taproots do not like to be disturbed.
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I bet you’re working on your fall to-do list, and I’m right there with you. But pruning your trees is something you should leave off that list until late winter. Join organic farmer Jenna Rich as she discusses five reasons you should never prune your trees in the fall. Fall is a time for gardeners to clean up their garden beds, sharpen and clean tools, organize sheds and greenhouses, and tidy up so they’re ready for spring chores. It might seem like a great time to prune your trees to get that off your to-do list, but doing so may undo much of the hard work you’ve done leading up to the fall to ensure your trees stay healthy and strong. When adding trees to your lineup, ensure they are compatible with your growing zone. Doing so will set them up for success and make caring for them more enjoyable. A tree out of its element and experiencing high stress levels won’t thrive, so checking that your region aligns with its needs will yield the best results. If you’re like me, your fall and winter checklists are in full effect. When all the items are checked off, I have peace of mind, which allows me to enjoy my winters and feel prepared for spring. Let’s discuss five reasons you should never prune your trees in the fall. Your Tree is Busy Preparing For Winter Humans greatly enjoy watching the transition of summer greens to autumnal oranges, yellows, and reds, so it’s hard for us to understand just how hard the trees are working internally. It’s a significant endeavor that takes lots of energy. Think of everything you do around your home and property as the seasons change to refresh, prepare, and unload for the upcoming season. Trees and perennial plants are doing something similar internally in preparation for the change of seasons. Imagine someone asking you to give a speech just as you fall asleep for the night. It probably wouldn’t be great, right? As their colors change and leaves drop, the trees’ energy shifts into their own fall chores, including sugar concentration, intentional dehydration, and cellular shrinkage. As they adjust to shorter days, colder temperatures, and less water, they slow their processes down to prepare for dormancy. Concentrated sugars serve as a natural anti-freeze, which helps them tolerate freezing temperatures, reduces the risk of them exploding from being too cold, and provides energy in the winter months. Cells shrink and harden, preventing damage from freezing temperatures and harsh winds. Surviving the winter in some regions is an impressive feat, so it takes a lot of preparation. Note that some species produce buds in the summer months that will overwinter just fine. Pruning too early may remove these, giving you a less-than-spectacular show in the spring. They Need To Focus Energy on Their Roots We often discuss the need for a robust root system, which anchors plants to the ground, helps prevent topsoil and nutrient loss, and ensures proper growth and immunity response. When we prune during the fall transition period, we force energy into the wounded areas rather than allowing the tree to focus on its root system. This can be detrimental to the tree’s health and longevity. Instead, take advantage of the cooler working temperatures. Soil temps will remain warm, encouraging roots to expand and stretch deeper into the soil, well out of eyes’ reach. Once trees lose their leaves, they can hone in on underground activity. When they wake in the spring, deep, strong roots mean a healthy start to the season! Damage From Fresh Wounds Imagine having a large, fresh cut on your arm and heading outside into the wind and cold weather without any covering. You can imagine the pain you might feel when the air hits the open wound. Trees may not “feel” the same way we do, but wounds, even from necessary pruning, are still wounds and should be treated as such. Remember also that several types of beetles are still active in the fall, and wounds may exacerbate their damage. The best time to prune is during dormancy when less activity is happening inside the tree, and the risk of disease spread is significantly reduced. Winter pruning encourages new spring growth. Wounds made over winter will heal more quickly during the spring months. Note: Spring flowering plants like azaleas should not be pruned until after they flower. Pruning in the winter removes fresh buds, so you’ll be without spring blooms. While it was once commonplace to see tree wounds closed up with white paint, updated research tells us to leave them be and let them complete their natural immunity response for best results. According to the University of Illinois Extension, trees will respond to a wound with wound tissue, which will seal the pruning cut. Sealing it up with paint is detrimental since oxygen is required for this process to occur. Healthy specimens are more likely to ward off future attacks, so it’s our job to keep them as healthy as possible. Wet Conditions Promote Disease Spread Many fungal and bacterial pathogens thrive in fall’s wet, cool conditions. In many regions, fall brings cool, damp weather, wreaking havoc on freshly pruned trees and shrubs. These pathogens can easily creep into the open wounds when humidity levels are high. Oak wilt, Nectria canker, Dutch elm disease, bacterial canker, fire blight, apple scab, peach scab, and blossom wilt are just a few diseases to watch out for in the fall. Proper pruning, copper sprays, and immediate removal of infected tree parts work to control some of these, but oak wilt and bacterial canker have no known proven home gardener treatments. Trust your sources when bringing new trees to your property. Select disease-resistant varieties and grafts when available. Contact your local experts if you’re unsure what’s happening with your orchard. Swift action is always best! Keep your eyes peeled for elm leaf beetles (Xanthogaleruca luteola). These pests chew holes in leaves and may hibernate in the surrounding areas, ready to cause more trouble in future years. Unfortunately, this pest has few natural enemies, so prevention or chemical control are the only options. You Don’t Want To Encourage New Growth Before Winter New growth is green and vulnerable. Promoting new growth before winter exposes it to extreme conditions it’s not ready for. As mentioned, fall offers the perfect conditions for plants to focus on their root system. Leaving them be for a few months allows them to do naturally what they know to do. Let the tree close up shop for the year (and you do the same) and encourage new spring growth during winter pruning sessions. Waiting until the trees are bare of leaves allows you to see the shape more clearly and create an efficient pruning plan. You can see overlapping and twisted branches, growth outside the desired canopy shape, and dead or diseased limbs. Exceptions To The Rule Light pruning may be recommended if your tree shows signs of disease or has lower branches near or touching the ground. Contact a local arborist or tree specialist at your local extension office for necessary assistance. A Note About Conifers Spruce and pines retain their needles all year and don’t enter full dormancy like deciduous species. Pine needles retain more moisture and allow them to convert sunlight into chlorophyll all year, which is why they are sometimes called evergreens. While they don’t entirely go dormant, their bark and branches offer insulation and protection from the cold, so they should be pruned in spring like deciduous trees for best results. What To Do In The Fall Instead Clean up garden debris Determine your mulching plan Amend your soil so it’s ready for spring Cover crop to suppress weeds and reduce soil erosion Be patient until your trees are in dormancy to perform pruning Are you stuck on which trees to choose? Consider low-maintenance trees like winterberry holly, witch hazel, and serviceberry, which will still provide shade, beauty, pollinator attraction, and height.
Read MoreFind and share everyday cooking inspiration on Allrecipes. Discover recipes, cooks, and how-tos based on the food you love and the friends you follow.
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Chicken Salad Sliders…perfect for parties, appetizers or an easy, light supper.
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These potatoes are incredibly tender on the inside yet amazingly crisp on the outside – the perfect side dish to any meal!
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