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Experienced gardeners are well aware of this reality and have even come to enjoy the ephemeral nature of their outdoor spaces.
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Growing mizuna to add to salads, soups, or stir-fries is incredibly easy. Our complete growing guide provides you with our top tips! Stir-fries in spring and salads in the middle of summer both have one thing in common – the peppery and wonderful vegetable that is mizuna! An addition to the garden that produces early in the season and can tolerate the type of weather fluctuations that gardener nightmares are made of, these wonderful little plants will give you harvest after harvest of delicious greens for months. Growing mizuna greens should be on the garden plan of any family who loves to cook. Native to the Kansai region of Japan, these seeds have now traveled the globe and are grown in zones USDA 3-10. They were also grown in outer space as part of a vegetable growing experiment on the International Space Station! These distinctive plants spring up from the soil almost overnight and make great salad, stir-fries, and shabu-shabu among other dishes. Traditionally, many chefs have pickled the mizuna’s tender green leaves to make a variety of side dishes. Some plant mizuna varieties that are purple because of the presence of anthocyanin, the same compound that turns blueberries blue! Similar to the taste of arugula, you can tell them apart by the distinct mustard aftertaste of the mizuna. This plant does especially well when grown in rotation with legumes. A heavy nitrogen feeder, it will happily soak up the nitrogen that legumes ‘fix’ in the soil. All About Mizuna Japanese mizuna greens have long been a staple of Asian cooking, as the plant originated in Japan. Like other greens mizuna go by a long list of names like Japanese mustard, potherb mustard, California peppergrass, shui kai, and spider mustard. A peppery and spicy vegetable, this versatile addition to the garden can be grown year-round in some regions and is valued for its wonderful nutritional content. A member of the brassica family, it’s actually in the same family as cabbage. Unlike other brassicas, mizuna can tolerate heat and cold weather to a better extent. Mizuna greens are foot-tall clumps of green serrated leaves with thin stems. While some cultivars also produce purple leaves like ‘Mizuna Crimson Tide’, this plant is added to gardens almost exclusively for its leaves. A quick grower, small grey seeds quickly sprout into sturdy leaves in small circular clumps. Near the end of the plant’s life, it will bolt and go to seed-producing small yellow flowers on long green spikes above the plant. Planting Mizuna It’s best (and easy!) to grow mizuna from seed. A small round grey seed roughly the size of a lentil, it’s easy to sow. Sow seeds to 1/4th to 1/2 inch deep in well-drained rich soil. Plant in rows 18-24 inches apart. After sowing seeds, plants will germinate in 4-7 days if temps are between 45-85 degrees. Once the seedlings reach 1 inch in height, thin to 6 inches apart. You can expect a harvest 3 to 6 weeks after germination. It’s best to plan on planting your seeds two weeks after the last frost, but if grown in areas with no frost, mizuna can be planted in the garden in late summer. Care A hardy choice, mizuna has a few basic growing requirements. Plant mizuna in a sunny area with well-draining and fertilized soil and you’re already off to a great start! Sun and Temperature A great choice for a northern garden that gets the occasional late frost, mizuna is a hardy little green that once established can take a sudden and unexpected frost. As such, it can be one of the earliest crops in the garden. Likewise, for a southern garden, these plants can tolerate hotter weather than most other greens. Able to grow in USDA zones 3-10; mizuna grows best in the full sun of the day but can tolerate partial shade. Requiring 10-12 hours of sunlight, try planting in an area that will receive little if any shade. Additionally, sow several inches apart so that fully grown plants don’t shade out plants that are regenerating themselves. Water and Humidity Moist soil is the key to happy mizuna! Its leaves contain a great deal of water, and if the soil dries out, it can cause your mizuna to go to seed. Mizuna greens need to be watered in the morning, preferably on a drip system. Early in its life, try watering your mizuna twice a week to keep the soil evenly wet. After the leaves grow and shade the soil surrounding itself, decrease to once a week. Water one inch a week, and add a light mulch of straw or fine wood chips around the seedlings. In spring and fall, reduce watering if the soil becomes waterlogged. In Summer, monitor the soil if it dries out quickly in heat or warm winds. Soil It’s best to grow mizuna greens in well-drained rich soil. Ideally, amend the soil with compost or sterilized manure before sowing seed. Mizuna thrives in most soils but needs a pH of between 6.0-7.5. If growing in containers, coco coir is a great choice as it aids in drainage. But again, don’t allow it to dry out as it will start to go to seed. Fertilizing Mizuna greens have very simple fertilization requirements. As these plants are grown for their leaves they need a lot of nitrogen! When you first sow your seeds, work well-rotted manure into the soil. This will provide nitrogen early in the plant’s life. After about one month, apply a liquid seaweed solution or fish emulsion to keep the mizuna growing well. Reapply every month or so or as needed. Pruning Mizuna greens are a very rewarding crop. As it’s easy to grow mizuna, once established, mizuna will tolerate several rounds of cutting. Once the leaves reach between 10-12 inches in length, cut the stems to about 1 inch off the ground. It’s best to use a sharp or serrated knife and cut parallel to the ground. After cutting, water the area and ensure the soil stays moist. In a few short weeks, you’ll be able to harvest again! Propagation Mizuna greens are exclusively grown from seed. A fast-growing harvest, either sow seed or purchase seedlings. Seeds are hardy as well! They have great viability when saved for up to 4 years! Harvesting and Storing Harvesting mizuna is as simple as snipping a delicious green leaf. A great cut and come again option, this Japanese mustard is a bountiful addition to the garden. Harvesting Mizuna, like any green, can be eaten at even the earliest stages of growth. However, it’s best to harvest mizuna between 20 and 40 days after germination. Many gardeners like this Japanese green when it’s still in a relatively young stage as tender greens. Others prefer to let this green get upwards of 10 inches long before harvesting. Cut the greens at the base of the leaf leaving inner growth undisturbed. Storing Once picked, store unwashed mizuna greens in a salad spinner or breathable bag in the fridge. Make sure to avoid storing in a sealed plastic bag as this will cause the green leaves to immediately begin to decay. For long-term storage, try pickling your greens. Japanese chefs and home cooks have long been pickling these sturdy greens and using them as a condiment. Pickling is a common method of preservation in Asian cooking. Many recipes abound for pickled side dishes. A short search will bring up lots of delicious options! Troubleshooting You’re in luck! Mizuna greens are a relatively easy plant to grow. Monitor outdoor temps, keep your soil moist, and use a row cover and you’ll likely have a trouble-free crop in a month or so! Growing Problems Mizuna greens are a very hardy green. Able to withstand warm summer weather better than most other greens, you can harvest mizuna up into the 80’s. Keep in mind however that it can bolt. Bolting happens when your mizuna tries to reproduce and grows seeds for another generation of plants. To avoid bolting, ensure that the soil around the base is continuously moist as dryness will trigger the plant to reproduce. Alternatively, if you’re expecting weather over 85 degrees, you can expect to see the end of harvest. Pests Flea beetles are the primary pest you’ll come across when caring for mizuna. These beetles lay their eggs on the soil surface not too far from the stalks. The larvae hatch and eat holes in the stems and leaves. To prevent flea beetles, cover your crop with a row cover, this prevents the beetles from physically laying their eggs anywhere near your plants. Aphids are small light green bugs about 1/8th of an inch long. They usually appear in groups and suck the sap of the plant. They multiply rapidly and can kill a plant by eating too much and introducing disease into the weakened plant. Use insecticidal soap & pyrethrum to control. Diseases Mizuna greens are not very susceptible to disease. The one exception is damping off, a disease most likely to happen when you sow seeds in trays indoors. Damping-off presents as a fuzzy mold on top of the soil and stems that appear shrunken or eaten. There is no cure, but it can be prevented by increasing ventilation or spreading sulfur powder over the affected areas to stop the spread to surrounding seedlings.
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Did you know that some of the most nutrient-dense vegetables—the so-called powerhouse vegetables—are also the most cold-tolerant? They’re all cruciferous vegetables or leafy greens, and in most hardiness zones, you can grow them all winter long without a greenhouse. You’ll be surprised at which vegetable earned the highest ranking! What do these 15 vegetables and herbs all have in common? Watercress Chinese cabbage Chard Beet greens Spinach Chicory Leaf lettuce Parsley Romaine lettuce Collard greens Turnip greens Mustard greens Endive Chives Kale They’re the 15 highest-ranking plants on a list of 41 powerhouse fruits and vegetables (also known as PFVs), based on a study by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. While the word “powerhouse” might make you think it’s nothing more than just another trendy health term (kind of like “superfood”), it actually does have scientific merit. Powerhouse foods are a legitimate classification for the super nutrient-dense fruits and vegetables that greatly reduce the risk of chronic diseases (such as cancer, diabetes, and heart disease). The PFVs that made this list have a high level of essential nutrients relative to the amount of calories they provide. Growing powerhouse vegetables The top 15 plants on the PFV list are extremely cold-hardy, and you can push their limits in winter (in USDA hardiness zones 5 and above) by growing them under a simple low tunnel covered with midweight frost cloth. Gardeners in colder zones can grow them in spring or fall (for better flavor and production). Most of these vegetables also grow well indoors in front of a sunny window. Watercress, which tops the list with a nutrient density score of 100, is actually a perennial in zones 6 and above (possibly zone 5 with winter protection). It makes an excellent addition to your perennial vegetable garden (and no, watercress does not need to be grown in or near water—it just needs consistently moist soil).
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Are you looking to plant English bluebells in your garden? These European natives are some of the easiest bulbs to grow – a prime example of a ‘plant it and forget it’ flower.If you’re looking to recreate the calming, natural woodland feel in your own garden, you can’t go wrong planting bluebells. These stunning blue bulbs transform European forest floors into seas of blue throughout spring and will make just as much of an impact in pots or your flower beds. Botanically named Hyacinthoides non-scripta, this bulb is usually known as the English bluebell, common bluebell, or wild hyacinth. These woodland plants are not to be confused with Hyacinthoides hispanica or Spanish bluebells, a different species of Hyacinthoides. Their ease of growth and tolerance of shade makes them ideal plants for many gardeners, especially beginners. Choose one, mix them with other popular bulbs, or plant an entire field – the options are endless. Although known today as Hyacinthoides non-scripta, bluebells have had many different names in the past. These bulbs, native to western Europe, were dubbed Hyacinthus non-scriptus by the founder of binomial scientific naming, Carl Linnaeus. This genus is commonly known as hyacinths – an incredibly popular garden bulb. 50 years later, two German scientists changed the genus to Scilla, another bulb genus found across woodlands in Europe. Unfortunately, the scientific uncertainty didn’t stop there. Another 50 years later, a different German scientist transferred the plant to the Endymion genus. That’s why you may still find this plant under the names Endymion non-scriptus or Scilla non-scripta today. In 1934, French botanist Pierre Chouard changed the label to Hyacinthoides – literally meaning ‘like a hyacinth’ – where it remains today. Most wild bluebells are found across the United Kingdom and hold a rich history in this area. Several folklore stories have been passed down for generations, such as the belief that bluebell woodlands are inhabited by fairies. This also gave them the nickname fairy flowers. These folklore fairies are not known to play nice. According to legends, bluebells ring to call the fairies. If a human hears this bell, they will be visited by fairies and face an untimely death. Similarly, children with a desire to pick bluebells are warned that if they do, they will likely disappear, never to be seen again. Apart from these dark and twisted warnings, bluebells are beloved across the UK and in Europe – somewhat of an unofficial national flower. Walking through bluebell fields is a wonderful pastime. But, beware not to disturb the fairies, or face the consequences. While used as garden plants often, most bluebells are found in the wild. More than half of these wild bluebells can be found in woodlands around England. While their origin story is somewhat unclear, people believe these bluebell woodlands started springing up following the end of the last ice age. Due to their age – some are known to be hundreds of years old – these spaces are usually protected to prevent their decline. In some areas, these bulbs are considered endangered in their natural habitats. As a result, it is illegal to remove bluebell bulbs from the wild and plant them in your own garden or sell them off, according to the Wildlife and Countryside Act of the United Kingdom. While part of the same genus, English bluebells and Spanish bluebells are not the same plant. This distinction is important, as Spanish bluebells tend to be more invasive in some regions than their English counterparts. Both plants look quite similar but can be easily distinguished in spring by their flower type. English bluebell flowers are darker and curl over whereas Spanish bluebell flowers are lighter and remain upright. English bluebells are also slightly shorter than Spanish ones. It’s important to keep these two plants away from each other, or they will hybridize to form Hyacinthoides × massartiana. There are two ways to propagate bluebells: by sowing seeds or dividing bulbs. Propagating from seeds is the simplest method and provides the most natural look in the garden. Dividing is slightly more technical but produces quicker results.
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Are you thinking of adding some larkspur flowers to your home or garden this planting season? These incredibly stunning blue flowers can be the difference between a pretty garden, and a stunning garden.Spring is always a time for new growth, colorful beginnings, and joy. There are several spring blossoms that hold up these spring values, but none quite like the larkspur. This gorgeous cottage garden staple has striking but graceful spire-like flowers, which sit on long stems. When the larkspur blooms in early spring, your garden will be treated with a sea of blues, reds, violets, and even whites. It is on display best when its blooms peek out from the last snow of winter, but they bring the spring spirit in warmer climates too. This flowering annual is an easy-going plant, especially once established. They’re also drought-resistant and won’t get nibbled on by deer or rabbits. It’s also July’s birth flower, making its blooms a unique and memorable gift for someone’s birthday. However, there are some small caveats. All parts of this beautiful flower are poisonous. One brief touch of the leaves or their stunning flowers can cause extreme skin irritation. It’s also best to refrain from eating its flowers or any other parts of this plant. The larkspur poses a danger to cats and dogs, so plant it where your pets can’t get to them. The larkspur is also a fast grower and will happily spread across your garden if you’re not careful. With a few post-blooming maintenance tricks, however, they shouldn’t take over your garden. Other than that, the larkspur is a wonderful addition to any landscape, especially cottage gardens. You can also snip them (carefully) and add them to indoor cut flower bouquets. The Larkspur is native to the Mediterranean, North Africa, Europe, and Asia. Gardeners introduced it to England in the mid to late 1500s, then the larkspur found a home in the Americas. Once firmly rooted, the larkspur naturalized across the continent. Before it became a cottage garden staple, however, it was a useful plant. Despite the plant’s poisonous properties, it was used for medicinal purposes. In ancient Greece, larkspur seeds were crushed to treat and control body lice. The entire plant was also often crushed up to form a porridge-like mixture to make larkspur poultices. This gooey substance was often the main source of treatment for open wounds and hemorrhoids. Larkspur flowers were also entrenched in Native American culture. They used its blooms to create dyes and repel insects. It also held great symbolic value, often seen as having protective properties, which safeguarded warriors and repelled ghosts, thieves, and scorpions. This annual’s unique name was first mentioned in a gardening book in 1597. The author, John Gerard, likened its blooms to the claw of the lark bird. The resemblance is quite uncanny, so it’s no wonder this common name stuck. He also called it ‘knight’s-spur’, ‘lark’s heel’ and ‘lark’s claw.’ Gerard, like so many others today, also noticed the larkspur’s similarities to the delphinium, another spring flower. While these two belong to the Ranunculaceae family, they are considered different genera – sometimes. The larkspur, as published in Gerard’s book, was in the Consolida genus. But the common name larkspur is often attributed to Delphiniums. The USDA saves the Consolida genus for any plants with the common name ‘knight’s-spur’. Naming and classifying plants is a confusing business, but all you need to know is that ‘knight’s-spur’ and ‘larkspur’ can refer to the same flowering annual, sometimes within the Consolida genus and sometimes under the Delphinium genus. No matter how you classify this plant, the larkspur deserves a spot in your garden. Its ability to root itself across so many different areas with different climates makes it an extremely hardy plant. The Larkspur thrives in USDA zones 2-11, happily self-seeding every season. Its tall blooms add a brilliant splash of spring, no matter where they’re planted. As mentioned, they make great additions to cottage gardens, but they also look right at home in wildflower gardens. Their height makes them wonderful border plants too, and they’re well-suited to growth in containers. Larkspurs add splashes of color to empty spaces in no time. These rapid growers mature in just a few months, which can make propagating slightly challenging. The best way to propagate this spring beauty is from seed. While this may seem easy, propagating larkspurs from seed does require some preparation and plenty of patience. Larkspur seeds require a cold treatment, or stratification before they can germinate. This replicates the natural process that seeds go through during winter. Naturally, larkspur seeds drop in fall and overwinter in the cold, snowy ground where they happily enjoy a cold period. Once the temperatures begin to climb, then the seeds germinate. This process is very easy to replicate. Start by gathering the seeds from pods once they’ve begun to crack and dry. Fill a tray or small container with seed starting mix and water. Press the seeds into damp soil and cover. Next, pop your seeds into the refrigerator for a week or two. During this period, keep the soil damp by spritzing it with some water. Once their cold period is up, the larkspur seeds are ready to sow. Depending on where you live, you may need to sow your seeds indoors before transplanting them in your garden.
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